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Fat Over Lean Oil Painting With NO SOLVENTS!
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- Опубліковано 8 лют 2023
- I've done a ton of research on how to follow the fat over lean rule in oil painting without solvents. In this video I'm going to show you how to keep yourself and your family safe with non toxic oil painting while following the fat over lean rule so your paintings will last for a very long time.
OIL PAINTING TUTORIAL
chrisbeaven.com/courses/
Links on the History of oil painting
eclecticlight.co/2016/09/19/a...
eclecticlight.co/2016/08/11/a...
Jan Van Eyck AMAZING!
www.nationalgallery.org.uk/pa...
Fat over lean rule
gamblincolors.com/fat-over-le....
My Tutorials
chrisbeaven.com/courses/
See all my art on my website!
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Have Questions?
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Oil Painting Tutorial: ua-cam.com/video/gV-1XvOcy44/v-deo.html
Ive start playing with Georgian water mixable oils. After using acrylics and house paint for years, but studying oil painters, it's such a welcome sea change and feels much more forgiving and painterly :)
Thank you! As someone who's always done acrylic portrait paintings, I've been wanting to try oils for so long and this is exactly what has been stressing me out (and the fact that there is so many mediums/solvents i didnt know where to start ). This was so helpful and now I'm going to try oils and linseed. Maybe pick up some galkyd. Thank you!!
Glad I could help!
Hello Chris! Thank you for these videos. I'm a digital artist but I really want to go back doing some oil, which I haven't done much. I was scared of solvents because I live in such a small place and I can't really open the window during the winter. So I'm very happy I found your videos. They're very informative and now I see I can paint with oil without any risk.
Wonderful! I'm very happy to be of help! You got this!
Boy thanks! I stumbled onto your process through trial and 2 horrible solvent health disasters. I moved into a tiny apt with poor air circulation and had a tiny bit of black mold from keeping my solvent in the garage - serious skin infection! Then got rid of all that solvent and in my painting excitement I left the top off my clean Gamsol for 2 hours- serious throat-face infection DUH! Recovered quickly and use a small amount of the great gel medium and paint without even much if any of that for subsequent layers. NO problems- I like painting in layers even up into glazes and heavy impasto. Great advice and help thanks! You are an awesome artist!
Wonderful! Thank you so much!
Love your videos! Very direct and informative!
Glad you like them!
Thank you and All the best.
Your Welcome!
You are the future. Keep up the research
Will do thanks a bunch!
As somebody who got into oils recently after years of watercolor, I only did it because water mixable oils exist. But despite the fact that everyone who’s tried them says that they are pretty much the same as regular oils, they are not popular. I go to shop after shop in my native town and everybody tells me, “We used to keep them but they didn’t sell.” So I come along and can’t find them.
But why? It would be such a simple solution. You can use *water* as a solvent. No toxicity unless you drink from the jar.
But people don’t use them and eventually they will disappear from the market. Daniel Smith has just discontinued their line (they got out of oils completely), Jackson’s also discontinued their line…
Well that sucks.
thanks a lot
Welcome!
I just picked up the Michael Harding "Miracle" line of glazing and mediums for my traditional paintings as they are plant based. I do a color underpainting that depending on the colors sometimes a little medium helps. It is basically a scrub in layer. Agree fully in that I go from thin layers of paint basically straight from the tube to then tube paint then to paint mixed with oil for finer details. After that it dries then I will glaze. All layers are thin so dry times are quick. Luckily my pop art pallette knife paintings require no medium with the oil paint.
Awesome!
This is how I paint, straight out of the tube. If I want a thin underpainting, I’ll use acrylic
That's awesome! Thanks for pointing out another option for everyone. Where can we see your artwork?
Hi ! Thank you for your video, it was very helpful ! How would you do a stain on a white canvas though ? I am used to do a burnt umber wash before beginning to paint. And I was doing so with mineral spirit and fast drying paint. I have tried a Vegetable Solvent from Divolo but it doesn't quite dry the same way. I loved the effect of the very thin layer. What would you suggest to someone that doesn't want to use acrylic ? Thank you so much ! Cheers
Great question! I stain my canvases, a neutral, gray by combining black and white gesso together and sanding in between a couple layers. The other way you can do it if you want a really light stain where the white of the canvas shows through is to thin down some acrylic paint And put a wash on there. It dries in just a few minutes.
Hey chris. I just wanna say you have inspired me to make oil painting much more safe for me. I really love liquin because it thins the paint very well and it dries it within a day. However I was really concerned about its toxicity. Do you think that the alkyd mediums from gamblin are better for your health or are all the alkyd mediums toxic to some degree? Also have you tried the sennelier green for oil alternatives? I've heard that they are non toxic but if you add to much they cab mess up with the drying of your oils. One last question. How effective is safflower oil for cleaning your brushes? I really want to completely stop using solvents but im worried that oils arent as effective.
Liquin is terrible! The smell is absolutely awful. Go with Galkid Gel by gamblin. No smell but does has some harmful stuff. I think this would be the next step for healthy painting for you. I haven't tried sennelier. Any solvent alternative is still harsh enough to break apart fat molecules your brain is a bunch of fat molecules so it will do the same there. Stop going for perfection here. Safflower oil will remove 90% of the pigment from your brush and if you want to fully clean them then use soap. I can clean my brushes with a dirty can of safflower oil during a painting, then use a paper towel to get the rest out of the brush and dip directly into titanium white without effecting the color. Ultimately it's up to you. Experiment and figure out what works best for you. Good luck! Thanks for the questions!
Hi Chris.
I discovered your channel recently and wanted to take this opportunity to thank you for all the precious content. That's a great ressource 👍
I wanted to jump in on this topic, since each time, when discussing on "fat over lean", people seem to forget to mention what would happen if you keep painting with "out of the tube" paint and layer this ? Since the amount of fat is equal, and you go sequentially, the layers of paint would dry "in order" .
You could then fatten if you want for glazing on top or such, but if you keep using your paint without altering it with any kind of medium, does it also work ?
Thanks for your insights on this 😉
Take care !
Greetings from France.
Fabrizio
Thank you for the compliment! There is so much crazy nuance here. Some could argue that it wouldn't work because each pigment needs more oil because different pigments absorb oil differently. But with over a decade of experience in oil painting I've never had a problem with using paints right out of the tube and forgetting completely about fat over lean. What I would suggest is to be aware of the concept but don't let it prevent you from doing the art you want to do. Look at Edvard Munch's paintings. He painted on un-primed wood and left his paintings outside in the elements for the weeks and months it took to actually complete them. They still hang in museums today. After seeing that I don't worry too much about fat over lean, I just get to painting as often as possible. See this video for more on Munch: ua-cam.com/video/d50FbuyswAU/v-deo.htmlsi=ZCTtBFl9kV56UuRX
This was really interesting; lots of great info. One question about something I’m confused about though (which happens to be what I was largely trying to find an answer to):
So, I just recently started oil painting, & was trying to go solvent-free (I don’t have a big space to paint in most of the time). After a good bit of research, the first medium I ended up going with to try is the same Gamblin solvent-free (safflower oil + alkyd) medium you talked about here, except I got the fluid version rather than the gel.
What I’m unclear about (vis-a-vis the fat over lean rule & this medium) is this… I was puzzled about how to integrate it to begin with, since it does include an oil, but also alkyd… I know you said that in your process, you use neat paint first, & then you begin to add more & more medium for subsequent layers… But the bottle says that this medium speeds up drying time. My understanding was that the whole point of the fat over lean rule was that the lean layers dry faster, so you want them to be closer to the foundation, with slower drying layers toward the top… So if this medium speeds up drying (whether it’s because of the alkyd or for any other reason), wouldn’t that tend to mean that you’d want to use it on the lower, leaner layers? And then use less of it (thus having the slower drying linseed oil binder of the neat oil paint make up a greater proportion of the paint) on later layers? Or is there just so little linseed oil in neat paint (from the tube) that any significant amount of medium adds enough safflower oil along with the alkyd that it needs to come after the neat paint? In that case, does it depend on which paint you use? Because I know that some pigments (strongly tinting ones like ivory black or pthalo blue) require much more linseed oil binder, whereas some have very little oil & come out of the tube quite lean…
Linseed oil, by all accounts, should dry slower than the medium with the alkyd in it, in my limited understanding… So how does this work? I’m not doubting that you’ve had good results with your method (maybe it really is just that with alkyds, & especially if you’re letting layers become fully touch-dry before painting over them, as you mentioned, the fat over lean isn’t so crucial?)… But I’m having trouble rationally making it make sense with what I know about the rule. I suppose it could also just be that will the gel version you’re using (or maybe with any version) you’re adding enough thickness to the later layers, compared to the way you’re painting with the neat paint, that it ends up being thick enough that, with the safflower oil balancing out the quick alkyd dry time as well, it ends up slower drying than the neat paint anyway…
But yeah- basically, if the medium says it speeds up the dry time, & it ought to dry faster than the linseed oil in the neat paint, then why does it still come after the neat paint, & use more medium in later layers? I’m trying to find some kind of logic & consistency to the guidelines here so that I can reason my away around what order to use other kinds of mediums with other ingredients, but it’s not really making sense. Maybe it’s just the inclusion of alkyd throwing things off for me.
Thanks for any input! And I appreciate the video overall.
I’ve also been experimenting with spike lavender oil as an alternative to turpentine, & that does make it a bit more straight forward (I know that if I do an underpainting with that, a layer with a little medium OR neat will certainly come after that, & then I can do another layer with a little more medium if I want). It is an inconvenience needing to use it outdoors, basically as I’d have to do with turpentine, because it smells POWERFULLY & lingers even if it isn’t carcinogenic [I’ve heard it’s still an irritant & not something you want to inhale concentratedly for a prolonged period], but it seems to work reasonably well, though the price makes it less than ideal for very casual brush-cleaning uses… Not a bad option for people to try if they’re trying to paint toxic solvent free, but I’d still advise caution & ventilation. But yeah, my question is more about neat paint/the linseed oil that is already in it vs layers with this solvent-free medium in the mix. Thanks.
You're over thinking it. I've been painting for decades and I've never had a painting crack or have any problems. Even when I didn't follow the fat over lean rule. The best thing you can do is just paint. Express yourself. Get to work making art.
When doing the layers, do you have to let them dry every time? Or can you start your next layer while the one you just made is still wet?
But the Galkyd and Galkyd lite are toxic too, the vapors are very intense, so what else can you use to speed up the drying time or thin the oil?
Put it in a warmer environment. Many artists use heaters to blow warm air on their paintings to get them to dry faster.
So if I understand it correctly, I can go from color straight out of the tube to adding, let's say, linseed oil into the color, adding more oil for every succeeding layer. And if I want a better flow of the color in the beginning I can use galkid as a substitute for solvent?
Yes, that is correct.
Thanks for the great insights! I am looking for a non-harmful means of glazing technique, can you offer a recommendation?
Refined linseed oil or any of the non solvent mediums from gamblin.
Chris, have you read “The New Oil Painting: Your Essential Guide to Materials and Safe Practices,” by Kimberly Brooks? It's a good, quick read. My question is about Galkyd Lite. It is alkyd based. Doesn't it require thinner/gamsol? I am a real fan of liquin but try to use it rarely. I was hoping this might be a better alternative. I try to use as little thinner as possible, and use safflower oil mostly to clean brushes now.
I just read the website and the bottle. No mention of a need for thinner. gamblincolors.com/oil-painting/mediums/contemporary-oil-painting-mediums/ I've used Galkyd for years without any issue and no solvents.
Thanks for your response,
@@ChrisBeavenart
@@Ihavegumption According to Gamblin, "Galkyd, Galkyd Lite and Neo Megilp, [which] are made from alkyd resin and Gamsol", so in using Galkyd Lite you are in fact using Gamsol as well.
Awesome, thank you. How do you clean your brushes? Dish detergent work fine?
Thanks! Basic soap. But I never need to clean them.
@@ChrisBeavenart Yes, I watched another one of your videos where you demonstrated that. Really good information. I want to start using oils to paint but want to do it in a solvent free, non-toxic way. I've subscribed to your channel :)
Hi what product we can use for thinning oil paint with any natural material available at home,
There are none that I know of. All of the oils used for cooking are non-drying or semi-drying oils. If you use those your oil painting will not dry. Same for solvents, none that I know of available normally at homes. Thanks for the question.
Hello Chris, Thank you for this video... I always thought that linseed oil will help dry the oil paint faster. But this contradicts the rule of fat over lean, if I add more oil to the paint, I'm making it fatter, so that means the earlier layers shouldn't have as much linseed oil? but as I said before, linseed oil is supposed to make paint dry faster? I'm just so confused and I'm seeking some help....
Linseed oil does not make paint dry faster.
What are your thoughts on walnut oil?
Love it. It's just like linseed oil. Many masters used it instead of linseed oil because it doesn't yellow as much over time especially when using white. You will find that a lot of white paints out of the tube use Walnut oil as a vehicle instead of linseed oil.
What do you think of using galkyd lite + oil paint vs acrylic paint for the underpainting? Is one method better than the other?
Either way works. I've tried both. I like the former because I don't have to have two sets of materials. Yeah the dry time takes longer but if you have a couple paintings going it's easy to switch to another while one is drying. Best for you to try it and figure out what YOU like. :)
@@ChrisBeavenart That makes a lot of sense, thank you!
Hi Chris, Thank you for the video. when painting solvent free is it okay to use just paint out of the tube for a painting that has consecutive layers? for example lets say I have 3 or 4 layers above the initial block in, could I just bypass adding a fat in the upper layers? would this make the piece unstable or prone to cracking later?
The purpose of fat over lean is to make sure that the layers dry in order. First to last. Layers that have more fat will dry slower. If you let your initial layers dry then paint over I don't feel you need to have much oil in the later layers. I still prefer to add a bit of oil to all those later layers as I like to glaze and it's also a just in case if some parts of the under painting are not dry. Last thing. This precaution is to save the painting from cracking multiple decades from now, not within the next couple years. If your skill level is high and your making paintings your selling then put time and effort into getting this right. If you are a beginner and need to build skill, put all your effort into making as many paintings as you can and learning from mistakes and not the archival quality of your work. Hope that helps. Thanks for the comment.
@@ChrisBeavenart thank you. thats very helpful to hear! What ratio of Oil to Paint do you recommend? Can you recommend where I can read more on this subject?
@@nataliekovacs8405 I like this article on the subject. www.sophieploeg.com/blog/safe-studio-oil-painting-without-solvents/ I don't have a specific ratio. Try different ratios for the first layer with medium and see how you feel about the transparency. You will need to add more as you go for other layers. So if you plan to have three layers make sure the third layer is not so thin with fat that it's completely clear. :)
what about just using linseed oil or walnut oil?
That may work but I like the Galkyd medium because it dries faster to really make sure that the under layers are drying faster than the top layers.
What if you like to use subtractive underpainting techniques?
What about water mixable oils?
Balance what you love with you're materials. Do the research. Where and how you paint plays a large role in this as well.
I am doing the switch over from acrylics .
Has oil just has so much more depth excited for the switch.
So if I am correct , my early layers I can use the Galkyd Lite and then for my later thicker layers I can pretty much use oil straight from the tube with maybe the little dab of gamsol where needed.
Gamsol I can also use to clean my brushes .
How does this sound ? And thank you for this video
For later layers, you want to add more oil/medium. Only add solvents to the beginning layers. But like my previous videos say you don’t need solvent at all, nor do you need to clean your brushes. And if you feel like you do need to clean your brushes, just use soap.
@@ChrisBeavenart The reason I want to use Galkyd lite is for the fast drying time and I like to build layers almost like watercolour. So after that I will not use any medium or solvent with my oil paint for them later layers 👍.
Will painters soap remove the Galkyd lite? Then use a natural oil for the soak of the brushes until next use .
@@gothicgorey Any soap will work. Many suggest ivory soap as the cheap alternative. Make sure to use a semi-drying oil like safflower, or sunflower oil to soak your brushes.
@@ChrisBeavenart Thank you for your time 👍great help
I honestly was expecting more of a only linseed oil process, no solvents, as you mention the Old Master did. In those time there was no, acrilic, nor Gamblin gel, alkyds medium, or such around.
There is no reason why you can't do that. Use the solvent free gamblin gel.
thanks for sharing sir i thought painting without turpentine is impossible🇵🇭🇺🇸❤️
You are very welcome
Or can I just same amount of linseed oil medium in every layer but let all layers dry first there will be no cracking?
There is no exact science to it. It's almost impossible to measure out very specific amounts of medium per paint layer. Best to just "eyeball it" and make sure to add a little more each time.
So if I did this its okay to ignore fat over lean
1. Layer Acrylic underpainting
2. Layer paint from tube
3. Layer paint + linseed oil
4. Layer paint + linseed oil + more linseed oil?
How I will do details like in the last layer for a portrait adding white as highlights? Can I just use paint again from tube or more more more linseed oil?
I would let all the layers dry first before going to the next layer. If I do it like that, can I paint only with linseed oil?
Thank you so much for this video !
Yes this is what I've been doing for years with no cracking. Alternatively you can wait for each layer to dry before putting paint on top. To clarify if your painting alla prima everything basically mixes to one layer and no need to worry about fat over lean.
@@ChrisBeavenart Thank you so much for explaining and the answer. I know Alla prima technique as a beginner I did Alla prima. I am still a beginner I wanted to find a way to paint oil portrait longer like in weeks or months. Because for Alla prima I worked more than 10h on a portrait because I didn't know how to layer or wait until it's dry and work again on it, I am not sure how oil works exactly when you want to paint in a week or longer. I need more time than 10h in Alla prima because one day I want paint like old masters and there for I can't do just Alla prima. Master paintings are so much work I am not there now, but I just want to find a way where I can paint longer on oil painting. In acrylic nothing happens no matter how many layers and oils confuse me, but oils are better for blending and I already did buy everything for oils and I am already painting with oils. It's very complicated. I don't really even know what I am doing is right or wrong when it comes to this layer rule.
@@ChrisBeavenart When I wait until every layer is dry then I can ignore this rule ? Thanks
I thought galkids had solvents ? And also could I do this while painting alla prima ?
Yes and yes. I believe I mention in my video that galkyd by gamblin has some harmful additives. Go will the solvent free line by Gamblin.
Are you talking about solvents or medium? solvents are needed to clean your brushes but not for painting.
Interesting, thanks. I am always seeking for competent advice regarding solventfree painting. Just one advice from my side: the background music is really disturbing, so that I can't really concentrate on your important content..
Thanks for the tip!
what are the best oil paints to use straight out of the tube....i got some that are way too thick...i ll try that galkyd lite....i partially switched to oils from acrylics but the brilliant colors and nice mixing is not as impressive as i thought so im still gonna use both...i mean if u are skilled u can do pretty good art with acrylics too....
I highly recommend Gamblin paint. But if you were looking for something that is a bit more fluid right out of the tube I would suggest Rembrandt paint. Acrylics are a great alternative, but the quick drying time could be very different than what you want unless you add retarders to it. I would suggest trying some of the cheaper colors from Gamblin or Rembrandt or golden acrylics. Start inexpensively and experiment. With just black and white and each paint you can do value studies and get a tremendous understanding of the working properties of each paint.
thanks a ton for the info...i am always experimenting...eventually ill get to that level where one prefers oils i guess...
You don have to paint in oils! Many great artists paint in acrylics- check out Robert Bateman for example
@@elisabethseeger5837 yes i do like acrylics a lot. so much less hassle for almost same results...
@@elisabethseeger5837 Very true! I love Robert Bateman. We actually went to his gallery in Vancouver CA several times. I prefer oil though and with my methods it's just as health as acrylic.
I am tempted to use vodka as a solvent. I think it's a good idea.
nope
@@ChrisBeavenart have you tried it 😂
Thomas Jefferson Kitts called fat over lean something like "more oil over less oil. And all you need to do it is linseed oil. Fat over lean, which everyone uses, seems to confuse people, as they look at their art supplies and ask themselves which are the fat and the lean.
Also, not to be a dick, but there is too much emphasis out there on "lasting for 500 years". Particularly from newbies as they can apply their technical prowess to figuring out the technology of painting. It is familiar territory to think technically for many people, and it is a great thing. But what they might want to do before they blow the family fortune on ACM panels, etc... is ask themselves these two questions:
1) How many paintings were sorted through until we got the few we now revere. Painting people used to light their fires, or close of a window.
2) How many paintings did the select few we remember do before they produced these eternal works of art.
There is no reason to start with poor practices, it isn't any easier, but cut yourself some slack when you are starting out.
I agree. I like what an artist friend said. "Many artists worry about archival quality when they should be worried about the garbage man." Haha.
❤️👍
Thanks!
Lay off the music........it adds nothing.
Great content....... I use water-based oils and a "thinner".....so what ever comes out of the tube has to be Fat. And some of the pigment, straight from the tube is very Thin already.
Your comment adds nothing. Delete your comment
thanks for you opinion. I tend to agree actually. When I get back to creating videos things will change.
@@ChrisBeavenart ....yeah.... I feel a little mean-spirited now.....but I really struggle to concentrate on what is being said..... I start listening to the music.
Music in background is not cool.
Okay
I'm going to try galkyd lite it sounds like the perfect medium for me! Thank you so much for the recommendation, I want to stop using solvents soon
Awesome! After working with the alkyd medium on my live stream I find it wonderful for thinning out the paint, but it does turn sticky very quickly. I would suggest letting each layer dry if you use the medium before, adding subsequent layers to avoid the stickiness other than that it’s working wonderful for me.
@@ChrisBeavenart Oh really, okay thanks i'll keep that in mind :)