Thanks this thing been sitting in the corner of my shop collecting dust for years.Thank you for showing us how to use it made my first box it's so easy thxs again your a God send
I'm glad that you were finally able to make your first box Curtis. That's awesome. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave your kind words on the show.
Can’t say thank you enough. I bought my Incra iBox Jig about 3 years ago and have never been able to figure it out. Incra’s video is very intimidating and confusing. Their documentation is worse. I watched your video and successfully made my first box joints for a Christmas gift I’m making. Thank you so much!!
This is great news. I'm glad that the tutorial was able to help you out. Because I don't use the jig on a regular basis, when I do use it, I usually require a refresher "course". For that, I had a quick start guide that runs you through all the setup in order to get it done without having to go through the manual or my video again. If you'd like a copy of those quick start notes, you can always send me an email and I would be more than happy to send it to you. Thanks for tuning in.
I was having a complete brain meltdown trying to figure out why my boxes were not fitting correctly they were always mismatched. your even tone and Explanation made it clear to me what I was doing wrong. I was not using pencil marks and facing them in the right direction. I appreciate your time in making this video it saved me Countless hours. I watched Incra's video three times and it's an hour long they make it too complicated to listen to and much more difficult than it really is. yours was short and sweet.
Glad that you liked the show and found it to be helpful Anthony. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave your kind words. Good luck on your box making projects.
I thoroughly enjoy your videos. Your knowledge and instructive style is engaging and extremely informative. I’m just a hacker, but I enjoy spending time in my shop. I made your collapsible rocking for my grandson and was very pleased with the way it turned out. I often refer to tips and lessons you have imparted and find them invaluable. Thank you very much!
You're very welcome Anthony. I'm glad to hear that you enjoy the channel and that you were able to make one of the projects. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave your kind words. It's truly appreciated.
Thanks for a clear, understandable video on the Incra jig. I’ll be using the jig for the first time this week, and have been a bit worried about the initial setup. Your video has calmed me down.
This jig is a fantastic addition to any shop and it really works well. I'm glad that you found the show useful. Good luck with your jig and remember that it takes time to learn the ins and outs of a new jig. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thanks, Ken. I just set up my jig yesterday and also found out that the pieces did not fit. I corrected it and voila! Now I could join them. However my four sides (fortunately just an old fence board) did not fit together at all. After watching your video I know now how to cut each side. You explain that much better than in the original instructional video from Incra!
Glad that you found the video to be useful. Sometimes, the written instructions of some projects are not as clear as an actual demonstration. Enjoy your jig and thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks for your reply, Ken. I made my first little plywood box. The joints are so tight there is no room for glue. I will try to re-cut them if that is possible after loosening with the silver wheel. I wonder if that is even possible or if it will destroy my test box.
@@TubeHammel I've never tried to "re-cut" the finger joints on a test box. If it is just a test box, I usually just cut the fingers off and then re-cut them. Glad to hear that you are one step closer to getting it perfect.
Very detailed and you covered everything there is to know in setting up and using this jig properly. Many people out there claim they cannot get this jig to work and I know if they watch your video and follow it properly, they will have excellent results. If not, then they didn’t follow something right.
Thank you very much for the kind words on the show. I truly love this jig and have never had bad results when using it, regardless of the size of the box. It's a little different when using it with a router, as you have to clamp every cut to the fence to keep the stock from being pulled along the bit and ruining your joints but as far as the table saw use, it is effortless. I love this little jig. Thank you so much for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave such and encouraging and supportive comment. I truly appreciate your support.
Every time I buy a tool I look and see if you have a video demo of it and more than likely you do. I bought an Incra I-Box and you had done an excellent video of it. I just got mine today after making a few jewelry boxes for my young great grand girls and they don't live up to my standards on the homemade finger joint jig I built some time ago and decided to buy the Incra.
I would to say thank you for this video. You have a way on explaining how things work, for this i am thankful. I have just bought the Incra I Box. I am a pen turner and i am planning on making pen boxes. Because of you I can get started. Take care and be safe.
Glad to hear that you found the video to be useful Eddie. It's always nice to hear positive feedback from good folks like yourself. Good luck with your pen boxes. I just know that they are going to be great. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave the kind words. It's very much appreciated.
Watching this helped to clear up a few questions I had about making the cuts. Very helpful thanks. I will say though, it took me two afternoons and about thirty test cuts to finally get a good joint. Ultimately, the jig works pretty well but for someone just starting out with this thing, it's pretty easy to get overwhelmed with the amount of setup involved. But like anything else, after going through it a few dozen times, the process becomes clearer.
I'm glad that the show helped you Maurice but I have to honestly say that I am surprised at the amount of time that it took to get some good joints. I have to wonder where the issue lies. The setup on this jig is a simple one and honestly shouldn't take two afternoons. After leaving the jig alone for several months I sometimes need a little refresher on the setup of the jig but even that only takes about 30 minutes and 2-3 attempts to get a perfect joint. I truly hope that this becomes easier for you as the jig truly is an incredible and useful unit. Thanks for tuning in.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Well you are correct that the actual etup takes about thirty minutes. What I meant was that the number of steps involves might discourage someone from having to remember all that goes into setting up and producing a good joint. As for the time involved, firstly I was doing this on a router table which introduces a few unique elements. Secondly, my "two afternoons" were about 2-3 hours each. Most of the time involved was in tweaking the jig to get a perfect box. Each mistake meant starting over with four fresh sides. Then it takes time to select, cut, mark, tweak the jig and try again. Once I figured out the correct sequence and positioning of the pieces, the fitment in the joint needs to be adjusted. Not knowing how much adjustment would be needed to make a better fit, meant several more tries, each time requiring four freshly cut and marked sides. As I said, once you've done it a bunch of times, you remember what to do and what not to do. But initially, it can take some time to turn out a good looking box. But if someone approaches this jig thinking they can "slap it" on their table saw and produce great looking boxes right away, they might be disappointed. Especially if they are making different sized joints.
Thanks Kenny, very helpful. I’ve had this jig for a couple of years and got some great results. A handy technique I use is to mill the stock at least one finger width wider than the desired final width (or depth of the finished box), cut the fingers then saw off the excess flush with one of the fingers. Much easier than trying to calculate the width based on the number of cuts, if that makes sense. Cheers mate, John
It does make sense John. If you didn't want to do any figuring, then that would be a great suggestion. I haven't run into a situation where the board didn't automatically adjust for the fingers. I'm sure I will though as I use the jig more and more. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave a comment.
At 9:20 when you adjust the red knob you didn’t loosen the black knob on top. Is that correct? I just got the jig last night and after 2 hours of fiddling with it I barely had decent results. I’m afraid to try it on an actual project because I went through about 15 test cuts before I had a good fitting joint.
The top black set knob will be loosened for any adjustment Scott and then it will be tightened again for making a cut. Once you have it set, and are getting good cuts, there shouldn't be anything else to set up for other stock as long as you are using the same thickness of stock and the same sized finger joints for your project. It doesn't seem right that you are having to make 15 test cuts. 1 or 2 should normally be enough. If you'd like, I have typed up a quick reference instructional cheat sheet that I use in the shop to run through the setup when I haven't used the jig for a while and I can send it to you to see if it will help. Drop me an email at acutabove_woodworking@hotmail.com and I would be happy to send it your way. Thanks for tuning in.
Thank you very much for the kind words on the show Greg. I truly appreciate it. It's comments like yours that make all the work well worth the effort. Thank you for tuning in.
Great videos on the I Box. I want to love this thing, but am really struggling with consistency. For example, everything looks good and fits well on three sides. I'll come back the next day to finish the job and the fit is off. This time, too tight. I didn't change anything. So it must have been human error, I'm just not sure what I did differently. I didn't rush, was very careful. Frustrating, but I'll keep trying.
I have to admit that I have never started a project and then left part way through to complete it the next day. I have always started and finished the joinery in one session. As with any jig, there are adjustments that can be made and it can be cumbersome but once you get it, it's fantastic. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
You might want to check out my show on rust removal for cast iron tools. You can find it here. ua-cam.com/video/EFyJGzeXn_0/v-deo.html The one major difference between what I demonstrate in that show and what I do now, I that I no longer use Glide Cote as my main means of protection. Instead, I have started using a product called Autosol metal polish. It takes a little bit of elbow grease but the stuff is amazing for polishing the cast iron and it leaves a durable coating on the cast iron that protects it from tarnishing for a long time. You should give it a try. Here's a link to the Autosol polish if you are interested. www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/supplies/polishing/67014-autosol-metal-polish?item=54Z1510 Thanks for tuning in to the show. It's very much appreciated.
It can be a little overwhelming at first Adam but if you take your time and work with the jig, the results are well worth the effort. It isn't as complicated as most folk seem to make it. Glad that you found the show useful. Thanks for tuning in.
Well Kenny. I finally pulled the trigger today and purchased the Incra Ibox finger jointing jig. Whilst I was at it I added an Incra Miter 1000se.. I’ve not unboxed them yet as she won’t let me in the house at the moment. Hope she comes around soon. It’s cold outside. 😢
LOL. You are going to LOVE those accessories Malcolm. They are really awesome. I hope she comes around soon my friend. I wouldn't want the INCRA stuff to get cold. Thanks for tuning in.
I was eager to see your 'project' video using the I-box. Great job! The more you use the jig the more comfortable you'll feel. I get very nervous as well with this all-metal jig on the SawStop. I've made 7/8" long fingers (max recommended for the jig) and had less than 1/16" clearance between the blade and the aluminum rail. Whew! I always am very tedious in setting up the jig ensuring proper blade clearance. Can't wait to see future projects using the I-box! After you clock a few more miles on the jig I'll send you that 'challenge' I mentioned in your previous video. Thank you!
Looking forward to the challenge. I'm sure it will bet a good one. Thanks for tuning in to the show again this week and for the kind words on the show.
You're very welcome Gary. I'm only too glad to be your quick reference for the jig. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave a comment. I appreciate it.
I believe that the original INCRAjig was a basic jig for making specific and repeatable crosscuts whereas the iBox is strictly for box joints. Having never really worked with the original INCRAjig, it's really hard for me to compare the two. Sorry I can't give more information on this. Thanks for tuning in.
I’m making a jewelry box that will have a slide in tray . The inside of the box is 10 inches long and 5 inches wide and will have finger joints. Do i have to add a 1/4 inch or more to the length and width because of the finger joints ?
I you want the interior dimensions to be a certain measurement, you need to add a certain amount to each end of the boards to compensate for the finger joints. The "certain amount" is determined by the thickness of your stock. If you are making the case out of 1/2" thick boards, then you would need to add 1/2" at each end so you would have to add 1" to your dimension. I'm not sure where you got the 1/4" measurement from because that would suggest that you are making your case out of 1/8" thick stock. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
@@dcganske That's correct. You will lose 1/4" at each end for the finger joints so you will have to make adjustments for that. Adding 1/2" will give you the interior dimensions that you need. If you are making a box based on exterior measurements, then you don't need to adjust for anything because the length of your boards determine the outside dimensions but because you are making it based on interior dimensions, you have to compensate for the finger joints.
I think it would depend on the thickness of the material Robert. After all, the guide fingers still have to be used to align the cuts to make the joint tight and if the guid fingers wont extend far enough into the second (or outer) piece, then there is no registration to make sure the finger joints fit properly. I think that thinner material might be okay though as long as you clamped the pieces together for each cut. (which may cut down on the production speed). I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment Robert. I appreciate it.
Makes sense @@acutabove_woodworkings --all about those guide fingers I see. Similar, but not quite the same as Incra's jumbo right angle fixture for stacking dovetails cuts (e.g. making multiple drawer sides). Best
I guess, as long as the boards were thin enough that they were fully seated on the indexing pin on the jig, you might be able to cut more than one at a time. I personally wouldn't recommend it because I think it would cause issues with alignment and clamping. I hope this helps James. Thanks for tuning in.
I love this jig, but I only seem to use it once or twice a year, each time I need a refresher LOL and your video was just what I needed, Domo! Cheers from Tokyo!
I don't use mine as much as I would like to but when I do use it, I absolutely love it and am glad that I bought it. Thanks for tuning in all the way from Tokyo. Glad to hear that my show was the refresher you needed. (to be honest, I have to watch my own show to refresh my memory from time to time to)
@@raymondfirth5077 This jig is available at most woodworking supply stores. It can also be purchased from Lee Valley tools or from INCRA directly. www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=69814&cat=1,43000 www.incra.com/precision_fences-ibox.html I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Ken, great video of how the jig works. My only concern is that it sure seems like a lot of fiddling and adjusting to finally get it the way it needs to be. I guess that after you use it a few times a lot of it will become second nature. Good information. Will I buy one? Not sure at this point. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for chiming in Paul. At the beginning, there is quite a bit of adjusting but it quickly becomes second nature. So far, the results are worth the fiddling. I'm enjoying the jig for sure. Thanks for tuning in sir. Great to hear from you once again.
I made so many box joint jigs and bought a couple but so confusing and I mess up always so I was thinking of trying this infra jig but I just watched this video of a guy I think in Finland make a few boxes In minuets on his router table with no jigs now I’m confused again
I too have made plenty of shop made finger jointing jigs but I have to say the iBox has worked flawlessly since purchasing it and I've never wanted a shop made one since. If you ever have any questions, you can always feel free to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Kenny, thanks so much for your work on these videos. One question when you made your adjustment for the first version that was too tight, do you have to loosen the black knob on top to make that adjustment?
Hi Pat. Thanks for tuning in and for contacting me. The answer to your question is "yes", you have to loosen the black set knob on top of the jig in order to make any adjustments. The black knob, locks the fingers in their positions so you would have to loosen it in order to make adjustments. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
When you set the silver fingers 1/8" from the blade before your first cut, that determines the width of the first "finger" . Should you desire a wider finger to match a wider dado blade slot, would you increase this? You were not clear as to why you picked 1/8 inch.
The 1/8" is just an arbitrary measurement as suggested by the manufacturer. It determines the distance for the top or initial finger of the joint. The subsequent finger widths are determined by your dado set. I used a 1/4" dado setup for this box and you can see that even with a 1/8" distance between the blade and the fingers, the box does not look out of place with the smaller finger at the top. The reason for this is because it eventually becomes almost symmetrical when the box is completed. If you wanted a larger area finger at the top or bottom of the box you are making, you could most definitely increase the measurement between the guide fingers and the blade. I hope this helps and answers your question. Thanks for tuning in to the show. I appreciate your support.
@@acutabove_woodworkings After reviewing more videos on the INCRA website, it appears that as you expand the fingers to adjust to a larger dado cut, the right/blade-side silver finger moves further away from the blade at approx. 1/2 the rate of the left side silver finger. That would create a larger first box finger. A'm I correct?
@@ralphbuoncristiani2941 Sorry, I missed your question there. Yes sir, you are correct. From what I understand, the 1/8" measurement at the beginning is just a setup measurement and the jig automatically adjusts for the larger dados depending on how wide you need to set the guide fingers apart. Pretty slick actually.
Not at all. I know that in some districts, dado blades are not available and if that is the case for you, this jig can also be used on a router table. You can find that demonstration here. ua-cam.com/video/VBqW4NZ62kQ/v-deo.html I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
This jig is also useable with the router table. Your comments Malcolm, just make me think that I should do a video on the router table set up and use. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@robertgiles1119 I honestly have to wonder as well, why the UK doesn't have a blade that is such a large part of woodworking, cabinet making etc. I know that there are other ways to cut a dado but the dado blade is one of the simplest ways there is. Thanks for tuning in to the show Robert. I appreciate it.
Caliper the blade then lock the caliper then adjust pin from blade to outside pin wall using calipers with same blade measurement then adjust pin inside measurement using calipers to same measurements on caliper.Now, everything should be set for your blade thickness.
As like anything, there is always a different method to do thing and if this method works for you, then that's awesome. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to chime in with your setup suggestion. I'm sure that some viewers will find your suggestion to be extremely useful.
I've never heard of this. By the third attempt, there's no way that it should still be loose and not lining up. There is definitely something not right.
Best way to do this is with a caliper. Get your blade width then make sure its the same from inside blade to pin and then the same inside the pin. This way everything is the same measurement. Then use the adjuster wheel to fine tune if needed. Once set ur good to go.
A technical way of setup that has the potential to eliminate the test cuts. Thanks for the suggestion for setup. I'm sure it will be helpful to many of the other viewers. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thanks this thing been sitting in the corner of my shop collecting dust for years.Thank you for showing us how to use it made my first box it's so easy thxs again your a God send
I'm glad that you were finally able to make your first box Curtis. That's awesome. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave your kind words on the show.
Can’t say thank you enough. I bought my Incra iBox Jig about 3 years ago and have never been able to figure it out. Incra’s video is very intimidating and confusing. Their documentation is worse. I watched your video and successfully made my first box joints for a Christmas gift I’m making. Thank you so much!!
This is great news. I'm glad that the tutorial was able to help you out. Because I don't use the jig on a regular basis, when I do use it, I usually require a refresher "course". For that, I had a quick start guide that runs you through all the setup in order to get it done without having to go through the manual or my video again. If you'd like a copy of those quick start notes, you can always send me an email and I would be more than happy to send it to you. Thanks for tuning in.
Kenny, that is the best, clearest explanation and practical demonstration of the I-Box that I have seen. Excellent!
Glad that you liked it Rick. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for the kind words.
I was having a complete brain meltdown trying to figure out why my boxes were not fitting correctly they were always mismatched. your even tone and Explanation made it clear to me what I was doing wrong. I was not using pencil marks and facing them in the right direction. I appreciate your time in making this video it saved me Countless hours. I watched Incra's video three times and it's an hour long they make it too complicated to listen to and much more difficult than it really is. yours was short and sweet.
Glad that you liked the show and found it to be helpful Anthony. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave your kind words. Good luck on your box making projects.
Me too brother! I love the jig but it seems a little over complicated.
I thoroughly enjoy your videos. Your knowledge and instructive style is engaging and extremely informative. I’m just a hacker, but I enjoy spending time in my shop. I made your collapsible rocking for my grandson and was very pleased with the way it turned out. I often refer to tips and lessons you have imparted and find them invaluable. Thank you very much!
You're very welcome Anthony. I'm glad to hear that you enjoy the channel and that you were able to make one of the projects. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave your kind words. It's truly appreciated.
Thanks for a clear, understandable video on the Incra jig. I’ll be using the jig for the first time this week, and have been a bit worried about the initial setup. Your video has calmed me down.
This jig is a fantastic addition to any shop and it really works well. I'm glad that you found the show useful. Good luck with your jig and remember that it takes time to learn the ins and outs of a new jig. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thanks, Ken. I just set up my jig yesterday and also found out that the pieces did not fit. I corrected it and voila! Now I could join them. However my four sides (fortunately just an old fence board) did not fit together at all.
After watching your video I know now how to cut each side. You explain that much better than in the original instructional video from Incra!
Glad that you found the video to be useful. Sometimes, the written instructions of some projects are not as clear as an actual demonstration. Enjoy your jig and thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks for your reply, Ken. I made my first little plywood box. The joints are so tight there is no room for glue. I will try to re-cut them if that is possible after loosening with the silver wheel. I wonder if that is even possible or if it will destroy my test box.
@@TubeHammel I've never tried to "re-cut" the finger joints on a test box. If it is just a test box, I usually just cut the fingers off and then re-cut them. Glad to hear that you are one step closer to getting it perfect.
I also just got this jig, and it took me a couple of tries to get it dialed in right. Thanks for this video it really helped me get it just right.
I'm glad that you found the video to be useful Tony. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave your comment. It's appreciated.
Very detailed and you covered everything there is to know in setting up and using this jig properly. Many people out there claim they cannot get this jig to work and I know if they watch your video and follow it properly, they will have excellent results. If not, then they didn’t follow something right.
Thank you very much for the kind words on the show. I truly love this jig and have never had bad results when using it, regardless of the size of the box. It's a little different when using it with a router, as you have to clamp every cut to the fence to keep the stock from being pulled along the bit and ruining your joints but as far as the table saw use, it is effortless. I love this little jig. Thank you so much for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave such and encouraging and supportive comment. I truly appreciate your support.
Every time I buy a tool I look and see if you have a video demo of it and more than likely you do. I bought an Incra I-Box and you had done an excellent video of it. I just got mine today after making a few jewelry boxes for my young great grand girls and they don't live up to my standards on the homemade finger joint jig I built some time ago and decided to buy the Incra.
Well I hope that you enjoy the iBox Tom. I've had great success with it and I hope you do too. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I would to say thank you for this video. You have a way on explaining how things work, for this i am thankful. I have just bought the Incra I Box. I am a pen turner and i am planning on making pen boxes. Because of you I can get started. Take care and be safe.
Glad to hear that you found the video to be useful Eddie. It's always nice to hear positive feedback from good folks like yourself. Good luck with your pen boxes. I just know that they are going to be great. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave the kind words. It's very much appreciated.
Watching this helped to clear up a few questions I had about making the cuts. Very helpful thanks. I will say though, it took me two afternoons and about thirty test cuts to finally get a good joint. Ultimately, the jig works pretty well but for someone just starting out with this thing, it's pretty easy to get overwhelmed with the amount of setup involved. But like anything else, after going through it a few dozen times, the process becomes clearer.
I'm glad that the show helped you Maurice but I have to honestly say that I am surprised at the amount of time that it took to get some good joints. I have to wonder where the issue lies. The setup on this jig is a simple one and honestly shouldn't take two afternoons. After leaving the jig alone for several months I sometimes need a little refresher on the setup of the jig but even that only takes about 30 minutes and 2-3 attempts to get a perfect joint. I truly hope that this becomes easier for you as the jig truly is an incredible and useful unit. Thanks for tuning in.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Well you are correct that the actual etup takes about thirty minutes. What I meant was that the number of steps involves might discourage someone from having to remember all that goes into setting up and producing a good joint. As for the time involved, firstly I was doing this on a router table which introduces a few unique elements. Secondly, my "two afternoons" were about 2-3 hours each. Most of the time involved was in tweaking the jig to get a perfect box. Each mistake meant starting over with four fresh sides. Then it takes time to select, cut, mark, tweak the jig and try again. Once I figured out the correct sequence and positioning of the pieces, the fitment in the joint needs to be adjusted. Not knowing how much adjustment would be needed to make a better fit, meant several more tries, each time requiring four freshly cut and marked sides. As I said, once you've done it a bunch of times, you remember what to do and what not to do. But initially, it can take some time to turn out a good looking box. But if someone approaches this jig thinking they can "slap it" on their table saw and produce great looking boxes right away, they might be disappointed. Especially if they are making different sized joints.
Thanks! Excellent setup video and looking forward to getting this into action. Much appreciated.
Glad that you liked it. Thanks for tuning in and good luck with your setup.
very well made and simple to understand video. Thank you.
You're very welcome David. I'm glad that you found the show to be useful. Thanks for tuning in.
Thanks Kenny, very helpful. I’ve had this jig for a couple of years and got some great results. A handy technique I use is to mill the stock at least one finger width wider than the desired final width (or depth of the finished box), cut the fingers then saw off the excess flush with one of the fingers. Much easier than trying to calculate the width based on the number of cuts, if that makes sense. Cheers mate, John
It does make sense John. If you didn't want to do any figuring, then that would be a great suggestion. I haven't run into a situation where the board didn't automatically adjust for the fingers. I'm sure I will though as I use the jig more and more. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave a comment.
Outstanding instructional video. Just bought one and can't wait to use it on rough cut pine that I plane out. Good job mate!
Glad to hear that you found the show to be useful. Good luck with your jig. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I had the same issue with my initial setup and made 2 or 3 test before getting dialed in, Awesome tutorial. Take Care.
Glad to hear that you enjoyed the tutorial Thom. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment. I really appreciate it.
At 9:20 when you adjust the red knob you didn’t loosen the black knob on top. Is that correct? I just got the jig last night and after 2 hours of fiddling with it I barely had decent results.
I’m afraid to try it on an actual project because I went through about 15 test cuts before I had a good fitting joint.
The top black set knob will be loosened for any adjustment Scott and then it will be tightened again for making a cut. Once you have it set, and are getting good cuts, there shouldn't be anything else to set up for other stock as long as you are using the same thickness of stock and the same sized finger joints for your project. It doesn't seem right that you are having to make 15 test cuts. 1 or 2 should normally be enough. If you'd like, I have typed up a quick reference instructional cheat sheet that I use in the shop to run through the setup when I haven't used the jig for a while and I can send it to you to see if it will help. Drop me an email at acutabove_woodworking@hotmail.com and I would be happy to send it your way. Thanks for tuning in.
I always enjoy and learn from your vid’s
Glad to hear it Harley. Any time that someone can take something positive away from my show is a win situation. Thanks for tuning in.
Great Job ! A good reference . Your Camera placement and Video quality are EXCELLENT !
Thank you very much for the kind words on the show Greg. I truly appreciate it. It's comments like yours that make all the work well worth the effort. Thank you for tuning in.
Great videos on the I Box. I want to love this thing, but am really struggling with consistency. For example, everything looks good and fits well on three sides. I'll come back the next day to finish the job and the fit is off. This time, too tight. I didn't change anything. So it must have been human error, I'm just not sure what I did differently. I didn't rush, was very careful. Frustrating, but I'll keep trying.
I have to admit that I have never started a project and then left part way through to complete it the next day. I have always started and finished the joinery in one session. As with any jig, there are adjustments that can be made and it can be cumbersome but once you get it, it's fantastic. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I want to know how you keep the top of your table saw so clean and shiny.
You might want to check out my show on rust removal for cast iron tools. You can find it here. ua-cam.com/video/EFyJGzeXn_0/v-deo.html
The one major difference between what I demonstrate in that show and what I do now, I that I no longer use Glide Cote as my main means of protection. Instead, I have started using a product called Autosol metal polish. It takes a little bit of elbow grease but the stuff is amazing for polishing the cast iron and it leaves a durable coating on the cast iron that protects it from tarnishing for a long time. You should give it a try. Here's a link to the Autosol polish if you are interested. www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/supplies/polishing/67014-autosol-metal-polish?item=54Z1510
Thanks for tuning in to the show. It's very much appreciated.
Thanks for this review, the I-box initially seemed complicated but the way you explain it makes perfect sense.
It can be a little overwhelming at first Adam but if you take your time and work with the jig, the results are well worth the effort. It isn't as complicated as most folk seem to make it. Glad that you found the show useful. Thanks for tuning in.
Great video, thank you for taking the time to shoot it.
You're very welcome Terry. Glad that you liked it. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Very nice job thank you for sharing great tips 👍🏼👍🏼
You're very welcome Tomas. Thanks for tuning in sir. Great to hear from you as always.
Aweome. Thank you for this!
You're very welcome Justin. I hope you found it to be useful. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Well Kenny. I finally pulled the trigger today and purchased the Incra Ibox finger jointing jig. Whilst I was at it I added an Incra Miter 1000se..
I’ve not unboxed them yet as she won’t let me in the house at the moment.
Hope she comes around soon. It’s cold outside. 😢
LOL. You are going to LOVE those accessories Malcolm. They are really awesome. I hope she comes around soon my friend. I wouldn't want the INCRA stuff to get cold. Thanks for tuning in.
I was eager to see your 'project' video using the I-box. Great job! The more you use the jig the more comfortable you'll feel. I get very nervous as well with this all-metal jig on the SawStop. I've made 7/8" long fingers (max recommended for the jig) and had less than 1/16" clearance between the blade and the aluminum rail. Whew! I always am very tedious in setting up the jig ensuring proper blade clearance. Can't wait to see future projects using the I-box! After you clock a few more miles on the jig I'll send you that 'challenge' I mentioned in your previous video. Thank you!
Looking forward to the challenge. I'm sure it will bet a good one. Thanks for tuning in to the show again this week and for the kind words on the show.
Thanks Kenny. I have the jig. But if I don’t use it for a while I forget all of the adjustments. I am saving this video for future reference.
You're very welcome Gary. I'm only too glad to be your quick reference for the jig. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave a comment. I appreciate it.
I bought this and love it!
Glad to hear that you love the jig. I love mine as well. It truly is a fantastic finger jointing jig. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Great demo! Question, is there any advantage to the ibox over the original incrajig?
I believe that the original INCRAjig was a basic jig for making specific and repeatable crosscuts whereas the iBox is strictly for box joints. Having never really worked with the original INCRAjig, it's really hard for me to compare the two. Sorry I can't give more information on this. Thanks for tuning in.
Very helpful!
Glad that you liked it Keith. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
I’m making a jewelry box that will have a slide in tray . The inside of the box is 10 inches long and 5 inches wide and will have finger joints. Do i have to add a 1/4 inch or more to the length and width because of the finger joints ?
I you want the interior dimensions to be a certain measurement, you need to add a certain amount to each end of the boards to compensate for the finger joints. The "certain amount" is determined by the thickness of your stock. If you are making the case out of 1/2" thick boards, then you would need to add 1/2" at each end so you would have to add 1" to your dimension. I'm not sure where you got the 1/4" measurement from because that would suggest that you are making your case out of 1/8" thick stock. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
@@acutabove_woodworkings thank you for your reply. The stock im using is a 1/4 inch so i would be adding a half inch to my stock is that right?
@@dcganske That's correct. You will lose 1/4" at each end for the finger joints so you will have to make adjustments for that. Adding 1/2" will give you the interior dimensions that you need. If you are making a box based on exterior measurements, then you don't need to adjust for anything because the length of your boards determine the outside dimensions but because you are making it based on interior dimensions, you have to compensate for the finger joints.
@@acutabove_woodworkings thank you so much for replying back and helping me with my questions.
@@dcganske You're very welcome.
Superb demo. I’m curious if you can stack two identical sides together for faster production?
I think it would depend on the thickness of the material Robert. After all, the guide fingers still have to be used to align the cuts to make the joint tight and if the guid fingers wont extend far enough into the second (or outer) piece, then there is no registration to make sure the finger joints fit properly. I think that thinner material might be okay though as long as you clamped the pieces together for each cut. (which may cut down on the production speed). I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment Robert. I appreciate it.
Makes sense @@acutabove_woodworkings --all about those guide fingers I see. Similar, but not quite the same as Incra's jumbo right angle fixture for stacking dovetails cuts (e.g. making multiple drawer sides). Best
Only one way to find out for sure @@takeniteasyfriend . We're going to have to try that and see.
Your joints look very tight! Thanks
Thanks Robert. I appreciate the kind words and you tuning in to the show.
How about running two boards at the same time would that work ?
I guess, as long as the boards were thin enough that they were fully seated on the indexing pin on the jig, you might be able to cut more than one at a time. I personally wouldn't recommend it because I think it would cause issues with alignment and clamping. I hope this helps James. Thanks for tuning in.
Thank you.
You're very welcome. I hope you were able to take something positive away from the show. Thanks for tuning in.
I love this jig, but I only seem to use it once or twice a year, each time I need a refresher LOL and your video was just what I needed, Domo!
Cheers from Tokyo!
I don't use mine as much as I would like to but when I do use it, I absolutely love it and am glad that I bought it. Thanks for tuning in all the way from Tokyo. Glad to hear that my show was the refresher you needed. (to be honest, I have to watch my own show to refresh my memory from time to time to)
@@acutabove_woodworkings where do you get this jig from
@@raymondfirth5077 This jig is available at most woodworking supply stores. It can also be purchased from Lee Valley tools or from INCRA directly. www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=69814&cat=1,43000
www.incra.com/precision_fences-ibox.html
I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Ken, great video of how the jig works. My only concern is that it sure seems like a lot of fiddling and adjusting to finally get it the way it needs to be. I guess that after you use it a few times a lot of it will become second nature. Good information. Will I buy one? Not sure at this point. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for chiming in Paul. At the beginning, there is quite a bit of adjusting but it quickly becomes second nature. So far, the results are worth the fiddling. I'm enjoying the jig for sure. Thanks for tuning in sir. Great to hear from you once again.
Great tutorial! Thank you!!!
Thanks for the kind words Steve. I appreciate it. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I made so many box joint jigs and bought a couple but so confusing and I mess up always so I was thinking of trying this infra jig but I just watched this video of a guy I think in Finland make a few boxes In minuets on his router table with no jigs now I’m confused again
I too have made plenty of shop made finger jointing jigs but I have to say the iBox has worked flawlessly since purchasing it and I've never wanted a shop made one since. If you ever have any questions, you can always feel free to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Incra makes good stuff. I made a box joint jig following williamNG video. It works great.
I agree Doug. There has not been a single INCRA product that has disappointed me. Just love their stuff. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Kenny, thanks so much for your work on these videos. One question when you made your adjustment for the first version that was too tight, do you have to loosen the black knob on top to make that adjustment?
Hi Pat. Thanks for tuning in and for contacting me. The answer to your question is "yes", you have to loosen the black set knob on top of the jig in order to make any adjustments. The black knob, locks the fingers in their positions so you would have to loosen it in order to make adjustments. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
When you set the silver fingers 1/8" from the blade before your first cut, that determines the width of the first "finger" . Should you desire a wider finger to match a wider dado blade slot, would you increase this? You were not clear as to why you picked 1/8 inch.
The 1/8" is just an arbitrary measurement as suggested by the manufacturer. It determines the distance for the top or initial finger of the joint. The subsequent finger widths are determined by your dado set. I used a 1/4" dado setup for this box and you can see that even with a 1/8" distance between the blade and the fingers, the box does not look out of place with the smaller finger at the top. The reason for this is because it eventually becomes almost symmetrical when the box is completed. If you wanted a larger area finger at the top or bottom of the box you are making, you could most definitely increase the measurement between the guide fingers and the blade. I hope this helps and answers your question. Thanks for tuning in to the show. I appreciate your support.
@@acutabove_woodworkings After reviewing more videos on the INCRA website, it appears that as you expand the fingers to adjust to a larger dado cut, the right/blade-side silver finger moves further away from the blade at approx. 1/2 the rate of the left side silver finger. That would create a larger first box finger. A'm I correct?
@@ralphbuoncristiani2941 Sorry, I missed your question there. Yes sir, you are correct. From what I understand, the 1/8" measurement at the beginning is just a setup measurement and the jig automatically adjusts for the larger dados depending on how wide you need to set the guide fingers apart. Pretty slick actually.
I gather you need dado blade?
Not at all. I know that in some districts, dado blades are not available and if that is the case for you, this jig can also be used on a router table. You can find that demonstration here. ua-cam.com/video/VBqW4NZ62kQ/v-deo.html
I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I would love one Kenny but over here in the UK dado blades are banned so it would have to be used with a router table only.
This jig is also useable with the router table. Your comments Malcolm, just make me think that I should do a video on the router table set up and use. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings great idea!
@@Aardrijk1 Thankyou sir. Look for that router table demonstration coming soon on the channel.
So Malcolm, the UK must know something about dado blades I need to know. What do I watch out for?
@@robertgiles1119 I honestly have to wonder as well, why the UK doesn't have a blade that is such a large part of woodworking, cabinet making etc. I know that there are other ways to cut a dado but the dado blade is one of the simplest ways there is. Thanks for tuning in to the show Robert. I appreciate it.
Caliper the blade then lock the caliper then adjust pin from blade to outside pin wall using calipers with same blade measurement then adjust pin inside measurement using calipers to same measurements on caliper.Now, everything should be set for your blade thickness.
As like anything, there is always a different method to do thing and if this method works for you, then that's awesome. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to chime in with your setup suggestion. I'm sure that some viewers will find your suggestion to be extremely useful.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Just another way to do it.The method you showed works great too.
I'm on my 3rd and still got a long way to go. They don't match at all. Too loose. Will keep playing with it. A bit frustrating though.
I've never heard of this. By the third attempt, there's no way that it should still be loose and not lining up. There is definitely something not right.
Best way to do this is with a caliper. Get your blade width then make sure its the same from inside blade to pin and then the same inside the pin. This way everything is the same measurement. Then use the adjuster wheel to fine tune if needed. Once set ur good to go.
A technical way of setup that has the potential to eliminate the test cuts. Thanks for the suggestion for setup. I'm sure it will be helpful to many of the other viewers. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
edit- adjust pin outside measurement NOT inside.
LOL. Correction noted. Thanks for tuning in.
Why did I watch the Incra vid
I hope this means that you liked the video and found it useful. Thanks for tuning in.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Yes indeed!!
@@hgohlke Glad to hear it.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Like i said before you are the Walter White of Woodworking. You made me buy so many things:) Next is a Hammer B3
@@hgohlke Glad that I can feed your addiction. I hope you like the B3.
By not showing your mistakes and exactly how to fix it made this video pointless in my opinion.
And what mistakes would you be referring to Jason?