BMW S85 Rod Bearing Replacement DIY Part 1 (2005-2010 BMW M5 & M6 Rod Bearing Replacement)
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- Опубліковано 10 лип 2024
- ►The BMW S85 V10 is one of the gnarliest sounding engines to ever leave the M-Division. They took inspiration from BMW's then F1 team and put together an absolute screamer of a powerplant. With 500 horsepower on tap, the E60 M5 and E63/64 M6 were the kings of the performance luxury sedan and coupes. However, the S85 has a chronic issue that isn't a quick fix. As with so many BMWs since the turn of the millennia, the S85 was built to be high revving and contained smaller bearings than might have been needed. Combined with a soft bearing material, the S85 has a penchant for destroying its rod bearings.
For the uninitiated, the rod bearings sit between the connecting rod and the crankshaft to provide a smooth and friction-free surface during operation. The connecting rods are bolted to a journal on the crankshaft. As the crankshaft rotates, so too does the journal inside the connecting rod. The bearing is there to interact with the oil and keep the crankshaft journal happy as it rotates inside the connecting rod. The original lead-based bearings were too susceptible to damage, as BMW later found out, and could wear out as early as 30,000-miles with a lead-footed driver. New Bi-Metal aluminum bearings were fitted to the engines in 2010 but by that time, five years' worth of models had already hit the roads.
To BMW's credit, they made the operating procedure of any S85 equipped very clear. The engine needed significant warm-up time before any sort of aggression could be applied, and a specific oil weight was required. Many owners ignored the warnings, but even those who did suffer from issues. Replacement is not a small job, as the entire bottom of the engine and many of the front ancillaries have to be removed. Just getting to the engine requires dropping the front subframe and all of the suspension attached to it. A dealership charges 55 hours to complete the job, and with the cost of parts, it can total well into the five-figure range.
Tackling the BMW S85 rod bearing replacement yourself is a very involved and critical job that can end with a destroyed engine if done wrong. However, with our kit and some instruction by Gareth, you'll have all the instructions and parts for the job. Our kit comes with every part you'd need to tackle the job yourself, including the updated Bi-metal bearings.
Watch BMW S85 Rod Bearing Replacement DIY Part 2 Here: • BMW S85 Rod Bearing Re...
Buy this BMW S85 rod bearing kit at FCP Euro here: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-...
00:00 - Intro
02:46 - BMW S85 Rod Bearing Replacement Tools Needed
06:23 - BMW S85 Rod Bearing Replacement Job Start/Airbox Removal
08:54 - BMW S85 Rod Bearing Replacement Fan Removal
10:33 - BMW S85 Rod Bearing Replacement Undertray Removal
12:17 - BMW S85 Rod Bearing Replacement Lower Suspension Components Removal
16:53 - BMW S85 Rod Bearing Replacement Engine Support Procedure & Engine Mount Removal
18:03 - BMW S85 Rod Bearing Replacement Subframe Removal
22:01 - BMW S85 Rod Bearing Replacement Oil Drain
23:35 - BMW S85 Rod Bearing Replacement Oil Pan Removal
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Check out part two here: ua-cam.com/video/eD6QkDPGULY/v-deo.html
whoever tries this job DIY - I salute you
Done it twice! It's not actually not too bad
@@ajjohnson7940 On the same car?
@@Elaba_ Yep, first time was preventative and second time I was already in there for a VANOS pump so I figured might as well
@@112hounddog Are improved rod bearings available? If so, do you think it helped?
@@Elaba_ Improved bearings are available but they don't make too much of a difference, at the end of the day, just make sure the oil is at operating temp before revving above 2.5k-3k and you're fine.
Hahaha, the amount of tools needed for this job are more than my entire tool collection, still, very grateful with you guys who are willing to share your knowledge, tips and tricks.
Its quite a few ^.^
What a beast…. A lot of over the head work 😅😅 dude deserves a shoulder rub from a nice lady for keeping that S85 on the road! Legendary
We slapped some icyhot on him after this one.
I've been shopping with FCP since I've had my first BMW and am now on my third. The support is second-to-none and the fact that they put out DIY videos on the common and major repairs for these cars make the company that much more valuable to enthusiasts.
Appreciate your support Adonnys, glad we can help your BMW addiction ;-)
@@fcpeuro I could use some help, though. I bought some sway bar links a little while ago, never got to install them cuz of being busy. When I finally opened the box the day I was going to do the job, I realize I received a Guibo instead. How would I go about getting that exchanged?
Gareth making a living on BMW. His life is set at FCP as they constantly break in every category including body.
You said it, not us!
In italian speaks "bronzine" and it's a routine job for the S85.👌🔥🚀
basic S85 maintenance
About to tackle this on my friends E60! Perfect timing
We knew you had it coming up Arthur, just wanted to help out 😁
The tools alone cost more than the engine. The engine itself has sooo many parts how do you even have the balls to take it apart. Respect to you
Agreed, this is a big job! I worked on this job today from 10am-5pm and I'm only half done with my 2006 BMW M5 S85. The subframe has been removed. Lots of extra things that are connected to the oil pan and subframe that most videos will not show. Take your time and watch closely for anything connected to the parts you are removing. Breaking something will mean a trip to the hardware store that may not have what you need...then you will find yourself ordering parts and waiting up to another month. I had not done this but a good warning. Oh, and get two other assistants to help.
Do you need to remove the sub frame entirely, or is it possible to lower the sub frame enough to be able to get the oil pan off?
Hello from South Africa 🇿🇦.
Best DIY video I have seen, with regard to this marmot of a job.
subbed and looking forward to more videos
Great video!
Im gonna like this video, this is golden!! you guyz dont realise what this video means for car enthusiast..I, in the name of all e60 m5 owners and dreamers, thank you sir!
Holy crap that’s a lot of work!
Finally after long wait...
everyone's been waiting on this one... we know
Thanks for this video, would help other potential owners to understand. We personally bought from. FCP Euro a few years ago, more parts than on this video. Engine mounts, replace also some of the control arms. We also eventually did the clutch, flywheel, etc… a few weeks after, pretty much we spent on FCP Euro parts 25% cost of car. Btw this means if we replace ours again we can just swap the all the parts again… lifetime warranty 😂
Smart way of doing it Jun, you essentially warrantied the entire car mechanically now!
Great series. Nice editing and details. Love the graphics with the tool sizes and quantities. This task is ahead of me with my e60 M (lead levels are elevating in oil analysis ->125k miles :) ) This series will help me get it done right. Thanks
Let us konw how it goes Big FiSh , glad we could help!
@@fcpeuro Update: Bearing kit (and more) ordered and received from FCP. I'm going with ACL .004 bearings. There are no negative comments online from those that have installed them. I'm to the point of the end of this video. I completed this solo taking my time. One thing I did differently was on the power steering lines. You only need to remove the 19MM banjo bolt. You can leave the 22mm banjo and leave the 2 brackets for the power steering lines to the sway bar supports - if you do this you then have to remove the power steering line from the cooler, but it is a quick disconnect. Also noticed the middle subframe bolts have a slot in the subframe. That makes sense that you can loosen them and remove the other 4, then slide the subframe back to release it. I did it like the video and supported with a jack then lowered. I love working on BMW's. So thoughtful. Again great video. I'm on to part 2 tomorrow and beyond.
Excelllent
Great video, here in the U.K. The parts are much cheaper.
Non-rounding hex bit? More info please!
Some great work here! Thanks.
?: Do you need to secure the steering wheel in the cabin when disconnecting the steering rack from the column??
You are welcome Mario!
Not necessarily. you could as insurance, however you can also paint mark the two ends to allow for easy lineup during reinstallation.
Engine mounts is also a have to do when you attack the rod bearings
Definitely worth doing at the same time for sure.
Why use original spec rod bearings if they were not right in the first place? Isn't there a better set with better tolerances?
Gareth, can you do a rod bearing video for the S65? I need to do mine 😁
It's on his agenda to do it!
17:35 "it's gonna be pretty ugly.." 😄 🤣 😂 😆 that would probably be the worst day of your life!!
I've heard that it wasn't just the material on these that caused premature failure, but the tolerance as well. Apparently the tolerances were too tight? I've seen people opening them up a little more with good results. Seems BMW has had issues with bearings for a while, even the N63 had issues.
Yes BMW, a legacy automaker has trouble engineering the basic principles of what makes an engine run. Who would’ve thought
how come the bearings fail? and I've not heard of a high pressure oil pump before, why didn't they just use a conventional sump pump?
When you have a big V10 like the s85 with a high rev limit, bearings like this become a wear item.
You guys should have a tool kit to go with the Rod bearing kit 🙃
🥶👏🏾
How much is the kit
How long did this job take you up to this point? Thanks for taking the time to do all of this.
2.5 hours or so. I could probably do it in half the time without filming or explaining what's happening.
@@GarethFoley you something else Brother, amazing work you are the best
@@rayjay1753 Thank you.
only half an hr to do this job?? cant wait to try this out
yaaaaa give or take a few hours 😁
If these are the oem bearings arent they gonna have the same issue eventually because the clearances are too tight?
I was wondering the same thing.. because I'm planning on upgrading mine to VAC
@@DCpage amd its been crikets here for 2 months. Looks like a job for a deeper google search🙄
Fuck that that’s too much lol
Thanks Gareth
Its a bit much lol
What does a shop charge for this big work? Just curious!
About £200-£400 labour here in the UK nothing at all really, it’s peanuts. I mean for my SMG gearbox and clutch removal and replacement I only paid £200 labour. Just find good back foreign garages and avoid the big garages with a lot of English folk, they will rip you off. Foreign labour all the way don’t give them your money ! Foreign do it cheap as they don’t pay taxes here and £200-£400 will convert in there country to like 3 months wages.
$2200-2500. 8-12 hrs of labor. Also add mount mounts and $200 for the Oil Change. Wouldn't use BMW OEM Rod Bearings which are defective (clearances too tight). Use ARP Bolts instead of BMW OEM bolts, which stretch and have to be torqued a special. ARP Bolts are torque like a normal bolt.
$3000 including fluids we charge at the shop.
God bless you sir
@@seikoandora6485 that is expensive ! How are you even in buisness ? I feel sorry for the American folk who pay that kind of rate, no wonder bmw have a bad name over there. You can source all parts on trade for under £700 with all liquids , acl bearing , arp bolts , sump gasket for £700 plus labour £200-£400 and it’s a cheap job. Your making these cars more expensive then needed. You should be charging cheap labour rates to make these cars affordable for everyone, this is not a hard job and if focused on this job instead of others you should be charging no more then that price. Be warned anyone who sees this stay clear of these garages do not overpay labour costs your bassically burning your money. If you like doing that take a lighter and throw it in the air on fire. Do not make garages rich find someone who is from another country who will do it cheap labour that’s how you push garages out and that’s how garages collapse. Use a mobile mechanic or someone who appreciates the value of money and what it can equate too in there country.
I’m in the middle of pulling my S85 to do an entire lower end rebuild. Not my first time but this video is helpful anyways.
Bmw tech are not getting paying enought
Let me know if you guys need an S62 to make a video like this one so I can volunteer my car, lol!
Oh No!! You didn't go there. S65/S85 Rod Bearings! BMW changed the material in 2010-11 from copper-lead to harder aluminum-tin. For 2008-2010 M3/M5/M6 models you were able to do an oil analysis via Blackstone to look for excess copper, indicating that the lead surface coating has worn and you are down to the copper.
BONUS: Add new OE motor mounts. They are hydraulic (oil filled) and collapse after 80k-120k miles. You will feel excess vibration in the steering wheel if the motor mounts are shot. When you get an oil change, look at the clearance in the gap between the belly pan and the oil pan near the drain plugs....if there is very little clearance on either side or both sides, the the mount mounts have collapsed. They will look like a squashed cupcake and might be leaking oil.
Great tips and info nycshelbygt500 !
Why not improved parts ?
For this job specifically, the owner wanted to stick with OE parts.
If I send fcp my s85 can Gareth rebuild it on video LOL.. no serious can he?
lol now I know…buy an s85 with the work already done
I really don't get the American's ALL repeating this term "rod bearings". A connecting rod (or con-rod) has 2 ends, 1 x big, and 1 x little... and you are replacing the BIG-END bearings in this video.
Damn homies getting old.
Have made my decision to never own an S85 🤣
Looks easy… 🤣
Just a few steps in this one, easy mode.
Wow, how much would it cost to do it at the BMW dealer?
Moral of the story don’t buy a old m5 or m6 👍🏼