I think the impeller and housing got you going. The tell-tale looks good to me (not an expert but it looks as good as my Yamaha 6). The good news is that you know the outboard much better now and what spares you may want to carry! That is a nice outboard. As far as removing broken bolts, EZ-outs can help (there are several different styles and get good quality ones so they won't break), heat helps (use a propane or MAPP gas torch to heat the bolt and then turn, automotive guys use a mig welder to put bead on the top of the broken bolt they can grab with vice grips (the intense heat of the welding does much of the work breaking up the corrosion!). I am a big fan of left hand drill bits to remove broken bolts. Many times as you are drilling the center of the broken bolt to install an EZ-out the broken bolt it will spin-out while drilling in the left direction. If the holes were blind (tapped to the bottom of a drilled hole and not a thru hole), a "bottom tap" would be used after you start the threads with your regular tap. A bottom tap develops full threads almost to the bottom of the hole. I understand why you used lock-tite on the thermostat housing bolts. A good practice on any steel bolts going into aluminum is to use Never-Seize or Lanocoat on the threads (especially in a marine environment). FYI, I had a steel fill-plug in a transaxle case in a Suzuki. I could not get that plug out! I thought I would brake the aluminum case! It had a 1/2" square female socket. I bought a large bolt and machined the end of the bolt square. Fit it in the hole and mig welded it to the fill-plug. After that intense heat from welding, the plug came out easy! When I installed a new plug, I teflon taped it. Hopefully, I will not have the same problem again.
My tell tale is the same. One thing though, I took off the cover for the water jacket. That is the one next to the spark plug. It was corroded through to the cylinder. As in the compression was blowing out of the cylinder wall and spark plug threads and into the water cooling area. Needless to say this engine was stuffed. Found another outboard and ust swapped he power head over. Not really a problem that you have, but just a bit of FYI.
Not sure but I think the water should be warm or your thermostat would not be working seems to run fine I would run it and keep an eye on temp I think your good to go.
Great video! Good save of the broken bolts! Did it look like they had lock-tite? Also, what water pump rebuilt kit did you use? I’m working on a very similar model motor, and that would be helpful to know. Between it being a Yamaha motor but branded as Mariner, I’m having some difficulty locating the correct water pump kit. Thanks!!😊
Thanks for your questions. The bolts appeared to have something on their threads, but whether thread lock or just corrosion I'm not sure. I don't have details regarding the kit I purchased at hand, but I found nearly all the parts I needed at marineengine.com.
I suppose because: Reason #1 - $$$$ Reason #2 - The shop probably won't allow video-ing their work. Reason #3 - We wouldn't learn nearly as much as we did watching him work.
Fearless as always going down the rabbit hole! Those text overlays from the wiser you from the future are just hilarious 😂
Thanks for your video. I learned a lot by watching you go through the various possibilities.
I think the impeller and housing got you going. The tell-tale looks good to me (not an expert but it looks as good as my Yamaha 6). The good news is that you know the outboard much better now and what spares you may want to carry! That is a nice outboard. As far as removing broken bolts, EZ-outs can help (there are several different styles and get good quality ones so they won't break), heat helps (use a propane or MAPP gas torch to heat the bolt and then turn, automotive guys use a mig welder to put bead on the top of the broken bolt they can grab with vice grips (the intense heat of the welding does much of the work breaking up the corrosion!). I am a big fan of left hand drill bits to remove broken bolts. Many times as you are drilling the center of the broken bolt to install an EZ-out the broken bolt it will spin-out while drilling in the left direction. If the holes were blind (tapped to the bottom of a drilled hole and not a thru hole), a "bottom tap" would be used after you start the threads with your regular tap. A bottom tap develops full threads almost to the bottom of the hole. I understand why you used lock-tite on the thermostat housing bolts. A good practice on any steel bolts going into aluminum is to use Never-Seize or Lanocoat on the threads (especially in a marine environment). FYI, I had a steel fill-plug in a transaxle case in a Suzuki. I could not get that plug out! I thought I would brake the aluminum case! It had a 1/2" square female socket. I bought a large bolt and machined the end of the bolt square. Fit it in the hole and mig welded it to the fill-plug. After that intense heat from welding, the plug came out easy! When I installed a new plug, I teflon taped it. Hopefully, I will not have the same problem again.
My tell tale is the same. One thing though, I took off the cover for the water jacket. That is the one next to the spark plug. It was corroded through to the cylinder. As in the compression was blowing out of the cylinder wall and spark plug threads and into the water cooling area. Needless to say this engine was stuffed. Found another outboard and ust swapped he power head over. Not really a problem that you have, but just a bit of FYI.
Thank you for your comment. That type of information is helpful
Not sure but I think the water should be warm or your thermostat would not be working seems to run fine I would run it and keep an eye on temp I think your good to go.
Great video! Good save of the broken bolts! Did it look like they had lock-tite? Also, what water pump rebuilt kit did you use? I’m working on a very similar model motor, and that would be helpful to know. Between it being a Yamaha motor but branded as Mariner, I’m having some difficulty locating the correct water pump kit. Thanks!!😊
Thanks for your questions. The bolts appeared to have something on their threads, but whether thread lock or just corrosion I'm not sure. I don't have details regarding the kit I purchased at hand, but I found nearly all the parts I needed at marineengine.com.
How about going to an outboard dealer/workshop, asking them to fix it, and ask permission to look over their shoulder while they do it?
I suppose because: Reason #1 - $$$$
Reason #2 - The shop probably won't allow video-ing their work.
Reason #3 - We wouldn't learn nearly as much as we did watching him work.
How is going…or what s going on?
Sorry for my long absence. All is well and work continues. More videos picking up where I left off coming real soon.