Detail: Create access to the cavities created by attic trusses.🙂 In the house live in, I have attic trusses above the garage creating a bonus room. In my case, the triangular attic volumes on either side of the bonus room are walled off on one side and to gain access to the other, you have to squeeze in over an HVAC distribution manifold where you are likely to get your scalp cut open by a roofing nail. After gaining access though, I notice no insulation on the bonus room walls or ceiling. Moral of the story, make those attic spaces accessible to the insulators during construction and provide access doors for later. I wish my builder had taken the expression "The devil is in the details." to heart.
Regarding the first detail- if you don't detach the garage, I like the idea of sheathing encapsulation of living space before framing the other zoned areas (garage) to it. Just takes a very small procedure or sequence change with typical framing techniques. Seen (and currently live in: thanks 1980's) plenty of houses where the garage air is the house air.
Looks great. Looks like some Tstuds going on. I used them in my personal house. Also using TimberHP 's TimberFill dense pack in my walls. I think they'll make a good combination. Thanks to Dan Edelman for all his help. Wesley the Dalmation and I still love keeping up with your videos here on UA-cam. Thank you for sharing all the good design ideas
Once the siding is on, the mudsill won’t affect how anything looks. As shown here, it’s just the bottom layer of mudsill that extends out so that it’s flush with the Zip sheathing. It doesn’t extend out any farther than that.
@@kc9scott I meant how thick it was beyond the face of a concrete foundation. Although if it was designed to be flushed with the foundation then you will lose square footage. It may look good with stone veneer on the foundation to fill out the space.
@@dustyh2371 Ah, I see what you mean. As long as the two layers of mudsill have the offset between them to stop bugs & rodents from burrowing into the foam, the placement of the combined mudsill relative to the concrete is pretty much just a choice for visual appearance. AFAIK the only requirements are that the siding not touch the concrete, and if there’s a rainscreen (hopefully), the water can travel straight down and out, without pooling on a horizontal surface. I think Steve likes the “pedestal” look, where the concrete foundation is set back a little from the siding. His 2011 Passive House was also done that way. That arrangment also helps reduce the amount of water running down the side of the concrete, and thus helps keep the water on the proper side (the outside) of the basement waterproofing.
@@kc9scott Agreed. That recessed foundation wall creates a shadow line that works well visually. Different materials need to be offset, not on the same plane.
I don’t like ha age depressions. I leave that area the is shown depressed out and then pour the drive up to the slab edge 3/4” down. It comes out clean and the garage door now shuts on this last little piece of driveways. You can epoxy the garage and it’s not showing on the front edge of the depression because it’s driveway
Great collaboration between homeowner, architect, and builder.
= Success
Detail: Create access to the cavities created by attic trusses.🙂
In the house live in, I have attic trusses above the garage creating a bonus room. In my case, the triangular attic volumes on either side of the bonus room are walled off on one side and to gain access to the other, you have to squeeze in over an HVAC distribution manifold where you are likely to get your scalp cut open by a roofing nail. After gaining access though, I notice no insulation on the bonus room walls or ceiling. Moral of the story, make those attic spaces accessible to the insulators during construction and provide access doors for later. I wish my builder had taken the expression "The devil is in the details." to heart.
Regarding the first detail- if you don't detach the garage, I like the idea of sheathing encapsulation of living space before framing the other zoned areas (garage) to it. Just takes a very small procedure or sequence change with typical framing techniques. Seen (and currently live in: thanks 1980's) plenty of houses where the garage air is the house air.
Agreed
Looks great. Looks like some Tstuds going on. I used them in my personal house. Also using TimberHP 's TimberFill dense pack in my walls. I think they'll make a good combination. Thanks to Dan Edelman for all his help. Wesley the Dalmation and I still love keeping up with your videos here on UA-cam. Thank you for sharing all the good design ideas
I think we may be the first TimberFill in virginia. Not sure.
@6:41 I've never seen so many nails at the bottom of the zip. Is there such a thing as too many nails?
IMO with a product such as Zip-R, no.
Detail for the down spout can be improved. Place a drainage grate under the down spout - that captures water from the down spout and surrounding grade
That storm water retention pond would be a real mosquito breeding ground for us in the south.
6:23 do you then tape this rabbeted corner?
Thanks Steve!
Thanks for joining in
Have any of your clients ever said they don't like the look of the thickness beyond the face of the foundation? What would be your alternate if so?
Once the siding is on, the mudsill won’t affect how anything looks. As shown here, it’s just the bottom layer of mudsill that extends out so that it’s flush with the Zip sheathing. It doesn’t extend out any farther than that.
@@kc9scott I meant how thick it was beyond the face of a concrete foundation. Although if it was designed to be flushed with the foundation then you will lose square footage. It may look good with stone veneer on the foundation to fill out the space.
@@dustyh2371 Ah, I see what you mean. As long as the two layers of mudsill have the offset between them to stop bugs & rodents from burrowing into the foam, the placement of the combined mudsill relative to the concrete is pretty much just a choice for visual appearance. AFAIK the only requirements are that the siding not touch the concrete, and if there’s a rainscreen (hopefully), the water can travel straight down and out, without pooling on a horizontal surface. I think Steve likes the “pedestal” look, where the concrete foundation is set back a little from the siding. His 2011 Passive House was also done that way. That arrangment also helps reduce the amount of water running down the side of the concrete, and thus helps keep the water on the proper side (the outside) of the basement waterproofing.
@@kc9scott Agreed. That recessed foundation wall creates a shadow line that works well visually. Different materials need to be offset, not on the same plane.
love the deets
Excellent
tHANKS FOR JOINING IN
Hi Steve, what about placing the sill plate in the middle of foundation wall, leaving enough space on concrete for zip sheating to sit on? Thank you
NEVER!!!!111111 Proving a great assembly for capillary action in the sheathing
I was gunna say that but in a less scientific way but you already said it. Nice
I don’t like ha age depressions. I leave that area the is shown depressed out and then pour the drive up to the slab edge 3/4” down. It comes out clean and the garage door now shuts on this last little piece of driveways.
You can epoxy the garage and it’s not showing on the front edge of the depression because it’s driveway