WATER SOFTENER RESIN or Media REPLACEMENT
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- This video is for any DIYer or plumber who’s looking to replace their water softener resin or media at home or on the job. The same procedure applies if you’re replacing the media or resin in any form of back washable filter whether it’s an iron filter, tannin filter, back washable carbon or even a multimedia filter. Today we’re going to replace the media in my water softener at home. I should mention that there is nothing wrong with my water softener, I’m just doing this today to show you how.
Before you begin you need know a couple of things:
1) Whatever water filtration equipment you’re replacing the media in you need to know what kind of media goes inside and how much. This is not the time to be replacing the media with a different media hoping for a different result. There may also be gravel at the bottom of that media tank, if that’s the case you will need to replace that too. Check it out before you start!
2) Every back washable type filter has free board which is why you need to know how much should be in there so as not to over fill it.
3) If you don’t have a suitable area to work inside, you’ll be removing the tank and doing the work outside so plan to have some one available to help carry the tank..
4) There will be spilled water and media so plan for a mess.
5) You’ll need a funnel and some painters tape.
6) If you’re replacing the media in an iron filter or if your water softener is being used as an iron filter you’ll likely need to replace the top basket and riser tube, make sure you have the replacement ready.
7) I suggest you have some iron out or something similar on hand to clean out any iron deposits inside the tank.
Now we are finally ready to start:
1) Start a manual regeneration to release the pressure inside the valve and put it into bypass. Shut off your water supply.
2) Disconnect the bypass, brine line and drain line from the water softener being careful to catch the spilled water if your drain line goes up. Advance the valve back into service position.
3) Drain the tank either by tipping it over, siphoning or by blowing out the water with a compressor.
4) If you have no where to work inside, take everything outside and find a spot where you can flush the media out without damaging too much.
5) Unscrew the valve from the top and remove it. Pull out the riser tube and either clean or plan to replace it.
6) You can try to pour the media out into a bag or onto a screen and put the media into buckets to get rid of it. Flush the remainder of the media out with a garden hose.
7) Put the riser tube into the tank and tape off the end so you don’t get any media inside it.
8) Once you know what goes back inside the tank, you can add the gravel, if it’s used and then the media itself.
9) Make sure the threads are clean, if necessary, you can wash them off. Remove the painters tape.
10) Put the valve back on being sure to put plumbers silicone grease on the o ring from the valve and on the end of the distributor.
11) Carry the tank back into the installation area. Connect to bypass, brine line and drain line. Plug in the water softener.
12) Put the water softener into back wash and open up the inlet of the bypass about ½ way and fill up the tank. You will hear the air and then the water running to the drain. After about 4 or 5 minutes you can open the valve all the way and check for leaks.
13) Run the water softener through a full regeneration.
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Check out this UA-cam video to learn more about changing the media in your water softener, iron filter, back washable or just about any automatic water filter.
Gary the Water Guy thank you !!! My local Supplier would not tell me what was inside the tank just wanted to sell me a new tank that’s already got the resin or media in it which I did purchase but very pricey rather do it myself thank you for the information you’re awesome
@@donniemoore6199 glad to hear you like it. Please share with friends and family.
I appreciate the video, very very useful in the future for me
@@donniemoore6199 I stumbled across the media on eBay while looking for a microswitch. There do seem to be a couple varieties with different sales pitches and specs. Some have "8% crosslink", some have "10% crosslink" and some don't say. Don't know what really matters.
I just wanted you to know that the very guy who installed our water softener came out to give us an diagnostic and charged us $240. A day later he sent us a quote for $2480 to repair. I watched your video and realized clear plastic tube that connects the two together was disconnected. I hooked them up and regenerated three times. All the water is now gone and the system is working perfectly. You saved us $2480. Thank you!
Wow!! That's fantastic and exactly why I crerated this channel and these videos to help you!
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That is terrible. Sorry to hear that.. People like that give us all a bad name.. Than again you do appreciate us good guys more when we come around.
For the most part I don't think I have ever regretted hiring it done except for automotive mechanics. Plumbers, electricians are awfully reliable. When it comes to servicemen I nearly always have a warranty. Life is too short to be lived worrying. I do what gives me peace of mind. Whatever gives YOU peace of mind is what I advise.
Was it Rainsoft?
Thank you, sir. I just finished changing the resin media on my clack valve based water softener. Everything was as described in your video - messy, but easily accomplished by this average DIYer and a whole lot cheaper than a plumber. 😊
Glad it helped. Please share video with friends and family
Thanks for the video, just got done replacing my resin. I dumped the old resin onto an old throw away sheet on top of the basement floor drain. That worked good, then bagged the old resin and sheet for garbage. Also I found with my new resin that if I slowly sort of shook it out of the bag into the tank it dropped in better without clogging as much.
Thank you for adding some great tips!
Great job instructing! And I instructed for many years. It is rare that all the “possibles” are covered, but you did it. And the organized order was perfect!
Thanks for watching. Please share video with friends and family
I did the the job 🙂
I could be wrong but when I took top off, it looked like media resin was all the way to the top, just 2-3 inches of free board.
your information is wonderful and you seem like someone who is very trustworthy and honest. really appreciate you and your content.
You are so welcome. Please share video with friends and family.
Hey Gary - just wanted to say thanks for this video. After 15 years of service with a carbon refilter I figured it was time to change the resin and this was perfect just to know what to expect especially since I have the same valve just a different computer.
For anyone reading this comment - one tip. I have a turbulator and it just would not stay straight when I was filling it so I ended up with the tube leaning to the side. A feeler gauge was just enough to push it to center and get the head on.
Thanks for the tip!
Gary.... YOU ARE THE MAN! You just saved me 600$ well less the cost of the media! Much thank you's kind sir!
Glad to hear! Please share with friends and family.
Excellent video Gary! I am not a plumber just a DYI guy, but after thoroughly watching this video a couple times, I figured I'd give it a shot...and it worked! 😉
Excellent, DIYers like you is why I made the video. Please share with friends and family.
I am replacing the resin in my Rainfresh softener and your videos are very helpful. What I noticed was a slow deterioration of water flow which my wife was quite conscious of long before me. She also says the water was not as soft as in the past so what we have is low flow with semi soft water. I found no clogging in the piping to and from the softener nor in the valve itself. So I opened the resin tank as per your video and removed the resin with a shop vac. Kind of fun but messy. What I found was the resin filling the entire tank so I am assuming the chlorine in the municipal water here has swollen the resin to the point there is no freeboard space inside the tank. I also found white coloured chips in the bottom of the resin about 1/8 inch long and 1/16 inch wide. I am located in Ontario but still use imperial measure for just about everything but temperature as young people become lost in that part of the conversation. These chips do not dissolve in water so I am assuming they are not brine tank salt molecules binding together but other impurities that have not been flushed out due to the reduced flow of water as that must affect backwash as well as service to the house. The resin is on order from Rainfresh and I am looking into installing a carbon filter before the softener as the resin is not cheap. This softener is 8-10 years old and m question for you is since Ontario has mandated chlorination to municipal drinking water why am I not hearing about softener issues from from friends and neighbours? Before the Walkerton fiasco softeners would last 20+ years with maybe the timer motor going before the resin tank developed leaks. I can't be the only guy who's wife is saying " I've told you a thousand time the bathtub take too long to fill and the water isn't slippery anymore".
That's a great question. I too have noticed this happening sporatically, never to all households in one community or another. It is a real concern if it happens to you and an automatic back washing carbon pre filter like this one waterestore.com/products/hum-auto-back-washable-carbon-filter-1-0 really helps prevent the concern in the future.
Replaced the resin in my softener this weekend. You were right Gary, it is messy, but very satisfying to do the work myself! I made a couple mistakes, but all ended up ok in the end. Instead of unscrewing the head unit, mine had a plastic compression ring that held the head to the threaded lower piece. I removed the screw in the compression clamp only to realize I still had to unscrew the base. There was a crazy multipart 0-ring between those 2 parts. I used some silicone grease to hold that o-ring in place and then re-connected the head to it. Second mistake was starting the regenerate while there was still mostly air in the system. Ended up dumping about 4 cups of resin out of the drain line. Hoping that won't affect performance of a 32K softener, I put a full cubic foot a new resin in. I definitely have learned a lot about these system in the process. Thanks Gary.
Glad to hear the video helped. Every brand is different and as a result there will be differences during this process.
Great video. I would recommend that anyone using the compressed air method to be sure to have an air pressure regulator set for maybe 60 psi.
Also I would run a toothbrush around the tank threads to make sure there was no media in them before reinstalling the valve.
Great tip! Please share video with friends and family!
Just replaced the resin in my Kinetico Model 50. Had to do some work on the head so figured I'd take the opportunity to replace the media as well as it was over 15 years old. Our water is as soft as it's ever been now. Well worth the effort.
Glad to hear it worked for you. Please share video with friends and family!
I bought a house with a 4yr old softener, 32K grain with Clack WS1. Noticed resin coming from the discharge hose. Area is known to have a lot of chloramine in the water. Called local service company, who quoted me $1K to rebuild or $2K to replace. Found the invoice from when the unit was installed: $800 plus labor. Bought a cubic foot of resin. Washed and re-used the gravel. Internals were fine. $150 and 2 hours. DONE. Thank you, Gary.
Perfect! Please share video with friends and family.
I finally tackled this project! This video was excellent, and really prepared me for all the steps I needed to do - especially to prepare to do some of this work outside! This solved my low water pressure issues - probably caused by “expired” resin. Thanks again.
Glad it was helpful! Please share with friends and family.
@@water_estore Hi Gay , thanks for the excellent video. I will do the job by using air pressure. I would like to know what the size and type of connectors like you shown in the video so I build mine. Thanks, Brian
Step by step instructions are fabulous!! We appreciate they detail & thankyou for sharing.
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Another awesome video Gary. I have learned everything I know about deep well water filtration and conditioning from you. So weird that your shop is within 20 kms of my home. Makes so easy to decide where to buy my replacement parts. Thanks again
Thanks 👍 Please share video with friends and family.
Thank you so much for making all these videos, you are a life saver!
You're very welcome! Please share video with friends and family!
Thanks, Gary, for the amazing videos you bring to the world on the topic of Water Softeners! I have been watching your videos and when our own Water Softener went bad with low water pressure (.4 GPM) we couldn't bear it anymore. We purchased the gravel, media, funnel, and riser tube, I think that's all you need. With 1.5 labor and 2.5 hours of hard work, we are ecstatic to report our Water Softener (WS1 Clack) is back in the business for what it does best softening our city water :-)
Awesome, thank you for letting me know. Please share video with friends and family
Great video, thank you! You told me everything I wanted to know in order to have the courage to tackle my own water softener media replacement. And yes, you did warn that it was going to be messy!
Let us know how it works for you.
@@water_estore
How do I tell how many grains I need? It’s a water depot tank they have quoted me 2000 bucks and by the looks of it just needs need resin replacement.
I can see it anywhere on the tank or Manual
Excellent video, Gary! I've worked on water systems for decades and never heard of a sweat jacket. Now I know how to deal with the condensation problem in my pump-house!
Glad to help. You might want to check out my video on sweat jackets here ua-cam.com/video/3ppg3gQVAlI/v-deo.html
Thank you a thousand times! I tackled this today and it was easier that it looks. Saved $400.
Nice, please share with friends and family
My 17 years old softener was not softening the water at all, then I found out about a granular product called 'Iron Out' that is suppose to clean out the resin beads. So I did 2 treatments with a bit extra strength of 1 & 1/2 cups (instead of the recommended 1 cup) diluted in 1/2gallon of warm water, then poured into the brine well. Did 1 teatment one day with a manual regen, then a 2nd treatment two days later with a 2nd regen. Soon after, I was getting very soft water again, almost to soft! This Iron Out powder works great, it cleared the junk out of my resin beads without having to replace them.
Yes, it is a great product, we also have this media cleaner waterestore.com/products/pro-res-care-water-softener-resin-cleaner
Excellent video - So detailed and helpful - You're a Star !
Many thanks......all the way from London.
Glad it was helpful!
Wonderful job explaining this project Gary, it was easily understood and awesome camera shots and editing. 💛🖒👍
Thank you! Please share video with friends and family!
Thanks again Gary for another wonderful video.
I’ve learnt so much from you and saved a ton of money.
Cheers mate.
Glad to help! Please share video with friends and family!
Gary, I just wanted to say thanks to you. I have learnt so much from your detailed videos about water softeners and saved some money. I have a question - Is it possible to drain the tank without a compressor?
Thnaks, yes it is, but a compressor is the best way to get most of the water out. This video shows you an alternate way. ua-cam.com/video/hkMVGVbtAA4/v-deo.html
@@water_estore, Thank you very much for all your assistance.
I just replaced an old unit with a new aquasure 64,000 grain softener. Set it to factory regeneration every 1000 gallons. Will also do a yearly manual regeneration maintenance with iron out straight to the brine well. Hope it will extend the life so I won't need to replace the resin any time soon! Great video
Glad you liked it. Please share with friends and family.
This video is fantastic. Having just moved into our home a year ago, I'm not sure if our media needs replacing yet but I feel that the video is thorough enough for me to tackle this on my own (or with a little help from the guys in my household).
Glad to hear that you liked it! Please share with friends and family.!
Where can I find the media for me to get? I have a rain soft. And I live in Charleston, South Carolina.
Thanks for this very informative video. One question, there is supposed to be a resin screen that prevents the media from flowing into the house plumbing. How do you check this screen to make sure that it’s in good working order? The reason I ask is because another UA-cam viewer had an issue when replacing the media where the media ended up in the plumbing causing the faucets to clog and creating a huge mess. Is the screen located at bottom of the tank? Thanks so much for your help.
Great question. There are two. The one at the bottom of the riser tube and the one at the top, see this link waterestore.ca/products/hum-riser-tube-and-upper-screen-replacement-combo
Great video Gary! I have my resin and funnel, ready to go. One thing, I'm confused about why you started a regeneration cycle at the beginning of the process. Was that just to help flush water out of the system, or was there some other reason for that?
Releasing the pressure inside the tank to make is easier (and dryer) when disconnecting from the plumbing.
Thank you for taking the time to create these videos, I know it is a lot of work but you manage to make it look easy. Your videos are very straight forward and easy to understand. My water softener is over 20 years old and the resin media has been replaced once about 8 years ago. The head is the original and has a non-digital flow meter to regen after 500 gallons. The softener stopped working and when I manually put in Regen mode, nothing happens. Brine and salt remain in the tub for over a week now and not getting sucked into the water softener. Do you have any suggestions on what I can do to troubleshoot? Also, can I put a new up to date digital head on tank? Thank you!
It is difficult to say what could be causing nothing happening during regeneration, could the tank be clogged?
Hello. I presume that after a year you've solved this, or replaced your softener since it's over 20 years old. But for those that might have a similar issue, I'll relate my experience.
The brine tank was getting fuller and fuller, week after week, and never was the bring taken into the softener during regeneration. The issue turned out to be an air leak at one of the fittings used to join the flexible plastic tube to the rigid plastic tube that sits in the brine tank and has a filter on the end. I observed that during the regeneration, the air check valve, which is a clear plastic bubble with a small rubber ball inside it would be drained of water during the brine draw stage, in only a few seconds, and then the rubber ball would drop, sealing the hole and no more water would be drawn, only air, because of that air leak. Whatever water was in the tube would be drawn in, but air being less dense than water, is going to be drawn into the hose after that, if there is a leak. So you have to make absolutely sure that your fittings are good. There are probably other causes, but this was what happened to me.
Great video Gary! What kind/brand of resin do you recommend for removing iron in well water? Many thanks.
Great question, we use 3 different ones depending on your situation. This video explains ua-cam.com/video/CN_n0Qz-z3k/v-deo.html
We bought our water softener from you in 2010 or 11? Followed your videos and free water tests to diagnose and determined it needed to be re-bedded. I did everything here, but I put it in the car and dropped it off at The Water Store to do the messy part. Started at 9:00am, up and running by 12:00pm. Re-bedding cost seemed reasonable based on the price of the resin beads and quick turnaround.
Glad to hear it worked out for you, thank you for your business and your kind words.
Since my system is 18 years old, I am going to replace the media.
1. I have a 1052 tank that has a Clack WS1 control valve. I can't recall if I had a gravel base when I first put it together with a plumber. At that tank size, should I consider using gravel? We are on a municipal water supply. BTW this unit is used for just my wife and I who are retired, so at 48K grains it may be a bit oversized but it was what was recommended when I bought it.
2. Is it okay to use 10% resin? The tank label includes info. about temp ranges, pressure and vacuum but nothing about resin specification. It is made by Pentair water.
Grateful for your time and any assist.
I assume you mean for a water softener. You don't need gravel unless the tank is 12" in diameter or larger (or for an iron filter). Yes, 10% Resin is just fine. We have ours here waterestore.com/products/excelclear-premium-grade-water-softener-media-1-cubic-foot
Thanks Gary! I have removed the riser/distribution tube from my resin tank. I was surprised to note that it has a top basket and bottom strainer/basket. Both appear intact but they seem permanently attached (glued?) as I cannot seem to find a way to remove either without fear of twisting too hard and damaging - this makes it harder to thoroughly spray out the tube. Is this common? There also appears to be a shorter tube inside the main tube that is sitting about 6-10" down from the top of the main tube and runs along along the upper ~ 1/3 of the main tube. Any idea what that could be and is it okay for it to be there?
Hey Gary, thank you for the video's! They're helping me do this project tremendously! I have a Waterlite Excelflow 0835. I was trying to buy resin on your website but don't see it list this size in the paragraph for how much I need to put in. Would you be able to help me so I can make my order please! Thank you!
Great to hear! You would need 2/3 of a bag of media, we have it here waterestore.com/products/excelclear-premium-grade-water-softener-media-1-cubic-foot
@@water_estore thank you, keep up the great work! You’ve made a huge impact helping people, hope you know that! Have a great day!
There has been extremely minimal info online about my water softener I mentioned. It took about 8 hours on the computer yesterday to find out it was the 20 000 grain a20 model haha. If you happened to make a video about the brand and their water softener line up sharing info on parts, models and how to tell the difference etc between models that would have been a huge help. This company doesn’t subtract an inch on the bottle height for instance it seems. It’s a 0835 not 0834 even though it measures 35”. I think you could increase your reach on these specific units heavily and become the only source for the info and maybe parts. I’m tearing mine apart before I order cause my screen broke I think and sent media throughout the house. But there’s no video or photo of the a20 or similar models anywhere, even the companies product pages.. I’ll need to check to see what the screen looks like before I make my order. But I’m really hoping it’s the same as the hum you have listed on your website. I’ve searched for waterier water softener screens and again nothing comes up. I may end up ordering a whole new pickup tube off the website and cutting it to size as you had mentioned. Again thank you, just wanted to leave this as reciprocation and some insight from my water softener experience so hopefully it helps you reach and help more people such as myself. 😄 have a great day!
Gary, you have helped my husband and I learn so much about our water filter systems and how they work. We’ve had low water pressure since we’ve bought our house, and it’s slowly gotten worse. We are going to tackle changing the media ourselves, with the knowledge you have taught us, we feel confident we can get the job done! Thank you so much for all of your amazing, helpful videos!!
You arte welcome. Please share video with friends and family.
"my husband and me"
@@bkhoavo wow thanks for the grammar lesson 🙄
Trust me cuddlebear, you guys will NOT have a problem pulling this off yourself if you follow the steps outlined by Gary in this detailed video. I too had my reservations at first about tackling this kind of job myself, but after watching this video a few times and soaking everything in, I got 'er done...and I'm no plumber 🪠
Great video, followed it to the T. My water was very hard according to the test. I recently changed the resin, how long will it take for water to soften?
Right after the first regeneration.
@@water_estore thank you for the response. It appears the way my system is setup, the water goes to the softener, then the water heater. Should I dump my hot water tank first? Seems that the old hard water is still there maybe?
God bless Canadian people. The most helpful on UA-cam. Thank you sir for your selflessness on posting this procedure. You saved me quite a bit of money. I'm curious though, is media, media? Or should I stay away from Amazon stuff? Anything you recommend? In a very hard water area, no real iron issues. Being that it's not cheap and I need a cubic foot (I'm in the U.S), I'm curious on your perspective. Again, thank you!
Glad to help! this is the water softener media (resin) that we use. waterestore.com/products/excelclear-premium-grade-water-softener-media-1-cubic-foot
Hi Gary! I need to know what systems are in place in my home to use your tips! I’ve identified most filters and have a hunch on another but I’m not 100% after google searching. Can you help ID? Thanks so much for your videos!
Sure can! Just email us some pictures of your system and we can identify and recommend maintenance video to helkp you. Our email is info@waterestore.com
I subscribed when you cleaned that other drain tube you weren’t working on
Thank you for subscribing!
do you need a stone bed on the bottom....or is that just for acid neutralizers? thanks
Water softeners don't need them until the tank is 12" or larger.
Great video, thanks. How often should the carbon and softener media be replaced?
Great question! Basically once they stop working. Can be anywhere from 5 to 25 years. By the way you might want to check out my Water Softener Live Stream Q&A tonight at 7 PM Eastern Time here ua-cam.com/video/D8jr27DAekg/v-deo.html
This is another great video Gary! I think that I might need to have the media replaced in my water softener, but my issues are not the ones you described in this video. What I am experiencing is very soft water right after a regen, but within a week or so, the water is back to being very hard, the dishes out of the dishwasher feel dusty, and our kettle for boiling water has "powder" both floating in the water and at the bottom of the kettle. I have actually passed this water through a paper coffee filter and collected what looks like very fine, slightly yellowish, powder. This powder problem will last for a few days or so (some days much worse than others) and then sometimes will disappear for many days before being noticed again. I purchased a bottle for RES CARE from you a few weeks back and put that through the water softener hoping that would fix it, and it did seem better for a while, but today the "powder" issue is back, worse than ever. Do you think my media needs to be replaced, or is the cause likely something else?
It sounds like you are running out of capacity. I would check the settings. ua-cam.com/video/XMY69hdhX44/v-deo.html
@@water_estore Hi Gary. I checked the settings, and everything seems to be ok. I have never changed them myself since it was installed. The water softener system is 9 years old and only has 1 more year of warranty, so I called the store to ask for help. After asking me a number of questions they have determined that the root cause of the problem is most likely the salt I have been using for the past few years. I switched from the salt they sell at their store to WINDSOR CLEAN and PROTECT which they say contains gluten to bind the pellets together and that has probably gummed up the system. They asked me to clean out my brine tank, put in a bag of their salt with 4-5 gallons of water, wait at least 4 hours, then force a regen. If this does not work, they will make a service call. Funny thing is, I thought WINDSOR salt was a good product. Live and learn I guess.
Great video! but do you have any suggestion in case of little or almost no room for moving arround the resin tank?
Sorry, no I don’t
Thanks. Going to try this next weekend. Hoping I don't create a big mess trying to clean out the resin from the tank. I was thinking of emptying it into a burlap sack so that it would catch the beads while the water is flowing out.
Thanks this video ended up being very useful! I had to lightly tap the pump assembly with a rubber mallet to knock it loose. And you're right, this was really messy nasty job. Procedurally easy, but just a mess. I also ended up losing the basket down the riser tube and had to fish it out with a wire hanger. Initially I had slipped it onto the riser tube rather than reattaching to the pump assembly first. That was fun. One other tip is to remove the power cord from the control board to make removal of the pump assembly easier. My power cord is fixed to the wall, so removal was the way to go. Thanks for this video. Our old resin was only allowing through 1.3 gal/min. With the new resin it's 4-5 gal/min. So much better!
Glad to hear it worked for you. Please share with friends and family.
Very informative and much appreciated! So easy to follow the steps. Question: I replaced the drain elbow and forgot to add back the DFLC component (doh!). I caught my mistake a little after starting a regen. I could hear the media in the drain tube. I quickly cycled the head out of regen mode. Do you think the media loss was insignificant? I just replaced it!
No way of knowing, depends on how long it ran for.
Great Videos! I can't seem to find any place online to buy parts from where do uncertified people buy parts besides media?
Great question. You can buy any of the items discussed on my videos from my ecommerce stores in USA WaterEstore.com in Canada WaterEstore.ca
Aqua tell
@@water_estore you can’t look on your website without giving you my email & phone number??
Hey Gary, do you have a video on how to replace the media on a Aquamaster/AO Smith/Waterboss softeners?
No I don't. I've looked into it and it does not seem feasible. I would just replace the softener.
Hi there. Thanks for a great detailed video on how to do it yourself. Do you have a preferred media resin brand? I have a 54x10 tank. Thanks
Yes I do! This is the one that we use waterestore.ca/products/excelclear-premium-grade-water-softener-media-1-cubic-foot
Hi Gary,
Awesome video !!! super helpful !!! Thank you very much !!!
My water softener system has the same controller head as the one in your video. It's a 3M CWS150 with a 1.5 Cu ft tank. I have had the system for 10 years now and for the past couple weeks I notice the water pressure inside the house is super low. I've isolated the problem to the water softener as I know the pressure is back to normal when I put the water softener in bypass mode. I've followed your other video to clean the resin with Iron Out but that didn't help. Do you think it's time for me to replace the resin ? if so, what type of resin should I use ? and how much resin do I need ?
Thanks Gary !!! very much appreciate your help !!!
Danny
I assume you would just use 1.5 cubic feet of normal water softening resin but you can check with 3M to make sure.
Thanks for this vid, any chance you know why my resin has leaked out all over my concrete when it did a ReGen?
Sounds like you have a cracked tank.
Great video! Generally, how often should you replace the media? Should this be done as a preventative maintenance or only when you notice clear signs of failure?
Great question! Only when there are signs of failure. Typically the media will outlast the rest of the softener.
Common consensus is 10 years for "normal" hard water, and sooner for extremely hard water.
Great video, I'm new to water softener and this is very helpful thanks! How can I figure it out the brand of our system?
Unless the brand is marked on the water softener or you have information from when it is purchased it is difficult.
Hey Gary - good videos. I have 4 year old IronBreaker III. I've started to get small black particles in my water. It clogs the faucets screens and lays at the bottom of each toilet tank. What is causing this, and can I fix this with DYI maintenance?
Try following the recommendations in this video. ua-cam.com/video/JWldz8W3xyg/v-deo.html
I have a WaterRight version of Clack valve that hasn't been softening for a while. I'm working with local service to replace the softener media. I think its proprietary CrystalRight CR100 which helps raise the PH a little bit for our acidic water and is tolerant of chlorine and helps with iron.
So I drained the tank (thanks for the great instructions) simply by siphoning the water out and I'll take the tank in to have them replace the media (2 cubic feet), screens, etc without having them make a house call.
To my surprise, the tank is very light, maybe 40 lbs after simply siphoning water out, no tipping to pour out. There's probably still a couple inches of water in it. I was expecting over 100 lbs of media in this 13x54 tank, plus gravel and tank, so I suspect that most or all of my media was lost before.
How can I troubleshoot how it was lost so I don't get a repeat? Of course we can inspect that the screens are intact when it is emptied out and cleaned before adding the new stuff.
Since it was originally installed, the well pump was replaced with a slightly more powerful one and well control switch were raised to 50/70psi (don't recall if it was 30/40 or 40/60 before). The pressure tank pre-charge was adjusted accordingly as well to 48psi I think.
Would rapidly opening the bypass while the valve was in backwash, or something like that, flush the media out with the discharge? Isn't there a screen to prevent that?
There should be a screen at the top (underside of valve) and a basket at the bottom of the riser tube. Likely the one at the top is cracked. Replace them both and the riser tube and you should be fine.
Hi Mr Gary, thanks for sharing your knowledge with us I have a question regarding the head of a thank mine is digital couple months ago the board just lit I can't see other info.Do you think I can just replace the head, are they the same size? I will troubleshoot it soon because the brine tank is full of water and salt don't dissolve
Hey Gary, great video, do you ever install gravel in the bottom surrounding the riser tube strainer?
Not in a softener for residential use, but in iron filters and other products.
Thank you for the video. Is it normal after doing this to get some resin coming out of the faucet?
If you backwashed it properly there should not be any resin coming out of the faucet.
I have a Sterling IM45-1 water softener. The media is starting to get into the pipes. After watching your video I have decided to replace the gravel, media, and two basket filters. I am runing into one issue. I have read the product documentation and searched the internet over, but can't find a specification for the top basket. Are the top baskets on water softeners a universal specification that is common between them?
No, they are not but seeing that your water softener uses the Clack WS1 head this basket should fit waterestore.ca/products/hum-water-filtration-valve-upper-screen-1
I'm curious about "let this finish up" because steps 12&13 above are a little confusing. It was put into manual backwash just by starting a regen? Doesn't the regen cycle start with filling the brine tank? I think these instructions could be different for different models and could cause big problems. What do you think? I have air in my softener cylinder I have to purge but I don't want to risk drawing up a bunch of my new resin. I need to do a full regen cycle but want to catch the backwash for getting the air out or do it manually prior. I think I can cycle through stages but trying to get it right the first time. -K
Yes, some softeners start the regen cycle by adding water, the one in this video adds the water as the last step. Sure, yours might differ so you can always ask the manufacturer of your water softener.
@@water_estore Thanks for the reply. I was able to cycle through ther egen stages and successfully purge the air from our softener! Some wild directions in our manual but worked out good. Our water is extraordinary after changing the softener media. Clear, zero smells. Used Purolite brand. That stuff is weird when it flows w water. Like sand. Tiny spherical balls.
Thank you. I learned a lot and changed my resin .
I’m in the middle of replacing my media due to no pressure at all. My tank is 54” and probably 10” diameter. There was gravel at the bottom when I removed the old media. You mentioned not needing it if it’s a small than 12” tank, I also read there’s been research that it’s not needed for my size and some companies don’t use it anymore for a tank my size. Should I still use gravel or not? I already purchased the media. Thanks in advance.
If it’s a water softener, correct. If it’s an iron filter or something else it will likely need gravel
@@water_estore thank you for the quick reply! Yes it is a water softener. I just didn’t want to replace the media and a year from now something goes wrong or clogs due to not using the gravel.
If the drain line on a unit like this is run overhead do you recommend installing a check valve on the drain line?
Yes, you can but they are prone to rattling and occasionally seizing. I don't have one in my house and the drain is overhead.
Gary FYI, lately when I’ve been installing these water softeners instead of using the tubing provided, I have been using 1/2in. Pex pipe and shark bite makes a very convenient half inch check valve compression fitting that works perfect in this application
Any tips on replacing resin on a twin alternating 300,000 grain unit with 2" valves? Resin tanks are 24" by 72" tall. I' m estimating each tank weighs 1,500 lbs full so it needs to be extracted. I would like to reclaim and clean the gravel bed since there is supposed to be 150 lbs in each.
I've never worked on anything that large. But the procedure should be the same. Not sure about reclaiming the gravel, though.
Gary. I installed a tannin filter last spring to go with my existing iron filter. It is plumbed in downstream from the iron filter. When pumping the water out of the tank to winterize it, the water was coming out the color of Starbucks coffee. It looked to me like it's not backflushing all the tannins out of the tank and they are being concentrated inside. I have 1 cf of media in a 1.5cf tank. Regen every 3 days using less than 100 gallon/day. The iron and tannin system has completely cleared up my water, but it looks like a problem may be on the horizon.
Any thoughts on whether this will fail in the near future?
I would try citric acid waterestore.ca/products/citric-acid-tannin-filter-cleaner?_pos=426&_sid=2fb85afa7&_ss=r as outlined in this video ua-cam.com/video/c8QKYr3B02I/v-deo.html to clean the tannin media.
Hello. Can I periodically add resin to my softener? Last change was around 20 months ago. Thanks!
No becasue you will compromise the freeboard, space above the media. Your media should last far longer than 20 months, usually 20 years!
I have the same clack control head. I’ve replaced my resin with 10 percent crosslink but I filled it all the way to the top. And I just filled it up full blast and had resin inside my brine tank. I just recently added a little bleach to disinfect and I believe it got the resin muddy and some “mud “ was in my brine tank so I’m replacing again. My tank says 1.5 resin capacity but I remember only using 1 foot and that was filling it up to the top. I will fill it up with 10 inches from the top now.
On the clack I can see the setting for grain capacity. I have it at 48,000. If I only use 1 foot and leave it at 48k instead of like 36k would that hurt anything? Or would it over clean the resin as it thinks it’s cleaning 48k worth of resin?
I can’t find a salt pound setting on this. I’m assuming when I set it at 48k grain capacity that it automatically sets the salt at correct pounds??
Thanks for any answers on that as I can’t find it on google anywhere
If you leave it set at 48,000 you will run out of capacity, I would change it to 80% of 30,000 or 24,000. Thsi video will help you with the programming ua-cam.com/users/livec6r7qUK8to4?si=sQMlq2rj8OpyyAMG
@@water_estoreok thanks. Do you know the reason for the capacity setting? Is my logic flawed thinking that leaving it at 48k means it’ll think it needs to clean 48k worth of resin? I don’t mind over cleaning if that’s the case. It’s also set to regen every 14 days and I don’t use that much water so I’m always way ahead of needing a cleaning. Sorry for the questions as I can’t seem to find an answer on what the capacity setting means exactly. But I’ll switch my setting after I put in 1 cu ft of resin instead of the 1.5
in one of your videos you said i could use bleach to clean the bed…just wondering if this can be done to an activated carbon bed….my plumber friend had mentioned years ago that the carbon absorbs the bleach rendering it ineffective….your thoughts???
I wouldn't use it on carbon, if it has stopped working you will need to repalce the carbon. We ahve it here waterestore.com/products/coconut-carbon-12-x-40-mesh-1-cubic-foot-media
"I've had that happen..." is the most real thing I've heard.... lol
After over 20 years in this industry I've made every single mistake you can think of and share this content so hopefully you won't make the same mistake.
Hi Gary, my water had been fluctuating (pressure) for a couple of days and yesterday we loss water completely, called our the plumber he closed out the valves of the mineral tank and we had water again, his diagnosis was that my mineral tank was bad and it needed to be replaced for $2,200. I asked him could the mineral tank be clogged and/or in need of re bedding? His answer was terse No! Just wondering your thoughts?
He's wrong, he would just prefer to replace it for you. It can 100% be rebedded to fix the problem. see this troubleshooting video ua-cam.com/video/tCQQxiT-zoc/v-deo.html
My water softener looks exactly like this but is around 20 years old and water out has a lot of salt and actually the TDS is higher than the city water! Would doing this give it a new life or will it make more sense to get a brand new system? Thanks!
It might, but keep in mind, typically the water after a water softener does have a slightly higher TDS (but much lower hardness) I would make sure your settings are correct for the hardness of your city water and have your water tested for hardness (not TDS) after the softener.
great video, but I have difficulty to unscrew the tank from the unit.
Any idea what is the torque I need to apply as my unit is a Fleck5600 and I do not dare to force too much on this plastic/synthetic piece??? I made a special tool to apply force onto the ribs at the base of the unit but still cannot manage .
I don't know the torque but make 100 % sure that all of the pressure is gone from inside the tank before trying to remove the valve.
How do you dispose of the old resin? Is it recyclable? If not, is it considered hazardous or can one just throw it in the trash (assuming it was bagged)?
You should be able to just throw it out but better check with your municipality first.
Hi Gary, I am about to replace my resin. Question is, what resin do you recommend? So many brands out there? I have a 1.5 cu ft tank rated for 48,000 grains. City water. Thank you.
Great question. This is what we use waterestore.com/products/excelclear-premium-grade-water-softener-media-1-cubic-foot
Hey Gary , 2 questions .and a tip
1 a clack ws1 valve with an error 2 on the display , not a card issue as tried another card out of a working valve and error 2 on this card also .
The valve with the cover off tries to reposition itself on power up ,with small movements left and right on the visible white cog . The pcb carriage shifts a little also but in the end error 2 keeps coming on the display .
2 Any tips for removing the valve off the riser tube without lifting the tube ,even with gravel /sand bed .
Those valves get a good tight grip on the risers.
Tip . I use the plastic/rubber covers off an Aqua pro UV 3/4 inch. In and out pipe thread protectors for the top of the riser tube when pouring media in to the filters .
Fits perfectly .
Error 2 is that something is binding the piston, this video should help ua-cam.com/video/v_oF5w5dB1U/v-deo.html. Yes, it is almost impossible to remove the valve without the riser tube comin up with it. So either don't remove it unless you are fuilly prepared to replace the media.
Or as you have the valve about 1/2 way unthreaded, whip the valve back and forth numerous times to try to break the valve free from the riser tube. Sometimes it works, but usually not.
Thank you for the tip!!
Hey Mr Gary wasap ? I just wanna know if you have to clean all three same bottles the same way and replace with new media or it's only 1?
Great question. You only need to repalce the media in the one that stopped working.
With good valves in bypass, can you have the water on, and not disrupt the water inside the house? Just in case I take a longer time
Yes you can, but it will not be treated water.
@@water_estore Thanks for the reply.
How do you unscrew the main unit off near the bypass? It looks like he did a simple spin. My unit is tightened so hard and I can't even get a tool in there to loosen it
These just need to be hand tight. It sounds like whoever put this in got a little carried away, Large pliers will work.
I have lots of iron / rust in my water. What system do you suggest before the softener?
Also i have 7 ppb of Arsenic. Is there a filter system for that so i don't have to use RO filters at the sink?
To remove iron from your water this video will help you choose the best iron filter ua-cam.com/video/af1iVOC-Hyk/v-deo.html
The FOK also removes arsenic. We have them here waterestore.ca/search?type=product&q=fok*
@@water_estore So i just noticed you didn't add gravel to the bottom.
Is gravel required or optional for a softener?
@@water_estore Sorry, nevermind, i see that you answered that question several times below. Gravel is not needed for a residential softener, only iron filter.
Hey Gary, I have a Windsor series WS-32 water softener with clack valve that I had Plumbing contractor install approx. 5 years ago.
I was having some issues with the softener not softening properly so I was going through some of your suggestions to try to trouble shoot the problem. Not that I think it has anything to do with it, but when I cleaned out the Brine Tank I noticed that there is not a grid plate, or platform at the bottom as shown in my owners manual. The salt sits right on the bottom of the Brine Tank. Should I be concerned, will that cause a problem?
No, we don't use those plates in our softeners either.
@@water_estore thank you. Your videos have been very helpful.
Great video, my softer is a cabnet style any chance I could use a shop vac to get the old media out?
Yes, but it will be difficult. You will need to remove the media tank from the brine tank.
Hi Gary, you did awesome job with these videos...I purshased a house with one of these tank, but i don’t know what it does. Is it a water softener, an iron filter or a sediments filter. How can i make the difference cause they seems to look alike. I’m about to replace the stuff inside and clean it up like you did on your videos but it seems impossible to determine what is his fonction. Can you help me with that please?
Water softeners are connected to brine tanks, that's usually a give away. Iron filter and sediment filter are a little more difficult. You can always email me some pictures at info@waterestore.com
What do you do if there is a leak from the E Clip when the softner regenerates? Thanks!
Good question. Remove the fitting and use plumbers clear silicone grease on the o ring.waterestore.ca/products/plumbers-clear-silicone-grease-5g?_pos=448&_sid=ce0e6e664&_ss=r If that does not help you will need to replace the fitting. waterestore.ca/products/clack-ws1-drain-elbow-v315801?_pos=153&_sid=ce0e6e664&_ss=r
Hi Gary - Sorry one last question. I have an iron filter and softener next to each other, similar to your setup. For the drain lines, I ran both of them into a single T valve connector, which then connects to a hose that runs outside. The iron filter regens about every 3 days at 2:00, and the softener between 7-10 days at 3:00am. So in theory it's very unlikely they would regen at the same time. Is this configuration ok? Is there any chance the dirty water from a regen could push back up into the other device? Thanks, Tim
They should never regenerate at the same time. Since the regen time of the iron filter should be shorter than 1 hour you are fine. No, the dirty water from one will not enter the other.
@@water_estore Thank you!
Gary, we have elevated level of uranium in our well water. A local company recomended a mixed media filter that would need to be changed once a year. Also a new water softner. Caresoft eliete rc. It is a water softner and carbon filter in one with separate brine tank. Does this sound like a proper system?
I don't know much about uranium removal but I don't like mixed bed water softeners becasue the carbon section will need replacement before the resin beads. Also, I would definitley add a reverse osmosis drinking water system like this waterestore.ca/products/hum-water-saver-reverse-osmosis-system-75-gallons-per-day
hi! thx for your video! very cool! could you please tell me how high can the drain be? do i need a pump or will the drain water pressure the same like the inlet water pressure? how do the softener suck the salt sole when there is no pump? please explain me that! thx
The drain can be at the 8 foot level as water is forced out under pressure.
How often do you have to change the media in an fob ironfilter?
Great question! It depends on the amount of iron in your water and how much water you use. Most people get 12- 20 years. I've a couplf exceptions where it is 7-10.
@@water_estore Awesome thank you😁
How to replace carbon & resin in my Anderson Water dual media softener system? I have one stainless steel tank that I believe has resin on bottom and carbon on top. With a separate salt tank. Thank you
You would need to know how much carbon, resin and gravel is used in your tanks. The gravel would be added first, then the resin and carbon last.
@@water_estore Thank you for the info. Have yourself a GREAT day!!!
What's the purpose of putting the valve into backwash for a few seconds before closing the inlet/outlet valves to the house plumbing?
To release the pressure inside it
Can I used this same clack model as an iron filter.. if so do I replace it with a different type of media?
Yes, but it would require significant modification and cost so it is not recommended. Our iron filter are here waterestore.com/search?pf_pt_product_type=System&q=Hum+fok
Hey Gary, how much do you typically charge to exchange the media on a softener this size?
Great question. We do not exchange the media in customers homes as it is far too messy and our weather is not compatible with doing it outsdie and it is still soo messy to do outside at a custoemrs home. We just replace the tank with new media. About $700-$900 Canadian.
@@water_estore That makes a lot of sense, thanks!
What about the other tank in a dual tank system? Will I have to change media in there too? Nobody ever mentions the other tank.
Yes, if you have two media tanks you need to repalce the media in both.
Hi Gary,
I'd like to tackle changing the resin/media bed in my Aquapure iron removal system but not sure what resin to use or how much. I have high iron content in my well water as well as manganese. Also, where is a good place to buy the supplies needed like the correct size funnel, tube, etc? Thanks!
This video shows you how to calculate media amount ua-cam.com/video/-KeuIvIyMis/v-deo.html We have the replacement media here waterestore.ca/products/katalox-lite-media-1-cubic-foot-free-shipping?_pos=78&_sid=419ab3855&_ss=r
just wondering if the media can be washed like fish aquarium gravel and then put back in. I have a huge media tank and I don't think 2 people can do this job. I followed all of your other videos and I still don't have soft water. Also, I see resin cleaning chemicals on Ebay. Do they work? I don't have a water pressure problem either, just had a clogged filter which I realized after watching one of your viedos. The problem was hard water and using up all the salt and salt tank filling with water. After I cleaned the filter the salt is lasting and going through regen process but water is still hard. This unit is huge. It is Logix 90 000 grain metered water softener. Date code March 2012. Model 90 KLM. I just moved into this house so I don't know if I need to replace this water softener or not.
No, the media cannor be washed out since every time it goes through a regeneration it is backwashing. You will either need to replace the softener or the media.
@@water_estore thanks Gary your videos are amazing. I have a pentair 255/762 and the tank is a 14"×65 blue 2.5". Do you know where I could find out what type of resin I need and how much of it? The model is 2012 so it's not terribly old. Everything else seems to be working.
Hello Gary, Not sure if my first message went through so I'm trying again. I have a Windsor Softener, WS-32 with a Clack Valve that I was having softening issues with so I replaced the media and gravel following one of your step by step videos earlier in the year. That did the trick, but now recently I have been noticing media in the laundry sink after each load of laundry and it appears to be getting worse. I realize that this is not good so I bypassed the Valve. Can you tell me please why this may be happening as well as how to remedy the issue. Any helpful suggestions would be much appreciated. Thank you
Sorry to hear. Likley the top basket has come loose. You might be able to carefully remove the valve and reattach it or if all else fails disassemble, fix the problem and repalce the media again.
Could you use a wet/dry vac to remove the old media?
Great question! Yes you can, you would need to make sure there was water in with the media to fluidize it.
hi Gary,
what are the pros and cons of using 12% hydrogen peroxide in salt brine tank to clean resin bed ?
Really don't know, alwasy used this cleaner for the media waterestore.com/products/pro-res-care-water-softener-resin-cleaner
You have a video on the combo softener with the carbon and resin in one tank ?
No I do not, most applications of carbon and resin work very poorly, this one is the exception waterestore.ca/products/aquamaster-ams-950-high-efficiency-water-softener
Hi Gary - I have a GE water softer that is about 6 years old. It is not using any salt. I watched a few of your video. I removed all the salt and brine, soaked the tank with warm water and sucked it out. Refilled per instructions, cleaned the filter (it had a small clock) and performed a recharge. No errors on the electronics. Could the problem be the media?
Does it add water during the fill cycle and then suck it out during the brine cycle? This video might help ua-cam.com/video/Lr3jyGiJdC0/v-deo.html