Toyota Tundra 5.7 Belt Tensioner Pulley Replacement
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- Опубліковано 3 сер 2024
- Fixing a chirping belt with a belt tensioner change on a 5.7 Tundra and saving $300.
Change your belt at the same time if it has been a while since the last belt change. The part costs about $50, but the service costs about $300+ at a repair shop.
New Pulleys:
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How to remove your engine belt: • Toyota Tundra 5.7 Serp...
Timecodes:
0:00 - Tools Needed
0:18 - Engine Belt Removal
1:15 - Tensioner Removal
1:54 - Tensioner Location and Hardware
2:08 - Engine Belt Routing
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Advanced Auto Parts: advanceautoparts.rt8x.net/P0E06j
Amazon: amzn.to/3o8YEoi
This guy did a good job explaining and telling you exactly what you needed.
FYI -- for my 2011 Tundra SR5 5.7L, the 4 mm Allen key was a good fit for the hole to hold the belt tensioner back. Thanks for the great video! It helped me fix the squeak.
Glad to hear! And thanks for the tip!
THANK YOU SO MUCH for putting the size tools needed at the start of the video and keeping it super simple and showing bolts holes etc PERFECT REPAIR VIDEOOOOOO THANK YOUUUU
Thanks for the feedback! I'll try to remember to do that on the rest of my videos in the future. Good luck with the job!
Awesome video , I just did this on a 2014. You can use a T40 to avoid stripping the 6mm Allen screw. I was able to complete this in about 30 mins with no issues at all. Very surprising to me. Put a little wd40 or pb blaster on that screw before. Also use a breaker bar or pipe to get leverage and it will be a piece of cake. Glad I got this done with no more squeaking
A 3 minute video. You the real MVP. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks! I try to keep it to the point. No need to talk about my life story
Thanks for the video. I'm getting ready to replace my generator on my 03 Tundra.229000 miles. After watching your video I'm going to do the Tensioner pully.
It’d be a good time to do it! Consider doing the idler pulley and belt at the same time. The idler pulley takes less than 5 minutes
You can replace just the pulley with bearing in it since it’s usually the bearing that goes out to save some money. The bolt to remove pulley is LEFT hand thread- right turn to loosen.
Thanks for the tip - I wish I kept that old one now to take it apart and have a look
@@TheIceColdGarage sure thing. I’d post a pic of part if I knew how but also I don’t think it’s possible or coded to that in a reply
this is actually not nearly as terrible as people made it out to be. Its not a simple swap but not as nightmarish as people claim. Im guessing it was a matter of them not having the right tools for the job
im having a nightmarish time replacing mine. 17hrs later still not out because the 6mm bolt stripped - no room to work, no room to drill out for easy out.. removed fan, shroud, and still no luck.. only solution i think is to remove the rad, and the condenser coil. Very bad day for me on this cheap little belt tensioner. Grrrrrr.. This guy in this video got lucky.
Great job. Will be changing mine soon.
My mechanic just did this as a part of another job. I WAS going to do myself. My tensioner special bolt, M8 50mm hex sheared off. They had to extract the broken bolt. Major Pain. Good thing I dodged a bullet. These parts are low to the ground and can get wet. I would HIGHLY Recommend people to check that bolt and when installing a new tensioner and idler pulley (Dayco/OEM) I would put a dab of oil or anti-sieze on that 'special' M8 50mm tensioner and bolt threads.
Stripped mine too. E-"Special"ly designed to fail bolt.
Great and helpful video! You're the man of the day! Thanks.
Glad it helped!
Ty, my day off project! Now @ 2017 with 235k and this is the 1st replacement failed part. Try that GMC,FORD,AND DODGE coming from experience lol
Especially in just 5 or 6 years! Good luck with it!
Torque specs when putting it all back?
Thks for the video. What brand of belt tensioner you choose?
No problem. It was a Gates pulley.
The squeak I had is still there so I’ll be changing the idler pulley next. At 240k miles I figure it won’t hurt to add a couple new parts in either way.
Hey all, what is the part number of the bolt you had to replace… I seen it coming
Question, when the Allen bolt gets stripped, how did you get it out ? Did you take the fan out in order to have a better view and grip?
I was pretty lucky. I gave up on a 3/8 drive and just used an Allen key. It took a lot of slow force at just the right angle but it still had enough of a grip to get it loose. I was about to take that fan off though. Stripping that bolt seems to be a common problem
After watching this video I sprayed mine with PB Blaster. Then I used 6mm hex bit in socket making sure it was fully seated into the bolt.
Smart move! Hope it went well
If your 6mm hex bolt is rusted and stripped and you can't get it out, use a T40 torx bit instead. The torx bit bites into the sides of the bolt head and prevents it from slipping. Put pressure on it and you'll eventually hear a snap and the bolt will come loose. Much easier than having to pull the radiator out. Don't forget to order a replacement bolt. Hope this helps someone.
@darkmatterm4a1 Was about to abandon the whole operation. The T40 saved my ass.
Were you able to get the Allen bolt from Toyota or need to go to a hardware store?
I got it from Toyota and had it for pick up at the dealer. They have updated the part number from the original part - I was able to find it on a forum.
I avoided a hardware store just because I wasn’t in a rush and figured I could get the right thing from Toyota the first time.
@@TheIceColdGarage thanks! Mine just stripped last night so I have one on order with Toyota as well.
Sorry to hear it. It set me back a couple days but I was just glad I got it out
@@TheIceColdGarage yeah I'm going to attempt to remove it this weekend when I have time, going to try the torx bit route.
If you think this is a PITA, try changing a Tundra starter.
How do I replace a V belt
It’s not too bad. Here’s a video for it. You’ll just need a breaker bar and an Allen key to hold the tensioner in place.
ua-cam.com/video/7TNjk7utr4Q/v-deo.html