When your walls are out that much, it's best to either pull down the drywall and shim them back out to plumb.or use drywall compound to flatten them out before you hang the cabinets. I prefer the first method because there may be structural issues behind the walls that you don't know about. Some of these studs will twist and bow over time and that reduces their load bearing capability. This also gives you the opportunity to replace the insulation which very likely has some mouse tunnels through it in very old houses. I think my kitchen walls might have had more mouse feces than insulation when I pulled the cabinets/walls down.
yeah i had it down to studs and purposefully didn't reframe the inside of the wall because I knew it would be hid by the window trim. The wall was like 3/4 of an inch out of plumb so there's no way to do that with drywall compound. The house was built in 1870 so everything is out of whack from settling over 150 years. But the exterior studs are true 2x4s and very strong.
@@BorsellinoHomeServices You showed real life situations. Like when it's out of plum. I have an old house and I used what you said to do. Also I liked that you showed how to hang the cabinet by yourself. Really appreciated it!
This house may be old, but my house was built in 2018 and my family moved in on December 17, 2018 and the walls are still not plumb. It may not even be just human error but also the movement of the ground. I love that cutting tool by the way! Ha~
Fixing to hang mine on unplum walls and this helped, and for the gap I hope mines small enough by time gets to window because it's about a 3/4 inch gap on top.... House built 1891 aye. Thanks for the great video :)
You could always add a moulding. These cabinets had a prefinished panel that went on the side that was supposed to be 3/4" wider than the cabinet so I could scribe it, but the cabinet guy didnt do that!!! Luckily I butt my window trim right up to it and it covered the gap completely! Phew!!! If you're gapped at the top you have the opposite problem as me though. I would recommend pre-installing shims on the wall at the top that are plumb to the bottom of where the cabinet hits the wall. Then you just hold it up and screw it in! Make sure you use long enough screws to catch the studs nice and good!!!
You better get a new level if you can't trust the bubble. Although s Stabila makes awesome levels and I consider them the best, an inaccurate level can be bad for a project. Good show!
Yeah I always try to double check levels. They ride around in a truck and can get banged around or they accidentally get knocked over. Stabilas are really expensive so it's easier to flip it around and always double check than to just rely on a bubble expecting it to be good.
depends on what size screw you're using. It's more of a pilot bit than anything. Probably 1/8" or so. I've definitely installed cabinets without predrilling but if you predrill it does make it a little easier and cleaner
these cabinets get a finished panel on the side and bottom that takes care of it. not all cabinets do though, these are custom. You could add a simple cove molding or flat stock to cover the gap on the side. In my case these butt right up to the window trim so they will be covered. Same thing on the bottom, although you wouldn't ever notice the gap on the bottom unless you bend down and look up and the bottom of the cabinet. In fact I don't have the bottom panels on yet and I can't see the gap at all and i sit at the island that looks right at it every day
why is 2.5 better??? In my instance the cabinet is 1.25" thick (1/2" back + 3/4" screwing strip) and then 1/2" drywall = 1.75"". If I use 2 1/2" screws that only goes into the stud 3/4" and the first 1/2" of the screw is tapered so that's not much grabbing. I think 3" is way better.
@@BorsellinoHomeServices Charging by the hour penalizes those who are efficient, and know what they are doing. Think about it, what's you incentive for busting your butt to get a job done? Never by the hour, always by the box. Minimum $150 a box for install.
@@mkl5448 I've always done my work hourly and make a good living. However, I rarely install cabinets anymore so I'm surely not as fast as someone who exclusively does kitchen cabinets for a living. So do you charge $150 per box and then extra for the under cabinet trim, side panels, toe kicks, door install and adjustments, hardware etc, or is that all included in the per box price?
@@BorsellinoHomeServices I hear you, if by the hour works for you then rock on my friend. I transitioned to by the job over the years, but I always have an hourly rate in my head when I'm figuring jobs. So I charge $150 to $200 per box, which depends on the size of cabinet, and whether it's all wood, or a bunch of pressboard garbage. That includes removal, toe kick, layout, ordering, time spent figuring things out, any scribe moldings as well. Usually I will do the appliance hook up's as well. It ends up around $50 to $60 an hour, and everyone stays happy. I do maybe 4 per year and never had anyone put off by my numbers. I have seen some insanely high estimates for kitchens, I'm not trying to get rich off of people, just make a decent living based on my skill set. Nice job with the videos and keep up the good work.
I'm not sure. I've often wondered that question myself considering how much plates and stuff actually weigh. I have yet to have a cabinet rip off the wall. I'm sure it also depends on the construction. These were custom built with plywood and screws and made to hold a lot of weight. Some of the cheap ones you get from big box stores are built with staples and particleboard. Huge difference
in my case... the window trim. The kitchen cabinet panels were supposed to be 1 inch deeper for scribing but they weren't!!! All the other outer panels in the kitchen have extra for scribing and of course the one where I needed it the most didn't..........
@@BorsellinoHomeServices what if you don’t have that option? I mean must window trim is never that wide. I’m in this situation myself with a gap right beside a window, it’s our own kitchen and wasn’t sure how to cover it.
@@Gazooo29 what about a flat piece of wood matching the cabinets flat against it. Maybe 1/4" x 1" or something like that. This is actually my kitchen too so I knew this was going to be an issue. There were 2 windows on this wall and I put 1 large window in so that the trim would go right up to the cabinets. My house has 1x4 trim so it is 3/4 thick which easily covered my gap
I wish you showed how to hang the corner cabinet too! Otherwise, thank you for showing how to shim. Everyone says to shim, but don’t show literally how to do it
do it the same way! just put a board on both walls on your level line and set the cabinet up there. Actually on a corner cabinet doing that it will stay easier! The hard part is if the top has to be shimmed. Luckily on this job I was shimming the bottom. The top can be done it can just be a little more difficult
![Scribing A Cabinet To A Wall [Bent's Woodworking]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hzi5V05eMlM/mqdefault.jpg)
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When your walls are out that much, it's best to either pull down the drywall and shim them back out to plumb.or use drywall compound to flatten them out before you hang the cabinets. I prefer the first method because there may be structural issues behind the walls that you don't know about. Some of these studs will twist and bow over time and that reduces their load bearing capability. This also gives you the opportunity to replace the insulation which very likely has some mouse tunnels through it in very old houses. I think my kitchen walls might have had more mouse feces than insulation when I pulled the cabinets/walls down.
yeah i had it down to studs and purposefully didn't reframe the inside of the wall because I knew it would be hid by the window trim. The wall was like 3/4 of an inch out of plumb so there's no way to do that with drywall compound. The house was built in 1870 so everything is out of whack from settling over 150 years. But the exterior studs are true 2x4s and very strong.
Yup, the dance at the end got me subscribing haha
Nice! HAHA!
Multi tool to trim shims, brilliant! Just what I was looking for 👍
BOOYAH! 👍
Thanks that was helpful. You actually showed what you said unlike another video.
Glad it was helpful! What part in particular did I show that you liked the most??
@@BorsellinoHomeServices You showed real life situations. Like when it's out of plum. I have an old house and I used what you said to do. Also I liked that you showed how to hang the cabinet by yourself. Really appreciated it!
Also how to make it flush was really helpful because I had 2 cabinets as well!
@@f8fulyurs Awesome!!! Old houses are a joy aren't they?!
This house may be old, but my house was built in 2018 and my family moved in on December 17, 2018 and the walls are still not plumb. It may not even be just human error but also the movement of the ground. I love that cutting tool by the way! Ha~
HA HA! yeah the multitool is amazing
Quality of lumber has plummeted in recent decades. Leave the house unconditioned, and uncontrolled humidity will warp lumber.
Nice explanation Nick.
Thanks as always Walt!
Fixing to hang mine on unplum walls and this helped, and for the gap I hope mines small enough by time gets to window because it's about a 3/4 inch gap on top.... House built 1891 aye. Thanks for the great video :)
You could always add a moulding. These cabinets had a prefinished panel that went on the side that was supposed to be 3/4" wider than the cabinet so I could scribe it, but the cabinet guy didnt do that!!! Luckily I butt my window trim right up to it and it covered the gap completely! Phew!!! If you're gapped at the top you have the opposite problem as me though. I would recommend pre-installing shims on the wall at the top that are plumb to the bottom of where the cabinet hits the wall. Then you just hold it up and screw it in! Make sure you use long enough screws to catch the studs nice and good!!!
You better get a new level if you can't trust the bubble.
Although s
Stabila makes awesome levels and I consider them the best, an inaccurate level can be bad for a project.
Good show!
Yeah I always try to double check levels. They ride around in a truck and can get banged around or they accidentally get knocked over. Stabilas are really expensive so it's easier to flip it around and always double check than to just rely on a bubble expecting it to be good.
Thank you! Great tutorial.
you are very welcome!
Great video thank you!
Happy to help! Thanks for the feedback!!!
Nooice!
Right on!
What bit do you use to drill the pre hole to attached the cabinet to the wall? Please share
depends on what size screw you're using. It's more of a pilot bit than anything. Probably 1/8" or so. I've definitely installed cabinets without predrilling but if you predrill it does make it a little easier and cleaner
There are visible screw heads on the side of the cabinet. How will they be covered?
an end panel! 😎👍
You could glue the shims.
probably could
how do you finish this installation ? what about the space left ?
beside the cabinet, we can cover by using extra plywood panel isn't it ? but what about the gap below that cabinet ?
these cabinets get a finished panel on the side and bottom that takes care of it. not all cabinets do though, these are custom. You could add a simple cove molding or flat stock to cover the gap on the side. In my case these butt right up to the window trim so they will be covered. Same thing on the bottom, although you wouldn't ever notice the gap on the bottom unless you bend down and look up and the bottom of the cabinet. In fact I don't have the bottom panels on yet and I can't see the gap at all and i sit at the island that looks right at it every day
3 inch screws not recommended.
Better to use 2.5
why is 2.5 better??? In my instance the cabinet is 1.25" thick (1/2" back + 3/4" screwing strip) and then 1/2" drywall = 1.75"". If I use 2 1/2" screws that only goes into the stud 3/4" and the first 1/2" of the screw is tapered so that's not much grabbing. I think 3" is way better.
How much do you charge a box?
I charge $60 per hour
@@BorsellinoHomeServices Charging by the hour penalizes those who are efficient, and know what they are doing. Think about it, what's you incentive for busting your butt to get a job done? Never by the hour, always by the box. Minimum $150 a box for install.
@@mkl5448 I've always done my work hourly and make a good living. However, I rarely install cabinets anymore so I'm surely not as fast as someone who exclusively does kitchen cabinets for a living. So do you charge $150 per box and then extra for the under cabinet trim, side panels, toe kicks, door install and adjustments, hardware etc, or is that all included in the per box price?
@@BorsellinoHomeServices I hear you, if by the hour works for you then rock on my friend. I transitioned to by the job over the years, but I always have an hourly rate in my head when I'm figuring jobs. So I charge $150 to $200 per box, which depends on the size of cabinet, and whether it's all wood, or a bunch of pressboard garbage. That includes removal, toe kick, layout, ordering, time spent figuring things out, any scribe moldings as well. Usually I will do the appliance hook up's as well. It ends up around $50 to $60 an hour, and everyone stays happy. I do maybe 4 per year and never had anyone put off by my numbers. I have seen some insanely high estimates for kitchens, I'm not trying to get rich off of people, just make a decent living based on my skill set. Nice job with the videos and keep up the good work.
How much weight can the cabinets hold? and for how long?
I'm not sure. I've often wondered that question myself considering how much plates and stuff actually weigh. I have yet to have a cabinet rip off the wall. I'm sure it also depends on the construction. These were custom built with plywood and screws and made to hold a lot of weight. Some of the cheap ones you get from big box stores are built with staples and particleboard. Huge difference
You'd have to seriously overload this type of cabinet to cause problems. The screws into the stud do a lot of work.
What did the owner want you to do with the gap?
the window trim goes tight to the cabinet so it will cover the gap. We specifically designed it that way because of the wall being out of plumb
What did you do to hide the gap
Luckily the window trim goes right up against the cabinet so it will cover the gap completely
How do you hide that massive gap?
in my case... the window trim. The kitchen cabinet panels were supposed to be 1 inch deeper for scribing but they weren't!!! All the other outer panels in the kitchen have extra for scribing and of course the one where I needed it the most didn't..........
@@BorsellinoHomeServices what if you don’t have that option? I mean must window trim is never that wide. I’m in this situation myself with a gap right beside a window, it’s our own kitchen and wasn’t sure how to cover it.
@@Gazooo29 what about a flat piece of wood matching the cabinets flat against it. Maybe 1/4" x 1" or something like that. This is actually my kitchen too so I knew this was going to be an issue. There were 2 windows on this wall and I put 1 large window in so that the trim would go right up to the cabinets. My house has 1x4 trim so it is 3/4 thick which easily covered my gap
and you just blocked the wires coming out of the wall with the cabinet...
huh? the under cabinet wires are not blocked at all they come out directly below the cabinet. They are low voltage wires for led light strips
@@BorsellinoHomeServices good placement
AUGUST 12, 2021...
mmmmmkay...
I wish you showed how to hang the corner cabinet too! Otherwise, thank you for showing how to shim. Everyone says to shim, but don’t show literally how to do it
do it the same way! just put a board on both walls on your level line and set the cabinet up there. Actually on a corner cabinet doing that it will stay easier! The hard part is if the top has to be shimmed. Luckily on this job I was shimming the bottom. The top can be done it can just be a little more difficult