Fitting the Oil Breather Plate. Rebuilding Your Air-Cooled Porsche Engine
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- In this lesson, we cover the oil breather plate. Because the magnesium case was closed and honed the cover plate is now tight. To relieve this plate we drill out the holes from 6.5mm to 7mm. After drilling, we dress the bottom till it is flat.
We add a few more bits and pieces to the case and in the next episode, we look at the oil thermostat.
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7mm drill bit, amzn.to/3q0jgxw
60 grit sandpaper, amzn.to/3repUlf
Truly an inspiration. I have been an engineer for years and have recently built a beetle 1500 engine, you have made me want to build an air cooled porsche engine. Simple to follow, clear and enjoyable, amazing
Thanks John,
Kurt
These videos are fantastic! I am so happy to have found your channel. owner of a 1972 911E
Glad you like them!
Thanks for watching
Thanks again! I did this step today. Although my "complete" gasket kit was missing this one as well as the oil thermostat o ring. I did use your exact method for testing the thermostat as well. I'll switch to the oil bypass spring video next.
Hopefully whoever you bought the gasket set from was able to send you the missing gasket and seal quickly
Thank you awesome video !
Thanks
Amazing. Also here in Germany, you will not find a more detailed 911 engine revision. Hope you will go on with the all the necessary steps. It‘s a book of knowledge for all restoration fans.
We will carry on! Up next Oil Thermostat testing and install. Check out our website for more tech info. www.klassikats.com ,Thanks for watching.
Thanks again for the great video, as well as for the ones covering the oil thermostat and pressure and safety valve installation. It seems the torque spec for installing the oil pressure sender adapter (M18x1.5) into the case is another spec missing from the factory shop manual. In my engine (88 Carrera, aluminum case) the same adapter is used for mounting the oil pressure switch. I don't want to use the spec for the pressure relief/safety plugs since the adapter has much reduced threaded length. The torque spec for the 8 inner chain guide rail bolts and the breather plate are also missing from the factory manual/spec books. You may have noticed, it's very easy to find widely varying torque recommendations in the various printed aftermarket manuals. I'm afraid some of these might be just "made-up".
Mark,
So, Porsche information builds upon itself, and just having the 3.2L supplement may not give you all the information you need. For the oil pressure sender unit, the torque spec is located in the toolbox handbook on page 62, and it is "No More than 35 NM".
When it comes to the other fasteners, you were asking about Porsche blankets, un-named individual fasteners by thier thread size. So what you will see in the handbooks are things like "All bolts on crankcase and camshaft housing" followed by the size "M6 - 10NM", "M8 - 25NM", M10 - 35NM".
Instead of looking for the item, for example, the chain rail bolts, you just match the thread size, "M10" which gives you the tightening torque. Factory training on how to use the manuals also helps with this as we were all taught what tightening torques to use based on thread size and bolt strength. The shop manual is designed to give specific torque values on those items that require something special or are not in line with standard torque values.
Hope that helps
Kurt
PS: sorry for my late reply.
love your videos well explain and details. and with my poor experience I learnt that: always put some paste for multi joint plan. so between crankshaft cases and the gasket of the cover. U said no needs, but I'm pretty sure it's necesary. (sorry for my english)
Seb,
Thanks for your kind comments. When it comes to using sealant on a gasket it is not necessary as the gasket is the sealer. However for the gasket to work correctly the mounting surfaces must be clean and flat. Surfaces that are distorted from years of use and/or mechanics with heavy hands and over-tightening of fasteners should always be flattened before re-installation. There are a few instances when I will use a very small amount of Loctite 574, this is usually when there is corrosion present on the sealing surface and it cannot be corrected by machining. Usually when completing a repair in the car and not doing a complete overhaul.
Thanks for watching
Of all things, I have questions about the lifting hook. 🙃 That single stud is sufficient to carry the weight of the fully assembled engine?! Are there any engines / cars where it could cause interference? Ours is a 1970 914-6 (aka 1969 911T) for example. I found a part number 901-101-151-00 for sale, but am not seeing it in the factory parts catalog applicable to 914 or early 911. As always thanks for taking time to respond to comments.
The lifting hook is only carrying half the weight of the engine as the factory lifting tool also connects to the front carrier. Yes and 8mm stud is more than enough to carry that weight. The only issue I could see with installing it on a 914/6 would be it might get in the way of being able to see the timing marks. Other than that I dont see any other issues.
Kurt