A Track bar and radius rods combined with safe-t-plus and koni shocks will completely transform the drivability. You will be much happier with the handling
Recently installed the safe t plus on my 23 bounder which I thought being new shouldn't need it. I marked the steering wheel when driving before install to find center, then installed stabilizer, and got lucky with not needing adjustments. 100 % better and less stress with driving. F53 motorhomes should come factory with the safe t plus. If for nothing else... safety reasons.
FYI. My 2003 25 foot Class C E450 Super Duty came with the stock stabilizer shock installed. I decided to upgrade it to a Bill Steen and hated it. It worked so well that wherever I left my steering wheel, that’s where the motorhome went. I found a very fatiguing just to drive a straight. So I took it off and now I drive with no stabilizer. Now it’s like driving my car. I just react to slight fingertips steering adjustments. Now my RV drives effortlessly, very controllable with no oversteering fatigue. This may not be the case with longer wheelbase RVs.
There needs to be a little bit more beef to that plate that bolts to the tie rod. It bends way too easy. Also the u-bolts should be like the ones that are used on U-joints with a flat area that lays on the tie rod
That Safe T Plus looks a lot beefier than the Bilstein that was on there! Also, how are y’all liking the Class A traveling compared to your travel trailer? We’re looking to sell our Grand Design Momentum and f350 and going to a SuperC or class A. We plan to flat tow our Chevy Tahoe. Roll Tide Roll!
When ordering you just select what chassis you have if ordering drone website. Or what I did, I put in the chassis to find out what mounting bracket kit I needed and then ordered it from Amazon.
Seems we average 7.5 wether we go 60 or something 70. Doesn't' really change. I will say around 2500 RPM is where it likes to drive. At that speed of 68mph a lot less down shifting on hills
Nice upgrade. If we move to a Class A I’ll have to remember to add one of these.
It’s a must have for sure!
Now you need to add a rear trac bar and upgrade the shocks to koni shocks
It already came with Koni and I will check might already have rear trac bar. But thinking about sumo bounce in future too
@@AlliChuckAdventures We make the Rear Tracbar for your coach. Let's chat! Maybe you can do a video on that. :)
@SuperSteer yeah let’s talk! Hit me up at allichuckadventures@gmail.com
A Track bar and radius rods combined with safe-t-plus and koni shocks will completely transform the drivability. You will be much happier with the handling
@@SuperSteer I can do a video on a xc freight liner chassis rear bar and ill pay for the bar
Recently installed the safe t plus on my 23 bounder which I thought being new shouldn't need it. I marked the steering wheel when driving before install to find center, then installed stabilizer, and got lucky with not needing adjustments. 100 % better and less stress with driving. F53 motorhomes should come factory with the safe t plus. If for nothing else... safety reasons.
Factory parts to remove liability.
I totally agree they should come with this. Why would they not? Seems like it’s a safety issue.
Of course you’re probably right on the liability
FYI. My 2003 25 foot Class C E450 Super Duty came with the stock stabilizer shock installed. I decided to upgrade it to a Bill Steen and hated it. It worked so well that wherever I left my steering wheel, that’s where the motorhome went. I found a very fatiguing just to drive a straight. So I took it off and now I drive with no stabilizer. Now it’s like driving my car. I just react to slight fingertips steering adjustments. Now my RV drives effortlessly, very controllable with no oversteering fatigue. This may not be the case with longer wheelbase RVs.
Thanks and good to know. 😁
Good job chuck
Thanks!!! 😁
Nice upgrade!
Thanks!
There needs to be a little bit more beef to that plate that bolts to the tie rod. It bends way too easy. Also the u-bolts should be like the ones that are used on U-joints with a flat area that lays on the tie rod
👍
That Safe T Plus looks a lot beefier than the Bilstein that was on there! Also, how are y’all liking the Class A traveling compared to your travel trailer? We’re looking to sell our Grand Design Momentum and f350 and going to a SuperC or class A. We plan to flat tow our Chevy Tahoe. Roll Tide Roll!
We LOVE it!!! We make much better time traveling too without having to stop for food and bathroom breaks
WAS THAT METAL PART COLD I HEARD YOU SAY BRRR
Maybe it had some metal burrs on it
Hahah
It did. And got me good!
@@portabull749 YOU HEARD HIM SAY IT WAS COLD TO
What did you find out about the shock being parallel to the steering bar? Did you leave the u- bolts kinda cockeyed or straight up and down?
Ended up straightening them out. Working great!
@@AlliChuckAdventures Thank you
I think they want it at a slight down angle so water can drain out .
So this 'Safe T Plus' didn't come with the mounting brackets ??? How did you know what brackets to buy or use ??
When ordering you just select what chassis you have if ordering drone website. Or what I did, I put in the chassis to find out what mounting bracket kit I needed and then ordered it from Amazon.
@@AlliChuckAdventures thanks
MPG? At 65MPH. Thx
Seems we average 7.5 wether we go 60 or something 70. Doesn't' really change. I will say around 2500 RPM is where it likes to drive. At that speed of 68mph a lot less down shifting on hills
Steering wheel cover are once of the things to remove if you are thinking about safety...
And that linkage bracket looks way to flimsy, the bolts in one end, and the load bearing at the other end... Wonder how long that will last...
Well I guess we will see
Ever thought about wearing your seat belt?
Yeah, I usually do wear it. I was in and out readjusting the safe t plus. 😊
You cheated and used an 80’s montage.
Ha I’m an 80’s guy!!!
Gasoline camper???? 🤯 WHY ????
Why ask why lol