One of the best router table Incra Box Jig tutorials out there. I will be following along while I setup my projects to make sure all goes well. Thanks for the great video.
You're very welcome Tim. You just have to remember that you need to clamp down your piece for each pass. Otherwise, the bit will grab and mess up your piece. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave the kind words. Good luck on your project.
That was a brilliant demo. Are you a paid teacher? You're very concise & it all just flows without any humming & harring. Well done & thank you very much.
I am not a teacher at all, unless you consider what I do here on my channel as teaching. In fact, I am an electrician during the day. I just love what I do on the channel and in the shop. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave the kind words. It's very much appreciated.
Hey Kenny. I got one of these for Chrismas several years ago and never used it. After watching your video last week I decided to use it. I was asked to build a cabinet to keep the keys to the hotel rooms and two cabins at Ritter Springs, here in Oregon, in recently. So I decided to use that jig to make the box joints for the cabinet. After watching your video it was pretty easy to use and the little cabinet came out really nice and they were really happy with it. So thanks again for your video and taking the time to really get into things and explain them like most don't do. Appreciate your help very much. Respectfully Jim
I'm glad to hear that the show was useful to you Jim and that you were able to get your jig to work because of it. I just finished replying to another viewer who complained that I do too much explaining and that I talk too much. I basically said that there are plenty of people who aren't fond of my show style but there are enough people that it helps, that it makes it worth it to me. It's comments like yours that confirm that I'm doing things the right way. Thanks for tuning in and for the kind words. It's truly appreciated.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Well Kenny here's the deal as I see it. I'm 75 years old. Now that does not mean that I am getting too old or anything like that. I can do things guy's half my age can't do. The point is that in my life I have read hundreds of books on woodworking, reloading, welding you name it. I can't remember one 1/100th of what I read out of those books. But I can remember seeing something done and have always, my entire life been able to grasp a concept by watching it being done as opposed to reading about it. So for my money, what you do in your video's in invaluable to me. If people think you talk too much or get too detailed in explaining things, that's their problem and they can always go to a different channel and watch something else. That being said I do know for a fact that there are a lot of people that go onto UA-cam and complain about anything and everything even if they do like what they saw. So keep up the good video's Kenny. I really appreciate what you do and really like your detailed explanations. So for the rest of us that like what you do, keep it up. And you other guy's, well, your free to go somewhere else anytime you like. JIm
@@jimscott64 I couldn't agree with you more. Some people, like myself, are visual learners. This show was created in the first place as a way to help people and teach them something. It's pretty hard to teach something in a 10 minute video, where nothing is explained, every clip is in 10X fast forward, and there are no dimensions given. I'm glad that there are still people out there who understand the quality of taking your time. Thanks again for the kind words Jim.
Thanks for the kind words Thom. I love this jig. I've only had mine for a short while but I am always pleased with the results and the fact that they are consistent and repeatable is a great thing. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave me a comment.
Glad to hear that you are finding the show useful Steve. I hope that there will be other episodes of the show that you enjoy. Thanks for tuning in and taking the time to leave a comment. I truly appreciate it.
Tomorrow I'll receive an Incra ibox. My intention was to set it up for use at the table saw but after your router table demonstration I think the router table would be a better idea. The table saw gets used so frequently whereas the router table is once a week or so. Thanks for the video.
Glad that you liked the show Penny. I will point out that using the router table works perfectly but you do have to clamp your stock in place for every pass as the router bit does want to grab it and put it to one side or another. As long as you clamp it in place, you should have absolutely no issues at all. Good luck on your finger joints and thanks for tuning in to the show.
Hi Kenny - its a BIG THANK YOU from me to you! I’ve just discovered this video and watched it and great, you have solved a problem. My wife bought me the ibox jig as a birthday present over 12 months ago and it has been sat, unused, in my workshop ever since. Oh, course she wants to know why I haven’t used it. Here’s why - The Incra literature and DVD that comes with the jig appears to focus on using it with a dado stack blade. I’m in the UK and my European table saw will not take a dado blade. So the only option is to use it on my router table, however, I found the Incra information regarding the router table set-up rather ambiguous and I was concerned not to damage this expensive piece of kit. So its been collecting dust, until now. Your video is great as it provides the step by step set-up information that gives me the confidence to set up and use the jig - BRILLIANT! So tomorrow I will view your video again (perhaps again and again) and get this very useful present earning its keep and perhaps make my wife a well deserved oak jewellery box. Again thanks for a very precise and helpful video. Perhaps in future you might help me further and consider demonstating a couple of projects using the jig on the router table? All the best from the UK.
You're very welcome Mike. I'm glad that the video has helped you. One thing I would suggest, is that when routing each cut, I would clamp the piece that you are working on to the fence. The router bit LOVES to grab that wood and pull it in one direction. Also, remember that by using a scrap backer board when routing with the jig, the cuts on the back side of the stock are much cleaner with little tear out. Good luck with your project and thanks for tuning in. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks for replying Kenny and for the advice. Have you any specific recommendations regarding router bits to use with the jig?
@@mikevyvyan7060 I have had good results with a double flute 1/4" straight bit. www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=42886&cat=1,46168,69435,46171 I prefer the 1/2" shank though as apposed to the 1/4" shank. I find it has less chatter. I hope this helps.
Well, this video just made up my mind for me. I'll be sticking with my Leigh jig. For all the time I'm going to be making all the adjustments and micro adjustments, I can have my drawer finished on my Leigh.
I also have the Leigh jig and it is an exceptional piece of equipment. I personally enjoy both jigs but it is obviously up to the user which one they prefer. I'm glad that the video was able to help you make a decision. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave your comment. It's appreciated.
Ken, thanks for doing this video. Ever since you first got the jig I hoped that you would do a video of using it on the router table. Well, you came through and I am as impressed with how it works on the router table as I was as to how well it works on the table saw. Looks like all the adjustments are getting a little more natural for you. I guess once the baseline adjustments are made the fine tuning wouldn’t be that bad. Thumbs up from me this week.
Thanks for the kind words on the show and the demonstration Paul. This jig, like any jig, gets easier to use the more you use it the more you familiarize yourself with it. It's just the natural progression of working with tools. The more you use it, the better you get. Thanks for tuning in this week. Glad to hear that you enjoyed the show.
If the clamp helps so much, maybe consider adding a toggle clamp to the top of the guard (the part with the acrylic window)? That way you can quickly clamp back against the backer board as easily as flipping a switch. Thanks for the videos showing how it works though. Helps me decide whether or not I want to buy one.
This is an excellent suggestion Adam. Thanks for chiming in with it. Any time that we can free up our hand, hold down our stock and keep our finger 100% clear of the cutters, it's a good thing and your suggestion is right on the money with all three of those things. Thanks for the kind words on the show. I truly appreciate it and I appreciate you tuning in to the program.
@@jimmiller8389 I don't think Adam meant to actually attach it directly to the plexiglass shield. I think he meant to attach it in that general area. You are right though, I wouldn't attach it directly to the shield. Not nearly strong enough. Thanks for chiming in Jim and for tuning in to the show.
What a great video very well explained and easy to understand you also mentioned here in England they don’t do a table saw that takes a dado blade well axminster do a table saw that you can put a dado blade on and about time to I’ve just had one delivered whoop whoop 👍👍👍
That's fantastic Martin. Congratulations on the new toy. I hope it serves you well. Thanks for tuning in and taking the time to leave the kind words on the show. It's very much appreciated.
I decided to use my new JessEm Mast-R-Lift II and make Incra I Box joints. I used my 1/4" straight bits but noticed a little tear out so I ordered a Whiteside Router Bits RU2100 Standard Spiral Bit with Up Cut. It made a very very smooth cut and I will never use a straight cut bit again. It was keeping the Incra from allowing the bit from moving through the box cut as it was causing it from tearing out so after I got the spiral bit it worked perfectly no many how many times I ran the bit through the cut.
Up-cut spirals are a great choice for this application Tom. I have a couple of them and I have to agree with you. They are fantastic. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for chiming in with your methods and bit suggestion. I love it.
Glad that you found it useful Marlin. I still use this jig to this day and still love it. My preferred method is to use it on the table saw but the router table works well too. Just remember, that when using it on the router table, clamping your pieces in place before routing is a step that can not be skipped. The pieces have to be clamped in place. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave a comment.
You're very welcome Bob. I'm glad that you found the show useful. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment. I truly appreciate it.
Thanks Barry. I appreciate the kind words. Knowing how to do something is easy....trying to explain it on video so that others can understand it, is difficult. Glad to know that people are understanding and liking the program. Thanks for chiming in with your compliment and for tuning in to the show this week. You know I appreciate it.
Ken, Great video. There isn't much information on using the IBox with a router table. I just got my IBox and used it today to test. What a disaster, as I used plywood for my test. I watched your video and see that you do not recommend using plywood on the router/iBox. What bits do you recommend for the router/ibox configuration? Do you use the spiral-up cut or the down cut? Look forward to following you on your just announced webpage.
I normally use a double fluted straight bit John but I have also used spiral up-cut bits with great results as well. The key to using the router table is clamping. That spinning bit loves to grab the work and pull it to one side or the other so it is important to clamp with every pass. I would definitely not recommend plywood for the router table setup. There is just too much tear-out at the back end of the piece. Glad that you found the show to be useful. Thanks for tuning in and I hope you enjoy the website.
Now you are asking something. That router table is no longer used in my shop and I actually ended up giving it away when I bought my Jessem router table. The one I used in this video was a Freud router table but I added an after market router lift to it that worked with a plunge router. It was kind of a Frankenstein's monster of a setup but it worked really, really well. I can't even provide you with a brand for the router lift mechanism because I bought it at a woodworking trade show over 20 years ago. Sorry I can't help more on this one. Thanks for tuning in.
Very good instructional video on the setup and use of this jig.. I'm going to purchase this Incra jig soon. My question is your constantly going to have to change the backer board out just like in a dovetail jig I would assume? Thanks for another good video
I have made many projects and never changed out the backboard. I just shift it a little for each project. After the first cut, the backboard acts like a zero clearance insert and minimizes the tear out. Eventually, you will have to replace it but I can't see it happening for quite a while yet. If you are going to use it on a router table, be sure to clamp your pieces well in the jig to prevent them from shifting. Glad that you enjoyed the show. Thanks for tuning in and good luck with your new jig.
Kenny, do you get better results from table saw or router? I like the idea on using router table as I have a saw stop and worried that using the kiss method it just might activate the brake. Thanks
This will actually be a two part answer here Tom. The results on the table saw, versus the router table are the same. The jig automatically adjusts to any variations between the two and the results are flawless with either method. The thing that I am not a fan of when it comes to the router table is the fact that the router bit likes to grab and shift your stock with every pass. This means that you have to clamp your stock down well to avoid having it shift. It can become tedious. With the table saw, the blade is cutting at right angles to the piece so clamping isn't as important and I find there is less chance of error. As for your SawStop, you have nothing to worry about. I too use the jig on a SawStop and the "kiss calibration" is just for the initial set up. In fact, the SawStop can help you with the "kiss". Just rotate the knob until the fingers actually touch your blade and the red light starts flashing on your saw's control panel. Then back the fingers off just a tiny bit until the red light stops flashing. The "kiss calibration" is now done. As you adjust your jig to set the fingers for your first project, you will see that as the setup continues, the jig automatically moves the finger further and further away from the blade. As long as you have done things correctly, by the time you are ready to make a cut, they are nowhere near the blade and cannot set off the safety feature of the SawStop. A quick pass of the jig in a "dry run" past the blade with the machine shut off will prove this and ease your mind. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to ask your question. It is very much appreciated.
Great idea! I don't have a dado blade because my saw is truly crappy and I need a better one soon. However, I do have a tolerable router table and this will work with it, I think. Thanks, as always for your informative videos.
It would appear that you are not the only one without a dado blade Jim. According to comments made on other programs, anyone in the UK is without a dado blade because they don't sell them there. That is basically the entire reason for making this show. I hope that it helps you and allows you to use this jig in your shop. I really do enjoy the box joints and the way that this jig makes them consistently perfect. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings from a forum: The reason for dado blades being banned in the UK was initially due to the high number of people chopping serious bits out of fingers and hands and due to the nature of the injury, repairs were not usually very good! The EU Directives do then prohibit. The problem in using a dado blade many people do not make any form of guarding to compensate for removing the top/crown guard. Contrary to what everyone says about 'I'll be carefull' I had the pleasure of investigating dozens or hand injuries on table saws, spindles, radial arm saws, planers ...... and in many - not all - cases guards were not in place or adequate. People do make mistakes - often. Please don't just mock elf n safety as if it is there to stop everyone doing what they want, the vast majority of the rules spring from real experience. In case you are interested I was one of Her Majesties Inspectors of Factories and responsible for enforcing the safety laws. The majority of silly stuff you read/hear about where health and safety is used as the excuse are usually total rubbish. In this case its for a good reason. Regarding the States and allowing dado blades - put the correct sticker on something and you suddenly find the litigation in America can disappear. Sadly, a sticker doesn't put your fingers back on. Use a router or spindle moulder? T
Thanks for the kind words on the show. I definitely have a preference between the two. I prefer the table saw. While both methods give great results, the straight bit in the router table does tend to try and pull the stock to one side while it is being cut. It required a lot more clamping while cutting. The table saw method is constantly pushing the stock against the fence while cutting which requires less clamping and in fact, for the most part, I can cut box joints on the table saw without any clamping at all. Which ever method you choose, the results are always spectacular. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings thanks so much, those are great points. Maybe I'm being sucked in by the perceived ease of setup and consistency of the router bit. But I supposed if I'm always configured to use a 1/4" router bit, I could just as easily set everything up with a 1/4" dado. Do you have a favourite size that you tend to use? Most of my intented work will be small boxes, instead of using Mitres and Splines. 1/4" a fair size?
@@roddiscommunications1349 I mostly use 1/4" and it works great. I actually have a designated finger joint blade that only has two blades instead of the multiple ones of the dado blades. Depending on the configuration of the blades, it either cuts a 1/4" or a 3/8" finger joint. I use 1/4" on most of my projects but on larger ones, I bump it up to the 3/8". I hope this helps.
@@JS-rp7qb it very well might. This is not my preferred method of using the iBox as I prefer the table saw method. But a different bit just might help. Thank you for tuning in Jon and for taking the time to chime in with your suggestion. It is truly appreciated.
Hi Kenny! I went to Incra to look at the feasibility of using with the router and it said it could but had no demo video so I did a YT search and up you popped! What puzzles me is the setting up of the pins. When you started, you moved the pins 1/8" or so away from the cutter. Then, later you set the width of the pins using the test cut which matched the width of the routed cut. But, I did not see how you set the pins the appropriate distance from the cutter head which would seem to me to be, in this case 1/4". Did I miss something? I even went out to the garage to look at my jigs to confirm I was not nuts. (Still debatable.) Bill
The distance from the cutter head to the pins is set automatically by the jig Bill. Your pins are placed together and distanced from the cutter by approximately 1/8". As you separate the pins to the thickness of your test cut (this is to get a nice fitting pin to register your pieces in while cutting) the distance from the cutter head is automatically adjusting at the same time. That setting is automatic and there is no need to adjust it. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks, Kenny! I looked at this one more time, frame by frame almost and could never see the space adjustment. So, if i built a dado stack of say 21/64" it would auto space 21/64" away from the kiss location based upon setting the pins in the initial cut. Remarkable. It would completely kill the issue of perfecting the width of the dado stack. I like the stack to make pins the same thickness as the stock but if I just got the stack close it would look OK. Novel. I spoke to Incra yesterday and had a lengthy discussion and they pointed out that the dado stack is more reliable for box joints than the router and I can see where they are coming from but I have had great success with both methods. The last few years I have used their TS fence system and router components to do box joints with no issues. Bill
@@billinfarmington5189 I find that the stack dado is the way to go here. There are some places (like in the UK) where stacked dado blades are outlawed so the router table is their only option. I find that the router table likes to grab and pull the pieces and you have to make sure to clamp down each and every cut. With the dado blade, I find that clamping isn't really necessary. I do love this jig and the results are incredible. I've always made my own homemade finger joint jigs but they never compared to the INCRA I-box.
@@acutabove_woodworkings I have a few homemade finger joint jigs for the table saw. But, you are saying the same thing that Incra said about using the router for finger joints. Using the TS and their router stuff I make a jig with toggle clamps and have no problem whatever with alignment. The only issue that occurs is with chipout on the back if you don't watch what the backer board is doing. Regards, Bill
I actually prefer the table saw method James. The router method has to be clamped down for each individual cut as the router bit likes to grab and pull your stock. All it takes is on poorly clamped pass to ruin a project as the bit grabs, pulls and gouges your finger joint cuts. The table saw is a much more user friendly way to go. You can still clamp the pieces for each cut and in fact, it is recommended. But you could get away without doing and clamping if you wanted to, making the whole process a lot faster. I hope that helps. Thanks for tuning in sir. I'm hope you enjoyed the show.
kennyearrings1 thanks for the response! I do clamp each pass anyways. I think I’ll stick with the table saw since I just set it up for the saw but it’s good to have options
I've been looking at these for several years, though it's only sold from one outlet in Australia and that isn't anywhere near me 😔. That same outlet had an 8 inch FTG blade with a 6mm Kerf(1/4").
Maybe you could have the outlet ship it to you? As for the blade, there is a box joint blade available here in Canada as well and I have thought about purchasing one several times but it is a pricey blade. They are somewhere in the neighbourhood of $200 and for the amount of box joints that I do, I have a hard time paying that kind of money for it. Hopefully, you will get yourself a blade and a finger joint jig soon. Thanks for tuning in and if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
Thank you for making this video for those of us who have no access to dada blades. I noticed that you use Allen keys in Imperial sizes. Do you happen to know whether Incra makes the jig, and other jigs for that matter, with metric bolts/screws? It is quite difficult to get hold of tools in Imperial units over here in Europe.
I am not aware of whether or not they make the jig with metric hardware but I am sure that a quick email to INCRA will answer that question. Even if they don't, INCRA supplies all the Allen keys you need with the jig so you wouldn't have to purchase them anyway. I hope that this has helped. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave me a comment. I appreciate it.
I still use this jig exclusively when I need to make finger joints. It is still my go-to jig and I can't say enough good things about it. I will say that I prefer to use it on the table saw and I rarely (if ever) use it on the router table. I find I get better and easier results at the table saw. I hope this helps Mike. If you have any other questions, please don't hesitate to ask. Thanks for tuning in.
Hi Kenny A really informative step by step guid on setting up this Incra Ibox Jig. I certainly feel that I could confidently perform a correct setup and calibration. There is an old saying that goes something like “you can have extensive knowledge of a subject but it doesn’t me you will be any good at teaching it” and remembering back to my distant school days, we had some excellent tutors but also some dreadful ones too. In your case you have the gift explaining in a very concise and interesting manner which in my opinion you either have that gift or you don’t no matter how well intentioned. I do however have a little bit of confusion regarding this particular Incra Ibox Jig and that is this: Incra have as you know several jigs in their arsenal and in particular I’m referring to their LS Positioner Super System with the large right angle jig. Having looked into the Positioner I noted that with the right angled jig, joinery operations can be carried out including dovetails and box (finger) joints when fitted to a router table. However I don’t seem to find any information on whether or not the Positioner can perform the same variety of box joints as the Ibox Jig? Can shed any light on this please. Thank you.
Let me start off this replay by saying thank you Steve. I appreciate the kind words on the show and on my "teaching" ability. You are not the first to comment that I have a gift for it and although I don't quite see it that way, it is always flattering to hear. I have to be honest her and state right from the get-go, that I have absolutely no experience with the LS Positioner Super System at all. I did look at it at one point in time but didn't feel that it suited my needs as much as I would have liked it to in a smaller shop. Don't get me wrong, I love INCRA products and I have never been disappointed in any of their products but the LS Positioner Super System just seemed to allow too many places for human error while positioning the fence. For dovetails, I have a Leigh D4R pro jig that I love and for finger joints (as you know) I have the INCRA I-box and although the Super system seems to be a very slick system with precision adjustments and that sort of thing, I honestly don't think that it can compete with the ease of use of the INCRA I-box. The I-box is designed to do one job and do it flawlessly and that is exactly what it does. As soon as you add the capability of other jigs (such as in dovetails) I feel that it may become cumbersome to achieve the joints to the standard that you'd like. I don't doubt that the LS Positioner Super System can perform the task, I just question it's ease a versatility. This whole reply is nothing more than my opinion Steve, as I have never used the LS Positioner Super System but in seeing demonstrations and videos while researching the system myself, I have gained a bit of an opinion on the comparison of the two. I don't think this answer provides you with the positive answer and knowledge that you were hoping for, but I hope that it might help a little. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave your comment. I truly appreciate your support.
kennyearrings1 Hi Kenny Many thanks for taking the time to give a comprehensive reply. I appreciate you are basing your opinion on research rather than time spent using the Positioner. However what you have said does make a lot of sense and to be honest I should have come to the same conclusion myself. What I mean by that is I agree with your comments that the Positioner is like a “jack of all trades but not a master of any”. It is generally the rule that dedicated tools/equipment that only perform one task, usually do it better, more efficiently than a tool that performs several tasks. I will however try and find someone that has experience with both Incra products before I go ahead and purchase the Ibox jig. Cheers Steve
@@multibusa Good luck with you quest for the information Steve. I hope that you find it. I would be interested in what your findings are. Feel free to drop me a line after you have made your decision and found your information. Once again, thanks for tuning in.
kennyearrings1 Hi Kenny Many thanks for your reply, I’ll be more than happy to share any information I can get together. It’s possible other people may have the same question in mind. You can never be armed with too much information unless it’s about your demise:) Cheers Steve
Hi I bought the Ibox for my router tableafter watching your really good vid. I’ve had it a week and I think if I have it another week I will end up being sectioned, it driving me mad. I have followed your vid second by second and have followed all your instructions to the letter, I can’t get it to cut fitting joints. So question I have worked on the left right adjustments to try to get them to fit, how much righty right or lefty left do you need? I’ve tried tiny amounts and slightly larger amounts nothing seems to mesh. Also I’m getting really bad tear out is there only certain woods that work on this unit? Thanks for your vid by the way it was very good the manual that came with the ibox is a bit scetchy.
First off Tony, I want to thank you for your kind words on the show. There are plenty of things that can cause the problems that you are speaking of but we need to figure out some more information about the joints you are making. First off....how are the joints not fitting? Are all the fingers out of alignment or is it just the odd finger that is out of whack. If it is just the odd finger, then your problem may not be in the setup or the jig itself, but rather the stock slightly shifting during routing. I would suggest clamping the stock to the fence for each and every pass, to ensure that it has absolutely zero chance of moving. Any movement at all will change the way the joints fit. Once we have that question answered, we can move on to the next step in trouble shooting. As for the tear out, hard woods are preferred for the jig but if you want to use a softer wood, just be sure to use scrap wood behind your stock to help eliminate the tear out. Also, be sure that your router bit is clean and sharp. A dull bit will tear out drastically. Paying attention to the suggested RPM of the bit will also help with tear out. Let's get this worked out because this jig is spectacular and I'd hate to see you give up on it. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thanks for getting back Ken it’s good to hear from you. Right, firstly I can get the fingers to mesh but they are either really tight to the point they won’t interlock or loose with the gap in the fingers getting bigger the further down the joint you go, I wish I could send you a picture. When I say bigger it is only a matter of a millimetre or two. I have loosened, tightened and still I can’t get them to fit. I clamp everything as tight as I can, I know the router bit will pull the stock of to one side. I will give the sacrificial piece of packing a go to try and cure the tear out, I have used new router bits that should be sharp but still it rips, though I have to say I have routed some woods that don’t tear. As for getting rid of the unit, not at those prices it needs to pay for itself. Thanks for your time and your help Ken it is appreciated I’m sure between us you can find an answer!,.
Tony, if you head over to the channel's facebook page facebook.com/kennyearrings1/ you can send me a PM complete with photos so that we can figure out the adjustments needed to get your joints fitting correctly. Barring that, you can feel free to send me an email at acutabove_woodworking@hotmail.com and we will figure out the problems and get the adjustment right to get you on your way. Troubleshooting over distance is a difficult thing, but we will get through it. Send me some pictures Tony.
Kenny I hope you can help. I cant get my two metal bars to come together. I set the hex screw to the etched notch but no matter which direction I turn the red knob I cant get the two metal plates together. Do you kno if there is any procedure to reset this mechanism? Thanks Mike
Mike, it sounds to me (and don't take any offence to this) that the plates are locked into position. Have you loosened the top locking knob at the top of the fence before trying to get your plates to come together? This will be the first thing that I would check. If this is not the case, let me know and I will work with you to see if there is something that can be done.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks for the reply Kenny, I have literally just worked it out. It ended up being that the red knob was simply locked in place as you mention. I carefully used some vice grips to loosen it and now its free and working properly. I had been checking with the top black knob loose. It had been sitting in my workshop for a while so I will need to make sure I keep it cleaner after use. Appreciate the reply. Cheers
No. A dovetail bit will not work with finger joints. They are two completely different methods of joinery. In order to produce a dovetail joint with a router, you require two different bits. A dovetail and a straight bit. The INCRA iBox does not have any configuration to accommodate joinery with a dovetail bit and the jig is strictly designed to make box (or finger) joints. I hope this helps.
I have watched a number of demos of the Ibox jig and you are the first person to explain the use of the silver knob to adjust the fit of the pins. The factory set up video does not explain it's use to adjust the fit of the pins. I bought one a while back and just got around to using it. My first try was abysmal. The marks on the side of the red wheel are in .001" increments. Hint ... measure the pins and sockets of the test piece. The pins should be .003" to .005" thinner than the sockets (kerf).
Well I hope (since watching my show) you have been able to achieve better results than "abysmal". Hopefully, you are able to get fantastic results now that you have the whole picture instead of only half of the picture that you were provide with from other videos. Thanks for tuning in Richard and good luck with your jig.
Just wrecked my dado stack and a sawstop brake! Not sure what it contacted everything was clear when pushed and checked clearance with the saw off. User error again I guess. So too pizzed to do any more today not sure when I can replace those parts. So next time I'll give tge router and ibox ago.
Oh no Paul!!! This is horrible news. The blade must have come in contact with something in order to trip. If I were a betting man, I would say that the stock supports were adjusted too close to the blades. I would assume that your shorts didn't fair too well either. Sorry to hear about your mishap.
@@acutabove_woodworkings i checked before starting the saw, but i am disappointed with my sawstop jobsite. Too much flex in the plastic top, i bought it for its ability to fold away. Wish i had gone with the option of putting a cast iron saw on casters.
The video was clear but I don’t know how this jig can be advertised as simple. This device seems to have a steep learning curve. I guess I’m just slow.
On the contrary Steve. This jig has no learning curve and you sir, are definitely not slow. After all, you had enough sense to watch my program right? LOL. In the explanation of this video, I demonstrate EVERYTHING, including the initial calibration (setting the home position) and kissing the cutter and all of that stuff. This is a one time thing for the machine that you are using it on and you only need to do this once. The instructions provided are very clear and descriptive so you won't have a problem. The only learning curve involved is used in routing (or using a dado blade in the table saw, which is my preferred method) is doing the test cuts for fit by adjusting the fingers and even then, there isn't much of a curve. It takes a few simple adjustments that are quick to master. After you get your fit the way you like it, you just rout or cut your pieces. Done. Nothing special, nothing complicated, nothing to learn. If you don't use the jig for a while, it might take a quick refresher of the manual to get you back up to speed. I have a "cheat sheet" that I tuck away with the jig and it takes all of 3 minutes to read my cheat sheet and be back up to speed, cutting finger joints like I knew what I was doing. LOL. I hope this helps and if not, you can always feel free to ask any and all questions that you might have. I would be more than happy to help if I can. Thank you for tuning in to the show. I very much appreciate the support.
Very nice of you to provide such a considerate reply. I’ve been trying to research the various dovetail jigs available and as usual it’s a bit confusing. It one of those situations where you can’t really understand the devices unless you actually use them. Thanks for your support.
@@stevel8980 The I-box is not for dovetails, but rather it is for finger joints. It does not have the capability to do dovetails. For that, I use a Leigh D4R Pro Dovetail jig and the results are spectacular. A slight learning curve with the Leigh jig but the results are spectacular. I do have a tutorial on the show for the basics of the jig. You can find it here ua-cam.com/video/HPYw1vhmHDg/v-deo.html. I hope this helps. Thanks again for tuning in.
One of the best router table Incra Box Jig tutorials out there. I will be following along while I setup my projects to make sure all goes well. Thanks for the great video.
You're very welcome Tim. You just have to remember that you need to clamp down your piece for each pass. Otherwise, the bit will grab and mess up your piece. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave the kind words. Good luck on your project.
This is an excellent step by step demonstration. Well done, thank you!
You're very welcome Anthony. I'm glad that you liked it. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
That was a brilliant demo. Are you a paid teacher? You're very concise & it all just flows without any humming & harring. Well done & thank you very much.
I am not a teacher at all, unless you consider what I do here on my channel as teaching. In fact, I am an electrician during the day. I just love what I do on the channel and in the shop. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave the kind words. It's very much appreciated.
Hey Kenny. I got one of these for Chrismas several years ago and never used it. After watching your video last week I decided to use it. I was asked to build a cabinet to keep the keys to the hotel rooms and two cabins at Ritter Springs, here in Oregon, in recently. So I decided to use that jig to make the box joints for the cabinet. After watching your video it was pretty easy to use and the little cabinet came out really nice and they were really happy with it. So thanks again for your video and taking the time to really get into things and explain them like most don't do. Appreciate your help very much.
Respectfully
Jim
I'm glad to hear that the show was useful to you Jim and that you were able to get your jig to work because of it. I just finished replying to another viewer who complained that I do too much explaining and that I talk too much. I basically said that there are plenty of people who aren't fond of my show style but there are enough people that it helps, that it makes it worth it to me. It's comments like yours that confirm that I'm doing things the right way. Thanks for tuning in and for the kind words. It's truly appreciated.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Well Kenny here's the deal as I see it. I'm 75 years old. Now that does not mean that I am getting too old or anything like that. I can do things guy's half my age can't do. The point is that in my life I have read hundreds of books on woodworking, reloading, welding you name it. I can't remember one 1/100th of what I read out of those books. But I can remember seeing something done and have always, my entire life been able to grasp a concept by watching it being done as opposed to reading about it. So for my money, what you do in your video's in invaluable to me. If people think you talk too much or get too detailed in explaining things, that's their problem and they can always go to a different channel and watch something else. That being said I do know for a fact that there are a lot of people that go onto UA-cam and complain about anything and everything even if they do like what they saw. So keep up the good video's Kenny. I really appreciate what you do and really like your detailed explanations. So for the rest of us that like what you do, keep it up. And you other guy's, well, your free to go somewhere else anytime you like.
JIm
@@jimscott64 I couldn't agree with you more. Some people, like myself, are visual learners. This show was created in the first place as a way to help people and teach them something. It's pretty hard to teach something in a 10 minute video, where nothing is explained, every clip is in 10X fast forward, and there are no dimensions given. I'm glad that there are still people out there who understand the quality of taking your time. Thanks again for the kind words Jim.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Your welcome Kenny. Keep them there video's coming buddy.
Nicely done, I have had my IBox jig for a couple of years and a awesome addition to the shop. Awesome tutorial.
Thanks for the kind words Thom. I love this jig. I've only had mine for a short while but I am always pleased with the results and the fact that they are consistent and repeatable is a great thing. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave me a comment.
kennyearrings1 Thank You I now see how I can use it on the router table.
You're very welcome @@Thom4123 . Thanks for tuning in.
Great videos man I appreciate you taking the time to be clear and concise , and assuming your audience knows very little about the topic (Me)
Glad to hear that you are finding the show useful Steve. I hope that there will be other episodes of the show that you enjoy. Thanks for tuning in and taking the time to leave a comment. I truly appreciate it.
Tomorrow I'll receive an Incra ibox. My intention was to set it up for use at the table saw but after your router table demonstration I think the router table would be a better idea. The table saw gets used so frequently whereas the router table is once a week or so. Thanks for the video.
Glad that you liked the show Penny. I will point out that using the router table works perfectly but you do have to clamp your stock in place for every pass as the router bit does want to grab it and put it to one side or another. As long as you clamp it in place, you should have absolutely no issues at all. Good luck on your finger joints and thanks for tuning in to the show.
Hi Kenny - its a BIG THANK YOU from me to you! I’ve just discovered this video and watched it and great, you have solved a problem. My wife bought me the ibox jig as a birthday present over 12 months ago and it has been sat, unused, in my workshop ever since. Oh, course she wants to know why I haven’t used it. Here’s why - The Incra literature and DVD that comes with the jig appears to focus on using it with a dado stack blade. I’m in the UK and my European table saw will not take a dado blade. So the only option is to use it on my router table, however, I found the Incra information regarding the router table set-up rather ambiguous and I was concerned not to damage this expensive piece of kit. So its been collecting dust, until now. Your video is great as it provides the step by step set-up information that gives me the confidence to set up and use the jig - BRILLIANT! So tomorrow I will view your video again (perhaps again and again) and get this very useful present earning its keep and perhaps make my wife a well deserved oak jewellery box. Again thanks for a very precise and helpful video. Perhaps in future you might help me further and consider demonstating a couple of projects using the jig on the router table? All the best from the UK.
You're very welcome Mike. I'm glad that the video has helped you. One thing I would suggest, is that when routing each cut, I would clamp the piece that you are working on to the fence. The router bit LOVES to grab that wood and pull it in one direction. Also, remember that by using a scrap backer board when routing with the jig, the cuts on the back side of the stock are much cleaner with little tear out. Good luck with your project and thanks for tuning in. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks for replying Kenny and for the advice. Have you any specific recommendations regarding router bits to use with the jig?
@@mikevyvyan7060 I have had good results with a double flute 1/4" straight bit. www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=42886&cat=1,46168,69435,46171
I prefer the 1/2" shank though as apposed to the 1/4" shank. I find it has less chatter. I hope this helps.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thank you very much this is very helpful. I am now going to set-up and hopefully use the inbox jig.
@@mikevyvyan7060 How did you make out? Did everything go okay?
Well, this video just made up my mind for me. I'll be sticking with my Leigh jig. For all the time I'm going to be making all the adjustments and micro adjustments, I can have my drawer finished on my Leigh.
I also have the Leigh jig and it is an exceptional piece of equipment. I personally enjoy both jigs but it is obviously up to the user which one they prefer. I'm glad that the video was able to help you make a decision. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave your comment. It's appreciated.
Very helpful tutorial! Much appreciated!!!
Glad that you liked it. Good luck with your setup and thanks for tuning in to the show
Ken, thanks for doing this video. Ever since you first got the jig I hoped that you would do a video of using it on the router table. Well, you came through and I am as impressed with how it works on the router table as I was as to how well it works on the table saw. Looks like all the adjustments are getting a little more natural for you. I guess once the baseline adjustments are made the fine tuning wouldn’t be that bad. Thumbs up from me this week.
Thanks for the kind words on the show and the demonstration Paul. This jig, like any jig, gets easier to use the more you use it the more you familiarize yourself with it. It's just the natural progression of working with tools. The more you use it, the better you get. Thanks for tuning in this week. Glad to hear that you enjoyed the show.
If the clamp helps so much, maybe consider adding a toggle clamp to the top of the guard (the part with the acrylic window)? That way you can quickly clamp back against the backer board as easily as flipping a switch. Thanks for the videos showing how it works though. Helps me decide whether or not I want to buy one.
This is an excellent suggestion Adam. Thanks for chiming in with it. Any time that we can free up our hand, hold down our stock and keep our finger 100% clear of the cutters, it's a good thing and your suggestion is right on the money with all three of those things. Thanks for the kind words on the show. I truly appreciate it and I appreciate you tuning in to the program.
@@acutabove_woodworkings how much abuse can that blade guard take? I would hesitate to mount any kind of clamp to the plastic guard.
@@jimmiller8389 I don't think Adam meant to actually attach it directly to the plexiglass shield. I think he meant to attach it in that general area. You are right though, I wouldn't attach it directly to the shield. Not nearly strong enough. Thanks for chiming in Jim and for tuning in to the show.
What a great video very well explained and easy to understand you also mentioned here in England they don’t do a table saw that takes a dado blade well axminster do a table saw that you can put a dado blade on and about time to I’ve just had one delivered whoop whoop 👍👍👍
That's fantastic Martin. Congratulations on the new toy. I hope it serves you well. Thanks for tuning in and taking the time to leave the kind words on the show. It's very much appreciated.
I decided to use my new JessEm Mast-R-Lift II and make Incra I Box joints. I used my 1/4" straight bits but noticed a little tear out so I ordered a Whiteside Router Bits RU2100 Standard Spiral Bit with Up Cut. It made a very very smooth cut and I will never use a straight cut bit again. It was keeping the Incra from allowing the bit from moving through the box cut as it was causing it from tearing out so after I got the spiral bit it worked perfectly no many how many times I ran the bit through the cut.
Up-cut spirals are a great choice for this application Tom. I have a couple of them and I have to agree with you. They are fantastic. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for chiming in with your methods and bit suggestion. I love it.
Thanks, looking to purchase and this will help to make that decision. Good Job!
Glad that you found it useful Marlin. I still use this jig to this day and still love it. My preferred method is to use it on the table saw but the router table works well too. Just remember, that when using it on the router table, clamping your pieces in place before routing is a step that can not be skipped. The pieces have to be clamped in place. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave a comment.
Thank you Kenny for a great video on using the I box on the router table and table saw. You made it easy to understand. Thanks again, Bob
You're very welcome Bob. I'm glad that you found the show useful. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment. I truly appreciate it.
Very well explained video Ken, if i ever buy one i know where to come if i get stuck.
Excellent Tutorial.
Barry (ENG)
Thanks Barry. I appreciate the kind words. Knowing how to do something is easy....trying to explain it on video so that others can understand it, is difficult. Glad to know that people are understanding and liking the program. Thanks for chiming in with your compliment and for tuning in to the show this week. You know I appreciate it.
Ken, Great video. There isn't much information on using the IBox with a router table. I just got my IBox and used it today to test. What a disaster, as I used plywood for my test. I watched your video and see that you do not recommend using plywood on the router/iBox. What bits do you recommend for the router/ibox configuration? Do you use the spiral-up cut or the down cut? Look forward to following you on your just announced webpage.
I normally use a double fluted straight bit John but I have also used spiral up-cut bits with great results as well. The key to using the router table is clamping. That spinning bit loves to grab the work and pull it to one side or the other so it is important to clamp with every pass. I would definitely not recommend plywood for the router table setup. There is just too much tear-out at the back end of the piece. Glad that you found the show to be useful. Thanks for tuning in and I hope you enjoy the website.
Well done, What is the brand of the Router Table you used? I like the height adjustment feature.
Now you are asking something. That router table is no longer used in my shop and I actually ended up giving it away when I bought my Jessem router table. The one I used in this video was a Freud router table but I added an after market router lift to it that worked with a plunge router. It was kind of a Frankenstein's monster of a setup but it worked really, really well. I can't even provide you with a brand for the router lift mechanism because I bought it at a woodworking trade show over 20 years ago. Sorry I can't help more on this one. Thanks for tuning in.
Very good instructional video on the setup and use of this jig.. I'm going to purchase this Incra jig soon. My question is your constantly going to have to change the backer board out just like in a dovetail jig I would assume? Thanks for another good video
I have made many projects and never changed out the backboard. I just shift it a little for each project. After the first cut, the backboard acts like a zero clearance insert and minimizes the tear out. Eventually, you will have to replace it but I can't see it happening for quite a while yet. If you are going to use it on a router table, be sure to clamp your pieces well in the jig to prevent them from shifting. Glad that you enjoyed the show. Thanks for tuning in and good luck with your new jig.
Kenny, do you get better results from table saw or router? I like the idea on using router table as I have a saw stop and worried that using the kiss method it just might activate the brake. Thanks
This will actually be a two part answer here Tom. The results on the table saw, versus the router table are the same. The jig automatically adjusts to any variations between the two and the results are flawless with either method. The thing that I am not a fan of when it comes to the router table is the fact that the router bit likes to grab and shift your stock with every pass. This means that you have to clamp your stock down well to avoid having it shift. It can become tedious. With the table saw, the blade is cutting at right angles to the piece so clamping isn't as important and I find there is less chance of error. As for your SawStop, you have nothing to worry about. I too use the jig on a SawStop and the "kiss calibration" is just for the initial set up. In fact, the SawStop can help you with the "kiss". Just rotate the knob until the fingers actually touch your blade and the red light starts flashing on your saw's control panel. Then back the fingers off just a tiny bit until the red light stops flashing. The "kiss calibration" is now done. As you adjust your jig to set the fingers for your first project, you will see that as the setup continues, the jig automatically moves the finger further and further away from the blade. As long as you have done things correctly, by the time you are ready to make a cut, they are nowhere near the blade and cannot set off the safety feature of the SawStop. A quick pass of the jig in a "dry run" past the blade with the machine shut off will prove this and ease your mind. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to ask your question. It is very much appreciated.
@@acutabove_woodworkings thanks great info!
@@denchwoodwerks You're very welcome
Great idea! I don't have a dado blade because my saw is truly crappy and I need a better one soon. However, I do have a tolerable router table and this will work with it, I think. Thanks, as always for your informative videos.
It would appear that you are not the only one without a dado blade Jim. According to comments made on other programs, anyone in the UK is without a dado blade because they don't sell them there. That is basically the entire reason for making this show. I hope that it helps you and allows you to use this jig in your shop. I really do enjoy the box joints and the way that this jig makes them consistently perfect. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings I saw they were not legal in the UK and I still can't figure out why. A real head scratcher.
@@Aardrijk1 Makes me wonder exactly what happened for them to not be allowed. I might have to do some research.
@@acutabove_woodworkings from a forum:
The reason for dado blades being banned in the UK was initially due to the high number of people chopping serious bits out of fingers and hands and due to the nature of the injury, repairs were not usually very good! The EU Directives do then prohibit. The problem in using a dado blade many people do not make any form of guarding to compensate for removing the top/crown guard. Contrary to what everyone says about 'I'll be carefull' I had the pleasure of investigating dozens or hand injuries on table saws, spindles, radial arm saws, planers ...... and in many - not all - cases guards were not in place or adequate. People do make mistakes - often.
Please don't just mock elf n safety as if it is there to stop everyone doing what they want, the vast majority of the rules spring from real experience. In case you are interested I was one of Her Majesties Inspectors of Factories and responsible for enforcing the safety laws. The majority of silly stuff you read/hear about where health and safety is used as the excuse are usually total rubbish. In this case its for a good reason.
Regarding the States and allowing dado blades - put the correct sticker on something and you suddenly find the litigation in America can disappear. Sadly, a sticker doesn't put your fingers back on. Use a router or spindle moulder?
T
@@Aardrijk1 I figured it was something like that. Thanks Jim.
Great video. Thanks! Love the consistency of the router bit. Do you have a preference between the table saw and router table?
Thanks for the kind words on the show. I definitely have a preference between the two. I prefer the table saw. While both methods give great results, the straight bit in the router table does tend to try and pull the stock to one side while it is being cut. It required a lot more clamping while cutting. The table saw method is constantly pushing the stock against the fence while cutting which requires less clamping and in fact, for the most part, I can cut box joints on the table saw without any clamping at all. Which ever method you choose, the results are always spectacular. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings thanks so much, those are great points. Maybe I'm being sucked in by the perceived ease of setup and consistency of the router bit. But I supposed if I'm always configured to use a 1/4" router bit, I could just as easily set everything up with a 1/4" dado. Do you have a favourite size that you tend to use? Most of my intented work will be small boxes, instead of using Mitres and Splines. 1/4" a fair size?
@@roddiscommunications1349 I mostly use 1/4" and it works great. I actually have a designated finger joint blade that only has two blades instead of the multiple ones of the dado blades. Depending on the configuration of the blades, it either cuts a 1/4" or a 3/8" finger joint. I use 1/4" on most of my projects but on larger ones, I bump it up to the 3/8". I hope this helps.
Wonder if a different bit might help with movement and tear out on softwoods
@@JS-rp7qb it very well might. This is not my preferred method of using the iBox as I prefer the table saw method. But a different bit just might help. Thank you for tuning in Jon and for taking the time to chime in with your suggestion. It is truly appreciated.
Hi Kenny! I went to Incra to look at the feasibility of using with the router and it said it could but had no demo video so I did a YT search and up you popped! What puzzles me is the setting up of the pins. When you started, you moved the pins 1/8" or so away from the cutter. Then, later you set the width of the pins using the test cut which matched the width of the routed cut. But, I did not see how you set the pins the appropriate distance from the cutter head which would seem to me to be, in this case 1/4". Did I miss something? I even went out to the garage to look at my jigs to confirm I was not nuts. (Still debatable.) Bill
The distance from the cutter head to the pins is set automatically by the jig Bill. Your pins are placed together and distanced from the cutter by approximately 1/8". As you separate the pins to the thickness of your test cut (this is to get a nice fitting pin to register your pieces in while cutting) the distance from the cutter head is automatically adjusting at the same time. That setting is automatic and there is no need to adjust it. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks, Kenny! I looked at this one more time, frame by frame almost and could never see the space adjustment. So, if i built a dado stack of say 21/64" it would auto space 21/64" away from the kiss location based upon setting the pins in the initial cut. Remarkable. It would completely kill the issue of perfecting the width of the dado stack. I like the stack to make pins the same thickness as the stock but if I just got the stack close it would look OK. Novel. I spoke to Incra yesterday and had a lengthy discussion and they pointed out that the dado stack is more reliable for box joints than the router and I can see where they are coming from but I have had great success with both methods. The last few years I have used their TS fence system and router components to do box joints with no issues. Bill
@@billinfarmington5189 I find that the stack dado is the way to go here. There are some places (like in the UK) where stacked dado blades are outlawed so the router table is their only option. I find that the router table likes to grab and pull the pieces and you have to make sure to clamp down each and every cut. With the dado blade, I find that clamping isn't really necessary. I do love this jig and the results are incredible. I've always made my own homemade finger joint jigs but they never compared to the INCRA I-box.
@@acutabove_woodworkings I have a few homemade finger joint jigs for the table saw. But, you are saying the same thing that Incra said about using the router for finger joints. Using the TS and their router stuff I make a jig with toggle clamps and have no problem whatever with alignment. The only issue that occurs is with chipout on the back if you don't watch what the backer board is doing. Regards, Bill
Looks great on the router table too. Do you have a preference using it on the router table vs. the table saw?
I actually prefer the table saw method James. The router method has to be clamped down for each individual cut as the router bit likes to grab and pull your stock. All it takes is on poorly clamped pass to ruin a project as the bit grabs, pulls and gouges your finger joint cuts. The table saw is a much more user friendly way to go. You can still clamp the pieces for each cut and in fact, it is recommended. But you could get away without doing and clamping if you wanted to, making the whole process a lot faster. I hope that helps. Thanks for tuning in sir. I'm hope you enjoyed the show.
kennyearrings1 thanks for the response! I do clamp each pass anyways. I think I’ll stick with the table saw since I just set it up for the saw but it’s good to have options
I've been looking at these for several years, though it's only sold from one outlet in Australia and that isn't anywhere near me 😔. That same outlet had an 8 inch FTG blade with a 6mm Kerf(1/4").
Maybe you could have the outlet ship it to you? As for the blade, there is a box joint blade available here in Canada as well and I have thought about purchasing one several times but it is a pricey blade. They are somewhere in the neighbourhood of $200 and for the amount of box joints that I do, I have a hard time paying that kind of money for it. Hopefully, you will get yourself a blade and a finger joint jig soon. Thanks for tuning in and if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
Thank you for making this video for those of us who have no access to dada blades. I noticed that you use Allen keys in Imperial sizes. Do you happen to know whether Incra makes the jig, and other jigs for that matter, with metric bolts/screws? It is quite difficult to get hold of tools in Imperial units over here in Europe.
I am not aware of whether or not they make the jig with metric hardware but I am sure that a quick email to INCRA will answer that question. Even if they don't, INCRA supplies all the Allen keys you need with the jig so you wouldn't have to purchase them anyway. I hope that this has helped. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave me a comment. I appreciate it.
Kenny, Do you still use this jig? I am looking at this one and one from Rockler. Thanks pal
I still use this jig exclusively when I need to make finger joints. It is still my go-to jig and I can't say enough good things about it. I will say that I prefer to use it on the table saw and I rarely (if ever) use it on the router table. I find I get better and easier results at the table saw. I hope this helps Mike. If you have any other questions, please don't hesitate to ask. Thanks for tuning in.
Hi Kenny
A really informative step by step guid on setting up this Incra Ibox Jig. I certainly feel that I could confidently perform a correct setup and calibration.
There is an old saying that goes something like “you can have extensive knowledge of a subject but it doesn’t me you will be any good at teaching it” and remembering back to my distant school days, we had some excellent tutors but also some dreadful ones too. In your case you have the gift explaining in a very concise and interesting manner which in my opinion you either have that gift or you don’t no matter how well intentioned.
I do however have a little bit of confusion regarding this particular Incra Ibox Jig and that is this: Incra have as you know several jigs in their arsenal and in particular I’m referring to their LS Positioner Super System with the large right angle jig. Having looked into the Positioner I noted that with the right angled jig, joinery operations can be carried out including dovetails and box (finger) joints when fitted to a router table. However I don’t seem to find any information on whether or not the Positioner can perform the same variety of box joints as the Ibox Jig? Can shed any light on this please. Thank you.
Let me start off this replay by saying thank you Steve. I appreciate the kind words on the show and on my "teaching" ability. You are not the first to comment that I have a gift for it and although I don't quite see it that way, it is always flattering to hear. I have to be honest her and state right from the get-go, that I have absolutely no experience with the LS Positioner Super System at all. I did look at it at one point in time but didn't feel that it suited my needs as much as I would have liked it to in a smaller shop. Don't get me wrong, I love INCRA products and I have never been disappointed in any of their products but the LS Positioner Super System just seemed to allow too many places for human error while positioning the fence. For dovetails, I have a Leigh D4R pro jig that I love and for finger joints (as you know) I have the INCRA I-box and although the Super system seems to be a very slick system with precision adjustments and that sort of thing, I honestly don't think that it can compete with the ease of use of the INCRA I-box. The I-box is designed to do one job and do it flawlessly and that is exactly what it does. As soon as you add the capability of other jigs (such as in dovetails) I feel that it may become cumbersome to achieve the joints to the standard that you'd like. I don't doubt that the LS Positioner Super System can perform the task, I just question it's ease a versatility. This whole reply is nothing more than my opinion Steve, as I have never used the LS Positioner Super System but in seeing demonstrations and videos while researching the system myself, I have gained a bit of an opinion on the comparison of the two.
I don't think this answer provides you with the positive answer and knowledge that you were hoping for, but I hope that it might help a little. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave your comment. I truly appreciate your support.
kennyearrings1
Hi Kenny
Many thanks for taking the time to give a comprehensive reply. I appreciate you are basing your opinion on research rather than time spent using the Positioner. However what you have said does make a lot of sense and to be honest I should have come to the same conclusion myself. What I mean by that is I agree with your comments that the Positioner is like a “jack of all trades but not a master of any”. It is generally the rule that dedicated tools/equipment that only perform one task, usually do it better, more efficiently than a tool that performs several tasks.
I will however try and find someone that has experience with both Incra products before I go ahead and purchase the Ibox jig.
Cheers
Steve
@@multibusa Good luck with you quest for the information Steve. I hope that you find it. I would be interested in what your findings are. Feel free to drop me a line after you have made your decision and found your information. Once again, thanks for tuning in.
kennyearrings1
Hi Kenny
Many thanks for your reply, I’ll be more than happy to share any information I can get together. It’s possible other people may have the same question in mind. You can never be armed with too much information unless it’s about your demise:)
Cheers
Steve
Hi I bought the Ibox for my router tableafter watching your really good vid. I’ve had it a week and I think if I have it another week I will end up being sectioned, it driving me mad. I have followed your vid second by second and have followed all your instructions to the letter, I can’t get it to cut fitting joints. So question I have worked on the left right adjustments to try to get them to fit, how much righty right or lefty left do you need? I’ve tried tiny amounts and slightly larger amounts nothing seems to mesh. Also I’m getting really bad tear out is there only certain woods that work on this unit? Thanks for your vid by the way it was very good the manual that came with the ibox is a bit scetchy.
First off Tony, I want to thank you for your kind words on the show. There are plenty of things that can cause the problems that you are speaking of but we need to figure out some more information about the joints you are making. First off....how are the joints not fitting? Are all the fingers out of alignment or is it just the odd finger that is out of whack. If it is just the odd finger, then your problem may not be in the setup or the jig itself, but rather the stock slightly shifting during routing. I would suggest clamping the stock to the fence for each and every pass, to ensure that it has absolutely zero chance of moving. Any movement at all will change the way the joints fit. Once we have that question answered, we can move on to the next step in trouble shooting. As for the tear out, hard woods are preferred for the jig but if you want to use a softer wood, just be sure to use scrap wood behind your stock to help eliminate the tear out. Also, be sure that your router bit is clean and sharp. A dull bit will tear out drastically. Paying attention to the suggested RPM of the bit will also help with tear out. Let's get this worked out because this jig is spectacular and I'd hate to see you give up on it. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thanks for getting back Ken it’s good to hear from you. Right, firstly I can get the fingers to mesh but they are either really tight to the point they won’t interlock or loose with the gap in the fingers getting bigger the further down the joint you go, I wish I could send you a picture. When I say bigger it is only a matter of a millimetre or two. I have loosened, tightened and still I can’t get them to fit. I clamp everything as tight as I can, I know the router bit will pull the stock of to one side. I will give the sacrificial piece of packing a go to try and cure the tear out, I have used new router bits that should be sharp but still it rips, though I have to say I have routed some woods that don’t tear. As for getting rid of the unit, not at those prices it needs to pay for itself. Thanks for your time and your help Ken it is appreciated I’m sure between us you can find an answer!,.
Tony, if you head over to the channel's facebook page facebook.com/kennyearrings1/ you can send me a PM complete with photos so that we can figure out the adjustments needed to get your joints fitting correctly. Barring that, you can feel free to send me an email at acutabove_woodworking@hotmail.com and we will figure out the problems and get the adjustment right to get you on your way. Troubleshooting over distance is a difficult thing, but we will get through it. Send me some pictures Tony.
Kenny I hope you can help. I cant get my two metal bars to come together. I set the hex screw to the etched notch but no matter which direction I turn the red knob I cant get the two metal plates together. Do you kno if there is any procedure to reset this mechanism? Thanks Mike
Mike, it sounds to me (and don't take any offence to this) that the plates are locked into position. Have you loosened the top locking knob at the top of the fence before trying to get your plates to come together? This will be the first thing that I would check. If this is not the case, let me know and I will work with you to see if there is something that can be done.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks for the reply Kenny, I have literally just worked it out. It ended up being that the red knob was simply locked in place as you mention. I carefully used some vice grips to loosen it and now its free and working properly. I had been checking with the top black knob loose. It had been sitting in my workshop for a while so I will need to make sure I keep it cleaner after use. Appreciate the reply. Cheers
Glad to hear that you got it sorted out Mike. I love this jig and I hope you do too. Once again, I appreciate you tuning in to the program.
can you use a dovetail bit
No. A dovetail bit will not work with finger joints. They are two completely different methods of joinery. In order to produce a dovetail joint with a router, you require two different bits. A dovetail and a straight bit. The INCRA iBox does not have any configuration to accommodate joinery with a dovetail bit and the jig is strictly designed to make box (or finger) joints. I hope this helps.
I have watched a number of demos of the Ibox jig and you are the first person to explain the use of the silver knob to adjust the fit of the pins. The factory set up video does not explain it's use to adjust the fit of the pins. I bought one a while back and just got around to using it. My first try was abysmal. The marks on the side of the red wheel are in .001" increments. Hint ... measure the pins and sockets of the test piece. The pins should be .003" to .005" thinner than the sockets (kerf).
Well I hope (since watching my show) you have been able to achieve better results than "abysmal". Hopefully, you are able to get fantastic results now that you have the whole picture instead of only half of the picture that you were provide with from other videos. Thanks for tuning in Richard and good luck with your jig.
Just wrecked my dado stack and a sawstop brake! Not sure what it contacted everything was clear when pushed and checked clearance with the saw off. User error again I guess. So too pizzed to do any more today not sure when I can replace those parts. So next time I'll give tge router and ibox ago.
Oh no Paul!!! This is horrible news. The blade must have come in contact with something in order to trip. If I were a betting man, I would say that the stock supports were adjusted too close to the blades. I would assume that your shorts didn't fair too well either. Sorry to hear about your mishap.
@@acutabove_woodworkings i checked before starting the saw, but i am disappointed with my sawstop jobsite. Too much flex in the plastic top, i bought it for its ability to fold away. Wish i had gone with the option of putting a cast iron saw on casters.
@@blackadder1966 I've never been a big fan of job site saws for the exact same reason.
The video was clear but I don’t know how this jig can be advertised as simple. This device seems to have a steep learning curve. I guess I’m just slow.
On the contrary Steve. This jig has no learning curve and you sir, are definitely not slow. After all, you had enough sense to watch my program right? LOL. In the explanation of this video, I demonstrate EVERYTHING, including the initial calibration (setting the home position) and kissing the cutter and all of that stuff. This is a one time thing for the machine that you are using it on and you only need to do this once. The instructions provided are very clear and descriptive so you won't have a problem. The only learning curve involved is used in routing (or using a dado blade in the table saw, which is my preferred method) is doing the test cuts for fit by adjusting the fingers and even then, there isn't much of a curve. It takes a few simple adjustments that are quick to master. After you get your fit the way you like it, you just rout or cut your pieces. Done. Nothing special, nothing complicated, nothing to learn. If you don't use the jig for a while, it might take a quick refresher of the manual to get you back up to speed. I have a "cheat sheet" that I tuck away with the jig and it takes all of 3 minutes to read my cheat sheet and be back up to speed, cutting finger joints like I knew what I was doing. LOL. I hope this helps and if not, you can always feel free to ask any and all questions that you might have. I would be more than happy to help if I can. Thank you for tuning in to the show. I very much appreciate the support.
Very nice of you to provide such a considerate reply. I’ve been trying to research the various dovetail jigs available and as usual it’s a bit confusing. It one of those situations where you can’t really understand the devices unless you actually use them. Thanks for your support.
@@stevel8980 The I-box is not for dovetails, but rather it is for finger joints. It does not have the capability to do dovetails. For that, I use a Leigh D4R Pro Dovetail jig and the results are spectacular. A slight learning curve with the Leigh jig but the results are spectacular. I do have a tutorial on the show for the basics of the jig. You can find it here ua-cam.com/video/HPYw1vhmHDg/v-deo.html. I hope this helps. Thanks again for tuning in.