Just love watching these videos Chris, seeing this gorgeous little car come back to life. As for that tank, it will definately need to be baffled to reduce weight shift over the front of the car especially when say half full. I can see that without it this could make the front end of the car quite unpredictable. For the sake of having to template and shape four pieces of plate welded inside, it would make a world of difference on the road. I hope you manage to get that pesky liner out. I'm wondering if this is a blown type moulding done in situ via the filler aperture, hence the small amount of shrinkage that there seems to be in the end piece you cut away first. Makes sense seeing as most cheap gallon cans from a garage are produced this way. it allows for expansion and contraction without cracking the moulding. I imagine at the factory a heated slug piece being placed into the filler and pressurised created this to save on production time and cost. I can't wait to see how you get on, keep up the great work! 👌
Hey Doc, thanks for the inquiry. I have been unavoidably detained from my auto or cycle creations. However, I AM going to be back soon with a cornucopia of catch-up videos. Thank you for commenting. Best regards!
Watch this last night, I was thinking that a cheap body panel flanger might help in the fitting and brazing of the tank ends for abetter joint, just thinking!!
When the tank and everything up front is complete a Strut bar would complete the look!
That is the plan man!
Just love watching these videos Chris, seeing this gorgeous little car come back to life. As for that tank, it will definately need to be baffled to reduce weight shift over the front of the car especially when say half full. I can see that without it this could make the front end of the car quite unpredictable. For the sake of having to template and shape four pieces of plate welded inside, it would make a world of difference on the road. I hope you manage to get that pesky liner out. I'm wondering if this is a blown type moulding done in situ via the filler aperture, hence the small amount of shrinkage that there seems to be in the end piece you cut away first. Makes sense seeing as most cheap gallon cans from a garage are produced this way. it allows for expansion and contraction without cracking the moulding. I imagine at the factory a heated slug piece being placed into the filler and pressurised created this to save on production time and cost. I can't wait to see how you get on, keep up the great work! 👌
Thank you for the thoughtful comment. Yes, I am wanting to baffle it as you described, I'm thinking about placement and how many to install.
Beer keg. Nuff said!
😆
Can I ask how to remove the front headlight please 🙏
A year has gone by? No new updates at all?
Any updates?
Hey Doc, thanks for the inquiry. I have been unavoidably detained from my auto or cycle creations. However, I AM going to be back soon with a cornucopia of catch-up videos. Thank you for commenting. Best regards!
Please don’t keep us waiting forever!
Watch this last night, I was thinking that a cheap body panel flanger might help in the fitting and brazing of the tank ends for abetter joint, just thinking!!
I just happen to have a Harbour Freight air flanger/hole punch that could do the job! Great idea!