The break in period is longer with the bigger ceramic decent ball. But once it breaks in oh my lord it is sebenza smooth! Just takes 2-3 months approximately
they really are very nice. i wish they were a bit thinner, but honestly, when you have plenty of knives i think i can live with this one as it is. i'll just thin the bevel a little bit each time it needs sharpening.
All of the many Sebs (Clas, Reg, 21, 25) I've had have been very chunky behind the edge. It's what keeps me from carrying them for cutting - I carry them for the fondlability of that blade action and lock 'clunk'! I've not had the courage or the skill to regrind mine like you did your Large all those years ago
This cuts reasonably nicely as it is. Maybe a little thinner than normal. If you have an edge pro style sharpener or a local guy is just regrind to 15dps on the apex only.
@Johnny Silverhand depends on what you are used to. Crk tends to grind knives 18-20dps to around 0.020". To me, this is thicker than my axes. I grind my knives to 13dps and less than 0.005". From that perspective all crk knives perform terribly relative to what I like
@Johnny Silverhand that's an interesting extrapolation to take from what I said. But yes. If I'd kept. All. My previous videos available you'd see that my axes would cut a tomato better than most folding knives and still cut down a tree
@Johnny Silverhand how do you go from me explaining that the avg folding knife has a thicker edge than an axe to. Asking if I use axes on tomatoes? Lol.
@Johnny Silverhand it seems like you are comprehending things backwards. perhaps re-read the statements. perhaps you should indicate a knife you use, and the specifications of that knife to which you consider it thin. you made the statement that the knife is not clunky behind the edge. this implies you are familiar with this knife, and think its thin. that tells me that you are not familiar with what a thin knife is, or a performance axe is either. i could be wrong, but im going by your statements. you've made no commentary regarding the actual specification i mentioned, so i dont even know if you comprehend the meaning of apex and behind the edge thickness or edge angles. i wont disagree that pretty much every production knife bar a few are far too thick behind the edge. but unless you can quality what you consider a good knife is, then it would be hard to take this further. regards
I got a small 31 last week. Absolutely killing my thumb. I’ve worked the blade probably 10,000 times and it’s still no easier to open. I can’t believe how terrible the action is on a $500 knife. I’ve taken it apart and cleaned and lubed it daily. The grease is always grimy, I guess from the sandblasting you noted. I want to send it in for a spa treatment to see if perhaps something wrong with it, but I think it’s just how it is. Guess I will just keep working it to see if perhaps it will improve. I will try your tip on loosening stop pin screw. I did barely loosen pivot, but I noticed blade play. Not when locked up, but side to side wiggle prior to lockup. This is my first Sebenza. I was excited; now I’m frustrated and disappointed.
in regards to the stiffness of the thumbstud. i suffer the same issue and i find that the small is exacting on the angle required to push away from the handle. anything except the correct angle leads to pain and no movement. if i get the angle correct it opens without much trouble. my xl hands make this a little harder on a small knife vs the large. what id reccomend for testing is to get a small piece of wood or something that is the same width as the gap in the scales and after opening the blade release the lock and insert it to keep the lock open and off the blade.. a wad of card paper would work ok for this. once the lock is not in contact with the knife, you want the pivot to be tight enough that there is zero blade play of any kind, but the blade will still move up and down very easily, but not neccessarily swing around on its own weight. if this is all good, then the issue is all related to the spring tension from the lockbar. it makes a huge difference to grease the detent ball track. add some grease to the detent hole and the path the ball takes to reduce friction. you should be able to do all that with the pivot tighentened snugly. if none of this is helping.. then maybe send it back to get checked. on opening the knife. it needs a near exact 45 degree angle away from the handle in regards to the cost. i would say never buy a knife because people say its good, or because its 500.. buy the knife because the design and function speak to you. im happy with the knife because the design is excellent to me. another knife in a different design by a different company that was identical in all ways except the actual knife design would not be worth the money to me at all. last thought. try different lube. the sebenza fluro grease is very tacky and designed for higher heat application. even in my aircon apartment now at 24c, overnight the knife has become very stiff.. if i move the blade back and forward fast for 30 seconds the action gets a lot smoother as the grease warms up. 3in1 synthetic or others like that might help a lot
I've had good results disassembling and lubing with KPL. I've also used KPL heavy on the ceramic detent ball. each of my 3 sebenzas & an inkosi improved dramatically. good luck.
@@deltawhiskey6417 It got marginally better, but finally sent it in to CRK and it came back much improved. They didn’t say specifically what they did, but I have to think they worked on the washers.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts and perspective on this knife. So much drama around Chris Reeve leaving CRK and whether the knives are still 'perfect'.
I think the bit you are referring to I said when I made my folding knife they were modeled after a sebenza construction style except that they were convex blades.. The audio was a little off when I said it though
The break in period is longer with the bigger ceramic decent ball. But once it breaks in oh my lord it is sebenza smooth! Just takes 2-3 months approximately
Glad to see your 'newer' videos!
Good to see a new video from you. Still a knife i need to get a hold of
they really are very nice. i wish they were a bit thinner, but honestly, when you have plenty of knives i think i can live with this one as it is. i'll just thin the bevel a little bit each time it needs sharpening.
@@knivesandstuff raise the line up a little and convex the edge?
All of the many Sebs (Clas, Reg, 21, 25) I've had have been very chunky behind the edge. It's what keeps me from carrying them for cutting - I carry them for the fondlability of that blade action and lock 'clunk'!
I've not had the courage or the skill to regrind mine like you did your Large all those years ago
This cuts reasonably nicely as it is. Maybe a little thinner than normal. If you have an edge pro style sharpener or a local guy is just regrind to 15dps on the apex only.
@Johnny Silverhand depends on what you are used to. Crk tends to grind knives 18-20dps to around 0.020". To me, this is thicker than my axes. I grind my knives to 13dps and less than 0.005". From that perspective all crk knives perform terribly relative to what I like
@Johnny Silverhand that's an interesting extrapolation to take from what I said. But yes. If I'd kept. All. My previous videos available you'd see that my axes would cut a tomato better than most folding knives and still cut down a tree
@Johnny Silverhand how do you go from me explaining that the avg folding knife has a thicker edge than an axe to. Asking if I use axes on tomatoes? Lol.
@Johnny Silverhand it seems like you are comprehending things backwards. perhaps re-read the statements.
perhaps you should indicate a knife you use, and the specifications of that knife to which you consider it thin.
you made the statement that the knife is not clunky behind the edge. this implies you are familiar with this knife, and think its thin.
that tells me that you are not familiar with what a thin knife is, or a performance axe is either.
i could be wrong, but im going by your statements.
you've made no commentary regarding the actual specification i mentioned, so i dont even know if you comprehend the meaning of apex and behind the edge thickness or edge angles.
i wont disagree that pretty much every production knife bar a few are far too thick behind the edge.
but unless you can quality what you consider a good knife is, then it would be hard to take this further.
regards
I got a small 31 last week. Absolutely killing my thumb. I’ve worked the blade probably 10,000 times and it’s still no easier to open. I can’t believe how terrible the action is on a $500 knife. I’ve taken it apart and cleaned and lubed it daily. The grease is always grimy, I guess from the sandblasting you noted. I want to send it in for a spa treatment to see if perhaps something wrong with it, but I think it’s just how it is. Guess I will just keep working it to see if perhaps it will improve. I will try your tip on loosening stop pin screw. I did barely loosen pivot, but I noticed blade play. Not when locked up, but side to side wiggle prior to lockup. This is my first Sebenza. I was excited; now I’m frustrated and disappointed.
in regards to the stiffness of the thumbstud. i suffer the same issue and i find that the small is exacting on the angle required to push away from the handle. anything except the correct angle leads to pain and no movement. if i get the angle correct it opens without much trouble. my xl hands make this a little harder on a small knife vs the large.
what id reccomend for testing is to get a small piece of wood or something that is the same width as the gap in the scales and after opening the blade release the lock and insert it to keep the lock open and off the blade.. a wad of card paper would work ok for this. once the lock is not in contact with the knife, you want the pivot to be tight enough that there is zero blade play of any kind, but the blade will still move up and down very easily, but not neccessarily swing around on its own weight. if this is all good, then the issue is all related to the spring tension from the lockbar. it makes a huge difference to grease the detent ball track. add some grease to the detent hole and the path the ball takes to reduce friction.
you should be able to do all that with the pivot tighentened snugly.
if none of this is helping.. then maybe send it back to get checked. on opening the knife. it needs a near exact 45 degree angle away from the handle
in regards to the cost. i would say never buy a knife because people say its good, or because its 500.. buy the knife because the design and function speak to you. im happy with the knife because the design is excellent to me. another knife in a different design by a different company that was identical in all ways except the actual knife design would not be worth the money to me at all.
last thought. try different lube. the sebenza fluro grease is very tacky and designed for higher heat application. even in my aircon apartment now at 24c, overnight the knife has become very stiff.. if i move the blade back and forward fast for 30 seconds the action gets a lot smoother as the grease warms up. 3in1 synthetic or others like that might help a lot
I've had good results disassembling and lubing with KPL. I've also used KPL heavy on the ceramic detent ball. each of my 3 sebenzas & an inkosi improved dramatically. good luck.
Did it get better?
@@deltawhiskey6417 It got marginally better, but finally sent it in to CRK and it came back much improved. They didn’t say specifically what they did, but I have to think they worked on the washers.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts and perspective on this knife. So much drama around Chris Reeve leaving CRK and whether the knives are still 'perfect'.
Yeah. With time comes change. They are still my favorite production knife
hey! miss the content
Nice knife...
But why can’t they get the lock face tolerance is correct. Many are at 80% lock up where is they should all be at exactly 50
slip of the tongue I'm sure, it's a hollow grind not convex
Not sure where I slipped.. Always possible. It's a hollow grind primary with a convex edge. If I said anything else then it's a slip for sure :)
I think the bit you are referring to I said when I made my folding knife they were modeled after a sebenza construction style except that they were convex blades.. The audio was a little off when I said it though
Ha … you make it look like an "umfaan 31"
haha. the mnandi just dissapears in my hand. an umfaan would be like my little finger :D
The CKR thumbstuds are hot garbage. All mine get spydie-holes..problem solved.