There is a reason you'd see a lot of these on the road they are reliable af besides the stupid ecm probloms it's great always starts love it 253xxx and still going strong
Yeah, you're right!. "Everything that is great about this country, that Dodge is about." Even though there is something deep inside that keeps it from running right, its still a great metaphor.
Lots of strange things can go wrong with these old Magnum engines... here are a few. Bad O2 sensors. Just because the PCM says the O2 sensor is oscillating doesn't mean they are good. The PCM programming will oscillate O2 values internally and report the internal values via ODB2 even when the actual O2 sensor is stuck at a specific value. Changing the upstream O2 sensor with a known good OEM part can often fix stalling issues when nothing seems wrong at all. Plugged or resistive exhaust causes too much exhaust gas to be taken in on the intake stroke on engines that don't have external EGR valves. Valve timing on these engines allows for EGR action without an external EGR valve and too much back pressure will cause too much exhaust to be taken in. - Monitoring O2 values on these engines to diagnose the issue is useless as the PCM will oscillate the values of the O2 regardless of whether the O2 is working or not. Check by loosening bolts holding on exhaust manifold to allow for an exhaust leak and run the engine. If it runs smoother then clean or change the cat and muffler. Don't run the vehicle with the exhaust manifold loose for too long as it will cause a rich condition, burn through fuel (not enough exhaust flowing past O2 sensors) and the excess fuel at lower temperatures can destroy the cat if it is good. Note: the valve timing for EGR on these engines makes leakdown testing cylinders more difficult as the valves may begin to open earlier or close later than expected, don't let it fool you. Fuel pump ground wire connection corrodes or loosens at junction somewhere inside harness causing occasional drops in fuel pressure. - Check for drops in fuel pressure or erratic operation of fuel pump. Apply new ground wire to frame near fuel pump and test. Worn timing chain and sprockets causing cam and crank correlation to vary too wildly. - Check timing chain by turning crank slightly back and forth while watching the rotor in the distributor. If there is too much crank movement before the rotor moves then the chain may be too worn. Fuel injector begins to go bad causing intermittent short condition that resets computer and causes loss of IAC counter. IAC counter tells the PCM where the IAC is without the PCM needing to re-calibrate it to a known position. When the computer resets the engine may stall momentarily or stay off, at that moment the IAC counter was lost and the PCM needs to re-calibrate and the only way is by disconnecting and reconnecting the power to the PCM (key off, disconnect connector 1 of PCM and reconnect, turn key to on and wait 10 seconds, press accelerator slowly to floor with engine off, cycle key once more before starting). The engine will not idle properly when it loses the IAC position counter since the IAC may be open or closed more than the computer expects. - Clean IAC and check engine operation. Else, remove battery ground, check and change injectors. Cycle key to on multiple times before attempting to start engine and check for fuel leaks before starting engine...
Simple fix for the Dodge vehicles with *no bus* message...A chevy 350 w carburetor and transmission adapter...lol...my uncles Dakota is driving me nuts!!
I drove a Durango to pick up some mangos. Loaded'em up, then wrecked and got mangled. Then I had a mango stuck up my thang, yo, couldn't breath worth a jam, thought I was getting strangled.
check o2 sensors. if starts runs great..then dies might the cause and salvage yard look for wrecked car versus one that looks nice wrecked one you know was running
I used the numbers off the old one to find a used one on ebay and it worked perfectly. If the problem crops up again I will know that a new one would be a good investment so that is probably what I would do. I have been driving the one from ebay for nearly a year with no problems.
So I got a 98 dodge dakota and it runs great all summer soon as it gets cold it starts putting and dying. Then hard to start get it started then maybe runs good all day. Any ideas I already changed cam sensor cap and rotor.
Travis Gill I appreciate the video and wanted to know did replacing the computer keep her running on a warmed up engine???I’m having the same problems in my 97 Dakota v6 it’s shuts off even while accelerating like it loss power suddenly or in park same deal shuts right off when the engine is warm..
Drive it into a lake! That's how I fixed my Chrysler. ;) Sounds like your letting the looks of your truck make you keep it. Been there, done that. I ended up selling my Chrysler because of all their sensor crap. Never again. Planned obsolescence.
There is a reason you'd see a lot of these on the road they are reliable af besides the stupid ecm probloms it's great always starts love it 253xxx and still going strong
Yeah, you're right!. "Everything that is great about this country, that Dodge is about." Even though there is something deep inside that keeps it from running right, its still a great metaphor.
Lots of strange things can go wrong with these old Magnum engines... here are a few.
Bad O2 sensors. Just because the PCM says the O2 sensor is oscillating doesn't mean they are good. The PCM programming will oscillate O2 values internally and report the internal values via ODB2 even when the actual O2 sensor is stuck at a specific value. Changing the upstream O2 sensor with a known good OEM part can often fix stalling issues when nothing seems wrong at all.
Plugged or resistive exhaust causes too much exhaust gas to be taken in on the intake stroke on engines that don't have external EGR valves. Valve timing on these engines allows for EGR action without an external EGR valve and too much back pressure will cause too much exhaust to be taken in. - Monitoring O2 values on these engines to diagnose the issue is useless as the PCM will oscillate the values of the O2 regardless of whether the O2 is working or not. Check by loosening bolts holding on exhaust manifold to allow for an exhaust leak and run the engine. If it runs smoother then clean or change the cat and muffler. Don't run the vehicle with the exhaust manifold loose for too long as it will cause a rich condition, burn through fuel (not enough exhaust flowing past O2 sensors) and the excess fuel at lower temperatures can destroy the cat if it is good. Note: the valve timing for EGR on these engines makes leakdown testing cylinders more difficult as the valves may begin to open earlier or close later than expected, don't let it fool you.
Fuel pump ground wire connection corrodes or loosens at junction somewhere inside harness causing occasional drops in fuel pressure. - Check for drops in fuel pressure or erratic operation of fuel pump. Apply new ground wire to frame near fuel pump and test.
Worn timing chain and sprockets causing cam and crank correlation to vary too wildly. - Check timing chain by turning crank slightly back and forth while watching the rotor in the distributor. If there is too much crank movement before the rotor moves then the chain may be too worn.
Fuel injector begins to go bad causing intermittent short condition that resets computer and causes loss of IAC counter. IAC counter tells the PCM where the IAC is without the PCM needing to re-calibrate it to a known position. When the computer resets the engine may stall momentarily or stay off, at that moment the IAC counter was lost and the PCM needs to re-calibrate and the only way is by disconnecting and reconnecting the power to the PCM (key off, disconnect connector 1 of PCM and reconnect, turn key to on and wait 10 seconds, press accelerator slowly to floor with engine off, cycle key once more before starting). The engine will not idle properly when it loses the IAC position counter since the IAC may be open or closed more than the computer expects. - Clean IAC and check engine operation. Else, remove battery ground, check and change injectors. Cycle key to on multiple times before attempting to start engine and check for fuel leaks before starting engine...
Its usually not the computer but the three connections going in to it.
There is probably 15-20 of them in my town.
Check the A12 splice on the way to the fuse box.
Simple fix for the Dodge vehicles with *no bus* message...A chevy 350 w carburetor and transmission adapter...lol...my uncles Dakota is driving me nuts!!
I drove a Durango to pick up some mangos.
Loaded'em up, then wrecked and got mangled.
Then I had a mango stuck up my thang, yo,
couldn't breath worth a jam, thought I was getting strangled.
Huge fan of Travis Gill. Keep us informed.
Bobby Markussen Holy hell what's going on man
Love 1999 Durago LS. LEATHER,WOODGRAIN DASH
WHEELS, KEY FOB OPEN, CASSETTE and CD player
Given to me.. yahhhhh
American craftsmanship!! But it won't start !!😅😅😅😅
Did it work?
check o2 sensors. if starts runs great..then dies might the cause and salvage yard look for wrecked car versus one that looks nice wrecked one you know was running
o2 sensors will never stop a car from running...they help improve gas millage....trust me I have been doing this 20 plus years
Same problem here it was the ECM.
What did you do to remedy the issue? New ECM, or did a re-flash work?
I used the numbers off the old one to find a used one on ebay and it worked perfectly. If the problem crops up again I will know that a new one would be a good investment so that is probably what I would do. I have been driving the one from ebay for nearly a year with no problems.
BaconNBeer sir no need to program the pcm ?
My durango has the 5.7 hemi it is 2004 I rebuilt the motor and put it back in now it will crank but won't start
So did the coil fix it
Or the positioning sensor in the distributor
So I got a 98 dodge dakota and it runs great all summer soon as it gets cold it starts putting and dying. Then hard to start get it started then maybe runs good all day. Any ideas I already changed cam sensor cap and rotor.
I hate to say it but it's the computer...I found out the hard way
@@BigTravGill dang it!
Travis Gill I appreciate the video and wanted to know did replacing the computer keep her running on a warmed up engine???I’m having the same problems in my 97 Dakota v6 it’s shuts off even while accelerating like it loss power suddenly or in park same deal shuts right off when the engine is warm..
There's a reason you don't see many on the road.........they're in the salvage yard where they belong.
Yup I had to get rid of it
Toyota corolla engine shutting down after 15 mins driving will restart after cooling one hour
Oil light flickers just before shut down
Same here.
Drive it into a lake! That's how I fixed my Chrysler. ;) Sounds like your letting the looks of your truck make you keep it. Been there, done that. I ended up selling my Chrysler because of all their sensor crap. Never again. Planned obsolescence.
I had to sell that thing. My god it was always something lol
I wish my Durango had Egyptian leather, smh
I cant lie it gave me so many non stop problems I had to sell it
Its the computer
mine doing the same thing
My 94 dodge B250 van had keyless entry.