Working on some cold cast jango parts for my girlfriend, I understand the issue w/ the seam lines and cold cast. Fortunately, I found a work around to this. Her armor parts had surface imperfections that were driving me nuts- some air holes here and there on the main surface, mostly along the return edge that would still be visible. I carefully applied some glazing putty over these spots as you would anything else, but applied a small amount of rub and buff after sanding down the spot putty. Fortunately they come in pretty much every metallic color you'd hope for. While rub and buff silver leaf comes out slightly brighter/lighter than standard aluminum cold cast, it blends it quite well, especially after a little bit of weathering you can't even tell. I haven't tried this of course over a blaster/weapon prop but I imagine it can work all the same What I find interesting is that I've done a few cold-cast pieces myself, but I've always mixed the powder into the resin on top of dusting the mold. Maybe it has different finishing results, but that eliminated the concern for removing the top layer from over-sanding and I can go at it with the polish quite nicely. Thanks for the vids! I need to get more learned up for mold making...
Thanks for the info! I've seen a few other cold cast projects that also mitigated the sanding issue by adding more of the metal powder to the resin mix. They used a 1:1:1 ratio of powder, Part A and Part B when mixing the resin.
Hey Bill, thanks for the 101's. I'm not (yet) ready to make my own props, nor have I bought any of them, but it's a lot fun and inspiration to watch your videos.
np mate you are extremely informative and you talk to your audience not down to them and that's HUGE. Anyways keep on with great vids. May the Force Be With You Always
It's a bit more expensive but I would add an extra step to the cold casting: After covering the inside of the mold with metallic powder, mix 1 part A for 1 part B for one part metal powder (in volume) + some black tint. A small amount, just enough to rotocast a fine film of resin all over the inside of the mold. That way you can clean up the seam and have more metallic material to buff whitout worrying too much about removing the fine metallic layer. I would add that buffing with the back of a metallic spoon after using the steel wool will add even more shine. My 2cents :)
Awesome stuff. I'm really digging this series, and it's been super-informative and helpful (along with the rest of the content you guys put out). Thanks :)
Please do another FAQ - my questions would be - A - how do you gauge where to cut your release line on a one part mold a B- How and when should you split a model into parts for molding and how do you know when to use a one part or two part mold. thank you very much, happy new years!
I know this is an old video, but I'm currently considering cold casting for a project and I have a couple of questions: 1) How heat resistant is a cold cast bronze object? I'm thinking of making a stamp for wax seals and I want to know if the temperature the sealing wax (221F or slightly lower) would deform or damage a cold cast stamp after 1 or 2 uses. 2) Could you pour cold cast bronze resin on a metal piece to get a negative of it? What about sulfur free clay? If so, is there a mold release product I should use? cheers!
Hey man, Great Video, what about cold casting Urethane Rubber? Have you done this before? Should the same techniques be used for buffing it up? Im just wondering if a wire wool would take the coating off quicker on a urethane rubber piece
Same technique works for uncured polymer clay only you add the metallic powder ( I use PearlEx) with a finger tip. I'd be interested to try the "dusting" technique and see what happens. Would have to do polishing before curing I think, though, which could be a bit more complicated.
Also, IF you were really careful and depending upon the piece, you could use a large straw carefully cut in half, lengthwise and slowly drizzle some of the resin down into the lowest point of the mold as a starting point. Then, once you have enough down inside, you can continue without the straw. Just be careful when both inserting and removing the straw half. you may also want to have something to temporarily hold the straw in place so that it is not touching the walls of your mold as well. Just a few thoughts.
This is awesome. Have you done a similar technique with glow in the dark powder? I'm going to be using some for a cosplay coming up - no casting involved, though, just some 3D printing.
Kay, that explains my previous failures, but my next project.... I'm going to replicate my previous failures. I bought a mystery box from Kult of Athena a little while ago, guaranteed ten sabers and "military swords" for $120, couldn't pass up the deal. In it were three copies of same confederate officer's sword. Now I don't need three identical copies hanging around, especially not of CSA swords. They are pretty, so the one in the best shape is hanging above my fireplace on the mantle. The worst one will be restoration practice. The third is getting taken apart so that I can make it my own. I'm thinking of a disk shaped guard made of thick copper and a handle made from a zebra bone. Since the interior of a bone is porous and friable, it'll need to be cleaned out and I'll fill it with a 1-1 mix of casting resin and bronze or iron powder to not only ensure a custom fit to the tang, but also add weight to the handle to balance the blade.
Cool! well.. will epoxy resin work as well? and if i top coat on something with the mixture, will the powder get down n won't give much metallic shine after polishing?
where do you get your metal powders at? I've gotten some silver pearlized powder that i used in one of my recent casts but it didn't come out like i thought it would.
OoohShiney! Im a big hearthstone fan so this video caught my eye in the feed directly. Just curious how you would solve the issue with getting the glyph swirl to glow?
Hey Bill, I am making a set of scales for a friend using cold casting but his intent is to use the scales from a show and I'm worried ware and tear might slowly take off the thin layer of brass. Any recommendations on lasting sealers? I am more worried about scuffs than dulling the finish. Thanks!
I think so! If you're ever unsure you can always reach out to Smooth-On customer service. They do a really great job helping folks find the best way to use their products.
I'm still in awe with that hearthstone piece... I want it so bad haha How? Just.. how? The lines are so precise on that master. Got any tips on how I can make my own?
Does anyone know the difference between cold metal casting with Smoothon 300 vs 325. I've seen tutorials and videos of people using both, and both of them you end up tinting black. I cant seem to find if there is much of a difference between using either? Some insight would be awesome.
Each video of this series Of molding & casting is so nice, it will be your fault if I will spend my money to see some of my 3D printed object is cast in, and this metallic technic is fantastic!
As someone that's done a lot of metal casting, the hearthstone piece doesn't really cut it. It still looks like plastic, it just doesn't have the right reflectivity.
Hey, random question and random gratitude. Thanks for taking the time to reply to comments on old videos. Very cool of you. Now question time: Have you ever experimented with multiple metal powders in a single cold cast mold? For instance is it possible to brush on the powder so you can have brass in one part and copper in another? could you mix the powder with a bit of resin or water and make a paint you can apply (and let it dry before adding the backing resin) or just apply the powder with a brush? I haven't started experimenting yet but thought it would made sense to see what you may have tried before I go full on mad scientist.
That is definitely possible, but super tedious. I've never done it successfully, but I also haven't put much effort into it. I have no idea bout your "metal resin paint" idea either. Worth trying though! I do know you can apply the powder by itself using a brush.
Does cold casting only work for one part molds and projects? I was thinking of cold casting some potential D&D coins that were gold. Also, Happy New Year!
Hi, really enjoy your videos. I've found out about you through the Draw With Jazza collaboration and started binge watching all of your videos. I want to propose to my girlfriend and I thought of making a custon ring for her. I already gave her one made out of wooden veneer. Now my idea is to make a 3D model let it print (I don't have a printer) and create a mold out of it. I would like the ring to be golden so I thought of using clear resin an mix it with gold dust. Can you tell me if the ring would be durable enough to wear it every day for a long time without looking badly torn up? If you read till here thanks for your time and keep up the great work.
Punished Props thanks for the quick response. The big problem is that I don't have enough space to really work secretly on something like that with molten metal and everything. Maybe I can find a workshop that I can rent in my area. But your input really helped a lot. If the ring comes into existence one day I will let you know, but first I need to make a lot more research.
check out MetalRub it's good for this on finishing, it's fine metal dust and accents in a fine resin, for those hard to reach places in small tight groves you can't sand
After a few months I finally made the mold and am ready for cold casting. I’m just wondering, what happens if I don’t tint it black? Is it that big of a difference?
Hey. Your videos are great! Thank you. Hope you could help us. We will like to pay someone to make metal copies of a small emblem we own. Could you help us? Thanks
Thanks so much for watching! Thanks for your interest, but Punished Props is not currently taking on any new commission clients. Thank you for your understanding!
Working on some cold cast jango parts for my girlfriend, I understand the issue w/ the seam lines and cold cast. Fortunately, I found a work around to this. Her armor parts had surface imperfections that were driving me nuts- some air holes here and there on the main surface, mostly along the return edge that would still be visible. I carefully applied some glazing putty over these spots as you would anything else, but applied a small amount of rub and buff after sanding down the spot putty. Fortunately they come in pretty much every metallic color you'd hope for. While rub and buff silver leaf comes out slightly brighter/lighter than standard aluminum cold cast, it blends it quite well, especially after a little bit of weathering you can't even tell. I haven't tried this of course over a blaster/weapon prop but I imagine it can work all the same
What I find interesting is that I've done a few cold-cast pieces myself, but I've always mixed the powder into the resin on top of dusting the mold. Maybe it has different finishing results, but that eliminated the concern for removing the top layer from over-sanding and I can go at it with the polish quite nicely.
Thanks for the vids! I need to get more learned up for mold making...
Thanks for the info! I've seen a few other cold cast projects that also mitigated the sanding issue by adding more of the metal powder to the resin mix. They used a 1:1:1 ratio of powder, Part A and Part B when mixing the resin.
Dude, thank you for these videos! This all seems a bit intimidating, but man, your videos make casting/molding something I can do! YAY!
Hey Bill, thanks for the 101's. I'm not (yet) ready to make my own props, nor have I bought any of them, but it's a lot fun and inspiration to watch your videos.
Requesting more full builds.
I really enjoyed your casting & molding series thanks for sharing
You're welcome!
Love your stuff Bill.
np mate you are extremely informative and you talk to your audience not down to them and that's HUGE. Anyways keep on with great vids.
May the Force Be With You Always
You Sir just got a new subscriber. Excellent video and I like the way you talk, very understandable.
Thanks so much! We're super excited to have you!
I like the way you talk Bill. Keep it up! TMS sent me.
It's a bit more expensive but I would add an extra step to the cold casting: After covering the inside of the mold with metallic powder, mix 1 part A for 1 part B for one part metal powder (in volume) + some black tint. A small amount, just enough to rotocast a fine film of resin all over the inside of the mold. That way you can clean up the seam and have more metallic material to buff whitout worrying too much about removing the fine metallic layer. I would add that buffing with the back of a metallic spoon after using the steel wool will add even more shine. My 2cents :)
Do the rotocast that way won't remove the powder?
Awesome stuff. I'm really digging this series, and it's been super-informative and helpful (along with the rest of the content you guys put out). Thanks :)
This is a great technique to make metallic silicone weapons like your mate did
Please do another FAQ - my questions would be -
A - how do you gauge where to cut your release line on a one part mold a
B- How and when should you split a model into parts for molding and how do you know when to use a one part or two part mold.
thank you very much, happy new years!
sweet
I love the link for steel wool. exactly what I have been looking for lol!
love the video!
for a nutshell description this was very informative.
Epic Work!
I will always love your videos
Awe, thanks! =D
Killer video Bill!
I know this is an old video, but I'm currently considering cold casting for a project and I have a couple of questions:
1) How heat resistant is a cold cast bronze object? I'm thinking of making a stamp for wax seals and I want to know if the temperature the sealing wax (221F or slightly lower) would deform or damage a cold cast stamp after 1 or 2 uses.
2) Could you pour cold cast bronze resin on a metal piece to get a negative of it? What about sulfur free clay? If so, is there a mold release product I should use?
cheers!
Hey man,
Great Video, what about cold casting Urethane Rubber? Have you done this before?
Should the same techniques be used for buffing it up?
Im just wondering if a wire wool would take the coating off quicker on a urethane rubber piece
Just a question, how would you mold a small piece that has a hole through it, so you can keep casting from going in? Thanks
Is it really worth it to put the extra metallic powder in the resin? Wouldn't it be better to save it? I'm not sure if powders are expensive or not
Same technique works for uncured polymer clay only you add the metallic powder ( I use PearlEx) with a finger tip. I'd be interested to try the "dusting" technique and see what happens. Would have to do polishing before curing I think, though, which could be a bit more complicated.
You know the way that you say Bill Duran at the outset of each video sounds a lot like you're saying "Builder-Ann". I love the videos, Thanks
Also, IF you were really careful and depending upon the piece, you could use a large straw carefully cut in half, lengthwise and slowly drizzle some of the resin down into the lowest point of the mold as a starting point. Then, once you have enough down inside, you can continue without the straw. Just be careful when both inserting and removing the straw half. you may also want to have something to temporarily hold the straw in place so that it is not touching the walls of your mold as well.
Just a few thoughts.
Amazing!!! Thank you. Any suggestions to create a super shiny black finish?
A friend of mine tried this technique recently that seemed to work really well: fb.watch/35Ky7nlOHy/
@@punishedprops Wow, thank you, i will have to try it. looking to do a shiny black futuristic looking thing.
Love this channel
This is awesome. Have you done a similar technique with glow in the dark powder? I'm going to be using some for a cosplay coming up - no casting involved, though, just some 3D printing.
Kay, that explains my previous failures, but my next project.... I'm going to replicate my previous failures.
I bought a mystery box from Kult of Athena a little while ago, guaranteed ten sabers and "military swords" for $120, couldn't pass up the deal. In it were three copies of same confederate officer's sword. Now I don't need three identical copies hanging around, especially not of CSA swords. They are pretty, so the one in the best shape is hanging above my fireplace on the mantle. The worst one will be restoration practice. The third is getting taken apart so that I can make it my own. I'm thinking of a disk shaped guard made of thick copper and a handle made from a zebra bone. Since the interior of a bone is porous and friable, it'll need to be cleaned out and I'll fill it with a 1-1 mix of casting resin and bronze or iron powder to not only ensure a custom fit to the tang, but also add weight to the handle to balance the blade.
Cool project!
I love that your watching harrison's live stream in the background LOL saw my name pop up a few times ;)
Will you be doing a video on ray's blaster later on? Because right after the movie came out I was thinking about making it this summer
Would I be able to mix the powder and the resin before pouring the resin instead of dusting the mold?
This is cool. I have to try this sometime.
can you bring it to a mirror-like shine with a big buffing wheel on a bench grinder or is the metal layer too thin for that?
Cool! well.. will epoxy resin work as well? and if i top coat on something with the mixture, will the powder get down n won't give much metallic shine after polishing?
:( ?
where do you get your metal powders at? I've gotten some silver pearlized powder that i used in one of my recent casts but it didn't come out like i thought it would.
OoohShiney! Im a big hearthstone fan so this video caught my eye in the feed directly. Just curious how you would solve the issue with getting the glyph swirl to glow?
I've been thinking that it might be possible to embedd an EL sheet cut to the spirals shape in the casting.
www.adafruit.com/products/625
Very educational as usual, keep it up! :D
Dude you are AWESOME
Hey Bill, I am making a set of scales for a friend using cold casting but his intent is to use the scales from a show and I'm worried ware and tear might slowly take off the thin layer of brass. Any recommendations on lasting sealers? I am more worried about scuffs than dulling the finish. Thanks!
Have you found any good sealers for cold casting ?
quick question bill were do you get your mixing containers from?
Can you use Smooth-on 65D with the Metallic powders? I want to use it by doing a rotacasting Thanks.
I think so! If you're ever unsure you can always reach out to Smooth-On customer service. They do a really great job helping folks find the best way to use their products.
@@punishedprops Thank you for the advice.
This is so cool! the effect you achieve is awesome. I was thinking that you could use EL wire to make it glow?
*****
Cool! Good luck :).
I'm still in awe with that hearthstone piece... I want it so bad haha
How? Just.. how? The lines are so precise on that master.
Got any tips on how I can make my own?
Gah! Should've known it was 3D printed. It's too perfect haha
could you do a video like this except using stone powder to make a polystone?
Does anyone know the difference between cold metal casting with Smoothon 300 vs 325. I've seen tutorials and videos of people using both, and both of them you end up tinting black. I cant seem to find if there is much of a difference between using either? Some insight would be awesome.
awesome, and thanks for the help. I just cast some aluminum/brass without any tint, so that I could see the comparison with when i get it.
Each video of this series Of molding & casting is so nice, it will be your fault if I will spend my money to see some of my 3D printed object is cast in, and this metallic technic is fantastic!
Yea i just need to find where buy everything in UK and find a bit of time from my project, i really try it
Awesome, man! Thanks so much!
As someone that's done a lot of metal casting, the hearthstone piece doesn't really cut it. It still looks like plastic, it just doesn't have the right reflectivity.
how did u made that molds in which u versed the resin ? is there a tutorial ? and what r the materials u used for that
Hey, random question and random gratitude. Thanks for taking the time to reply to comments on old videos. Very cool of you. Now question time: Have you ever experimented with multiple metal powders in a single cold cast mold? For instance is it possible to brush on the powder so you can have brass in one part and copper in another? could you mix the powder with a bit of resin or water and make a paint you can apply (and let it dry before adding the backing resin) or just apply the powder with a brush? I haven't started experimenting yet but thought it would made sense to see what you may have tried before I go full on mad scientist.
That is definitely possible, but super tedious. I've never done it successfully, but I also haven't put much effort into it. I have no idea bout your "metal resin paint" idea either. Worth trying though! I do know you can apply the powder by itself using a brush.
thanks bill, I'll let you know how it goes... gulp
Does cold casting only work for one part molds and projects? I was thinking of cold casting some potential D&D coins that were gold. Also, Happy New Year!
You can do multi part molds, just make sure your seams are super clean. You can't sand the seams smooth without damaging the cold cast finish.
sorcery!
+William Jakespeare found you
Ayyy jake wazzap! I didn't know you watched Bill Doran!
+Bill Doran Your kooky wizardy will never tempt me!
+Finley Clark He's really helped me refine my skills!
+Bill Doran I F----ING KNEW IT!
How about casting foam, does it work well or should I not bother haha
Are you selling any castings from your Rey's blaster mold? I'd be interested :)
I need help to make a half face mask. Covering left side of my face end visor over the left eye. Any ideas?
can you do a video how to paint rust?
I have to imagine that the steel wool / polish technique would work well with those metal-infused 3D printer filaments, yeah?
Hi,
really enjoy your videos. I've found out about you through the Draw With Jazza collaboration and started binge watching all of your videos.
I want to propose to my girlfriend and I thought of making a custon ring for her. I already gave her one made out of wooden veneer. Now my idea is to make a 3D model let it print (I don't have a printer) and create a mold out of it. I would like the ring to be golden so I thought of using clear resin an mix it with gold dust.
Can you tell me if the ring would be durable enough to wear it every day for a long time without looking badly torn up?
If you read till here thanks for your time and keep up the great work.
Punished Props thanks for the quick response. The big problem is that I don't have enough space to really work secretly on something like that with molten metal and everything. Maybe I can find a workshop that I can rent in my area. But your input really helped a lot. If the ring comes into existence one day I will let you know, but first I need to make a lot more research.
i love it
Ha, I spy one of VolpinProps' streams on the monitor in the background - it's UA-camCeption!
check out MetalRub it's good for this on finishing, it's fine metal dust and accents in a fine resin, for those hard to reach places in small tight groves you can't sand
+Nomad 087 Nice! Thanks for the tip!
Where can I buy the resin?
Smooth-On has a great website as well as Reynolds AM.
After a few months I finally made the mold and am ready for cold casting. I’m just wondering, what happens if I don’t tint it black? Is it that big of a difference?
okay thats really bloody cool chin beard
Hey. Your videos are great! Thank you. Hope you could help us. We will like to pay someone to make metal copies of a small emblem we own. Could you help us?
Thanks
Thanks so much for watching! Thanks for your interest, but Punished Props is not currently taking on any new commission clients. Thank you for your understanding!
sadly, ordering stuff from america is too expensive for us scandis. Getting materials to make shit here can be difficult.
nice!
I think your name should be Dinkens. Let me know what you think.
2:43 tosty
Just a question, how would you mold a small piece that has a hole through it, so you can keep casting from going in? Thanks
You can plug the hole with clay! Then you remove the clay for the second part of the mold and you'll be able to cast the whole piece with a hole!