Super help from this Parker Davis company. They are very good in honoring your warranty. I bought 3 mini splits, but one had a compressor that is bad. The quickly replaced it with a brand new one. Will definitely recommend and do business again. Good video above, no doubt about it, but also mixed it with other mini split videos, as the gauge you use may not look like the pioneers, most likely you will have a blue and red gauge, or low and high side gauge. But for the most part, this video will get you there!
A few comments... The package Pioneer provides is great. The install video and the manual are great. Consult both. Included was everything I needed and items that I didn't realize I needed. I used the torque values from the manual as they are different in the video. I used a torque wrench, not using one is probably not a good idea. The drain is a little confusing. I used the left exit drain, you have to switch the rubber stopper and the tube over to other opposite side. Directions where hard to follow on this. Don't use the plastic anchors. When I tipped the indoor unit up to do soap leak test one of the anchors came out. Purchase metal anchors. Also when securing bracket to wall, I'm not sure why they are directing to use specific screw locations. It seems like you can secure the mounting bracket really anywhere on the bracket, so secure to stud wherever possible. Lastly if you purchase direct from pioneer you can select the 10ft line as part of the package. I had to cut provided line down to 10ft which complicated the install. Apparently it's not a good idea to use line less than 10ft.
This video is awesome; I only wish you would update your Installation Manuals to match (showing the 2-4 hours to check for leaks instead of the 5 minutes called for in the manual, for instance!). I followed the paper manual and sure hope I got lucky and don't have a slow leak...
Right now, I'm installing my second Pioneer mini-split. The unit came with enough refrigerant for its 16' of line-set, but I only need to use 5' of it, and so the manual recommends that I adjust the amount accordingly. Does Pioneer offer any help on a process like this?
The installation manual says 11 ft-lb for 1/4” lines and 18.4 ft-lb for 3/8” lines; this video says 15 ft-lb and 26 ft-lb, 40% higher. Which is correct???
This confused me too. The WYS manual page 27 has much lower torque specs than the chart at 18:50 in the video. Wonder what that chart applies to. The video also doesn't show a torque wrench, or backing off and re-tightening as instructed in the manual. Maybe torque isn't that important?
Can i use the supplied refrigerant lines to connect to the outside unit with the supplied OEM flares and nut or do i need to cut the lines myself and reflare them? I dont have any of the tools, experience or knowledge on how to do that step so im hoping i can just connect them how they were supplied by Pioneer.
What is the most common reason CONDENSER IS NOT WORKING? I just installed and the condenser is not working. Would someone be able to help me? Thank you.
Do the new outside units not have the drain hole? Just got my unit and about to install.. but there is not a drain on the back end like shown in the video…
Does the kwik e vac have enough pressure to test for leaks at the outside refrigerant lines connections and the inside lines connected to the head unit?
will the 2 refrigerant lines, comm cable and drain tube fit inside a 2" pvc pipe? I want to run those lines in pvc in case of a leak and to restrict exposure to the elements, any issues with that?
I notice that the wall sleeve is not the same size as the hole, and was not used. Should a piece of thin-wall pvc be used that is the size of the hole? Also, the lines to the outside unit were joined together with the insulation, and are equal length as shown at 7:16 - 7:27, but should attach to the back of the indoor unit in different positions due to different lengths of the stem lines. At 7:41, the insulated lineset ends are suddenly in two different positions to accommodate the stem pipes from the unit. Since the piping to the outside unit are equal lengths, is it expected that the insulation be split between the pipes to accommodate the difference when you get to the outdoor unit? An additional observation: the communication cable is the same length as the lineset. Since it is attached at the far end of the inside unit, the cable is too short to connect to the outside unit when using the preferred left hand routing, unless the cable is separated from the rest and run directly to the outside unit, leaving the cable hanging in the air. Which does not make for a neat appearance. FYI: These observations are from lessons learned when installing my Pioneer mini-split, as per the instruction manual, which does not address these issues.
I'm thinking there's a mistake at 5' 5" - the video instructs you to feed the end with spade terminals through from the back to the terminal block. I'm pretty certain you should feed the other end, with bare terminals, through here - the spade terminals are to connect to the outdoor unit . .
If you look a few seconds later, like 5:45, those look like some kind of flat terminal bent up at the edges, not the U-shaped spades with heat-shrink tubing that go outside. If I recall correctly, the indoor end of my wire didn't have those bent-up terminals--I can't remember if maybe it was tinned into a flat connector for screwing onto.
I am seeing a lot of reports that the template is off by a little bit, leaving the hole cut in the wall too low. Is there a trick that people are not realizing, or is it possible the template is incorrect? I'm getting ready to order one but don't want to mess up the install.
Yes it seems the cardboard template is not true 1:1 scale. What i did was i mounted the metal mounting bracket to the wall. Then i snapped the indoor cassette unit in. I traced around the unit with a pencil. Removed the indoor unit. Then marked my hole cut location
Hello, I recently purchased the Pioneer Hyperformance 24,000 BTU 21 SEER2 Ductless Mini Split Inverter++ Wi-Fi Enabled Air Conditioner Hyper Heat Pump Full Set 230V with Installation Kit. For my DIY installation, I'm wondering if I need to buy a "vacuum pump pressure gauge connect" for testing purposes to ensure I can draw a sufficient vacuum on the refrigerant. The advertisement suggested that this mini-split is easy to set up without needing a vacuum pump, but I want to be sure. Should I invest in a vacuum pump, or would it be unnecessary for this installation? Knowing this will help me decide whether to hire a professional for this specific task, so I don't buy the vacuum pump. Thank you.
The way it works is that the outdoor condensing unit is factory pre-charged with R410a to support line lengths up to 25 ft long. You will first need to remove the air from the lines before releasing the refrigerant from the outdoor unit, using a vacuum pump or the Kwik-e-vac flushing kit that we sell, which can bypass that step. See our video on that product here: ua-cam.com/video/ZDXIIJwDkM8/v-deo.htmlsi=Typ0gCPgLK3tQXfe
I’m a service technician and I purchased a 1 ton mini from pioneer located in Florida, my only issue is the insulation that the line set they send you isn’t the same as this video shows…. It’s so thick you can’t flush the unit on the wall, I’m going to have to re-insulate half of the line.
100% agreed on this one, you would need to trim on the insulation, so that when you make the bend into the indoor air handler, it does not push it, and leave it flushed to the wall. Agree with what you say over here.
I have a 230v unit. I have L1, L2 & G for the power supply terminals. The Ground wire is green so I know where that goes, my other two wires are Red & Black. Which wire goes on L1 and which wire goes on L2?
@@user-ch8bi9wo2g I’m wanting a Pioneer specific video on how to deep clean and/or how to remove the fan wheel to clean that. Yes, lots of videos but none Pioneer specific on how to remove the fan wheel.
pioneer customer service is beyond expectations; outstanding help.
Thank you for trusting our company!
Super help from this Parker Davis company. They are very good in honoring your warranty. I bought 3 mini splits, but one had a compressor that is bad. The quickly replaced it with a brand new one. Will definitely recommend and do business again. Good video above, no doubt about it, but also mixed it with other mini split videos, as the gauge you use may not look like the pioneers, most likely you will have a blue and red gauge, or low and high side gauge. But for the most part, this video will get you there!
A few comments... The package Pioneer provides is great. The install video and the manual are great. Consult both. Included was everything I needed and items that I didn't realize I needed. I used the torque values from the manual as they are different in the video. I used a torque wrench, not using one is probably not a good idea. The drain is a little confusing. I used the left exit drain, you have to switch the rubber stopper and the tube over to other opposite side. Directions where hard to follow on this. Don't use the plastic anchors. When I tipped the indoor unit up to do soap leak test one of the anchors came out. Purchase metal anchors. Also when securing bracket to wall, I'm not sure why they are directing to use specific screw locations. It seems like you can secure the mounting bracket really anywhere on the bracket, so secure to stud wherever possible. Lastly if you purchase direct from pioneer you can select the 10ft line as part of the package. I had to cut provided line down to 10ft which complicated the install. Apparently it's not a good idea to use line less than 10ft.
This video is awesome; I only wish you would update your Installation Manuals to match (showing the 2-4 hours to check for leaks instead of the 5 minutes called for in the manual, for instance!). I followed the paper manual and sure hope I got lucky and don't have a slow leak...
Right now, I'm installing my second Pioneer mini-split. The unit came with enough refrigerant for its 16' of line-set, but I only need to use 5' of it, and so the manual recommends that I adjust the amount accordingly. Does Pioneer offer any help on a process like this?
Thanks! I've got an 18k being delivered next week. Let the adventures begin....
You can do it!
The installation manual says 11 ft-lb for 1/4” lines and 18.4 ft-lb for 3/8” lines; this video says 15 ft-lb and 26 ft-lb, 40% higher.
Which is correct???
Always go by the installation manual as different models may have different torque ratings.
This confused me too. The WYS manual page 27 has much lower torque specs than the chart at 18:50 in the video. Wonder what that chart applies to. The video also doesn't show a torque wrench, or backing off and re-tightening as instructed in the manual. Maybe torque isn't that important?
Do they use 410a or the new refregarant.
We are transitioning to the new refrigerant in the coming year, but R410a systems can still be installed until 2026.
Can i use the supplied refrigerant lines to connect to the outside unit with the supplied OEM flares and nut or do i need to cut the lines myself and reflare them? I dont have any of the tools, experience or knowledge on how to do that step so im hoping i can just connect them how they were supplied by Pioneer.
Our line sets come pre-flared and ready to connect.
What is the most common reason CONDENSER IS NOT WORKING?
I just installed and the condenser is not working. Would someone be able to help me? Thank you.
Do the new outside units not have the drain hole? Just got my unit and about to install.. but there is not a drain on the back end like shown in the video…
Thanks for the video! Followed the steps but the cold setting doesn't get cold. No leaks were found... wondering if it need to run for a few hours?
Does the kwik e vac have enough pressure to test for leaks at the outside refrigerant lines connections and the inside lines connected to the head unit?
When used properly according to instructions it will be sufficient to do so.
will the 2 refrigerant lines, comm cable and drain tube fit inside a 2" pvc pipe? I want to run those lines in pvc in case of a leak and to restrict exposure to the elements, any issues with that?
Depends on the size of the pipes. For 1/4-3/8 or 1/4-1/2 a 3" will be fine. For 1/4-5/8 or 3/8-5/8 we'd recommend getting the 4" cover.
@@PioneerMiniSplit yes, i just tried this week and 2" pvc did not work at all, 3" was just fine for 12k diamante ultra 115v, thanks.
I notice that the wall sleeve is not the same size as the hole, and was not used. Should a piece of thin-wall pvc be used that is the size of the hole? Also, the lines to the outside unit were joined together with the insulation, and are equal length as shown at 7:16 - 7:27, but should attach to the back of the indoor unit in different positions due to different lengths of the stem lines. At 7:41, the insulated lineset ends are suddenly in two different positions to accommodate the stem pipes from the unit. Since the piping to the outside unit are equal lengths, is it expected that the insulation be split between the pipes to accommodate the difference when you get to the outdoor unit?
An additional observation: the communication cable is the same length as the lineset. Since it is attached at the far end of the inside unit, the cable is too short to connect to the outside unit when using the preferred left hand routing, unless the cable is separated from the rest and run directly to the outside unit, leaving the cable hanging in the air. Which does not make for a neat appearance.
FYI: These observations are from lessons learned when installing my Pioneer mini-split, as per the instruction manual, which does not address these issues.
I'm thinking there's a mistake at 5' 5" - the video instructs you to feed the end with spade terminals through from the back to the terminal block. I'm pretty certain you should feed the other end, with bare terminals, through here - the spade terminals are to connect to the outdoor unit . .
If you look a few seconds later, like 5:45, those look like some kind of flat terminal bent up at the edges, not the U-shaped spades with heat-shrink tubing that go outside. If I recall correctly, the indoor end of my wire didn't have those bent-up terminals--I can't remember if maybe it was tinned into a flat connector for screwing onto.
No errors at all, I installed 3 of them, and the video is correct.
Thanks...really appreciate it
Hello, If I am cutting the piping for WYS012AMFI20RL-16 to less than eight feet should I release all the refrigerant?
There is no refrigerant in the lines. Only the outside unit.
@@grampunkle don't bogart that joint my friend
I am seeing a lot of reports that the template is off by a little bit, leaving the hole cut in the wall too low. Is there a trick that people are not realizing, or is it possible the template is incorrect? I'm getting ready to order one but don't want to mess up the install.
Yes it seems the cardboard template is not true 1:1 scale. What i did was i mounted the metal mounting bracket to the wall. Then i snapped the indoor cassette unit in. I traced around the unit with a pencil. Removed the indoor unit. Then marked my hole cut location
@@peppino9255 thank you, I will do this with mine as well
Hello,
I recently purchased the Pioneer Hyperformance 24,000 BTU 21 SEER2 Ductless Mini Split Inverter++ Wi-Fi Enabled Air Conditioner Hyper Heat Pump Full Set 230V with Installation Kit.
For my DIY installation, I'm wondering if I need to buy a "vacuum pump pressure gauge connect" for testing purposes to ensure I can draw a sufficient vacuum on the refrigerant. The advertisement suggested that this mini-split is easy to set up without needing a vacuum pump, but I want to be sure. Should I invest in a vacuum pump, or would it be unnecessary for this installation? Knowing this will help me decide whether to hire a professional for this specific task, so I don't buy the vacuum pump.
Thank you.
The way it works is that the outdoor condensing unit is factory pre-charged with R410a to support line lengths up to 25 ft long. You will first need to remove the air from the lines before releasing the refrigerant from the outdoor unit, using a vacuum pump or the Kwik-e-vac flushing kit that we sell, which can bypass that step. See our video on that product here: ua-cam.com/video/ZDXIIJwDkM8/v-deo.htmlsi=Typ0gCPgLK3tQXfe
I’m a service technician and I purchased a 1 ton mini from pioneer located in Florida, my only issue is the insulation that the line set they send you isn’t the same as this video shows…. It’s so thick you can’t flush the unit on the wall, I’m going to have to re-insulate half of the line.
100% agreed on this one, you would need to trim on the insulation, so that when you make the bend into the indoor air handler, it does not push it, and leave it flushed to the wall. Agree with what you say over here.
I have a 230v unit. I have L1, L2 & G for the power supply terminals. The Ground wire is green so I know where that goes, my other two wires are Red & Black. Which wire goes on L1 and which wire goes on L2?
Generally black goes on L1 and red to L2.
Do you have a video for cleaning the cassette?
There’s plenty of videos on here on how to clean cassettes. If you keep your filters clean and washed you should be ok!
@@user-ch8bi9wo2g I’m wanting a Pioneer specific video on how to deep clean and/or how to remove the fan wheel to clean that. Yes, lots of videos but none Pioneer specific on how to remove the fan wheel.
@@jenniferslaughter1549 they’re pretty basic and all made the same but 👌
Customer service better then Mr Cool hopefully?
the background music is very annoying
Here is a version without any background music: ua-cam.com/video/5wdRny78loc/v-deo.html
Yes thank you
👍
WHY IS THERE ANNOYING MUSIC????
Here is a version without any background music: ua-cam.com/video/5wdRny78loc/v-deo.html
You're getting mad at music? Holy shit, get help. 💀