As a former washer tech, I find your video the best I’ve found on You tube. You are a valuable asset to the public! Thanks! I will continue to watch your videos in the future😁
Hi Nancy, As a former washer tech do you have any suggestions on where someone like me who has no experience can go get technical training to fix washers and dryers?
You have saved my hair loss issues. Lol. I stopped repairing appliances about 15 years ago due to family and new job. Just starting to get back into it and with the addition of electronics, I’ve spent hours scratching my head with various issues that are in this video. I have a stack of these machines in my shop waiting for repairs so I can resell them. I can literally get 5 to 10 a week where people have tossed them. Now, thanks to you I can do the proper diagnostics instead of doing the old parts change and see method. I can’t tell you how much I appreciate this video. I’m sure you put a lot of thought and effort in it. Thank you a million times.
Awesome! I pray your business goes great! You could also help answer questions in the comments here! They should make it where you can tip comments. ❤😊❤
sir you have fixed my washer.. I have this model without the agitator.. from finding the manual to running diagnostics this video led to replacing the actuator which fixed the issue, I didn't even need the manual thanks to your understandable how to.. part for $25 and two hours total and it's gold! thanks so much..
You sir are a hero and a life saver!!! Watched your videos on whirlpool washing machine and was able to diagnose/find the problem. $40 fix compared to $300 for someone to come look at it
This is a very helpful and easy to understand video. Why would they hide the manual like that? Here's a tip for washing machine dummies like me. If your washer has stopped spinning, take the wet clothes out first! When I finally did that it turned out a long sleeve had gotten wrapped around the thing in the middle and was stuck, causing it not to spin. Once I managed to get the sleeve unstuck the machine was able to spin again. I felt so stupid for not checking that first! .
Your videos have been very helpful, thank you very much. My shift actuator is shot, just ordered a new one from you. Without your videos I would not have known what to do, thank-you.
Thanks so much! Using your video I went from knowing nothing about how my washer worked to being able to diagnose the failure of the washing tub's ability to spin. I removed the washer hub and found that the spines were completely worn away. I ordered a replacement from Ben's Appliances and Junk and it worked perfectly. After installing and recalibrating, I put it back into test mode and tried the high spin, and WHIIIIIRL! It spins so fast now.
Well done. The service manual can be reached from underneath without removing the top. The lid lock latch can be removed from the lid and inserted into the lock so you can open the lid to see what is happening. Safer doing it this way vs having the top tipped back. Overall, very good video. Best I've seen. The Tech Sheet shows power to the shifter motor is Pin 3 and Pin 6 for the black shifter, like you said. But the way you are holding it, those pins are on the opposite side that you tested for motor continuity. Note that pin numbers are molded into the male connector.
I got the exact same code on my whirlpool washer. While replacing the shifter, I found a mouse nest preventing the check eyes from reading the motor speed. Cleaned out the nest and bingo! Thanks for your help. I couldn't have done it without you!
So this video is super helpful. But before you take your machine apart like I did, check your drain hose. My washer was just fine after I unclogged the hose. Some spinning issues, turns out, come from improper drainage. Works like a champ now. This video is definitely a $$$ saver if you have a piece that has broken
Following your instructions I was able to get into the diagnostic mode. I then did the reset. The washer went into the spin cycle and ran for about 10 minutes. It was noisier than usual and made me think that maybe I hadn't tighten something good enough. Anyway it did spin so I think I can assume the motor is OK. Thanks again for the great videos.
Hey your video got me farther then any other video on Whirlpool washers Iam right in the middle of fixing my washer I had to change lid lock and actuator… you explained things so calm and easy I appreciate you bro more then u could imagine at the moment 😂
My Maytag washer is about 3 years old. I replaced the clutch assembly and the actuator. It still won't go into the spin cycle. I did not reset the washer. I will try to now. I am working on the diagnostics. What a great video! Jack Willey
Hi Ben, I had this issue, spinning but no agitation, realized actuator arm was broken. Put a new one in last week. All else looked good. Recalibrated, worked for 3-4 loads then no spinning and no agitation. Just humming now. Check actuator and it was working fine. Pulled capacitor and it was bad, not holding charge. Put a new oem one in. Calibrated machine and motor still just humming. If I spin the drum I can get it to spin and//or agitate by starting turning drum or agitator manually to get it going. Pulled capacitor, it went blew again. Checked all wiring to motor, to actuator, to capacitor- all is to spec. Motor spins without issue when belt pulled off. Getting F7-E1 fault (well now new capacitor is shot). Pulled trans, everything spins free and appears to be in good working order. No idea where to go from here. It’s been about 10-11 days with this thing trying to figure it out. Any thoughts- I think bad motor. Even though I cannot seem to find anything wrong with it.
This is great information. I have not had good luck with these washers though. I've been through two and my son has been through one just in a few short years
Help. Very helpful, I used this video to determine that it the shifter needed replacing, now a month later I am getting an F5E3 LID UNLOCK FAULT & F7E5 SHIFTER FAULT code.
@@bensappliancesandjunk we had a flood a week before, it turns out that we had a that the motor corroded, the shifter corroded & the capacitor went bad. It was going to take a week to get all the parts, & cost $400. Found the same model @ lowes, (labor day sale) delivered the next day for $509.
@kidkaras whatever it was, sadly it won't spin now and keeps faulting, so I have to do a deeper dive. I did the spin test and it did spin. But I stopped there, took out the pillows and still not able to spin
thank you for your reply! I just ordered the actuator. Mine goes through the whole wash cycle but won't spin. ill find out Thursday if that the issue.@@coviedogs
@coviedogs it was the actuator! I ordered the part from walmart, and it said factory part, whereas Amazon had knockoffs with people complaining the part died after a month. I think it cost 35.00. With return option. My machine would go through the whole cycle drain but not spin. The actuator solved it. Also, remember to re calabrate the machine to recognize the new part. The above video is excellent. Good luck!
This video is absurdly helpful. My washer won't spin. What I'm finding on my washer is that I have lots of resistance trying to manually turn the spinner whether that's putting my hand inside the washer or tipping the washer back and pulling on the belt. I've already removed the shifting actuator. Either way, it's quite difficult. Any insight? I'll update if I find anything.
I just want to know how to get my Whirlpool non agitator washing machine to drain and spin WITHOUT adding more freaking water. I pick drain and spin, it IMMEDIATELY starts adding water. It’s so frustrating. Just spin like the old washers used to!!
Wow what a great video!! Thank you so much for taking the time to make all these videos. Now maybe I can figure out why my Whirlpool Washer isn't spinning.
A meter with capacitance test is handy for capacitors, as they can reduce in value over time while still working. That results in a progressively weaker motor torque.
Get your gold chain wrapped up in manual test mode and tear the floor up while getting out of the drain pan...and throw the machine down a remote canyon.
Hi Ben and thanks for an excellent video. I have the same model you are working on. My issue is that it is not agitating. Everything else works fine but agitation is not working. It looks like it wants to work. I have tried manually and it feels very loose and the bolt that holds the agitator is very tightened. What do you think could be the problem?
@bensappliancesandjunk Still getting F7E1 code after replacing shifter. While in manual mode machine agitates fine. Spin tests will run/spin for 30 secs or so then stop. lights start flashing for whatever mode its in. (Low or high spin) any help would be greatly appreciated
Awesome video! Thank you! I've got a situation where the washer won't spin or agitate at all, even in forced spin while in diagnostic mode. I've replaced the actuator, tested the motor for resistance (passed, average 6.2 ohms), tested the capacitor (passed as you described in video), and checked the gear assembly. I can manually rotate the drum by moving the belt so I know it's not the belt being too loose. When I put it in forced spin mode all that happens is I hear a consistent electrical humming. When I put it in forced agitation mode, it hums in time with the agitation cycle (hum, pause, hum, pause etc). So it's like the washer is telling the motor to turn the drum, but the motor is not rotating at all. Is this a bad motor?
Hi Ben, thanks for your video. I have a toploaded Whirlpool washer that washes, drains, but does not spin.. I have gone through the analysis and get a 4-2 error. Running the machine in manual test mode the two agitation modes work and the high speed spin.. But the low speed spin does not start.. All lights flash once and then it is back to the two lights for the low spin.. Any idea what could be issue? I am thinking of replacing the actuator.. But wondering if that is the issue, since the machine does drain.. Thanks for any input.
Ben, your videos are great! My machine will not spin, the basket is completely stuck. In manually mode agitate works but the spin does not, Even trying to spin the basket by hand is stuck. Any suggestions?
The basket is stuck? Hmm. I'd check underneath where the pulley assembly is. A few years ago, we had this SUPER NICE Maytag Commercial machine JUST ouside of warranty that was sold to us for $25. We got it, ran the same tests you did, and found the basket was stuck. Got underneath, and found out that a squirrel had stored about 3 bags of peanuts where the pulley assembly was. 5 minutes later, and the machine was running like new!
I went into diagnostic mode and went for manually toggling between the various cycles.. the fill drain stuff all worked fine but the motor functions didn't work. No rinse or agitate but I did hear some oddball sounds. I have to run it again as I've gained some new knowledge since first running the test. The drum from the top view looks good. (removed checked that out). I have since replaced a cap on the pcb and checked motor cap under the machine.. now I'm getting into the shifter and motor diagnostics. (fault code threw me a motor control fault). Please clarify the pins on the motor to test. Perhaps i must reference the manual. This thing read like chinese the first time i looked at it but more things coming into focus as I stick to it. This thing has become an obsession I refuse to give up. I know people trash talk these machines but the fact is it ran flawless for about 8 years.
I’m glad I’ve never had the audacity to buy one of those new POS machines. HE corrupted the industry in 2010, I haven’t never thought about a new washer since. Love my 90s Whirlpool DirectDrive. Bada$$ tough and durable machine, no new washer sold on the market today or within last decade can agitate and turn a load over as quickly and powerfully as a directdrive. Other than the good old classic Speed Queen of course, but we’re speaking about these horrendous new HE machines that will never last and has those ridiculous wash plates.
Just bought a used one to replace my horrible Maytag Bravos. Three years old and shaking uncontrollably on spin even after changing suspension rods. Wish me luck
@@magskomlosi6665 I think our whirlpool cabrio was too? I’m not sure, but I’m glad to not have an HE washer anymore. The new direct driven motors and stuff in some new washers that companies brag about will never be anything like what whirlpool sold for 30 years and will not last nor provide the same performance unfortunately but yeah your right there are other direct driven systems out there that are less known
Howdy Ben, I'm doing this to the same model. The upgrade kit. I'm worried the rust just below the splines on the shaft will stain clothes. Can/should I sand and paint it before installing the upgrade? Or do you have other suggestions?
That or use some CLR and run that through a standard hot wash. Should help remove all of that to prevent rust and other gunk from getting on the clothes.
Hey Ben! I have watched all of your videos and my model washer is ALMOST exact to what you have in this video. SO my room mate overfilled our washer with bulky blankets and it was just stuck when I got home. SO I tried removing the blankets and the water to start over with a normal load. So it would get through each step but it is acting really weird. Like after it began washing it drained and spun out while in the washing step, then the light moved to rinse and started filling with water then drained and spun and did that ANOTHER time while still in rinse, then it finally lit up saying it was in spin BUT THEN started filling with water again and then did another drain and spin AND THEN it filled with water for the last time while in the spin cycle and then just stopped, the red done light lit up while filled with water and it started doing that weird whirring noise that it does when its in that "flood/emergency mode" this is like the 4th time it has done this. I get to the point where i empty all the water out bc I cant just get it to drain and spin. And then I will leave it unplugged for a week and try again but its the same result everytime. I did do some troubleshooting. and removed the drain and cleaned it and made sure the screen wasnt clogged. Do you have any recommendations?
@@bensappliancesandjunk I am getting scared now that it is the control board that needs to be replaced...which looks to be the most expensive repair. It sucks bc b4 the washer was over loaded it was running awesome. and I guess I dont get how It went through the whole washing cycle but at the end after it did the "final" spin it filled with water and then just sat there doing that whirring noise. I know I can fix it...I just dont know which part to replace first
Thank you for your guidance. However, when I got to the manual mode and test for spin, all I heard is a humming sound but no spin. Do you have any idea why? I replaced the speed sensor already.
I think mine is the suspension rod problem that you recommended. It sounds like the thing is just dribbling basketball is back and forth. Do you have a video that further explains?
I tested my actuator and I get OL on the pins mentioned in the video...But I get the correct Ohms when I test the same pins with the opposite colors. Video shows red on top and black on bottom pin. Is this correct?
Ben, my newer-model Whirlpool washer's drum is still banging profusely in the spin mode. I have replaced the suspension rods and the gear hub beneath the agitator plate. Can you suggest what else can be tried to eliminate the banging?
@@bensappliancesandjunkBen, my Whirlpool washer is not the exact one you use in your video on the gear-hub replacement, but it's nearly identical. Any suggestion you can offer on what can be done to stop the washer's vehement banging in the spin cycle would be really useful. I am at wit's end with this problem. As stated in my earlier message, the suspension rods and gear hub are brand-new.
I tested my actuator and I get OL on the pins he says but the correct Ohms on the opposite side. I even bought a new one and got the same readings. Could it be the wiring is different on mine even though I have the same part in the video?
Good morning! My most recent results - I can no longer get it to run in spin during the manual test mode. It tries hard to go into the spin mode and makes 4 or 5 loud "hurump" sounds and then quits. Does that sound like a motor problem? The unit is 3 years old and I hate to dump it. Thanks!
I'd check everything underneath by hand to see if there's anything obstructing it from spinning. I'd then look at capacitor, then ohm out the motor to see whats going on. Eliminate each part in the chain for the spin mode, and you SHOULD find whats wrong.
It’s very likely that your basket hub teeth are stripped. The basket hub attaches to the bottom of the inner tub, under the wash plate or agitator. The easiest way to diagnose is, with the machine off, to reach inside and give the wash plate or agitator a spin. If it spins independently of the tub, then the teeth on your basket hub are stripped. Getting to the hub involves removing the wash plate first - this can prove quite difficult. Good luck!
This was fantastic. My issue is that the machine is locked. I got an F7E1 error. I cannot manually turn the actuator. I cannot move the belt manually. I was able to change the lid switch so that I could even get it into diagnostics mode. The spin test wouldn't make it spin either. Any ideas?
interesting, I'm surprised the lid switch needed to be replaced(?) I wouldn't think a lid switch would be a part that's prone to failure. Either way, I might try that, thanks for sharing the info!
HELP! My washer won't spin. Ran calibration 3 dozen times +. No change. Checked how level it is. All looks good. Replaced actuator. Same issues persist. Removed the belt and gears as advised, clean with no damage found. Tried forced manual spin mode diagnostic. Agitator spun shortly, then nothing. Never a full spin. Sporadic. Worked completely, all cycles for a few loads for no reason after not working for a few days. Then stopped and returned to nothing, What's the problem? Any ideas?? Thanks for any help.
We just got a used Whirlpool Model wtw5000dw2 and we love it but would like to turn on an alarm for end of the wash cycle. The does not tell you anything but we were wondering there is some code to do it? If not can we add one some how?
Quick question: My washer will drain & spin if I put it on Drain & Spin manually. It skips Drain & Spin during the automatic cycle. So you have to run the washer twice. Once through normal washing, then again on Drain & Spin Only mode. Heard of this?
The basket hub was replaced about 6 months ago. The agitator spins with the basket. The capacitor and motor is OK. I'm thinking something like the transmission. It is fine for a manufacturer to guarantee a part for 10 years, but still expensive to install. Thanks for the input!
Hi Sir, your videos are very useful, but after doing the calibration it will work but it will stop again with spin, and there is a ticking sound. Can you please help me
question, noticed in your video on spin that the inner basket moves back and forth inside the drum, is that normal? I have a Maytag Commercial technology, very similar to the centenial and the inner basket moves pretty freely inside the drum.
Having an issue where this exact model will not spin, replaced the acuator and still not spinning. Getting the suds and speed sensor fault. Any ideas?!?
My teenage son emptied half bottle of laundry detergent in my washer as this exact one in the video it was working great no problems but after he did that, it started giving problems it's letting out the water and not washing. After I filled it manually and left it there after 2 hrs I heard it washing then after the wash cycle it drained out the water went into rinse but did not fill to drain. When I start the cycle all over to rinse and spin it still did nothing.
My GE washer that looked like your washer wouldn’t spin, always off balance. After getting new one, hubby took old washer outside, turned it over and found oil all over the motor, some other round thing and the belt. Could this have been the transmission leaking and not wanting to spin???
My whirlpool washer will spin 1 to 2 seconds 3 to 4 times in succession. I performed the manual test-same thing. Auto test reveals no codes. What would cause this issue?
I moved the arm under the washer, not the part. It started spinning again. This was after I changed the capacitor, shift actuator, and lid lock. The shift actuator wasn’t shifting the washer. I put the old one back on, and the washer went in to spin.
18:15 you can also put your meter into current mode, and use its probes to safely discharge the capacitor. If your multimeter has a built-in LCR or capacitance meter, you can get a more accurate reading of the capacitance that way. Even though the capacitor seems ok using the simple test described in the video, it might have lost capacitance over time due to aging and to self-healing to the extent it's no longer able to start the motor successfully, but is still able to pass the test. Cheerio!
Absolutely hell no, current mode is not meant for capacitor discharging. That’s a great way to blow up your meter and hands if it’s a big enough cap as you effectively turn your probes into a dead short (fused usually, but some people also like aluminum foil on fuses as a good tip)🤦♂️
I had trouble with my washer not staying on spin. After checking out the usual’s, I removed the wash plate and found 84 dimes beneath it in the drain holes. Problem solved.
To discharge that particular capacitor before testing use two screwdriver. Each one touching the seperate prongs then cross the screwdrivers to have the metal touch. On that capacitor the plastic housing stops you from simply laying the driver across.
Any ideas on a Whirlpool (model: WTW4915EW2) that doesn’t spin? The agitator spins but the tub does not. We have replaced the washer hub and the actuator and it’s still not working. The clothes comes out sopping wet. It doesn’t spin the clothes dry.
I have followed everything you suggested in my Whirlpool will not move past the wash cycle even when I unplug it and plug it back in it does not make the reset noise
Ben, I had the grinding issue and I replaced the actuator and the splutch. It worked for about a week then did the same thing. I replaced the actuator again and still has the grinding when it attempts to agitate. It spins fine. Not sure what direction to go. Any advice?
Actually it doesn't spin under manual test and the lid lock light won't come on for the manual spin test but it does come on other times such as drail test..
@@snookupfishing8612 can you cycle the lid lock on/off in manual test by itself? Some of these you have to do the manual lid lock, then spin test. If the lid lock isn't functioning right, its either the lid lock itself, or the capacitor on the board that handles the lid lock. On pre-2017 models, its a 1000uf / 6.3v cap that is notorious for going bad.
@@bensappliancesandjunk I can cycle the lock on and off during test. This is a pesky one. It won't lock when I start the spin test but works during the lock test.... Making me crazy🤯
Check for micro farads on the capacitor the plastic casing normally will tell you the range that it should be at. It will provide a more accurate test.
Sir. You are EXACTLY what the internet inventors had in mind for it's purpose. You are a necessity. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!!
You mean they didn't invent the internet for free porn.
@@BillMurry-xx5soLMMFAO, like that’s NEW news hahahahahaha lol😂😂😂
As a former washer tech, I find your video the best I’ve found on You tube. You are a valuable asset to the public! Thanks! I will continue to watch your videos in the future😁
Hi Nancy, As a former washer tech do you have any suggestions on where someone like me who has no experience can go get technical training to fix washers and dryers?
@ a trade school unless a small appliance business might want to train you.
@@nancykampscook5196Thank you
You have saved my hair loss issues. Lol. I stopped repairing appliances about 15 years ago due to family and new job. Just starting to get back into it and with the addition of electronics, I’ve spent hours scratching my head with various issues that are in this video. I have a stack of these machines in my shop waiting for repairs so I can resell them. I can literally get 5 to 10 a week where people have tossed them. Now, thanks to you I can do the proper diagnostics instead of doing the old parts change and see method. I can’t tell you how much I appreciate this video. I’m sure you put a lot of thought and effort in it. Thank you a million times.
Awesome! I pray your business goes great! You could also help answer questions in the comments here! They should make it where you can tip comments. ❤😊❤
Remember, back in the day, you just press start and stuff worked.
sir you have fixed my washer.. I have this model without the agitator.. from finding the manual to running diagnostics this video led to replacing the actuator which fixed the issue, I didn't even need the manual thanks to your understandable how to.. part for $25 and two hours total and it's gold! thanks so much..
Aweseome! So what was the washer doing/not doing before you replaced the shifter-actuator(?)
In 20 minutes I went from hating my washing machine to being excited about diagnostic and manual mode. Thank you for pulling back the veil
This is a superior tutorial, worth watching all the way through. He explains valuable info I didn't even know I needed to know.
You sir are a hero and a life saver!!! Watched your videos on whirlpool washing machine and was able to diagnose/find the problem. $40 fix compared to $300 for someone to come look at it
This is a very helpful and easy to understand video. Why would they hide the manual like that? Here's a tip for washing machine dummies like me. If your washer has stopped spinning, take the wet clothes out first! When I finally did that it turned out a long sleeve had gotten wrapped around the thing in the middle and was stuck, causing it not to spin. Once I managed to get the sleeve unstuck the machine was able to spin again. I felt so stupid for not checking that first!
.
O
It's a shame they took a good washing machines that work good for years without a bit of problem, put computers in them and don't wash half as good
I agree with you. We have had nothing but problems with piece of...
Aint globalism grand??
Profit over everything
I know I buy the older kind.. they are easy to fix!!
Yep
2:40 Thank you Ben!! I'm a little old lady but this worked perfectly to get my washer going again. xoxoxo SO APPREciated! Thank you!
Your videos have been very helpful, thank you very much. My shift actuator is shot, just ordered a new one from you. Without your videos I would not have known what to do, thank-you.
👍
Thanks so much! Using your video I went from knowing nothing about how my washer worked to being able to diagnose the failure of the washing tub's ability to spin. I removed the washer hub and found that the spines were completely worn away. I ordered a replacement from Ben's Appliances and Junk and it worked perfectly. After installing and recalibrating, I put it back into test mode and tried the high spin, and WHIIIIIRL! It spins so fast now.
That's has Ben's junk now.
Well done. The service manual can be reached from underneath without removing the top. The lid lock latch can be removed from the lid and inserted into the lock so you can open the lid to see what is happening. Safer doing it this way vs having the top tipped back. Overall, very good video. Best I've seen. The Tech Sheet shows power to the shifter motor is Pin 3 and Pin 6 for the black shifter, like you said. But the way you are holding it, those pins are on the opposite side that you tested for motor continuity. Note that pin numbers are molded into the male connector.
No pin numbers on my machine -- male or female
I got the exact same code on my whirlpool washer. While replacing the shifter, I found a mouse nest preventing the check eyes from reading the motor speed. Cleaned out the nest and bingo! Thanks for your help. I couldn't have done it without you!
So this video is super helpful. But before you take your machine apart like I did, check your drain hose. My washer was just fine after I unclogged the hose. Some spinning issues, turns out, come from improper drainage. Works like a champ now. This video is definitely a $$$ saver if you have a piece that has broken
Definitely the best detailed diagnostics video on Whirlpool washer
Following your instructions I was able to get into the diagnostic mode. I then did the reset. The washer went into the spin cycle and ran for about 10 minutes. It was noisier than usual and made me think that maybe I hadn't tighten something good enough. Anyway it did spin so I think I can assume the motor is OK. Thanks again for the great videos.
Roaring, could be the gearbox
Hey your video got me farther then any other video on Whirlpool washers Iam right in the middle of fixing my washer I had to change lid lock and actuator… you explained things so calm and easy I appreciate you bro more then u could imagine at the moment 😂
What was the washer doing/not doing, before you replaced the lid lock and actuator?
My Maytag washer is about 3 years old. I replaced the clutch assembly and the actuator. It still won't go into the spin cycle. I did not reset the washer. I will try to now.
I am working on the diagnostics. What a great video! Jack Willey
Capacitor check, motor or main board
Well done tutorial, one of the best instructional videos I have seen. Thanks!
Hi Ben,
I had this issue, spinning but no agitation, realized actuator arm was broken. Put a new one in last week. All else looked good. Recalibrated, worked for 3-4 loads then no spinning and no agitation. Just humming now. Check actuator and it was working fine. Pulled capacitor and it was bad, not holding charge. Put a new oem one in. Calibrated machine and motor still just humming. If I spin the drum I can get it to spin and//or agitate by starting turning drum or agitator manually to get it going. Pulled capacitor, it went blew again. Checked all wiring to motor, to actuator, to capacitor- all is to spec. Motor spins without issue when belt pulled off. Getting F7-E1 fault (well now new capacitor is shot).
Pulled trans, everything spins free and appears to be in good working order.
No idea where to go from here. It’s been about 10-11 days with this thing trying to figure it out.
Any thoughts- I think bad motor. Even though I cannot seem to find anything wrong with it.
Thank you, kind sir. You have just saved my marriage.
This is great information. I have not had good luck with these washers though. I've been through two and my son has been through one just in a few short years
This is someone I would trust to make the problem go away.
Help. Very helpful, I used this video to determine that it the shifter needed replacing, now a month later I am getting an F5E3 LID UNLOCK FAULT & F7E5 SHIFTER FAULT code.
Did you recalibrate the shifter? Otherwise, sounds like a lid lock issue. I'd at a minimum recalibrate it immediately.
@@bensappliancesandjunk we had a flood a week before, it turns out that we had a that the motor corroded, the shifter corroded & the capacitor went bad. It was going to take a week to get all the parts, & cost $400. Found the same model @ lowes, (labor day sale) delivered the next day for $509.
Your videos helped me tremendously. Saved a whole bunch of money fixing my washer. Thank you so much!
🎯👍
I replaced my clutch pack assembly and shift actuator, it’s working well but now it’s squeeky when spinning,
Did I have to add grease or lube?
This worked for me!! Problem found and solved!!! $32 part vs who knows what if I had to call someone or $500 for a new washer
Wow great instructionsl video. I tried to wash a coiple of pillows and faulted my washer. Fixed now! Thank you!
I did the same! Stupid pillows! Was it the actuator?
@kidkaras whatever it was, sadly it won't spin now and keeps faulting, so I have to do a deeper dive. I did the spin test and it did spin. But I stopped there, took out the pillows and still not able to spin
thank you for your reply! I just ordered the actuator. Mine goes through the whole wash cycle but won't spin. ill find out Thursday if that the issue.@@coviedogs
@kidkaras i hope it does! It would be great to hear back from you too! Thanks!
@coviedogs it was the actuator! I ordered the part from walmart, and it said factory part, whereas Amazon had knockoffs with people complaining the part died after a month. I think it cost 35.00. With return option. My machine would go through the whole cycle drain but not spin. The actuator solved it. Also, remember to re calabrate the machine to recognize the new part. The above video is excellent. Good luck!
Excellent video. You helped me out tonight! Washer fixed in 5 minutes thanks to you.
What was wrong
This video is absurdly helpful. My washer won't spin. What I'm finding on my washer is that I have lots of resistance trying to manually turn the spinner whether that's putting my hand inside the washer or tipping the washer back and pulling on the belt. I've already removed the shifting actuator. Either way, it's quite difficult. Any insight? I'll update if I find anything.
Figure it out?
@@CumminsTurbo4 Gave the washer to my neighbor and then bought speedqueens
@@fife6215 brilliant. Almost there myself. You vote with your dollar. And whirlpool needs punishes for their stupid decisions to offer junk
I just want to know how to get my Whirlpool non agitator washing machine to drain and spin WITHOUT adding more freaking water. I pick drain and spin, it IMMEDIATELY starts adding water. It’s so frustrating. Just spin like the old washers used to!!
Right I don't understand that either.. dumb
This is my current issue. It will eventually drain all water just will not SPIN
That’s what the error codes are for.
I like my plain ole estate by whirlpool washer. No fancy diagnostics. Just straight forward old tech.
I'm hanging on to my pre-circuit board appliances as long as I can since I almost never need to fix them.
😂 the good old days. When you plug it in and push start and it works.
Wow what a great video!! Thank you so much for taking the time to make all these videos. Now maybe I can figure out why my Whirlpool Washer isn't spinning.
Same here, mine gets to rinse and spin and don’t engage
Anyone find a fix for the no-spin issue?
A meter with capacitance test is handy for capacitors, as they can reduce in value over time while still working. That results in a progressively weaker motor torque.
The cap on my whirlpool is reading just under the 5% range...41.xx uF on my meter. It's a 45 uF cap. says +/- 5%. Replace?
@kennethdante no that should be ok.
Count codes as dogs barking,kids screaming and moms scream them and You😅😅😅
Get your gold chain wrapped up in manual test mode and tear the floor up while getting out of the drain pan...and throw the machine down a remote canyon.
@@elvatoandylow volts rewire house and contact power company.
Super thorough and so easy to follow!!!! Fantastic tutorial!!!!
Any engineer that had part in designing this washer should be fired.
So God damn terrible
I bought this washer for $250 like 4 or 5 yrs ago still runs great as this was new when I got it. Can't find no washer for this price no more😁
You deserve a noble peace medal. Thanks you
Awesome video. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge in such a concise and clear manner.
Hi Ben and thanks for an excellent video. I have the same model you are working on. My issue is that it is not agitating. Everything else works fine but agitation is not working. It looks like it wants to work. I have tried manually and it feels very loose and the bolt that holds the agitator is very tightened. What do you think could be the problem?
This helped me fix my parents washer. The shifting actuator was bad, and i replaced it. Thanks alot!!!
Interesting, so what was the actual issue with the washer, that the shift actuator fixed?
Your videos are very helpful. Very well explained. Thank you. Keep this energy up.
Thanks!
@bensappliancesandjunk Still getting F7E1 code after replacing shifter. While in manual mode machine agitates fine. Spin tests will run/spin for 30 secs or so then stop. lights start flashing for whatever mode its in. (Low or high spin) any help would be greatly appreciated
Thank you so much for the information you share in your videos, you saved me a lot of money and time, now my washer it’s working like new!
Awesome video! Thank you!
I've got a situation where the washer won't spin or agitate at all, even in forced spin while in diagnostic mode.
I've replaced the actuator, tested the motor for resistance (passed, average 6.2 ohms), tested the capacitor (passed as you described in video), and checked the gear assembly. I can manually rotate the drum by moving the belt so I know it's not the belt being too loose.
When I put it in forced spin mode all that happens is I hear a consistent electrical humming. When I put it in forced agitation mode, it hums in time with the agitation cycle (hum, pause, hum, pause etc).
So it's like the washer is telling the motor to turn the drum, but the motor is not rotating at all.
Is this a bad motor?
I have same issue. Did you discover what it is?
Wish he would answer this. I think I have the same problem. ❤❤❤
@@speaklifegardenhomesteadpe8783 I replaced the capacitor and it fixed it.
Same issue
Hi Ben, thanks for your video. I have a toploaded Whirlpool washer that washes, drains, but does not spin.. I have gone through the analysis and get a 4-2 error. Running the machine in manual test mode the two agitation modes work and the high speed spin.. But the low speed spin does not start.. All lights flash once and then it is back to the two lights for the low spin.. Any idea what could be issue? I am thinking of replacing the actuator.. But wondering if that is the issue, since the machine does drain.. Thanks for any input.
Ben, your videos are great! My machine will not spin, the basket is completely stuck. In manually mode agitate works but the spin does not, Even trying to spin the basket by hand is stuck. Any suggestions?
The basket is stuck? Hmm. I'd check underneath where the pulley assembly is. A few years ago, we had this SUPER NICE Maytag Commercial machine JUST ouside of warranty that was sold to us for $25. We got it, ran the same tests you did, and found the basket was stuck. Got underneath, and found out that a squirrel had stored about 3 bags of peanuts where the pulley assembly was. 5 minutes later, and the machine was running like new!
I went into diagnostic mode and went for manually toggling between the various cycles.. the fill drain stuff all worked fine but the motor functions didn't work. No rinse or agitate but I did hear some oddball sounds. I have to run it again as I've gained some new knowledge since first running the test. The drum from the top view looks good. (removed checked that out). I have since replaced a cap on the pcb and checked motor cap under the machine.. now I'm getting into the shifter and motor diagnostics. (fault code threw me a motor control fault). Please clarify the pins on the motor to test. Perhaps i must reference the manual. This thing read like chinese the first time i looked at it but more things coming into focus as I stick to it. This thing has become an obsession I refuse to give up. I know people trash talk these machines but the fact is it ran flawless for about 8 years.
Good to know! Were you able to fix it? If so, can you share all the things you did to get it running again/ty
Can the bearing and shaft be replaced on this machine
or does the whole gear box have to be changed?
thanks
Thanks!
I’m glad I’ve never had the audacity to buy one of those new POS machines. HE corrupted the industry in 2010, I haven’t never thought about a new washer since. Love my 90s Whirlpool DirectDrive. Bada$$ tough and durable machine, no new washer sold on the market today or within last decade can agitate and turn a load over as quickly and powerfully as a directdrive. Other than the good old classic Speed Queen of course, but we’re speaking about these horrendous new HE machines that will never last and has those ridiculous wash plates.
Just bought a used one to replace my horrible Maytag Bravos. Three years old and shaking uncontrollably on spin even after changing suspension rods. Wish me luck
I have this machine and it's absolute trash. Should have kept my 90s set that came with the house we bought 🥴
HE are direct drive btw , the older machines are belt driven..
@@magskomlosi6665 I think our whirlpool cabrio was too? I’m not sure, but I’m glad to not have an HE washer anymore. The new direct driven motors and stuff in some new washers that companies brag about will never be anything like what whirlpool sold for 30 years and will not last nor provide the same performance unfortunately but yeah your right there are other direct driven systems out there that are less known
This I think will definitely be helpful for me! Thanks you for your detailed work!
Ben, you're an angel! Keep on with these great instructional videos. Are new commercial machines as seen in laundromats as finicky?
No, they're great and built to last. Still will have issues with, say, bad, non-HE detergent but nothing too far difficult.
@@bensappliancesandjunk do you make house calls about an hour from you?
@@speaklifegardenhomesteadpe8783 unfortunately we do not at this time
Howdy Ben, I'm doing this to the same model. The upgrade kit. I'm worried the rust just below the splines on the shaft will stain clothes. Can/should I sand and paint it before installing the upgrade? Or do you have other suggestions?
That or use some CLR and run that through a standard hot wash. Should help remove all of that to prevent rust and other gunk from getting on the clothes.
@@bensappliancesandjunk As luck would have it I accidently dated the hub threads driving it on. Now nut won't go on. Ideas? Lol
Hi what does E1 signify on a whirlpool washer please? I'm getting this while my machine is not spin drying
Hey Ben! I have watched all of your videos and my model washer is ALMOST exact to what you have in this video. SO my room mate overfilled our washer with bulky blankets and it was just stuck when I got home. SO I tried removing the blankets and the water to start over with a normal load. So it would get through each step but it is acting really weird. Like after it began washing it drained and spun out while in the washing step, then the light moved to rinse and started filling with water then drained and spun and did that ANOTHER time while still in rinse, then it finally lit up saying it was in spin BUT THEN started filling with water again and then did another drain and spin AND THEN it filled with water for the last time while in the spin cycle and then just stopped, the red done light lit up while filled with water and it started doing that weird whirring noise that it does when its in that "flood/emergency mode" this is like the 4th time it has done this. I get to the point where i empty all the water out bc I cant just get it to drain and spin. And then I will leave it unplugged for a week and try again but its the same result everytime. I did do some troubleshooting. and removed the drain and cleaned it and made sure the screen wasnt clogged. Do you have any recommendations?
Can you run error codes on it?
@@bensappliancesandjunk no I cannot get it to go into the calibration/test mode. I have tried following the steps many times
@@bensappliancesandjunk I am getting scared now that it is the control board that needs to be replaced...which looks to be the most expensive repair. It sucks bc b4 the washer was over loaded it was running awesome. and I guess I dont get how It went through the whole washing cycle but at the end after it did the "final" spin it filled with water and then just sat there doing that whirring noise. I know I can fix it...I just dont know which part to replace first
which 2 pins u test for the red actuator?
Thank you for your guidance. However, when I got to the manual mode and test for spin, all I heard is a humming sound but no spin. Do you have any idea why? I replaced the speed sensor already.
Mine turned out to be the capacitor.
Did you find a fix
This video save the day, thanks a lot. Really helpful!
I think mine is the suspension rod problem that you recommended. It sounds like the thing is just dribbling basketball is back and forth. Do you have a video that further explains?
Great, all-inclusive troubleshooting/test vid! THX!
Thank you sir for showing this video how to fix the problem. My washer is fixed now 👍🏽. 2022
Saved my A$$ today man , thanks a million for making these vids
I tested my actuator and I get OL on the pins mentioned in the video...But I get the correct Ohms when I test the same pins with the opposite colors. Video shows red on top and black on bottom pin. Is this correct?
Ben, my newer-model Whirlpool washer's drum is still banging profusely in the spin mode. I have replaced the suspension rods and the gear hub beneath the agitator plate. Can you suggest what else can be tried to eliminate the banging?
I have a product coming out for that when the tub itself is responsible for the issue
@@bensappliancesandjunk Would recalibrating the machine solve the problem? Thank you for replying to my previous question. You're a decent fellow.
@@bensappliancesandjunkBen, my Whirlpool washer is not the exact one you use in your video on the gear-hub replacement, but it's nearly identical. Any suggestion you can offer on what can be done to stop the washer's vehement banging in the spin cycle would be really useful. I am at wit's end with this problem. As stated in my earlier message, the suspension rods and gear hub are brand-new.
The uniform is a nice touch
I tested my actuator and I get OL on the pins he says but the correct Ohms on the opposite side. I even bought a new one and got the same readings. Could it be the wiring is different on mine even though I have the same part in the video?
I am experiencing the same thing. What ended up happening?
@christopherott3710
I am experiencing the same thing. What ended up happening?
Good morning! My most recent results - I can no longer get it to run in spin during the manual test mode. It tries hard to go into the spin mode and makes 4 or 5 loud "hurump" sounds and then quits. Does that sound like a motor problem? The unit is 3 years old and I hate to dump it. Thanks!
I'd check everything underneath by hand to see if there's anything obstructing it from spinning. I'd then look at capacitor, then ohm out the motor to see whats going on. Eliminate each part in the chain for the spin mode, and you SHOULD find whats wrong.
It’s very likely that your basket hub teeth are stripped. The basket hub attaches to the bottom of the inner tub, under the wash plate or agitator. The easiest way to diagnose is, with the machine off, to reach inside and give the wash plate or agitator a spin. If it spins independently of the tub, then the teeth on your basket hub are stripped. Getting to the hub involves removing the wash plate first - this can prove quite difficult. Good luck!
This was fantastic. My issue is that the machine is locked. I got an F7E1 error. I cannot manually turn the actuator. I cannot move the belt manually. I was able to change the lid switch so that I could even get it into diagnostics mode. The spin test wouldn't make it spin either. Any ideas?
Any updates?
interesting, I'm surprised the lid switch needed to be replaced(?) I wouldn't think a lid switch would be a part that's prone to failure. Either way, I might try that, thanks for sharing the info!
Brilliant video. I thank you for adding to my knowledge.
HELP!
My washer won't spin.
Ran calibration 3 dozen times +. No change. Checked how level it is. All looks good.
Replaced actuator. Same issues persist.
Removed the belt and gears as advised, clean with no damage found.
Tried forced manual spin mode diagnostic.
Agitator spun shortly, then nothing. Never a full spin.
Sporadic.
Worked completely, all cycles for a few loads for no reason after not working for a few days. Then stopped and returned to nothing,
What's the problem? Any ideas?? Thanks for any help.
Same exact issue
@@lisathomas5917 it's in the landfill. Waaaay too much time wasted. Last Whirlpool for me.
We just got a used Whirlpool Model wtw5000dw2 and we love it but would like to turn on an alarm for end of the wash cycle. The does not tell you anything but we were wondering there is some code to do it? If not can we add one some how?
Thank you for all the information, and information on where to buy the parts it really helps..
Quick question: My washer will drain & spin if I put it on Drain & Spin manually.
It skips Drain & Spin during the automatic cycle. So you have to run the washer twice. Once through normal washing, then again on Drain & Spin Only mode.
Heard of this?
Mine does the same thing - I replaced the shift actuator. Worked for about a day and reverted to the same issue.
@@jody62 Uncanny timing for your reply. I just had mine replaced today. We'll see if my fix sticks longer than yours
Thank you for this video! I have this washer and having problems with mine spinning and making awful noises
our whirlpool has the slow spin non cleaning symptom too but it is all touch button. how do I diagnose that model. about 5 years old with glass lid.
The basket hub was replaced about 6 months ago. The agitator spins with the basket. The capacitor and motor is OK. I'm thinking something like the transmission. It is fine for a manufacturer to guarantee a part for 10 years, but still expensive to install. Thanks for the input!
If it is roaring, its that gear case
Hi Sir, your videos are very useful, but after doing the calibration it will work but it will stop again with spin, and there is a ticking sound. Can you please help me
question, noticed in your video on spin that the inner basket moves back and forth inside the drum, is that normal? I have a Maytag Commercial technology, very similar to the centenial and the inner basket moves pretty freely inside the drum.
Great informative video saved me money 💰
Having an issue where this exact model will not spin, replaced the acuator and still not spinning. Getting the suds and speed sensor fault. Any ideas?!?
My teenage son emptied half bottle of laundry detergent in my washer as this exact one in the video it was working great no problems but after he did that, it started giving problems it's letting out the water and not washing. After I filled it manually and left it there after 2 hrs I heard it washing then after the wash cycle it drained out the water went into rinse but did not fill to drain. When I start the cycle all over to rinse and spin it still did nothing.
Check the error codes and see whats happening
My GE washer that looked like your washer wouldn’t spin, always off balance. After getting new one, hubby took old washer outside, turned it over and found oil all over the motor, some other round thing and the belt. Could this have been the transmission leaking and not wanting to spin???
Hello mine looks like this on the bottom but it looks like the new kinds on the top and it shows a f7e4 code what does that mean?
I have one of the brand new 2-in-1 washers it runs fine except that the lid lock engages once unlocks and then the locks back again is this normal ?
My whirlpool washer will spin 1 to 2 seconds 3 to 4 times in succession. I performed the manual test-same thing. Auto test reveals no codes. What would cause this issue?
MAYBE the capacitor. Check for phyiscal damage to it.
Ok thanks....I'll check it. Just a strange problem that I've not seen before.
Hey I have a question, my machine is the same one as yours, it broke the spin like totally came out how to fix it?
I finally cleared the board and the washer too off, I just didn't reset it correctly. Thanks
Does anyone know where I can get a new replacement drive motor selling 10623547 rev. A & what is the difference for the rev. C?
I moved the arm under the washer, not the part. It started spinning again. This was after I changed the capacitor, shift actuator, and lid lock. The shift actuator wasn’t shifting the washer. I put the old one back on, and the washer went in to spin.
What arm?
18:15 you can also put your meter into current mode, and use its probes to safely discharge the capacitor.
If your multimeter has a built-in LCR or capacitance meter, you can get a more accurate reading of the capacitance that way. Even though the capacitor seems ok using the simple test described in the video, it might have lost capacitance over time due to aging and to self-healing to the extent it's no longer able to start the motor successfully, but is still able to pass the test.
Cheerio!
Absolutely hell no, current mode is not meant for capacitor discharging. That’s a great way to blow up your meter and hands if it’s a big enough cap as you effectively turn your probes into a dead short (fused usually, but some people also like aluminum foil on fuses as a good tip)🤦♂️
I had trouble with my washer not staying on spin. After checking out the usual’s, I removed the wash plate and found 84 dimes beneath it in the drain holes. Problem solved.
To discharge that particular capacitor before testing use two screwdriver. Each one touching the seperate prongs then cross the screwdrivers to have the metal touch. On that capacitor the plastic housing stops you from simply laying the driver across.
Any ideas on a Whirlpool (model: WTW4915EW2) that doesn’t spin? The agitator spins but the tub does not. We have replaced the washer hub and the actuator and it’s still not working. The clothes comes out sopping wet. It doesn’t spin the clothes dry.
I have followed everything you suggested in my Whirlpool will not move past the wash cycle even when I unplug it and plug it back in it does not make the reset noise
Ben, I had the grinding issue and I replaced the actuator and the splutch. It worked for about a week then did the same thing. I replaced the actuator again and still has the grinding when it attempts to agitate. It spins fine. Not sure what direction to go. Any advice?
Does it have a wash plate? I'd check the hub.
Actually it doesn't spin under manual test and the lid lock light won't come on for the manual spin test but it does come on other times such as drail test..
What is a wash plate?
@@snookupfishing8612 can you cycle the lid lock on/off in manual test by itself? Some of these you have to do the manual lid lock, then spin test. If the lid lock isn't functioning right, its either the lid lock itself, or the capacitor on the board that handles the lid lock. On pre-2017 models, its a 1000uf / 6.3v cap that is notorious for going bad.
@@bensappliancesandjunk I can cycle the lock on and off during test. This is a pesky one. It won't lock when I start the spin test but works during the lock test.... Making me crazy🤯
Thank you for the tutorial. Very helpful!
Check for micro farads on the capacitor the plastic casing normally will tell you the range that it should be at. It will provide a more accurate test.
Jimmity christmas 🎄 you're good!