After the first or 2nd bend, I tape the 2 lines together in 2 different places where the bends are then I use different size sockets in a vice to do the rest of the bends.
does the degree of the bend really matter?I ask because my brake lines are completely destroyed and I don't have nothing to compare the bend toso I figured as long as it doesn't crease and it connects fine it should be okay? what do you think any help thank you in advance
I mean these tools are OK, but they're still limited in scope. Particularly if you need multiple bends in close proximity. I should also point out that it makes a difference if you're running new brake lines on a frame off restoration vs. replacing brake lines on a car that's complete. I bought nickel-copper brake line at the strong suggestion of others because it's much easier to bend. This is true. However, I've discovered that it's equally easier to unbend. Particularly, if you have to run your line in cramped and confined spaces and things like an engine and transmission are in the way. It's really easy to mess up all the nice bends you spent an hour making.
Just so I know this is for classic cars only? Is it cause now a days the tubing already comes pre bended for todays cars? Also what does kinking mean? Like does it mean cracking or bending
In this case "kinking" refers to when the tube is bent so tightly that it collapses. This can lead to either severe/complete flow restriction, or a crack and a leak in the tube. Take a drinking straw and slowly bend it. When it 'snaps' that is the "kink" that is mentioned here. As for pre-bent tubing, it does exist, but is more expensive. Unless the ends are something special I prefer bending my own. Tube itself is cheap and tools are not all the much either.
Very helpful thank you. I have to replace a brake hardline because the wrenchable portion on the threaded fitting that connects to the softline is stripped and seized and i cant get it undone to replace the rubber hose with my new steel braided line. I got the line at the local auto store and ordered a bend/flare/cutting kit and didnt know how to use it
the R is for reverse bend. Use this mark when you need to make a 90° bend with the tail end of the tubing latched in the bender instead of the lead. L is the 60° mark. And 0 is the zero mark.
This like so many of these is condescending those that are interesting in doing this are mechanical enough to understand the fucking tool and what the degrees mean it does not require you to explain it.
Just making sure that you know you watched an educational video intended for automotive novices titled "D I Y : How to Bend Your Brake or Fuel Lines" and then complained that they t h o r o u g h l y explained every detail like a professional instructor to a D.I.Y. novice. damn.
It often helps to mount the bender in a vise, as a third hand. Nice vid thanks.
thanks for such thorough explanation on crafting these critical components. definitely helpful to novice car guys.
Nice video. Especially about the mark lining up with 0 to know the direction of the bend and not band it backwards
Nice clear instructions. This helped me with my 98 Explorer. Thanks!
Nice video. You should have put the bender in a vise, would have been much easier to work with and watch. What are the R & L marks for?
A smashing presentation. Thank you.
After the first or 2nd bend, I tape the 2 lines together in 2 different places where the bends are then I use different size sockets in a vice to do the rest of the bends.
does the degree of the bend really matter?I ask because my brake lines are completely destroyed and I don't have nothing to compare the bend toso I figured as long as it doesn't crease and it connects fine it should be okay? what do you think any help thank you in advance
Such a helpful video thank you
Thanks!Very helpful.
sweet! Wish I looked this up before I bent/ruined a bunch of brake line.
Thank you for a Great video.
Thx excellent teacher from a retired teacher {-;
Good instructive video-Thank you
Cool....thanks. Always wanted to know how easy/difficult this would be.
I mean these tools are OK, but they're still limited in scope. Particularly if you need multiple bends in close proximity. I should also point out that it makes a difference if you're running new brake lines on a frame off restoration vs. replacing brake lines on a car that's complete. I bought nickel-copper brake line at the strong suggestion of others because it's much easier to bend. This is true. However, I've discovered that it's equally easier to unbend. Particularly, if you have to run your line in cramped and confined spaces and things like an engine and transmission are in the way. It's really easy to mess up all the nice bends you spent an hour making.
Just so I know this is for classic cars only? Is it cause now a days the tubing already comes pre bended for todays cars? Also what does kinking mean? Like does it mean cracking or bending
In this case "kinking" refers to when the tube is bent so tightly that it collapses. This can lead to either severe/complete flow restriction, or a crack and a leak in the tube. Take a drinking straw and slowly bend it. When it 'snaps' that is the "kink" that is mentioned here.
As for pre-bent tubing, it does exist, but is more expensive. Unless the ends are something special I prefer bending my own. Tube itself is cheap and tools are not all the much either.
Not a very good example, no mention of the R & L on the bender.
What bender is that??
Thanks for share :)
Very helpful thank you. I have to replace a brake hardline because the wrenchable portion on the threaded fitting that connects to the softline is stripped and seized and i cant get it undone to replace the rubber hose with my new steel braided line. I got the line at the local auto store and ordered a bend/flare/cutting kit and didnt know how to use it
Good man!
What's the O R L stand for
the R is for reverse bend. Use this mark when you need to make a
90° bend with the tail end of the tubing latched in the bender instead of the lead. L is the 60° mark. And 0 is the zero mark.
That was good. I still don't know the meaning of the R and L marks.
@Paul Martin it's about height of the curve, don't know the specifics
How do I bend a curve.
Thanks for that. Now I see what I have been doing wrong when I kink/ crush the tube every time ...I think 😁.
Крутая штука.. Но проще вокруг трубы дюймовой накручивать))))
we need more timelaps videos .
👍👍👍👍👍👍
Break lines are easy to bend . I use my fingers
Kinda reminds me of Linus lol
This like so many of these is condescending those that are interesting in doing this are mechanical enough to understand the fucking tool and what the degrees mean it does not require you to explain it.
Just making sure that you know you watched an educational video intended for automotive novices titled "D I Y : How to Bend Your Brake or Fuel Lines" and then complained that they t h o r o u g h l y explained every detail like a professional instructor to a D.I.Y. novice. damn.
Engir - use punctuation much?