@@tims6763 we talking walls or do ceilings matter too? I only ask because a ceiling can get as much as 18” of blown in thrown in vs a wall that may only get 3.5-5.5”. However walls normally get the closed cell on the outside sheathing or the cold side vs a ceiling will get the closed cell on the warm side.
Would love to see a video of RETRO FITTING spray foam into existing structure without having to tear off walls, which is cost prohibitive and labor intensive. Are there products that allow for filling walls thru holes and hoses?
@@spadutyflugins Condensation. The science of flash and batt is all wrong. You are relying on the SPF at 1 inch to be perfect enough to hold back the air and thermal drive. The batt won't stop it and you have NOT installed a poly vapor barrier. So the structure can have massive air leakage or condensing points via too thin of foam. Go sole source.
I’d love to see Spray Jones give advice on the best approach to small remodeling jobs that can’t justify the cost of a big rig visit. Would they recommend us using the smaller foam kits from Dap and and other manufacturers?
i have a metal building (garage/shop) here in Houston Tx, and one of the contractors is telling me 1" of closed cell is enough and some are suggesting 2" on the celling? the 1" is obviously cheaper than the others.....
Spray foam is sure something to look at. Have you discussed when It comes time to add a plug or switch outlet, or run a new circuit. What about adding on the the structure. How much extra work is needed to accomplish these tasks.
Not much. Adding a plug into an existing wall is rare, it can be done with the wall enclosed. The foam is usually not 100% of the cavity. More like 75%. People that have added told me it was easier than with batts.
A 2x4 stud wall is actually 3.5" deep so even with our walls being sprayed with 2-2.25" of closed cell foam there is still enough room to fish wires through the wall cavity if need be . A 2x6 wall is definitely no issue . It actually is easier as the wire does not get hung up in loose insulation when trying to feed it through .
1" is not enough to meet vapor barrier codes and you could very well have condensation on the inside in certain climates!!!. It seals very well that is for sure... I have been spraying foam since 1997..
I just presented to you that the SPF at 1 inch thick CAN meet the specs for vapor diffusion set forth in the code. Did you watch this part of the video? We are taking a look at what 1 inch can do, not writing a grand master spec.
Great video again. As per your suggestion I am also getting 2” Walltite sprayed directly on concrete then I’ll frame in front of it but I was thinking of putting in Roxul in the stud bays after. Hopefully you get that video out soon lol
Thank you for your feedback. The roxul is completely redundant after the 2 inch of SPF. Spend the money elsewhere unless you are being required to do this for some reason.
@@SprayJones what would you suggest? The 2” will give me approx r12-14 but I think the Ontario building code wants like r20 now. That’s almost 4” of foam. Going to make my tiny basement even smaller haha In your opinion, would the 2” be sufficient for our winters? (Eventually it will be a finished basement )
@@skyline5354 Walltite can do that at 3 inches. Offset the framing 1 inch and then install the foam. On Friday the new video will be about R value and the SPF. A great follow up to today's video.
Two questions. Does open cell of 1 inch thickness also reduce the 72% of air loss like closed does? Do you recommend using open cell on roof and closed on walls of a pole barn. I ask about the open on the roof because I've been told you don't want closed cell in rafters because its harder to spot leaks? Will the open cell then not serve as a vapor barrier against the roof deck?
I watch and really look forward to your videos. I am wondering about a diy family that built their own home and didnt put "enough closed foam" in to stop interior sweating...and had to remove it all. If it stops heat transfer 72% at 1 inch...why so much condensation? Thanks.
@@SprayJones do you think its overkill to fill an entire 6 inch studded wall with closed cell? Or would you do an inch snd then do either open cell or batts? I am framing a 30x40 second floor now with 6 inch walls and a 13 foot cathedral ceiling to the peak.
Hello, just a confimation that metal as the substrate would have an even lower number than OSB for purposes of water barrier correct? Just had my 50x80 Post Building spray with 1.5" at walls and 2" on roof direct to metal and just want ing to make sure I have a decent understanding of this even though my county requires 0 building inspections other than electrical and I have zero plans to sell/morgage this building
Like your no-nonsense fact-based approach. I'm building a Honka log home in Buena Vista, CO. For the non-log areas of the home such as the rake above the log stack and the roofing (metal), what would you use. Open or closed cell? how thick for best in class (way above code) R value? and what brand of foam? Do your recommend anyone in Chaffee County area? What about sound barrier quality between interior floors? Btw, using ICF Nudura product for the foundation. Thanks for your guidance.
Thanks for the nice breakdown here, quite comprehensive! What would be your thoughts on spraying a log home from the outside that would then be covered with siding or board and baton? The log wall interior is a big esthetic point that is required to remain.
Hey Spray, couldn't find the next video. I currently have foam board insulation on my attic ceiling. Should I remove them, spray closed cell 2 inches, and then reapply the boards on top?
How are the two foam components mixed within the gun? I know that the separate components are toxic and have to be mixed thoroughly in the right ratios to become non-toxic. I don't understand how this is accomplished in the gun. It doesn't seem that it would mix the two components well.
First of all these are chemicals not food grade ingredients. So "toxic" is like saying the paint going on my walls is toxic... the framing of the language is wrong. The chems are mixed in a mixing chamber via impingement mix at 1000 psi. That means they enter, hit each other and swirl before leaving out under high pressure. It is more efficient than stirring by hand.
Is there such a thing as overkill with spray foam? I'm planning a new house build and want to frame with 2x10's to allow 5 1/2" of spray foam before I run all my utilities and add another 4" r12 batt after. Keep in mind I live in a very cold northern climate. Is this too much?
I’ve been spraying closed cell foam for over 12 years, and am not a fan of flash and batt application. 2 inches may not be sufficient enough to stop a vapor drive in the higher climate zones. If you want to fill a cavity with traditional insulation over a layer of foam, why not just spray a little more foam?
@@SprayJones I agree, if the applicator is competent enough to do his job properly, you only get one shot to do it right, some companies are hiring people off the street and not training them properly, and I hear horror stories about that after the fact.
I’m thinking of spraying 2” of closed cell spray foam onto the sheetrock of my attic floor. Do you have vapor barrier data for closed cell spray foam over sheetrock?
If I put this on the inside (I have a metal roof, so the “ceiling”) up to 1 inch maybe two, and put batting over it, is it advisable to plastic over that?
Wow, I’m quite surprised. Here in Germany if you build a new house, the minimum is a value of 0,24 W/(m²K) for the total wall construction. Anything less is forbidden. Here nowadays the insulation is around 6’’ as a standard (e.g. roof).
Yes it would be less cost naturally but depending on the climate zone you are in is what determines that.. I spray peoples houses and as a contractor I will not spray less than 3" under the roof deck, and I aill spray 2" in the walls at the very least.. I am in north western Ky. which is climate zone #4... A person may b able to get by with less under the roof deck but since it concerns peoples possible life long house I don't like to cut corners.... Just like I would not run #14 copper wiring for my house either... It is normally done once so why go for the "Get by" on either electricity or Insulation..
About to have a metal building spray foamed. I’m in North Mississippi. Contractor has quoted for 1” close cell on walls and 2” closed cell on ceiling. I don’t intend to necessarily heat or cool space. My intent is basically to insulate against extremes of hot or cold but with the ability to regulate temperatures somewhat. Is the recommendation of 1” walls and 2” ceiling sufficient? If not what would be your recommendation? Concerned with cost it may add..
Here is Canada we do 2 inch closed cell for walls and roof all the time. Reason? It takes the same labor to install 2 inch as 1 inch. So why not pay for a little more material and have all you could ever need.
Nice video. I'm considering closed cell to insulate a pole barn workshop but I do not want to spray directly on the metal walls so I can remove damaged panels in the future (ok--and now, too). From the inside I would like to first put foamular sheets on the girts, tape the seams, then spray 2 or 3 inches in the cavity, vertically hang 5' wide rolls of unfaced fiberglass pole barn blanket insulation then finish the wall. Spray foam 6" of the bottom of the cavity to mitigate wicking by the batts. Is this a good idea? Will the spray foam be compatible with the foamular sheets? Will bugs be an issue for either the foamular sheets or the spray foam? The UV rays won't reach the foamular so I don't believe it will break down. Outside design temperature is -25 F, will be a radiant concrete floor with foamular on the bottom and sides with an ERV.
Not a good idea. Put up the timbers, wrap externally with a fabric wrap -- well fastened, then install your metal. 100% spray foam to the inside. Enjoy.
@@SprayJones Thanks for the reply, but my building and steel are already up (which is why I was considering this method). Seems to me spraying on the fabric wrap (I have none---which would need to be added on the inside of the outer girt--thus off the steel) would be less support than spraying on a stiff foamular sheet (if compatible), so I'm not quite clear where you see the problem. What am I missing? Alternatively, would you say if I just fasten fabric wrap to the inside of the outer girts instead of foamular sheets then spray, that is OK?
@@drinkin-n-thinkin9913 You need the foam well adhered and well fastened to the building and what you are trying to insulate. Going direct to metal is not wrong. You are trying to leave a "what if" in your future. The "what if" now will be a 98% seal which allows air leakage and moisture behind the spray foam with no way to remedy it easily. Also the foam as it cools contracts, this can pull anything off the wall that is not well fastened. I have seen wood studs that missed getting some nails get pulled over by the foam. Get a good seal and don't worry so much about "if" you need to pull panels off.
i would not spray foam my steel to the girts any more than i would use subfloor glue to attach my roofing shingles to my plywood roof decking. what did you end up doing?
Excellent channel. I’m in southwestern New Mexico USA. Is BASF Walltite available in the USA? I don’t see it on their website. Any information will be appreciated. Thanks
Walltite is a Canadian made SPF for the Canadian market and specific requirements. BASF is a huge multi national and sells all over the world. They have many outlets in the USA. Altanta, GA is USA headquarters. They should be able to direct you to help.
The maximum expansion of the chemistry is to be x25 greater than whatever the liquid mass is of the two components that are mixed. Thicker foam is just more liquid mixed product rising.
The 1" refered to is after the foam has expanded and cured . You would not want to spray 1" of liquid material at one time or it would not cure properly .
@@SprayJones unfortunately all we have in BC is a bunch of no-name stuff and Shunda Comfot Lock HFO, but they’ve been ignoring me for months when asking them about off-gassing and VOCs. Something doesn’t seem right.
@@SprayJones I mean if they add bubble wrapper inside the spray could it help insulation but with certain remote direct energy weapon could it affect the rate of exploding?
@@ericpham8205 Direct energy weapons only work when the flux capacitor is fully cooled with liquid nitrogen. So I don't see it being an issue except if we were planning on using it in hollow earth.
Coming from the opposite direction is spraying more than two inches of foam productive for people living in a cold climate. With the current war on energy, I can see heating costs going way up.
Great content, if I may provide some feedback, I'd talk less about subscribing etc. People will will like/subscribe/comment if your content is good, which it is. I subscribed after watching one vid bc the content was good, before you even mentioned it. You mean well I'm sure but pestering about it got pretty annoying and I almost unsub'd.
I can't satisfy anyone: music or no music, 360P, 1080P, slow the images down, speed them up, talk more, talk less, show us the foam more, no talk about the stats more, shut up about stats we want to see it sprayed, videos should be longer, no shorter, can you compare other products.....
@@SprayJones notice I didn’t mention any of things you mentioned (many of which are preferences), just about nagging ppl to sub Have you ever gone to a car dealership and the dealer says “if you like and want this car, don’t forget to buy it!” Like no shit man that’s the whole point of me being here...
@@SprayJones as I’ve said though I think the info in your channel great, I’m sure you’ll be successful as you focus on providing ppl such valuable knowledge you have
@@s50201 I have already changed Friday's video just on your suggestion. No more nagging.. and I do think it improves the overall quality of the experience.
@@SprayJones In Ontario Canada, due to the flammability of Spray foam, it must be covered with Drywall. I doubt that it emits CarbonMonoxide when it burns. That is from hydrocarbon fuel. See attached. Here in Ontario, yes it is required to be covered by Gypsum wallboard (drywall) because it is flammable. The vapour barrier is a separate issue. There are generally two different types of spray foam, Open cell (also called Icynene) and closed cell. The closed cell has a higher R value or Resistance to Heat Transfer than the open cell and has a "Perm rating" that allows it to act as a vapour barrier, however, some municipalities may take issue (although rare, it does and has happened). There are some Inspectors that are concerned with the possibility of shrinkage of the wood framing materials over time as they reach equilibrium and are concerned that once the foam has cured (hardened) the shrinkage of the wood could cause slight gaps which would then become a direct thermal bridge, allowing the potential for condensation to form on the back of paper faced gypsum wall board. Again this is uncommon as spray foam insulation is widely used now in the southern Ontario market. To summarize, in Ontario, yes spray foam insulation is required to be covered with Drywall.
@@gordbaker896 Those rules are Canada wide. There are a number of coverings that are approved besides drywall. There are spray on coatings too. Plus exemptions from covering for certain areas.... There is no rating in National Building Code for smoke toxicity of products. Watch my video where we burn the SPF. In the comments there is a ex-fire marshall that weighs on it. He makes some good points.
Good luck trying to find a roof leak. And home inspectors can't see the roof rafters for rotting wood. and when the bank finds out the inspector can't inspect the framing? You're screwed...
Here in the US, State of Maine it is very common to install 2" of closed cell in a 2x6 cavity and then dense pack with cellulose after.
Right. Will do a follow up video on that. Coming in the next 25 videos in 90 days.
The cellulose will settle over 5 years .on a 14’ wall I had one repaired that settled 2’ that had no insulation at all in the top of the wall !
Great 2” it is. I’m about to spray the underside of my detached garage roof sheeting. Can’t wait to keep the Oregon winters out of my shop. 👍
Sounds great!
My brain loves the technical information you provided here.
Great work!
Watch for next week's video on vapor barriers. That one will go over code, engineering and building science.
Great video. I'm my area, anything less than 2" may allow for condensation. Building code aside, I can't have water in my walls.
It isn't about a spec. It is about the stats for starting point. Watch "how much foam do I need".
EXACTLY
@@tims6763 we talking walls or do ceilings matter too? I only ask because a ceiling can get as much as 18” of blown in thrown in vs a wall that may only get 3.5-5.5”. However walls normally get the closed cell on the outside sheathing or the cold side vs a ceiling will get the closed cell on the warm side.
Would love to see a video of RETRO FITTING spray foam into existing structure without having to tear off walls, which is cost prohibitive and labor intensive. Are there products that allow for filling walls thru holes and hoses?
Thanks man this is exactly the info I was looking for and I couldn’t find a straight answer anywhere else.
Glad to help.
I read a study a year ago that anything over 3” in a 2x6 cavity on 16” centers was a waste due to the thermal bridging of the wood to the inside wall.
We are going to answer that real soon. Sub if you haven't.
I have a complete thermal camera scan with SPF and we are going to look at some studs!
We did 1" closed cell in a 6" cavity, and then packed in rolls of Kraft faced fiberglass R-13 rolls.
Flash and batt is having REAL big issues in cold climates.
@@SprayJones condensation issues, or just not keeping the house insulated enough?
@@spadutyflugins Condensation.
The science of flash and batt is all wrong. You are relying on the SPF at 1 inch to be perfect enough to hold back the air and thermal drive. The batt won't stop it and you have NOT installed a poly vapor barrier. So the structure can have massive air leakage or condensing points via too thin of foam.
Go sole source.
I'd like a copy of that report. This is a killer video. Facts, man!!
I’d love to see Spray Jones give advice on the best approach to small remodeling jobs that can’t justify the cost of a big rig visit. Would they recommend us using the smaller foam kits from Dap and and other manufacturers?
Use rigid SM board
i have a metal building (garage/shop) here in Houston Tx, and one of the contractors is telling me 1" of closed cell is enough and some are suggesting 2" on the celling? the 1" is obviously cheaper than the others.....
Watch the video on "how much foam do I need?"
Great information and I look forward to your future videos. Thank you for the content
Thank you for that Jesse. New video coming on Friday and I disclose some of the new video topics I am working on now.
You gained my trust and earned my subscription. Good job and just the information I was looking for.
Welcome aboard!
Spray foam is sure something to look at. Have you discussed when It comes time to add a plug or switch outlet, or run a new circuit. What about adding on the the structure. How much extra work is needed to accomplish these tasks.
Not much. Adding a plug into an existing wall is rare, it can be done with the wall enclosed. The foam is usually not 100% of the cavity. More like 75%.
People that have added told me it was easier than with batts.
A 2x4 stud wall is actually 3.5" deep so even with our walls being sprayed with 2-2.25" of closed cell foam there is still enough room to fish wires through the wall cavity if need be . A 2x6 wall is definitely no issue . It actually is easier as the wire does not get hung up in loose insulation when trying to feed it through .
I only care about air sealing. Hoping 1” is enough for my ceiling drywall to fully close my ceiling in. After watching, looks like I’ll be good! 👍
1" is not enough to meet vapor barrier codes and you could very well have condensation on the inside in certain climates!!!. It seals very well that is for sure... I have been spraying foam since 1997..
I just presented to you that the SPF at 1 inch thick CAN meet the specs for vapor diffusion set forth in the code. Did you watch this part of the video?
We are taking a look at what 1 inch can do, not writing a grand master spec.
Can I spray closed cell foam in the attic on top of drywall
Great video again. As per your suggestion I am also getting 2” Walltite sprayed directly on concrete then I’ll frame in front of it but I was thinking of putting in Roxul in the stud bays after.
Hopefully you get that video out soon lol
Thank you for your feedback.
The roxul is completely redundant after the 2 inch of SPF. Spend the money elsewhere unless you are being required to do this for some reason.
@@SprayJones what would you suggest? The 2” will give me approx r12-14 but I think the Ontario building code wants like r20 now. That’s almost 4” of foam. Going to make my tiny basement even smaller haha
In your opinion, would the 2” be sufficient for our winters? (Eventually it will be a finished basement )
@@skyline5354 Walltite can do that at 3 inches. Offset the framing 1 inch and then install the foam.
On Friday the new video will be about R value and the SPF. A great follow up to today's video.
@@SprayJones ah I see. I was planning on spraying first then framing
@@skyline5354 Frame 1 inch off the wall, 24 OC and then spray 3 inches CC. That is what we do all the time for our projects and the pass code.
Two questions. Does open cell of 1 inch thickness also reduce the 72% of air loss like closed does? Do you recommend using open cell on roof and closed on walls of a pole barn. I ask about the open on the roof because I've been told you don't want closed cell in rafters because its harder to spot leaks? Will the open cell then not serve as a vapor barrier against the roof deck?
install it in 2010 attic and base great congers new york and triangle tube boiler 110 and whole house water filter
I don't know what you are saying...
Liked and subscribed 👍 I am building a 4car garage so I have to educate myself on insulation. Thanks
Thanks for the sub!
Can you use an inch of closed cell then go over the top with open cell? It seems that the open cell is more affordable.
What is the water vapour perm of 1 inch on a basement concrete wall? Would it be similar to densglass?
excellent presentation!
Glad you liked it!
I watch and really look forward to your videos. I am wondering about a diy family that built their own home and didnt put "enough closed foam" in to stop interior sweating...and had to remove it all. If it stops heat transfer 72% at 1 inch...why so much condensation? Thanks.
Because the "not enough crowd" is 1/2" usually is select areas, and no foam in tight spots. That adds up to huge issues dripping.
@@SprayJones do you think its overkill to fill an entire 6 inch studded wall with closed cell? Or would you do an inch snd then do either open cell or batts? I am framing a 30x40 second floor now with 6 inch walls and a 13 foot cathedral ceiling to the peak.
@@rogerwhiting9310 Yes it is overkill. Watch the walls video out now, and the how much foam do I need video.
@@SprayJones thanks
Great information, thanks. 👍👍👍. 1-27-2023
Thanks for watching!
Hello, just a confimation that metal as the substrate would have an even lower number than OSB for purposes of water barrier correct? Just had my 50x80 Post Building spray with 1.5" at walls and 2" on roof direct to metal and just want ing to make sure I have a decent understanding of this even though my county requires 0 building inspections other than electrical and I have zero plans to sell/morgage this building
What about for the Inside of a School Bus conversion?
Yes no issues.
Like your no-nonsense fact-based approach. I'm building a Honka log home in Buena Vista, CO. For the non-log areas of the home such as the rake above the log stack and the roofing (metal), what would you use. Open or closed cell? how thick for best in class (way above code) R value? and what brand of foam? Do your recommend anyone in Chaffee County area? What about sound barrier quality between interior floors? Btw, using ICF Nudura product for the foundation. Thanks for your guidance.
Closed cell all the way. You need the support. For all else you need to speak with those that know your local regs.
Thanks for the nice breakdown here, quite comprehensive! What would be your thoughts on spraying a log home from the outside that would then be covered with siding or board and baton? The log wall interior is a big esthetic point that is required to remain.
I don't see any thermal issues. We spray commercial buildings that way. There are more technical requirements for bugs, water drainage etc.
Hey Spray, couldn't find the next video. I currently have foam board insulation on my attic ceiling. Should I remove them, spray closed cell 2 inches, and then reapply the boards on top?
How are the two foam components mixed within the gun? I know that the separate components are toxic and have to be mixed thoroughly in the right ratios to become non-toxic. I don't understand how this is accomplished in the gun. It doesn't seem that it would mix the two components well.
First of all these are chemicals not food grade ingredients. So "toxic" is like saying the paint going on my walls is toxic... the framing of the language is wrong.
The chems are mixed in a mixing chamber via impingement mix at 1000 psi. That means they enter, hit each other and swirl before leaving out under high pressure. It is more efficient than stirring by hand.
@@SprayJones "Impingement", great word. I'll have to work that into a sentence tomorrow!
Is there such a thing as overkill with spray foam? I'm planning a new house build and want to frame with 2x10's to allow 5 1/2" of spray foam before I run all my utilities and add another 4" r12 batt after. Keep in mind I live in a very cold northern climate. Is this too much?
Please watch our video "how much SPF do I need?"
No. That's a great idea. I did the same to my place. Well worth it !
I’ve been spraying closed cell foam for over 12 years, and am not a fan of flash and batt application. 2 inches may not be sufficient enough to stop a vapor drive in the higher climate zones. If you want to fill a cavity with traditional insulation over a layer of foam, why not just spray a little more foam?
2 inches will stop it, the data is clear on that part. Flash and batt is non sense and I have a new video on it coming out on Friday.
@@SprayJones I agree, if the applicator is competent enough to do his job properly, you only get one shot to do it right, some companies are hiring people off the street and not training them properly, and I hear horror stories about that after the fact.
I’m thinking of spraying 2” of closed cell spray foam onto the sheetrock of my attic floor. Do you have vapor barrier data for closed cell spray foam over sheetrock?
Go watch my video on spraying down in an attic. It is in the vaulted ceiling playlist.
thanks for posting this
Our pleasure!
If I put this on the inside (I have a metal roof, so the “ceiling”) up to 1 inch maybe two, and put batting over it, is it advisable to plastic over that?
Don't mix batts and foam. Pick one and use only that. Lot's of videos here to educate you on why.
Would this work on an aluminum yacht ???
I called a local spray foam company for a new 40x60 shop and they told me open cell is better. It goes against all what I have heard and read.
What do you recommend for max insulation , and less moisture for 2x6 multifamily
Watch "how much foam do I need"
Wow, I’m quite surprised. Here in Germany if you build a new house, the minimum is a value of 0,24 W/(m²K) for the total wall construction. Anything less is forbidden. Here nowadays the insulation is around 6’’ as a standard (e.g. roof).
This isn't about code or what to apply it is about what 1 inch will give you as a starting point.
6" of closed cell spray foam ?
@@rydfree No, either glass or stonewool or extruded styrofoam plates (EPS)
Great information
Glad it was helpful!
In an 6" to 10" wall or roof can you 2" closed then the remainder in open cell? Would it be much cheaper than all closed cell?
Yes it would be less cost naturally but depending on the climate zone you are in is what determines that.. I spray peoples houses and as a contractor I will not spray less than 3" under the roof deck, and I aill spray 2" in the walls at the very least.. I am in north western Ky. which is climate zone #4... A person may b able to get by with less under the roof deck but since it concerns peoples possible life long house I don't like to cut corners.... Just like I would not run #14 copper wiring for my house either... It is normally done once so why go for the "Get by" on either electricity or Insulation..
About to have a metal building spray foamed. I’m in North Mississippi. Contractor has quoted for 1” close cell on walls and 2” closed cell on ceiling. I don’t intend to necessarily heat or cool space. My intent is basically to insulate against extremes of hot or cold but with the ability to regulate temperatures somewhat. Is the recommendation of 1” walls and 2” ceiling sufficient? If not what would be your recommendation? Concerned with cost it may add..
Here is Canada we do 2 inch closed cell for walls and roof all the time. Reason? It takes the same labor to install 2 inch as 1 inch. So why not pay for a little more material and have all you could ever need.
@@SprayJonesThank you, that makes sense.
Nice video. I'm considering closed cell to insulate a pole barn workshop but I do not want to spray directly on the metal walls so I can remove damaged panels in the future (ok--and now, too). From the inside I would like to first put foamular sheets on the girts, tape the seams, then spray 2 or 3 inches in the cavity, vertically hang 5' wide rolls of unfaced fiberglass pole barn blanket insulation then finish the wall. Spray foam 6" of the bottom of the cavity to mitigate wicking by the batts. Is this a good idea? Will the spray foam be compatible with the foamular sheets? Will bugs be an issue for either the foamular sheets or the spray foam? The UV rays won't reach the foamular so I don't believe it will break down. Outside design temperature is -25 F, will be a radiant concrete floor with foamular on the bottom and sides with an ERV.
Not a good idea.
Put up the timbers, wrap externally with a fabric wrap -- well fastened, then install your metal. 100% spray foam to the inside.
Enjoy.
@@SprayJones Thanks for the reply, but my building and steel are already up (which is why I was considering this method). Seems to me spraying on the fabric wrap (I have none---which would need to be added on the inside of the outer girt--thus off the steel) would be less support than spraying on a stiff foamular sheet (if compatible), so I'm not quite clear where you see the problem. What am I missing? Alternatively, would you say if I just fasten fabric wrap to the inside of the outer girts instead of foamular sheets then spray, that is OK?
@@drinkin-n-thinkin9913 You need the foam well adhered and well fastened to the building and what you are trying to insulate. Going direct to metal is not wrong. You are trying to leave a "what if" in your future. The "what if" now will be a 98% seal which allows air leakage and moisture behind the spray foam with no way to remedy it easily. Also the foam as it cools contracts, this can pull anything off the wall that is not well fastened. I have seen wood studs that missed getting some nails get pulled over by the foam.
Get a good seal and don't worry so much about "if" you need to pull panels off.
i would not spray foam my steel to the girts any more than i would use subfloor glue to attach my roofing shingles to my plywood roof decking. what did you end up doing?
@@petejohnson8397 So far, nothing. In a holding pattern to focus on building the house.
Excellent channel. I’m in southwestern New Mexico USA. Is BASF Walltite available in the USA? I don’t see it on their website. Any information will be appreciated. Thanks
Walltite is a Canadian made SPF for the Canadian market and specific requirements.
BASF is a huge multi national and sells all over the world. They have many outlets in the USA. Altanta, GA is USA headquarters. They should be able to direct you to help.
@@SprayJones thanks for the info. I have been on their website. Lots of products to look at. I will contact a local BASF applicator. Cheers.
Have you done any Dome structures? For example Monolithic Domes.
No. Those are rare, in who builds them or wants them.
I know of 1 done in 25 years.
I'm confused....if closed cell foam expands 25 times of it's liquid mass...what is the total expansion of 1 inch of spray ?
The maximum expansion of the chemistry is to be x25 greater than whatever the liquid mass is of the two components that are mixed. Thicker foam is just more liquid mixed product rising.
The 1" refered to is after the foam has expanded and cured . You would not want to spray 1" of liquid material at one time or it would not cure properly .
trying to get walltite in my basement but there’s a huge shortage due to COVID!
Yes. BASF has been hit abnormally hard on this. We have had 1 year of trickle supply from them.
Huntsman Heat Lok is a great 2nd choice.
@@SprayJones unfortunately all we have in BC is a bunch of no-name stuff and Shunda Comfot Lock HFO, but they’ve been ignoring me for months when asking them about off-gassing and VOCs. Something doesn’t seem right.
@@trevorhardy3544 You are correct. Get the data. Send me an email via m web site. I will share the BASF rep info for you.
Can we add bubble plastic on to thermo property qualify
I do not understand what you are asking.
@@SprayJones I mean if they add bubble wrapper inside the spray could it help insulation but with certain remote direct energy weapon could it affect the rate of exploding?
@@ericpham8205 Direct energy weapons only work when the flux capacitor is fully cooled with liquid nitrogen. So I don't see it being an issue except if we were planning on using it in hollow earth.
Coming from the opposite direction is spraying more than two inches of foam productive for people living in a cold climate. With the current war on energy, I can see heating costs going way up.
Yes, Watch Friday's video on R value. Also you would like "how much spray foam do I need". It that I go over the BTU retention.
I'm getting 1.5" closed cell sprayed in my new metal building. 4K more for 2" I went with 1.5"
Ok
How safe is this?
CDC says very safe, no testing required.
What about spraying attic in house in mid Texas? Same 2” or 1”?
You will have code requirements. Watch today's video on R value of 2 inches and more.
@@SprayJones we do not have code requirements where I am. It’s a small town.
@@Prorex1911 would go with 3 inch then. Today you will see why.
Also if you want watch right now "how much foam do I need". That will help.
whays the life expectancy of the foam?
Generations.
@@SprayJones then why is insurance able to make a deal about spray foam?
@@Jessersadler I don't understand what is "a deal"?
@@SprayJones why insurance companies have issues insuring homes with spray foam insulatuon
@@Jessersadler I think you are speaking about termite insurance. Because people are lazy and don't do research.
I was trying to watch the video but there's so many commercials I had to turn it off
I will look at see what the settings are at YT and adjust. hate annoying ads too.
I checked and they "defaulted" mid video ads. So those are turned off. Skippable beginning and ending ads only.
@@SprayJones I love the information but I'm kind of out in the country and when add comes on it takes forever for the phone to finish loading
👍👍
Is 1 Inch of Spray Foam Insulation Enough? Ask you're average ice chest.
Great content, if I may provide some feedback, I'd talk less about subscribing etc. People will will like/subscribe/comment if your content is good, which it is.
I subscribed after watching one vid bc the content was good, before you even mentioned it. You mean well I'm sure but pestering about it got pretty annoying and I almost unsub'd.
I can't satisfy anyone: music or no music, 360P, 1080P, slow the images down, speed them up, talk more, talk less, show us the foam more, no talk about the stats more, shut up about stats we want to see it sprayed, videos should be longer, no shorter, can you compare other products.....
I will tweak it based on your recommendation. Something more palatable
@@SprayJones notice I didn’t mention any of things you mentioned (many of which are preferences), just about nagging ppl to sub
Have you ever gone to a car dealership and the dealer says “if you like and want this car, don’t forget to buy it!” Like no shit man that’s the whole point of me being here...
@@SprayJones as I’ve said though I think the info in your channel great, I’m sure you’ll be successful as you focus on providing ppl such valuable knowledge you have
@@s50201 I have already changed Friday's video just on your suggestion. No more nagging.. and I do think it improves the overall quality of the experience.
Don't forget that these products MUST be covered with Drywall/Gypsum for Fire Protection. Foam emits cyanide gas when exposed to flame. Deadly.
No it does not emit cyanide that is a lie!
@@SprayJones Does that only apply to Styrofoam? What gasses are emitted when it burns?
@@gordbaker896 Mostly carbon monoxide. I have a video on toxic smoke. It is in the health and safety playlist.
It is older, but the info is sound.
@@SprayJones In Ontario Canada, due to the flammability of Spray foam, it must be covered with Drywall. I doubt that it emits CarbonMonoxide when it burns. That is from hydrocarbon fuel.
See attached.
Here in Ontario, yes it is required to be covered by Gypsum wallboard (drywall) because it is flammable.
The vapour barrier is a separate issue. There are generally two different types of spray foam, Open cell (also called Icynene) and closed cell. The closed cell has a higher R value or Resistance to Heat Transfer than the open cell and has a "Perm rating" that allows it to act as a vapour barrier, however, some municipalities may take issue (although rare, it does and has happened). There are some Inspectors that are concerned with the possibility of shrinkage of the wood framing materials over time as they reach equilibrium and are concerned that once the foam has cured (hardened) the shrinkage of the wood could cause slight gaps which would then become a direct thermal bridge, allowing the potential for condensation to form on the back of paper faced gypsum wall board.
Again this is uncommon as spray foam insulation is widely used now in the southern Ontario market.
To summarize, in Ontario, yes spray foam insulation is required to be covered with Drywall.
@@gordbaker896 Those rules are Canada wide. There are a number of coverings that are approved besides drywall. There are spray on coatings too. Plus exemptions from covering for certain areas....
There is no rating in National Building Code for smoke toxicity of products.
Watch my video where we burn the SPF. In the comments there is a ex-fire marshall that weighs on it. He makes some good points.
Good luck trying to find a roof leak. And home inspectors can't see the roof rafters for rotting wood. and when the bank finds out the inspector can't inspect the framing? You're screwed...