They bi-pod is less likely to affect accuracy if it is not attached to the barrel. Your have a nice rail on the hand guard for that. Glad to see folks tricking out the G3. Thanks 😁for the video
The difference between 308 and 7.62x51 Nato is pretty crucial in alot of rifles. Unlike other Nato rds which are more powerful, the 308 hunting rd is the more powerful round in this case. Just thought I would mention.
Correct, in contrast to .223 and 5.56, with 5.56 actually being the more powerful round. The rifle can handle either, but I prefer personal the 7.62x51, it's the one I'm most familiar with, and with the rifle being semi auto, I like to go back to something I know.
Really think you'd like the Spuhr stock a lot better. Brings everything in line so eliminates the need for a cheek riser and since everything is in line with your shoulder it actually helps reduce muzzle rise and felt recoil. I've got one on my post sample G3 and in full auto it makes everything so much more controllable.
A few points: 308 and 7.62NATO Cartridge are the same damn size. The pressures are meassured differently. Look at a modern reloading manual or more technical info. Do your homework if you reload. Get your tripod off your barrel. Its a freeflosting barrel, the forestock is suspended a slight distance.from the barrel on all sides, or should be. The PTR clones ive handled have warping from where the surplus G3 cocking tube is welded to the new PTR receiver. PTR made the barrels and receivers for the Century C308s. So some relief cutting of the skinny forestocks may be required to clear the barrel. Putting weight anywhere on the barrel while firing will cause inaccuracy. The bolt group assembly is not cross compatible with later G3/PTR parts. They are 60 year old surus parts out of Spain's CETME rifles.Part of your double firing might be firing pin related, it might be you trying to hold the trigger back while firing. The only incidental "double-tap" i experienced in any of my three G3 clones was from holding the trigger back instead of "press-release" as i fired. Im not.braggimg, i dont curre tly own 3. I had a Greek made clone in the 1990s, and have had 2 PTRs since then. I handled and stripped a friends C308 and walked him through it, noting how different it was from my PTR. He sold it. We noted the same ultimate tightness in the butt-stock's end-cap fit over the receiver. Too tight to field strip really. The bolt group CAN be forced into the reciever backwards to release the rollers, and free up/extend the bolt head for normal, forward insertion. I dont like this. The later developed G3 bolthead/bolt carrier/locking piece design is easier to work with. I havent had cross-pins come loose in my G3 clone trigger groups all of which were semi-auto, later HK designed versions. I know i hated how the steel safrty lever detent spring was so tight it scarred the plastic PTR/C308 Triflgger Hoising/grip. The hammering on the Butt-Stock pins with the magazine is totally gorrilla, man. Dont do it. Thst magazine is aluminum, thinner and lighter thsn the actual CETME magazines which are heavier, curved, and steel. Aluminum G3 mags weigh about 5 ounces empty. Steel G3 mags weigh about 10 ounces. Both G3 msgs use strait walls, CRTME mags are slightly curved and only have two stamoed bumps on each side to orevent magazine over insertion. Aluminum magazines have all the ridges and are busier. That is to increase rigidity. They were consodered essentially disposable. They G3 steel and aluminum mags share springs and followers, and in many cases bottom plates. You can swap parts between them as long as the bottom plates are the same design. Dont use the Thermold magazines. Theyre weak. Had several with my first G3 clone. The sides bulge when fully loaded, and can fracture in cold climates. I had a few failures with my Greek made G3 clone, im not sure if it was ammo, magazine, or gun caused. Finally...accuracy. No point in using a telescope that sees out to 1000 meters if your typical group is 4MOA. MOA is Minite of Angle, and yes, it is a measure of anguksre disoersion, so the dislersion doesnt chsnge st different rsnge, it remains a funcuint of a degree, in this case one 60th of one degree. One 60th of one degree is one minute of angle. It works out really nicely to be 1 inch at 100yards. So 1MOA. If your.gun is capable of shooting 1 inch grouos at 100 yards, yiu have 1MOA dispersion. That ratio of 1 inch per 100 yards will remain constant, so at 200yards, it will be 2inch group. At 300 yards it will be 3 inch group. At 600 yards, that will be a 6 inch group. Now say your rifle is a 4MOA gun...multiply all those groups by 4. So at 600 yards, with a 4MOA gun, your group will be 24inches. That's borderline completenmissing a human torso with every shot. So dont bother trying to be a sniper. You will burn through your typical 100rds of combat loadout without hitting anyone at 600 yards, and then you have a realyy cool German designed DMR rifle that weighs 12 pounds, with no ammo. How to improve mechanicsl accuracy: 1:fire lapping a rough bore can help. Routinely the cheaper US made bsrrels for.theze G3 guns are made from 4140ChroMoly Steel, which is okay, and rifled routinely. But they are not lapped. And so are not great. Theynsre also not chromelined. Real G3s were Cold Hammer Forged barrels, and had much better barrel life, but you got the accuracy you got. The easy way to improve accuracy in non-CHF, non-chromelined barrels is to firelsp the bsrrel. Tubbs made kits for 308 a few yesrs ago. its a kit of 50 heavy bullets (175gr FMJBT) treated with 5 different grit polishing compounds ranging from relatively rough (for the purpose) to medium to fine polishing. If you dont do reloading, find a friend who knows what he's doing to load some up. Follow all instructions. Ive seen an improvement from about 3MOA in my 2 PTRs down to 1.5- 2MOA. Your results may vary. The problem with the PTR rifles is some times you get a good rifle out of the box. Maybe its all good and shoots tight. Sometimes little things are off. Sometimes its a dumpster fire. PTR is notorious for inconsidtent QA. But PTR takes care of their customers. Complicating THAT is the Century Arms parts, and the 60 year old, first-version G3 pattern parts made by CETME inside these C308s. Also, hand-loading rounds may help accuracy. Stay away from Russian 308. Stay away from Winchester. I hate to.say thst, bit Winchester's ammo line 308 are junk. Inconsistent bullet seat depth, short case length, light case weight, indicating thinner walls, and inconsistent bullet seating/crimping. Check the.dtuff you buy. If they balk because you want to open the box and inspect the rounds, go somewhere else. Because stores dont take back defective ammo. You have to deal with the factory, or unload it all and reload it with components that are made to spec. And for the price of 308 today, that's ridiculous. Good luck.
Thank you for all of that info, I have read through thoroughly. This is not a "ask for help post", it's a review based on my specific uses of the rifle. This is UA-cam, not Facebook, so the other guys in your group aren't going to see this comment, just me, and anyone who watches this video and actually takes the time to scroll down through the comments section. First of all, yes, I am holding it back, and it works just fine, the secondary seer had wearing and was casuong it to not full engage, so my method of firing was not the reason, it was infact a mechanical failure. Also attributed was the muzzle break I was using at the time did not create enough gasses for the blowback operation to do as it was intended. Second of all it is not a free float barrel, the front sight post secures to the barrel, and the charging handle tubing as well, and... also to the foregrop as well, so no it is not free-floating as you originally said, it is hard pointed onto the upper reciever both front and back. Thirdly, the bipod on barrel is not effecting accuracy negatively at all, I fire the rifle at a slow enough rate that it doesn't effect much if at all, the rifle may have been made to just hammer down on the trigger, but it is not it's only purpose. Fourthly, it's not a telescope, I have plenty of scope with plenty of rifle my guy. I have gotten plenty if accuracy and I'm more than happy with the way the rifle performs. I'm not shooting dimes at a grand mind you, but my aim isn't to have a rifle that does such a thing... if you know you know. I was simply giving a review on the rifle and nothing more, I literally am okay with what I got and the way I utilize it, but thank you for your time and long windedness. Take a breath and have a seat before you pass out.
I mentioned everything i did to inform. What accuracy do you get? I admit, the last time i handled a C308 was 2018, but the SAR 8 I owned, as well as the 2 PTR91s I owned are in fact freefloated barrels. Perhaps that was another upgrade from the CETME Model 58 to the G3a3.
To redeploy the bolt ,Put the bolt carrier assembly in Backwards in the receiver and give it good shove . , Also if your butstock is ahard to remove, lock the BC to the rear with the charging handle. ,Just watch out for the BC to shot out, Easy to do. You Do Not need to remove the bolt lock bar to field strip. Take care. Been using the CETME/HK system for some time.
Also easiest way to unlock that bolt without having to use a flat head and scratching stuff up is to squeeze hard on the rollers while pulling the bolt forward away from the carrier. For an even smoother operating rifle use slip 2000 EWG (Extreme Weapons Grease) Lasts longer than gun oil/lube and doesnt collect dirt or carbon, so less cleaning.
Everyone has their things man, if you have one in full auto and set up for auto it's not going to be the same as one meant for LRM, such as this one, I would be interested in seeing a video of that full auto though, that sounds legit.
I'm looking for one last rifle I like ak only but is this thing worth buying?? Does it have that certain balance and reliability? I know thereare mor accurate stuff but is it worth 1600??
@gregblankenship1184 I don't reload at all when it comes to Semi Autos, there is too much of a risk of error in even one round that could damage or destroy a weapon very rapidly. I always use a quality inspected round, you can do the same with reloads, but the benefit of doing that yourself just doesn't overshadow the time you have to put into it.
@@bhtshq3033 does it chew up brass? I have literally watched tens of thousands of rounds being fired add my range that have been reloaded in are being run through semi-autos. If you watch Jerry miculek videos you will see him firing thousands and thousands of reloads through his semi-autos. I totally understand an abundance of caution. And, to each his own comfort level. I do appreciate you posting the video. I have one of those rifles and it is good to see the content.
@gregblankenship1184 awesome, I personally do not reload anything I shoot through a semi auto as stated before. I am very cautious because the amount that i fire i just cant reload, i wouldnt have time for anythingelss like spending time with my family. It doesn't chew up my brass, I don't know what everyone else's experience is with the rifle.
You must really love the c308 platform to transform it into something i wish i had also. I have a cetme c308 i got used. It shots great. Came fully loaded.i have like 30 magazines for it i keep loaded
I got one it dosen't cycle worth a dam company didn't this is new from the company thier a piece of crap don't buy anything from centery they don't want to stand behind thier products ❤😂🎉😢😮😅😊C.S.A.BABY
@MichaelSchisler-jx3uc that's surprising. I wonder what version you got, because they changed it somewhere around 2018-19 I wanna say? I have the original version as it was.
This is a very nice rifle I like how you put it all together. It has some serious deep jungle sniper vibes to it it is nice.
They bi-pod is less likely to affect accuracy if it is not attached to the barrel. Your have a nice rail on the hand guard for that. Glad to see folks tricking out the G3. Thanks 😁for the video
We saw no drop in accuracy at all attaching it to the barrel, it seemed to plateau more than anything, no rise and no fall.
@@bhtshq3033 Awesome!
I suggest a drinking game in which a shot is consumed every this guy says “so on and so forth”!
You would die in the first 5 minutes
The difference between 308 and 7.62x51 Nato is pretty crucial in alot of rifles. Unlike other Nato rds which are more powerful, the 308 hunting rd is the more powerful round in this case. Just thought I would mention.
Correct, in contrast to .223 and 5.56, with 5.56 actually being the more powerful round. The rifle can handle either, but I prefer personal the 7.62x51, it's the one I'm most familiar with, and with the rifle being semi auto, I like to go back to something I know.
The trunnion on that Cetme is made of a 1/4 pound of 9310 heat treated steel. It can easily handle even the hottest .308 loads.
this guy just bought all the ebay stuff he could get
Actually only the buttstock and scope I found on ebay, but all the rest of it either came from HK or somewhere else reputable
Does it really matter if it works?
@@d-dawg9449that dude is just a hater because it doesn't matter as long as it works
Really think you'd like the Spuhr stock a lot better. Brings everything in line so eliminates the need for a cheek riser and since everything is in line with your shoulder it actually helps reduce muzzle rise and felt recoil. I've got one on my post sample G3 and in full auto it makes everything so much more controllable.
A few points:
308 and 7.62NATO Cartridge are the same damn size. The pressures are meassured differently. Look at a modern reloading manual or more technical info. Do your homework if you reload.
Get your tripod off your barrel. Its a freeflosting barrel, the forestock is suspended a slight distance.from the barrel on all sides, or should be. The PTR clones ive handled have warping from where the surplus G3 cocking tube is welded to the new PTR receiver. PTR made the barrels and receivers for the Century C308s. So some relief cutting of the skinny forestocks may be required to clear the barrel. Putting weight anywhere on the barrel while firing will cause inaccuracy.
The bolt group assembly is not cross compatible with later G3/PTR parts. They are 60 year old surus parts out of Spain's CETME rifles.Part of your double firing might be firing pin related, it might be you trying to hold the trigger back while firing. The only incidental "double-tap" i experienced in any of my three G3 clones was from holding the trigger back instead of "press-release" as i fired. Im not.braggimg, i dont curre tly own 3. I had a Greek made clone in the 1990s, and have had 2 PTRs since then. I handled and stripped a friends C308 and walked him through it, noting how different it was from my PTR. He sold it. We noted the same ultimate tightness in the butt-stock's end-cap fit over the receiver. Too tight to field strip really. The bolt group CAN be forced into the reciever backwards to release the rollers, and free up/extend the bolt head for normal, forward insertion. I dont like this. The later developed G3 bolthead/bolt carrier/locking piece design is easier to work with.
I havent had cross-pins come loose in my G3 clone trigger groups all of which were semi-auto, later HK designed versions. I know i hated how the steel safrty lever detent spring was so tight it scarred the plastic PTR/C308 Triflgger Hoising/grip.
The hammering on the Butt-Stock pins with the magazine is totally gorrilla, man. Dont do it. Thst magazine is aluminum, thinner and lighter thsn the actual CETME magazines which are heavier, curved, and steel. Aluminum G3 mags weigh about 5 ounces empty. Steel G3 mags weigh about 10 ounces. Both G3 msgs use strait walls, CRTME mags are slightly curved and only have two stamoed bumps on each side to orevent magazine over insertion. Aluminum magazines have all the ridges and are busier. That is to increase rigidity. They were consodered essentially disposable. They G3 steel and aluminum mags share springs and followers, and in many cases bottom plates. You can swap parts between them as long as the bottom plates are the same design. Dont use the Thermold magazines. Theyre weak. Had several with my first G3 clone. The sides bulge when fully loaded, and can fracture in cold climates. I had a few failures with my Greek made G3 clone, im not sure if it was ammo, magazine, or gun caused.
Finally...accuracy. No point in using a telescope that sees out to 1000 meters if your typical group is 4MOA. MOA is Minite of Angle, and yes, it is a measure of anguksre disoersion, so the dislersion doesnt chsnge st different rsnge, it remains a funcuint of a degree, in this case one 60th of one degree. One 60th of one degree is one minute of angle. It works out really nicely to be 1 inch at 100yards. So 1MOA. If your.gun is capable of shooting 1 inch grouos at 100 yards, yiu have 1MOA dispersion. That ratio of 1 inch per 100 yards will remain constant, so at 200yards, it will be 2inch group. At 300 yards it will be 3 inch group. At 600 yards, that will be a 6 inch group. Now say your rifle is a 4MOA gun...multiply all those groups by 4. So at 600 yards, with a 4MOA gun, your group will be 24inches. That's borderline completenmissing a human torso with every shot. So dont bother trying to be a sniper. You will burn through your typical 100rds of combat loadout without hitting anyone at 600 yards, and then you have a realyy cool German designed DMR rifle that weighs 12 pounds, with no ammo.
How to improve mechanicsl accuracy:
1:fire lapping a rough bore can help. Routinely the cheaper US made bsrrels for.theze G3 guns are made from 4140ChroMoly Steel, which is okay, and rifled routinely. But they are not lapped. And so are not great. Theynsre also not chromelined. Real G3s were Cold Hammer Forged barrels, and had much better barrel life, but you got the accuracy you got. The easy way to improve accuracy in non-CHF, non-chromelined barrels is to firelsp the bsrrel. Tubbs made kits for 308 a few yesrs ago. its a kit of 50 heavy bullets (175gr FMJBT) treated with 5 different grit polishing compounds ranging from relatively rough (for the purpose) to medium to fine polishing. If you dont do reloading, find a friend who knows what he's doing to load some up. Follow all instructions. Ive seen an improvement from about 3MOA in my 2 PTRs down to 1.5- 2MOA. Your results may vary. The problem with the PTR rifles is some times you get a good rifle out of the box. Maybe its all good and shoots tight. Sometimes little things are off. Sometimes its a dumpster fire. PTR is notorious for inconsidtent QA. But PTR takes care of their customers. Complicating THAT is the Century Arms parts, and the 60 year old, first-version G3 pattern parts made by CETME inside these C308s.
Also, hand-loading rounds may help accuracy. Stay away from Russian 308. Stay away from Winchester. I hate to.say thst, bit Winchester's ammo line 308 are junk. Inconsistent bullet seat depth, short case length, light case weight, indicating thinner walls, and inconsistent bullet seating/crimping. Check the.dtuff you buy. If they balk because you want to open the box and inspect the rounds, go somewhere else. Because stores dont take back defective ammo. You have to deal with the factory, or unload it all and reload it with components that are made to spec. And for the price of 308 today, that's ridiculous.
Good luck.
Thank you for all of that info, I have read through thoroughly. This is not a "ask for help post", it's a review based on my specific uses of the rifle. This is UA-cam, not Facebook, so the other guys in your group aren't going to see this comment, just me, and anyone who watches this video and actually takes the time to scroll down through the comments section.
First of all, yes, I am holding it back, and it works just fine, the secondary seer had wearing and was casuong it to not full engage, so my method of firing was not the reason, it was infact a mechanical failure. Also attributed was the muzzle break I was using at the time did not create enough gasses for the blowback operation to do as it was intended.
Second of all it is not a free float barrel, the front sight post secures to the barrel, and the charging handle tubing as well, and... also to the foregrop as well, so no it is not free-floating as you originally said, it is hard pointed onto the upper reciever both front and back.
Thirdly, the bipod on barrel is not effecting accuracy negatively at all, I fire the rifle at a slow enough rate that it doesn't effect much if at all, the rifle may have been made to just hammer down on the trigger, but it is not it's only purpose.
Fourthly, it's not a telescope, I have plenty of scope with plenty of rifle my guy. I have gotten plenty if accuracy and I'm more than happy with the way the rifle performs. I'm not shooting dimes at a grand mind you, but my aim isn't to have a rifle that does such a thing... if you know you know.
I was simply giving a review on the rifle and nothing more, I literally am okay with what I got and the way I utilize it, but thank you for your time and long windedness.
Take a breath and have a seat before you pass out.
I mentioned everything i did to inform.
What accuracy do you get?
I admit, the last time i handled a C308 was 2018, but the SAR 8 I owned, as well as the 2 PTR91s I owned are in fact freefloated barrels. Perhaps that was another upgrade from the CETME Model 58 to the G3a3.
I can shoot a paper plate at 200yds if that helps? So again good enough for what I use it for.
@@bhtshq3033are you still active? I have a couple questions with my build and you sound like you know alot
@@bhtshq3033 hey man, how did you replace that polymer lower with the metal one?
To redeploy the bolt ,Put the bolt carrier assembly in Backwards in the receiver and give it good shove . , Also if your butstock is ahard to remove, lock the BC to the rear with the charging handle. ,Just watch out for the BC to shot out, Easy to do. You Do Not need to remove the bolt lock bar to field strip. Take care. Been using the CETME/HK system for some time.
Also easiest way to unlock that bolt without having to use a flat head and scratching stuff up is to squeeze hard on the rollers while pulling the bolt forward away from the carrier. For an even smoother operating rifle use slip 2000 EWG (Extreme Weapons Grease) Lasts longer than gun oil/lube and doesnt collect dirt or carbon, so less cleaning.
Everyone has their things man, if you have one in full auto and set up for auto it's not going to be the same as one meant for LRM, such as this one, I would be interested in seeing a video of that full auto though, that sounds legit.
I'm looking for one last rifle I like ak only but is this thing worth buying?? Does it have that certain balance and reliability? I know thereare mor accurate stuff but is it worth 1600??
Where did you get your steel trigger housing? Trying to find one that’s been modified but no luck.
HK Parts has them
Is the brake pinned and welded.
@@billypoynter6096 no? Doesn't have to be.
does it chew up brass? Do you reload any from it?
@gregblankenship1184 I don't reload at all when it comes to Semi Autos, there is too much of a risk of error in even one round that could damage or destroy a weapon very rapidly. I always use a quality inspected round, you can do the same with reloads, but the benefit of doing that yourself just doesn't overshadow the time you have to put into it.
@@bhtshq3033 does it chew up brass? I have literally watched tens of thousands of rounds being fired add my range that have been reloaded in are being run through semi-autos. If you watch Jerry miculek videos you will see him firing thousands and thousands of reloads through his semi-autos. I totally understand an abundance of caution. And, to each his own comfort level. I do appreciate you posting the video. I have one of those rifles and it is good to see the content.
@gregblankenship1184 awesome, I personally do not reload anything I shoot through a semi auto as stated before. I am very cautious because the amount that i fire i just cant reload, i wouldnt have time for anythingelss like spending time with my family. It doesn't chew up my brass, I don't know what everyone else's experience is with the rifle.
@@bhtshq3033 thanks for getting back with me.
Strike Force
You must really love the c308 platform to transform it into something i wish i had also. I have a cetme c308 i got used. It shots great. Came fully loaded.i have like 30 magazines for it i keep loaded
If you do not own a rifle like this, your comment is useless.
I got one it dosen't cycle worth a dam company didn't this is new from the company thier a piece of crap don't buy anything from centery they don't want to stand behind thier products ❤😂🎉😢😮😅😊C.S.A.BABY
@MichaelSchisler-jx3uc that's surprising. I wonder what version you got, because they changed it somewhere around 2018-19 I wanna say? I have the original version as it was.