Dip your 3D Prints!
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- Опубліковано 21 лип 2024
- Dipping your 3D Prints in Clear Lacquer could be an interesting way to get a smooth finish for clear 3D Printed parts! lets test it out and see!
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#3DPrinting #UncleJessy #3DPrintingTips - Наука та технологія
Jessy, just FYI, Avoid using Alc inks. Over time the colors will fade off into some ugly shades from sunlight or when exposed to UV light, or will even burn as the resin heats up. That is why your pretty light purple turned into that very ugly reddish brown in all but the thinnest parts That's trademark alc inks for purples to do that. Also why that bright color for the flames dull to such an extreme. Blues will also fade to a puke yellow, and others may lose their pigment altogether.
Instead use resin dyes (be careful as some brands have started re-branded alk inks as dyes). Same effect, but their design to pigment resins.
Alc inks are NOT designed for resin, though many brands buy them in bulk (often from the same place) slap their logo on them, and market them for resin... Their proper use is on paper. Saying something is for something doesn't always make it true. That's like buying glue in bulk and slapping a label on it and marketing it as a skin care product. Or how we now see a LOT of milk/latte frothers advertised as 'resin mixers'.
Edit: To tell for sure rather you are using dyes vs alc inks. Dyes when a drop is added to resin will remain a drop and not really move much at all. Alc inks when a drop is added will sit on the surface and rapidly spread out and 'move' as the alcohol evaporates in the air.
That is one awesome tip! i didnt realize there was actual RESIN DYE! haha going to order some and test it out!! Fingers crossed better results!
@@UncleJessy I think the resin dye from sevgili on Amazon will work well.
@@UncleJessy You contents are awesome! I sure think that with the tip of TAiiNE your colours will come out wayyyy better using the appropriate dye
@@UncleJessy you will definitely be able to tell the difference when loking at the liquid. Resin colorant will be almost opaque int the bottle, and IME doesn't separate really like alcohol ink does!
@@UncleJessy resin dye is actually mica the base foe makeup and car paint..
You can get some amazing chameleon effects with it
Using the air compressor to blow off excess Is a bad idea. Gloss normally needs 2 or 3 coats because it needs to be thick. Pro tip! I work with gloss on a weekly basis.
haha yeah I think if i just found a way to hang the prints and let them drip dry it would have been best vs the air compressor
@@UncleJessy Attach fish line to the tip of the tail with some uv resin. Dip and hang dry.
Can clear gloss in a spray paint can work?
@@Screamus yes
@@Screamus Yes, but...
If you're doing this with something like jewelry, it will rub off over time. You need a pretty thick layer.
As a long-time model builder, one of the things that's commonly used to make clear parts 'clearer' is (in the USA) Future floor polish. It's an acrylic clear and it self-levels really well. Wonder if it would work as well? No mask needed, and you just drop it onto a paper towel to drain.
Care to elaborate? Have you ever tried it on a PLA or PETG part?
I use polyurethane varnish (Varathane) on my FDM prints for this type of finish and it works great - also strengthens the print, a bit. I got tired of using fillers and sanding and just took my print and dunked it into a can of Varathane and then hung it to drip-off. With one final sanding of the top layer, it hides the layer lines and takes paint well. If you're using multiple coats, you need to recoat within the specified times, to avoid applying over under/over cured finish coats.
interesting video. Thanks for making it.
So, as someone who has used "dipping" (what it is called in other hobbies) and worked with gloss sprays - here is a bit of info on what is going on.
First off - a gloss coat (lacquer or otherwise) can not make the material in an object more or less transparent.
What it DOES do, is smooth out any existing imperfections which can diffuse the light which might be making an object appear less transparent than it is.
(think like a pair of glasses or clear plastic with a lot of scratches).
So something that looks less transparent can be improved quite a bit if its current surface is not perfectly smooth.
Similar to how sanding and buffing would render a surface polished and allow maximum light transmissivity - the gloss instead of removing material to smooth the surface, fills in the small gaps and imperfections - thus, giving similar results.
The red resin test piece was not that transparent to begin with, so making its surface more smooth - did not have significant results. The yellow was a bit more transparent material, so it had a somewhat more profound effect.
Gloss also makes the surface more reflective - more shiny - which can also help with appearance.
Most glosses can achieve this affect (obviously, with some variance on their own optical clarity and chemical compositions).
There are many brush on (or can be applied with an airbrush) varnishes (many water based) which can give this affect - and an old hobbyist trick was also to use some of the older acrylic floor polishes - as they could be used similarly (many are no longer available) and were a cheap source by volume of gloss acrylic finish (a few others mention this - I have a big jug of minwax on my painting table next to my airbursh).
Spray can varnish can also do this, but getting consistent coating on oddly shaped objects can be a challenge at times.
The main benefit of the various dipping varnish is that typically it is a more durable surface - which for some (war gamers who are going to handle a piece a lot) is important, but others maybe not (an art piece going on a shelf).
Side note: if ever using a varnish (spray can especially) make 100% sure the target piece is dry - if it has a high moisture content, the varnish can fog or get hazy as the moisture interacts with the other chemicals in the curing process.
Anyway, thanks for the vid - hope this info was useful to build upon the cool stuff in the video.
Thanks for the additional information.
Pro tip. Use a length of fishing line, dip the tip into the UV resin then using the UV flashlight cure it onto the inconspicuous spot on the print. Then dip the print into the lacquer and hang by the line. Once its dried, get in with some snips and cut the fishing line as flush as you can.
Nice!
Thanks for sharing, I've been meaning to try this method for a while now, looks like you got some nice results.
I made a video a couple years ago on getting clear prints with a slightly different method. I print in the clear resin first, then use the alcohol inks after applying them directly to the print. This keeps my clear resin clear without contaminating the rest of the container. I use the clear coat spray can after to make them crystal clear.
Cool trick.
This reminds me of the tweet I saw the other day about dipping FDM-printed "clear" PETG models into Minwax Clear Polycrylic Gloss goop. The combo of specific filament and specific goop makes dandy transparent-ish prints.
Awesome technique! Thanks for sharing Uncle!🔥🫡
Hey Jessy! Great video!! Now I really, really want to see this with action figures!!
I have always had issues making (platinum cure) silicone molds using Elegoo Resin (water washable, exclusively, I've never used any other resins). Do you know if sealing the surface of the print with the lacquer, will prevent inhibiting the silicone and allowing it to cure? Or can anyone touch on this? Thank you!
I have looked several times to find that neon green resin, and I've been unable to even find it. Anyone know where you can score some?
love your videos i just the mars 2 pro last month and some of my prints warp and not too sure on the settings but now I got the settings for the resin but now I switched over to water wash resin what are some good settings for the mars 2 pro the water resin i just got is ANYCUBIC Water Washable 3D Printer Resin, 405nm High,i could use some help as im still learning about resin.
Looks nice! For a less VOC-intensive process, model-car builders have been dipping scuffed-up windshields in "Pledge Floor Gloss" acrylic floor finish for decades, since it was called "Future floor wax". That might be something to try as well.
We did the same on boots in the Army!
Can you also dunk FDM prints to remove the layer lines prior to painting?
What print settings did u use for Elegoo Translucent resin? I see they have both transparent and translucent resin, not sure if there is a difference, will be using a MonoX to print it.
Is it possible to color the lacquer and see if the color comes though and try that with clear prints or to enhance your color prints.
I’ve always just brushed on a thin layer or two of 3d print resin, it’s quick and I get really clear prints, there’s also xtc from smooth on. I usually use the siraya simple clear… you can also tint it different colors before brushing it on and you can add tint to a clear print or multiple colors.
Great video! Thanks, is the clear resin you paint water base? What type of color paint you used to paint it? Do you have a link? Thanks!!
I just got my first 3d prints and those supports be so hard to pull off. Im going to keep training but I like the tip of the heat gun. Thanks for the video.
Have you heard anything about elegoo shipping out the pre orders of the Jupiter? I'm suppose to get this shipped to me in August after they moved the date back a month. I only seem to get an automated response when I email them to ask for updates
I'm curious if RESIONE 3D Printer Resin, G217 will hold up to this. already a very clear resin that i use.
Have you edited the mask sculpture ? I've bought the same file and my file on the mask part have a super gray chunk that makes very heavy the mask. Thanks for the video !
I love that we were on the same page. I love dipping stuff because it's easier to get in the small nooks and crannies than typical spray. I was using the polycrylic water based minwax stuff on my prints though too.
That yellow/green resin from siraya is easily one of my favorite colored resins in person, it's so cool!
This is off topic from this video, but I recently bought an Anycubic Mono X. I'm getting a lot of print fails because the supports are failing. I've tried printing at a 40 degree angle and flat. Heavy and medium supports also. I've even gone in and manually added supports. I'm not confident with this machine enough to go and start messing with the settings. Scratching my head here and could use some help.
I would love to know if dipping PLA prints in this would help smooth layer lines and still be able to spray paint over it since it’s so glossy?
What filament did you use for the mask/hand base?
can anyone recommend a good lower price respirator like the one he is using in the video? Thanks so much!
I'm curious how this process affected the surface of the model, did it smooth them out more or not?
What is that air compressor that you’re using? It is that a little tiny one? I would love to have an air compressor in my project room. I have my big air compressor in my garage but I would not bring that in the house.
Love your content. I’ve been trying to learn about resins for functional parts. I’d love to see if you had any insights on resins that are durable enough. Or post processing methods that increase durability like heating while UV curing. Finding this sort of info is surprisingly hard.
how about doing this same procedure to 3D printed PLA?
You could air-brush the lacquer on your prints once the level in the can has dropped, or onto larger pieces. No need to buy compressed gasses
Perhaps shellac is a better option, as it is 'organic' since it is a resin secreted by the female lac bug. It also comes in different colors.
no need to buy anything. paint with clear resin!
wash, paint with resin, cure
@@TristynRusselo It wouldn't have a gloss though, right?
@@LiveEasy yes it would. as per the instructions on the bottle
Do you have a link for the uv pen light?
HELP! I love your channel so I thought i'd try and see if you can help. I want to take the obj file from cults3d of batman beyond (free) and make stuff from it to wear. The problem I run into is that when I split the suit up, then grab just the one item I need (ie the helmet) and I export it as a stl, then size it up to fit, it has LOTS of mesh angles. How can I get it to stay smooth like the obj file? Sure could use your expert help on this one. Thanks !!!
what happens if you dip or spray a filament print?
Awesome stuff as always Uncle J.!
Can the resin that is broken away from the model be re-used? Or is it going in the trash....
Does anyone know if this would prevent cure inhibition in casting resin statues in Plat Silicone?
curious how this would go with silk filament and clear filament
Does this trick do anything for FDM printing or just resin?
So is are you skipping the UV cure stage (like in a UV chamber)?
7:15 did you try or if you did can you tell me, putting the bucket into a spray bottle and see how well that work like if your was using the spray can
My question is what about over curing? Since there is UV in most light, there is some curing effect on all unprotected prints. I don't see clear material protecting the UV resin from additional curing over time
Do you have a link to the inks you use?
May have already been suggested, but you could put an LED in the base to shine up, and see what effect it does. I have a small figure of Cortana from HALO, and it is lit from below in blue, and it looks really great. No, the figure is not 3D printed, but just mentioning it as an idea for your prints. Keep up the good work.
with the uv resin, shouldnt you be using something that is UV resistant?
Uncle Jessie wats the best 3d printer For student Jewelers first time printing??
What was the pla you used?
Do you have a link for the UV pen?
Where did you get your UV light pen? I've bought 2 so far, and they've both been cheap crap.
What are your thoughts on doing this with FDM printers and solid colors? I normally dip in Polyurethane. I never thought about Lacquer instead. I'm open to suggestions on this
I did this with a clear varnish on my FDM prints and it worked a treat at filling the layer lines.. however, when I tried to make a silicone mold so I could cast in pewter the silicone didn't cure properly around the model and left me with a gooie mess. Not exactly sure why this happened but have now tried wax to smooth out 🤞
You can also brush the clear translucent resin over your print lightly and toss it in the uv curing station and it works so well!
Nice idea!
Ever thought of pouring the laquer in a wider bowl for dipping and pouring it back into the can after the job is done? Maybe through a strainer that catches small bits that might come loose.
What would it do with transparent PLA?
Could dunking work for FDM pieces too?
this is advice from wood working as i have not dipped into resin printing yet but polyurethane is a much better option to have a crystal clear coating. laquer tends to yellow. i do not know if it may have a negative effect on the resin but it might be worth a try.
Does it fill layer lines?
Where is the charizard stl from?
I'm coming back to this as an option for using a food-grade lacquer to dip some resin cups in. Trying to find a more "efficient" option to make small wine glasses to sell over my hand carved wood ones.
Do you think I could do this with PLA prints?
You'll need to cure beforehand as many varnishes and lacquers tend to have uv protective components to prevent sun bleaching.
The gloss lacquer essentially fills all of the gaps and dries to a smooth finish hence why it looks so transparent. The matte effect is because of micro imperfections in the print (eg the layer lines) which will diffuse light whereas the gloss is as if you dipped it in glass.
For drying a wire rack might be helpful to avoid pooling although removing excess is still best.
Also old wargaming trick: coloured lacquer can leave nice effects because the pigment will settle more in the recesses
Finally for gigantic things painting it on should work as the lacquer should be reasonably self levelling
Thats an awesome tip, now I want to see a video on that
@@jimmysgameclips It's the same principal as gloss vs matte varnish on miniatures. Gloss essentially dries super smooth so has maximum reflectiveness where as a matte surface is 'bumpy' which stops the shine. Satin varnish is half way between.
Some mini painters will put a layer of gloss on a model before using a thinned paint or oil wash so that it flows better (although with dedicated washes such as citadel/games workshop shades they are formulated to flow regardless)
@@OldManRogers Thanks for the explanation, I'm only use to doing it in 3D graphics so this is new to me
Where did you find a UV pen light?
I've only been resin printing for two weeks now. But, I have been applying clear coats to woodwork, metals and painted miniatures for 40 years, as well as painting numerous cars. Most of these finishes will yellow and crack over time. You will always lose surface detail and sharpness. I avoid using clear coats whenever possible as they are permanent, forever. For woodwork, I prefer polishing wax coatings and oils. They can be re-applied to "brighten" years later and do not build up, losing detail. The best clear coats are automotive as they are intended to withstand heat and extended UV exposure, but they could melt the resin. Not sure on that.
All of this being said, most of these products are highly flammable and toxic, not to mention bad for the environment. My old age and wisdom (hehe) says "less is better".
Thanks Jessy
use aerosol lacqeur you wil get 1000x better results
I wonder how airbrushing automotive clear coat on resin prints would work out? Clear coats are designed to not yellow in the sun (easily at least) and are pretty tough coats to be able to stand up to weather, scuffing, etc.
@@Calamity_Jack Totally agree. They are usually "thinned" and applied in very thin coats. I am not set up to do that kind of stuff anymore but would love to see someone try it. Napa Auto Parts in Canada used to mix automotive paints in rattle cans. Not cheap, but far better than off the shelf spray paints. I am going to see if they still do it. If you are going to try airbrushing, it is usually a 2 part mix and it is highly toxic. Use proper PPE.
Thanks for the reply.
@@madp3d Good stuff, thx!
I do woodwork and use lacquer. The plus - dries FAST and gives a nice finish. The negative: lots of fumes. I only do it in the garage with the door open and a fan going.
I never had much luck making my resin prints clear unless I sand down the layer lines. I find there is just to much light refraction coming off of the layer lines. You can fill the layer lines in with a clear gloss of some sort but at the point where the layer lines are filled clear gloss becomes opaque. The fine scratches from a high grit sandpaper are filled in much easier by a gloss coating giving you that nice clear ice look. Sometimes hard work is the best way.
I saw some model maker dunking some miniature airplane canopie on windex and the result looked great. It creates a sort of thin layer ziping and highlighting the structure. Translucent...no but shine and realy clean...yea!
Just had a thought. He mentioned bubbles which is also a problem with epoxy resin. Some epoxy resins have a long enough work time to use a vacuum chamber to remove all the air. Since uv resin doesn't cure the same way, has anyone ever tried using a vacuum chamber on the resin before printing to see if it does anything? Just got my first resin printer the other day and actually can't find anything online about this.
The title of this video made me think Hydrodipping which you should try on the future!
Hello jessie i wanted to ask what happened to the failed darth vader helmet?
I love using “Rustoleum triple thick Glaze spray” on my clear prints after curing, two coats. I also dry it in complete darkness, seems to help with the yellowing.
I use the Triple-Thick Crystal Clear Glaze from Krylon and the results are awesome. I'm betting that they are pretty much the same thing. I like how it goes on a little thick, then flows nice and flat. I spray a light tack coat, let that sit for 2 minutes and then 2 heavy coats with 5 minutes between. Love that stuff. It looks amazing on translucent red too.
@@MarcoNoPolo yes, exactly 👍 that’s how I use it as well. Bet they are the same
@@MarcoNoPolo the differences I’ve found between the two brands Triple Thick Glaze on my wood projects is that the Rustoleum spray is more direct and flows heavier and the krylon is more of a wider misting. I like using the krylon on my bigger projects as it’s easier to cover a wider surface area. Both great products 👍🏼👍🏼
@@carsonbarnes3283 Thanks for the info. =)
I really want a glazed donut right now
I put glow-in-the-dark pigment powder into my clear resin. Really cool and fun. Just be sure to mix during the print. Like at every 5-10% complete mix with the plastic spatula that comes with the printer.
could you do this with filament?
Maybe I did miss something, but I am confused how you managed to create a two toned resin of orange and purple for the Charizard?
This is basically what I did with my hour glass exterior I painted it on with a brush. I know if the print is hollow you have to do both sides so you can pour some in, then pour it back out. I used Polycrylic.
I just tried using a 2K clear coat high gloss through my airbrush (with thinner). The results are amazing, but way more work :).
can you airbrush the resin on mixed with alchohol
2k urethane auto clear coat works really great on clear prints. When sprayed correctly, it cures extremely glossy, which adds to the transparency factor.
Nice non-click-baity straightforward video. Good stuff.
Would this work better with FDM prints? To smooth the model out before you add the base layer of paint? Any chance you could do a follow up video for that? ☺️ you could do a comparison of two base layer painted models, one with and one without the dip
My Jupiter just came in and I’m stuck overseas for work for the next 2 months 😭 I’m stuck watching your videos to add to my to do list for when I get back and can start printing
How about tinting the lacquer instead?
Would be cool if you do a side-by-side to uncouted or against clear coat sprayed too for comparrison - but great to know - will try dipping some of my prints in it too and test it out!
if you use a long support piece and cure it to a corner of the model you can then hang the item to dry from that support
You can use an Airbrush to apply the lacquar. You can also use minwax polycrylic gloss in a Airbrush also. No smell at all with that.
I use future high gloss floor polish on my clear prints to make them glossy and protect them like this.
Wondering if you could airbrush the lacquer on? Not sure how you would go about thinning it run through a airbrush but at that point would probably just be easier to just buy a spray can.
Awesome video! I have a tiny Phrozen Mini but seeing the results on the ELEGOO machines is somehow changing my mind on resin printing work flow. I don't have a good work area for resin as I do for FDM. This video is most certainly a bonus and the comments for this video have been mindful and instructive. Thanks!
Never dip, always a brush. That is something that I have learned from using The Army Painter's quickshade dips for my wargaming miniatures.😆
without any experiments it was clear for me that the results would be the same as any clear glossy finishing coat spray. The difference between this can and spray can is only viscosity corrected by adding more solvent into the spray coat for easier application.
Metal coat hanger! Cut a few lengths and shape into hooks as well as racks to hold pieces to dry
Glad u covered it at the end, yeah it might be better to just spray paint or airbrush a glossy varnish over it, the issue is after washing prints in IPA it tends to fog them and i've seen people polish prints after curing using a dremel with polishing head and paste.
Working on a project now that involves printing multiple bases in transparent resin, think i'll get Siraya Simple Transparent, will have to figure out the print settings, someone recommended using something like 1.5 sec exposure per layer, prob because it's transparent. Not sure about tinting it in the vat, i will prob just paint it with my airbrush using transparent paint.
yeah for sure spraying just seems more practical to me. Spraying and dipping at least seem to work well for prints that you really cant sand at all because of loosing detail by sanding
i used to do the same thing to small pla prints to help remove layer lines
I use elegoos translucent water washable resins. After wash and cure I hit them with a can of clear coat and they are like glass. May have to try this but I wonder if an airbrush would make a better coating, thin and consistent. This stuff is so fun
Just get some liquitex high gloss medium. I did this on some clear blue resin water I printed and after cure it was all foggy until I put the Liquitex on it. After that it become completely clear.
I just shoot clear coat from the can on transparent prints. Hasn't failed me yet. As a bonus, if you get uv protecting clear coat, it'll keep your prints safe in sunlight.
To avoid drips with thick lays of lacquer I made fixture out of two stepper motors which will rotate model in two planes. Works great!
Cool, but does it work for an FTM?