Wow. I am impressed. I have never soldered anything, but I wish I could sit down one evening, with wind and rain outside, put on some good music, and patiently put this together. 😂
Great project , I love the TDA1541a and been using a diy Aya2 dac for the last 10 years . If I wasn't currently building an RTZ FIRDAC I'd be seriously tempted by the TD1 . I use OPA861 in the AYA2 , worth experimenting with the type of I/V resistors , I use all shunt regulation
Hi Gabby.... You've put a ton of time into this! I can tell, I've been there. I can't wait to get setup to put this together. I've got a 1540, 2 1541, and a 1543 based board that I will be building to compare
At 37:10 You need to lean Big Clive’s soldering technique where he holds soldering iron and solder in one hand. Just waiting for my boards to arrive, looks an interesting build. Need something to put my TDA1541S1 in.
A email was sent to all with The BOM and Mouser code to order parts easily if you did not find the email Check your spam folder as sometimes group emails can end up in the spam or junk folder. If not email me As far as actual Schematics they will remain Private as I mentioned in my Video to avoid being pirated on Ebay and other sites...... Make sure to watch the Videos for valuable info.
i am curious why a 16bit dac would outperform a 24bit dac from a 24bit source? it does impresses me how tubes soundbetter than ss, but that's a different technology.
The best thing I learned in my audio journey is to trust nothing and no one but your ears. I wish I have a good answer for you but it is what sounds better regardless of technology. ultimately it is more about Power supplies output stage and clean low jitter clocks rather then bits.
@Gabster1 yes. i think you are probable correct. Valves don't make sense next to a transistor amp but the sound is so much more pleasant (to i) . Valve dac are now a thing. amazing. 🙏
Go for it! But a lot of them are harder to solder specially delicate small connections also there is not a lot of silver in them just a tiny more If the soldering quality is going to suffer don’t use them if it is flowing nice use them.
Hi! I just received my parts from Mouser as per project "code" from email. For some reason there are two SMD resistor components delivered... parts 603-RT0805DRE073K6L and 279-CRGP1210F8K2 . I have watched all UA-cam content and the only SMD is 712-CONMHF1-SMD-G-T . Can you please advise? Kindly Jonathan
only if you can supply it raw I2s signal LRCX BCK Data L Data R (not Hdmi style) short answer is No The reason it sounds good is it uses the shortest path to analogue with the digital signal coming from the best reclocking jitter free signal and the best ever power supplies.
Hey Gabbi,all is put together on my board, except for the resistors- unfortunately you skipped the part where what resistor belong to. It would be great to get some more details to that :) by the way I love your project
Good you found it I hope all the rest is in the write place and polarity Also check the Imp Read on the Manual page on my site gabster.ca/Gabster-TD1-Manual-1/
Hi, Received the TD1 board and mouser parts. About to start the build but unsure what are the correct resistor values are? I am confused specifically with R2 and R9, R11 and R21,R13 and 23, R12 and 22. Also can you please provide instructions for adjusting zero offset? Thanks for your effort to help the diy community.
Make sure you Check your Email There should be a BOM Link at the Bottom of your email could be in the spam folder if not message me. More videos are coming including Dc Offset setting Make sure you have the BOM before Building also see the manual page on Gabster.ca
Hi Gabby - which TDA1541A chip do you recommend? Is the TDA1541 a contender, or does it have to be a TDA1541A? I see the S1 version for big money on ebay - are they much superior? Any guidance would be much appreciated ;-)
No need to get a S1 or S2 crown a regular TDA1541A will do the difference is not big to warrant the money if you love it down the road you can experiment with various TDA chips
Hi Gabster, I wonder if there is any room to even further improve the sound by using things like AN capacitors, foil resistors, etc? Or it won't really matter beyond what you have selected here.
The caps used are extremely low ESR that can fit close but you can try I would focus on specs rather than brand and how close you can get them to where they need to be.
@@Gabster1 do you think something like Amtrans AMCG series would work tho? But I can’t find anything regarding its ESR to compare-it seems like it can fit into the board like how you want them to.
@@Gabster1 not that much per cap, quantity discount about $80 each and vcap odam is litterally an eye awakening vs wima. Try it if u love ur build u won't be sorry!
It's too bad that this uses a chip that seems very a) hard to find and trust that it's original, and b) is very expensive, compared to many other DAC chips
Wow. I am impressed. I have never soldered anything, but I wish I could sit down one evening, with wind and rain outside, put on some good music, and patiently put this together. 😂
Start easy with a Protodac by Mark from the Moode site.
Great project , I love the TDA1541a and been using a diy Aya2 dac for the last 10 years . If I wasn't currently building an RTZ FIRDAC I'd be seriously tempted by the TD1 . I use OPA861 in the AYA2 , worth experimenting with the type of I/V resistors , I use all shunt regulation
Sounds great! would love to hear how you like the RTZ FIRDAC When you build it.
Hi Gabby.... You've put a ton of time into this! I can tell, I've been there. I can't wait to get setup to put this together. I've got a 1540, 2 1541, and a 1543 based board that I will be building to compare
great let me know how the Gabster TD1 Compares
At 37:10 You need to lean Big Clive’s soldering technique where he holds soldering iron and solder in one hand.
Just waiting for my boards to arrive, looks an interesting build. Need something to put my TDA1541S1 in.
Thubs Up!! I haven't watched yet ,But Im positive you put a lot of work in this video .
serious work, thanks for that gabi
Hi Gaby, got boards today, how do I get schematics?
A email was sent to all with The BOM and Mouser code to order parts easily if you did not find the email Check your spam folder as sometimes group emails can end up in the spam or junk folder. If not email me
As far as actual Schematics they will remain Private as I mentioned in my Video to avoid being pirated on Ebay and other sites......
Make sure to watch the Videos for valuable info.
i am curious why a 16bit dac would outperform a 24bit dac from a 24bit source? it does impresses me how tubes soundbetter than ss, but that's a different technology.
The best thing I learned in my audio journey is to trust nothing and no one but your ears.
I wish I have a good answer for you but it is what sounds better regardless of technology.
ultimately it is more about Power supplies output stage and clean low jitter clocks rather then bits.
@Gabster1 yes. i think you are probable correct. Valves don't make sense next to a transistor amp but the sound is so much more pleasant (to i) . Valve dac are now a thing. amazing. 🙏
I love your channel. I have some silver solder? What are your thoughts? Would it make a difference in the sound quality?
Go for it! But a lot of them are harder to solder specially delicate small connections also there is not a lot of silver in them just a tiny more
If the soldering quality is going to suffer don’t use them if it is flowing nice use them.
Hi! I just received my parts from Mouser as per project "code" from email. For some reason there are two SMD resistor components delivered... parts
603-RT0805DRE073K6L and 279-CRGP1210F8K2 . I have watched all UA-cam content and the only SMD is 712-CONMHF1-SMD-G-T . Can you please advise?
Kindly Jonathan
These are for adding optional led lights should be 3 smd resistors and 3 led lights will email you more details 😊
Can the TD1 ne used as a stand alone DAC. No streamee?
only if you can supply it raw I2s signal LRCX BCK Data L Data R (not Hdmi style) short answer is No
The reason it sounds good is it uses the shortest path to analogue with the digital signal coming from the best reclocking jitter free signal and the best ever power supplies.
Hey Gabbi,all is put together on my board, except for the resistors- unfortunately you skipped the part where what resistor belong to. It would be great to get some more details to that :) by the way I love your project
😂 I found all information in the excel sheet you provided
Good you found it I hope all the rest is in the write place and polarity
Also check the Imp Read on the Manual page on my site
gabster.ca/Gabster-TD1-Manual-1/
Hi,
Received the TD1 board and mouser parts. About to start the build but unsure what are the correct resistor values are?
I am confused specifically with R2 and R9, R11 and R21,R13 and 23, R12 and 22.
Also can you please provide instructions for adjusting zero offset?
Thanks for your effort to help the diy community.
Make sure you Check your Email There should be a BOM Link at the Bottom of your email could be in the spam folder if not message me.
More videos are coming including Dc Offset setting Make sure you have the BOM before Building also see the manual page on Gabster.ca
@@Gabster1 Thanks , found it in spam folder.
How would you compare the sound of the TD1 to the Protodac and the Denafrips Ares II with the SC-Pure clock kit?
The Td1 is more Holographic musical and better all around specially in sim mode with PCM converter.
Does it come with balanced xlr outputs instead of single ended rca outputs?
Yes but you need 2 boards and a PCM converter
Hi Gabby is it possible to use a TDA1387x8 board instead of the TDA1541 if supply is difficult?
No you can not you will loose all the benefits of the TDA1541a
Hi Gabby - which TDA1541A chip do you recommend? Is the TDA1541 a contender, or does it have to be a TDA1541A? I see the S1 version for big money on ebay - are they much superior? Any guidance would be much appreciated ;-)
No need to get a S1 or S2 crown a regular TDA1541A will do the difference is not big to warrant the money if you love it down the road you can experiment with various TDA chips
You mentioned to you is very good wire, what wire do you recommend?
I use these but anything decent is fine
ebay.us/LC38RJ
Keep them long when testing and verify short and twisted once you settle on a position
Hi Gabster, I wonder if there is any room to even further improve the sound by using things like AN capacitors, foil resistors, etc? Or it won't really matter beyond what you have selected here.
The caps used are extremely low ESR that can fit close but you can try I would focus on specs rather than brand and how close you can get them to where they need to be.
@@Gabster1 do you think something like Amtrans AMCG series would work tho? But I can’t find anything regarding its ESR to compare-it seems like it can fit into the board like how you want them to.
sending love and peace to everyone...
Thank you 🙏 we need more of both in this world
Change wima to all vcap odam $$$$ but WAY better
Yikes that is lets see 300$ X 14 I think you should try it as designed first :) I doubt they will make a big difference in this Tda circuit
@@Gabster1 not that much per cap, quantity discount about $80 each and vcap odam is litterally an eye awakening vs wima. Try it if u love ur build u won't be sorry!
It's too bad that this uses a chip that seems very a) hard to find and trust that it's original, and b) is very expensive, compared to many other DAC chips