What hides 3D Print Layer Lines Better, Resin or Resin with Baby Powder
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- Опубліковано 31 тра 2024
- Comparing the process of using UV Cure Resin VS and Resin with Baby Powder added to cover a 3D print to remove layer lines.
I also have a Etsy store with some 3D print files but mostly svg files for lasers.
If that's something you may be interested it check it out
daverigdesign.etsy.com
Previous video on using using resin and baby powder here: • Hide 3D print layer li...
Paint mixer: daverigdesign.etsy.com/ca/lis...
If you would like to support my videos or get early access before they go live on UA-cam and files I'm able to share from my builds, check out my Patreon.
/ daverigdesign
Visit my amazon store for a list of products I've used in builds
amzn.to/3vvFOP2
Items used in this build:
Resin Used:
Amazon.com = amzn.to/46jWXsc
Amazon.ca = amzn.to/3PsTfFA
Paint used:
Blue:
Amazon.com = amzn.to/3RuUWoL
Amazon.ca = amzn.to/3rifNRB
Red:
Amazon.com = amzn.to/3RK7sRo
Amazon.ca = amzn.to/48OUBnc
White:
Amazon.com = amzn.to/45gPBER
Amazon.ca = amzn.to/3LHMHlB
Metallic Silver:
Amazon.com = amzn.to/3RngHa2
Amazon.ca = amzn.to/48pcbhm
AirBrush:
Amazon.com = amzn.to/3LDQmAQ
Amazon.ca = amzn.to/48xI5s8
UV lights:
Amazon.com = amzn.to/3PuNeIq
Amazon.ca = amzn.to/3PWIo8F
Motor for UV turntable
Amazon.com = amzn.to/3RuHTUk
Amazon.ca = amzn.to/3RyDGPm
Starbond CA glue:
Amazon.com = amzn.to/3EOI1X4
Amazon.ca = amzn.to/3PNMTCj
SandPaper: amzn.to/3uh4W9B
Popsicle sticks: amzn.to/32RjIZp
Clear Coat: amzn.to/3J0vW1h
Music by Epidemic sound: share.epidemicsound.com/kj1acc - Навчання та стиль
The progressively torn glove got me!
I liked the stair test. The resin and powder are great for coverage and deep lines that need to be filled. The resin only might be good for high detail areas where some of the detail needs to come through.
just resin would be good if you have a flat surface, just make sure it's level and pour the resin on and it will self level to a flat area with minimal sanding needed
I tried out the resin and baby powder after watching your video. It works great! I used it to fill in some seam lines. Since you gave me a tip, I'll give you one. If you want a more precise pour for the baby powder, just duct tape over some of the holes.
Could you just buy cornstarch in the can and use a spoon?
@onestoptechnologies7305 probably. Don’t think additives in the baby powder make a difference.
That staircase example was genius to show what is happening. Great video!
Thanks, Glad you liked it!
I appreciate the return of the non-disposable glove.
It seemed like the only reasonable thing to do :)
RC plane hobbyists for decades have used similar methods for sanding and smoothing while using epoxy/resins. Instead of Baby Powder, we used a product called Microballoons.
Great video, thank you. It would be great to see some destructive testing to see if one method or the other chips off more easily.
Awesome video! I love learning about how certain processes and steps differ at various points. Both of these resin coats have some benefits or drawbacks depending on the situation you need it for.
Hi. Corn starch tend to create a kind of gel. In epoxy, we frequently use fumed silica to achieve a thixotropic state (does not run). It could work as well with UV resin and it usually does not require a lot to work.
Thank you for adjusting the music.
Thanks for sharing your experience with us.
Good job on comparing the two methods! A few small gripes though: 1) when you first cured the resin+powder, you afterwards cured the resin only and resin+powder at the same time (so resin+powder got cured two times while resin only was cured one time) 2) please recommend to wetsand and use a mask while doing so as resin dust can be inhaled and quite toxic.
Ya I though about the curing and there wasn’t a easy way to avoid it. I tried to cure the one side a short amount at first to get the resin to set up, then for the 2nd side cure longer so both sides got a similar time in the chamber.
Wow! Great work and thank you for sharing your finishing process!!
My pleasure!
Cool and how awesome you customize your Glove! Nice!!!!!!!!!
I always love that airbrush pron! Gets me every time.
Everything is better with a slow-motion sequence, Baywatch taught us that :)
Thank you for the very detailed video. Much appreciated
Appreciate your humor, and helpful video!
Thanks for watching!
Very helpful. I've been putting off finishing a helmet but this has me inspired to tackle it soon.
Thank you for the video! I’ve been using XTC 3D and haven’t been happy with it. I’m going to try your concoction.
effective test. Thanks for showing us the process. I prefer the resin & powder finish.
I’m loving the curing station beat!
🤟
Wow, this one small change to my helmet finishing process to going to be so helpful! Glad I found this vid
Interesting idea. Will save a lot of time sending in the future.
Very nice comparison. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
nice video, very informative, i especially liked the stairs. Ive only used 2 part resin so i may need to get some uv for a future project
I really like the uv for its drying time. No waiting for it to cure.
awesome, glad you did this!!
Thank you for your video, the staging is superb and your steps have taught me a lot about proper use! I subscribe and I like ;)
Gracias esta genial la explicación, lo usare en mi siguiente impresión
Great video! 👏
Thanks 🙏
Your getting my sub just for saying “don’t forget to put on your gloves or everyone will remind you!” Love it
based on my last video I had no idea so many people that didn't know me were worried about my safety :)
This music goes hard.🤘
Thanks to your previous video I was able to fix, fill and smooth 3dprinted mask.... The process works as a charm.. i used potato starch and anycubic resin (aqua blue). The weight ratio was 2:1 (resin to starch). Used two uv sources (365 nm ~ 17w optical power and 395 nm uv led flashlight. In most cases illuminated about 2-10 sec per layer. Sanded only after building up all the layers. It took me about 2 hours to fully smooth the full face mask. Also used a small spatula attached to the drill to ensure good mixing of components.
Awesome!!!
Oh dear! when you did the stairs my brain went back to high school and just thought "giggity". Got a project im working on for my defab course and might use this. Thank you for taking the time and filming it.
yes... when looking back at the footage of the stairs I thought this may get some comments :)
I haven't even gotten my printer in the mail yet and I already feel powerful! I don't have the space needed for a resin printer and I was wondering if I could get resin-like finishes with PLA. I already cast with UV resin on a small scale, so this is gonna be fun! Thank you!
Clearly the resin and powder mixture is more viscous and less subject to capillary action effects, but this demo is great for looking at smoothing larger surfaces with limited rising (versus sinking) detail. Would love to see the effects of doing this with a model with a lot of surface detail (like a model of a starship or something like that with a lot of varying surface details).
It's really interesting to see the viscosity difference between the two. What I would really like to see, would be how that compares with using a two-part epoxy tabletop resin. I Make my own filament, to whatever color specification that I want, with sparkle effect. I typically just essentially dip my entire model, in tabletop resin. And then I hang it to let it cure. And amazingly, the layer lines vanish, the color becomes so much more vibrant, and any effect particulates in the base material, is absolutely amazing. But what I most curious about, is how a high viscosity resin, which has surface tension modifiers designed to self-level, and enhanced coverage. Versus a grade of resin that is designed to shed off of the parts, and designed to be as thin as possible.
do you think dipping the part and then spraying primer would work? I've been searching if people have dipped their prints in resin yet, as I've had the idea for some time now just haven't tried it. I know you use tabletop resin but I was thinking about using UV resin. Tabletop resin might be better though! something to think about and try one day :) thanks!
Issue with dipping a part is it won’t leave a uniform coat. It will be thicker at the bottom as the resin collects at the bottom of the print.
Maybe this is fine or if the resin is thin enough it won’t be an issue.
@@DaveRigDesign that's true. I thought it might be an issue. Can you dilute resin and airbrush it on? or is it just more practical to be meticulous with a brush? lol
I’ve heard you can spray resin but it’s kinda dangerous and messy. I wouldn’t suggest trying unless you really research the proper way to do it
@@PikachusGiftI dip my parts using resin thinned with IPA, and then rotate the part in a homemade rig I have. It comes out pretty nice and even, then primer.
There is an kinda infamous video a UA-camr did spraying resin, with no safety equipment either. It seems it works well but I would be really really careful with it. I’ve played with the idea before but I would use a sealed chamber with a UV light on the filter to polymerize the airborne resin to help reduce the health risk as it filters. Still wouldn’t recommend it though
Nice editing
Thanks 🙏
Thank you 4 the music volume change
NIce! Off to get baby powder
I actually still saw some print lines on the top of the resin only side and quite noticeable ones near and on the detail area again on the resin only side.
That coupled with how much more sanding was necessary to smooth out the surface, makes Resin and powder the winner hands down
Nice work! THX ^^
Encuentro que el acabado de resina+talco queda mejor, gracias por hacer la comparación!! Saludos
Seems like they both have their place. the PR seems good for larger areas and in a more general use case. I think the thinner R might be good for much smaller areas. a toothpick or needle to apply it to thin lines to help smooth out the lines in the hard to reach areas. maybe even places you can't sand. just a light thin single coat just to take away some of the harshness of the layers in those thin lines.
Interesting! One tip: Sand before the application of the resin, and you'll end up with a much nicer finish. :)
Normally, logic dictates that you should use a thinner resin mix for each coat. So I’d advise a thick baby powder resin mix for the first coat, a second coat diluted with more resin and a final one with pure resin.
I also wonder if there’s a way to take this process into account at the moment of printing : making the model details slightly more pronounced so that when the resin is applied the « smoothing » of those areas match better the expected final result, and/or on the contrary had a bit of « waste » material on the areas that will be more heavily sanded afterwards.
I found the thin was just hard to control. I feel it’s best for flat surfaces where you can apply it and let it self level. Then you could just apply 1 coat and be done.
On anything else the thick is better and I think all you need is 3 coats. 1st does 80% of the work, 2nd the next 19% and the last coat is just to fill the little pin holes/bubbles or missed spots. Could use glazing putty for this step also instead.
Printing with this in mind could work in limited cases. Like if you have seams or groves making them extra deep would mean they won’t get filled in as easy.
Thanks for sharing
Great videos.
Thanks 🙏
I love the music the curing station makes me feel in a rave
Everyone said in the previous video is looked like a night club so I figured I’d give it the musics to match :)
I love how the blue glove hung on for dear life throughout the video. RIP blue glove
I might print in an M10 bolt hole in the underside to drill mount for a fast and even sand.
The psychedelic magic mushroom rave cure scenes brought me here.
Also I'd love to see a video where you do different ratios of resin to powder like 1:8, 1:4 and 1:2 powder to resin
Well the thickness depends on the use case and preference. There would be a limit to how much powder you can add but anything between that is fine
Lol I feel a bit called out in this video and for that you gained a subscriber lol.
But yeah I kinda figured it was just a viscosity thing. Something I noticed is that the powder seems good for big surface areas and the plain resin seems better for smaller areas that you need more fine control on. So it might be a case for using both techniques during an application for different parts of what you're working on.
My experience with these is that, if youre not covering the entire piece, the edge where the resin stops and the plastic part meet doesnt have a smooth transition. There will be a small lip no matter how fine you sand due to the lack of adhesion of the resin to the part.
3rd idea that popped into my head as you did this… resin with powdered filament (the same filament that you used to print the object with) I was thinking it might be similar to mica powder pigment that is used with epoxy
This is getting added to the playbooks of so many cosplayers as the definitive comparison.
You can do adaptive layers too, so the top is not as steep of layer changes.
Great content! As a sugestion you sould try using Kaolin clay powder, you can find in extreme fine grit, and has better compatibility with resins, and other polymers. The final surface is great...
Thanks :)
Never heard of Kaolin powder, I’ll have to check it out.
I think you could also use gesso, it is used in art stores to prime canvases, and that would give it grip, you give it a pass, you sand it and you could paint it
The glove is back!
always need to wear gloves when working with Resin :)
@@DaveRigDesignEven after you tear a huge hole in them rendering them useless? :)
Would you mix powder into something like the xtc 3d?
At 15:20 there are still visible layer lines on the resin-only side. Could you airbrush resin to get it on more evenly? It may take more time and steps, since you're adding a tiny bit each time though.
I would like to see this attempted on objects with a lot of geometric features and right angles. Flat surfaces and corners, especially on a smaller objects. Like a box with a latch or a picatinny rail or hinges and mounts that need to fit together or need to fit other non printed objects with some degree of precision.
Maybe even a set of slightly enlarged threaded bolts and nuts. The modular mounting system on thingiverse fulfills a lot of these suggestions. I'm curious how difficult the process would be and how much extra time it might take.
14:07 I love the fake slowmo 😎
Thanks. Everything is better with a slowmo montage :)
I use the spot putty + acetone technique, the spot putty sands way more easy and helps save time in my opinion.
it's just the opposite approach, thinning a thick product instead of thickening a thin one. :)
@@DaveRigDesign even with spot putty without acetone I feel it’s much easier to sand since it’s softer , resin is much harder so takes more effort to sand , can even sand easily spot putty with a scuff pad cause it’s so easy to remove material. But your way is also cool never thought of adding baby powder to resin , I’m gonna have to try that !
Hi Dave. Is there a specific reason you used corn starch baby powder as opposed to talc? Curious. Very cool video!
That’s what was available. :)
I don’t think you can get talc based powder here anymore due to the cancer concerns with talc.
How does it look with colored resin and no paint/primer
I think both application processes could be useful depending on what you want to do with your 3D print.
Passed out 13 times but your resin and poweder resin is ready
you could still see the banding on the resin only side of the close up beauty shots
Id like to see if adding even more powder reduces the amount of coats you need to apply. basically turning it into something like a thin paste.
Very nice test.
Could this be useful for "failed" vase print that is not completely water tight, to make them water tigth
Yup. Coating either the inside or outside would make a print water tight.
Which filament was used for the hemisphere? The color is absolutely beautiful!
It was polymaker blue
Have you tested something like self leveling resins? I would be curious to see how well that would work to get rid of layer lines
It should work great on a flat surface :)
If you want a stronger coverage try adding aluminum powder, it makes it tough but can be brittle, great for scratches
Cool tip, thanks.
Do you happen to have a video on how you made the curing station with the black lights?
No but I have to make a bigger one so I may do a small video making that.
Most interesting. How about on miniature terrain? BTW the gloves hahahahaha.
Should work on Mimi terrain depending on the amount of detail on it.
Nice video! I have a question for everyone working with resins. I want to use micro-extrusion to extrude some paste that exists of 80% metal powder and 20% resin to keep the powder togheter after curing. I can't use UV resin because the light will not cure the center enough (I think). Do you have any experience on resins that can do this on room temperature?
I've seem people make resin castings where they mixed iron powder into 2 part resin and then poured it into a mold.
It’s good to note that resin can over cure and look worse because of it. So the baby powder and resin side is exposed to UV for 2 times as long reducing its initial luster.
Also note that UV Curable resin will deteriorate when exposed to sunlight without sufficient post processing to seal them in.
For people without a UV curing chamber, is there a thin epoxy resin you'd recommend for this?
if you want to use a 2 part epoxy I like Ice Epoxy
amzn.to/3v0XH8s
but you could also just get a hand held UV light
amzn.to/3v6hbII
Great video - really well explained and I'm about to try this out myself! However, as a resin noob, can I ask how long you hit it with the UV light? It's going to be on a helmet so I don't have a chamber - just a hand held lamp. Thanks :D
It kinda depends on the strength of your light and thickness of the coat of resin. I’m working on a something now needing hand held lighting and I’m doing 20 sec or so. If you put a little resin on some paper or tinfoil and shin your light in it you can see or harden and get a idea how long it takes
@@DaveRigDesign Thank you so much for replying - and also for the advice. I think have a failed helmet print somewhere I can try that out on. I thought it was going to be 15 minutes or something like that, so knowing it's probably going to be shorter is quite encouraging :D Keep up the good work!
hmmm.. baby powder. but which type to use? corn starch as current baby powder is made from or talc, which is what it used to be made from?
here it seems they have switch to a cornstarch base due to the health concerns around talc I believe.
That's great! Now what would the process and results look like if you had used ABS?
Should be a similar process. ABS is a little easier to sand and you have the option to vapor smooth ABS also
Great result, does the powder have to be cornstarch or will any baby powder work?
Any would work. Where I am baby powder is cornstarch based due to the cancer concerns with Talc. But talc is a more traditional thickening additive I’m told :)
i guess the powder would be a way to fill the lines but if you were to mold this and want to get a shiny finish you could do the last coat with only resin
Couldn't you just prime a few times before painting, without the resin/powder resin coating?
Thank you for the video, where did you get the lazy susan from? thank you
It’s nothing special. I bought it at either the dollar store or Walmart
thank you@@DaveRigDesign
Hi, I'm also printing a sphere with lots of detail at the moment (Ahsoka map ball), do you think it would be helpfull to put some sort of plasticine or rubber like substance in all the details, and afterwards remove the plasticine/rubber substance, to better preserve the details ?
This way you wouldn't have to worry about getting resin inside the details.
Any thoughts on that and what sort of substance would be best for removal afterwards ?
Thanks in advance.
I’ve though of using plasticine or clay or wax. Just need to be something that stick well enough to not fall out but not so well you can’t get it out at the end.
In my new video I tried dabbing the resin on over the detailed area and it worked pretty well. Maybe that’s a option if just going slow and apply carefully.
@@DaveRigDesign I was following a video about finishing the ball, but he had printed it with resin (so he didn't have to sand or anything at all I believe), myself I printed it with an FDM printer. In the video he printed it in black and then painted it in gold, the detailed lines and holes remain black. So I thought when using your resin method, that I need to somehow fill in the holes and lines with something else that I can remove after applying the resin, so that the black lines and holes become visible again. Because I think that applying the resin will fill in al the holes and lines ( there are so many ;) )
Maybe some of that white wood glue, because when that's dry, it's easily removable I think ? Another question is that if you cover the whole ball with resin, if you try to remove the wood glue, will you tear to much resin back off ?
@iljacoveliers5834 maybe it will be easier to use glazing putty for this project. It’s easier to control where it goes and you don’t need to worry about getting it in places you don’t.
I have a video about that process also
@@DaveRigDesign Ok. Thanks, I'll be watching that !!!
I’m interested in the can spray spinner drill bit! Can you 3D print that or did you buy it?
I designed it and cut it out on my laser out of wood. But it could be 3D printed also and glued together.
Link is in the description the the files on my Etsy store
I'd be curious to know what your results are if you were to use standard UV curing resin (the type you use with a silicon mold) with this baby powder process, instead of the UV resin made for 3d printers that you seem to be using in this video. Is there any difference between the two, not just in performance, but also cost?
never used that kind so can't say.
@@DaveRigDesign Might be something worth trying out in the future? I believe a bottle is not too expensive on Amazon or a local craft/art shop.
The mold type doesn't work so well in a 3D printer. I had to replace my base plate after accidentally using the mold resin. The pieces did not print correctly either. Between the viscosity and the light used for layer printing it just didn't work out correctly for me.
Maybe if I had done some test runs or checked into it, things would have been different.
The bottle of mold-resin I had was actually a miss-ship. I ordered a bottle of one resin (that I had been using) from the place I regularly got it through, but received a different type of resin in a very similar bottle. I should have been more attentive to my purchase. Would have saved me a plate and film replacement....
@@nobodyshome6792 I think you misunderstood what I was asking. To clarify, I wasn't asking whether he could use mold resin 'inside' a resin printer to 3d print something. I was asking if he could use mold resin with the baby powder in his layer line smoothing process shown in this video. I was curious to know if it is as effective as him using uv print resin (for this post process only), and whether it might also be a cheaper option than buying a bottle of uv print resin.
@@Old_and_Wise fair enough.
Though, I have found that the mold resin is more expensive from the source I buy resin from. (By about 4 dollars per half-liter.)
I almost never use an FDM printer, instead preferring my vat-resin printer.
I wonder whether the powder just increases the viscosity of the resin. Since resin comes in different thicknesses, is there a difference between powdered resin and thick resin? I would love to see a head to head if you can think of a way to “fairly” test the difference.
A thicker resin should act the same as adding powder. But resins for 3D printing tend to be thin so they can flow under the print bed easily.
You could get special resin but if you already have a resin printer then you already have the resin on hand :)
@@DaveRigDesign Ah yeah of course, that makes so much sense.
I prefer resin with fumed silica. An added advantage is increased tensile strength.
Could save some time tuning your printer and slowing down the jobs. Maybe check your MM per step for your extruder as well.
just out of curiosity, im new to the resin post-processing scene, what is the ratio of baby powered to resin?
Really is just how thick you want it to be. Maybe 50/50 and adjust from there
@@DaveRigDesign oh perfect, wasn't totally sure if there was a magic ratio or not. Definitely going to try this on my next print :)
Congrats for both videos! I'm thinking to add the technique to my printings. I haven't work with resin so far and the UV Cure time would be an issue for me problably. How long does it takes for the tests u made? Tks.
Curing takes a minute or so. It’s the best part of using us resin :)
Great! Wich brand do you recommend?
@@neyperes5332 any of the major brands should do. I normally use elegoo for printing so have that on hand.
I used this method for my print and used my wife’s nail Uv lights and it was still tacky so I put it out in the sun, still tack an hour later. Could it be that I put too much cornstarch powder? Or too thick of layers
@reikyjimenez9097 you just need to wipe the print down with some isopropyl alcohol and it will remove the tackiness.
I wonder if the resin can be air-brushed instead of brushed. This might cut down on the build-up.
I have seen this done but it's a dangerous process. You need to know what your doing and do the proper prep work.
Not sure it would give any better results either other then covering large areas faster.
It's extremely dangerous to atomize resin, please don't even think about it!
I lookin to get into 3dprinting is this like filling before painting? Whats the purpose of this
Yes, you would do this if you want to paint, especially a glossy finish. For a flat finish you don’t need to worry about being as smooth.
What is that black glue you used on the little cup?
It’s just CA glue also known as crazy glue.
The brand I’m using is Starbond but there are others. There is an Amazon link in the description also.
I'd like to see how it compares to acetone smoothing. I think the use cases are different, but surely there must be some overlap, so I'd like to see what the difference is when given the option
Acetone only works with ABS though. Doesn’t have a effect on PLA
@DaveRigDesign what solutes work with resin since acetone doesn't work as well. EtOH?
@@alex.elgringoI use spot glazing putty mixed with acetone. A 2:1 putty-acetone mix makes it like a slurry and then you can either paint it on or airbrush it on
After it dries, you can sand it down and then reapply.
@@HeliosKou cool thanks!
What about using something like cornstarch instead of powder? It would still be a binding agent but should reduce the milkyness.
It is cornstarch
@@DaveRigDesign ahh mine is Talc
Does it have to be uv resin or can you use epoxy? What would the difference be?
Epoxy would work also. Difference is drying time. I like UV because you can work it as long as you want and then hit it with the UV light to cure instantly.