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Hey man, I know it's an old video, but I wanna say THANK YOU for making this video. I drove my Integra from LA to Oregon, and some of the teeth on my timing belt decided they didn't wanna stay for the trip anymore. Had to get her towed to an AutoZone and did the belt change in the parking lot. Took me 4.35hrs, but got her done and made it home to Oregon. You helped me save a lot of money..thank you!
Same thing happened to me last night gunna try an put a belt,pump an tensioner on it just hope pistons didn't contact the valves sucks I'm down about it lol
very helpful and good quality video, not only did you give me more info than i needed, you also got a very good camera angle on most of the stuff i could not find. thanks a bunch man.
Thank you very informative video I want to help my friend with his car doing the same job and I learned a lot by just watching this and listening to you very good job
love your videos , best walk through by far, already replaced my clutch thanks to another one of your videos time to work on the other side of the block now ! definitely will be using this as a reference much appreciated 🙏
ppett1 opps 1997-2001 Also - This heavy mass impact socket is helpful for getting that crank pulley bolt off if you have an impact wrench- Lisle 77080 19 mm Harmonic Balancer Socket for Honda
Man...I would always remove the whole power steering pump and put it aside w/bungee cord..your way with a piece of hose in it is genius!!!love all your vids man especially all the honda related ones...Oh and by the way I charged my a/c in my gsr using dust off(deflurathane) and it's still blowing really cold after one year of use here in Cali...100+ degree weather and not even breaking a sweat!!!
Thanks man, What works even better I found out later was a RTV silicone cap, like the permatex cap from the rtv I used in the video along with a thin wrap of electrical tape, fits perfect, not a drop.Yep, I'm still using the "Dust Off" in my Mazda B2300,GSR Civic,Ford Ranger & a Mitsubishi Mirage. All are still running ice cold years later.
I think you've saved me a lot of fuss, I just changed the water pump on my 95 Integra and was having trouble getting the timing belt back on...did a search for "95 Integra tensioner" and boom, found your video. Now I'm trying to loosen the alternator but the nut won't budge...grr. Looks like you have more room to work with in your Honda. In my Integra there isn't enough room to slip in a socket wrench to loosen the alternator pivot bolt. Great video though, otherwise my engine is pretty much identical to yours.
I complete disagree with putting RTV on the O-ring, you should not need any sealer on this and getting RTV into your cooling system could be disastrous. If use anything it should be something like a tacky gasket sealer or teflon based lubricant so that it doesn't harden and break off into the system but it creates an occlusive seal. That also makes the next victim (which maybe you again) that has to replace the pumps job much easier.
I have no problem taking a plastic squeegee to remove rtv. If you feel confident enough with just using a dry or tacky rubber o-ring on a water pump don't let me stand in your way. I've been at the game too long to know better. Permatex Blue rtv is made specifically for coolant. I personally use ultra grey on everything. Right off Permatex website: * Automobile Suggested Applications: Valve covers, oil pans, timing covers, water pumps, and thermostat housings.
@@Nthefastlane I'm probably a little bit older and I've been building Hondas for 26 years. You're definitely not supposed to put gasket on the water pump or the block. Just get the Honda factory service manual and you will see. Now I have put a tiny bit of RTV in the pump Groove to set the O-ring but you don't want any sealant on the outside of the O-ring were it mates up to the block and you definitely don't want any on the Block. I have seen too many leak because of this dumb mistake. This is why the Honda Engineers specifically say no sealant. I noticed you were redoing yours because it has failed. I am a courier and drive my Hondas 300 miles a day and 50,000 miles a year. So you can say I put a lot of miles on Hondas. I have never seen one leak when you don't put the sealant on there.
@@reesejones9471 Yes you can use silicone grease. I prefer not to. Permatex rtv for myself. Right off their web site: Permatex Automobile Suggested Applications: Valve covers, oil pans, timing covers, water pumps, and thermostat housings.
Hey, my water pump started leaking recently. The previous owner changed it and did the timing belt too which was what he told me. I think the water pump is still good, should I just buy a gasket and use rtv or a whole new water pump? Is the gates water pump good?
Did you have a hard time trying to loosen the tensioner bolt off? I'm replacing my waterpump too and i'm having a horrible time trying to get this bolt off...
Hey, got a quick question. So the power steering alternator belt and alternator belt should all have a minimum of 90 degree when twisted to check for proper tension? Thank you!
Nthefastlane thanks for the quick reply. Your video is very helpful. Probably a very stupid question, bare with me. I'm curious. You know how you mentioned your cams are half a tooth off? But top dead center is bang on. How do I go an abouts adjusting that? If my timing belt is off a tooth (which I suspect) what are some of the symptoms and sure signs to look out for. and why would it slip a tooth if my timing belt is doing its job in the first place. My car is making a ticking noise. It just happened recently. Motor is freshly rebuilt 20k km ago. Do you think it can be the valves?
Nthefastlane I guess to clarify my question. To keep my timing belt in timed. Are the cams (with the TDC indication), do they move together if you turn the crank pulley? If they do.. then how will my timing skip, if those 2 cam gears moves together. One can't move without the other right? Or can I just doing the cams freely with the timing belt off ?
Ikius1 They both move together, one can't move without the other. If you're talking about adjustable cams, first you top dead center both cam gears and the crank, then put the timing belt on and get the right tension. After that,if you have adjustable cams, you can adjust the degrees on them.
Keep spraying the back and front with Rust Buster and hit it with a rubber mallet 360° around the pulley. You could also use a pulley puller if anyone has one. Tough to get in there, you might have to remove the 17mm motor mount nuts in front of the cam gears to drop the engine down a little bit.
Idk if it's just on the b18b1 but was there supposed to be a bolt inside the dowel pin at the bottom of the pump? I looked it up on the service manual and it looks like there is
Thank you for a very informative good job on the video my friend's car needs exactly what you just described and it didn't awesome job thank you. Very nice now I am a new subscriber
Gonna do this to my b16a crx but before I do anything my cams are pointing in different directions (I don't know how it happened) but Can I adjust my cams to tdc without taking off the valve cover? Can that be adjusted simply after removing the timing belt?
No it just came right off. I've built this engine so many times that it's been worked on and off enough to where it doesn't give me any problems. Wiggling back and forth and using some penetrating oil helps a lot.
@@Nthefastlane oh ok thanks it's my first time doing this myself. I had a friend do it last time I only watched.. question, Does that small locking piece that's in the nut come out after or before removing the bolt
Hi do you have any video of the sleeves that needs to be replaced my vechile is overheating replaced almost everything but still overheating could you perhaps help
No no no. That install is incorrect. The spring works just fine if it’s installed and tensioned correctly. Install the belt over the crank and exhaust cam with no slack, then the intake cam. That puts any slack around the water pump and tensioner. Let the spring tension the belt, tighten the bolt then rotate the engine over 4-6 times. Then loosen the tensioner bolt 1/2 turn max, and rotate the crank COUNTER CLOCKWISE by 3 teeth on the cam gears. Then torque the tensioner bolt. That’s how you ensure proper timing and proper tension on the belt. 378,000 miles on my GSR on its 5th timing belt. Never any issues doing it per Honda’s procedure.
That way my work with a normal OEM Honda belt. But it's not going to do well with a stiff Gates Racing belt. That spring doesn't have enough strength to tighten up a stiff belt like that. Been building these engines for decades.
I liked how you showed us the "90 degree" bend on the timing belt to check for proper tension. Just wondering whats the proper tension for the A/C , alternator and power steering belt? Im currently working on a 00 integra gsr. Thanks, I love your video.
Hi Luis, Yes, lefty loosey righty tighty. So to loosen it, it'll be anti-clockwise, and to tighten it you'll be tighting it clockwise. So basically whichever way the clock ticks, that's tightening the bolt, and whichever is the opposite way of the clock ticking is loosening the bolt. Hope this helps.
my timing belt is walking off the cams , should i replace tensioner or should i get a secondary tensioner? its a b10b with b16 head someone told me it may be because the head was decked
I can't remember off the top of my head. Take a bread tie or small zip tie and insert it into the hole, whichever ones are deeper use the longer bolts.
@@Nthefastlane ya was thinking a tooth pick and compare the size to the bolt. Building a ls vtec and never did anything like this. Thanks for the response.
My 2000 ls integra started overheating and idling up and down. I have plenty of oil and coolant and i know its not my thermostat so everyone said its my waterpump snd i bought everything to fix it. U think its my waterpump?
Yes but it isn't easy. I am currently working on a 1995 Integra with a b18b and I had heated the bolt with a torch. It still took a 4foot pipe on an 18 inch beaker bar with all my weight and I weigh 239lbs. It still didn't come loose. 20 seconds with a 90$ Baer half inch drive electric impact from harbor freight and it came right loose.
I put the top at TDC but the marks didn’t line up but I still took it off, when putting it back on do I just line the oil pump with the pulley mark and leave it at top dead center or do I have to line up the line with the cover? Please help!!!
Urgent question: Before i took my timing belt off, everything is TDC. Cam up arrows at 12 o'clock and crank lined up with the lower timing belt cover line. So took the belt off and curious if my cam seals are leaking. And unfortunately they are. So what should i do now in order to take the cam gears out?
i have a d16y8 engine that spun a bearing, i took it apart recently and it only had one of those plates that helps guide the belt. you mentioned the b18c has 2 of them, is the single jingle supposed to have 2 as well? im in the process of rebuilding the engine, new crank, new bearings, new oilpump,new headgasket, new head bolts everythings together just gotta put on intake manifold and exhaust then hook a 5 speed to it. i also gotta b18c1 that i just got running, bought the engine almost a year ago finally fired it up a few weeks back. its got itr rods weiseco pistons 11.1:1 slightly over bored, skunk2 pro1 or tuner1s i dont remember acl bearings apr studs/rodbolts all new valvetrain. i picked it up from a guy getting rid of all of his Honda stuff, its runnin on a hondata s300 stock itr2001 tune, gotta AFR gauge aswell all wired in,also has walboro 255 lph pump rc 440 injectors type r replica intake mani, bxr exhaust or something like that. just got aem fuel rail and pressure reg installed today, the reg is leaking gonna try to fix that tomorrow,ive been really lookin foward to getin this twin cam in my 98 civic, its runnin on makeshift engine stand using parts from a striped civic, cabin harness, fuel tank, gauge cluster, ect. the tranny i was gonna use ended up having a bad reverse gear so i took that out and i got another tranny im hookin up to it to find out if its good, if it is i can finally start swapin it into the civic, ive been watchin a lotta your vids and theyve been helpin, the last all motor upgrade i think i could use is adjustable cam gears and a bigger throttle body, i think it has the stock gsr one on it. also lookin forward to see your top mount turbo setup, ive been wantin to do a turbo y8 to see how it works out, if the motor goes its not that bad, dont got the funds to risk a dohc vtec though, i could buy 3 or 4 y8 swaps the the price of a gsr, double that for a type r
It only has one loose washer like guide, the other one is a part of the gear...look at this image.. i61.tinypic.com/24pibcy.jpg yes, I can't wait till I get it all finished myself, itching to drive it.
Nthefastlane ya thats exactly what its got, i got the b18c runnin on the engine stand with a ls tranny that seems to be good, gonna start swapin that into the civic next weekend. im stuck on getin my intake manifold back onto the y8, the gasket near were the coolant flows and the egr would be is just stuck solid to the head. ive tried soakin it with marvel mystery oil, pb plaster, brake fluid, brake cleaner, tried scrapin it, nothins touchin it. the rest of the gasket came off pretty easy just this one spot ive been tryin to get off for bouta week now
Have a question? Broke my belt at low speed: 5 mph or less. Problem was no belt cover..driving thru areas where trucks go: rain water build up! What's the difference when a belt is broken then when...in a normal condition? I'm a beginner level, yet want to get the principle of this before I step into it. B18 91 Integra. Shot out!
thegill13579 That's what I was thinking but I went with what he explained... so sense I spun clock wise to TDC did i mess anything up? i havent removed my pulley yet, but i did probably 4 full rotations, clock wise
Probably not. Really the only important thing about which direction the engine spins is in getting the bolt off. Because on clockwise engine people like to put a breaker bar on the pulley bolt, and jam the bar on the ground, then crank the engine over with the ignition to break the bolt free. Do this on a Honda and you'll just tighten it lol. Although it's still not a good idea to spin the engine backwards.
Hello. Dont know much about Hondas so wanted to ask if all B-series water pumps are interchangeable meaning, Will same pump mount on ls,gs,gsr, and type r engines? Thanks for any help.
omg my b16a2 needs the timeing on it i cant get it to run again😕😕😕 its been 2 months just chilln i try and try to get the tdc just cant get it poor car needs a better downer eg front end wit the si....s ......help!!!!
Yes. A Vtec head with a Vtec block is the same. If you had a non-Vtec LS block with a Vtec head you would use a Vtec water pump with a Vtec timing belt. Whatever the cylinder head is, that's the timing setup. Basically it's either a non-Vtec timing belt and water pump setup, or a Vtec timing belt and water pump setup. The amount of teeth on the water pump change when you switch from a Vtec water pump to a non Vtec water pump. The Vtec water pump has 22 teeth, and the non-Vtec has 19 teeth. This is why you have to match the timing belt with the water pump. As for the oil pumps, the oil pumps are the same except Vtec oil pumps pump out more PSI, but both can be used with non-Vtec and Vtec. Hope this helps👍
@@Nthefastlane thanks it did help. I have a b18c block with a b16a3 head was wounderin if the timing was the same as Gsr or b16 si or if i had to go in between idk i tend to over think stuff lol
Timing is the same. As far as I know the cam gears have the same amount of teeth and are the same size. Setting up timing for non-Vtec and Vtec is the same, the only difference is how many teeth the water pump and timing belt have. I don't have a side-by-side comparison of the non-Vtec vs Vtec belt, but I would imagine it would be a little bit longer considering the Vtec belt has more teeth.
I have a 99 civic SI and my timing belt just broke. I was wondering how you line up the timing marks WITHOUT damaging the valves and pistons? If I had a timing belt on, it would be easy lining everything up. Without it on though I am kind of confused. Can you please help me.....
It's difficult keeping up with an email box of over 50,000k. I do my best. I did a little research for you, this is the part number you're looking for with a Gates Timing Belt # T070 - 41088 X 3/4"
🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨Hey I know this video is super old but super helpful except the turning of the engine. I have b16-b20 and changing the water pump and timing belt I turned the engine clockwise put it in tdc and took everything off. Come to find out I was supposed to turn it counterclockwise🤦🏻♂️. What are the issues am I gonna run into when I go turn the car on!!???? Please help before I do finish the job!!!……🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨
More than likely you'll still have some slack in the belt causing it to be off a tooth or so. You're going to want to rotate it counter clockwise to get the belt tension correct.
No, loosen the tensioner and turn it counterclockwise, then re-lock it back in to get the slack out. After that, make sure your cams and crank tdc is correct. Once your timing is set it doesn't matter where the belt is rotated to when you turn the crank and everything's locked in.
@@Nthefastlane hey buddy so I got everything set. Tdc on locked in, belt tension is good put everything back and I’m cranking it but no start. Now it doesn’t crank weak or sound weird it cranks fast sounds good but no start what can it be?
Awesome video! Maybe I dare to change the timing belt and water pump on my CRX... I also have to change LMA's and VTEC solenoid gasket... But I didn't find a video about it on Your account. Anyway, thanks for doing this! Much apreciated!! 😊👍
Hey, thanks for the response! Yeah, a video of LMA-change and perhaps the VTEC Solenoid-gasket as well would be great -off course, if you have the time! :)
Compared to my DC4 you have so much more room to get around the front of the motor. That 12mm bolt holding the AC compressor was a real bastard to get to.
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Hey man, I know it's an old video, but I wanna say THANK YOU for making this video. I drove my Integra from LA to Oregon, and some of the teeth on my timing belt decided they didn't wanna stay for the trip anymore.
Had to get her towed to an AutoZone and did the belt change in the parking lot. Took me 4.35hrs, but got her done and made it home to Oregon. You helped me save a lot of money..thank you!
That's awesome lol Good job man
Awesome story! Glad I was able to help!
Same thing happened to me last night gunna try an put a belt,pump an tensioner on it just hope pistons didn't contact the valves sucks I'm down about it lol
Oregon!!!!
That's what it's all about man glad a fellow motorhead help someone he dont even know n ne talked to...... Crazy life we live.
Awesome vid, and the quality was insanely good. Thank you so much. Props to you! Couldnt find any better video than this one !
The manual says to rotate the crank counter clockwise, not clockwise.
Yes on these b20 b18 b16 engines are all counter clockwise !
very helpful and good quality video, not only did you give me more info than i needed, you also got a very good camera angle on most of the stuff i could not find. thanks a bunch man.
thanks for the video help me get all the right measurements.
Great video!!! I like the fact that you included ALL of the necessary information, and no useless bs or mumbo jumbo. thank you
man, you are the man. Really enjoyed this, your experience helped me in this video
WWW.NTHEFASTLANE.COM
Nice video, gets straight to the point
Nice video man! Good editing, no dead time watching you remove each bolt=) Thank you!!
Thank you very informative video I want to help my friend with his car doing the same job and I learned a lot by just watching this and listening to you very good job
All my buddies always told me to use an oem honda water pump, have you had any more issues with the dura last?
I actually have used auto zone and advanced water pumps never had any issues
Great video!! Today i got my timing belt done thanks to your video!!
love your videos , best walk through by far, already replaced my clutch thanks to another one of your videos time to work on the other side of the block now ! definitely will be using this as a reference much appreciated 🙏
awesome work man first video I've watched and I was hooked went from viewer to subscriber keep it up plus I love Hondas lol
Amazing details! You did a great job, thanks for your work on this video
Man this is such a detailed video! Saving for when I need to do this! Nice work!
First time doing one, your video helped a lot for me to get my gsr swapped crv back up and running. Thanks for posting
Glad I could help AT. I appreciate the feedback. Thank you!
Great video. It will be very helpful for the TB replacement for my B20B Honda Gen 1 CRV (1987-2001).
ppett1 opps 1997-2001
Also -
This heavy mass impact socket is helpful for getting that crank pulley bolt off if you have an impact wrench-
Lisle 77080 19 mm Harmonic Balancer Socket for Honda
Excelent explanation and good video in Acura integra
i realy like all your video tutr sir.. more power..
Man...I would always remove the whole power steering pump and put it aside w/bungee cord..your way with a piece of hose in it is genius!!!love all your vids man especially all the honda related ones...Oh and by the way I charged my a/c in my gsr using dust off(deflurathane) and it's still blowing really cold after one year of use here in Cali...100+ degree weather and not even breaking a sweat!!!
Thanks man, What works even better I found out later was a RTV silicone cap, like the permatex cap from the rtv I used in the video along with a thin wrap of electrical tape, fits perfect, not a drop.Yep, I'm still using the "Dust Off" in my Mazda B2300,GSR Civic,Ford Ranger & a Mitsubishi Mirage. All are still running ice cold years later.
@@Nthefastlane dust off wtf lol
I think you've saved me a lot of fuss, I just changed the water pump on my 95 Integra and was having trouble getting the timing belt back on...did a search for "95 Integra tensioner" and boom, found your video. Now I'm trying to loosen the alternator but the nut won't budge...grr. Looks like you have more room to work with in your Honda. In my Integra there isn't enough room to slip in a socket wrench to loosen the alternator pivot bolt. Great video though, otherwise my engine is pretty much identical to yours.
You are awsome explaining all the procedure👏
great video. trying to learn before I try for first time. nervous.
will this work with a 1990 Integra with a b18b.
looks really similar
Yes
Would it work on b18a1
Very good video! :) I know it's 3 years old or so, but it still goes, and will still go for many many years (as these engines never die xD)
+Chris-Mario A. Portale Thanks Chris. Yes they do!
Nice vídeo the best One a see
great tip for proper tension 👌
Probably why he is going through multiple water pumps per year.
Good job. There is a special tensioning checking tool for the belt but im not sure do many people use it for these
I complete disagree with putting RTV on the O-ring, you should not need any sealer on this and getting RTV into your cooling system could be disastrous. If use anything it should be something like a tacky gasket sealer or teflon based lubricant so that it doesn't harden and break off into the system but it creates an occlusive seal. That also makes the next victim (which maybe you again) that has to replace the pumps job much easier.
I have no problem taking a plastic squeegee to remove rtv. If you feel confident enough with just using a dry or tacky rubber o-ring on a water pump don't let me stand in your way. I've been at the game too long to know better. Permatex Blue rtv is made specifically for coolant. I personally use ultra grey on everything. Right off Permatex website: * Automobile
Suggested Applications: Valve covers, oil pans, timing covers, water pumps, and thermostat housings.
@@Nthefastlane I'm probably a little bit older and I've been building Hondas for 26 years. You're definitely not supposed to put gasket on the water pump or the block. Just get the Honda factory service manual and you will see. Now I have put a tiny bit of RTV in the pump Groove to set the O-ring but you don't want any sealant on the outside of the O-ring were it mates up to the block and you definitely don't want any on the Block. I have seen too many leak because of this dumb mistake. This is why the Honda Engineers specifically say no sealant. I noticed you were redoing yours because it has failed. I am a courier and drive my Hondas 300 miles a day and 50,000 miles a year. So you can say I put a lot of miles on Hondas. I have never seen one leak when you don't put the sealant on there.
on b18b1 says counterclock wise to time. is that correct?
Good video but you do not need RTV on the water pump oring. Orings seal by compression.
Randy Helouin To each their own. I use rtv as reassurance. I've had brand new o-rings leak on the first day. Rtv prevents that from ever happening.
Same here, I had a new PS pump o-ring leaking, on the inlet valve, onto the ac compressor pulley. RTV and proper torque (8 lb-ft) fixed the problem.
If you put rtv on an o-ring, then you do not understand how o-rings work. They are meant to be greased.
@@reesejones9471 Yes you can use silicone grease. I prefer not to. Permatex rtv for myself. Right off their web site: Permatex Automobile
Suggested Applications: Valve covers, oil pans, timing covers, water pumps, and thermostat housings.
@@Nthefastlane I have never had one leak in over 50 installs. If yours leaks you probably have the O-ring set wrong or you had the bolts torque wrong
Hey man where did you find that water pump with the guides on it?
Hey, my water pump started leaking recently. The previous owner changed it and did the timing belt too which was what he told me. I think the water pump is still good, should I just buy a gasket and use rtv or a whole new water pump? Is the gates water pump good?
Did you have a hard time trying to loosen the tensioner bolt off? I'm replacing my waterpump too and i'm having a horrible time trying to get this bolt off...
Hey, got a quick question.
So the power steering alternator belt and alternator belt should all have a minimum of 90 degree when twisted to check for proper tension?
Thank you!
+Ikius1 That is correct.
Nthefastlane thanks for the quick reply. Your video is very helpful.
Probably a very stupid question, bare with me.
I'm curious. You know how you mentioned your cams are half a tooth off? But top dead center is bang on.
How do I go an abouts adjusting that?
If my timing belt is off a tooth (which I suspect) what are some of the symptoms and sure signs to look out for. and why would it slip a tooth if my timing belt is doing its job in the first place.
My car is making a ticking noise. It just happened recently. Motor is freshly rebuilt 20k km ago. Do you think it can be the valves?
Nthefastlane I guess to clarify my question. To keep my timing belt in timed.
Are the cams (with the TDC indication), do they move together if you turn the crank pulley?
If they do.. then how will my timing skip, if those 2 cam gears moves together. One can't move without the other right?
Or can I just doing the cams freely with the timing belt off ?
Ikius1 They both move together, one can't move without the other. If you're talking about adjustable cams, first you top dead center both cam gears and the crank, then put the timing belt on and get the right tension. After that,if you have adjustable cams, you can adjust the degrees on them.
quick question for ya , i got off the bolt but the pulley won't budge any tips?
Keep spraying the back and front with Rust Buster and hit it with a rubber mallet 360° around the pulley. You could also use a pulley puller if anyone has one. Tough to get in there, you might have to remove the 17mm motor mount nuts in front of the cam gears to drop the engine down a little bit.
How did you take the main pulley off? Did you use a special tool ?
Thankful for the video and that my civic had neither AC nor power steering 👍🏾
You know you a true civic owner when you ain't running no ac or PS
Great video！Thank you so much
Idk if it's just on the b18b1 but was there supposed to be a bolt inside the dowel pin at the bottom of the pump? I looked it up on the service manual and it looks like there is
Thank you for a very informative good job on the video my friend's car needs exactly what you just described and it didn't awesome job thank you. Very nice now I am a new subscriber
do i need to tighten the 14mm bolt back up, that's right after you removed the top motor mount before pulling the pully at TDC????
Gonna do this to my b16a crx but before I do anything my cams are pointing in different directions (I don't know how it happened) but Can I adjust my cams to tdc without taking off the valve cover? Can that be adjusted simply after removing the timing belt?
Did you have to use the crank removal tool? To remove the crank pulley
No it just came right off. I've built this engine so many times that it's been worked on and off enough to where it doesn't give me any problems.
Wiggling back and forth and using some penetrating oil helps a lot.
@@Nthefastlane oh ok thanks it's my first time doing this myself. I had a friend do it last time I only watched.. question, Does that small locking piece that's in the nut come out after or before removing the bolt
why not use oem parts from honda?
Loved it!!
Hi do you have any video of the sleeves that needs to be replaced my vechile is overheating replaced almost everything but still overheating could you perhaps help
No no no. That install is incorrect. The spring works just fine if it’s installed and tensioned correctly.
Install the belt over the crank and exhaust cam with no slack, then the intake cam. That puts any slack around the water pump and tensioner. Let the spring tension the belt, tighten the bolt then rotate the engine over 4-6 times. Then loosen the tensioner bolt 1/2 turn max, and rotate the crank COUNTER CLOCKWISE by 3 teeth on the cam gears. Then torque the tensioner bolt. That’s how you ensure proper timing and proper tension on the belt.
378,000 miles on my GSR on its 5th timing belt. Never any issues doing it per Honda’s procedure.
That way my work with a normal OEM Honda belt. But it's not going to do well with a stiff Gates Racing belt. That spring doesn't have enough strength to tighten up a stiff belt like that. Been building these engines for decades.
How you did the cams gears to put them on time?
i seriously need a impact gun now
I liked how you showed us the "90 degree" bend on the timing belt to check for proper tension.
Just wondering whats the proper tension for the A/C , alternator and power steering belt?
Im currently working on a 00 integra gsr.
Thanks, I love your video.
Same procedure. 90 deg
What Side you Turn the Bolt off the polie ? Left Side out right Side?
Hi Luis,
Yes, lefty loosey righty tighty. So to loosen it, it'll be anti-clockwise, and to tighten it you'll be tighting it clockwise.
So basically whichever way the clock ticks, that's tightening the bolt, and whichever is the opposite way of the clock ticking is loosening the bolt.
Hope this helps.
my timing belt is walking off the cams , should i replace tensioner or should i get a secondary tensioner? its a b10b with b16 head someone told me it may be because the head was decked
The bearings are getting sloppy causing it to tilt. I would replace the tensioner.
Nthefastlane engine bearings or tensioner bearing?
Timing belt tensioner bearing.
There’s two sizes of bolts on the water pump. Can you tell me the placement?? Thanks. Helpful video!!!
I can't remember off the top of my head. Take a bread tie or small zip tie and insert it into the hole, whichever ones are deeper use the longer bolts.
@@Nthefastlane ya was thinking a tooth pick and compare the size to the bolt. Building a ls vtec and never did anything like this. Thanks for the response.
My 2000 ls integra started overheating and idling up and down. I have plenty of oil and coolant and i know its not my thermostat so everyone said its my waterpump snd i bought everything to fix it. U think its my waterpump?
back on the track 😆😆😆😆
The CRX and I will be at it again this summer
is it possible to loosen the crank pulley without an impact gun?
hmongboy9161 crank pulley, breaker bars and heat . search for bundy's garage video on this subject ( Honda crankshaft pulley bolt )
Yes but it isn't easy. I am currently working on a 1995 Integra with a b18b and I had heated the bolt with a torch. It still took a 4foot pipe on an 18 inch beaker bar with all my weight and I weigh 239lbs. It still didn't come loose. 20 seconds with a 90$ Baer half inch drive electric impact from harbor freight and it came right loose.
Thank you.
Duralast water pumps wear out they're tensioner and timing belt is good though
like the Bible verse you have. very nice
I put the top at TDC but the marks didn’t line up but I still took it off, when putting it back on do I just line the oil pump with the pulley mark and leave it at top dead center or do I have to line up the line with the cover? Please help!!!
This would bet pretty similar to just doing a vtec head without dropping a motor since you need to install a diff water pump and timing belt
how many hours did this take asking pricing the labor cost
Need info on that turbo manifold to keep ac and ps
When you click this link, click Shop This Video underneath the video to purchase the manifold.
www.nthefastlane.com/top-mount-turbo-build-part1
You da best! GG
Urgent question:
Before i took my timing belt off, everything is TDC. Cam up arrows at 12 o'clock and crank lined up with the lower timing belt cover line. So took the belt off and curious if my cam seals are leaking. And unfortunately they are. So what should i do now in order to take the cam gears out?
+David Law ,, cam seals leaks seem to happen on B engine hold cams with pins or clamps and change cam seals . Change crank seal too
i have a d16y8 engine that spun a bearing, i took it apart recently and it only had one of those plates that helps guide the belt. you mentioned the b18c has 2 of them, is the single jingle supposed to have 2 as well? im in the process of rebuilding the engine, new crank, new bearings, new oilpump,new headgasket, new head bolts everythings together just gotta put on intake manifold and exhaust then hook a 5 speed to it. i also gotta b18c1 that i just got running, bought the engine almost a year ago finally fired it up a few weeks back. its got itr rods weiseco pistons 11.1:1 slightly over bored, skunk2 pro1 or tuner1s i dont remember acl bearings apr studs/rodbolts all new valvetrain. i picked it up from a guy getting rid of all of his Honda stuff, its runnin on a hondata s300 stock itr2001 tune, gotta AFR gauge aswell all wired in,also has walboro 255 lph pump rc 440 injectors type r replica intake mani, bxr exhaust or something like that. just got aem fuel rail and pressure reg installed today, the reg is leaking gonna try to fix that tomorrow,ive been really lookin foward to getin this twin cam in my 98 civic, its runnin on makeshift engine stand using parts from a striped civic, cabin harness, fuel tank, gauge cluster, ect. the tranny i was gonna use ended up having a bad reverse gear so i took that out and i got another tranny im hookin up to it to find out if its good, if it is i can finally start swapin it into the civic, ive been watchin a lotta your vids and theyve been helpin, the last all motor upgrade i think i could use is adjustable cam gears and a bigger throttle body, i think it has the stock gsr one on it. also lookin forward to see your top mount turbo setup, ive been wantin to do a turbo y8 to see how it works out, if the motor goes its not that bad, dont got the funds to risk a dohc vtec though, i could buy 3 or 4 y8 swaps the the price of a gsr, double that for a type r
It only has one loose washer like guide, the other one is a part of the gear...look at this image.. i61.tinypic.com/24pibcy.jpg
yes, I can't wait till I get it all finished myself, itching to drive it.
Nthefastlane ya thats exactly what its got, i got the b18c runnin on the engine stand with a ls tranny that seems to be good, gonna start swapin that into the civic next weekend. im stuck on getin my intake manifold back onto the y8, the gasket near were the coolant flows and the egr would be is just stuck solid to the head. ive tried soakin it with marvel mystery oil, pb plaster, brake fluid, brake cleaner, tried scrapin it, nothins touchin it. the rest of the gasket came off pretty easy just this one spot ive been tryin to get off for bouta week now
I o not feel like doing this at all. I don't even know how to fix cars. This should work on a 92 Integra LS right?
Nyc vid yo
Have a question? Broke my belt at low speed: 5 mph or less. Problem was no belt cover..driving thru areas where trucks go: rain water build up! What's the difference when a belt is broken then when...in a normal condition? I'm a beginner level, yet want to get the principle of this before I step into it. B18 91 Integra. Shot out!
settripsbunch your engines fucked
B-Series spin Counter Clockwise looking at the pulley, I think you said you were going to spin it clockwise to get it to TDC.
thegill13579 I literally just read all comments looking to see if anyone else heard that. its counter-clockwise xD
thegill13579
That's what I was thinking but I went with what he explained... so sense I spun clock wise to TDC did i mess anything up? i havent removed my pulley yet, but i did probably 4 full rotations, clock wise
Probably not. Really the only important thing about which direction the engine spins is in getting the bolt off. Because on clockwise engine people like to put a breaker bar on the pulley bolt, and jam the bar on the ground, then crank the engine over with the ignition to break the bolt free.
Do this on a Honda and you'll just tighten it lol.
Although it's still not a good idea to spin the engine backwards.
Great video
Thanks Hilario!
Your amazing!
Hello. Dont know much about Hondas so wanted to ask if all B-series water pumps are interchangeable meaning, Will same pump mount on ls,gs,gsr, and type r engines? Thanks for any help.
Integra and b20 water pumps are the same. All vtec water pumps are the same. Same goes for the oil pumps.
Ok thanks. Just wanted to verify since some listings on ebay are different for b18c1 and b18c5 compared to a regular LS engine.
Anybody watchin in 2023 get the Aisin timing belt kit on rock auto
Did your motor only have 1 timing belt washer? Im looking at the parts diagram and see 1 or 2 so I am somewhat confused.
omg my b16a2 needs the timeing on it i cant get it to run again😕😕😕 its been 2 months just chilln i try and try to get the tdc just cant get it poor car needs a better downer eg front end wit the si....s ......help!!!!
When taking off the crank pulley bolt of the B18C1 how strong does the impact have to be?
DIRTYSOUTHKREW about 100 psi
I have a jdm b18c with a b16a2 head. Is the timing the same????
Yes. A Vtec head with a Vtec block is the same. If you had a non-Vtec LS block with a Vtec head you would use a Vtec water pump with a Vtec timing belt.
Whatever the cylinder head is, that's the timing setup. Basically it's either a non-Vtec timing belt and water pump setup, or a Vtec timing belt and water pump setup. The amount of teeth on the water pump change when you switch from a Vtec water pump to a non Vtec water pump. The Vtec water pump has 22 teeth, and the non-Vtec has 19 teeth. This is why you have to match the timing belt with the water pump.
As for the oil pumps, the oil pumps are the same except Vtec oil pumps pump out more PSI, but both can be used with non-Vtec and Vtec.
Hope this helps👍
@@Nthefastlane thanks it did help. I have a b18c block with a b16a3 head was wounderin if the timing was the same as Gsr or b16 si or if i had to go in between idk i tend to over think stuff lol
@@Nthefastlane also thougt the b18 compared to the b16 had a taller deck height
Timing is the same. As far as I know the cam gears have the same amount of teeth and are the same size. Setting up timing for non-Vtec and Vtec is the same, the only difference is how many teeth the water pump and timing belt have.
I don't have a side-by-side comparison of the non-Vtec vs Vtec belt, but I would imagine it would be a little bit longer considering the Vtec belt has more teeth.
struggled for a long minute untill I found out you need a **crankshaft pulley holder**to hold the pulley while you remove the bolt with the air gun
I have a 99 civic SI and my timing belt just broke. I was wondering how you line up the timing marks WITHOUT damaging the valves and pistons? If I had a timing belt on, it would be easy lining everything up. Without it on though I am kind of confused. Can you please help me.....
if your timing belt broke, you probably damaged the valves already
Is there one or two woodruff keys?
How do you take off the crank bolt without the special tool or an impact gun
Just buy the special tool it's like $30
I changed my oil pump but now is hard to start and is coming with noise what it can be
is that a b18b/b18c timing gates belt?
Yes. All oem Honda belts are Gates as well. :) Look at your oem belt closely. The blue Gates is a much stronger belt then oem.
this comment was years ago lol thanks for the reply tho I'm currently building a ae86 4ac stick looking for belt but kinda tricky
It's difficult keeping up with an email box of over 50,000k. I do my best. I did a little research for you, this is the part number you're looking for with a Gates Timing Belt # T070 - 41088 X 3/4"
Basically just called a "T070"
thank you!
🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨Hey I know this video is super old but super helpful except the turning of the engine. I have b16-b20 and changing the water pump and timing belt I turned the engine clockwise put it in tdc and took everything off. Come to find out I was supposed to turn it counterclockwise🤦🏻♂️. What are the issues am I gonna run into when I go turn the car on!!???? Please help before I do finish the job!!!……🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨
More than likely you'll still have some slack in the belt causing it to be off a tooth or so. You're going to want to rotate it counter clockwise to get the belt tension correct.
@@Nthefastlane so before I install the timing belt turn it counterclockwise around 1 time back to tdc?.
No, loosen the tensioner and turn it counterclockwise, then re-lock it back in to get the slack out. After that, make sure your cams and crank tdc is correct.
Once your timing is set it doesn't matter where the belt is rotated to when you turn the crank and everything's locked in.
@@Nthefastlane hey buddy so I got everything set. Tdc on locked in, belt tension is good put everything back and I’m cranking it but no start. Now it doesn’t crank weak or sound weird it cranks fast sounds good but no start what can it be?
Awesome video! Maybe I dare to change the timing belt and water pump on my CRX... I also have to change LMA's and VTEC solenoid gasket... But I didn't find a video about it on Your account. Anyway, thanks for doing this! Much apreciated!! 😊👍
CRXjenta Anytime!. I'm sure I have a video somewhere showing the process, If not, I'm sure I can throw one in some time.
Hey, thanks for the response! Yeah, a video of LMA-change and perhaps the VTEC Solenoid-gasket as well would be great -off course, if you have the time! :)
Compared to my DC4 you have so much more room to get around the front of the motor. That 12mm bolt holding the AC compressor was a real bastard to get to.
What impact gun are you using?
2135TiMAX
do you need to take of the under splash guards and do you leave yours off if so or re install after?
Awesome
Will this work when my timing jumped and I don't know how the timing belt was set before it jumped?
Yes it will. This is putting the timing exactly where it needs to be.
Which way loosens the crank pully bolt?
Facing the bolt it's lefty loosy righty tighty.So towards the front of the vehicle to loosin and towards the driver seat to tighten.
+Nthefastlane did u use any rtv on the oil pan gasket? and how tight did u tighten the oil pan nuts and bolts
Lifetime warranty pump never had a problem with them.
you dont really need rtv on o rings. usually applies to gaskets. but hey you just do what u do to your car and we all just do whatever to ours.
Counter clockwise when turning engine i thought