Working with this EGO batteries, a CC-CV power supply is always a must. I've decided to get a cheap one with a 30V-10A rating for about $50 and it has been a god sent. Great video as always. Clear and concise explanation throughout. Thank you.
I UA-cam search my ego battery charger turning on and off and not charging battery. I watched this video then seen your push battery button in for ten seconds to reset battery comment and I did that and it worked the battery charges now. The home depot I bought my ego leaf blower from a few yrs back don't sell the ego brand anymore. Ace hardware is the only store near by that carries ego and they said the battery's bad and tried selling me a new battery no thanks, those batteries aren't cheap.
No they are not cheap, that is the only reason I started looking into the repair of these. When my very first one failed and it was a board issue I tried to learn and share as much as possible. I wish all repairs was as easy as a reset by holding the button 10 secs. Unfortunately it is not the case. Glad yours is working again. BTW: Lowe's carries the EGO brand now, I assume you are not really close to one of those either....
@ThriftyToolShed I just found this video after one of my 2.5aH batteries didn't want to power my leaf blower and didn't want to charge. I was thinking maybe a bad cell, but tried this reset just in case, and seems to be working again! Maybe I'll get a little more out it! Thanks for the video and advice!!
I'M REPOSTING THIS FROM ONE YEAR AGO. IT SURE DID THE TRICK FOR ME "THE BANG TRICK WORKED .SO glad I saw the comments about banging the battery from about a foot off the ground and dropping it. IT WORKED I had THREE bad batteries. ALL THREE have been working GREAT since May and I recharge and use the OFTEN. HOLY GUACAMOLE. Those three bad ones were here for over a year. I bought two news ones for 200 bucks a piece but something told me NOT to throw those bad ones out. THREE bad batteries now working PERFECTLY for five months with CONSTANT charging. I have the lawn mower, leaf blower and snow blower and I use the blower daily and the lawn mower once per week. HUGE area. SO glad I was the comments about BANGING the batteries. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU"
Great video and tons of good technical information that we could use. I have bought a used 7.5 AH battery with the lawn mower. I did not pay a whole lot for it. I believe it is a first generation battery pack. From the start, It was just blinking red. So I hook up 2.5 AH battery to it. But, on the fast charger, it would go from 25% to 100% right away. Then I used two other Ego 2.5 AH battery to boost it, back to back, for much of the morning to early afternoon. The voltage slowly creeping up. I can get the voltage up to 55.7 V on the 7.5 AH battery. I put it on the lawn mower, get it to start, then put it right back on the fast charger. It still the same, goes from 25% to 100% in seconds. I did it twice, like one of the video here "Ego battery hack" suggests. I can mow for like few minutes, put it back on the charger, still the same thing. Last night, I left the battery pack on the charger for the whole night. This morning, I checked the voltage, still like 55.7 V. So the cells are holding the voltage but I could not run the battery on the mower for very long as it is not cycling through the lights, like from red, orange then to green cycling with each of the green bar on the fast charger. What do you think is wrong with this battery? Is it like some of the post I have read: it could be related to corroded terminals? I have some contact cleaner I bought from Amazon. Should I just open it up and spray down the contact points? What precautions I should take so I won't get hurt from the high voltage? I could open up the battery pack and take pictures and post it.
I do have a few videos about corrosion and bad connections on the EGO packs that I shared. I have fixed 2 all together that was a bad connection due to corrosion. I also had some with bad cells. Never do more than you feel comfortable with, but you could check all cells inside and make sure they are balanced and when under load is it some cells groups that pull down lower than others and then check the connections on board and maybe try the contact cleaner. If all that checks well then it is a possiblity the problem is in the BMS board itself.
My 7.5aH pack just started doing the same thing. It's about 2 years old and it's the old style. I killed it mowing my yard and when I put it on the fast charger it just went right to 100%. Then after it cooled down a bit (15 min or so) it works just like yours did on the fast charger. I'd bet I've got a cell taking a crap just like yours and a little time to let it build back up brought it back to life. Regardless, Ego is getting a call for a new battery under warranty.
Oh, I was looking at my new 56 Volt 5.0 Ah EGO battery, and I thought of you and this Channel. I was thinking, that Man brave to crack one of these open! 50 freaking screws, and all that ‘wizardly’ going on inside! Ryobi 40 Volt held together with like 4 screws!? 😂 Love these repair videos. Hope I NEVER have to try and repair my own! 😆 Best 👍✌
I use a 42" walk-behind gas DR mower to do most of my lawn mowing, and I purchased a 7.5 AH EGO mower in May 2022 to do touchup mowing. The EGO mower has between 10 and 15 total hours of use, and the battery started flashing red and cutting out this summer. I've used it about 6 times this summer, and each time the red cutout became more frequent until now it immediately cuts out and won't run the mower at all. Going to try to contact EGO today and figure out what to do.
The mower and battery have been sitting idle in a cool Morton building for about a week with the battery fully charged. I just ran the mower about a minute and it now seems to work fine. We have had some hot weeks this summer with temperatures in the upper 80s to upper 90s. The battery cutout problems I've been having may be related to overheating. Maybe on the hotter days I just need to push the mower and not add the extra load of self propelled.
So usually flashing red is an under voltage condition and not temperature related. I believe the newer packs are solid red for temperature issue and older packs are orange/yellow. So it could be a cell (or cell group) that is going bad and reduced in capacity and that is possibly why flashing red without much run time. I would contact EGO about the pack for sure. If EGO sends out a replacement and tells you to keep/recycle the old pack you can either test the cells, make sure all the connectors are plugged in well on the board and at the minimum sell it on eBay as a broken pack. People still pay good money for the broken ones. It is absolutely some growing pains with the lithium power equipment and I could see that from years of working on things. That is why I try hard to share as we learn about these as much as possible. It is No how-to manual. No schematics. No real place to take these as we did with small engine shops. I don't wont these to be throw away after a few years. Best of luck to ya!
I’m posting this comment looking for guidance. My Jan 2021 7.5ah Ego battery measures 47v with the cover off between the black and red wires. Placed on an Ego rapid charger it goes to all green in seconds on both the charger and on the battery’s multi-light charge indicator. Placed on my Ego leaf blower the battery indicates one lit green light segment, blows for a few seconds then turns off, flashing red. I purchased this on eBay as a non-working, but fairly new battery. The connectors are generously and solidly covered in white silicone caulk. This seems to be a more recent improvement. The board is covered. The cells do not appear to have swollen. I just need direction as to where to dig in first given the conditions I’ve described. Again, this is a very recently manufactured battery. The silicone is so solidly in place that I only want to start with the most likely repair. Lastly, there are two wires, one top, one bottom, that go between the underside of the case and the battery pack, I assume for grounding out static electricity. I don’t know if I can snip these wires and repair/not repair them since I need them out of the way in order to fully open up the pack.
My very first EGO pack repair video shows the grey silicone potting being removed as well as some white over the 3 JST style connectors on the board. I don't know if this has changed or not as I have not worked on any this new. I am not sure which 2 wires you are referring to either. The 3 connectors is all I know of from the board to the pack halves. You have to remove potting as shown in my first repair video before removing the connections. Only going by experience, I would say it sound like some bad cells. Seems like maybe most or at least some cells are close to fully charged and charger shows green as some may already be as charged as can get safely. Atleast one if not more cell clusters must be dropping off very quickly to show low cut out voltage level when used so it's possible that's why it starts blinking red and why it was sold as non working. Have to go around checking cells as I mentioned in some other repair videos. Best of luck to ya!
Hi, My lawn mower's battery stop working recently. when I charge it. The light on top of the battery shows "green; red; orange". after few cycle of the light shows, the charge stop working. is there anyone know what's that mean? how to fix the problem? Thanks a lot!
Hi, The lights cycling through the colors is normal, the stopping of the cycle obviously is not. What is the battery showing when it shuts down or when you press the fuel gauge button?
@@ThriftyToolShed Hi, thanks a lot. I checked the cells and measure the voltage one by one and found one cell's voltage was only 0.42V, I charged this cell to 3.6V and used my ego charge to charge the whole battery, same problem. Now when I push the button on top of the battery, it doesn't show any thing.
@@andrewche9803 Good job finding the low cell. As far as the fuel gauge not lighting up, make sure the plugs are plugged in well to the connectors on the BMS board. If it is not that it is more than likely an issue with the DC-DC converter part of the circuit. If the board was still connected while charging up the low cell I guess some issue with the BMS board could arise.
I have a newer battery I think that actually has the five LED lights. I had every issue with it but someone in another video mentioned dropping it. I thought he was absolutely trolling. I said I have nothing to lose because I tried everything besides opening it up which I don’t wanna do. I dropped it off my couch and it’s been working fine ever since🤣🤣🤣
Yeah, I have a repair video on the blinking orange and it was a loose connection inside causing it. I shared the information and how I could touch around the wires and it would start working then go back to fault. Many viewers commented once they realized it was a loose connection they would just drop it and start working lol. That's cool and maybe many of them will get lucky, but that bad connection will show back up more than likely. Best of luck and thanks for sharing!
About 40 years ago I purchased a True Value gas lawn mower for less than $100 that lasted nearly 25 years until finally too many pieces broke off. But the engine still worked. Last year I paid many times that amount for an EGO mower with an expensive battery that will likely fail permanently one month after its warranty runs out. EGO battery documentation says it will overheat and shut down. And then you must let it cool down for extended periods of time. How many times does that have to happen before EGO admits that their batteries are undersized or defective? How can one keep their lawn mowed if the mower has to sit idle for long periods of time while the battery is cooling down? Maybe put the battery in the refrigerator to speed things up?
if you have the gray, stand up quick charger, that charger has fans that help cool the battery when charging. Do not place in the fridge as you risk creating condensation conditions inside the battery pack housing. Another way to cool down a battery is to place it in front of a small fan to help evacuate the heat from w/in the battery. My battatry just started showing constant overheat conditions even after being inside the house over night. I have 12 days left on my 3yr battery warranty.
Thanks for making these videos. I've got a 1st gen 7.5AH 56V Ego Battery. The button shows solid green, then blinking red. Voltmeter has red 48Vs in the contacts and wiring. I'm kind of stumped. A lot of the parts are still in silicon so I may need to do some digging if it's the fuse or not. Any advice?
Well that is one of the problems I have seen a few of and I have not figured outta exactly. It is not a very common failure, but it is odd because the BMS shows green like it is testing good and then switched to blinking what seems to be an error code. I believe it is a microcontroller issue or at least an issue with a watchdog or some other communications protocol between the 2 microcontrollers because of how it errors. I tested every test point on one of these and could not find much discrepancy at all in the bad one when compared to the working board. I have many videos on other failures as we learn more about them, but usually this one is an unknown of exactly what causes it. I am of course only guessing about the microcontroller... Wish you the best of luck with ours and thanks for your comment!
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks for the response! I hope there is a fix or replacing a microcontroller will work. I keep thinking it's the charger. Thanks again for the helpful teardowns
@@loonigoonie If we did take time to try to get the program out of the microcontroller or a good working one then we could possibly replace the microcontroller. I have not taken the time to try this yet. It's not the most common issue so I don't know how much time it's worth.
Hi, interested to know if the boosted cells held up or did they self discharge again?. Is the pack still working. Thanks for your excellent video's by the way
Hi, I have had luck with a few that had a more Minor unbalanced set of cells. For the most part the pack will lose capacity as the cells are not matched well any longer. I have a couple of 5Ah that run like they are more like 3-4Ah. (One cell or more is lower in capacity so it shuts down the rest prematurely) The other repairs are from packs with cells so far out that I had to replace them. Sometimes it's all cells and sometimes if just 1or 2 cells that are bad and the rest all test well and are matched in capacity. I will go through and test capacities on all my spare cells and match up as close as possible like I mentioned in a video called " Lithium Battery FAQ#1" Thanks so much for your kind comment!
Thanks for the great info! I wanted to ask...after you've removed the silicone potting from the BMS, what are you using to protect the board again from water / heat...physical shock? Your tutorials helped me get a 7.5ah $80 battery off eBay working again, but now that I want to put it together, I'm nervous leaving it unprotected...
I have considered using a silicone potting to cover the board. I have several that I have repaired now and I have had zero issue leaving then uncovered. The main benefit is how easy it is to pop the end cap off and use it to test another pack by going around the TP B1-B14 so for me the benefit of using them for testing out weighs the risk of leaving it uncovered. At first I was a little bit concerned and thought I might should recover it, but I have seen corrosion get into the connectors of a factory sealed board from one pack that got wet. The cells end caps and balancing leads were corroded bad as well. My thoughts after that is just simply keep all my pack away from any moisture if possible. These packs will not hold up if run in damp areas alot even if covered. If you feel like yours can't avoid such wet or damp then you may want to cover the board and connectors.
have you looked into the (rigid/firm) pink electrically stable foam that many circuit boards get packed in. To my understanding, the pink foam resists building up static. You could find that foam, cut it to shape and have that act as a barrier to protect the pcb when the pack is fully assembled. Hopefully, you naturally prevent the battery pack from water/rain.
Just a suggestion. I would just re-silicone with pour on mix for creating silicone molds which can be relatively cheap to buy and used of other projects. It will conform to the controller unit giving you full coverage and conform to the space its poured into. When it dries, you'll be able to easily peel or lift off and put back as it will be a perfect sealed fit everytime. Working Kinda like a new gasket.
I can find plenty of info on blinking batteries, but my *charger* is blinking red and green and won't function. I can't find anything about that anywhere...
hi, I only have one charger repair video and it was a power supply related issue on the Rapid charger. Do you know its the charger for sure? Will the pack charge on another charger or are you having multiple pack giving issue with the same charger?
That's good. I have had more issues with the BMS on the EGO platform so far with the ones I received as non-working. Kinda like the first EGO repair video about 6 years ago and of course the board issues can damage cells also. Cells are the majority of pack issues for most branded packs for me as well, but not even close to 99%.
These are 18650 Li-Ion cells and approx. 2.6Vmin - 4.2Vmax range. So many do call these 3.6 or 3.7V nominal cells. I usually get my cells from 18650batterystore.com.
I want to charge my ego battery with solar, do you think using a step up inverter at 58v applied to the positive and negative terminals in the battery would work? Or at least not fry the battery? Thanks in advance! You seem like you know more about hacking these things than anyone else haha
Even though it's possible to do as you mentioned, it's better to allow solar utilizing an inverter with a EGO charger if possible. The reason is obviously due to the factory charger and BMS working together making sure the charging is proper and cells are balanced. If in a tough spot and you ever need to charge a pack with only solar then it is possible with the DC-DC converter as long as you have one with Constant Voltage and Constant Current! Make sure the voltage is set no higher than 58V and current I typically would not set above 1 or 2 amps max. So at least it is controlled, even though not balance monitoring. Don't forget it's best to still monitor all cells to make sure they are staying well balanced while charging though. Thanks for your comment.
Are concerned about EGO battery quality now that they moved to Lowe's? Also, I heard that using the rapid charger is bad for the batteries. You seem to use it a lot, what do you think?
I personally do not believe Lowes will affect the quality at all. I would think the QC of EGO would build to their own internal specs and standards regardless if it's HD, Lowes, ACE or even another authorized retailer selling them. As far as the rapid charger, I will agree, slower is almost always better. I have not researched or tested enough to say for sure but I believe with all the cooling on the rapid charger it is fine. I trust it. As I showed in the video on the rapid charger, it has 2 fans for cooling. One is dedicated for the pack cooling. I do use both the rapid and the standard charger. I have not noticed any issues with the rapid charger versus the standard. As we know heat is the main killer of cells. I am glad EGO has great temperature monitoring and the (ARC) cooling air flow design as well as the phase change sleeves for using latent heat absorbtion if needed. Even though these packs have some issues, they are light years ahead of the problematic Ryobi 40V packs and all the others as well. I have always thought the cooling design is the key. Tesla cells seem to do so well with the liquid cooling and that's very impressive. As far as equipment, I don't know of any other manufacturers that do as well with cooling as EGO arc lithium design. Hopefully solid state packs will be here in the next 5-7 years and we want have the same issues with the finiky Li-ion, voltage too high, voltage to low, temp too high, temp too low. Lol.... Until then they are still pretty awesome!
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks for responding! I have seen a video of a gardener who said they have seen more battery failures over the last year. Since you take these apart, do you think the quality of the new generations of Ego batteries are still high, getting better?
Well, I can not say for sure. I do not own any new generation packs still. I got so involved in trying to figure out some of the issues with the older gens that now I have many repaired packs. I was hoping the new gen packs would be better and alot of the known issues would be resolved. I still hope so, but I have been asked questions about the new gen packs alot and unfortunately I have to tell them I just don't know yet. Seems they are having some failures for sure. I do like the idea of the fuel gauge though. Heres to hoping it is a improvement and not a worse design.
So the issue that I have is I have a newer generation battery 5 amp that came with the leaf blower I think it was a 650 CFM model and the issue I have is when I put it on the charger it will blink one two three and then start flashing red it won't start the lawn mower and it won't start the leaf blower and it will not charge I'm thinking something is wrong with one of the cells I also have an older two and a half amp gen 1 battery from a weed eater that just flashes orange immediately so now I only have one seven and a half amp New Gen battery and it has to suffice for the leaf blower and mower even though Ego claims all batteries are interchangeable with all of their products a seven and a half amp battery will not fit on a weed eater
The 5ah issue may be the BMS board. I have a recent video troubleshooting the 3rd gen BMS board. It had a similar issue, unfortunately it was not repairable. but I learned a few things. The 2.5ah blinking orange thinks it's a thermal issue blinking orange. Have you tried cleaning the battery terminal connections? If not that it could be a bad connection/corrosion on the connector of the board or a bad Thermistor. Also, I did not even realize the 7.5ah will not fit some string trimmers. I thought all packs would fit all tools, even though admittedly the 7.5 would be very heavy on the weed Wacker.
Similar issue on mine. Between B5 and B6, voltage low. Shows 0.118v. Traced B5 and B6 to the cells. I am not clear on the video, do you connect + of the charger to one of connection point (e.g B5) and negative to the other (B6)? I doubt this is right, but want to make sure.
When measuring I typically put my COM or Black lead on the negative or zero voltage point and work my way around with my Test or Red lead to easily see the voltage step up, like B1 showing 4V then B2 showing 8V etc. All the way around to full voltage at the pack Positive terminal.
I have a 5 AH first generation battery. Last week was cutting the lawn with it fine. Then when I died, I went to charge it and a constant red light came on the battery. On the charger, it blinks red like in this video. Now the battery will not charge. Any thoughts what I should be looking at or is it just too old and I should get another?
What about if you try and charge it and it lights up green like it’s charged but then I put it in my leaf blower and it runs for two or three seconds and cuts off and starts flashing white?
I have never seen the lights flash white myself, but sometimes when the blower only runs a few seconds and shuts down the blower is not communicating to the D-terminal of the pack. So check/clean the contacts and try it. Hopefully it's not a BMS board issue. The other reason for showing green like charged and then shutting down early is sometimes a bad cell in the pack dropping below the low voltage cutoff as soon as a load is applied. That usually lights up red on the pack though.
I have a 2.5 AH that constantly blinks green. It's not hot or cold, it's room temperature. I checked the voltage and it's 52 volts. I plug it into the charger and the green light quits blinking, but the red light on the charger lights up immediately and won't charge. Can that be fixed? If so, how? Thanks in advance.
My very first repair video was on the blinking green. Mine was a shorted transistor on the BMS and I shared all I found with that repair! Best of luck to ya!
Hi, would you ever take a look at a battery? I have a gen 3 that will flash green then red on the charger for quite a while and then will finally show fully charged. It will run my blower for about 5 minutes and then die. I would like to get it repaired.
I wish I had the time. I get asked this alot. I just try to take time to share what I found and learned from similar repairs. Hopefully it helps someone else. I could not fix them all even if I wanted to! As far as your pack goes, I do not have the 3rd gen pack to know for sure. I would think it does usually flash green then red while charging? Also if it's only a 2.5ah it may only run 5-7mins in a blower? The blower eats up the battery more than any tool I have! Just a thought, obviously you are seeing something different from when it was new....
I believe you are asking about the UNI-T benchtop variable power supply. It has Constant Voltage and Constant Current control. I believe it's obsolete now but it's many available. I would try to find a 0-60V model. They are harder to find. 0-30V are easier to find. Example 0-30V amzn.to/3HAO9F7 Example 0-60V amzn.to/3BDV8tg
I have a 2.5 that had one cell at near zero, so I replaced it. I made sure the new cell was at the same voltage as the rest, but when I press the button, the battery first indicates green, then starts flashing orange. I checked voltage and the battery is at 55v.
If all cells are balanced like you said and it does this it's usually the BMS. I have had a few this now and could not find the issue with the BMS, but replacing the BMS with another did fix it. Usually mine are green then flash red, mine are 2nd generation with the old style fuel gauge. The newer ones may be different.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks for the prompt reply. I was going to pillage the board from my 2.0 pack, but apparently they must be different versions because the connectors are different like you mentioned in your vid.
@@VaporheadATC Yes, atleast the 2 that I have called Gen1 and Gen2 due to the connector difference and as far as the newest version with the fuel gauge, it is most likely different as well.
How would one go about charging an individual 18650 without a proper bench power supply? Could I jump my Nitecore charger or use Skymax B6AC or Accucel 6? Make one from old adapter? (apprehensive) I've witnessed thermal runaway and am now paranoid, it has all but halted any of my work on batteries. Thanks in advance.
18650 are no joke for sure. I am always cautious when charging cells and yes I will only use a CC-CV control. I have not tied it jumping to a Nitecore charger, but it could work and it should be controlled well, just take a little longer since it is thinking it is charging 1 cell and you may have 2 in parallel or even 3 in parallel in a 7.5ah pack. I don't know the other chargers by the name you mentioned but if hobby chargers they would most likely be fine. Best of luck to ya! Thanks for your comment!
@@ThriftyToolShed I have two Nightcore chargers that will hold four cells each, and the other two I mentioned are both hobby charges that will charge from 1s to 6s. From the information you responded with, I feel safe trying to boost individual cells. Your clear and concise videos, professionalism and safety are unparalleled. It's gotten quite cold in my neck of the woods, I will keep you posted on the one I have. Thank you again for the valuable information you provide.
Ego 5ah battery...Im getting a random blinking red at all times. When I place it on charger it goes from 25% to 100% and won't charge. It won't run any of my equipment. I tested volts on the positive and negative on the pack from the outside and it reading 54-56 volts. Any ideas?
Most likely in the BMS. Checking connectors on the BMS connectors because it is one cause of this. I have had a few with bad BMS and a couple with corrosion on terminals at BMS causing it. Best of luck to ya!
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
I know longer but simpler way to fix this error. reason for the behavoir is inabiliny to charge all cells ballanced. Although every time you connect battery to charger - it is charging a bit before turn red light on. so if you will do it again and again - at some point it will start normally. I had this issue with 2.5 AH battery . I started with 42 v measured output. after ~25 charging attempts it got 48 v and start charging normally. (number of attempts depends on battery size and initial disballance)
That would be "another" reason that one might do this. Of course we mention the unbalanced cells a lot on this channel. This one as mentioned was balanced and we went through all that.
@Konstantin Gospodinov, Just want to say thank you so much bro!!! You save me so much in this way. Tried that way and just put an auto timer on/off loop relay and set it in 1/1 minute on/off, and just leave it alone for few hours, and then it charge the battery from 49v to 52v and since then it charge normal!!!
It is pretty awesome. Extremely responsive. I use one at work as well that is a little bit nicer model with adjustable handle, torque settings and 2 batteries. I thought about doing a quick review on it like I did the cheaper Skil and Hammerhead which is also good. I actually bought the dewalt tool only from a local flea market so I bought a cheap battery from eBay for it and it is absolutely great for what I have in it. I have about $38 in it.
Does anyone know when the BMS does its cell balancing thang? I'm looking at getting a BA5600T for a project and i'd like to extend cell life by not quite fully charging - maybe to 4v per cell, need to know a bit more about the BMS...
According to the Ego Battery Manual - "Depending on the battery charge, it will automatically perform a self-discharge operation after one month of storage. After this self-maintenance, the battery pack will enter sleep mode and maintain 30% of its charge capacity."
I have not had to work on a 40V Ryobi charger yet. I have some videos on the EGO fast charger and 2 other Ryobi charger that are 18V. I am currently working on another 18V Ryobi charger that has similar issue you described. I believe lighting or a surge from it come in on mine and it took out the switcher chip. I have had some with just blown fuses but most of the time they blow it is another reason for it.
I bought a charger that was supposedly known working and I pull the Ryobi 40v batteries every time I find them, I have a 5ah, a 4ah, both of which blink four green squares/lights, and two 2.6ah that seem to be flat dead. I've tried resetting the larger capacity ones via the rst contacts on the board and not had any luck with that or boosting from a known working battery. I'm not sure what the problem is as I watch tons of videos but that whole line seems to be very dodgy. Just my two cents.
Yes. I have been asked to do some videos on the 40V Ryobi packs and I mentioned that I never had alot of long term luck with them. So I did a video sharing a little about them and how they are sometimes good for cell harvesting but in the end I used to run my 40V Ryobi stuff with 2 of my 20V Makita or Milwaukee packs in series and I had no issues. The video kinda got some mixed comments. Some wanted to go further with showing some actual repair, some disliked my thoughts and think the 40V have been ok for them? Most people that I know have had similar luck as my experience, it's just a headache to keep them running, the BMS is too problematic. Overcomplicated and engineered for it to ever be reliable! I work on alot of packs, but basically just cell harvest the 40V Ryobi!
@@ThriftyToolShed well, if you ever need some to work on for a video I'd be more than happy to donate. I hit all of the hardware stores within 30 mi from my house that have battery dumps and have assembled quite the collection!
@@bradhabit2217 I check them often as well. I have not found many packs in the bins this year. I would find something almost every time I would go to the hardware store pre-Covid!
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in an Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have found with a repair as we learn together. I don't have a lot of time left. I hope you can find someone you know that likes to tinker and hopefully after watching the video can help you out. I wish you the best of luck with yours.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks a bunch. I'm currently down 2 batteries. Unfortunately, all the sparkies in my life are equally busy. I may eventually try to repair myself, but I just don't have all the necessary tools at my disposal.
Are you asking about aftermarket packs? I have a couple of videos on them. The first one I bought to learn about the BMS and if it works well with the EGO equipment. The second one the company sent me to review and see what we thought about it and I was at least surprise how well it works and how well the capacity test went. I still use mine and they work great, both of them do. Of course it is a lot of mixed reviews and some negative comments about the packs on the video, so I am sure quality control may be an issue to some degree. ua-cam.com/video/qtdeChmWXZE/v-deo.html
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
@@ThriftyToolShed thank you so much for responding. I'll probably end up buying a new lawn mower, but your video was awesome if I just had a little more electronics and experience. Thank you!
I hate this brand I buy a brand new leaf blower of this brand last month I charge the battery for a hour and a half but right when I first charge it it keep showing red blinking light but I put in my leaf blower it only work then sec and it stop and I keep pressing the start button it turn on for ten sec and stop I have to keep pressing the start button same thing again what a waist of time and money so sorry to be mean but EGO if you ever see this comment I want to say you brand really sucks so I went to buy a leaf blower that use gas it work perfectly never buy anything that use battery again YEAH 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
Thanks for sharing your experience. I will say as a avid user that this is rare, but I do understand that is not a good experience when that happens to you. Hate it happened to you, please don't give up on battery power due to one bad experience, but again I understand the disappointment!
Well, batteries do go bad, or as you say the bms could have a problem. But for sure it will probably rear its ugly head; the problem that is.I'd be interested to see what comes about. Thanks for the look, always enjoyable.
Working with this EGO batteries, a CC-CV power supply is always a must. I've decided to get a cheap one with a 30V-10A rating for about $50 and it has been a god sent. Great video as always. Clear and concise explanation throughout. Thank you.
How ironic, I just found one of these in my local Lowe's battery recycle bin.
Keep all the wonderful videos coming, thank you.
I called tech support with the same issue. They had me push in the battery button for ten seconds to reset it, then it worked like a champ.
Wish they all were that easy. Thanks for sharing!
I UA-cam search my ego battery charger turning on and off and not charging battery. I watched this video then seen your push battery button in for ten seconds to reset battery comment and I did that and it worked the battery charges now. The home depot I bought my ego leaf blower from a few yrs back don't sell the ego brand anymore. Ace hardware is the only store near by that carries ego and they said the battery's bad and tried selling me a new battery no thanks, those batteries aren't cheap.
No they are not cheap, that is the only reason I started looking into the repair of these. When my very first one failed and it was a board issue I tried to learn and share as much as possible. I wish all repairs was as easy as a reset by holding the button 10 secs. Unfortunately it is not the case. Glad yours is working again.
BTW:
Lowe's carries the EGO brand now, I assume you are not really close to one of those either....
@ThriftyToolShed I just found this video after one of my 2.5aH batteries didn't want to power my leaf blower and didn't want to charge. I was thinking maybe a bad cell, but tried this reset just in case, and seems to be working again! Maybe I'll get a little more out it! Thanks for the video and advice!!
I'M REPOSTING THIS FROM ONE YEAR AGO. IT SURE DID THE TRICK FOR ME
"THE BANG TRICK WORKED .SO glad I saw the comments about banging the battery from about a foot off the ground and dropping it. IT WORKED I had THREE bad batteries. ALL THREE have been working GREAT since May and I recharge and use the OFTEN. HOLY GUACAMOLE. Those three bad ones were here for over a year. I bought two news ones for 200 bucks a piece but something told me NOT to throw those bad ones out. THREE bad batteries now working PERFECTLY for five months with CONSTANT charging. I have the lawn mower, leaf blower and snow blower and I use the blower daily and the lawn mower once per week. HUGE area. SO glad I was the comments about BANGING the batteries. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU"
Great video and tons of good technical information that we could use.
I have bought a used 7.5 AH battery with the lawn mower. I did not pay a whole lot for it. I believe it is a first generation battery pack. From the start, It was just blinking red. So I hook up 2.5 AH battery to it. But, on the fast charger, it would go from 25% to 100% right away. Then I used two other Ego 2.5 AH battery to boost it, back to back, for much of the morning to early afternoon. The voltage slowly creeping up. I can get the voltage up to 55.7 V on the 7.5 AH battery. I put it on the lawn mower, get it to start, then put it right back on the fast charger. It still the same, goes from 25% to 100% in seconds. I did it twice, like one of the video here "Ego battery hack" suggests. I can mow for like few minutes, put it back on the charger, still the same thing. Last night, I left the battery pack on the charger for the whole night. This morning, I checked the voltage, still like 55.7 V. So the cells are holding the voltage but I could not run the battery on the mower for very long as it is not cycling through the lights, like from red, orange then to green cycling with each of the green bar on the fast charger. What do you think is wrong with this battery? Is it like some of the post I have read: it could be related to corroded terminals? I have some contact cleaner I bought from Amazon. Should I just open it up and spray down the contact points? What precautions I should take so I won't get hurt from the high voltage? I could open up the battery pack and take pictures and post it.
I do have a few videos about corrosion and bad connections on the EGO packs that I shared. I have fixed 2 all together that was a bad connection due to corrosion. I also had some with bad cells. Never do more than you feel comfortable with, but you could check all cells inside and make sure they are balanced and when under load is it some cells groups that pull down lower than others and then check the connections on board and maybe try the contact cleaner. If all that checks well then it is a possiblity the problem is in the BMS board itself.
Do sell BMS board?
I needs one 2.5Am
My 7.5aH pack just started doing the same thing. It's about 2 years old and it's the old style. I killed it mowing my yard and when I put it on the fast charger it just went right to 100%. Then after it cooled down a bit (15 min or so) it works just like yours did on the fast charger. I'd bet I've got a cell taking a crap just like yours and a little time to let it build back up brought it back to life. Regardless, Ego is getting a call for a new battery under warranty.
My EGO battery just passes three years warranty.
Oh, I was looking at my new 56 Volt 5.0 Ah EGO battery, and I thought of you and this Channel. I was thinking, that Man brave to crack one of these open! 50 freaking screws, and all that ‘wizardly’ going on inside! Ryobi 40 Volt held together with like 4 screws!? 😂 Love these repair videos. Hope I NEVER have to try and repair my own! 😆 Best 👍✌
Would be great to see the results of the pack after a few cycles of putting it on an electronic load to measure the capacity and then charging it.
Thanks for your feedback.
I use a 42" walk-behind gas DR mower to do most of my lawn mowing, and I purchased a 7.5 AH EGO mower in May 2022 to do touchup mowing. The EGO mower has between 10 and 15 total hours of use, and the battery started flashing red and cutting out this summer. I've used it about 6 times this summer, and each time the red cutout became more frequent until now it immediately cuts out and won't run the mower at all. Going to try to contact EGO today and figure out what to do.
The mower and battery have been sitting idle in a cool Morton building for about a week with the battery fully charged. I just ran the mower about a minute and it now seems to work fine. We have had some hot weeks this summer with temperatures in the upper 80s to upper 90s. The battery cutout problems I've been having may be related to overheating. Maybe on the hotter days I just need to push the mower and not add the extra load of self propelled.
So usually flashing red is an under voltage condition and not temperature related. I believe the newer packs are solid red for temperature issue and older packs are orange/yellow. So it could be a cell (or cell group) that is going bad and reduced in capacity and that is possibly why flashing red without much run time. I would contact EGO about the pack for sure. If EGO sends out a replacement and tells you to keep/recycle the old pack you can either test the cells, make sure all the connectors are plugged in well on the board and at the minimum sell it on eBay as a broken pack. People still pay good money for the broken ones. It is absolutely some growing pains with the lithium power equipment and I could see that from years of working on things. That is why I try hard to share as we learn about these as much as possible. It is No how-to manual. No schematics. No real place to take these as we did with small engine shops. I don't wont these to be throw away after a few years. Best of luck to ya!
I’m posting this comment looking for guidance.
My Jan 2021 7.5ah Ego battery measures 47v with the cover off between the black and red wires. Placed on an Ego rapid charger it goes to all green in seconds on both the charger and on the battery’s multi-light charge indicator. Placed on my Ego leaf blower the battery indicates one lit green light segment, blows for a few seconds then turns off, flashing red.
I purchased this on eBay as a non-working, but fairly new battery.
The connectors are generously and solidly covered in white silicone caulk. This seems to be a more recent improvement. The board is covered. The cells do not appear to have swollen.
I just need direction as to where to dig in first given the conditions I’ve described. Again, this is a very recently manufactured battery. The silicone is so solidly in place that I only want to start with the most likely repair.
Lastly, there are two wires, one top, one bottom, that go between the underside of the case and the battery pack, I assume for grounding out static electricity. I don’t know if I can snip these wires and repair/not repair them since I need them out of the way in order to fully open up the pack.
My very first EGO pack repair video shows the grey silicone potting being removed as well as some white over the 3 JST style connectors on the board. I don't know if this has changed or not as I have not worked on any this new. I am not sure which 2 wires you are referring to either. The 3 connectors is all I know of from the board to the pack halves. You have to remove potting as shown in my first repair video before removing the connections. Only going by experience, I would say it sound like some bad cells. Seems like maybe most or at least some cells are close to fully charged and charger shows green as some may already be as charged as can get safely. Atleast one if not more cell clusters must be dropping off very quickly to show low cut out voltage level when used so it's possible that's why it starts blinking red and why it was sold as non working. Have to go around checking cells as I mentioned in some other repair videos. Best of luck to ya!
Hi, My lawn mower's battery stop working recently. when I charge it. The light on top of the battery shows "green; red; orange". after few cycle of the light shows, the charge stop working. is there anyone know what's that mean? how to fix the problem? Thanks a lot!
Hi,
The lights cycling through the colors is normal, the stopping of the cycle obviously is not. What is the battery showing when it shuts down or when you press the fuel gauge button?
@@ThriftyToolShed Hi, thanks a lot. I checked the cells and measure the voltage one by one and found one cell's voltage was only 0.42V, I charged this cell to 3.6V and used my ego charge to charge the whole battery, same problem. Now when I push the button on top of the battery, it doesn't show any thing.
@@andrewche9803
Good job finding the low cell. As far as the fuel gauge not lighting up, make sure the plugs are plugged in well to the connectors on the BMS board. If it is not that it is more than likely an issue with the DC-DC converter part of the circuit. If the board was still connected while charging up the low cell I guess some issue with the BMS board could arise.
I have a newer battery I think that actually has the five LED lights. I had every issue with it but someone in another video mentioned dropping it. I thought he was absolutely trolling. I said I have nothing to lose because I tried everything besides opening it up which I don’t wanna do. I dropped it off my couch and it’s been working fine ever since🤣🤣🤣
Yeah, I have a repair video on the blinking orange and it was a loose connection inside causing it. I shared the information and how I could touch around the wires and it would start working then go back to fault. Many viewers commented once they realized it was a loose connection they would just drop it and start working lol. That's cool and maybe many of them will get lucky, but that bad connection will show back up more than likely. Best of luck and thanks for sharing!
@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you so much for your reply and information. I totally agree and its just a matter of time before it stops working again lol
About 40 years ago I purchased a True Value gas lawn mower for less than $100 that lasted nearly 25 years until finally too many pieces broke off. But the engine still worked. Last year I paid many times that amount for an EGO mower with an expensive battery that will likely fail permanently one month after its warranty runs out. EGO battery documentation says it will overheat and shut down. And then you must let it cool down for extended periods of time. How many times does that have to happen before EGO admits that their batteries are undersized or defective? How can one keep their lawn mowed if the mower has to sit idle for long periods of time while the battery is cooling down? Maybe put the battery in the refrigerator to speed things up?
if you have the gray, stand up quick charger, that charger has fans that help cool the battery when charging. Do not place in the fridge as you risk creating condensation conditions inside the battery pack housing. Another way to cool down a battery is to place it in front of a small fan to help evacuate the heat from w/in the battery. My battatry just started showing constant overheat conditions even after being inside the house over night. I have 12 days left on my 3yr battery warranty.
My EGO battery just passes three years, then it would not work. It looks to me they set the program to shut it down.
Thanks for making these videos. I've got a 1st gen 7.5AH 56V Ego Battery. The button shows solid green, then blinking red. Voltmeter has red 48Vs in the contacts and wiring. I'm kind of stumped. A lot of the parts are still in silicon so I may need to do some digging if it's the fuse or not. Any advice?
Well that is one of the problems I have seen a few of and I have not figured outta exactly. It is not a very common failure, but it is odd because the BMS shows green like it is testing good and then switched to blinking what seems to be an error code. I believe it is a microcontroller issue or at least an issue with a watchdog or some other communications protocol between the 2 microcontrollers because of how it errors. I tested every test point on one of these and could not find much discrepancy at all in the bad one when compared to the working board. I have many videos on other failures as we learn more about them, but usually this one is an unknown of exactly what causes it. I am of course only guessing about the microcontroller...
Wish you the best of luck with ours and thanks for your comment!
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks for the response! I hope there is a fix or replacing a microcontroller will work. I keep thinking it's the charger.
Thanks again for the helpful teardowns
@@loonigoonie If we did take time to try to get the program out of the microcontroller or a good working one then we could possibly replace the microcontroller. I have not taken the time to try this yet. It's not the most common issue so I don't know how much time it's worth.
@@ThriftyToolShed i suppose it would be worth it if i can find replacement microcontrollers to save a pricey 7.5ah. Yet replacements seem nil.
do you fix batteries for people ? i have a 7.5 and a 2.5 with red lights on
It is time to get the new battery.
Hi, interested to know if the boosted cells held up or did they self discharge again?. Is the pack still working. Thanks for your excellent video's by the way
Hi,
I have had luck with a few that had a more Minor unbalanced set of cells. For the most part the pack will lose capacity as the cells are not matched well any longer. I have a couple of 5Ah that run like they are more like 3-4Ah. (One cell or more is lower in capacity so it shuts down the rest prematurely) The other repairs are from packs with cells so far out that I had to replace them. Sometimes it's all cells and sometimes if just 1or 2 cells that are bad and the rest all test well and are matched in capacity. I will go through and test capacities on all my spare cells and match up as close as possible like I mentioned in a video called " Lithium Battery FAQ#1"
Thanks so much for your kind comment!
Thanks for the great info! I wanted to ask...after you've removed the silicone potting from the BMS, what are you using to protect the board again from water / heat...physical shock?
Your tutorials helped me get a 7.5ah $80 battery off eBay working again, but now that I want to put it together, I'm nervous leaving it unprotected...
I have considered using a silicone potting to cover the board. I have several that I have repaired now and I have had zero issue leaving then uncovered. The main benefit is how easy it is to pop the end cap off and use it to test another pack by going around the TP B1-B14 so for me the benefit of using them for testing out weighs the risk of leaving it uncovered. At first I was a little bit concerned and thought I might should recover it, but I have seen corrosion get into the connectors of a factory sealed board from one pack that got wet. The cells end caps and balancing leads were corroded bad as well. My thoughts after that is just simply keep all my pack away from any moisture if possible. These packs will not hold up if run in damp areas alot even if covered. If you feel like yours can't avoid such wet or damp then you may want to cover the board and connectors.
have you looked into the (rigid/firm) pink electrically stable foam that many circuit boards get packed in. To my understanding, the pink foam resists building up static. You could find that foam, cut it to shape and have that act as a barrier to protect the pcb when the pack is fully assembled. Hopefully, you naturally prevent the battery pack from water/rain.
Just a suggestion. I would just re-silicone with pour on mix for creating silicone molds which can be relatively cheap to buy and used of other projects. It will conform to the controller unit giving you full coverage and conform to the space its poured into. When it dries, you'll be able to easily peel or lift off and put back as it will be a perfect sealed fit everytime. Working Kinda like a new gasket.
I can find plenty of info on blinking batteries, but my *charger* is blinking red and green and won't function. I can't find anything about that anywhere...
hi,
I only have one charger repair video and it was a power supply related issue on the Rapid charger. Do you know its the charger for sure? Will the pack charge on another charger or are you having multiple pack giving issue with the same charger?
Whenever I have problems with my ego batteries. Checking the individual cell balance is my first priority and 99% of the time it's the issue
That's good. I have had more issues with the BMS on the EGO platform so far with the ones I received as non-working. Kinda like the first EGO repair video about 6 years ago and of course the board issues can damage cells also. Cells are the majority of pack issues for most branded packs for me as well, but not even close to 99%.
Where can you bay individual battery cell? How much voltage for each cell. 1.5V?
@@HsingSun all over the Internet, most are 3.6v, Samsung is the best
These are 18650 Li-Ion cells and approx. 2.6Vmin - 4.2Vmax range. So many do call these 3.6 or 3.7V nominal cells. I usually get my cells from 18650batterystore.com.
I want to charge my ego battery with solar, do you think using a step up inverter at 58v applied to the positive and negative terminals in the battery would work? Or at least not fry the battery? Thanks in advance! You seem like you know more about hacking these things than anyone else haha
Even though it's possible to do as you mentioned, it's better to allow solar utilizing an inverter with a EGO charger if possible. The reason is obviously due to the factory charger and BMS working together making sure the charging is proper and cells are balanced. If in a tough spot and you ever need to charge a pack with only solar then it is possible with the DC-DC converter as long as you have one with Constant Voltage and Constant Current! Make sure the voltage is set no higher than 58V and current I typically would not set above 1 or 2 amps max. So at least it is controlled, even though not balance monitoring. Don't forget it's best to still monitor all cells to make sure they are staying well balanced while charging though. Thanks for your comment.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks, I was thinking I would charge very slow with a 50w panel over the course of a week
Are concerned about EGO battery quality now that they moved to Lowe's? Also, I heard that using the rapid charger is bad for the batteries. You seem to use it a lot, what do you think?
I personally do not believe Lowes will affect the quality at all. I would think the QC of EGO would build to their own internal specs and standards regardless if it's HD, Lowes, ACE or even another authorized retailer selling them. As far as the rapid charger, I will agree, slower is almost always better. I have not researched or tested enough to say for sure but I believe with all the cooling on the rapid charger it is fine. I trust it. As I showed in the video on the rapid charger, it has 2 fans for cooling. One is dedicated for the pack cooling. I do use both the rapid and the standard charger. I have not noticed any issues with the rapid charger versus the standard. As we know heat is the main killer of cells. I am glad EGO has great temperature monitoring and the (ARC) cooling air flow design as well as the phase change sleeves for using latent heat absorbtion if needed. Even though these packs have some issues, they are light years ahead of the problematic Ryobi 40V packs and all the others as well. I have always thought the cooling design is the key. Tesla cells seem to do so well with the liquid cooling and that's very impressive. As far as equipment, I don't know of any other manufacturers that do as well with cooling as EGO arc lithium design. Hopefully solid state packs will be here in the next 5-7 years and we want have the same issues with the finiky Li-ion, voltage too high, voltage to low, temp too high, temp too low. Lol....
Until then they are still pretty awesome!
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks for responding! I have seen a video of a gardener who said they have seen more battery failures over the last year. Since you take these apart, do you think the quality of the new generations of Ego batteries are still high, getting better?
Well, I can not say for sure. I do not own any new generation packs still. I got so involved in trying to figure out some of the issues with the older gens that now I have many repaired packs. I was hoping the new gen packs would be better and alot of the known issues would be resolved. I still hope so, but I have been asked questions about the new gen packs alot and unfortunately I have to tell them I just don't know yet. Seems they are having some failures for sure. I do like the idea of the fuel gauge though. Heres to hoping it is a improvement and not a worse design.
So the issue that I have is I have a newer generation battery 5 amp that came with the leaf blower I think it was a 650 CFM model and the issue I have is when I put it on the charger it will blink one two three and then start flashing red it won't start the lawn mower and it won't start the leaf blower and it will not charge I'm thinking something is wrong with one of the cells I also have an older two and a half amp gen 1 battery from a weed eater that just flashes orange immediately so now I only have one seven and a half amp New Gen battery and it has to suffice for the leaf blower and mower even though Ego claims all batteries are interchangeable with all of their products a seven and a half amp battery will not fit on a weed eater
The 5ah issue may be the BMS board. I have a recent video troubleshooting the 3rd gen BMS board. It had a similar issue, unfortunately it was not repairable. but I learned a few things. The 2.5ah blinking orange thinks it's a thermal issue blinking orange. Have you tried cleaning the battery terminal connections? If not that it could be a bad connection/corrosion on the connector of the board or a bad Thermistor. Also, I did not even realize the 7.5ah will not fit some string trimmers. I thought all packs would fit all tools, even though admittedly the 7.5 would be very heavy on the weed Wacker.
Similar issue on mine. Between B5 and B6, voltage low. Shows 0.118v. Traced B5 and B6 to the cells. I am not clear on the video, do you connect + of the charger to one of connection point (e.g B5) and negative to the other (B6)? I doubt this is right, but want to make sure.
When measuring I typically put my COM or Black lead on the negative or zero voltage point and work my way around with my Test or Red lead to easily see the voltage step up, like B1 showing 4V then B2 showing 8V etc. All the way around to full voltage at the pack Positive terminal.
@@ThriftyToolShed - Great explanation. Makes prefect sense.
I have a 5 AH first generation battery. Last week was cutting the lawn with it fine. Then when I died, I went to charge it and a constant red light came on the battery. On the charger, it blinks red like in this video. Now the battery will not charge. Any thoughts what I should be looking at or is it just too old and I should get another?
What about if you try and charge it and it lights up green like it’s charged but then I put it in my leaf blower and it runs for two or three seconds and cuts off and starts flashing white?
I have never seen the lights flash white myself, but sometimes when the blower only runs a few seconds and shuts down the blower is not communicating to the D-terminal of the pack. So check/clean the contacts and try it. Hopefully it's not a BMS board issue. The other reason for showing green like charged and then shutting down early is sometimes a bad cell in the pack dropping below the low voltage cutoff as soon as a load is applied. That usually lights up red on the pack though.
I have a 2.5 AH that constantly blinks green. It's not hot or cold, it's room temperature. I checked the voltage and it's 52 volts. I plug it into the charger and the green light quits blinking, but the red light on the charger lights up immediately and won't charge. Can that be fixed? If so, how? Thanks in advance.
My very first repair video was on the blinking green. Mine was a shorted transistor on the BMS and I shared all I found with that repair! Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you!
Hi, would you ever take a look at a battery? I have a gen 3 that will flash green then red on the charger for quite a while and then will finally show fully charged. It will run my blower for about 5 minutes and then die. I would like to get it repaired.
I wish I had the time. I get asked this alot. I just try to take time to share what I found and learned from similar repairs. Hopefully it helps someone else. I could not fix them all even if I wanted to! As far as your pack goes, I do not have the 3rd gen pack to know for sure. I would think it does usually flash green then red while charging? Also if it's only a 2.5ah it may only run 5-7mins in a blower? The blower eats up the battery more than any tool I have! Just a thought, obviously you are seeing something different from when it was new....
What’s that power supply you use in his video?
I believe you are asking about the UNI-T benchtop variable power supply. It has Constant Voltage and Constant Current control. I believe it's obsolete now but it's many available. I would try to find a 0-60V model. They are harder to find. 0-30V are easier to find.
Example 0-30V
amzn.to/3HAO9F7
Example 0-60V
amzn.to/3BDV8tg
I have a 2.5 that had one cell at near zero, so I replaced it. I made sure the new cell was at the same voltage as the rest, but when I press the button, the battery first indicates green, then starts flashing orange. I checked voltage and the battery is at 55v.
If all cells are balanced like you said and it does this it's usually the BMS. I have had a few this now and could not find the issue with the BMS, but replacing the BMS with another did fix it. Usually mine are green then flash red, mine are 2nd generation with the old style fuel gauge. The newer ones may be different.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks for the prompt reply. I was going to pillage the board from my 2.0 pack, but apparently they must be different versions because the connectors are different like you mentioned in your vid.
@@VaporheadATC Yes, atleast the 2 that I have called Gen1 and Gen2 due to the connector difference and as far as the newest version with the fuel gauge, it is most likely different as well.
How would one go about charging an individual 18650 without a proper bench power supply?
Could I jump my Nitecore charger or use Skymax B6AC or Accucel 6?
Make one from old adapter? (apprehensive)
I've witnessed thermal runaway and am now paranoid, it has all but halted any of my work on batteries.
Thanks in advance.
18650 are no joke for sure. I am always cautious when charging cells and yes I will only use a CC-CV control. I have not tied it jumping to a Nitecore charger, but it could work and it should be controlled well, just take a little longer since it is thinking it is charging 1 cell and you may have 2 in parallel or even 3 in parallel in a 7.5ah pack. I don't know the other chargers by the name you mentioned but if hobby chargers they would most likely be fine. Best of luck to ya! Thanks for your comment!
@@ThriftyToolShed I have two Nightcore chargers that will hold four cells each, and the other two I mentioned are both hobby charges that will charge from 1s to 6s.
From the information you responded with, I feel safe trying to boost individual cells. Your clear and concise videos, professionalism and safety are unparalleled.
It's gotten quite cold in my neck of the woods, I will keep you posted on the one I have.
Thank you again for the valuable information you provide.
Ego 5ah battery...Im getting a random blinking red at all times. When I place it on charger it goes from 25% to 100% and won't charge. It won't run any of my equipment. I tested volts on the positive and negative on the pack from the outside and it reading 54-56 volts. Any ideas?
Most likely in the BMS. Checking connectors on the BMS connectors because it is one cause of this. I have had a few with bad BMS and a couple with corrosion on terminals at BMS causing it. Best of luck to ya!
Thank you
I have a 56v 2.5ah battery with the same issue in this video. Would you be willing to repair it if I sent it to you?
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
I know longer but simpler way to fix this error. reason for the behavoir is inabiliny to charge all cells ballanced. Although every time you connect battery to charger - it is charging a bit before turn red light on. so if you will do it again and again - at some point it will start normally.
I had this issue with 2.5 AH battery . I started with 42 v measured output. after ~25 charging attempts it got 48 v and start charging normally. (number of attempts depends on battery size and initial disballance)
That would be "another" reason that one might do this. Of course we mention the unbalanced cells a lot on this channel. This one as mentioned was balanced and we went through all that.
@Konstantin Gospodinov, Just want to say thank you so much bro!!! You save me so much in this way. Tried that way and just put an auto timer on/off loop relay and set it in 1/1 minute on/off, and just leave it alone for few hours, and then it charge the battery from 49v to 52v and since then it charge normal!!!
Awesome thanks for your comment and sharing!
How you likeing that Dewalt screw driver
It is pretty awesome. Extremely responsive. I use one at work as well that is a little bit nicer model with adjustable handle, torque settings and 2 batteries. I thought about doing a quick review on it like I did the cheaper Skil and Hammerhead which is also good. I actually bought the dewalt tool only from a local flea market so I bought a cheap battery from eBay for it and it is absolutely great for what I have in it. I have about $38 in it.
It would be cool if someone would build an AC cord plug adapter to power the tools when the battery fails
I got to get me one of those battery chargers to be able to set your exact voltage yes please
Does anyone know when the BMS does its cell balancing thang? I'm looking at getting a BA5600T for a project and i'd like to extend cell life by not quite fully charging - maybe to 4v per cell, need to know a bit more about the BMS...
According to the Ego Battery Manual - "Depending on the battery charge, it will automatically perform a self-discharge operation after one month of storage. After this self-maintenance, the battery pack will enter sleep mode and maintain 30% of its charge capacity."
Yes, this is true on storage mode.
I have a Ryobi OP401 40V charger. Have you ever worked on one. I have no voltage output.
I have not had to work on a 40V Ryobi charger yet. I have some videos on the EGO fast charger and 2 other Ryobi charger that are 18V. I am currently working on another 18V Ryobi charger that has similar issue you described. I believe lighting or a surge from it come in on mine and it took out the switcher chip. I have had some with just blown fuses but most of the time they blow it is another reason for it.
I bought a charger that was supposedly known working and I pull the Ryobi 40v batteries every time I find them, I have a 5ah, a 4ah, both of which blink four green squares/lights, and two 2.6ah that seem to be flat dead. I've tried resetting the larger capacity ones via the rst contacts on the board and not had any luck with that or boosting from a known working battery.
I'm not sure what the problem is as I watch tons of videos but that whole line seems to be very dodgy.
Just my two cents.
Yes. I have been asked to do some videos on the 40V Ryobi packs and I mentioned that I never had alot of long term luck with them. So I did a video sharing a little about them and how they are sometimes good for cell harvesting but in the end I used to run my 40V Ryobi stuff with 2 of my 20V Makita or Milwaukee packs in series and I had no issues. The video kinda got some mixed comments. Some wanted to go further with showing some actual repair, some disliked my thoughts and think the 40V have been ok for them? Most people that I know have had similar luck as my experience, it's just a headache to keep them running, the BMS is too problematic. Overcomplicated and engineered for it to ever be reliable! I work on alot of packs, but basically just cell harvest the 40V Ryobi!
@@ThriftyToolShed well, if you ever need some to work on for a video I'd be more than happy to donate. I hit all of the hardware stores within 30 mi from my house that have battery dumps and have assembled quite the collection!
@@bradhabit2217
I check them often as well. I have not found many packs in the bins this year. I would find something almost every time I would go to the hardware store pre-Covid!
How much do you charge for repairs?
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in an Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have found with a repair as we learn together. I don't have a lot of time left. I hope you can find someone you know that likes to tinker and hopefully after watching the video can help you out. I wish you the best of luck with yours.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks a bunch. I'm currently down 2 batteries. Unfortunately, all the sparkies in my life are equally busy. I may eventually try to repair myself, but I just don't have all the necessary tools at my disposal.
Any links to a viable generic model?
Are you asking about aftermarket packs? I have a couple of videos on them. The first one I bought to learn about the BMS and if it works well with the EGO equipment. The second one the company sent me to review and see what we thought about it and I was at least surprise how well it works and how well the capacity test went. I still use mine and they work great, both of them do. Of course it is a lot of mixed reviews and some negative comments about the packs on the video, so I am sure quality control may be an issue to some degree.
ua-cam.com/video/qtdeChmWXZE/v-deo.html
Having the same problem.
Can I replace the cells?
Yes & no.
Hi. Will you fix mine?
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
@@ThriftyToolShed thank you for the fast response. I realized after I read a few more comments, it's just time to replace it.😃👍
do you do repairs
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
@@ThriftyToolShed thank you so much for responding. I'll probably end up buying a new lawn mower, but your video was awesome if I just had a little more electronics and experience. Thank you!
ty
I hate this brand I buy a brand new leaf blower of this brand last month I charge the battery for a hour and a half but right when I first charge it it keep showing red blinking light but I put in my leaf blower it only work then sec and it stop and I keep pressing the start button it turn on for ten sec and stop I have to keep pressing the start button same thing again what a waist of time and money so sorry to be mean but EGO if you ever see this comment I want to say you brand really sucks so I went to buy a leaf blower that use gas it work perfectly never buy anything that use battery again YEAH 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
Thanks for sharing your experience. I will say as a avid user that this is rare, but I do understand that is not a good experience when that happens to you. Hate it happened to you, please don't give up on battery power due to one bad experience, but again I understand the disappointment!
Well, batteries do go bad, or as you say the bms could have a problem. But for sure it will probably rear its ugly head; the problem that is.I'd be interested to see what comes about. Thanks for the look, always enjoyable.