Samsung Refrigerator Freezer Not Working or Won't Cool Enough - Ideas to Test and Fix!
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- Опубліковано 16 сер 2022
- If you have a Samsung refrigerator that has a freezer that is not cooling properly, lets go over a few major things that could cause the freezer from not operating properly. In this video, I show you how to take the Samsung refrigerator door off, and access all of the components behind the panel, so you can look at & diagnose what's wrong. We also look at a few parts behind the refrigerator too!
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Just about the best repair video I have seen. No extra b.s. Just step by step in a logical way. Thank you.
Ben you are a hustler with these videos! Thanks for your hard work and excellent quality videos. You are providing a valuable public service for us :)
Thanks so much Ben, I was able to get my freezer working again! Love the no nonsense videos, just straight to the point and comprehensive.
Great Job Ben, I'm a service tech and come to your vids to brush up on some models.
Keep up the good work!
Me 2, 28 years & these vids helped me, this job use to be much easier
Nicely done! Thank you for all you do for us DYIers! Another great, professional and concise troubleshooting/repair video. You saved me hours of grief trying to figure out the problem with our Samsung freezer (our model is RF23M8070SR, similar with Flex-Zone drawer).
Sorry, I'm so detailed and long-winded here, but it was a compound problem and I hope it helps someone else out there. We first noticed water beneath the refrigerator and then the Freezer and Flex-Zone drawer were not cooling adequately. Fridge was cooling to setpoint. Items were cold in freezer, but not truly frozen solid. We also found water pooling beneath crisper drawers. Checked the condenser coils for dust/debris and they were clean (cleaned 3 months ago). Checked for PCB LED error flashes, none. Reorganized items in Freezer to ensure proper air flow, but the freezer still could only achieve ~29 deg F at 0 deg F setpoint. Discovered the Fridge evaporator was not draining, drain line was plugged. So there were two problems - Freezer not cooling properly and Fridge drain line plugged. Seemed odd to have both problems at once. Did a forced defrost (FF) and observed water coming out of Freezer drain line during the defrost, but none exiting the Fridge drain line due to blockage. Ran a 14-gauge wire up all three drain lines from back of unit and only the Fridge drain line was blocked. Removed Fridge evaporator cover suspecting ice build-up, but there was very little ice/frost build-up. Everything else checked out fine (sensors, bi-metal thermostat, fan, etc.). Ran hot water (190 F) down evaporator drain line several times, but it didn't clear. Although, perhaps ill-advised, I then used compressed air, increasing the psi incrementally up to 60 psi so as to avoid any "blow out" of the line. The line cleared. It indeed was ice build-up in the line as evidenced by ice crystals coming out of Fridge evaporator drain line.
Okay...I thought given that the Freezer and Flex-Zone compartments were not cooling properly, and Fridge drain line that runs directly behind the Freezer evaporator was frozen, maybe the Freezer evaporator fan and/or coils have ice build-up. The Fridge drain line being frozen was "collateral damage". Did another forced defrost (FF) and this time observed water draining out of both Fridge and Freezer drain lines. Yay! Plugged in refrigerator and monitored temps in Fridge, Flex-Zone and Freezer compartments, but no improvement after defrosting. Fridge achieved set point at 36 F, Flex-Zone was 58 F (34 F setpoint) and Freezer was 29 F (0 F set point). Ugh! Removed Freezer evaporator cover and did not observe any ice-build up anywhere. Again, all components checked out fine (sensors, bi-metal thermostat, fan, etc). Puzzling! However, when reflecting on things, I recalled that when I removed the Freezer evaporator cover with built-in fan, the fan was running (refrigerator plugged in), but the fan wire connector easily pulled out of the terminal block before I could reach back and press on the connector tab to release it. That seemed a little odd. So, I reconnected the fan wire connector to the terminal block and it 'clicked' securely in place, albeit with some resistance. Fit was very snug without being fully secured. I tugged on the wire to see if it would release - NOPE! I repeated this several times and not once did the connector release with great tension. I then checked to see if the fan would operate when the connector was only part way into the terminal, and it did operate just fine. There was enough friction to hold the connector in the terminal without being snapped in place. Since we bought our refrigerator new and it had never been worked on, my conclusion is that the fan wire connector was not properly secured during Samsung assembly. After 5-1/2 years of operation, the fan connector loosened and lost contact. The fan stopped working which compromised the Freezer and Flex-Zone cooling ability, along with freezing up a portion of the Fridge drain line to where it was blocked. Freezer and Flex-Zone compartments have since cooled to set-point. Takeaway for me is to always double-check electrical connections.
Thanks for the detailed post. Our samsung freezer stopped freezing just recently. Curious, how do I confirm if the fan is working or not?
Best video ever for diy diagnostics. Thank you.
The best completed video I have seen. So far I have not found long term solution with RFG237AARS/XAA that is about 8 years old. About every 18 months, I have to clean all ices accumulated either Friger and/or Freezer, in addition to water leaking. Then everything is working fine. Lucky my wife keeps the old style Whirlpool refrigerator without stainless and all digital control panel to adjust temps, this old refrigerator (made in USA) is still working approx. 30 years old without cleaning and replacing any parts.
Hey Ben,
This is Scott The Fix It Guy.
Many of my viewers also watch your channel. I just watched a few of your videos and would like to say, you are an excellent teacher.
Just subscribed. Keep up the great work👍
Thanks!
Really helped. Thank you for making this video!!
The part about making sure the drawer gears are in sync was what solved my problem.
Thanks for a very through explanation including the 10 mm size of the bolts.
Thank you for detailed troubleshooting information.
Hi, great informative video. Thanks for sharing. Keep it up good work. God bless you.
Thank you for the help, turned out to be a dirty coil. I bought it used and they said it worked great BUT they didn't tell me the freezer was stuck at 57 degrees, was concerned I bought a lemon but thanks to your video it works now as intended. They sold a perfectly good refrigerator, and now how to buy another new one.
This is a excellent video Thanks for sharing. Keep it up good work.
This is a excellent video, explained for almost anyone to understand. Thank you very much
Great video, thank you for all the troubleshooting ideas
Thanks Ben! This gives me some great direction to look into. My freezer just quit, well kind of. Refrigerator still works fine but the freezer only gets down to fridge temps. Pretty frustrating on a 2yr old $1800.00 unit. Thanks again for the great info. I'm fairly confident I'll figure it out after watching this.
Mine too, did you ever figure out the problem?
@@travisconover4762 Followed all his steps to check mine and it ended up being too much food in there leaving very little room for cold air to circulate. Moved some of it to the chest freezer in the garage and all the food in the drawer freezer froze solid again.
@jeffscott3160 thanks for your reply!
This is awesome! Providing the thermistor and status LED values is a huge help!! Thanks! 😊👍
Glad it was helpful!
excellent video, super clear and to the point
Great tutorial so thank you in advance!
Dude Ben! thank you so much! The is awesome information. Thanks again!
Excellent video. Thank you !
Very informative, keep up the good work Ben thank you.
Exactly what i was looking for, thank you
Awesome video, just subscribed and love your videos 🔥🔥
Great video... my GE Adora is really a Samsung and our lower coils were covered in yuck!! Cleaned out the coils with vacuum and brush and the unit is back to freezing and cooling like new!! Thanks so much, was not really looking forward to a replacement!!
Great video. Thanks Ben! Hopefully I have fixed my water under the pullout drawer for the last time now!
New subscriber here. Love the information you share. Was wondering if you have information on buying a deep freezer and which brand is best, new or used.
This type condenser(radiator type) can has problem of leaking and easily damaged by scratch. Better not to use brush and better to use spray water and dry it out. You did a good explanation for this fridge. Thanks.
Respectfully, I've never heard a tech in my life ever, ever, suggest spraying water underneath to clean the coils. I really, truly, don't think thats good advice for this refrigerator. If penetrating the coils was a concern, spraying water and splashing it on nearby electrical wires would be just as much of a vunerability, and it'd be better to just use a much softer brush, or a more powerful vaccum, or use air duster / compressed air.
@@bensappliancesandjunk I just used a brush with a shop vac. Still lots of dust in the coils. Grabbed my air compressor and, boy did that do the job on all sorts of crud I could AND couldn't see or budge with the brush. Highly recommended!
Thank you for helping me!
great instructions, thank you! I cleaned out the backside coils and the fan too it was covered in dusty bunnies
Excelent!!!! Tks👊🏻
Thanks Ben!!!
Thank you Ben.
Great diag video, New sub here. Didn't think I would be looking up Samsung refrigerator concerns two days after installation of our new Samsung Bespoke refrigerator. 🤔 48 hours later. Refrigerator is not very cold, set to 37 degrees. Looking into issues. Set power cool on and it's getting better. Something is not right 🤔 lol. Time will tell . Great channel. Thank you 😊
Usually most new installs take 48hrs to get to the proper temp, if not a little more. Make sure you have good airflow behind refrigerator so the fan can exchange the heat at compressor for cooler air.
@@bensappliancesandjunk one day later, looks like the refrigerator section temperature sensor is out of range by 10 degrees. Set point is set to 34 degrees (max) and contents are 42 degrees plus or minus. Flex drawer is ok at 37 degrees and freezer section is ok at zero degrees. Is there any calibration adjustment to offset for this? Is the sensor contained in the control adjustment panel? This is a 4 door Samsung Bespoke 2022 with Flex drawer. Thank you for all your help.
@@htnowpro it’s under warranty, contact your retailer or the manufacturer for a service call and possibly replacement refrigerator
A+ on your video thank you.
The temp sensor that controls temperature is visible on the ceiling of the freezer, not on the coil as you stated. That sensor is for defrost.
Thanks for yr help dude
Thanks!
Can't thank you enough! My samsung fridge has been icing up, finally go that fixed but then the freeze wouldn't get cold enough. This video gave me everything I needed to take the freezer apart and find it too was iced up, which caused the fan to stop. Fan is now free and I'm optimistic it will run again. Thanks! I do wonder if the fridge fan gets frozen and stops, causing a huge ice build up on top, can that impact the freezer to ice over, too?
Same situation
Unfroze the fridge a few times a couple months apart.
Waited too long and now my freezer is 50 degrees fan drozen
@@atomic43 there's another video on here that suggested adding weatherstripping to the fridge back. I had taken it apart 3 times in 2 months and thawed the ice, but after adding the weatherstripping 6 months ago I haven't had another issue.
Thank you
Ben awesome video. I have done the heater upgrade and installed the drain clip. I am still having a problem where the door temperature says 34 degrees but the actual temp is around 46 degrees. Can you help?
Next step don't buy a Samsung or LG
Very true!
Lol
Don't buy those or a Traditional maytag/admiral, frigidaire/electrolux/ge/haier, bosch, fischer paykel or any unit that is based on the oem above (Kenmore).
For Appliances
Stick to Whirlpool or Whirlpool based(excluding the rotor stator "direct drive cabrio/bravos/oasis) for washers and dryers
The belt drive units are more durable and easieer to repair.
Otherwise stick to the old timer switch units)
What’s left? What should you buy then?
@@fuckthisksksjjksdfjd here’s my advice (coming from a home appliance repairer, 37 years experience)
Firstly don’t buy a kitchen or laundry product from a manufacture of TVs or electronics ect,
Don’t buy too cheap
Definitely don’t buy too expensive, the real expensive brands have nothing to offer the mid range priced brands don’t
Look for a good warranty
Keep in mind, whatever you buy won’t last forever
When I found this video, I thought I had found salvation. My Samsung fridge is just under 7 years old and the freezer quit working. I followed the guide here, and honestly struggled a lot. My drawer did not fully extend outward, even though it's never been touched since the factory. All my wiring was on the opposite side of what you found on this model. However, all the connectors were the same, so I thought to myself; "Cool! I can still perform all the tests, and figure this pig out."
So I did the tests, found 0 Ohms on the wires you said to check for the defrost heater circuit. So I went to the Samsung website, entered in the exact model of my fridge, and ordered the replacement part, as well as a new temp sensor since I was unsure if mine was in spec.
I waited 4 business days and the parts arrived today. Hooray! So I went to work trying to fix this stupid device that has no reason to be defective this early in it's lifespan.
SAMSUNG SENT ME THE WRONG PARTS! You have got to be kidding me! I'm so pissed off right now. I will never purchase another Samsung product willingly.
Did you fix it?
I love that extension on you drill. What is it.? Looks nice and girthy. I have so many extension that snap off.
its just a Masterforce bit holder with an impact-rated philips head screwdriver. I am gonna goto power drills on all videos because after dealing with the POS bolts on this Samsung, I want to save myself some time from now on lol
Hello and thank you for the info. I have a 2012 Samsung French door refrigerator model Rf263beaesr/aa that is not freezing. The evaporator fan is not getting power, could the problem be in the main control board? I checked everything else you suggested
Might want to suggest a crevis tool and a brush on cleaning condenser coils.
Hi Ben. I followed your video and changed all sensor you showed. Still my freezer is not freezing. I cleaned all grill dust and I don't have Ice build up problem. What else can cause my freezer not getting cold. FAn is working great. it remains at 32F.
Great videos, thank you. In my Samsung fridge/freezer the freezer temp only gets down to 14 degrees F, it can't go any lower (-2 F is recommended on the unit's front panel). There is no ice buildup on the freezer's coils. Is the problem likely to be a bad 'thermostat' in the freezer? (not the defrost sensor) If so, is the thermostat (or it may have some other name) located near the freezer's evaporator coils? Thanks in advance!
Hi Ben
Can you please do a Electrolux washer video? How is Electrolux washer? Do you recommend? How is the product longevity? Please do a video on Electrolux. Thanks
My samsung RFG297HDRS freezer fan was not working (21 error code). Following your directions I was able to get to the 2 freezer fans and found them encased in ice😢 After getting rid of the ice, my freezer is working fine🙂 Thanks for your excellent videos on how to get to the problem areas of my Samsung refrigerator.
Hi Ben I followed all of your instructions thoroughly and the bottom of mine was dirty as well, I cleaned it out and checked the light and it's solid red but it's still not cooling. Are there any other issues that could be causing this?
Hello thank you for the clear video
My fridge was frozen over. I cleared that and the tube going down
But while the fridge is working fine now and keeping temperature the freezer and middle drawer (for drinks and such) are 68 degrees F so definitely not working
I cleaned the condenser, and there is zero ice in the freezer area. The fan also turns on when it thinks is closed
Any ideas would be helpful thank you!
Great video. I followed the steps and my temp sensors (I had one by the coil and one on the ceiling if the fridge compartment) both read pretty accurate. I checked the voltage going to them and it was 4.8V and the voltage to my fan was 9.6V not 12V. My freezer thinks it is at 0F when it's actually 15-18F. Could low voltage be the issue?
Mine is doing the same thing and no ice....what did todo to fix ? Ed 1:58
@@edbauscher9949 ended up getting a new fridge. I replaced some of the electronic boards and that didn't fix it either.
Thanks Travis, I’ll let you know about where this going later. Ed
I watched the video twice, and watched the ads all the way through to up the monetary revenue!!👍🏽😉
Thanks man!
Good
Hi Ben, can you go a little deeper on the freezer section? Ie: On my rfg 297 there are two fans on the freezer evap panel. The squirrel cage fan on the left blows air all the eay up to the ice maker on mine (yeah, i know, really stupid design) that 12v motor runs at 2950 rpm. The right freezer evap fan is a conventional 3 blade. It runs at 2520 rpm. I guess they thought the increased rpm would do the trick???😮 It is my understanding that the freezer had to be at least 0 deg F for the ice maker to operate. I think it must be very important to replace these 12v motors with the proper speed replacements. I think they seriously underpowered these fans, pushing very cold air upward is difficult, and the fans on these are whimpy as hell. I replaced both motors, the temp sensor, the defrost sensor, and the crappy weatherstripping around the squirrel cage air chute. Freezer is down to 8 deg F, but still no ice. I guess they are right on the 0 deg f for ice production. I see that the newer models have the ice fan right behind the ice maker tray. Good thing the same engineers didn't design the AM6. LOLOL
Ur the best …
Hi Ben, thanks for the great videos! I fixed my fridge and added the additional heater as you showed. Also replaced the board and only then the heater came on with forced defrost. It's working fine but now I'm getting error code F1g - F-DEF.-Heater Error. And there is a new continuous motor-like noise that stops when I open the freezer. Any ideas? Can it be ice around the fan just like up there in the fridge section?
You can also clean the condenser coil with non flammable break cleaner at least once a year, make sure to unplug the unit before doing this cleaning also put a piece of cardboard under the fridge so you won't wet the floor.
I think that foaming evaporator coil cleaner might be a better choice here.
Hey Ben, my Kenmore Elite model 795.71054.013 bottom freezer is not cold enough. Fans work, condenser is clean and compressor runs. Last time I checked with a thermometer and temperature would fluctuate from the twenties to -6. I opened the cover and evaporator had a little of ice formation on the top right. Any advice? Thanks
Hi. What should I look for next. I removed the evaporator fan and that inside coil is not cold all the way. It's barely cold on the top part. Fridge part works great
Thank you for this detailed video Ben, I have the same unit and followed your instructions to the letter. Nothing seemed amiss or was out of spec range and still the freezer will only chill to the upper cabinet temp of 36 even though the control display shows it attained -2 where I set it. What would you suggest I do next ?
Also the compressor runs constantly….
Is the evaporator frosting all the way. Could be a gas leak or blockage
I have the same trouble with my Samsung. No frost build up..what was wrong with yours. My refrigerator works fine my freezer causes ice Creme to melt etc
Same here with my Samsung. Worst pos.
Herman - you ever resolve your issue ? I have exact same issue and can’t resolve.
One more question how long should it actually take for the bottom freezer part to reach its set temperature on a normal functioning freezer
What brand do you recommend I have samsung right now and this thing is driving me crazy
Thanks
Ok, ive got my samsung fixed, and heres what i found out that nobody could, or would tell me. My Samsung rfg297 AABP worked flawlessly for 13 years. Build date is 2010. Yes, i occasionally cleaned the condenser coils. This is necessary on ALL refrigerators, freezers and HVAC units. Anybody should know this. If they don't they deserve what they get. Then i checked temp sensors. All ok. Then i checked fans. All ran with 12v dc, But, the condenser fan woukd pulse on two or three times, then stop. I changed the fan. Now listen: the fan must be the exact same type that came with the fridge, mine was a type 11. I also bent the pins on the connector a bit. Then I installed a piercing valve and added a bit of 134a refrigerant, till i got 7 lbs on the low side. It initially read minus 3. I think that was it. It was low on charge. Nobody, on no utube video said that these 134a systems need to be topped up from time to time. I had to figure it out the hard way. My freezer is at 4 deg f, i am still not getting ice from the ice maker, bought a new one, still no ice. Bought ice trays, i now have ice, but ice maker still not working. Im going to change the ice room fan again, its the squirrel cage one on the left. this one is marked 13A. (Not amps, just the number on the fan) I think all these 12vdc fans are specific in that they communicate to the mainboard through the white sense wire. These things are WAYYYYY too damned complicated. Making a refrigerator so complicated that they fail and end up in the landfill in just a few years is criminal beyond beleif, just like the damned ink jet printers where a new cartridge costs more than a whole new printer. CRIMINAL!
I won't be doing all this especially with a new fridge.
Hi Ben, should there be any water at the bottom of the coil that you're cleaning please? If not, I have some and how can I fix that?
Ben, nice video. The problem with mine is that it seems like it is stuck in defrost mode. The fan is working fine, but no frost on the coil and close to room temp. Any idea how to test too see if the defrost timer might be stuck?
There is no defrost timer on a Samsung refrigerator. Its on the board. You could unplug it, let the caps drain for 1-2 minutes then plug it back in to see if it resets anything.
@@bensappliancesandjunk Thank you so much for the response (glad to see you accept tips!). One last question if you don't mind. If the coil inside the freezer is not cooling at all, does it pay to check the other components in the video (Thermostat/Thermalfuse/Dirt on Condensor coil)? The fact that the freezer went from cooling fine to not cooling at all leads me to believe this might be a PCB issue.
@@craigster750 My motto is always to check the cheap things first. Rule out all of those items you mentioned, and if none of them solve the issue, then the inverter/PCB is likely the issue. To confirm this, you'd want to find where you should be getting outgoing voltage from the board to the compressor, and see if there's any voltage. or, check for voltage at the compressor itself. If you don't see the right voltage going to it (its an inverter, so that may vary by model, check the compressor as it should have the data) then its absolutely the PCB.
Thank you for the great video. Wondering if you have any other ideas. My Samsung's freezer is too warm, but is making ice at the ice maker. I removed the back cover and cleaned the compressor fins, also removed the interior plastic panel to inspect the coils, and the coils have zero ice. Still, the freezer is too warm. Maybe the circulation fan is out?
I’m having the same issue. The middle drawer is warm too, but the main fridge as at correct temp.
I also changed out the temp sensor and it was going in the right direction, but the temp started to rise again about 12 hours in.
@@hollytroyer2804 We ended up having a very small freon leak.
I'm getting 140 ohms on the brown wires, yellow wires are ok as per your chart. Samsung rf29. Gotta swap them both? Thanx.
Still having trouble with mine. Freezer wasn’t froze up, and was also empty. I cleaned coils and the fan is working. The fridge works great, but the freezer and middle drawer are not working at all.
There are no samsung workers in my area so i hope this will work
Great Video! Thanks a ton. Question, there was ice build up exactly as shown in the video (3:30 min). Both of the fans work. Switched of the refrigerator to defrost. Now, should I inspect the sensor and heating element to see if it works? or just clearing the ice should be enough?
Yes. You want to test the defrost, preferably through forced defrost, to confirm the defroster system (sensor+heater) work. If you clear the ice off just by allowing it to warm up, it'll solve the problem but come back in 3-4 weeks. You want to make sure that system can work and will clear the ice off by itself. If it can't, the bad part needs replaced because its supposed to defrost every 24-48hrs without you knowing.
That error code chart with the red light is handy.
Not easy to find a good chart online, IMO
Hey I have model RF267AERS I think the defrost timer is solid state is the smaller inverter pcb or the larger pcb reaponsible for thw defrost timer function?
Great video!! I have this same unit. The fridge portion is working perfectly fine but the freezer isn’t even trying to get cold. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
I just came home from a two week vacation and found the same situation as you! Is your freezer temp blinking as 0 degrees like mine is?
@@piphotoany fix? Same issue
I just investigated the components in the lower exterior rear portion of the fridge and mine was caked in a solid layer of dirt, cleaned with my vacuum hose attachment and waiting to see if the problem has been resolved.
@@douglasballard8375 we’re you able to fix the issue?
@@karidodson3461 no the issue worsened, freezer eventually went out as well. Took like 6 weeks to get Samsung to reimburse us, got an LG as a replacement and it has worked exceptionally. I will not be purchasing from Samsung anytime in the foreseeable future.
Having this exact issue. Same model
Hope the ideas help!
Is the samsung rf22a4121sr or Vissani MDBF18SS junk? Looking for 30 inch wide bottom freezer fridge
Hi,
I tested everything with multimeter but unfortunately my refrigerator is working good for a few hours and then tripping the GFCI outlet , do you know what I should check??
I watched your other video for error codes but there is no error codes.
I checked other circuits too.
Are those plugs safe to unplug while the fridge is on? Not familiar with the type they are and wanted to check, thanks!
Hi Ben,
I have Samsung RF67QESL,
Deep freezer does not work
Internal fan not running.
What should I do
I have a similar fridge. Freezer stopped working. I'm pretty mechanical. Dumb question though. Can I work on the bottom while the normal fridge works on top?
I had no ice build up in my freezer. I replaced the temp sensor and defrost sensor with no luck in getting the freezer to temp. Both EVAP and comp fans are working, compressor coil is clean. The board has a solid red light which means no error. Fridge temp is ok. Any ideas why my freezer is not cold at all?
I have the exact same problem fridge is fine, freezer is cold but not like it should be at 0 deg f. Ice maker not making ice. I installed new ice maker. My old GE in the basement saved my food. It's as cold as a well diggers ass in Jan. I should have remembered that not once did I see a fridge during my stay in Thailand during the war, except at the chow hall. We in the US have been making refrigerators since Christ was a corporal. Moral: Buy American. Better yet, buy OLD AMERICAN and refurb it.
This is amazing compared to the tech line support you get from Samsung. I can’t understand a darn thing they say half the time.
hot point is the way to go
What refrigerator should we buy? How do we know what to buy before we buy it?
Great video! I'm currently adding a secondary heater to my Samsung fridge upper because of icing. Everything is defrosted, no cooling problem in freezer.
Do you think it's worth pulling off freezer cover to inspect? Or just leave it & open up if I run into problem?
Ben, my Samsung French door fridge/freezer stopped working. The refrigerator hold 34° the freezer is 70°. I just started getting error code 21 E and 40 E. The seal is fine as far as I can tell. I had a technician come out and he replace the logic board and some sensor. He didn’t touch the ice maker sensor as far as I know or the fan. Since he left, nothing has changed except the ice in the door that was operating normally has stopped working. Everything I have read says the lower ice sensor and/or the freezer fan are at fault. Any suggestions?
My son has this refrigerator. And is following this video. We've already verified that the compressor is running and that the condenser fan is working. Now he's working up to about 4:21 of this video. I'll keep editing this comment as he goes.
Have you ever seen one where both the refrigerator and freezer temp sensors seem to lose signal, or stray? Display will show -8 and 34, the lowest possible setting for the freezer and refrigerator. I unplug the refrigerator to reset, and when I plug back in, the display show the actual freezer/refrigerator temps, (28° and 43°) and begin cooling. Between 4-8hrs later the display will show -8° and 34° while the inside of both is significantly warmer.
Compressor and fans working properly, no ice build up, drains are clear.
Replaced temperature sensors
No errors
Replaced main board
And ideas would be greatly appreciated, feels like I've exercised ever option at this point
Thanks!
Yes, that can happen when you have moisture infiltration in the harness, sometimes. Check the physical connection space where the harnesses unplug for oxidation.
@@bensappliancesandjunk I will take another look at the internal plugs, apply some dielectric grease and see what happens. It just seems odd that both the Refrigerator AND Freezer display temps would be losing signal, and seemingly failing to lowest setpoint as the display temp.
Do you know which connection would cause this? The defrost temp sensors or the "ceiling" temp sensors?
I really appreciate all your help, and your videos in general. You're doing the Lord's work!
Did you ever get this solved. Having same issue
@@HoustonT17 did you get problem solved I'm having the same issue
@@wdwillis16 look at my above comment. Watch the video in the link I provided. It's been almost 3 weeks. Still holding temp! *knock on wood*
Great tutorial Ben.
My Samsung is only 5 years end the ice maker stopped working even though at first I kept defrosting it. But, during the summer it stopped completely. And now, the freezer quits on me. I hate Samsung products now including their tv. Regardless, I follow your tutorial now and get 0 ohm when I brown wire.mine only has one brown wire. Also, I find a piece of duct tape at the bottom between coils and the aluminum plate that supposedly holds water. Interesting??? I believe I need to replace the sensor which gives me a 03.83.volt and the defrost circuit that reads 0 ohm. Do you have a tutorial on to replace these two please? My model is: RF263BEAESG/AA and serial #: OAJC4BBK600222L
Thanks again for that great video.
Manny.
Samsung has a class action lawsuit for the Ice maker! If you call them and tell them it was the ice maker they will come and replace the whole thing for free just got mine done works amazing
Hey Ben 2 problems...I have a set up like the frig in your video..#1) the bottom ice maker works until it runs about 2 days then no ice until I unplug the unit and let it thaw out..after I plug it back in it makes ice foe about 2 days then quits..someone told me the heaters weren't workinh..woukd this be a repairman job or a dying job..#2) I recently got this frig back and the light switch in the frig was staying on all the time...the switch was broke off at the holder facing...I screwed around with it by putting a metal screw in where the plastic push button was to try to turn the lights off when I shut the doir...ya..my bad..the light went out but the freezer light still work..do is there a fuse in that back panel that controls the light in the frig? I final got a new light switch for the frig..but don't want to screw up something else or even the switch trying to put it back together...it took me 3 months to get this switch seeing the frig is around 10 years old...thanks for anything you can help with..I believe I'll call the service gues about the heaters for the bottom ice maket....Bruce
I measured the evaporator thermostat and got a reading of 0.2 ohms at room temperature. Is this correct.
TIA
Do you ever service or repair “Sub Zero” refrigerator? Bought a house with one installed, have no idea how to repair or service. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank You. 😁
No, I havent had the chance. I live in a poor area.
Most sub zeros, everything is in a machine cabinet on top. I’ve serviced a couple but never done a sealed system job on one. So if it’s a frost pattern issue I won’t be any help. But otherwise what are you trying to get at.
@@c.a.nationwide I don’t have a problem at the moment, just don’t know if there is a water filter for the ice and water in the front door. And have no idea where it is located, Do You?
@@gerigoetzinger8539 If you can send me model and serial I can help you. If it’s a built-in cabinetry unit it’s probably on the top section there’s usually like a rectangle grate cover and it just flips up
Hi Ben, what should I do if my fan is not running from my diagnose? Thanks.
Check vdc and ohms on fan
Friends bottom freezer has frost building up. It's a frost-free freezer, and it's a fairly new fridge. She has already had a new seal installed but it's still happening. Any suggestions in solving this issue she has?
Is the frost behind the panel and covering the coils in ice?
What if your evaporator coil in the freezer part is not getting cold at all but the top evaporator in the refrigerator gets cold & the compressor is running how do i get the bottom evaporator to get cold ?
I have a Maytag MFD2562VEMO (French door bottom mount). This refrigerator is not cooling properly. The temp in the freezer is reading 28 degrees and the Refrigerator is reading 39 degrees. I have checked the capacitor and compressor, both of course are kicking on. I had the thing unplugged and cleaned out…so it was warm and it started to cool down when I plugged it in, but will not go any further in temp on the freezer especially on the fast cool setting. There is a slight sluggish noise (no high pitch noise…just a sluggish noise, like weak groan noise) coming from the freezer section and refrigerator is constantly running. No major ice build up on back of the wall. Any suggestions?
I'd check ice on coils inside the back of freezer. Either it's built up and you can't see, or there's no frost at all indicating low refrigerant.
With the defrost heater I get continuity but I'm getting 0.0 or 0.3 is that ok