I’ve done this job on E46 and E36 on Jackstands. Best tips: buy a small transmission scissor jack. Best $100 I ever spent. Use the Sachs grease for the input shaft and Liqui Moly for all the rest. Use only OEM Pilot bearing. Sachs and Luk throwout bearings are fine. Easiest way to reach top bolts is to lower subframe 1” while supporting engine from above. Great success every time.
Great how- to Video! Your video is the BEST video on UA-cam for step- by -step BMW E36 Transmission Installation for DIY's. Clear instructions with detail explanation! Excellent video!
Hey I know brass pivot pins are super popular but they are actually the worst option. You either wanna do the original plastic or stainless steel which will last longer. Idk why but the brass just wears away super fast
Dude when you were done, how did the pedal feel? Just put in a new clutch kit and flywheel everything when on easy, and clutch engages, yet the the pedal feels way softer than before, effortlessly can put it to the floor, yet clutch engages? This normal
Many people online say the brass pin wears out faster than the nylon one. There is a stainless pin but that then wears out the fork faster.. The concensus is to just put a new nylon pin in.
You must not put grease on the guide tube, the composite release bearing is self-lubricating and putting grease there will cause it to stick - just for the future. An original plastic pin is the best option. brass causes catastrophic failures because it wears too fast
Hello, i am in the process of doing a manual swap. does the all the tranny bolts need to be torque? You did not provide any torque spec in the video. Also, how were you able to put the top bolts on the tranny once the tranny slides back onto engine?
The book wasn’t clear on the torque specs for the transmission bolts so I just tightened them by feel, you might have to watch the rest of the swap videos in order to figure out the bolt situation not too sure why you’re having a problem with that. Good luck, the swap series is very detailed, just watch the whole playlist
Hey I’m doing the manual swap now everything is connected and buttoned up but whenever the clutch is engaged all the day down makes this ticking sound, hoping it’s not the throw out bearing, any ideas ?
Hey so the process would be very similar but I actually don’t know if the six-cylinder transmission fits into a four-cylinder, very good question let me know once you find out. Sorry I couldn’t be of any help, All the ones I have are six cylinders
The only difference between both is clutch and flywheel. You should be fine downgrading but if you’re trying to use a 4 cyl trans on a 6 cyl engine you may want to get a new fly/clutch
I am swapping from getrag to ZF. I have changed the getrag in the past but i seem to be running into an issue with the final stab. I can get in the disk no problem but i cannot get the last 1/2 inch to go without trying to walk in with bolts. Everything seems lined up. any suggestions? bolts hand started with minimal effort, just dont want to walk it down with the bolts. think im hooked on the pilot bearing?
Hey problem solver garage, I know this is a long shot but I am a video editor, I haven't been at it to long but I was wondering if you were interested at all in a service like that, btw love the channel currently swapping my e36 aswell!
@@ProblemSolverGarage I would love to help you out and do it absolutely free for the first and if your happy with the edits then I'm sure we can work something out!
I’ve done this job on E46 and E36 on Jackstands. Best tips: buy a small transmission scissor jack. Best $100 I ever spent. Use the Sachs grease for the input shaft and Liqui Moly for all the rest. Use only OEM Pilot bearing. Sachs and Luk throwout bearings are fine. Easiest way to reach top bolts is to lower subframe 1” while supporting engine from above. Great success every time.
Great how- to Video! Your video is the BEST video on UA-cam for step- by -step BMW E36 Transmission Installation for DIY's. Clear instructions with detail explanation! Excellent video!
Thanks
Thanks heaps for this, love the attention to detail.
No problem thanks for watching I appreciate it
Hey I know brass pivot pins are super popular but they are actually the worst option. You either wanna do the original plastic or stainless steel which will last longer. Idk why but the brass just wears away super fast
highly recommended ! top job !
Thx
All honesty mate, you are an abundance of life. I love the full intense information easy to learn and pick up I'm waiting to do the same
Nice to see you have some help! Awesome video as always
Great how-to, thanks for showing us
No problem, thanks for watching, and thanks for the feedback
my guy has a love affair with anti-seize
Man, the video is great !
What were the torque values for the bell housing bolts? Awesome videos.
YOU THE BEST!!!!!
Thanks again, and thanks for watching
To how many kg are the screws on the gearbox tightened?
can you put a screw in place of the gear selector pin?
thank you !!
Np 👍
Dude when you were done, how did the pedal feel? Just put in a new clutch kit and flywheel everything when on easy, and clutch engages, yet the the pedal feels way softer than before, effortlessly can put it to the floor, yet clutch engages? This normal
Hey can I use the manual transmission from 316i's?
Is this the same transmission For the m44?
Una pregunta, el bombín de embrague que va en la transmisión baria en el tamaño del lápiz que empuja ?? Al uno más largo que otro?
Many people online say the brass pin wears out faster than the nylon one. There is a stainless pin but that then wears out the fork faster.. The concensus is to just put a new nylon pin in.
What do I do with the auto transmission electrical connectors ? Just zip tie them somewhere?
Yes
'Hold the tranny so I can bang this thing in'
Ayyyyyy 😆
Lol
You must not put grease on the guide tube, the composite release bearing is self-lubricating and putting grease there will cause it to stick - just for the future. An original plastic pin is the best option. brass causes catastrophic failures because it wears too fast
Hello, i am in the process of doing a manual swap. does the all the tranny bolts need to be torque? You did not provide any torque spec in the video. Also, how were you able to put the top bolts on the tranny once the tranny slides back onto engine?
The book wasn’t clear on the torque specs for the transmission bolts so I just tightened them by feel, you might have to watch the rest of the swap videos in order to figure out the bolt situation not too sure why you’re having a problem with that.
Good luck, the swap series is very detailed, just watch the whole playlist
❤🎉
Hey I’m doing the manual swap now everything is connected and buttoned up but whenever the clutch is engaged all the day down makes this ticking sound, hoping it’s not the throw out bearing, any ideas ?
Hmmm
Not too sure
@@ProblemSolverGarage could a not properly bled system be the cause ?
What length did the drive shaft need to be?
I can’t remember but it’s shorter from the automatic transmission one and I believe the M3 also is a different one.
One of them is shorter one of them is longer the automatic one is shorter
what if i have the four cylinder engine? is it the same compatibility??
Hey so the process would be very similar but I actually don’t know if the six-cylinder transmission fits into a four-cylinder, very good question let me know once you find out. Sorry I couldn’t be of any help, All the ones I have are six cylinders
Yeah it does , I put a transmission from a 318is on my 328is and I does fit perfect
@@elisguerra2491 iirc all e36's have the same transmission except the m3. They all have a getrag (250 i think), but the m3 has a zf
The only difference between both is clutch and flywheel. You should be fine downgrading but if you’re trying to use a 4 cyl trans on a 6 cyl engine you may want to get a new fly/clutch
I am swapping from getrag to ZF. I have changed the getrag in the past but i seem to be running into an issue with the final stab. I can get in the disk no problem but i cannot get the last 1/2 inch to go without trying to walk in with bolts. Everything seems lined up. any suggestions? bolts hand started with minimal effort, just dont want to walk it down with the bolts. think im hooked on the pilot bearing?
Not too sure maybe your clutch isn’t centred, It should just slid in you shouldn’t have to torque it down to get it to go in
Hey problem solver garage, I know this is a long shot but I am a video editor, I haven't been at it to long but I was wondering if you were interested at all in a service like that, btw love the channel currently swapping my e36 aswell!
What would you charge to edit a video? How does it work?
@@ProblemSolverGarage I would love to help you out and do it absolutely free for the first and if your happy with the edits then I'm sure we can work something out!
@@ProblemSolverGarage Just let me know!
👍
The clutch fork & guide tube are wearable items and should be replaced.
At 23:56, that shouldn't be a nut and bolt, its a sliding pin which should be used PN: 25111221849
Thx