I used to spray in the 2000s, all good info, I cant think of anything to add or take away from this. Side note, DO NOT have any exposed hair when spraying, ANY hair...
@@cepedafj The pole barn guys do it all the time, just remember, its like super glue, if you ever have to replace panel its going to be hell. The recommendations are to put building wrap on first to isolate the metal. I think it will be fine once it has cured, but check the products heat tolerances first with ANSI sheet.
@@sroberds640 no ypu dp not put wrap on first..it leaves a place for condensation to pool up..the point of spray foam is to be a vapour barrier and have adhesion to the surface ..p.s.i am fully licensed spray foam installer with a 200 thousand doller rig ..dont give advice online if u dont k ow proper info...2 i ches is also whats called for as vb
Sprayed my mom’s entire pole barn with these kits & was very pleased with the results. Although I will say part A always seemed to run out before part B for some reason
When i bought my house the basement rim joists were insulated with just fiberglass bats. When i pulled them out there was mold,bugs and evidence of previous mouse residence. It was gross. I could see daylight between the foundation and rim joist. I caulked all of the gaps. Then installed rigid foam and used can foam to seal them. I wish i had known about the DAP kit then. I would have saved days and my sanity.
READ THE FINE PRINT. The 600 is supposed to be the approximate number of square feet that can be covered at 1 inch thick but I bought two frothpaks and neither one came anywhere near the coverage advertised. It was WAY short. I sent photos and calculations to the vendor demonstrating that my calculations were correct and my application was correct. The vendor did nothing but make excuses. I hired a pro for the same amount it would have cost me to finish the job. When they came in and saw my application they offered me a job. Before spending ANY money on a frothpak, do your calculations carefully recognizing that you'll get about 3/4's of the advertised coverage, then get a bid from a pro. You just may be surprised.
@@pwner4once I don’t know. They bring in a big truck with tanks. I was able to get the cost down a bit by covering the floor and other exposed spaces with plastic before they arrived. If they agree make sure the plastic is heavy and secure it well.
1" of Closed Cell Spray Foam does not provide the permanence rating of 6mil Poly Vapour Barrier. A minimum of 2" is required to meet this permanence rating. Also, if sill plates, double top plates and built up studs gaps are not being caulked with acoustic sealant, then there is still a air/vapour pathway. Further, in Ontario, spray foam is required to be protected against fire (6" Roxul Insulation, Drywall, Plywood are some examples of protection). Great video as always.
I was thinking about buying a spray rig and going into business just to have the process available for a huge industrial building I am converting. This will let me reuse the existing bat insulation and I can still do the projects in manageable bites and I don't have to run around doing other people's work for them and no huge outlay. All the contractors in my area want a grand to park in your driveway and let you know the total when they're done. Won't estimate, not even over the phone. Have to strip the whole thing at once at those prices. Thumbs up except no approximate price or best places to start looking. Best 9 & half minutes I'll have today. Thank you.
I just started looking into these because the local guys are not willing to do a 600 board foot insulation job. Well, they will, but the price is the same as a 1500 board foot job.
Finally completed my attic floor spray foam project. Didn't use the Daps but use Tiger Foam, worked great. Glad the spray foam was still good because I delayed the project last year around this time. Was lucky to get it done, northern Indiana had a few days of 70's °F before dipping down to the 30-60°F
The Carpenter is right you need to have surface clean; temperatures of Air, product and surface to be sprayed is critical there was a couple in Canada that had a house sprayed in the addict and it continues to gas off; forcing the family to live in a RV outside
Yes, spray foam is fine if professionally done correctly, if not done right, then it's a nightmare. Having said that, DIY spray foam kits sold in Canada are not to be used for anything other than beading. Fan spraying with kits in layers is a no no, as per the manufacturer because it violates code. From Dow, (and this includes stud cavities) **For rim/band joist applications, use FROTH-PAK™ Foam Insulation (available in U.S. only) to meet building code specifications.
That's true. Those kits are cost effective (and time savers) only if you are using one kit. Anything over starts to be more expensive than a contractor. BTW. anything over 3-4in of closed foam is waste of money.
Thank you so much for posting this great Information. I was unaware of this product that a DIYer like myself could purchase and use to improve my insulation.
Thanks for the info. I have a pack waiting for me to insulate the well house. Need to get it done before it cools off too much. Thanks for the tips too.
Just what I needed to pump myself up for that basement wall that is freezing cold and making the room above 10 degrees colder than the rest of the house. I plan to do this 600 system. Followed by filling with bats since we have plenty of those already but the generator guys (electricians) tore out the bats and never put them back. Probably why we are having weird temps. Next I’ll use some bat supports and then a layer of reflectix. And seal that flocker up good
I just bought property out side of a small town. I would say 45 miles from a city of 200,000 My land will be in the grading And landscaping mode next year By myself ..No permits needed 2 40 x 9 high shipping containners on concrete pillars...water sewage /hydro framing Theses are the basics You really cant go cheaper on other than shopping around for the same product... With hiring a company that uses closed cell spray foam I feel the foam compared to the DAP system. Looks And feels denser And leaves a thicker ..crust (lack of a better word) And for 2 trailers even with the cost of travel seem a the better choice..2 inches of foam is a min in the Canadian north And and a spend now save later view..
Very informative. I've watched several videos and the last I don't know three to five of yours that I've watched on the insulation methods especially with foam board versus closed foam the 600 series has given me help to understand which is best for my application in my basement on directly on cinder block walls. Also giving me ideas for my brother's bathroom where he bumped out a dormer maybe an extended his bathroom to give him an extra two or three feet but the insulation was never covered with plastic and it is brown or black and places thumbs even hanging down I do not know if he put any foam behind it so it seems to me if I understand correctly that he's got no vapor barrier and this insulation may all need to be taken out. The bathroom is yet to be finished and the insulation just looks used and old and possibly wet in places because I know there were several roof leaks new messages received. Thanks again I will continue to watch your videos for further instruction to accomplish this at least in my own basement. The 60-year-old Widow woman. All about DIY but ends up paying someone to get projects done.
@@ConcordCarpenter I believe the OP was referring to the overspray that occurs when using this product. Tape the studs and when the job is complete just pull the tape and all the studs are clear of material and ready to have rock hung on them. A little bit of prep at the beginning will save even more time from not having to scrap as you go from the overspray.
@@shadowzedge5793 I know - he's right for regular spray foam guns that spray at 3000 PSI,, but these froth pks don't have that pressure and ts easy NOT to overspray if you're careful.
Good info. New subscriber! I'm rehabing an old mobile with air leaks everywhere. It's also in the fire zone in Northern California so preventing smoke intrusion is very important. I'll check out your channel for more insulation tips. 👍
2in has the best cost for dollar benefit. 1in is roughly 78% efficient. 2in is 86%, 3in is 90, 4 is 92, 5 is 93 and you increase 1% per in after 5in. So you see the largest efficacy increase to 2in, 3 if you have the money but you have to pay for a 2nd pass because you can't lay anymore than 2in at a time. But for you to pay for the extra inch to get the 4%, are you really going to see that back in heating expense over the years. Probably not.
I did my 1934 home’s rim joists this fall. I could see sunlight coming in and had constant insect issues Well worth the $700 or so. I would say the benefits are as follows: - helps to eliminate the “chimney effect” - I cannot believe how much calmer the air is in my main floor now - it’s winter of course but I did not see any spider webs etc after spraying - basement is warmer of course - as ugly as the spray is it’s better looking than that terrible fiberglass - home is much quieter. You wouldn’t think insulation in the rim joists would have such an impact on the sound of cars etc going by on the main floor but it definitely has deadened the ambient noise The 600 pack was overkill for my 900+ sq ft home. I ended up wasting a massive amount of the material even going around the entire house at least twice. I could have easily used the smaller kit and been fine. I didn’t use the same wide fan nozzle as in the video - too many small nooks to fill I had some issues with quality of the kits and had to end up returning a few until I actually got a fully functional kit. Plastic is used in some areas where metal would have prevented any issues As a DIYer I’m happy to answer any questions you have - fantastic stuff and saved me a few hundred over hiring it out, and will be more permanent than any cutting and caulking up reflective board. I see a lot of new construction in my job (mortgage lending) and I’m dumbfounded that home builders are still just shoving batts into the rim joists and throwing up drywall.
They cut corners where they can for speed and savings. But as a homeowner, I’d gladly pay and extra few thousand more over 30 years. But production home builders don’t see it that way.
Hi, where can I find these packs for sale? I Need insulate a 40' ship container ASAP, my first quote was $16k it's crazy for me, with this quote I just decided to diy. How many packs d u think I have to buy to fill all my walls and roof with 2" to 3"? Thank you
A couple of mistakes in the video To be a vapor barrier this product needs to be 2 inches, anything less is not a vapor barrier according to ESR-3052 Second is that all of these froth paks can only be installed 2 inches thick total! Never are they allowed to “fill the cavity” it would be a violation of the ESR-3052 and thus a building code violation. ESR-3052 easily found on line for free just type in ESR-3052 This is the “bible” in building the code. If any document conflicts the ESR is the controlling document.
It was recommended that I use this type of insulation in walls that were already sealed (drywalled finished rooms). I can't see how that would be optimal unless I was to remove all the dry wall and do it properly. What method would be optimal when dealing with a finished room/wall without having to remove the drywall? Cutting small to medium holes would not be a deal breaker and I can easily patch those.
Blow in insulation. Home Depot rents out the shredder and blower and you buy the packs. Make a 3 to 4 inch hole in between each stud at the top and blow it in
How easy is it to keep spraying rim joists without stopping for more than 30 seconds? Between moving yourself, ladders, lights or crawling in a crawlspace, I could see where there would be a lot of stopping and starting.
Donald Durand And I think they say that to protect themselves period I stopped for way longer than that when doing these projects and they work fine. I think it’s just because the nozzle can dry out
I agree with Dennis Pope, when I sprayed the rim joist on a basement suite for a customer I had a helper move the cans of spray foam behind me. Went nonstop and used one tip for the whole job.
Hey Donald Durand, I was lucky. 7 foot ceiling, and a good helper, we thought it thru ahead of time and we were using the 600 froth pack. We went around three times to let it expand properly
A very big problem with this stuff is that it's sooooo expensive!... Another question I have, is what happens when there is a water leak that get's behind the sheathing (and between the closed-cell foam)?
The ROI is great on these. It seems more expensive than it actually is. If you spray it correctly the water will go elsewhere since it will not penetrate around the foam
Very helpful! Hope I succeed! In my situation I have a large 1/2" gap in those rim joists between the outer siding and the outside beam. Crawlspace doesn't have a skirt yet but will probably next year. My plan is to put up a piece of 2x4 or similar, spray in the rim joist cavity and once cured, remove that 2x4 and put it under the next set of cavities. Should that work? That little bit of spray foam will be exposed directly to outside air until the skirt is built.
a heads up for anyone in Canada, this froth pack does not meet vapour barrier requirements according to the Canadian building code. I found this out the hard way after an argument with the inspector and a phone call to the manufacture
That was one of the worst applications I've ever seen. The proper way is to start by framing the pockets in the corners of stud to wall, effectively sealing around the studs. Then, fill in the field evenly. I noticed a lot of air gaps along the studs.
I have a few questions: I'm remodeling a 1970's travel trailer that is structurally insulated. After peeling off the old wall panels(there was sections of water damage) I need an adhesive for the new panels. Sure, I could use PL glue, or foam glue, but I'm looking for 100% coverage. There's some voids, pocks, and more than a few gouges (my falt 😅) I'd like to fill. Why 100% coverage? You wouldn't butter 30% of a tile, would you? These panels add **structure** I know i could probably use expanding foam adhesive, but that's a One Inch bead, I need a Six Inch bead😓.
can I spray on the tar paper that this 1956 house has under the firing strips that added 2x2s to or should I remove the felt and spray directly on to the brick?
I'm just a handy Joe Nobody but I would hire it out if you want spray. I sprayed a mock outhouse built over my well. Messy expensive pain. When I insulated the south wall on my steel shed, I used rigid sheets and sealed edges with spray foam cans. For perfection sheets need be cut small enough for you to properly seal edges as thick as sheets. I bought sheets secondhand and I can't compare my way to hired bc only company near me couldn't calculate sq footage. Given no simple math, I deemed unworthy to hire.
Hi, where can I find these packs for sale? I Need insulate a 40' ship container ASAP, my first quote was $16k it's crazy for me, with this quote I just decided to diy. How many packs d u think I have to buy to fill all my walls and roof with 2" to 3"? Thank you
No. Water issues should be dealt with first before any type of insulating or else mold will grow. Why is it damp? If it's condensation foam will help to stop that problem but the surface needs to be dry before application. High power fans and a dehumidifier. If the problem is water infiltration than cracks need to be fixed and water needs to shed away from the foundation on the exterior, sloping down away from the house, gutters and downspouts.
Is this foam water based? I'm looking to reinsulate my home that was built in 1947, from the outside as I'm taking the old siding off this spring/summer. I've read where spray foams shrink up to 2 inches, so I'm concerned about spray foaming my entire house only to have the foam shrink, thus giving my house an R value of 24, with this spray foam, down to who knows what value within 2 years or so.
I never understand why people spray foam sideways. I spray paint and textures on interior homes. Seems it would be much more efficient to spray length ways.
Good video Rob. A Happy Holidays to you and the rest of the crew! The only thing I don’t like about spray foam is if I add an outlet or repair a electric circuit or plumbing. Any suggestions on using spray foam and dealing with electrical and plumbing? Ron
Does anyone know a cost comparison of getting your house sprayed from a company to just buying these and doing it yourself? Do they get a bulk discount so between their costs+ profit, would be equal in cost to me buying 10 of these to do the same job?
So I have a crawl space immediately beneath the front door entrance area. The caulk job was brittle and there were fairly large areas where cement was missing upon closer inspection. I first applied Sika Self-Leveling Sealant on the outside area. In the crawl space, I applied Sika Self-Leveling Sealant followed by Quilrete Hydraulic Cement since there were large areas which needed to be sealed. After the Sika Self-Leveling Sealant & Quikrete Hydraulic Cement cured I applied two coats of DryLok Paint. It has been three weeks since the leak was discovered. No physical leak has been noted since as I setup a Nest Camera to monitor the crawlspace area as the remnants of Hurricane Ida passed through our area two days ago. However, being an HVAC company owner and also perpetually curious I decided to use a Fluke Thermal Imager to confirm no discoloration of crawlspace wall against areas considered “dry” (I.e., wall opposite crawlspace where water was never witnessed reaching). My water proofing efforts passed that test. However, here is the curious part, when I used the General MM8 moisture meter to check the wall it reported 100% wet even though it lacked the feel of being wet. I called DryLok and talked to technical support who notified me that DryLok prevents water from infiltrating but not necessarily water vapor. Hence, the 100% reading when using the Moisture Meter. So I am curious if I were to use this DAP Touch ‘N Go spray foam would it create a complete 100% vapor barrier which wouldn’t register as “wet” when using a moisture meter?
When insulating in a cold climate, you need a barrier to vapour on the warm side of the insulation. Any warm air that gets past the insulation would come in contact with the cold outer sheathing and condensation will form. A breathable but waterproof membrane is used on the cold side to shed water that might penetrate your siding but allow any moisture that might accidentally get behind it to evaporate and escape.
the cans when full, have enough pressure to throw chemicals up, but once half empty, no so maybe start your job by spraying up, then use the rest of foam elsewhere
It should work, you just need enough drums so you can keep working for 15 minutes before going back to the first drum. Also it would cost almost $100 per drum.
The amount of labor cost to fill and shave a cavity with closed cell will almost double the cost and offers very little performance increase. It is done where we don't have a 3"+ depth to apply the closed cell. Just 2" Will stop 97% of all heat flow and moisture travel with most brands of closed cell.
This stuff scares me with potentially ongoing fumes being released over time. I had a motorhome I owned for 10 years and it was always releasing fumes on a hot day that burned my eyes and lungs. What have you experienced with this product?
And that cost addition will result in much lower energy costs which turn into savings. The ROI will be different for each area depending on costs. For electric heating some areas I've seen as low as 4¢/kwh to as high as 27¢/kwh.
@@shadowzedge5793 my point was other insulation is more cost effective. The price of the two part kit is $600. Sheet foam cut to fit and calked if necessary would be 1/10 the cost.
Great video! I was unaware of the DIY option. Can you speak to the fire resistance of the finished installation? I'm interesting in spraying the rim joists in my 130 year old basement but wonder about its fire resistance when done. And if one side of the rim is effectively hermetically sealed because of the foam does this increase the chance of rotting within the rim because it will never dry to the inside but likely have the moisture levels of the outside cavity air? many thanks!
It won’t need to dry toward the interior since the foam is preventing moisture on that end. It’ll dry (if needed) to the outside of the rim, which is ideal. Humid air will it whatever is outside but also dry that way. This is the same reason why concrete slab homes with no basement can exist
Best explanation of spray foam I’ve ever seen.
Guy knows his stuff. Thanks.
I used to spray in the 2000s, all good info, I cant think of anything to add or take away from this. Side note, DO NOT have any exposed hair when spraying, ANY hair...
Can I use this product under a metal roof? I leave in the desert. Temps go over 120F. I want to insulate the roof over the garage
@@cepedafj The pole barn guys do it all the time, just remember, its like super glue, if you ever have to replace panel its going to be hell. The recommendations are to put building wrap on first to isolate the metal. I think it will be fine once it has cured, but check the products heat tolerances first with ANSI sheet.
What about filling concrete block cavities?
@@sroberds640 no ypu dp not put wrap on first..it leaves a place for condensation to pool up..the point of spray foam is to be a vapour barrier and have adhesion to the surface ..p.s.i am fully licensed spray foam installer with a 200 thousand doller rig ..dont give advice online if u dont k ow proper info...2 i ches is also whats called for as vb
For anyone looking for the amount this kit will cover. It will cover (25) cavities 9’ high 16’’ wide 2’’ of depth
So, 33ft then.
Thanks
Thanks
@Smarter Than You i think he was meaning if you needed closed cell at a thickness of 2" which for me is perfect. but someone else may need to fill it
Thank You.
Just went through 4 packages and almost fully insulated an old 1920's house. It's great stuff.
"great stuff" lol
How big was the house? Attic? Basement? Main level?
Sprayed my mom’s entire pole barn with these kits & was very pleased with the results. Although I will say part A always seemed to run out before part B for some reason
What size pole barn how many kits?
When i bought my house the basement rim joists were insulated with just fiberglass bats. When i pulled them out there was mold,bugs and evidence of previous mouse residence. It was gross. I could see daylight between the foundation and rim joist. I caulked all of the gaps. Then installed rigid foam and used can foam to seal them. I wish i had known about the DAP kit then. I would have saved days and my sanity.
It also cost a lot of money lol
I had the same scenario and ended up using that spray foam. Best $70” I ever spent
70 degrees the sweet spot. Good to know . I will wait to use this it's 15 degrees outside. Crrawlspce about 45 degrees
READ THE FINE PRINT. The 600 is supposed to be the approximate number of square feet that can be covered at 1 inch thick but I bought two frothpaks and neither one came anywhere near the coverage advertised. It was WAY short. I sent photos and calculations to the vendor demonstrating that my calculations were correct and my application was correct. The vendor did nothing but make excuses. I hired a pro for the same amount it would have cost me to finish the job. When they came in and saw my application they offered me a job. Before spending ANY money on a frothpak, do your calculations carefully recognizing that you'll get about 3/4's of the advertised coverage, then get a bid from a pro. You just may be surprised.
I have had the same experience
thanks for the warning. What product did the pro to finish the job?
@@pwner4once I don’t know. They bring in a big truck with tanks. I was able to get the cost down a bit by covering the floor and other exposed spaces with plastic before they arrived. If they agree make sure the plastic is heavy and secure it well.
@@georgetovar8947any brand or product you recommend and where do you apply this plastic to? Locations interior/attic?
What was the temperature because it has to be about 55 or 60° at least or that cuts it way down
1" of Closed Cell Spray Foam does not provide the permanence rating of 6mil Poly Vapour Barrier. A minimum of 2" is required to meet this permanence rating. Also, if sill plates, double top plates and built up studs gaps are not being caulked with acoustic sealant, then there is still a air/vapour pathway. Further, in Ontario, spray foam is required to be protected against fire (6" Roxul Insulation, Drywall, Plywood are some examples of protection). Great video as always.
I was thinking about buying a spray rig and going into business just to have the process available for a huge industrial building I am converting. This will let me reuse the existing bat insulation and I can still do the projects in manageable bites and I don't have to run around doing other people's work for them and no huge outlay. All the contractors in my area want a grand to park in your driveway and let you know the total when they're done. Won't estimate, not even over the phone. Have to strip the whole thing at once at those prices. Thumbs up except no approximate price or best places to start looking.
Best 9 & half minutes I'll have today. Thank you.
I just started looking into these because the local guys are not willing to do a 600 board foot insulation job. Well, they will, but the price is the same as a 1500 board foot job.
What dimensions are your building? Just curious. I have a 11x16’ room with 8’ ceilings. Not sure on roof pitch or size yet.
Just finished our kitchen upgrade, Used this system, it’s working well even though I haven’t reconnected the steam radiators. 👍👍
Got my 600 kit ready to roll, thanks for the tips.
Finally completed my attic floor spray foam project. Didn't use the Daps but use Tiger Foam, worked great. Glad the spray foam was still good because I delayed the project last year around this time. Was lucky to get it done, northern Indiana had a few days of 70's °F before dipping down to the 30-60°F
The Carpenter is right you need to have surface clean; temperatures of Air, product and surface to be sprayed is critical there was a couple in Canada that had a house sprayed in the addict and it continues to gas off; forcing the family to live in a RV outside
Yes, spray foam is fine if professionally done correctly, if not done right, then it's a nightmare. Having said that, DIY spray foam kits sold in Canada are not to be used for anything other than beading. Fan spraying with kits in layers is a no no, as per the manufacturer because it violates code.
From Dow, (and this includes stud cavities)
**For rim/band joist applications, use FROTH-PAK™ Foam
Insulation (available in U.S. only) to meet building code specifications.
A couple of years ago I had 160 ft3 (6” in walls) of closed cell foam for $2000 in a small room. I couldn’t have done it cheaper with these kits.
That's true. Those kits are cost effective (and time savers) only if you are using one kit. Anything over starts to be more expensive than a contractor. BTW. anything over 3-4in of closed foam is waste of money.
New houses in Denmark are pressure tested after finished, we use 400 mm Batts and plastic
Thank you so much for posting this great Information. I was unaware of this product that a DIYer like myself could purchase and use to improve my insulation.
Thanks for the info. I have a pack waiting for me to insulate the well house. Need to get it done before it cools off too much. Thanks for the tips too.
Love the closed Cell spray foam have in my attic and against my basement wall.
How did you warm the basement wall (assuming they were cold/cooler). Im in colorado and the crawlspace walls aren't in the 60-90 degree range at all.
Just what I needed to pump myself up for that basement wall that is freezing cold and making the room above 10 degrees colder than the rest of the house. I plan to do this 600 system. Followed by filling with bats since we have plenty of those already but the generator guys (electricians) tore out the bats and never put them back. Probably why we are having weird temps. Next I’ll use some bat supports and then a layer of reflectix. And seal that flocker up good
I just bought property out side of a small town. I would say 45 miles from a city of 200,000 My land will be in the grading And landscaping mode next year By myself ..No permits needed 2 40 x 9 high shipping containners on concrete pillars...water sewage /hydro framing Theses are the basics You really cant go cheaper on other than shopping around for the same product...
With hiring a company that uses closed cell spray foam I feel the foam compared to the DAP system. Looks And feels denser And leaves a thicker ..crust (lack of a better word) And for 2 trailers even with the cost of travel seem a the better choice..2 inches of foam is a min in the Canadian north And and a spend now save later view..
Thanks for the great video! Gonna spray mine today!
Very informative. I've watched several videos and the last I don't know three to five of yours that I've watched on the insulation methods especially with foam board versus closed foam the 600 series has given me help to understand which is best for my application in my basement on directly on cinder block walls. Also giving me ideas for my brother's bathroom where he bumped out a dormer maybe an extended his bathroom to give him an extra two or three feet but the insulation was never covered with plastic and it is brown or black and places thumbs even hanging down I do not know if he put any foam behind it so it seems to me if I understand correctly that he's got no vapor barrier and this insulation may all need to be taken out. The bathroom is yet to be finished and the insulation just looks used and old and possibly wet in places because I know there were several roof leaks new messages received. Thanks again I will continue to watch your videos for further instruction to accomplish this at least in my own basement. The 60-year-old Widow woman. All about DIY but ends up paying someone to get projects done.
Putting tape on your studs will save you scraping later.
scrape as you go or better yet, dont spray the stud
studs
@@ConcordCarpenter I believe the OP was referring to the overspray that occurs when using this product. Tape the studs and when the job is complete just pull the tape and all the studs are clear of material and ready to have rock hung on them. A little bit of prep at the beginning will save even more time from not having to scrap as you go from the overspray.
@@shadowzedge5793 I know - he's right for regular spray foam guns that spray at 3000 PSI,, but these froth pks don't have that pressure and ts easy NOT to overspray if you're careful.
@@shadowzedge5793 He was and scrape as you go is WAY faster and uses no materials
Good info. New subscriber! I'm rehabing an old mobile with air leaks everywhere. It's also in the fire zone in Northern California so preventing smoke intrusion is very important. I'll check out your channel for more insulation tips. 👍
Great video. Thanks for posting!
2in has the best cost for dollar benefit. 1in is roughly 78% efficient. 2in is 86%, 3in is 90, 4 is 92, 5 is 93 and you increase 1% per in after 5in. So you see the largest efficacy increase to 2in, 3 if you have the money but you have to pay for a 2nd pass because you can't lay anymore than 2in at a time. But for you to pay for the extra inch to get the 4%, are you really going to see that back in heating expense over the years. Probably not.
I did my 1934 home’s rim joists this fall. I could see sunlight coming in and had constant insect issues
Well worth the $700 or so. I would say the benefits are as follows:
- helps to eliminate the “chimney effect” - I cannot believe how much calmer the air is in my main floor now
- it’s winter of course but I did not see any spider webs etc after spraying
- basement is warmer of course
- as ugly as the spray is it’s better looking than that terrible fiberglass
- home is much quieter. You wouldn’t think insulation in the rim joists would have such an impact on the sound of cars etc going by on the main floor but it definitely has deadened the ambient noise
The 600 pack was overkill for my 900+ sq ft home. I ended up wasting a massive amount of the material even going around the entire house at least twice. I could have easily used the smaller kit and been fine.
I didn’t use the same wide fan nozzle as in the video - too many small nooks to fill
I had some issues with quality of the kits and had to end up returning a few until I actually got a fully functional kit. Plastic is used in some areas where metal would have prevented any issues
As a DIYer I’m happy to answer any questions you have - fantastic stuff and saved me a few hundred over hiring it out, and will be more permanent than any cutting and caulking up reflective board.
I see a lot of new construction in my job (mortgage lending) and I’m dumbfounded that home builders are still just shoving batts into the rim joists and throwing up drywall.
They cut corners where they can for speed and savings. But as a homeowner, I’d gladly pay and extra few thousand more over 30 years. But production home builders don’t see it that way.
Hi, where can I find these packs for sale? I Need insulate a 40' ship container ASAP, my first quote was $16k it's crazy for me, with this quote I just decided to diy.
How many packs d u think I have to buy to fill all my walls and roof with 2" to 3"?
Thank you
@@katherinek.henkel8785 I want to know the same thing. I'm planning on doing a shipping container too.
If you drop the nozzle in acetone it will keep it reusable.
Great tip
just found out you cant use froth paks for thermal insulation in canada
Great video. Answered lots of questions I had . Thank you
A couple of mistakes in the video
To be a vapor barrier this product needs to be 2 inches, anything less is not a vapor barrier according to ESR-3052
Second is that all of these froth paks can only be installed 2 inches thick total! Never are they allowed to “fill the cavity” it would be a violation of the ESR-3052 and thus a building code violation.
ESR-3052 easily found on line for free just type in ESR-3052
This is the “bible” in building the code. If any document conflicts the ESR is the controlling document.
Why? What happens if you use it with 3-4 inches thickness?
Thanks, nice to know that there are do it yourself kits for small jobs such as you described.
This right here... Thanks Rob
It was recommended that I use this type of insulation in walls that were already sealed (drywalled finished rooms). I can't see how that would be optimal unless I was to remove all the dry wall and do it properly. What method would be optimal when dealing with a finished room/wall without having to remove the drywall? Cutting small to medium holes would not be a deal breaker and I can easily patch those.
Blow in insulation. Home Depot rents out the shredder and blower and you buy the packs. Make a 3 to 4 inch hole in between each stud at the top and blow it in
How easy is it to keep spraying rim joists without stopping for more than 30 seconds? Between moving yourself, ladders, lights or crawling in a crawlspace, I could see where there would be a lot of stopping and starting.
Donald Durand And I think they say that to protect themselves period I stopped for way longer than that when doing these projects and they work fine. I think it’s just because the nozzle can dry out
Get a buddy to help you move quickly, have two ladders or a longer platform that someone else moves while you are focusing on moving quickly
I agree with Dennis Pope, when I sprayed the rim joist on a basement suite for a customer I had a helper move the cans of spray foam behind me. Went nonstop and used one tip for the whole job.
Donald Durand we Definitely stopped linger to reposition- it’s a guideline. We had no issues
Hey Donald Durand, I was lucky. 7 foot ceiling, and a good helper, we thought it thru ahead of time and we were using the 600 froth pack. We went around three times to let it expand properly
He never stated what is the cost! The most important information!
Thank you, sir.
Great info - Thanks!
A very big problem with this stuff is that it's sooooo expensive!... Another question I have, is what happens when there is a water leak that get's behind the sheathing (and between the closed-cell foam)?
The ROI is great on these. It seems more expensive than it actually is. If you spray it correctly the water will go elsewhere since it will not penetrate around the foam
Very helpful! Hope I succeed! In my situation I have a large 1/2" gap in those rim joists between the outer siding and the outside beam. Crawlspace doesn't have a skirt yet but will probably next year. My plan is to put up a piece of 2x4 or similar, spray in the rim joist cavity and once cured, remove that 2x4 and put it under the next set of cavities. Should that work? That little bit of spray foam will be exposed directly to outside air until the skirt is built.
Good video, well presented and great information
I use foam board and fill in around the edges with can of spray foam. Lot cheaper way then using spray foam
Sawmiller Smith definitely cheaper and more DIY friendly, our next video and last video On insulation will be rigid board
I call this method cut and cobble.
@@chrisdaunhauer1757 As long as it works is what counts by what ever you call it. It will even make a wall more ridged .
@@chrisdaunhauer1757 Me? I call it a GREAT idea. But if I had to name it, it would be "Pepperoni & Sausage Pizza"
Same
Can it serve as a vapor barrier on crawlspace walls?
Yes
I think your supposed to wait until fully cured before the next lift (layer). The fully cure time is 1hr.
Great video! Thanks
I'm wanting to insulate my shed , is this stuff any good on metal sidings.
patriot7 yes
I used it for insulating my Sprinter van. Light weight, and reduces noise. It's been 8 years and the spray foam is still doing its job.
saxonsoldier67 What a great idea
a heads up for anyone in Canada, this froth pack does not meet vapour barrier requirements according to the Canadian building code. I found this out the hard way after an argument with the inspector and a phone call to the manufacture
Do you have any documentation from the? Id love to see it
BKlounge I don't doubt it. You guys have a lot of regulations
That was one of the worst applications I've ever seen. The proper way is to start by framing the pockets in the corners of stud to wall, effectively sealing around the studs. Then, fill in the field evenly. I noticed a lot of air gaps along the studs.
Yep
Thank you very informative video
Helpful video, thank you! Just wondering, if this is still the best way method and materials to use today as this was 4 years ago?
Ccsf is still best method
@@ConcordCarpenter thank you
Thanks duder...
I have a few questions:
I'm remodeling a 1970's travel trailer that is structurally insulated. After peeling off the old wall panels(there was sections of water damage) I need an adhesive for the new panels. Sure, I could use PL glue, or foam glue, but I'm looking for 100% coverage. There's some voids, pocks, and more than a few gouges (my falt 😅) I'd like to fill. Why 100% coverage? You wouldn't butter 30% of a tile, would you? These panels add **structure**
I know i could probably use expanding foam adhesive, but that's a One Inch bead, I need a Six Inch bead😓.
get some sort of gklue or mastic you cab trowel on
can I spray on the tar paper that this 1956 house has under the firing strips that added 2x2s to or should I remove the felt and spray directly on to the brick?
@ A Concord Carpenter/ToolBoxBuzz Would this foam be suitable for insulating crawl space or it can't be used there?
yes
Could I use this on drywall? Probably too wet huh.
You can. It doesn't bleed through at all.
Great video as always. Can this pack be bought world wide. I’m from Denmark. Best regards
The hotter chemical the better!
I m looking at doing my pole barn with this,. What's your opinion? I m in North East Ohio and the building is 30×40 with 8' ceilings
I'm just a handy Joe Nobody but I would hire it out if you want spray. I sprayed a mock outhouse built over my well. Messy expensive pain.
When I insulated the south wall on my steel shed, I used rigid sheets and sealed edges with spray foam cans. For perfection sheets need be cut small enough for you to properly seal edges as thick as sheets. I bought sheets secondhand and I can't compare my way to hired bc only company near me couldn't calculate sq footage. Given no simple math, I deemed unworthy to hire.
Can I use this in a 24x50 metal garage? I have a gap of about 1/8’’ where the roof peak meets would it seal it up?
is there a system that covers more area , that is for sale to the public ....
I appreciate you saying "guys and gals" because although I'm a female, I do most of the DIY projects in and around my home.
Need to spray an 3000 square feet area how many do I need for DIY
Good video! Will this stick to concrete basement walls?
Yes it will
Can you share the tool you use to shave foam flush to studs
AI use a hand saw [old-school] or a recip saw with a long blade. I'm sure the CCSF guys have a specialty tool they use
You really shouldn’t share shaving implements.
Hi, where can I find these packs for sale? I Need insulate a 40' ship container ASAP, my first quote was $16k it's crazy for me, with this quote I just decided to diy.
How many packs d u think I have to buy to fill all my walls and roof with 2" to 3"?
Thank you
can you spray onto concrete ceilings and walls?
Yes, make sure they are clean and dry.
Very nice video
Thanks
Can you spray the ceiling or will it drip down?
You can in lifts
I'm thinking about using this on a quonset hut style metal building to help keep out excessive heat in the summer. Any advice?
@@billcoty9124 I can ask my ccsf sub what he thinks - I’m thinking if you layer properly it’ll build up nicely, and work out
@@ConcordCarpenter Thanks. Please let me know what he thinks
Can the spray surface be damped at the time of application?
No. Water issues should be dealt with first before any type of insulating or else mold will grow.
Why is it damp? If it's condensation foam will help to stop that problem but the surface needs to be dry before application. High power fans and a dehumidifier. If the problem is water infiltration than cracks need to be fixed and water needs to shed away from the foundation on the exterior, sloping down away from the house, gutters and downspouts.
Is this foam water based? I'm looking to reinsulate my home that was built in 1947, from the outside as I'm taking the old siding off this spring/summer. I've read where spray foams shrink up to 2 inches, so I'm concerned about spray foaming my entire house only to have the foam shrink, thus giving my house an R value of 24, with this spray foam, down to who knows what value within 2 years or so.
Closed cell foam is NOT water based. Open cell foam is.
I never understand why people spray foam sideways. I spray paint and textures on interior homes. Seems it would be much more efficient to spray length ways.
Good video Rob. A Happy Holidays to you and the rest of the crew! The only thing I don’t like about spray foam is if I add an outlet or repair a electric circuit or plumbing. Any suggestions on using spray foam and dealing with electrical and plumbing?
Ron
I am a spray foam are you basically just have to cut out a channel for your wiring or whatever and then it Hass to be spray formed again
Do you need a vapor barrier if you're insulating a basement when spraying on the foam?
Closed cell foam acts as a vapor barrier as well as an insulator.
@@paulchoate1 thanks
@@williec.1540 I believe it has to be at least 2" or 3" thick though...you can verify that with a licensed installer.
What size tank would you recommend for a 16×32 shop building??
Does anyone know a cost comparison of getting your house sprayed from a company to just buying these and doing it yourself? Do they get a bulk discount so between their costs+ profit, would be equal in cost to me buying 10 of these to do the same job?
Even small jobs with a spray foam company are expensive usually at $1000 or more this is definitely cheaper
So I have a crawl space immediately beneath the front door entrance area. The caulk job was brittle and there were fairly large areas where cement was missing upon closer inspection. I first applied Sika Self-Leveling Sealant on the outside area. In the crawl space, I applied Sika Self-Leveling Sealant followed by Quilrete Hydraulic Cement since there were large areas which needed to be sealed. After the Sika Self-Leveling Sealant & Quikrete Hydraulic Cement cured I applied two coats of DryLok Paint. It has been three weeks since the leak was discovered. No physical leak has been noted since as I setup a Nest Camera to monitor the crawlspace area as the remnants of Hurricane Ida passed through our area two days ago. However, being an HVAC company owner and also perpetually curious I decided to use a Fluke Thermal Imager to confirm no discoloration of crawlspace wall against areas considered “dry” (I.e., wall opposite crawlspace where water was never witnessed reaching). My water proofing efforts passed that test. However, here is the curious part, when I used the General MM8 moisture meter to check the wall it reported 100% wet even though it lacked the feel of being wet. I called DryLok and talked to technical support who notified me that DryLok prevents water from infiltrating but not necessarily water vapor. Hence, the 100% reading when using the Moisture Meter. So I am curious if I were to use this DAP Touch ‘N Go spray foam would it create a complete 100% vapor barrier which wouldn’t register as “wet” when using a moisture meter?
Anyone notice the price of these went through the roof recently and are out of stock everywhere. At least wood came down lol
I thought you have to use a breathable membrane for moisture insulation
When insulating in a cold climate, you need a barrier to vapour on the warm side of the insulation. Any warm air that gets past the insulation would come in contact with the cold outer sheathing and condensation will form. A breathable but waterproof membrane is used on the cold side to shed water that might penetrate your siding but allow any moisture that might accidentally get behind it to evaporate and escape.
How many "passes" can you "layer"?
How’s the longevity of staying bound to metal shop walls?
I have same question. following this
Can you work overhead between ceiling joists or will it sag too much?
you can but you have to layer
Can this be used on an uneven concrete rock wall in the basement just to close the gaps and cavities.
Yes
Make sure its clean and dry.
As usual, outstanding video. What is the average cost for one kit?
which do you recommend for a concrete house in the tropics?
I was told by the product manufacturers that it's not recommend to spry overhead. Makes a huge mess and may not stick. Have any comments?
the cans when full, have enough pressure to throw chemicals up, but once half empty, no
so maybe start your job by spraying up, then use the rest of foam elsewhere
Good info. Can i fill a poly 55 drum with this closed cell for a dock? How much can be sprayed at once? allowing 15 min to cool.
It should work, you just need enough drums so you can keep working for 15 minutes before going back to the first drum. Also it would cost almost $100 per drum.
Sure if you want to spend a fortune.
Why not just fill the stud cavity completely with closed cell foam? Is cost the only reason? Thank you!
YEs cost, but also sise of project sometime prohibits a CCSF company from coming out
The amount of labor cost to fill and shave a cavity with closed cell will almost double the cost and offers very little performance increase. It is done where we don't have a 3"+ depth to apply the closed cell. Just 2" Will stop 97% of all heat flow and moisture travel with most brands of closed cell.
This stuff scares me with potentially ongoing fumes being released over time. I had a motorhome I owned for 10 years and it was always releasing fumes on a hot day that burned my eyes and lungs. What have you experienced with this product?
Is it R20.
And it only costs 10 times what other insulation costs.
Sort of like owning a Pellet Grill. Uses 6 times as much dinero to operate.
And that cost addition will result in much lower energy costs which turn into savings. The ROI will be different for each area depending on costs. For electric heating some areas I've seen as low as 4¢/kwh to as high as 27¢/kwh.
@@shadowzedge5793 my point was other insulation is more cost effective. The price of the two part kit is $600. Sheet foam cut to fit and calked if necessary would be 1/10 the cost.
is it good for a bus
Don’t see why not
How would you fill the spaces so you have more sound absorption?
Kraig Klopp fill cavity full
Use the closed cell spray foam first, then rock wool batt for the sound absorption. Closed cell spray foam is a good sound reflector, not absorber.
Great video! I was unaware of the DIY option. Can you speak to the fire resistance of the finished installation? I'm interesting in spraying the rim joists in my 130 year old basement but wonder about its fire resistance when done. And if one side of the rim is effectively hermetically sealed because of the foam does this increase the chance of rotting within the rim because it will never dry to the inside but likely have the moisture levels of the outside cavity air? many thanks!
It won’t need to dry toward the interior since the foam is preventing moisture on that end. It’ll dry (if needed) to the outside of the rim, which is ideal. Humid air will it whatever is outside but also dry that way. This is the same reason why concrete slab homes with no basement can exist
Bob those problems are possible if you have lots of water leaking inward. But yes you must cover this material with drywall to meet fire code.
I'm more familiar with the Tiger foam and Green foam diy kits and they both have E-84, a Fire-Rated SPF Class 1 fire retardant.
What is the fire retardancy of this foam?
Thx
Any time
Can you cover hvac ducts with the foam?
Yes
What about filling concrete block cavities?
Eps foam pellets or perlite.