1967 Ford Mustang Shelby GT350 289 1/25 Scale Model Kit Build How To Assemble Paint Interior Engine
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
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AMT 1967 SHELBY GT350 USPS STAMP SERIES (TIN) 1:25 SCALE MODEL KIT AMT1356 1356
A PERENNIAL CLASSIC FOR EXPERIENCED MODELERS: AMT’s 1/25 scale 1967 Shelby GT-350 is the perfect project for muscle car builders. Add it to your collection today!
USPS THEMED TIN BOX: The handsome collectible tin packaging uses USPS imagery throughout including a stunning rendition of the GT-350 on the box lid.
FEATURE PACKED: The 1967 Shelby GT-350 is a historical muscle car that stands alone! Build it up right with a Ford 289 V8 engine and all the Shelby touches-custom rear lower pan, chrome wheels, custom taillights and front grille, bucket seats, and more.
QUICK SPECS: 1/25 Scale, 123 Parts, 7” long once assembled. Parts molded in white, clear and transparent red, with black vinyl tires. Some parts are chrome plated. Plastic model kit paint and cement required. Skill Level 2.
The Shelby Mustang is a high-performance variant of the Ford Mustang built by Shelby American from 1965 to 1967 and by the Ford Motor Company from 1968 to 1970.
In 2005, Ford revived the Shelby nameplate for a high-performance model of the fifth-generation Ford Mustang.[1]
1st generation (1965-1970)
1965-1966 Shelby GT350
1965 Shelby Mustang GT350
1966 Shelby GT350
196X Ford Mustang GT350.jpg
Shelby GT350
Overview
Production 1965-1966
Assembly United States: Los Angeles, California
Body and chassis
Body style 2-door fastback
2-door convertible
2-door hardtop
Powertrain
Engine 289 cu in (4.7 L) Windsor K-Code V8 4-barrel carb.
Transmission 3-speed automatic
4-speed manual
Dimensions
Wheelbase 108.0 in (2,743 mm)
Length 181.6 in (4,613 mm)
Chronology
Successor Standard:
1967 Shelby G.T.350 and 1968 Shelby Cobra GT350
2016 Ford Shelby GT350, GT350R
GT350H:
2006-2007 Ford Shelby GT-H
1965 GT350R
The 1965-1966 cars were the smallest and lightest of the GT 350 models. These cars are often called "Cobras", which was the Ford-powered AC-based two-seat sports car also produced by Shelby American during the same period. Both models use the Cobra emblem, similar paint scheme, and the optional "Cobra" valve covers on many GT350s that were part of a marketing tie-in by Shelby, as well as one of his iconic symbols. All 1965-66 cars had the Windsor 289 cu in (4.7 L) HiPo K-Code 271 hp (202 kW; 275 PS) V8 engine, modified with a large 4-barrel Holley 715 CFM carburetor to produce 306 bhp (310 PS; 228 kW) at 6,000 rpm and 329 lb⋅ft (446 N⋅m) of torque at 4,200 rpm.[2][3] Marketing literature referred to this engine as the "Cobra hi-riser" due to its high-riser intake manifold. Beginning as a stock Mustang with a 4-speed manual transmission and 9" live rear axle, the cars were shipped to Shelby American, where they received the high-riser manifolds, Tri-Y headers, and were given larger Ford Galaxie rear drum brakes with metallic-linings and Kelsey-Hayes front disc brakes.
The 1965 GT350 was not built for comfort or ease of driving. There were 34 "GT350R" race-spec cars built specifically for competition use under SCCA rules, and the model was the B-Production champion for three straight years.[4] The 1966 GT350 was more comfortable for casual drivers, including rear seats, optional colors, and an optional automatic transmission. This trend for more options and luxuries continued in the following years, with the cars becoming progressively larger, heavier, and more comfortable, while losing much of their competitiveness in the process. The 1969 GT350s and GT500s were largely styling modifications to a stock Mustang. By 1969 Carroll Shelby was no longer involved in the Shelby GT program, and the design was done in-house by Ford.
The 1965 and 1966 GT350s were delivered from Ford's San Jose Assembly Plant in body in white form for modification by Carroll Shelby's operation, originally in Venice Beach and later at Los Angeles International Airport. San Jose cars carried an "R" in the Ford VIN denoting that facility.[5] The only year that Shelby Mustangs from the 1960s came from another plant was 1968, where they came from New Jersey, "T" in the VIN,[6] and were modified by A.O. Smith.
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Awesome, color choice, CHRIS, LOVE YOUR VIDEOS!!
Beautiful. I like that color a lot.
Another must get kit from Round2👍
Still my favorite model video always 100%watchable
Thank you Chris!!!😁
The stories I can tell about 67 Shelby GTs - the 350 and 500 both. The first one that comes to mind - no, wait. This is about scale model building. While my stories are fun for me, they are not about models (well, there was that swim suit model). So back to the show and how detailed this kit is. And how well it can be assembled and painted to be personal. You are an impressive builder, Chris - thank you so much for doing this - and sharing.
Color is awesome.
Sterling Build Chris 🏆🏆 GBA 🤗 Gary.
Very nice
What I am holding my breath for is an AMT Re-release of the '66 Sonny and Cher mustang kit.
I've got to get this one now.
Love how you did the paint job - really turned out great.
FYI, Jim Morrison, lead singer of the Doors, owned a blue '67 GT500, which did not have the stripes up top on the hood, roof and trunk lid. Famous car, lots of pictures online.
Looks good sir.
Looks great Chris. Love the Mustangs! Fantastic interior. Thanks for the review. 👍🏻😎🐴
I enjoy your channel 👍🏿
Great video again. Time to build my regular box one
Sweet build Chris and you are right, those tires do need some raised white lettering!
Really cool
Another huge hit Chris always been a big fan of the mustang as always stay safe and positive keep up the amazing work
That’s a cool kit and I Love the tin’s. You made that look sharp !
Nice
Very nice! Another great review and build! 👍🏻
Very cool build! I actually own an original 67 Shelby GT 500 that was my dad's.
The stripes were dealer option. They are called Le Mans stripes, usually painted with Ford Wimbledon White. The "center lights" are actually the high beams. The hood, front fascia, rear trunk, rear tail light panel and side scoops are functional. The bottom scoops cool the rear brake drums. All the parts are hand laid fiberglass. The rollbar is functional with inertia style shoulder harness that actually work.
Koni shocks came standard as well as traction bars for the rear springs.
Some states didn't allow the "center lights" so they were moved outward in the grill.
Genuine steering wheels are made in Italy and are made of real wood. Very $$$ today for a genuine one. The tail light lenses are from the early 60's T-Birds. The gauges below the dash are Seward Warner oil pressure and Amp gauges.
1967 was the last year Shelby built them for Ford dealerships out of El Sagundo, California.
These cars were incredible for those days.
Keep up the amazing work. Wish Amt would do a GT 500 and have decals for the gauges.
My first car in high school (class of '76) was a '68 Ford Mustang.. ! It was gold in color and had the turn signals on top of the hood.. my Dad sold it while I was in the AF..
Absolutely IMPRESSIVE Mustang build Chris! The detail is awesome all the way around! That Bronze finish is just beautiful! I have yourself to thank for the techniques you do such as using markers for trim detail and such! I have definitely matured as a modeler!!
Your cab over is very interesting. It's so cool how you are analyzing the original build and explaining the process it went through. Thanks for the video 😎👍
Just finished watching this build review, looks great. I really like the bronze paint color you used and just the side decals.
Love the car and the puertorican song on minute 34.
Nice job, as usual, Chris. Have it on pre-order to go along with the other 3 of the set. Thanks for this build.
Lovely
Really needs the stripes but looks great regardless
Nicely done video, nice touch on the chrome on the front seats--everyone who's owned one of these cars remembers the passenger seatback flying forward on a panic stop with no passenger to hold it in place.
The first three generations of Mustang had their floorpans done in red oxide, with the front frame clip in black. the pinion or "ham" of the 9 inch rear axle was also in red oxide, with the rest of the rear axle housing in black. Driveshafts were often steel with a red and blue ring midway up to denote the heavier duty requirements of the U joints over a six cylinder engine. If anyone building these gets the chance, take a peek inside a real fastback Mustang, there's an interior light setup in the rear pillars that's easy to replicate on a model.
Very nice build. That is a very nice kit. I recently built one, and loved building it. Only using the side decals is a great idea. My stripes on the hood cracked, which made a mess. You did a great job. Nice color choice. Thanks for sharing.
I am re-building one... and if I do stripes, I think those need to be painted.
@@billspruce8368 Yes, they need to be painted. When I build a second one, which I will. Have to get the metal box. I just love those.
Looks great! I just finished the mid 90's issue of this kit a few days ago and I had fitment issues with the body and some of the interior parts. Very frustrating, but I managed to get her done. I'll have to pick up one of these and give it another shot.
Well you have gotten me close to doing 1 in a week!
i got this kit and i tried putting on the white striping on a red body was looking really good til i got to the last trunk stripe and it ripped to shreds really pissed me off, so i took the decals off and put the stripe under the doors,i have never really had any luck with the trunk decals in the past.
It looks like they have improved on some of the flaws the original kit had when it came out in the mid-1990s. Good call on the bigger stripes because I found they didn't go on as smoothly as the ones on the Revell Shelby kits. Like the color choice and the "stripe delete" as they'd call it in modern times.
~I just did this car but not the stamp collection~it was molded in black and did another a few months back just like this one too as that one was molded in white like this one~I did it as a pro stocker with a fully blown 429 cu in engine~raised the back of it with shackles and high rise shock absorbers~painted exterior yellow and the interior black~
Not calling you out, Chris, just FYI, the steering damper is actually a slave cylinder for power steering assist, with lines that go to power steering pump, do not cross those lines at slave cylinder, don't ask how I know, just, don't start the car by sticking you arm thru the steering wheel, it hurts like heck!!!
I dumped that Ford PS on my 68 and put on a Borgeson set up. No more leaks😉
This is nice
The reason you see Shelby’s with and without stripes is they didn’t come from Shelby American with racing stripes. Racing stripes were a dealer installed option. I read they were $40.
Thanks for the info. :)
I’ve put together quite a few Mustang Fastbacks and this one looks cool, I love the color you used and I love the tin box as well, might have to pick this one up. Question: what do you do with your models when you complete them? Do you store them, display them, given them away? I bet you have quite a collection. I’ve been watching your channel on and off for a few years and I’ve used quite a few of the techniques you use in building your models. We all love your channel and keep doing what you’re doing.
I'm sure he gets tired of answering this same question (what do you do with completed kits) over and over and over.........
@@urbanurchin5930 I don’t think he does or he might of said something and how am I to know if he asked that all of the time? What f***ing business is that of yours dips***?!?!
I want ten
My guess with the stance......and Ferd guys, please don't flame me, my guess is they used the same springs with the small bock, and big block for cost savings.
Chris, the car looks bitchin!!!
Ford used different rate coil springs and leaf springs depending on which engine was installed and what options the car has.
I admire your technique and I want to build my models that way by assembling then painting, but what about when you assemble them on the tree? You still have to cut and leave bare spots. What do you do? Just spot them??
I wonder if you could lay down a coat of white paint and press a model tire down on it to white letter the tires?
I just did that in a video no more than a week ago, so, yes. :)
@@hpiguy I missed that one. I'll check it out. Thanks
?????What kind of glue you use putting the plastic model together Sir, ????? Thx
Do you bake or dehydrate the Rustoleum 2x, such as what you put on the engine? I swear, that stuff stays tacky for a week.
What do you use to put them together?
wasn't feeling the wheels to much since i felt it should of gotten the other set
Odd duck laugh out loud
Where did you get the body color? I've never heard of that brand
I’ve seen those in Wal Mart and hobby lobby. They are geared toward household crafts.
It didn't come out quite well Chris. It came out REAL well. I love it! I like how you kinda stay away from the "too common colors" 🔴⚫🟡🔵. We see you was able to put on the trunk lid without trouble, wonder 🤔 why they didn't remove that themselves in the molding process. It's like there thinking "Here, let's give them this big piece of flash to deal with."
I like Mustang's and Bosses but didn't really care for the Shelby as much. I think it's because I never knew anyone that owned one, never even seen one until the 2000's before then I've only seen them in magazine's and model kit form.