Boy, that newly acquired bench has turned out to be your daily driver. What a score! That is by far the best flaring tool I have ever seen. Decades ago we would have trouble splitting the ends.
Haha that is a great way to put it about the bench! It's crazy how much I use it now, definitely the best tool/shop equipment purchase in a long time! This Eastwood flaring tool has made brake lines way less of a headache.. I've had mine for over 10 years and it's ALWAYS lent out to friends haha.. it's seen a lot of brake tubing! -Matt/ITG
Great job on running the brake lines Matt, thanks for telling us about that line that you use and showing us how to use those great tools that you have to make the flares and the bends. Every step now just makes it more exciting and the End is near.. Thanks.....
Thanks for the video Matt, nice flaring tool my hand held flaring tool is a hit and miss. Its all about the right tools. Quality tools make life easier,fighting a job with the wrong tool can be a time consuming pain. Can't wait to see it going down the road.
Thanks Chuck, brakes are one thing I don't like to mess around with redoing line over and over again. This tool has been a worthy investment! -Matt/ITG
Nice work. You need to tell people to clean the lines after flaring to remove any lubricant so they don’t contaminate the brake fluid. Thanks for a great video.
I bought the same drill from Matco Tools in 1986. Still use it!! Chicago Pneumatic, when they were still made in the USA !! I`m new to your channel. Like your work. Simple,straight forward and fun !! SUBSCRIBED :D I have three `39 Fords. Two Standard Tudors and a Deluxe Coupe so i`ve always got something to do !!
Do you need to blow the metal brake lines out with compressed air before connecting them to the flexible lines to avoid contamination of the brake fluid? I am eagerly looking forward to the finished product.
I use Eastwood Injected Aerosol Cleaner to flush the lines. This was a dry test fit for the video. We need to disconnect the lines from the master cylinder to install the correct one so I'll do a final clean out before we tighten it all down. Thanks for watching! -Matt/ITG
Not really necessary, by the time it's plumbed, filled, and bled, that aerokroil lube will get flushed out easily. The trace amount in the system would be way too dilute to harm the internal rubber components.
Matt - a nitrous line bender will make tight ( like 1" radius I think) bends in 1/8" and 3/16 brake tube. I prefer to use stainless hardline, mostly because of the look and because I like to make things difficult for myself. Will take your advice on making patterns on my current build. I used to just buy a couple - three rolls of tube and freestyle until the system looked like I meant to do that
nice job on the lines. i prefer to make the lines before paint , then reinstall afterwards.. weld on all tabs and/or drill and tap beforehand too..... saves on paint chips and scratches
I agree it's better, but with the timeline of getting stuff done it didn't work out. If you're careful it's a non-issue really. Appreciate you watching and commenting! -Matt/ITG
Everyone is commenting on your fancy flaring tool. When I was a kid, we used river rocks and a hammer to flare tubing. You kids and your newfangled tools...Geez,I'm still learning how to use these interwebs! ;-]
Hi Harley. You can find links to the tools we use in the videos in the video description or you can go to Eastwood's site here: www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html?srccode=1VD5533
I'd forgotten about this video, with the upcoming work on the 39 tudor, I wanted to pass this on to you. Harbor freight sells a tubing bender that can do what your fancy Eastwood bender cannot. It makes beautiful tight 90° bends for those close to the fitting bends. It's super inexpensive, and did a decent job for me on my 40 pickup.
@@black88coupe no problem Mitchell, I bought mine not really expecting much from it, but I was pleasantly surprised with the results. I used the cupra-nickel lines and it worked really well. Best of luck.
That's a valid question.. my answer isn't very technical haha. But I feel Ford didn't seem to need them so I don't run them. Never had an issue running it this way. I'm sure there's a better solution.. I just go with what Ford did back in the day. -Matt/ITG
There should be a scale associated with those benders to tell you the gain in 45 degrees, 90 degrees and even a 180 degree bend. This gain is the amount you subtract from the measurements between bends. Total the gains from all gains and subtract from overall length . It's easy once you get used to it. There is a mark on your bender to aline with the length of resulting bend.
Nice flaring tool but needs better benders. One made just for that line. I bent lines for a living and bent hydraulic lines for machinery from 1/8 up to 1 1/4 and you better get the bend between bends correct or job looks unprofessional! Love when the boss admired it.
Matt, I highly recommend the 3/16 brake line pliers made by Lisle ( available online or at your local Napa). They make extremely tight bends without kinking th line. Best $20 you can spend. Awesome video content keep up the great work!! Roland
The best tubing benders that I have used for brake line work are made by Rigid. They are the only bender that I have found that will replicate that 180 bend on the rear caliper lines of a C3 Vette without flattening or kinking.
I have a great trick for you for straightening rolled brake line. Measure the length of the line needed for each section. Let's say the first section is 3 feet long. The next section is another 3 feet. Then front to back is 5 feet and your front cross section is a total of 9 feet. Add them all up = 20 feet. Add another foot or so for the trick and any OOOPS that may occur. So unroll the tubing and cut it to your length plus the extra. In this example it would be about 21 feet. Next bend over both ends by about an inch each. Now comes the fun part. Grab a buddy to help with this. With a good set of vise=grips, clamp down tight as you can on each end. Now find a solid place to put one vise-grip against. I use the block wall opening for my overhead door. Then pull a truck about 5 feet beyond the other end and break out the come-along. Hook it to your hitch on one end and put the vice-grip through the hook on the other end. While your buddy holds the first end tight to the solid surface, start cranking on the come-along and it will pull the tubing perfectly straight. Then start cutting off your needs from one end. DO NOT remove the other end as you may bow the line and need to back up the truck and do it again.. Continue cutting off the needed lengths till you have it all... This sounds like a lot of steps, but if you try it with a short piece first and see how easy and perfect the tubing is, you'll never do it any other way... This works on stainless as well as softer tubing... Eventually you may build a jug to hook to your tractor and use it's hydraulics. You only have to pull it a little to make it straight. Try it!!!
@@IronTrapGarage It's really not as bad as it sounds. I just gave you one idea on how to do it. You could easily make a small clamp on a bench leg close to the floor and make this a 1 person deal. The payoff is the perfect straight lines.
Great job on the running the lines, I just don't like the line running along the bottom of torque tube it is subject to being hit by road debris, but if you never road trip it, may not be a problem.
Thanks for watching! Re: the brake lines on the torque tube.. If something THAT large goes up under the car and damages the line I have BIG problems in addition to that brake line issue. Appreciate the feedback regardless! -Matt/ITG
Are there any concerns about creating "air traps" with any bends, or is it generally purged with the height of the reservoir above the line? I'm just thinking like a plumber, not a mechanic.
Yep, and I use Eastwood Injected Aerosol Cleaner: www.eastwood.com/aerosol-injected-cleaner-11-oz-net.html to flush them out. I usually do a last batch of that before I add any fluid. I need to swap out this master cylinder for the correct one so I should be able to do a final blow out to be 110% sure they're all clean of debris. Thanks for watching! -Matt/ITG
That’s how it was done stock but since my wishbones are split I didn’t want to have the line visible on the outside of the car so I went this way. I’m the oddball!
@@IronTrapGarage Hey Matt, nothing oddball the way you did it. Don't be hard on yourself. :) Your well thought out solutions have been great on this beautiful build and your fab skills are outstanding. Actually amazed me with that tranny cover....then taking on that turtle deck. Was your dad into cars. You had mentioned you picked up a lot around him in the shop. Glad I found your channel. I've really been enjoying getting caught up with what you are doing. Many thanks Matt!
I think he works there. If you go to the Eastwood UA-cam channel, you can see a video under the catagory of "Eastwood employee project" where Matt cleans and paints the free T flathead heads.
@@IronTrapGarage there's a mustang master cylinder that both bolts up to the pedal box, and is dual chamber( split front/rear). I did new system on my 40 pickup, but couldn't budget that eastwood flare tool! Used the old style hand type with the double flare buttons. Even with the cupranickel lines, I had to do a lot of flaring and cutting when they went wrong. The bending was the easy part, I'm a union electrician, I bend conduit all day, brake lines are just tiny conduits.
Boy, that newly acquired bench has turned out to be your daily driver. What a score! That is by far the best flaring tool I have ever seen. Decades ago we would have trouble splitting the ends.
Haha that is a great way to put it about the bench! It's crazy how much I use it now, definitely the best tool/shop equipment purchase in a long time! This Eastwood flaring tool has made brake lines way less of a headache.. I've had mine for over 10 years and it's ALWAYS lent out to friends haha.. it's seen a lot of brake tubing! -Matt/ITG
Great tip on using the tig wire for pattern making, as well as the string to get measurements. Very informative. I also liked the music.
Great job on running the brake lines Matt, thanks for telling us about that line that you use and showing us how to use those great tools that you have to make the flares and the bends. Every step now just makes it more exciting and the End is near.. Thanks.....
Thanks for watching Robbie! The right tools really makes the job easier! -Matt/ITG
Good video that’s the part I was struggling with was get in the bends in .. TIG rod is a good idea thx🔥💪🏽
Thanks for the video Matt, nice flaring tool my hand held flaring tool is a hit and miss. Its all about the right tools. Quality tools make life easier,fighting a job with the wrong tool can be a time consuming pain. Can't wait to see it going down the road.
Thanks Chuck, brakes are one thing I don't like to mess around with redoing line over and over again. This tool has been a worthy investment! -Matt/ITG
I have that flaring tool! I love using it!!!
It makes me so happy to use haha.. it's almost like cheating! -Matt/ITG
Nice work. You need to tell people to clean the lines after flaring to remove any lubricant so they don’t contaminate the brake fluid. Thanks for a great video.
Nice job and perfect timing for my project. One question if I may, how are you fixing the rear hard brake lines over the rear end to each drum brake?
How do you keep the brake fluid from running back to the master cylinder. Didn't see a residual valve.
Slick brake tools, time for me to upgrade. Nice job.
Nice job on the brake lines. love the copper nic line
I bought the same drill from Matco Tools in 1986. Still use it!! Chicago Pneumatic, when they were still made in the USA !! I`m new to your channel. Like your work. Simple,straight forward and fun !! SUBSCRIBED :D I have three `39 Fords. Two Standard Tudors and a Deluxe Coupe so i`ve always got something to do !!
Do you need to blow the metal brake lines out with compressed air before connecting them to the flexible lines to avoid contamination of the brake fluid?
I am eagerly looking forward to the finished product.
I use Eastwood Injected Aerosol Cleaner to flush the lines. This was a dry test fit for the video. We need to disconnect the lines from the master cylinder to install the correct one so I'll do a final clean out before we tighten it all down. Thanks for watching! -Matt/ITG
Not really necessary, by the time it's plumbed, filled, and bled, that aerokroil lube will get flushed out easily. The trace amount in the system would be way too dilute to harm the internal rubber components.
Matt - a nitrous line bender will make tight ( like 1" radius I think) bends in 1/8" and 3/16 brake tube. I prefer to use stainless hardline, mostly because of the look and because I like to make things difficult for myself. Will take your advice on making patterns on my current build. I used to just buy a couple - three rolls of tube and freestyle until the system looked like I meant to do that
Never heard of that bender I’ll look into it! Thanks for watching! -Matt/ITG
nice job on the lines. i prefer to make the lines before paint , then reinstall afterwards.. weld on all tabs and/or drill and tap beforehand too..... saves on paint chips and scratches
I agree it's better, but with the timeline of getting stuff done it didn't work out. If you're careful it's a non-issue really. Appreciate you watching and commenting! -Matt/ITG
That is a nice flaring tool from east wood.
Everyone is commenting on your fancy flaring tool. When I was a kid, we used river rocks and a hammer to flare tubing. You kids and your newfangled tools...Geez,I'm still learning how to use these interwebs! ;-]
You were privileged to have an actual hammer then. Must of been one of the rich kids! :p -Matt/ITG
Where is that flare tool available
Hi Harley. You can find links to the tools we use in the videos in the video description or you can go to Eastwood's site here: www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html?srccode=1VD5533
What are you using for 1/2” aluminum tube for AN fittings that need a 37 degree flare. Can you do that in the tool you have?
I'd forgotten about this video, with the upcoming work on the 39 tudor, I wanted to pass this on to you. Harbor freight sells a tubing bender that can do what your fancy Eastwood bender cannot. It makes beautiful tight 90° bends for those close to the fitting bends. It's super inexpensive, and did a decent job for me on my 40 pickup.
Details on the bender? Thanks.
@@black88coupe check your store, or go on their website. It's a simple hand bender, blue in color, I think that it was 10 bux.
@@markk3652 Thank you
@@black88coupe no problem Mitchell, I bought mine not really expecting much from it, but I was pleasantly surprised with the results. I used the cupra-nickel lines and it worked really well. Best of luck.
@@markk3652 Thanks. I have a decent variety of tools but it never hurts to add to the arsenal.
It's really coming together so nice
Matt, Do you not need check valves inline given that your MC is lower than you wheel cylinders.
That's a valid question.. my answer isn't very technical haha. But I feel Ford didn't seem to need them so I don't run them. Never had an issue running it this way. I'm sure there's a better solution.. I just go with what Ford did back in the day. -Matt/ITG
Do you think rubber lines are better?
There should be a scale associated with those benders to tell you the gain in 45 degrees, 90 degrees and even a 180 degree bend. This gain is the amount you subtract from the measurements between bends. Total the gains from all gains and subtract from overall length . It's easy once you get used to it. There is a mark on your bender to aline with the length of resulting bend.
Nice flaring tool but needs better benders. One made just for that line. I bent lines for a living and bent hydraulic lines for machinery from 1/8 up to 1 1/4 and you better get the bend between bends correct or job looks unprofessional! Love when the boss admired it.
Matt, I highly recommend the 3/16 brake line pliers made by Lisle ( available online or at your local Napa). They make extremely tight bends without kinking th line. Best $20 you can spend. Awesome video content keep up the great work!! Roland
Thanks for the suggestion Roland I'll take a look for those next time I'm over at a Napa! -Matt/ITG
Awesome shop & toys in there brotha.. I'm jealous
Nice job Matt, the chassis looks beautiful
The best tubing benders that I have used for brake line work are made by Rigid. They are the only bender that I have found that will replicate that 180 bend on the rear caliper lines of a C3 Vette without flattening or kinking.
Very cool, I'll take a look into those.. thanks for sharing! -Matt/ITG
Nice brake plumbing job 💪
Thanks Herby! -Matt/ITG
That flare tool would be so handy wish I could fine something like that over here
They are definitely worth the money! -Matt/ITG
@@IronTrapGarage yeah mite be something I'll differently be looking into
I have a great trick for you for straightening rolled brake line. Measure the length of the line needed for each section. Let's say the first section is 3 feet long. The next section is another 3 feet. Then front to back is 5 feet and your front cross section is a total of 9 feet. Add them all up = 20 feet. Add another foot or so for the trick and any OOOPS that may occur. So unroll the tubing and cut it to your length plus the extra. In this example it would be about 21 feet. Next bend over both ends by about an inch each. Now comes the fun part. Grab a buddy to help with this. With a good set of vise=grips, clamp down tight as you can on each end. Now find a solid place to put one vise-grip against. I use the block wall opening for my overhead door. Then pull a truck about 5 feet beyond the other end and break out the come-along. Hook it to your hitch on one end and put the vice-grip through the hook on the other end. While your buddy holds the first end tight to the solid surface, start cranking on the come-along and it will pull the tubing perfectly straight. Then start cutting off your needs from one end. DO NOT remove the other end as you may bow the line and need to back up the truck and do it again.. Continue cutting off the needed lengths till you have it all... This sounds like a lot of steps, but if you try it with a short piece first and see how easy and perfect the tubing is, you'll never do it any other way... This works on stainless as well as softer tubing... Eventually you may build a jug to hook to your tractor and use it's hydraulics. You only have to pull it a little to make it straight. Try it!!!
That’s a very involved but ingenious trick! Thanks for sharing
@@IronTrapGarage It's really not as bad as it sounds. I just gave you one idea on how to do it. You could easily make a small clamp on a bench leg close to the floor and make this a 1 person deal. The payoff is the perfect straight lines.
Great job on the running the lines, I just don't like the line running along the bottom of torque tube it is subject to being hit by road debris, but if you never road trip it, may not be a problem.
Thanks for watching! Re: the brake lines on the torque tube.. If something THAT large goes up under the car and damages the line I have BIG problems in addition to that brake line issue. Appreciate the feedback regardless! -Matt/ITG
Where and what is the best companyto buy this type brake line ? Thanks in advance
I get all of my brake line supplies at Eastwood. They have this copper nickel line I used here
Terrific tutorial, thanks, good work as usuak, always enjoy your videos.
Thanks for watching, I know there's a million ways to tackle this job, but this is just how I do it. -Matt/ITG
You do it very well.
Ya know its getting close when you're down to brake lines !
I can't wait for the Free T vs Pagoda City Coupe Drag Race & Burn out Comp !!
The engine going in the T is NASTY. It’ll win hands down!
Why would you mount the fitting over the corner of the third member ?
Are there any concerns about creating "air traps" with any bends, or is it generally purged with the height of the reservoir above the line? I'm just thinking like a plumber, not a mechanic.
A brake system is highly pressurized it don't much care! haha. -Matt/ITG
I love the music!
Nice flare tool...
It's the cat's meow! -Matt/ITG
Who makes that tubing bender?
Matt, do you blow the new lines with compressor air to insure clearing debris? Just didn’t see that !
Yep, and I use Eastwood Injected Aerosol Cleaner: www.eastwood.com/aerosol-injected-cleaner-11-oz-net.html to flush them out. I usually do a last batch of that before I add any fluid. I need to swap out this master cylinder for the correct one so I should be able to do a final blow out to be 110% sure they're all clean of debris. Thanks for watching! -Matt/ITG
Before using you TIG wire for a bend pattern, mark it 1" or even 1/2" with a marker so you don't have to use the string.
Thank you 👍👍👍
I ran mine down the wishbones with rivnuts to mount the line clamps to. Turned out well I thought
That’s how it was done stock but since my wishbones are split I didn’t want to have the line visible on the outside of the car so I went this way. I’m the oddball!
@@IronTrapGarage Hey Matt, nothing oddball the way you did it. Don't be hard on yourself. :) Your well thought out solutions have been great on this beautiful build and your fab skills are outstanding. Actually amazed me with that tranny cover....then taking on that turtle deck. Was your dad into cars. You had mentioned you picked up a lot around him in the shop.
Glad I found your channel. I've really been enjoying getting caught up with what you are doing. Many thanks Matt!
👍🏼. Crunch time.
Enjoy your videos. What is your connection with Eastwood ?
I think he works there. If you go to the Eastwood UA-cam channel, you can see a video under the catagory of "Eastwood employee project" where Matt cleans and paints the free T flathead heads.
cool job bummer with m/cyl just have to go old school and overhaul an original at least you will know what u have once again great how to vid
Thanks Tony!
@@IronTrapGarage there's a mustang master cylinder that both bolts up to the pedal box, and is dual chamber( split front/rear). I did new system on my 40 pickup, but couldn't budget that eastwood flare tool! Used the old style hand type with the double flare buttons. Even with the cupranickel lines, I had to do a lot of flaring and cutting when they went wrong. The bending was the easy part, I'm a union electrician, I bend conduit all day, brake lines are just tiny conduits.
Shame on you for showing that gorgeous flaring tool to a tool-a-holic like me! It gave me a permanent woodie and I HAVE to have one!
Haha we’re all addicts here! You won’t regret it! -Matt/ITG
Love it very helpful
Why is the cameraman behind someone so often?? Some description of the tools used and where to buy would help. Excellent work though
The intro music sounds like 'The Mutants'.
eastwood has a brake line forming tool part #49074 that is great for bending tubing on the car check it out
👍
👍👍👍😕
for sure, u DEFinitely want to b high :p