I love the comments about people getting their cars running. I got a 74’ dodge dart and it had a 4 barrel carb and we got the motor (it’s a 360) running and me and my dad got it on the road again after 30 years.
Just wanted to say thank you for this awesome video. I just rebuilt my aftermarket Edelbrock 1409 marine carb for a 1988 Bayliner and resolved all my problems. Other than small carbs for 2 stroke engines, I've never tackled a 4 bbl. Your video was extremely thorough and was just what I needed to get the job done.
Interesting disassembly narrative, Kyle, but there are a few things i would have done differently. Pulling the air Cleaner Stud is easy. Either grab it with slipjoint pliers or double-nut the shaft and turn it with a wrench. Out of the way, it's much easier to operate. I always unscrew the Acellerator pump linkage before lifting the top off. The S link should look like "S" never a "Z" on reasssembly. I use very fine needle nose pliers to pull the hairpins off the linkages. Magnetized tips are helpful. The replacement Edelbrock p/n 1470 accelerator pump shaft is white plastic. The OEM Carter AFB part was brass. Replacing the ''donut'' [rimmed O-ring ] gasket is always a good idea, and will go on the brass shaft.. Old school Carters had leather cup accellerator pump gaskets. [Like old Coleman stoves.] A fingertipful of clean 30 weight motor oil can revitalize them. Federal Mogul bought out Carter in the Ninties. They continued to market the AFB under the Carter Competition Series. These carbs were made by Weber, who also built the Edelbrock Performer [AFB clones]. Older Carters had the slotted screws on top, later ''Competition Series" models and Edlebrocks used the torx capped screws. I tried to buy a 500 CFM Carter AFB for a '68 292 Chevy L6 build, in 2004, but Edelbrock was by then, the only game in town for this style carb. So I now have a 1404. On my '71 GMC Jimmy 4x4's V8 350, I run a Carter [Comp Series] 9605S AFB with 600 CFM. [= EDL 1405]. I prefer a manual choke, looks like the previous owner was of the opposite philosophy. As Nyman's Garage pointed out the factory 600 CFM w/ auto choke would've been a 1406. The ''white stuff'' on the bottom of your accellerator spring was probably lead oxide deposits. That fuel became unavailable after the turn of the last century. Might give you an idea how long that carb sat. When I'm doing a metering rod/jet change, I loosen and rotate the pear-shaped retaining ports. Moving them out by 120* you can usually access the rods and springs. I have to do this annually to lean out my 292 to pass emissions. After re-registration, we tune it back for performance. The Jimmy with a 350 is now emissions-exempt, as I have Year of Manufacture [1971] plates on it and Hagerty insurance.
I'm planning on rebuilding my friends Toyota Hilux carb, this video has been very insightful on what to expect, I really like how you explained how components work. Luke Wagner.
i have found that a 7 / 32 float level gives you a good off idle response. the old instruction sheet will some times show a VERY wide rang of float level call outs on different models. so if you want to experimental try small changes.
When I'm disassembling the carb, I lay out a long piece of tape. Masking or duct tape will work, but I like to use wrapping tape. I lay it out sticky side up, turning the ends under so it will stay in place on the table. Then I put the parts I remove on the tape in order, so bumping the table won't result in a disaster, as it might if they were just lying on the table loose.
Was disassembling my Carter AFB and used purple power as a degreaser, *Big mistake* The purple power ate through the grease and grime and parts of the aluminum. When I pulled the carb out of the tank, white aluminum oxide Crystal's have formed wherever there was aluminum. The carb before had a aluminum clear shine but after the degreaser, the carb is now a dull matte black. As a pre cautionary, use some pine sol, or carburetor cleaner in a bucket. Just some tips from a rookie to help you avoid getting in the same situation.
Hey Bro, good video but AFB was actually factory equipment on 1965 Chevy Caprice, 327 300 hp. Up until a couple months ago it sat in a field in Wyoming for 30 years. I just completely rebuilt the engine, carbs the last thing.
A Carter was used on some 275/300hp 327 65-66 Chevys, however it was not the AFB. It was the AVS. Carb number is 4028S or 4028SA. It’s easily identifiable by the center rear fuel inlet. It is rated at 575 CFM. The AFB is the slightly older model and was mostly used on Mopar engines. Edelbrock acquired Carter when it folded up and began pricing the AFB as their Performer series carbs. They later because offering an AVS, which offers a few improvements and refinements over the AFB.
I like the models right before Edelbrock bought the patents. They have a rivited "Carter" tag, just like Edelbrock uses. Drill and tap that unused boss and make it dual-feed.
A quick point...When looking for a base point of the idle air adjustment screws and screwing in the screws becareful not to screw down the screws to tightly, you will deform the base of where the screws make contact or deform the screws them selves . Another way is to UN screw and count the rotations as the screws come out. This way no damage can result.
Ford had their own 4-barrel Autolite carb. Not saying it didn't happen, but I've never seen an AFB on a stock Ford motor. GM used zillions of the AFB's.
Got 3 of these I'm going to rebuild the last one I think I will modify just a little goin to watch this video a few time ,any tips on the modifying would be great thanks and Merry Christmas to you and your family have a good time
I could be mistaken Kyle but you did not put the accelerator pump linkage back in the same hole you removed it from during disassembly. Wouldn’t be a big deal except you made it a point to be sure to make note of it in part one. It appears you removed it from the top hole and installed it in the middle hole. So your A grade goes to a B+. 😬✌️
Word of advice, remove the stud. I left mine in as I was following this video as I saw the air horn comes off with it still in there... not in mine. I thought it was just the gasket holding on for dear life and ended up bending part of my airhorn trying to get it separated.
My question to anyone on this thread is, does the 1405 have the linkages right where the choke would be? I don’t remember seeing any when I pulled it off my 70 buick skylark
Unfortunately for me. My carb would not split. So after hours of prying and spraying carb cleaner to assist it finally split shattering the top assembly because the center rod was holding down the assembly. It was not a straight through. I will need to but a new carburetor. For future videos you may want to get that out of the way so it does not happen to anyone else.
@@believecross1597 I see what you mean, but hagerty makes timelapses of rebuilds and I clicked on this thinking it was a rebuild timelapse cause I love them and I didnt read the whole title
Where kind I find a rebuild kit for a 1406. Everyone that I found has very few parts in it. I ordered one and the gaskets and a couple other parts was all I could use.
my hint. dont remove the jets if you dont have to. if you have to. and they dont come out easy DONT force them. use a torch heat the jet till the flame changes color . then hit it with water. then let it cool. dont worry its way harder to melt the cast then you think.
Like father like son. no earthly idea on mechanics. You never call a half turn a full turn, you turn in increments of halves but you count in full turns. I am sure that if you keep at it and get the hell away from your dad, you will be brilliant. And also, that 1405 is manual.
I've rebuilt a bunch of Carter AFB's, AVS, Edelbrock, Holley's, etc and you are incorrect right out of the box....the Edelbrock 1405 is a hand-choke carb set up a bit richer than the electric choke 1406 carb....a bit hotter on the street......both are 600 cfm.
I have an Edelbrock 1405 and it’s a manual choke. Are you sure it’s not a 1406? The upper hole on the accelerator pump is for a larger carb (700+ cfm).
Cant separate tophalf from buttomhalf from a marine weber 9600s carburetor is there a secret, yes all the screws are out it won't break free from gasket @
I have a used Edelbrock carburetor the on a rebuilt 350 engine and the engine runs good but the carb only runs with the choke closed and will not run when its open and I checked for air leaks and there is none is there anyone that can help me... rebuild it or get another one?
Best way to clean carb parts is to place individual sections of the carb in zip loc bags. Soak with carb clean and remove all the air and seal up. Fill your lltrasonic cleaner full of hot water. And let go for an hour or so until clean. With the hundreds of carbs Thai I've overhauled. Comes out looking like new and the ultrasonic cleaner still is in perfect condition/ spotless clean.
@@ebinmaine yes, as a matter of fact i just finished it yesterday , only problem is the rebuild kit I got of eBay didn’t have hardly any of the parts I needed. Mainly gaskets was I it had.
I cringed when he flipped the lid over, my float bowl pin fell out along with the needle and disappeared into the lawn (spraying carb cleaner)...a magnet found the pin, eyeballed the needle...
This is a perfect example of an engineer explaining and working on something. I'm sure this guy has studied hard and is very knowledgeable about this, but there's no dirt under those finger nails; there's no confidence when he's splitting a seal. I believe what your telling me, but I don't respect how you're telling it.
@@jesseduke694 in fairness to him, every truck I've bought with a 351M 400 or a 460 has had a edelbrock swapped onto it. Never tuned right, but an edelbrock none the less
I learned that my liver is screwed...but for real was slightly intimidated on the rebuild of my carb but after watching the video I think I can handle it. Thanks for the informative and slow steps, as some other videos with fast forward steps and quick talk was not helpful to me.
It's the explanation and video work that extends this time out, I'm sure if he was trying to disassemble to carb more quickly he'd be capable of doing so
You guys just got my 68 vette running after sitting since 1984. This video was very very helpful
I love the comments about people getting their cars running. I got a 74’ dodge dart and it had a 4 barrel carb and we got the motor (it’s a 360) running and me and my dad got it on the road again after 30 years.
Just wanted to say thank you for this awesome video. I just rebuilt my aftermarket Edelbrock 1409 marine carb for a 1988 Bayliner and resolved all my problems. Other than small carbs for 2 stroke engines, I've never tackled a 4 bbl. Your video was extremely thorough and was just what I needed to get the job done.
I am rebuilding my 1406. I found this video very informative and easy to follow
Helping me get confident to tackle my 1406. I have the 1477 rebuild kit and will start this weekend. Wish me luck.
Interesting disassembly narrative, Kyle, but there are a few things i would have done differently.
Pulling the air Cleaner Stud is easy. Either grab it with slipjoint pliers or double-nut the shaft and turn it with a wrench. Out of the way, it's much easier to operate. I always unscrew the Acellerator pump linkage before lifting the top off. The S link should look like "S" never a "Z" on reasssembly.
I use very fine needle nose pliers to pull the hairpins off the linkages. Magnetized tips are helpful.
The replacement Edelbrock p/n 1470 accelerator pump shaft is white plastic. The OEM Carter AFB part was brass. Replacing the ''donut'' [rimmed O-ring ] gasket is always a good idea, and will go on the brass shaft.. Old school Carters had leather cup accellerator pump gaskets. [Like old Coleman stoves.] A fingertipful of clean 30 weight motor oil can revitalize them.
Federal Mogul bought out Carter in the Ninties. They continued to market the AFB under the Carter Competition Series. These carbs were made by Weber, who also built the Edelbrock Performer [AFB clones]. Older Carters had the slotted screws on top, later ''Competition Series" models and Edlebrocks used the torx capped screws. I tried to buy a 500 CFM Carter AFB for a '68 292 Chevy L6 build, in 2004, but Edelbrock was by then, the only game in town for this style carb. So I now have a 1404.
On my '71 GMC Jimmy 4x4's V8 350, I run a Carter [Comp Series] 9605S AFB with 600 CFM. [= EDL 1405]. I prefer a manual choke, looks like the previous owner was of the opposite philosophy. As Nyman's Garage pointed out the factory 600 CFM w/ auto choke would've been a 1406.
The ''white stuff'' on the bottom of your accellerator spring was probably lead oxide deposits. That fuel became unavailable after the turn of the last century. Might give you an idea how long that carb sat.
When I'm doing a metering rod/jet change, I loosen and rotate the pear-shaped retaining ports. Moving them out by 120* you can usually access the rods and springs. I have to do this annually to lean out my 292 to pass emissions. After re-registration, we tune it back for performance. The Jimmy with a 350 is now emissions-exempt, as I have Year of Manufacture [1971] plates on it and Hagerty insurance.
I'm planning on rebuilding my friends Toyota Hilux carb, this video has been very insightful on what to expect, I really like how you explained how components work. Luke Wagner.
two completely diff carburetors do not use this video for that toy carburetor they have way more complexity to them then this has!
1405 is manual choke. 1406 is electric choke. The electric choke is an add on to that 1405. 1477 rebuild kit fits all edelbrocks.
Thank you so much! This is going to save me a load of time, headaches and aggravation!
i have found that a 7 / 32 float level gives you a good off idle response. the old instruction sheet will some times show a VERY wide rang of float level call outs on different models. so if you want to experimental try small changes.
Thanks a ton, truck is running better than ever!!
When I'm disassembling the carb, I lay out a long piece of tape. Masking or duct tape will work, but I like to use wrapping tape. I lay it out sticky side up, turning the ends under so it will stay in place on the table. Then I put the parts I remove on the tape in order, so bumping the table won't result in a disaster, as it might if they were just lying on the table loose.
Excellent video! Thank you for your camera skills and enunciation.
Was disassembling my Carter AFB and used purple power as a degreaser, *Big mistake*
The purple power ate through the grease and grime and parts of the aluminum.
When I pulled the carb out of the tank, white aluminum oxide Crystal's have formed wherever there was aluminum. The carb before had a aluminum clear shine but after the degreaser, the carb is now a dull matte black.
As a pre cautionary, use some pine sol, or carburetor cleaner in a bucket.
Just some tips from a rookie to help you avoid getting in the same situation.
Hey Bro, good video but AFB was actually factory equipment on 1965 Chevy Caprice, 327 300 hp. Up until a couple months ago it sat in a field in Wyoming for 30 years. I just completely rebuilt the engine, carbs the last thing.
Got one on my 67 Impala SS, 327 as well
A Carter was used on some 275/300hp 327 65-66 Chevys, however it was not the AFB. It was the AVS. Carb number is 4028S or 4028SA. It’s easily identifiable by the center rear fuel inlet. It is rated at 575 CFM. The AFB is the slightly older model and was mostly used on Mopar engines. Edelbrock acquired Carter when it folded up and began pricing the AFB as their Performer series carbs. They later because offering an AVS, which offers a few improvements and refinements over the AFB.
Carb gospel! Thank you for the great video!
I like the models right before Edelbrock bought the patents. They have a rivited "Carter" tag, just like Edelbrock uses. Drill and tap that unused boss and make it dual-feed.
Great video. UA-cam did you dirty with excessive ads.
Great video. I am ordering a carb kit for mine Today. Thanks
A quick point...When looking for a base point of the idle air adjustment screws and screwing in the screws becareful not to screw down the screws to tightly, you will deform the base of where the screws make contact or deform the screws them selves . Another way is to UN screw and count the rotations as the screws come out. This way no damage can result.
Ford had their own 4-barrel Autolite carb. Not saying it didn't happen, but I've never seen an AFB on a stock Ford motor. GM used zillions of the AFB's.
Not a big deal one way or the other, but I thought GM used zillions of Quadrajet (Rochester) and MOPAR used zillions of AFB (Carter).
Thanks! I'm gonna get started!!!
Very cool man, I did the same with a motorcraft double barrel
Use old wooden chop sticks sharpened to a chiseled edge to remove gaskets works great.
Thankyou! Very helpful 🤠
Got 3 of these I'm going to rebuild the last one I think I will modify just a little goin to watch this video a few time ,any tips on the modifying would be great thanks and Merry Christmas to you and your family have a good time
I could be mistaken Kyle but you did not put the accelerator pump linkage back in the same hole you removed it from during disassembly. Wouldn’t be a big deal except you made it a point to be sure to make note of it in part one. It appears you removed it from the top hole and installed it in the middle hole. So your A grade goes to a B+. 😬✌️
Come make sureclean the carburetor with cleaner and very excellent video nice keep up the good work 👍🎉🌈
In Canada the price is 750 for just a normal 1406
The numbers stamped to the right of the carb part / model number represent the date of manufacture of the carb, they are in Julian Date format.
Word of advice, remove the stud. I left mine in as I was following this video as I saw the air horn comes off with it still in there... not in mine. I thought it was just the gasket holding on for dear life and ended up bending part of my airhorn trying to get it separated.
Brilliant video.
You talk alot, but its ok cause i felt like i was right there with you. Thanks man! I think im gonna go for it. Hahah.
Sou brasileiro amo carro antigo posso trabalhar pra voce por conhecimento é aprendizado só preciso de uma casa e de comida ok
Edelbrock 1405 is manual choke.... 1406 is electrical choke
I was going to say the same thing. Someone put the electric choke kit on this carb.
My question to anyone on this thread is, does the 1405 have the linkages right where the choke would be? I don’t remember seeing any when I pulled it off my 70 buick skylark
No, you can get them in either configuration. The 1405 has better performance, the 1406 has better economy.
I have a 1405 I bought new and I installed an electric choke I removed from a 1406.
@@AustinHarmon1994 is that good or bad
Y'all don't like to soak the entire carburetor in a can, or bucket of carb cleaner overnight instead of just spraying it down?
Excellent!!!
Mantap from indonesia
Unfortunately for me. My carb would not split. So after hours of prying and spraying carb cleaner to assist it finally split shattering the top assembly because the center rod was holding down the assembly. It was not a straight through. I will need to but a new carburetor. For future videos you may want to get that out of the way so it does not happen to anyone else.
Thanks for the video
Was sorely disappointed to not find a timelapse
Will a Holley carburetor rebuild time-lapse suffice?
ua-cam.com/video/17W4DxY-ac8/v-deo.html
WHY???? WHAT WILL YOU LEARN FROM THAT???
@@Hagertyyes, but what if I've watched every single timelapse you guys have made already?? 😁
@@believecross1597 I see what you mean, but hagerty makes timelapses of rebuilds and I clicked on this thinking it was a rebuild timelapse cause I love them and I didnt read the whole title
@@jakeweg4886 thanks
Afb was on more Chrysler products than Fords!
And late 50's early 60s Corvettes used AFB's
@@JustRusting and cadillacs
How do I get the gasket off not doing it manually cause this gasket has been I swear welded on
Have you ever tried to make one of these blow thru
Thank you sir. Seven years she sat, and would only fire when primed with fuel... Until today 😉
Vroom vroom vroom vroom glug glug glug glug 😁
Where kind I find a rebuild kit for a 1406. Everyone that I found has very few parts in it. I ordered one and the gaskets and a couple other parts was all I could use.
I was thinking of replacing my OEM carter with a newer carb but dont know the CFM
my hint. dont remove the jets if you dont have to. if you have to. and they dont come out easy DONT force them. use a torch heat the jet till the flame changes color . then hit it with water. then let it cool. dont worry its way harder to melt the cast then you think.
Like father like son. no earthly idea on mechanics. You never call a half turn a full turn, you turn in increments of halves but you count in full turns. I am sure that if you keep at it and get the hell away from your dad, you will be brilliant. And also, that 1405 is manual.
I've rebuilt a bunch of Carter AFB's, AVS, Edelbrock, Holley's, etc and you are incorrect right out of the box....the Edelbrock 1405 is a hand-choke carb set up a bit richer than the electric choke 1406 carb....a bit hotter on the street......both are 600 cfm.
I have an Edelbrock 1405 and it’s a manual choke. Are you sure it’s not a 1406? The upper hole on the accelerator pump is for a larger carb (700+ cfm).
Excellent upload. Curious. my AFB is missing the ball bearing check valve does anyone at haggerty's know what size that may be? Thank you.
1405 is a manual choke that has been converted to have electric choke 1406 is the electric choke
What about pine sol to use as a carb cleaner?
Dale Donahue just go buy carb cleaner it’s like 3 bucks from any gas station
Works awesome.
My Carb is a Carter C4 -AFB 9636S .Would the edlebrock kit fit?
Cant separate tophalf from buttomhalf from a marine weber 9600s carburetor is there a secret, yes all the screws are out it won't break free from gasket @
I'd rather spend $300 and just get a new carburetor
I have a used Edelbrock carburetor the on a rebuilt 350 engine and the engine runs good but the carb only runs with the choke closed and will not run when its open and I checked for air leaks and there is none is there anyone that can help me... rebuild it or get another one?
Could you use a ultra sonic cleaner filled with carb cleaner to clean the carb parts?
Best way to clean carb parts is to place individual sections of the carb in zip loc bags. Soak with carb clean and remove all the air and seal up. Fill your lltrasonic cleaner full of hot water. And let go for an hour or so until clean. With the hundreds of carbs Thai I've overhauled. Comes out looking like new and the ultrasonic cleaner still is in perfect condition/ spotless clean.
Good !!! Im like you chanel 👌
A 1405 is manual choke.
Do you recommend rebuilding the carb still mounted to intake?
Really need to remove it to properly clean all the fine passageways
@@ebinmaine yes, as a matter of fact i just finished it yesterday , only problem is the rebuild kit I got of eBay didn’t have hardly any of the parts I needed. Mainly gaskets was I it had.
Always remove a carb to rebuild it.
Unless you like metal parts in your intake and heads
1405 is manual choke,. 1406 is the electric choke
how difficult is it to take it apart?
Can anyone tell me the name to the gasket at 25:38?
FORDs AFBs were on every 300hp 327 built.
I cringed when he flipped the lid over, my float bowl pin fell out along with the needle and disappeared into the lawn (spraying carb cleaner)...a magnet found the pin, eyeballed the needle...
This is a perfect example of an engineer explaining and working on something. I'm sure this guy has studied hard and is very knowledgeable about this, but there's no dirt under those finger nails; there's no confidence when he's splitting a seal. I believe what your telling me, but I don't respect how you're telling it.
he said was going to set the float level but never did
He said it was a popular carburetor on fords??? What fords?
@@jesseduke694 in fairness to him, every truck I've bought with a 351M 400 or a 460 has had a edelbrock swapped onto it.
Never tuned right, but an edelbrock none the less
I learned that my liver is screwed...but for real was slightly intimidated on the rebuild of my carb but after watching the video I think I can handle it. Thanks for the informative and slow steps, as some other videos with fast forward steps and quick talk was not helpful to me.
Not my cup of tea. .... Excellent video.
كويس صديق 🤓
Damn he's good looking
Your carb box say 1477 you said this unit is a 1405. Confused 🤷♂️
That's an Edelbrock part number for the rebuild kit not a carb number, it does most of their carbs based on the Carter AFB.
Can I send u mines to rebuild?? I have money buddy
👍🇮🇳🙏
يور ولكم صديق 🤓😂
41 minutes to disassemble a carburetor??? are you doing it with paperclips and a sledge hammer???
You could download it then speed it up 50 times faster then you could watch it in a minute.
It's the explanation and video work that extends this time out, I'm sure if he was trying to disassemble to carb more quickly he'd be capable of doing so