Totally agree with your test track suggestion. That whole "Illusions" album from Kalya Scintilla is fantastic. Very well engineered! May I also suggest the Danish group Bliss "Quiet Letters". Excellent soundstage as well.
Interesting track suggestion - See what you mean about the frequency range and holographic sound potential; it’s full of ear candy audio teasers. Very interesting 👍 Also really useful to hear about the ability to disable the main output stage power section by removing those jumpers (if required). Will definitely follow your advice and explore the potential of the TD1 as designed before considering tinkering, including tubes and using a balanced pair of boards etc. I thought I’d heard something in one of your other videos that made me wonder if cutting off the power to the output stage might be an option that way, so thanks for clarifying. Still haven’t put in my order with Ian Canada yet, but best get my finder out. By all accounts the boards I ordered should arrive in the post tomorrow 🤞
Glad to see you researching first and watching the how to videos Some of us have a tendency to build first then read the manual and that can get you in trouble
Oh, one last thing - keep forgetting to ask, but is there any combination of boards with Ian Canada that would enable us to put DSD through the TD1 DAC, or will it only handle PCM? I appreciate that may sound like a ridiculous question for DAC Chips that ceased production back in the 1990’s, but never ceases to amaze me me what Ian Canada can make possible and so I thought I’d ask in case you already knew. Thanks
I used a couple 13Awg silver plated ofc copper And 11 awg The TD1 accepts 13 awg easily the 11 are stiff and require removing some strands Lately I have been using red and black only I find it less prone to connection errors
Probably did you also check the Ufl connectors if they are soldered properly you may have a short it may not be burnt You can also take a couple closeups front and back with a good camera and widow light And send them to me maybe I can spot something But do check all 4 UFL,s preferably without the TDA1541A in place Also when you flip the test leads on the 5v and 15v do they fluctuate usually capacitors are charging and discharging
@@Gabster1 I don’t get it, because I measured all connections but when I desoldered the connector all was fine :) Please make a video about software and configuration of the fifo q7 or the fifo pi ma -> show jumpers and so on. I can’t get the fifo q7 to play in 16 bit 192khz…. It just stays in 32 bits
@@MrChauvy Glad you got it going The UFLs are tricky to solder correctly. There is noting to configure all stays as default except enable continuous clock in MonitorPi pro if you have one to avoid big Pops at start. The 16/ 32 bit thing is based on your stream not much you can do to change it but You can ask Ian it is a FIfo thing Enjoy the music :)
I would warn everyone building this, TO CHECK YOUR RESISTORS. They are small, and hard to read but after I built my TD1 I found that Mouser had mistakenly sent me 3 220 ohm resistors and 1 1.18kohms resistor. They are easy to double check with an OHM METER and might help you avoid catastrophe.
Thank you for mentioning this I guess they can make packaging mistakes that can be frustrating. So far I have been lucky. Checking your resistors is always a good practice I will also add to only unpack one set of resistors at a time to avoid mix-ups. Also a reminder that the 220 ohms are not used with a FIFOPi like the Q7 and do not need to install them in that case and to short the pads with Solder They are useful if you are using a I2s Signal directly from a CD player as some are too strong.
Totally agree with your test track suggestion. That whole "Illusions" album from Kalya Scintilla is fantastic. Very well engineered! May I also suggest the Danish group Bliss "Quiet Letters". Excellent soundstage as well.
Interesting track suggestion - See what you mean about the frequency range and holographic sound potential; it’s full of ear candy audio teasers. Very interesting 👍
Also really useful to hear about the ability to disable the main output stage power section by removing those jumpers (if required). Will definitely follow your advice and explore the potential of the TD1 as designed before considering tinkering, including tubes and using a balanced pair of boards etc. I thought I’d heard something in one of your other videos that made me wonder if cutting off the power to the output stage might be an option that way, so thanks for clarifying.
Still haven’t put in my order with Ian Canada yet, but best get my finder out. By all accounts the boards I ordered should arrive in the post tomorrow 🤞
Glad to see you researching first and watching the how to videos
Some of us have a tendency to build first then read the manual and that can get you in trouble
Oh, one last thing - keep forgetting to ask, but is there any combination of boards with Ian Canada that would enable us to put DSD through the TD1 DAC, or will it only handle PCM? I appreciate that may sound like a ridiculous question for DAC Chips that ceased production back in the 1990’s, but never ceases to amaze me me what Ian Canada can make possible and so I thought I’d ask in case you already knew. Thanks
Not without conversion by then the Essence of DSD is lost I think
hello what cable diameter AWG did you use for the power supply? red black green? thanks
I used a couple 13Awg silver plated ofc copper
And 11 awg The TD1 accepts 13 awg easily the 11 are stiff and require removing some strands
Lately I have been using red and black only I find it less prone to connection errors
Argh I burned Ian’s PCM converter 😢
I get about 400-600 ohms at the Gabster TD1 - do you think there is a mistake?
Probably did you also check the Ufl connectors if they are soldered properly you may have a short it may not be burnt
You can also take a couple closeups front and back with a good camera and widow light
And send them to me maybe I can spot something
But do check all 4 UFL,s preferably without the TDA1541A in place
Also when you flip the test leads on the 5v and 15v do they fluctuate usually capacitors are charging and discharging
@@Gabster1 I don’t get it, because I measured all connections but when I desoldered the connector all was fine :)
Please make a video about software and configuration of the fifo q7 or the fifo pi ma -> show jumpers and so on. I can’t get the fifo q7 to play in 16 bit 192khz…. It just stays in 32 bits
@@MrChauvy Glad you got it going The UFLs are tricky to solder correctly.
There is noting to configure all stays as default except enable continuous clock in MonitorPi pro if you have one to avoid big Pops at start.
The 16/ 32 bit thing is based on your stream not much you can do to change it but You can ask Ian it is a FIfo thing
Enjoy the music :)
@@MrChauvy It will always say 32 bit. Normal
I would warn everyone building this, TO CHECK YOUR RESISTORS. They are small, and hard to read but after I built my TD1 I found that Mouser had mistakenly sent me 3 220 ohm resistors and 1 1.18kohms resistor. They are easy to double check with an OHM METER and might help you avoid catastrophe.
Thank you for mentioning this I guess they can make packaging mistakes that can be frustrating.
So far I have been lucky. Checking your resistors is always a good practice I will also add to only unpack one set of resistors at a time to avoid mix-ups.
Also a reminder that the 220 ohms are not used with a FIFOPi like the Q7 and do not need to install them in that case and to short the pads with Solder
They are useful if you are using a I2s Signal directly from a CD player as some are too strong.
@@Gabster1 Sorry, I meant the 20ohm resistors not 220ohm.
GM☕️