Want to dive deeper subjects like this? Consider becoming a channel member. Otherwise, what's the biggest challenge you'd like to overcome in the hobby right now? ⬇Let me know! ⬇
Rustoleum gloss enamel takes lots of time to get dry. I used to cringe when people asked me why I was not using an airbrush, but I just thought the same as you about the time and effort that it takes to clean the equipment. There's another master modelist from whom I learned a lot about painting and building cars. His name is Chris, with the hpi guys channel on youtube. He also uses rustoleum paints along with tamiya. I do all my paint works with spray can as well. Thanks for sharing this valued information.
Hey! I'm a long time RC modeler and enjoy new insights. I want to give a shout to one of the G.O.A.T.s of the hobby, Dave Platt. He has several instructional and informative DVDs for sale.
Instead of shaking a can of paint especially one that has been sitting for a while do this. Measure the bottom of the can , there are only a few sizes, and make a round sized circle out of 3/4" plywood drill a 1/4" hole offset 3/16' from center and put in a 1/4" bolt/nut . Get your electric drill simply hold the can on the wood and vibrate the can. Even the small glass bottles with a few BB's in them can be held on the side of the wheel to quickly mix the paint.
Hi great video on painting technique . Wondering if there is a specific paint I can use for foam plane ? I have been informed that car paint 🎨should not be used as it interacts with the foam. Thanks
It depends on the type of foam. Most foam arfs are made of epo foam which is extremely resilient to solvents. And while I wouldn’t recommend using rc car paint on it, I haven’t found a paint medium that won’t work on epo. What are you painting specifically?
Thank you, Chris, for sharing your expertise. I've got an Eflight Carbon Z Trojan sitting in the box waiting to be built. I plan on painting it before assembly. Unless you advise otherwise. I will be joining your series of Masterclasses.
I really appreciate this video, Chris. I've used your tips before and had great results. Even used Post It notes to "tape" off a few spots on my FMS Maule. Put metallic silver highlights on that bright blue and it pops. I'll be referring back to this when I touch up a few spots on my 1400mm F4U. I'll check Tamiya out for that iconic Navy blue. Thanks! This is awesome. I'll have to ask Santa for your new book, now. 👍
The tamiya blue is a nice color, but unfortunately isn’t dark enough for to be a true dark sea blue that the corsairs were painted. It might still match the stock paint though, not sure? Santa can definitely deliver Geek books! 😆
Thanks for the video. Just received a yellow T-28 that looks like everyone else's in my club. Peeled off the decals and have some spray cans. Should I use acetone on the yellow or just start sanding w/600 then primer?
Right on! I’d leave the yellow on it and just start primering over it. You’ll need to level the areas where you peeled the stickers, so sand those areas with some 220 grit first and then you should be able to get a decent blend through a couple primer layers sanding between coats.
Question on the primer sand primer sand process. If the base coat is going to be black can I do the primer sand process with the 2x black rustoleum paint? or should I do it base gray then paint on the black? Thank you.
You can use a black primer for sure, but I’d recommend using an automotive type primer that sands well. The rustoleum 2x primer doesn’t sand that great.
Hi Chris. An excellent vid. yeah I do both but mainly spray cans. Some good pointers there chap. T33 looks epic and be excellent to see in the air. Keep at it now, Outa the bottom of the World NZ.😁🤣🤣😎
Great video! One question: do you do a light sanding before applying the clear coat? Or did I miss that part? My plane is painted (many thanks for the tips!) and I won't be able to clear coat it untill next weekend... So I guess it would need to be sanded with fine paper?
Yeah, you can sand at any time during the process. I’ll usually lightly wet sand taped edges to knock them down amongst other things. Just be careful not to over do it because you’ll start to sand the paint away. Otherwise, if the airframe is clean, there’s not really a need to sand before clear unless there’s roughness or other problem areas you want to knock down.
Great tips thanks Chris. Can you tell me if you've ever sprayed Rustoleum or similar into an airbrush container and then put it through your airbrush for finer control? If so what did you use for the clean up?. Cheers.
Yep, I’ve done that. I did that on this project actually to help tone down the panel lines. Anyhow, I cleaned the airbrush with lacquer thinner when I was done spraying. I use that to clean everything out of it. 😆
It would be nice to hear your opinion on untaping. How long after spraying a tyaped off area do you untape? Is there a perticular procedure you use for removing the tape i.e. direction to pull?
I mentioned it in the T-33 paint and weathering vid, but I’ll let the paint dry completely before removing. You run the risk of marring the finish if you pull it up sooner than that. And then for peeling it up, it’s imperative to peel the tape back 180 degrees over itself almost parallel to the surface. This will minimize the surface tension when pulling the tape and reduces the possibility of lifting up the under surface.
Another great video! I was wondering if you have ever tested Rustoleum or Krylon color and clear spray paints against nitro fuel. I have been searching for a cheap substitute to replace the expensive epoxy paint to withstand nitro fuel, but have not found a good alternative yet :-)) Also, I want to ask you if you know alcohol-based Tamiya acrylic paint is suitable on nitrate doped (lacquer-based) tissue surfaces for rubber models. Again, great video, and thanks for posting it.
What a great tip video. I have to models to paint soon and this will be very useful - Sadly here the spray cans are too expensive and i use acrylic water based paints on my models. Anyway the tips are welcome ! thanks! 😁
I found out that using Rust-oleum and Krylon with each other I get "Krazing" or a crackle like effect going one way or the other helps reduce this as well as warm paint and warm object being painted.
Yeah, it’s can be risky mixing mediums. Some of that might be the amount of paint applied too. Acrylic based paints will craze when there are a lot of layers.
Here's a tip. Brandon of Just Plane Crazy did a UA-cam video where talcom powder was lightly placed on the surface where the masking tape will be applied. This reduced the potential of the paint pulling up. Any powder on the surface to be painted is not a problem as it will dissappear in the painting process. I have tried it with good results.
Great stuff! Curious, have you used varthane brand polycrylic top coating? Supposedly it has non yellowing agents, so far (knock on wood) I haven't seen any yellowing on the many planes I refinished with it. Also, have you found that tamiya tends to stick better than Rustloeum when pulling back the frog tape? I've been frustrated after letting paint dry for 2 days or more, and it still lifts the paint away sometimes. I put the tape on and off my T-shirt a few times to get rid of some of the tack, but it doesn't always help. Great video- thanks!
Ive not used verathane, so cant say. I’m glad to hear about the non-yellowing agents in it, that’s good! I do think that the adhesion from the Tamiya is better. The other key is to make sure you’re peeling the tape back over itself. If you’re lifting straight up, it’s far more likely to lift paint.
QUESTION - it appears you release pressure on the tip at the end of a pass as you go back and forth and then press down again as you begin the next pass - is that superior to continuing to hold down the tip throughout whatever number of passes you make ?
What I’ve found is that pressing down continuously is more likely to result in runs and/or flooding of the paint. This is especially the case if you don’t spray past the model before changing directions.
I’m looking for reference photos for placement of data and maintenance decals for the T-28. Any help would be appreciated. Seeing the B-58 again made me sad.🤣
rustoleum painters touch and vht paints are enamel based and when talking about clears you said use a lacquer based clear coat, you can spray enamel over lacquer but you can't spray lacquer over enamel, it will react badly usually in the form of spider webbing and cracking.....
From a paint standpoint, that can be problematic. From a clear standpoint, I have applied lacquer clears over all sorts of paint mediums without issue. Since lacquer dries so quickly, the key is to avoid spraying it on super wet as that’s when issues will arise. I only just dust the clear on and have never had a reaction from it.
Not epo foam which most foam arfs are made of these days. epo foam which is extremely resilient to solvents and can handle pretty much any paint medium.
I keep watching this tutorial over and over. Two questions: (1) Perhaps I missed it, but you didn't mention what the initial primer on the foam was. Was it Rustoleum gray auto primer? (2) Is Rustoleum Clear Matte spray a lacquer-based product? I know their enamel paints are lacquer-based, but I have no idea about the 2x products. The safety data sheet on the matte spray says the composition contains acetone so I am guessing it is most likely lacquer-based. I would appreciate it if you can comment on these two questions. Happy holidays.
The primer I use for the base work is duplicolor filler primer. The rustoleum paints are acrylic enamels I believe. Regarding the clear, I’m not 100% certain if the rustoleum clear is a true lacquer or not actually.
@@Thercgeek Thank you. I tried all the Rustoleum clears, enamel matte and 2x matte. They are awful period. They wrinkle the enamel Rustoleum paint underneath even though the paint has been dried for a week. I will try Krylon matte clear, Mr Color matte clear and Tamiya matte clear next. The whole idea behind using matte clear spray is that I want to use Rustoleum oil-based enamels (they are wonderful) that come in 1 qt side cans you can intermix to create all sorts of different secondaries for military colors. But, they are all gloss and need to be covered with matte clear from some manufacturer. The trick is to find that matte clear :-))
I’m waiting on a shipment of controllers which are being built now. I expect I should have them later this month. You can pre-order still if you like. Otherwise, I’d recommend checking back closer to Christmas.
I sprayed my RBC kits T33 with a enamel on top of fiberglass and it looked beautiful, then sprayed a enamel clear and instantly it was crazing acting like a paint stripper crinkling the base coat. I wasn't happy after all the masking and decals already done. I don't know why it did that.
Well, that sucks! For whatever reason, there was a reaction. Was it the same brand? How heavy was the clear applied? Heavy coats of clear can cause that too in my experience. Typically, I’ll stick to lacquer based clears and generally just dust them on.
damn. hate it when that happens. especially annoying when there's no obvious reason for it. I will echo what Thercgeek is saying... too heavy too quick can do it, and so can getting to close to the surface. If you did everything to spec... possibly a dud can. It's pretty rare, but I have seen it.
Well, I’ll be honest that my experience has been the complete opposite. All of the foam models I’ve done full refinished on like this T-33 have flown better despite the weight gain. I think it’s in part due to the airframe being more rigid and smoother.
This is actually the first comment I’ve seen from you here. I’m wondering if whatever you tried to post just failed to come through. Please try again if you don’t mind? This whole vid and comment section is all about helping folks.
@Thercgeek Could ut have been because I mentioned a brand name or because I mentioned the big A name website where you go to buy things. I never know what rules are in place
I’m not really sure. Often times things can get held for review when there are links and things like that and I checked there and didn’t see anything either. Would love to know the tips you had tried to post. 😊
Plus one on Tamiya paint! I use it whenever I can! Here is a link to the refinish I did on my 1/4 scale 109. My 1/4 scale ME-109 Complete Refurb @merlinpower100 ua-cam.com/video/5OfKrVypZYo/v-deo.html Great videos Chris! Keep em coming!
Sorry editor , but which sense does it make to jump in one scene from one size to another similar size. Your understanding of the picture language is a little bit of beginner mode , senseless.
Want to dive deeper subjects like this? Consider becoming a channel member. Otherwise, what's the biggest challenge you'd like to overcome in the hobby right now? ⬇Let me know! ⬇
I use the yellow frog tape it has a little less adhesion.
Cool. I’ve only used the green to date and have been extremely happy with it.
Excellent video!
Thank you very much!
Setting the can in a container with an inch or so of warm water for a bit can also help the paint flow better.
Good tip! I’ve done that in the past and is probably a good idea when using lower quality paints.
Rustoleum gloss enamel takes lots of time to get dry. I used to cringe when people asked me why I was not using an airbrush, but I just thought the same as you about the time and effort that it takes to clean the equipment. There's another master modelist from whom I learned a lot about painting and building cars. His name is Chris, with the hpi guys channel on youtube. He also uses rustoleum paints along with tamiya. I do all my paint works with spray can as well. Thanks for sharing this valued information.
Gloss in general is a pain. I always spray flat because they tend to cover better and dry better too.
Excellent video Chris. Thanks for a detail explanation of painting processes. Cheers from Memphis, TN
Glad it was helpful!
very interesting ! thank you for your time to do this...Tamiya is excellent ....
Have you tried the yellow "delicate surface" Frog tape? Highly recommended for use when foam refinishing.
I’ve only used the green and have been extremely happy with it
“Not always can you find” 😂 Love your content Chris!
😆
Superb !!!
Thanks a lot
Great video, thank you for the tips! I’m currently making a video on how to paint a foamboard plane and this will help out for sure.
Awesome, hope it helps! I'm always trying to simplify things.
Hey! I'm a long time RC modeler and enjoy new insights. I want to give a shout to one of the G.O.A.T.s of the hobby, Dave Platt. He has several instructional and informative DVDs for sale.
Yep, Dave Platt is a legend! I don’t believe he’s selling dvds anymore though. Doesn’t look like he even has a website anymore.
Thank you for showing how to do this.
So glad it’s helpful!
Instead of shaking a can of paint especially one that has been sitting for a while do this. Measure the bottom of the can , there are only a few sizes, and make a round sized circle out of 3/4" plywood drill a 1/4" hole offset 3/16' from center and put in a 1/4" bolt/nut . Get your electric drill simply hold the can on the wood and vibrate the can. Even the small glass bottles with a few BB's in them can be held on the side of the wheel to quickly mix the paint.
I like it! It’s always good to try a new technique. Thanks for sharing. 😊
Great video, I am just learning to weather and add panel lines. What would you suggest for a dark plane like the FMS 1700mm Corsair?
Hi great video on painting technique .
Wondering if there is a specific paint I can use for foam plane ? I have been informed that car paint 🎨should not be used as it interacts with the foam. Thanks
It depends on the type of foam. Most foam arfs are made of epo foam which is extremely resilient to solvents. And while I wouldn’t recommend using rc car paint on it, I haven’t found a paint medium that won’t work on epo. What are you painting specifically?
@@Thercgeek Hi Chris , the plane is made of EPP foam . It’s small and I need to see port starboard etc .
Thanks
Thank you, Chris, for sharing your expertise. I've got an Eflight Carbon Z Trojan sitting in the box waiting to be built. I plan on painting it before assembly. Unless you advise otherwise. I will be joining your series of Masterclasses.
Sounds like a really fun project. The CZ T-28 flies incredible
I really appreciate this video, Chris. I've used your tips before and had great results. Even used Post It notes to "tape" off a few spots on my FMS Maule. Put metallic silver highlights on that bright blue and it pops.
I'll be referring back to this when I touch up a few spots on my 1400mm F4U. I'll check Tamiya out for that iconic Navy blue.
Thanks! This is awesome. I'll have to ask Santa for your new book, now. 👍
The tamiya blue is a nice color, but unfortunately isn’t dark enough for to be a true dark sea blue that the corsairs were painted. It might still match the stock paint though, not sure? Santa can definitely deliver Geek books! 😆
Thanks for the video. Just received a yellow T-28 that looks like everyone else's in my club. Peeled off the decals and have some spray cans. Should I use acetone on the yellow or just start sanding w/600 then primer?
Right on! I’d leave the yellow on it and just start primering over it. You’ll need to level the areas where you peeled the stickers, so sand those areas with some 220 grit first and then you should be able to get a decent blend through a couple primer layers sanding between coats.
Question on the primer sand primer sand process. If the base coat is going to be black can I do the primer sand process with the 2x black rustoleum paint? or should I do it base gray then paint on the black? Thank you.
You can use a black primer for sure, but I’d recommend using an automotive type primer that sands well. The rustoleum 2x primer doesn’t sand that great.
@ awesome any recommendations on which automotive primer to use that won’t eat foam? Thanks Chris!
Hi Chris. An excellent vid. yeah I do both but mainly spray cans. Some good pointers there chap. T33 looks epic and be excellent to see in the air. Keep at it now, Outa the bottom of the World NZ.😁🤣🤣😎
Thanks! The T-33 is flying soon, can't wait to share the video. 😊
Great video!
One question: do you do a light sanding before applying the clear coat? Or did I miss that part? My plane is painted (many thanks for the tips!) and I won't be able to clear coat it untill next weekend... So I guess it would need to be sanded with fine paper?
Yeah, you can sand at any time during the process. I’ll usually lightly wet sand taped edges to knock them down amongst other things. Just be careful not to over do it because you’ll start to sand the paint away. Otherwise, if the airframe is clean, there’s not really a need to sand before clear unless there’s roughness or other problem areas you want to knock down.
Great tips thanks Chris. Can you tell me if you've ever sprayed Rustoleum or similar into an airbrush container and then put it through your airbrush for finer control? If so what did you use for the clean up?. Cheers.
Yep, I’ve done that. I did that on this project actually to help tone down the panel lines. Anyhow, I cleaned the airbrush with lacquer thinner when I was done spraying. I use that to clean everything out of it. 😆
@@Thercgeek Brilliant. Thanks Chris. That's exactly what I need to do with my project so I'll give it a try. Cheers.
Do you know of any chrome spray paint that comes out like chrome regards Neil from Australia 🇦🇺
It would be nice to hear your opinion on untaping. How long after spraying a tyaped off area do you untape? Is there a perticular procedure you use for removing the tape i.e. direction to pull?
I mentioned it in the T-33 paint and weathering vid, but I’ll let the paint dry completely before removing. You run the risk of marring the finish if you pull it up sooner than that. And then for peeling it up, it’s imperative to peel the tape back 180 degrees over itself almost parallel to the surface. This will minimize the surface tension when pulling the tape and reduces the possibility of lifting up the under surface.
Another great video! I was wondering if you have ever tested Rustoleum or Krylon color and clear spray paints against nitro fuel. I have been searching for a cheap substitute to replace the expensive epoxy paint to withstand nitro fuel, but have not found a good alternative yet :-)) Also, I want to ask you if you know alcohol-based Tamiya acrylic paint is suitable on nitrate doped (lacquer-based) tissue surfaces for rubber models. Again, great video, and thanks for posting it.
What a great tip video. I have to models to paint soon and this will be very useful - Sadly here the spray cans are too expensive and i use acrylic water based paints on my models. Anyway the tips are welcome ! thanks! 😁
So glad it’s helpful!
I found out that using Rust-oleum and Krylon with each other I get "Krazing" or a crackle like effect going one way or the other helps reduce this as well as warm paint and warm object being painted.
Yeah, it’s can be risky mixing mediums. Some of that might be the amount of paint applied too. Acrylic based paints will craze when there are a lot of layers.
Here's a tip. Brandon of Just Plane Crazy did a UA-cam video where talcom powder was lightly placed on the surface where the masking tape will be applied. This reduced the potential of the paint pulling up. Any powder on the surface to be painted is not a problem as it will dissappear in the painting process. I have tried it with good results.
Yep, that will help with detacking the tape. Just be careful not to use too much or the tape won’t seal properly.
Great stuff! Curious, have you used varthane brand polycrylic top coating? Supposedly it has non yellowing agents, so far (knock on wood) I haven't seen any yellowing on the many planes I refinished with it. Also, have you found that tamiya tends to stick better than Rustloeum when pulling back the frog tape? I've been frustrated after letting paint dry for 2 days or more, and it still lifts the paint away sometimes. I put the tape on and off my T-shirt a few times to get rid of some of the tack, but it doesn't always help. Great video- thanks!
Ive not used verathane, so cant say. I’m glad to hear about the non-yellowing agents in it, that’s good! I do think that the adhesion from the Tamiya is better. The other key is to make sure you’re peeling the tape back over itself. If you’re lifting straight up, it’s far more likely to lift paint.
@@Thercgeek appreciate the tip and will have to remember that next time, thanks Chris!
QUESTION - it appears you release pressure on the tip at the end of a pass as you go back and forth and then press down again as you begin the next pass -
is that superior to continuing to hold down the tip throughout whatever number of passes you make ?
What I’ve found is that pressing down continuously is more likely to result in runs and/or flooding of the paint. This is especially the case if you don’t spray past the model before changing directions.
@@Thercgeek I see....and spraying past sounds like good technique also, thanks !
I’m looking for reference photos for placement of data and maintenance decals for the T-28. Any help would be appreciated. Seeing the B-58 again made me sad.🤣
Good question on the placard data. I’ll usually search for walk around pics and plastic model decals when looking for stuff like that.
rustoleum painters touch and vht paints are enamel based and when talking about clears you said use a lacquer based clear coat, you can spray enamel over lacquer but you can't spray lacquer over enamel, it will react badly usually in the form of spider webbing and cracking.....
From a paint standpoint, that can be problematic. From a clear standpoint, I have applied lacquer clears over all sorts of paint mediums without issue. Since lacquer dries so quickly, the key is to avoid spraying it on super wet as that’s when issues will arise. I only just dust the clear on and have never had a reaction from it.
Doesn’t lacquer paint eat foam?
Not epo foam which most foam arfs are made of these days. epo foam which is extremely resilient to solvents and can handle pretty much any paint medium.
I keep watching this tutorial over and over. Two questions: (1) Perhaps I missed it, but you didn't mention what the initial primer on the foam was. Was it Rustoleum gray auto primer? (2) Is Rustoleum Clear Matte spray a lacquer-based product? I know their enamel paints are lacquer-based, but I have no idea about the 2x products. The safety data sheet on the matte spray says the composition contains acetone so I am guessing it is most likely lacquer-based. I would appreciate it if you can comment on these two questions. Happy holidays.
The primer I use for the base work is duplicolor filler primer. The rustoleum paints are acrylic enamels I believe. Regarding the clear, I’m not 100% certain if the rustoleum clear is a true lacquer or not actually.
@@Thercgeek Thank you. I tried all the Rustoleum clears, enamel matte and 2x matte. They are awful period. They wrinkle the enamel Rustoleum paint underneath even though the paint has been dried for a week. I will try Krylon matte clear, Mr Color matte clear and Tamiya matte clear next. The whole idea behind using matte clear spray is that I want to use Rustoleum oil-based enamels (they are wonderful) that come in 1 qt side cans you can intermix to create all sorts of different secondaries for military colors. But, they are all gloss and need to be covered with matte clear from some manufacturer. The trick is to find that matte clear :-))
When are the rafale after burners coming back in stock
I’m waiting on a shipment of controllers which are being built now. I expect I should have them later this month. You can pre-order still if you like. Otherwise, I’d recommend checking back closer to Christmas.
I sprayed my RBC kits T33 with a enamel on top of fiberglass and it looked beautiful, then sprayed a enamel clear and instantly it was crazing acting like a paint stripper crinkling the base coat. I wasn't happy after all the masking and decals already done. I don't know why it did that.
Well, that sucks! For whatever reason, there was a reaction. Was it the same brand? How heavy was the clear applied? Heavy coats of clear can cause that too in my experience. Typically, I’ll stick to lacquer based clears and generally just dust them on.
@Thercgeek yup same brand
damn. hate it when that happens. especially annoying when there's no obvious reason for it. I will echo what Thercgeek is saying... too heavy too quick can do it, and so can getting to close to the surface. If you did everything to spec... possibly a dud can. It's pretty rare, but I have seen it.
I’ve painted two planes and the added weight made them very hard to land. I think I’m done painting even though it looks good
Well, I’ll be honest that my experience has been the complete opposite. All of the foam models I’ve done full refinished on like this T-33 have flown better despite the weight gain. I think it’s in part due to the airframe being more rigid and smoother.
Dude, painting a plane isn't going to add that much weight... are you sure it isn't all in your head?
@ Go pick up 3 rattle cans and it will be 20 percent of the weight of a foam plane.
I heard there's going to be no more tamiya paints I think by the end of year spray cans was the talk not sure about the little paints
Well, I sure hope that’s not true!
I'm curious as to why my comment was removed. Is that what happens when you try to help others?
This is actually the first comment I’ve seen from you here. I’m wondering if whatever you tried to post just failed to come through. Please try again if you don’t mind? This whole vid and comment section is all about helping folks.
@Thercgeek Could ut have been because I mentioned a brand name or because I mentioned the big A name website where you go to buy things. I never know what rules are in place
I’m not really sure. Often times things can get held for review when there are links and things like that and I checked there and didn’t see anything either. Would love to know the tips you had tried to post. 😊
Plus one on Tamiya paint! I use it whenever I can! Here is a link to the refinish I did on my 1/4 scale 109. My 1/4 scale ME-109 Complete Refurb @merlinpower100
ua-cam.com/video/5OfKrVypZYo/v-deo.html
Great videos Chris! Keep em coming!
Very cool! That 109 came out gorgeous!
@@Thercgeek thank you!
Sorry editor , but which sense does it make to jump in one scene from one size to another similar size. Your understanding of the picture language is a little bit of beginner mode , senseless.
I have no idea what you’re talking about, but thanks! 🤣
@ think about it
@tommycash7811 🤷♂️