For the sonoff you should have a 10A braeker. And the most households (i guess) have 16A breaker installed, therefore the shelly is safer. Because if theres something wrong (eg. short circuit) its more likely that the sonoff will break/burn down, before the breaker trips - unless you have a 10A breaker. Thats why i like the shellys more, it gives me a better feeling in terms of safety. Because the breaker trips before the shelly hits its maximum. Correct me if im wrong!:D Afterall, as always, a very nice video!
I'm sure you can buy 10 amp Breakers but 15amp breakers are the standard for house wiring in the US. I do like the idea of using the shelly and ordered one but the price is $16 dollars US and that's more than twice what I can get the Sonoff mini for.
Just found your channel, love your style of video, thank you. I'm deep in the HA rabbit hole and have gone with Sonoff Mini. This is because I'm flashing every smart device with Tasmota and using Hubitat Elevation to control them all. I needed 18 Minis to cover all the lighting circuits and found some good deals from a well known chinese supplier. Bought 20 for £106
Consider smart wall switches as well - may save you some money depending on your set up especially if you want to use Zigbee for sensors. This is a great way to build up a strong Zigbee Mesh - and thank you
Matt: To my mind and many others, the question of SMART devices not being safety certified [UL listed in USA] poses a huge RISK for use in any built-in application. It would be deemed ILLEGAL and insurance companies would deny claims if these non-certified devices are used in the electrical system.. I notice the SHELLY1-UL, Shelly1PM-UL, SHELLY 2.5-UL devices have the UL certs.. That would make those, hand's down, the only winner in the category.
Sonoff devices do come with CE certificate which is in compliance with EU. It's true that not all devices hold the certificate (or not all devices has one available online) but it's a stretch to assume that device isn't safe because currently doesn't hold a certificate from one country or another. If you are verse enough to make a call which country certificate makes the device "safe" feel free. I'm not going to as topic is more complex than just not having a compliment device. In line with your assumption raspberry pi isn't safe in about 150 countries to be used. www.raspberrypi.org/blog/compliance-and-why-raspberry-pi-4-may-not-be-available-in-your-country-yet/
I have bought sonoff mini but my current switch is two way so it has live (common) and l1 and l2 there is no Netrual wire can sonoff mini work with this setup?
Good review but what about: Clean conact of Shelly1 ?(If you want to switch different volatge than power supply) 12V and 24-60V DC power supply ? 2 years warranty ? Just for ligting you are right, but home automation do not mean smart lighting :)
So guys! when would we see Shelly 2,0? I adore your firmware (people miss that point) I'd love to get my hands on that. While I totally appreciate the low voltage option (I'm not sure if you can see who uses LV vs HV via app) I'd simply love to see 2 SKUs this way? (I know its a more expensive, but I think it would be worth it?) Anyhow. Great to have options!
Hi, nice video! Has Shelly a "dry contact"? I need to switch on/off a boiler for radiators (its electric pumps), i need to "short circuit" his cables, without use the 220v. Thanks!
Shelly 1 has no external antenna. I use Shelly uni for some outer use. Shelly uni has more stable wireless connection from 15 meter away, then inside the flat. Shelly has weak internal antenna, it should have external connection.
There are hacks to add the external antenna but to do this well you would need to tune the resistance of it. Perhaps this will help. Also is your Shelly inside the metal electric box or behind the metal switch plate?
Hello mate, thanks for your great videos, I have a question please, if you have single press switch with LED inside it that goes off when light is on and goes on when light is off, then the sonoff mini will not work, right? Cheers
@@notenoughtech Thanks for the reply mate, actually I have no problem with the space, my problem is the led on the wall switch, it needs Power + when the switch is off so the LED goes on, and my understanding I cannot use any Power or Neutral on the Sonoff mini S1 and S2m while under Shelly I can, am I right please? Note I have Power and Neutral behind the swicth
The difference between between sonoff and shelly is that sonoff uses 3.3V to send around the switch loop, and shelly has the relay loop on a completely separate circuit. notenoughtech.com/featured/using-smart-light-switches/ Take a look at this article too. You should have one 2 cables connected to the switch and 2 cables connected to the bulb loop and L & N connected to sonoff Mini
@@notenoughtechthanks for that. I've read that through. I think the majority of switches in my house have a live and switch live only connected. So should be fine wiring the live to L and switch live to L1?
@@kraddoomsters Shelly 1 is a dry relay. It takes mains voltage or DC according to specification then you can use the relay to switch any voltage within relay specification as the relay isn't powered
@@kraddoomsters dry or detached relay means that relay acts like a wall switch. It doesn't supply power it just brakes the connection. Sonoff mini uses relay to deliver or stop mains. Shelly just breaks the continuity of whatever voltage you supplied to the relay (not to Shelly device)
Shelly, even with additional wago, still fits better inside the round european electic wall box.
For the sonoff you should have a 10A braeker. And the most households (i guess) have 16A breaker installed, therefore the shelly is safer. Because if theres something wrong (eg. short circuit) its more likely that the sonoff will break/burn down, before the breaker trips - unless you have a 10A breaker.
Thats why i like the shellys more, it gives me a better feeling in terms of safety. Because the breaker trips before the shelly hits its maximum.
Correct me if im wrong!:D
Afterall, as always, a very nice video!
I'm sure you can buy 10 amp Breakers but 15amp breakers are the standard for house wiring in the US.
I do like the idea of using the shelly and ordered one but the price is $16 dollars US and that's more than twice what I can get the Sonoff mini for.
Just found your channel, love your style of video, thank you.
I'm deep in the HA rabbit hole and have gone with Sonoff Mini.
This is because I'm flashing every smart device with Tasmota and using Hubitat Elevation to control them all.
I needed 18 Minis to cover all the lighting circuits and found some good deals from a well known chinese supplier.
Bought 20 for £106
Consider smart wall switches as well - may save you some money depending on your set up especially if you want to use Zigbee for sensors. This is a great way to build up a strong Zigbee Mesh - and thank you
Excellent, simple but clear, and useful info. Good job.
Very nice review. Thank you !
Matt:
To my mind and many others, the question of SMART devices not being safety certified [UL listed in USA] poses a huge RISK for use in any built-in application. It would be deemed ILLEGAL and insurance companies would deny claims if these non-certified devices are used in the electrical system.. I notice the SHELLY1-UL, Shelly1PM-UL, SHELLY 2.5-UL devices have the UL certs..
That would make those, hand's down, the only winner in the category.
Sonoff devices do come with CE certificate which is in compliance with EU.
It's true that not all devices hold the certificate (or not all devices has one available online) but it's a stretch to assume that device isn't safe because currently doesn't hold a certificate from one country or another.
If you are verse enough to make a call which country certificate makes the device "safe" feel free.
I'm not going to as topic is more complex than just not having a compliment device.
In line with your assumption raspberry pi isn't safe in about 150 countries to be used.
www.raspberrypi.org/blog/compliance-and-why-raspberry-pi-4-may-not-be-available-in-your-country-yet/
Great review! Thanks
Cheers
I have bought sonoff mini but my current switch is two way so it has live (common) and l1 and l2 there is no Netrual wire can sonoff mini work with this setup?
To my knowledge there is only one diagram for this. Check out the itead store front. The show you the diagram for 2 switches
very interesting review...and well done. You are very helpful, thanks again
My pleasure
Good review but what about:
Clean conact of Shelly1 ?(If you want to switch different volatge than power supply)
12V and 24-60V DC power supply ?
2 years warranty ?
Just for ligting you are right, but home automation do not mean smart lighting :)
So guys! when would we see Shelly 2,0? I adore your firmware (people miss that point) I'd love to get my hands on that. While I totally appreciate the low voltage option (I'm not sure if you can see who uses LV vs HV via app) I'd simply love to see 2 SKUs this way? (I know its a more expensive, but I think it would be worth it?) Anyhow. Great to have options!
@@notenoughtech very soon and will be amazing :)
Cant wait!
@@dimitardimitrov849 I hope with zigbee support.
Hi, nice video! Has Shelly a "dry contact"? I need to switch on/off a boiler for radiators (its electric pumps), i need to "short circuit" his cables, without use the 220v. Thanks!
Shelly 1 is the one you need
Shelly 1 has no external antenna. I use Shelly uni for some outer use. Shelly uni has more stable wireless connection from 15 meter away, then inside the flat. Shelly has weak internal antenna, it should have external connection.
There are hacks to add the external antenna but to do this well you would need to tune the resistance of it. Perhaps this will help. Also is your Shelly inside the metal electric box or behind the metal switch plate?
Why cant you connect the mains wiring straight to the Shelly rather than using connector terminal blocks?
Because you need to close the circuit for ceiling lights and shelly terminals are to small to push more than one cable in
Hello mate, thanks for your great videos, I have a question please, if you have single press switch with LED inside it that goes off when light is on and goes on when light is off, then the sonoff mini will not work, right?
Cheers
This would depends on the switch you have - if you cannot fit the mini behind the switch as there is no neutral you can do this in the ceiling mount
@@notenoughtech Thanks for the reply mate, actually I have no problem with the space, my problem is the led on the wall switch, it needs Power + when the switch is off so the LED goes on, and my understanding I cannot use any Power or Neutral on the Sonoff mini S1 and S2m while under Shelly I can, am I right please?
Note I have Power and Neutral behind the swicth
The difference between between sonoff and shelly is that sonoff uses 3.3V to send around the switch loop, and shelly has the relay loop on a completely separate circuit.
notenoughtech.com/featured/using-smart-light-switches/
Take a look at this article too.
You should have one 2 cables connected to the switch and 2 cables connected to the bulb loop and L & N connected to sonoff Mini
Is there a no neutral wire solution for this? Just want to stick one of these on a switch that's hard to reach
Take a look at this notenoughtech.com/featured/using-smart-light-switches/
@@notenoughtechthanks for that. I've read that through. I think the majority of switches in my house have a live and switch live only connected. So should be fine wiring the live to L and switch live to L1?
Yes I use one of those In my bedroom check the follow up one about smarter wall switch
@@notenoughtech suppose you mean this one ua-cam.com/video/bfzEhtFm0pM/v-deo.html
This one:
notenoughtech.com/home-automation/creating-a-smarter-light-switch/
Can I use any of these 2 to "smartify" a cheap USB-powered lamp? (PlayStation Icons Light)
Shelly would let you do it as it has dry contacts.
@@notenoughtech but shelly needs 12V power supply, and usb is 5V, or what am I missing?
@@kraddoomsters Shelly 1 is a dry relay. It takes mains voltage or DC according to specification then you can use the relay to switch any voltage within relay specification as the relay isn't powered
@@notenoughtech I'll search for some videos on what that means and how to do it 😅🙈
@@kraddoomsters dry or detached relay means that relay acts like a wall switch. It doesn't supply power it just brakes the connection. Sonoff mini uses relay to deliver or stop mains. Shelly just breaks the continuity of whatever voltage you supplied to the relay (not to Shelly device)
"what if you're not a filthy casual..." rotfl!
Then you probably don't need all that advice hahha 👍