I have a Pioneer for 6 years and its run on dehumidify the ENTIRE time and its still running! Im in Dunedin, Florida so it never stops. I had to replace the air handler motor when it got noisy and the headquarters in Miami sent it to me free of charge when I produced the receipt for purchase. I installed the motor myself and the direction I used from Pioneer on YT war spot on. I installed in the master bedroom and turn off the rest of the house at night to save money and it saves so much on electricity. We are going to install Pioneer in the rest of the house as soon as we get time, so great. I paid $768 for a 12,000 BTU delivered and its the same price today. You can do it yourself and have a AC company vac the lines and release the freon for about $150. I can't say enough about how great its been.
I work as an oil burner tech in New England,and during my slow season usually spring through summer I have installed several pioneer mini splits for my customers on the side. They seem like pretty decent units. I've only had 1 compressor burn out and they just sent a brand new outdoor unit. Now are they as top notch and reliable as a mitsubishi or Fujitsu time will tell, but for the money you can't go wrong. I'm thinking about signing up for a wholesale account they have on their website. I even installed one of their 12 k single zone units for my garage and its done what its supposed to. I do alot of repairs on my vehicles myself so its been nice staying comfortable during the summer months doing little repairs.
at this point I am leaning towards buying a Pioneer. Do you know anything about tosot? trying to compare the two and see which one to buy. Also what is the difference between all of pioneers models?
A little trick I learned back in the day working with rolled soft copper is to unroll about 6 inches, set coil flat on ground, gently step on unrolled portion and proceed to walk and unroll the entire coil. Just walk it out til it's straight. Old school plumbers taught me that one.
One thing to keep in mind is if you go to coil up excess line set is to have it sit horizontally rather than vertically which can trap the refrigerant oil and lead to a compressor burn out.
Well I'm glad some people have had good luck with Pioneer units. I had two of them and both of them only lasted about a year maybe two. I have replaced both inside and outside boards on both of them at a cost far greater than the original cost of the units and I'm done with them! My second one died early this summer for the third time. And before anyone asks, yes I installed surge protectors on both units.
Well that sux.... I've got an 18k in my house that made it three weeks before the evaporator coil popped a cork. Pioneer's first offer was to send me a replacement coil. But I'm like naw buddy, this things three weeks old. I'm not tearing this thing apart to replace the coil. Come up with a better plan. So they sent me a new air handler. Waited another three weeks for that to show up, all the time 95 degrees outside. So in the end I had to tear the system back down and install the new unit. Evacuate and recharge the system at my time and expense. That was about a month ago. Runs like a charm when it's running. We'll see how it goes from here? In the mean while I've already installed a different brand 12k system in my new solar shed. Just waiting for me to get my inverters up and running for some power to get rolling. Off we continue in this new wurld of cheap junk.......... So long to the days of having some pride in the quality of the goods you sold instead of the only bottom line today..... profits.
@@andycruz9768 lol Funny you should ask. After replacing the indoor unit it also lasted about three weeks and blew the coil in the same place. I got on the horn with them and they sent yet another replacement but got this one in about 4 or 5 days. So far so good now. Hope that's the last one. I've been switching daily between heating and cooling with winter temps coming along. Amazed at the heat it's been delivering but we're headed into the low 30's in a couple of days. Interested in how well it'll do in freezing temps? Like I said before. Love it when it's working.
I installed mine in alone and had no problems with it. I did buy new copper lines from a guy on Ebay. I send him the length and he cuts and flares it perfect. Two of the systems I have installed the flares from the factor were bad. I am terrible at flaring . I did not Vaccum my lines in any of them. I used that Can of Kwik-Vac for 30 bucks on Pioneers web-site . I watched the video and did just that its worked perfect for me. I did use Ny-lock Blue and torqued them down . I don't have to use my 5 Ton system anymore this small unit runs always and removes so much humidity . The house feels great and it heats much better in the winter .My Ruud would crap out about 20 degrees . My Mini split even at 0 heats just fine.
Great video. I installed a similar Pioneer unit, an earlier model, three years ago, with no prior experience, and it's still working today for heating and cooling. Three zones, with about 120 additional feet of tubing going through the basement and closets, it was complicated at least. I watched this video tonight in order to psych myself up for the remaining unit to be installed, also a 3 ton but 4 zones. Thanks for the encouragement.
As always you and your Wife always give us a great opportunity to know what you are doing at your farm I.e. house many thanks for sharing your experience and God blessed you all mate.
I have the 12000 BTU that i installed myself almost 3 yrs ago. I tear down and clean the inside part 2 or 3 times a yr and its fantastic! The heat pump is amazing during winter as well
Down to 30 is actually 1 psi. That's actually 30 inches of water column. And waiting 1 hour will only expose a large leak; one that might make noise. A small leak that will take 3-5 weeks to fully empty will not show up in 1 hour. A micron gage is needed. Many manufacturers now recommend orbital flair blocks, and all I work with ask for a digital torque wrench for the flair nut.
done 100 s of min split installs but each one is all about same 3" whole spotted & do my own flares also & i use nitrogen 1 st @ 50 psi to 100 - 250 psi leak test before vacuum & its final leak test is always the Vacuum ...easy installs but not quite as quick as an 15 min video shows Thanks
Tony, that was the best explanation for a mini split, I have ever heard. I appreciate it. I was so close to putting a mini split in my new 12 x 24 shop, but ultimately chose a 14,000 btu inverter heat pump/A/C unit. Had I watched this beforehand, I would have went with the mini split, but my set up is working okay for now in this south Arkansas humidity and heat. Thanks again sir.
And releasing refrigerant can also pose the danger of frost bite, so that's another good reason not to vent it. It's too bad they don't make these systems for multi room home use. My dad has one in his shop and it does well cooling it. Thanks for sharing Tony!! 👍👍
I love these videos and do it yourself people. I use Nylon all refrigerant and a torque wrench for my flare fitting pretty sure the manufacturer gives a torque spec. Pulling a vacuum you are supposed to go down to 500 micron's or less and the hoses you are using for your vacuum don't think they are vacuum rated they look like fieldpiece charging hoses I use these videos as a teaching aid to show my students what not to do.
I just learned a good thing here while back while getting gas. QT cleans their pumps and driveway every night so he carries a little can with cement in it and sprinkle it over the oil stains
Great explanation I put my connections for my evaporator lines outside for the ease of install .Also for the ease of checking for leaks, and cleaning out of the drain line. line covers are important for the elements outside or inside.
I've put in 2 Pioneer ducted systems. They are interesting units and easy to install. However, their technical support is lacking as well as documentation of system operation and repair. Perhaps they have improved support at this time. Their warranty is only 5 years were the standard is 10. I like the cardboard template, it can save alot of work. Usually you need about 10 feet of tubing minimum for proper operation. Also, many units are now coming in with R32 refrigerant (not sure of Pioneer). A good source for DIY tools may be a local pawn shop.
So next ❓ is: how to get these in Australia? Always USA USA and then More USA. But thanks for reviewing, hopefully one day we can order here too. Well done though guys, I like the video 😀
Im looking at putting a mr. cool mini split in my cabin conversion. Really leaning towards them as they are made up the road from us in Hickory KY. They do use the precharged lineset with the quick connects that you showed. Most people seem to love them. However, i dont like the look of all the coiled up excess tubing. I may look into the pioneer brand like you installed. Shoot, i remember back when i did plumbing and piping systems, i can't tell you how many systems i put in when everything was silver soldered. Im not an hvac guy, but i do have a pump and gauges for doing my own auto ac. And i still have all my piping tools so i could do mine like you did and shorten the lineset if i went with a pioneer. Thanks for the heads up on the brand
@TonysTractorAdventure thanks for the heads up. I'll look into them. Do you order those online or is there a local dealership? I ask as im only about 30 mins or so from your town.
@TonysTractorAdventure ive been looking at the 12k unit for my little cabin. But i dont under stand the difference in their inverter+ and their inverter ++ units.
We have one in our sunroom and one in our utility building. I first was exposed to these while deployed to Afghanistan and Iraq. They held up amazingly well.
Dude, poke the stubs through, THEN connect the long lines to them. ;) I just installed a 12kbtu Pioneer Diamante in my bedroom and it's a dream to use. I was surprised to learn that they run 24/7/365, but it's a very low draw, 128W to 1070W max.
Per the installation instructions, you would have the option to hang the interior unit on the bracket, then prop the bottom up with a wedge or block, the run the lines in from the outside and hook them up on the bottom side of the interior unit when doing the install this way (left rear exit)
As a 43 year HVAC tech. I have to strongly disagree with what should be the NUMBER 1 priority when locating the unit. It should be located where the outdoor unit is NOT IN THE SUN in the afternoon when the day is the hottest! The cost of wire is NOTHING compared to the huge loss in capacity, and efficiency EVERY DAY - if the unit is in the sun in the afternoon!
If I install it with the Pioneer quick connect type hoses; I don't have to do the vacuum on the lines like you did? Is this unit pre-charged or do I still have to do the vacuum anyways with their quick connect hoses? I'm new on this, so Thank you so much for sharing this valuable information!!!! Thank you!!!
I have done thousands of flare fittings. With experience, you get a feel. I have not had one leak on any unit I have put in. My oldest mini split is 8 years old. It is still going strong.
Didn’t understand your statement about just hooking the lines up and not pulling a vacuum, that the unit would not work. My understanding is that these units are designed to work without doing the gauge/vacuum piece. That method of not having to do that is supposed to be their claim to fame for the DIYer. Please clarify…..enjoy the channel, TIA.
There are some units that have quick connects. There is already a vacuum pulled inside the lines. I am not a fan of those types, because they add complexity. I prefer the manual flare fitting .The units with manual flare fittings/ lines are exposed to open atmosphere. This is why they have to be vacuumed down after the lines are attached. Some people have just hooked them up without pulling the vacuum. That is a recipe for guaranteed failure. Again, only some brands have the Quick connect that are pre-vacuumed and I am not a fan of those. They have a higher rate of failure.
Great video! Do these have an energy star rating? - I'm curious as to how much it would cost on average to run year round. I'm assuming this is a 220v system, I've seen they have smaller 110v systems for smaller rooms.
Bubble wrap is not idea, but he cooled it off in the mornings of the hottest day and it was so much better than outside. He is planning on fully insulating the shop in the future. It was 30x60 if memory serves.
The vacuum only boils off water and checks for low pressure seals.. Ideally you need to pressurize the system to running pressure with nitrogen(which also dries the lines out) at 200-300 psi to do a proper seal test.For good seals also try to use Nylog thread sealant on coupling points! When cutting the tubing take into account that the manufacturer ships the units pre-charged for the length of tubing shipped... if too much is removed this will cause the unit to under preform due to too much coolant..Also you may not need to be a certified AC tech to install but read the warranty it may not cover you if installed by a non licensed tech... Just food for thought!
Hey Tony, seeing that you have installed both the Pioneer and the Tosot I would like to know which one you prefer more. I am stuck between the two and don't know which one to buy. The Tosot is 200$ off right now so it seems more enticing to buy over the Pioneer, although the Pioneer is also on sale right now. Would you say there is any noticeable difference at all between the two, and have any of them failed on you yet? Thank you.
Hi, I'm just curious does the copper line have to be certain length for the unit to work properly? Does the mfg pre-charged the freon based on the length of the tube?
I prefer fiberglass pads under the outdoor unit instead of concrete thats tied into the foundation or touching it. The fiberglass pads don't allow any vibrations to transfer into the home so I feel that the fiberglass pads are better (less is more).
I put a Pioneer in my sunroom 7 years ago and it still works. I have installed several more and have never had a failure. I have just grown to trust the brand.
On my third year with a 12K self-installed Pioneer. It's been flawless and was so cheap that if it died tomorrow I would think I got my money's worth. Probably just jinxed it 🙂
So you didnt have to charge the unit? I thought the precharged lines were the quick connect diy units. If its not a DIY you need to charge with freon and vacuum the line? So this comes charged with freon?
The charge is put in the condenser from the factory. There is enough freon in it to charge the entire unit, including the evaporator and the lines. You vacuum the lines and evaporator down to check for leaks, but just as important, your are removing other gases and moisture. When you open the two valves on the condenser, the freon rushes out into the entire vacuumed system.
@@TonysTractorAdventure ahh got it i had thought the units sold that instructed need a hvac contractor was for charging unit and doing the vacuum of line and the only diff of the DIY units was they came with precharged lines so all you did was connect lines, open, test for leaks and done. So if units come charged thats great as one of my issues with some are the linesets are only 16 feet. I would not need full charge for 25-30 ft run but enough for the 10-15 fr only.
You made my point. It is not necessary to remove 100% of the moisture. The way I did removes about 99.8% of the moisture. The way I did it is how it was done for years. It is how it is still done on most automotive AC systems. Our family has an old refrigerator that is 80 years old and still works. It was always serviced with only a vacuum pump. One other point. I followed the directions from the manufacturer. You would think they would know what's up.
I hear ya. Don't get me wrong no disrespect to you i just wanted to voice my opinions and I'm going by what I was trained and taught to do well completing my 313 apprenticeship and working in the field for the past 10 years. Also, you mentioned the refrigerator that is 80 years old keep in mind nothing is made like it used to be most equipment nowadays is made to just live past their warranty period. you take care and all the best to you and the fam@@TonysTractorAdventure
I was told by a heating and air guy that you should not cut the lines down. For example, I think they come with like 25 feet of lines and he said I should just coil them up. Is this true? Is there a minimum length that is required?
The reason they recommend not cutting is the pre charge accounts for line line in kit. Have ultra short line would mean system is overcharged. Adding more line would make the system under charged. Thats little details they left out. Now depending on the charge fir line set.
@@herewegoagain4041 It works just fine unless you cut the lines by 10ft or so. The manufacture states this. A little extra refrigerant isn't going to make it not work right.
@@herewegoagain4041 The sweet spot is a range. As long as pressures are in spec it is fine. Even some large home unit central HVAC systems come charged for variable length lines.
Pulling a vacuum to -30 doesn't mean it's properly evacuated all the moisture. Nitrogen pressure test at 350 psi is required for leak testing. A micron gauge as well as gauges of high quality are needed to do a proper job with out line set contamination. Coming out of the left side (facing the rear of the indoor unit) would have been easier & left the connections accessible. The pre-charge of refrigerant is normally for 15 feet of line set. Over that calls for additional refrigerant. 10/3 w/ground would not be required for this unit. 12/2 2-20A would probably be sufficient according to the MCA & maximum breaker size.
Thank you for your opinion. I followed the directions to the letter on the electrical and line install. It all works perfectly. As does the one I installed 8 years ago and everyone since.
@@TonysTractorAdventureYou do realize other than your own private property an electrical license is required to install the feeder and wire the unit? There are limited licenses in many states but technically you are not legal without one or the other. So, you put your self at liability telling people to wire themselves. *Not having it blow up" is not the exactly the measure for safe electric installation.
@@TonysTractorAdventure Yep. And you don't even need to pull a vacuum at all as long as you purge the air. Pioneer has an accessory kit that will allow you to do that.
Alot for one they do heating and cooling and are a dehumidifier. For two they cost less to run and for three a 12000 btu window unit is not equal to a 12000 btu ductless system. They put off alot more cfm (airflow)
These are complete heat pump units with air handlers. They cool and they heat as well as dehumidify. They are far more efficient in the amount of air they move and they use power inverters and direct current motors rather than AC motors. A window unit is a straight air conditioner. These units are heating, ventilating and air conditioning so, a full service system. Super nice and energy efficient. Quit too, unlike window air conditioners. I have 3 of these.
Not enough information. How much insulation? What kind of doors do you have and are they insulated?. Do you have roof vents? Where are you located? What is your average yearly temperature during each season?
@@TonysTractorAdventure Located in northern Utah. The shop will be fully insulated and radiant floor heating. The mini splits will be used mainly to cool in summer months and a temporary heat source in the winter if for some reason the radiant floor heat is not working. It will have a mezzanine area that will have tv and seating area. This is why I even started thinking about putting in a mini split, to keep it cool in the summer when the grandkids are watching movies.
Actually Im going for the 12000 btu ( one ton) one for my little one room cabin. I need to replace my wood heat routine cause Im 80 yr old and cant do it aymore.😅
I'd vacuum the lines as well, but use a venturi type of vacuum device. They are much faster and more powerful. No use wasting a $100 on a slow vacuum pump.
@@tedstriker754 To use a venturi you need an air compressor that is larger than the little vacuum pump. And you need to keep vacuuming for a good 15 minutes to boil off the moisture. A little air compressor won't be able to move enough air to keep up with it that long and makes a lot of noise. Not to mention, instead of just a hose coming from the vacuum pump, you need a hose from the venturi and a hose to the compressor. If you happen to have a venturi device laying around and you have a big compressor with a hose to reach, then maybe it will work, otherwise your idea is not very good.
@@garyh4458 Well I have all that, a compressor, hose and high capacity. But if someone doesn't have all that, then a pump is a good option. That venturi sucks it down to the point both pressure needles are resting on their pegs in a minute or so. If I leave it running it will start sucking the oil out of the system. Fast and powerful. But I forgot not everyone has a decent size air compressor to use the venturi.
Not bad but there are a few things to improve on you I don't know your snow fall levels were you are but you should include that info it's important for the unit not to defrost snow fall pioneer gose down to -22 low ambient so there great in the nw and the ne I install these as a professional hvac contractor pioneer is a great brand for the price not everyone has the funds for the Mitsubishis. Also you can go as far as 4 " off the celling it says it in the book
They make different systems. You can get one condenser outside and multiple evaporator heads for the inside running off of one unit. It is still by far the most efficient setup.
I installed a Pioneer Mni 2K it lasted 18 months Pulled charge weighed, No leaks Compressor went bad, Installed 2 Mitsubishi Mini's still running 4 years later, Don't know whether I was just unlucky?
I’m interested in installing one of these in our small one room cabin. The cabin originally had a woodburning stove and there’s a 6 inch hole through the logs. How could this hole be used to accommodate this type of unit? Thanks, Tim in Northern TN.
Had another AC guy tell me that mini splits can't control humidity. I wonder if that's because the system is undersized or is it not accumulating all the hot air from the ceiling peaks?
@@P9rkour90 Drafts for one. Are your windows high quality? Doors properly installed with weather stripping to stop air leakage? Do you have insulation? etc. etc.
So we are trying to decide on a mini split and have come up with some other points of view nobody seems to point out here or elsewhere. The company selling these things want to have a monopoly and they do that by having dealers that sign up for them and of course they can buy them at a reduced cost and make more money in addition to the installation charge.. what that ends up doing is that they say well we will only handle this one or two brands that we sell. The point is if you say have a Pioneer and you call out your local HVAC company they will say we don't service these and you will be sort of out of luck. Another thing to consider is that in 2025 there is a new mandated kind of air conditioning refrigerant and the units are different for that and maybe somebody would want to wait until then to get the upgraded units because that will be the new refrigerant and maybe it will be a better choice but they also say that the units would be higher in price since they are different and have to be more efficient thus a larger heat exchanger van units for the older refrigerant. I might if I was doing it have made a drip Loop in the tubing coming down from above so that you can have the water drip off and not congregate on the fittings and later having to find that you can't get them loose because they have corroded over time. If you're replacing an old unit you will be hit with a charge to remove it and as we all know if you were to take it out yourself then it would be jail time if they catch you. I hope this helps I am still learning and going through the Maze and Gauntlet of this technology.
I have never ran into a HVAC company that will not service equipment. That is how they make money. I think you are overthinking it. Install it and let it work. My sunroom unit has only been cleaned in 8 years. Works perfectly.
You said you prefer this over quick connect for this reason but whats the reason? You say it adds another complexity yet the quick connect is similar the lines come pre charged, i had not seen pioneer lineset come precharged
@@TonysTractorAdventure im asking so i know why, i am researching, i have 2 units that were precharged but the line sets connected just like the one you have. So im trying to understand what diff is.
@@TonysTractorAdventure ok i went and researched as it seems you not understanding the question. You feel doing the flared connection and vacuum of lines is better, but that is where most diy folks will have issue trying to flare the line for connection and not have a leak, if have leak then they have to redo. The quick connect is done to prevent the leaks. So for diy if they dont want to buy the flare kit, vacuum kit then the quick connect works just fine. Appreciate the help, sorry if i didnt explain myself, these are very new to me and just trying to determine best route for my next 2 units. Video has some good tips and info.
I have duct work in my house and a traditional split system is way more efficient then something like this, mine is a 3ton and to cool a whole 1,300+ square foot house with wall mounts wouldn't make sense, and my system uses the reliable copeland scrolls with 10 year warranty on all parts, multizone mini split systems would only make sense for older houses that never had ducted split systems
@@TonysTractorAdventure now it may not be as efficient is the SEER rating due to being a single phase, but 2 stage and variable speed split systems do exist. I find a central split system is better with humidity control and whole house cooling and heating without having ugly head units on walls.
The only DIY people that should try anything like this are people who can afford a professional to fix it if you make a mistake. Some people who CAN'T afford a mistake will have a monumental task fixing something like this. I have seen professionals have trouble every day with some point of installation. Every day these guys "hope" to have a good day but know they might be on a phone call fixing something that the factory JUST learned is a problem with the machine. Happens everyday with this technology. Be smart.
@@TonysTractorAdventure My comment was because I am a professional and bail poor people out all the time/ Don't understand the " That is so sweet" comment.
I passed by this video several times before I actually chose to watch it, because it is my experience that anything that starts with "...Don't want you to See This!" is meant for uneducated conspiracy nuts who think they know some secret that nobody else knows. Turned out to be a good video with an unfortunate click bait title.
@@TonysTractorAdventure yes, when it targets stupid people like those that respond to "they don't want you to see this" The video had enough good value it did not need to target those people. I almost did not watch it because of this, how many did pass it by? Next will there be a "they don't want you to know the earth is flat" video?
Not installing the outside condenser a few feet from the ground is the worst-case for future performance. Dirt is the number one enemy of any condenser.
My Pioneer Lasted 18 Months the compressor went, recovered Charge same as factory weight no burnt smell, Bought Mitsubishi Zero problems 3 years now Pioneer are Not good units at least from what I experienced!
Refrigeration has been around for years. Using single flairs has worked for years. I have installed countless air conditioner systems without any issues.
🌹🌹🌹As long as you contact me, you can find the air conditioner you want. Chinese air conditioners are the best quality air conditioners in the world, affordable and selling well globally!
Perhaps you could make a better video with all the pertinent information included. Oh but you don't have any content on your channel I notice. Yet you complain? Amazing.
The guy mentioned pulling a vacuum down to -30psi. That is not correct, and not even possible. Atmospheric pressure is 14.7psi. 0 psi is a vacuum, but I guess on a psi gauge you could say -14.7psi is perfect vacuum. The units of the numbers below zero on a gauge set is inches of mercury. In a one inch diameter column (or straw), a perfect vacuum will suck mercury up to a level of 30". The in Hg "inches Mercury". Hg is the atomic symbol of mercury.
Everyone is completely impressed by your post. You get a cookie today. I bet if I made a video of you for a day, you would never make a mistake. Your eliteism is an irritation to the world.
@@TonysTractorAdventure You said something really stupid in the video. It is as stupid as if I made a video and said I was inflating my tractor tire to -70 inches of mercury. Too bad you are ignorant about normal HVAC terms when making a video about installing an HVAC system. Maybe you should stick to tractor videos if you can't handle a little feedback.
@@TonysTractorAdventure Nothing elite about my comment but your comment about -30 psi was just stupid. You obviously have no engineering background and definitely not a n HVAC background, which makes me question the entire legitimacy of your video and other youtube videos. Furthermore, you can't take feedback. Sad man.
I have a friend in the Atlanta Ga. area that does HVAVC. In the last two years he has fixed over 30 DYI installs; the problem with the installs is almost always the flare quick connect fittings, they are usually over-torqued - and eventually leak. For MrCool and most others you definitely **have** to use a torque wrench to ensure a leak-free lineset; neither he nor I can reliably make leak-free connections without a torque wrench (and we both have a lot of practice).
I hate these damn “xyz doesn’t want you to see this”. Everyone knows it’s just click bait. Just post a honest topic “Pioneer mini split DIY install”. And a note about units that are not major supply house supported like Mitsubishi, Gree, Fujitsu,, is if you need a part like an inverter board it can and often is a nightmare to get. I’ve seen so many mini split units junked after a few years because a power surge took out the inverter and they couldn’t get another one.
Those pads are terrible! I didn't even know they were still sold. They're junk. They're styrofoam with a thin veneer of cement. They don't weather well, and they regularly crack. A wall bracket for a mini split is superior.
You did a poor job of justifying opposition to quick connects. I would imagine the primary reason "pros" like to do it the old way is because they have the tools to forego quick connects.
Thank you for your opinion. I like it the old way so I don't have a bunch of excess, and any extra step is just another opportunity for a leak. Like I said in the video.
I have a Pioneer for 6 years and its run on dehumidify the ENTIRE time and its still running! Im in Dunedin, Florida so it never stops. I had to replace the air handler motor when it got noisy and the headquarters in Miami sent it to me free of charge when I produced the receipt for purchase. I installed the motor myself and the direction I used from Pioneer on YT war spot on. I installed in the master bedroom and turn off the rest of the house at night to save money and it saves so much on electricity. We are going to install Pioneer in the rest of the house as soon as we get time, so great. I paid $768 for a 12,000 BTU delivered and its the same price today. You can do it yourself and have a AC company vac the lines and release the freon for about $150. I can't say enough about how great its been.
Thanks ...I'm thinking about moving there from Bonita Springs
I work as an oil burner tech in New England,and during my slow season usually spring through summer I have installed several pioneer mini splits for my customers on the side.
They seem like pretty decent units.
I've only had 1 compressor burn out and they just sent a brand new outdoor unit. Now are they as top notch and reliable as a mitsubishi or Fujitsu time will tell, but for the money you can't go wrong.
I'm thinking about signing up for a wholesale account they have on their website.
I even installed one of their 12 k single zone units for my garage and its done what its supposed to.
I do alot of repairs on my vehicles myself so its been nice staying comfortable during the summer months doing little repairs.
at this point I am leaning towards buying a Pioneer. Do you know anything about tosot? trying to compare the two and see which one to buy. Also what is the difference between all of pioneers models?
A little trick I learned back in the day working with rolled soft copper is to unroll about 6 inches, set coil flat on ground, gently step on unrolled portion and proceed to walk and unroll the entire coil. Just walk it out til it's straight. Old school plumbers taught me that one.
Yep 👍
One thing to keep in mind is if you go to coil up excess line set is to have it sit horizontally rather than vertically which can trap the refrigerant oil and lead to a compressor burn out.
It doesn't mention that in the directions however I think you are correct.
Well I'm glad some people have had good luck with Pioneer units. I had two of them and both of them only lasted about a year maybe two. I have replaced both inside and outside boards on both of them at a cost far greater than the original cost of the units and I'm done with them! My second one died early this summer for the third time. And before anyone asks, yes I installed surge protectors on both units.
My oldest Pioneer unit is 8 years old. I have never had one failure yet. They are man made and man installed, so there will be flaws
Well that sux.... I've got an 18k in my house that made it three weeks before the evaporator coil popped a cork. Pioneer's first offer was to send me a replacement coil. But I'm like naw buddy, this things three weeks old. I'm not tearing this thing apart to replace the coil. Come up with a better plan. So they sent me a new air handler. Waited another three weeks for that to show up, all the time 95 degrees outside. So in the end I had to tear the system back down and install the new unit. Evacuate and recharge the system at my time and expense.
That was about a month ago. Runs like a charm when it's running. We'll see how it goes from here? In the mean while I've already installed a different brand 12k system in my new solar shed. Just waiting for me to get my inverters up and running for some power to get rolling.
Off we continue in this new wurld of cheap junk.......... So long to the days of having some pride in the quality of the goods you sold instead of the only bottom line today..... profits.
@@beebop9808 Update on that pioneer?
@@andycruz9768 lol Funny you should ask. After replacing the indoor unit it also lasted about three weeks and blew the coil in the same place. I got on the horn with them and they sent yet another replacement but got this one in about 4 or 5 days. So far so good now. Hope that's the last one. I've been switching daily between heating and cooling with winter temps coming along. Amazed at the heat it's been delivering but we're headed into the low 30's in a couple of days. Interested in how well it'll do in freezing temps? Like I said before. Love it when it's working.
I've done 2 of these as an advanced DIY guy. An 18 and 24k. 2 years going strong on the 18k unit. Make sure you definitely make your own flares!
Thank you for the support. I put in a 24K 7/8 years ago by Pioneer. It is still going strong.
I installed mine in alone and had no problems with it. I did buy new copper lines from a guy on Ebay. I send him the length and he cuts and flares it perfect. Two of the systems I have installed the flares from the factor were bad. I am terrible at flaring . I did not Vaccum my lines in any of them. I used that Can of Kwik-Vac for 30 bucks on Pioneers web-site . I watched the video and did just that its worked perfect for me. I did use Ny-lock Blue and torqued them down . I don't have to use my 5 Ton system anymore this small unit runs always and removes so much humidity . The house feels great and it heats much better in the winter .My Ruud would crap out about 20 degrees . My Mini split even at 0 heats just fine.
Great video. I installed a similar Pioneer unit, an earlier model, three years ago, with no prior experience, and it's still working today for heating and cooling. Three zones, with about 120 additional feet of tubing going through the basement and closets, it was complicated at least. I watched this video tonight in order to psych myself up for the remaining unit to be installed, also a 3 ton but 4 zones. Thanks for the encouragement.
You bet. They are an awesome system.
As always you and your Wife always give us a great opportunity to know what you are doing at your farm I.e. house many thanks for sharing your experience and God blessed you all mate.
Our pleasure! God Bless you Joe.
I have the 12000 BTU that i installed myself almost 3 yrs ago. I tear down and clean the inside part 2 or 3 times a yr and its fantastic! The heat pump is amazing during winter as well
Very nice! I clean mine about once each year. Works great
Down to 30 is actually 1 psi. That's actually 30 inches of water column. And waiting 1 hour will only expose a large leak; one that might make noise. A small leak that will take 3-5 weeks to fully empty will not show up in 1 hour. A micron gage is needed. Many manufacturers now recommend orbital flair blocks, and all I work with ask for a digital torque wrench for the flair nut.
Thank you for your opinion. To this point I've never had one fail. My oldest unit is running in its 9th year.
@ I just have 35 years as an HVAC contractor and both me and my colleagues thought poorly of them. That’s my experience
done 100 s of min split installs but each one is all about same 3" whole spotted & do my own flares also & i use nitrogen 1 st @ 50 psi to 100 - 250 psi leak test before vacuum & its final leak test is always the Vacuum ...easy installs but not quite as quick as an 15 min video shows Thanks
Tony, that was the best explanation for a mini split, I have ever heard. I appreciate it. I was so close to putting a mini split in my new 12 x 24 shop, but ultimately chose a 14,000 btu inverter heat pump/A/C unit. Had I watched this beforehand, I would have went with the mini split, but my set up is working okay for now in this south Arkansas humidity and heat. Thanks again sir.
Marty, Brother, you need to keep your humidity in AR. It has been coming across the river and getting on my side. LOL! It is horrible here too.
Hahahaha!
And releasing refrigerant can also pose the danger of frost bite, so that's another good reason not to vent it. It's too bad they don't make these systems for multi room home use. My dad has one in his shop and it does well cooling it. Thanks for sharing Tony!! 👍👍
They do make them for multiple rooms. They have one outside condenser and multiple head units.
You won't get frost bite unless you are a moron.
I love these videos and do it yourself people.
I use Nylon all refrigerant and a torque wrench for my flare fitting pretty sure the manufacturer gives a torque spec.
Pulling a vacuum you are supposed to go down to 500 micron's or less and the hoses you are using for your vacuum don't think they are vacuum rated they look like fieldpiece charging hoses
I use these videos as a teaching aid to show my students what not to do.
I followed the directions and it works great. My first mini split is still going strong 8 years later.
This is good no nonsense straight to the point demonstration. Thanks so much!
You are welcome
@@TonysTractorAdventure epa certification needed?
I just learned a good thing here while back while getting gas. QT cleans their pumps and driveway every night so he carries a little can with cement in it and sprinkle it over the oil stains
Installed a DELLA (9K Btu) love it! Maker is Panasonic just another name
Thanks for the info!👍
i prefer they see this, i ha8 installing these things . please share this with every diy homeowner !!
First time watching one of your videos. Good insight, and several good tips! New sub.
Welcome aboard!
Great explanation I put my connections for my evaporator lines outside for the ease of install .Also for the ease of checking for leaks, and cleaning out of the drain line. line covers are important for the elements outside or inside.
That is why we did it the way we did. Easy to work on and keep clean.
I've put in 2 Pioneer ducted systems. They are interesting units and easy to install. However, their technical support is lacking as well as
documentation of system operation and repair. Perhaps they have improved support at this time. Their warranty is only 5 years were the
standard is 10. I like the cardboard template, it can save alot of work. Usually you need about 10 feet of tubing minimum for proper operation. Also, many units are now coming in with R32 refrigerant (not sure of Pioneer). A good source for DIY tools may be a local pawn shop.
So next ❓ is: how to get these in Australia? Always USA USA and then More USA. But thanks for reviewing, hopefully one day we can order here too. Well done though guys, I like the video 😀
Thank you
These are manufactured in China. The actual company is Parker Davis. See if they have a distributor there.
Great video. . Is it the same pressure and vacuum pump size for r32 refrigerant??
Im looking at putting a mr. cool mini split in my cabin conversion. Really leaning towards them as they are made up the road from us in Hickory KY. They do use the precharged lineset with the quick connects that you showed. Most people seem to love them. However, i dont like the look of all the coiled up excess tubing. I may look into the pioneer brand like you installed. Shoot, i remember back when i did plumbing and piping systems, i can't tell you how many systems i put in when everything was silver soldered. Im not an hvac guy, but i do have a pump and gauges for doing my own auto ac. And i still have all my piping tools so i could do mine like you did and shorten the lineset if i went with a pioneer. Thanks for the heads up on the brand
We have been running Pioneers for about 8 years. Good unit
@TonysTractorAdventure thanks for the heads up. I'll look into them. Do you order those online or is there a local dealership? I ask as im only about 30 mins or so from your town.
Order from online
@TonysTractorAdventure ive been looking at the 12k unit for my little cabin. But i dont under stand the difference in their inverter+ and their inverter ++ units.
I has a mini split put in our upstairs master bedroom and absolutely love it.
We have one in our sunroom and one in our utility building. I first was exposed to these while deployed to Afghanistan and Iraq. They held up amazingly well.
Dude, poke the stubs through, THEN connect the long lines to them. ;) I just installed a 12kbtu Pioneer Diamante in my bedroom and it's a dream to use. I was surprised to learn that they run 24/7/365, but it's a very low draw, 128W to 1070W max.
Dude, it doesn't always work that way. Sometimes the lines have to go out the other side of the unit head.
Per the installation instructions, you would have the option to hang the interior unit on the bracket, then prop the bottom up with a wedge or block, the run the lines in from the outside and hook them up on the bottom side of the interior unit when doing the install this way (left rear exit)
Why wasn't Nylog Blue used on fittings before tightening the fittings up?
The directions didn't say to.
@@TonysTractorAdventure most other brands do say so in directions,and a lot of other videos will show the same
If it's a flare connection, you don't. It's a compression fitting. Torque to the specified ft-lb.
As a 43 year HVAC tech. I have to strongly disagree with what should be the NUMBER 1 priority when locating the unit. It should be located where the outdoor unit is NOT IN THE SUN in the afternoon when the day is the hottest! The cost of wire is NOTHING compared to the huge loss in capacity, and efficiency EVERY DAY - if the unit is in the sun in the afternoon!
I find the unit location is dictated by the building site. No one wants an AC unit by the front door.😁👍
@@TonysTractorAdventure Like i said before - my entire career is in HVAC . You are just WRONG, you don't have a clue what you are talking about.
HVAC technician here as well. Scotty is 100% more correct than you here and efficient.
The dirt zone!!! The dirt zone!!! The dirt zone!!! Stay out of the DIRT ZONE!!!
If I install it with the Pioneer quick connect type hoses; I don't have to do the vacuum on the lines like you did? Is this unit pre-charged or do I still have to do the vacuum anyways with their quick connect hoses? I'm new on this, so Thank you so much for sharing this valuable information!!!! Thank you!!!
Pioneer doesn't offer quick connect hoses. The system is pre charged with freon. A lot of fails with the quick connect line sets.
Thank you again for sharing your experience to us all mate and as always God bless you all mate
My pleasure
They have a torque wrench for the lineset. These things are easy to over tighten and cause a leak
I have done thousands of flare fittings. With experience, you get a feel. I have not had one leak on any unit I have put in. My oldest mini split is 8 years old. It is still going strong.
@@TonysTractorAdventure Same here, I'm just a big fan of doing it right the first time, warranties won't be granted if it's not installed properly.
Not really. Just tighten them good and tight.
Nice video! Very informative thanks!!
Glad it was helpful!
What an excellent video. Thank you sir. 😊
You are very welcome
Didn’t understand your statement about just hooking the lines up and not pulling a vacuum, that the unit would not work. My understanding is that these units are designed to work without doing the gauge/vacuum piece. That method of not having to do that is supposed to be their claim to fame for the DIYer. Please clarify…..enjoy the channel, TIA.
There are some units that have quick connects. There is already a vacuum pulled inside the lines. I am not a fan of those types, because they add complexity. I prefer the manual flare fitting .The units with manual flare fittings/ lines are exposed to open atmosphere. This is why they have to be vacuumed down after the lines are attached. Some people have just hooked them up without pulling the vacuum. That is a recipe for guaranteed failure. Again, only some brands have the Quick connect that are pre-vacuumed and I am not a fan of those. They have a higher rate of failure.
Thanks, I was looking at the Mr Cool brand.
@@TonysTractorAdventure those flare fittings should have torqued. the biggest problem is people over tighten the nuts and cut the flare.
I have never had a leak in 8 years.
Look DIY Installers
They Donot Use HVAC Tools
Gauges Or Vacuum And It
Will Work Perfect With Zero
Problems.
Amén.
No smoke, upon crank up when doing an AC install, is a good start.
Something not blowing up is always a good sign. 😁
Great video! Do these have an energy star rating? - I'm curious as to how much it would cost on average to run year round. I'm assuming this is a 220v system, I've seen they have smaller 110v systems for smaller rooms.
Yes they do. The average energy rating is listed on their website. Link in the video description.
I have a 9000btu in my shed. I run it all year long for heat and cooling. I didn't even notice a change to my electric bill.
How big is the shop? And how did it do with just the bubble wrap insulation? Great video! I thought it was very informative.
Bubble wrap is not idea, but he cooled it off in the mornings of the hottest day and it was so much better than outside. He is planning on fully insulating the shop in the future. It was 30x60 if memory serves.
The vacuum only boils off water and checks for low pressure seals..
Ideally you need to pressurize the system to running pressure with nitrogen(which also dries the lines out) at 200-300 psi to do a proper seal test.For good seals also try to use Nylog thread sealant on coupling points!
When cutting the tubing take into account that the manufacturer ships the units pre-charged for the length of tubing shipped... if too much is removed this will cause the unit to under preform due to too much coolant..Also you may not need to be a certified AC tech to install but read the warranty it may not cover you if installed by a non licensed tech...
Just food for thought!
Thank you for your opinion.
Hey Tony, seeing that you have installed both the Pioneer and the Tosot I would like to know which one you prefer more. I am stuck between the two and don't know which one to buy. The Tosot is 200$ off right now so it seems more enticing to buy over the Pioneer, although the Pioneer is also on sale right now. Would you say there is any noticeable difference at all between the two, and have any of them failed on you yet? Thank you.
Hi, I'm just curious does the copper line have to be certain length for the unit to work properly? Does the mfg pre-charged the freon based on the length of the tube?
Yes, but there is a leadway.
If you cut a lot of the tubing you will have to discharge some refrigerant. And, if you extend you will have to add more.
Awesome video as always!
Thank you. The system is still running great.
I prefer fiberglass pads under the outdoor unit instead of concrete thats tied into the foundation or touching it. The fiberglass pads don't allow any vibrations to transfer into the home so I feel that the fiberglass pads are better (less is more).
I follow what you are thinking.
Tony may I ask why you use the Pioneer Mini Split system ? Watch all you videos and enjoy your content
I put a Pioneer in my sunroom 7 years ago and it still works. I have installed several more and have never had a failure. I have just grown to trust the brand.
Awesome stuff, as always, guys
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great job!! Looks great !!
Thank you.
On my third year with a 12K self-installed Pioneer. It's been flawless and was so cheap that if it died tomorrow I would think I got my money's worth. Probably just jinxed it 🙂
That's the way I feel as well. I have put in several of these units and all of them are still going strong.
So you didnt have to charge the unit? I thought the precharged lines were the quick connect diy units. If its not a DIY you need to charge with freon and vacuum the line?
So this comes charged with freon?
The charge is put in the condenser from the factory. There is enough freon in it to charge the entire unit, including the evaporator and the lines. You vacuum the lines and evaporator down to check for leaks, but just as important, your are removing other gases and moisture. When you open the two valves on the condenser, the freon rushes out into the entire vacuumed system.
@@TonysTractorAdventure ahh got it i had thought the units sold that instructed need a hvac contractor was for charging unit and doing the vacuum of line and the only diff of the DIY units was they came with precharged lines so all you did was connect lines, open, test for leaks and done. So if units come charged thats great as one of my issues with some are the linesets are only 16 feet. I would not need full charge for 25-30 ft run but enough for the 10-15 fr only.
That blessed my socks off!
micron gauge is the only way to ensure you have removed all moisture from line sets under 500 microns and needs to hold under for at least 10 mins
You made my point. It is not necessary to remove 100% of the moisture. The way I did removes about 99.8% of the moisture. The way I did it is how it was done for years. It is how it is still done on most automotive AC systems. Our family has an old refrigerator that is 80 years old and still works. It was always serviced with only a vacuum pump. One other point. I followed the directions from the manufacturer. You would think they would know what's up.
I hear ya. Don't get me wrong no disrespect to you i just wanted to voice my opinions and I'm going by what I was trained and taught to do well completing my 313 apprenticeship and working in the field for the past 10 years. Also, you mentioned the refrigerator that is 80 years old keep in mind nothing is made like it used to be most equipment nowadays is made to just live past their warranty period. you take care and all the best to you and the fam@@TonysTractorAdventure
Excellent ... it's very confusing on the mass number of units available.. who makes the pioneer brand ? Thanks .. mb .. jax
Parker Davis
Great video thanks! Thoughts on quality of most units vs. Mitsubishi, Fujitsu & Daiken? I want to install a system that will last 20 YR. Thanks!
My first Pioneer install is still running 8 years later.
@@TonysTractorAdventure Thanks! Any repairs?
how big is the shop
I was told by a heating and air guy that you should not cut the lines down. For example, I think they come with like 25 feet of lines and he said I should just coil them up. Is this true? Is there a minimum length that is required?
The manual said, to cut it as needed.
The reason they recommend not cutting is the pre charge accounts for line line in kit. Have ultra short line would mean system is overcharged. Adding more line would make the system under charged. Thats little details they left out. Now depending on the charge fir line set.
@@herewegoagain4041 It works just fine unless you cut the lines by 10ft or so. The manufacture states this. A little extra refrigerant isn't going to make it not work right.
@@garyh4458 dude Im not saying it wont work I am giving the variables of what happens when u move from manufatured sweet spot thats all.
@@herewegoagain4041 The sweet spot is a range. As long as pressures are in spec it is fine. Even some large home unit central HVAC systems come charged for variable length lines.
Pulling a vacuum to -30 doesn't mean it's properly evacuated all the moisture. Nitrogen pressure test at 350 psi is required for leak testing. A micron gauge as well as gauges of high quality are needed to do a proper job with out line set contamination.
Coming out of the left side (facing the rear of the indoor unit) would have been easier & left the connections accessible.
The pre-charge of refrigerant is normally for 15 feet of line set. Over that calls for additional refrigerant.
10/3 w/ground would not be required for this unit. 12/2 2-20A would probably be sufficient according to the MCA & maximum breaker size.
Thank you for your opinion. I followed the directions to the letter on the electrical and line install. It all works perfectly. As does the one I installed 8 years ago and everyone since.
@@TonysTractorAdventureYou do realize other than your own private property an electrical license is required to install the feeder and wire the unit? There are limited licenses in many states but technically you are not legal without one or the other. So, you put your self at liability telling people to wire themselves. *Not having it blow up" is not the exactly the measure for safe electric installation.
Nitrogen test for mini-split system is 500psi-700psi because r410a is a high-pressure type of freon. 350 microns, it's a vacuum parameter.
@@fritzmiller9792 Homeowners do their own wiring, plumbing, and other things all the time.
@@TonysTractorAdventure Yep. And you don't even need to pull a vacuum at all as long as you purge the air. Pioneer has an accessory kit that will allow you to do that.
great video!
Thank you
How to determine size of mini split?
So what is the difference between these units and a nice window unit? Except they are more difficult to install.
The window units look cheap IMO. Most Mini splits are considerably more efficient.
Alot for one they do heating and cooling and are a dehumidifier. For two they cost less to run and for three a 12000 btu window unit is not equal to a 12000 btu ductless system. They put off alot more cfm (airflow)
These are complete heat pump units with air handlers. They cool and they heat as well as dehumidify. They are far more efficient in the amount of air they move and they use power inverters and direct current motors rather than AC motors. A window unit is a straight air conditioner. These units are heating, ventilating and air conditioning so, a full service system. Super nice and energy efficient. Quit too, unlike window air conditioners. I have 3 of these.
What is the difference between a flashlight and a light bulb?
I really wish i could have seen the part where you wired it into the panel
There are thousands of videos out there on AC disconnects. I do appreciate your feedback.
That's the easiest part of this whole process
I’m having a 40’x60’ shop with 15’ walls. What size of system and how many wall units do you suggest?
Not enough information. How much insulation? What kind of doors do you have and are they insulated?. Do you have roof vents? Where are you located? What is your average yearly temperature during each season?
@@TonysTractorAdventure Located in northern Utah. The shop will be fully insulated and radiant floor heating.
The mini splits will be used mainly to cool in summer months and a temporary heat source in the winter if for some reason the radiant floor heat is not working. It will have a mezzanine area that will have tv and seating area. This is why I even started thinking about putting in a mini split, to keep it cool in the summer when the grandkids are watching movies.
Actually Im going for the 12000 btu ( one ton) one for my little one room cabin. I need to replace my wood heat routine cause Im 80 yr old and cant do it aymore.😅
I'd vacuum the lines as well, but use a venturi type of vacuum device. They are much faster and more powerful. No use wasting a $100 on a slow vacuum pump.
Thank you for your insight.
LOL at venturi type device. That's lame.
@@garyh4458 Don't knock it until you try one. When you see how fast it takes it down to complete vacuum you'll never use that old slow pump again.
@@tedstriker754 To use a venturi you need an air compressor that is larger than the little vacuum pump. And you need to keep vacuuming for a good 15 minutes to boil off the moisture. A little air compressor won't be able to move enough air to keep up with it that long and makes a lot of noise. Not to mention, instead of just a hose coming from the vacuum pump, you need a hose from the venturi and a hose to the compressor. If you happen to have a venturi device laying around and you have a big compressor with a hose to reach, then maybe it will work, otherwise your idea is not very good.
@@garyh4458 Well I have all that, a compressor, hose and high capacity. But if someone doesn't have all that, then a pump is a good option. That venturi sucks it down to the point both pressure needles are resting on their pegs in a minute or so. If I leave it running it will start sucking the oil out of the system. Fast and powerful. But I forgot not everyone has a decent size air compressor to use the venturi.
my understanding is you need an epa certificate connect any freon lines.
You need a certificate to add and remove freon.
Not bad but there are a few things to improve on you I don't know your snow fall levels were you are but you should include that info it's important for the unit not to defrost snow fall pioneer gose down to -22 low ambient so there great in the nw and the ne I install these as a professional hvac contractor pioneer is a great brand for the price not everyone has the funds for the Mitsubishis. Also you can go as far as 4 " off the celling it says it in the book
We don't have enough snow to worry about. My first Pioneer has been working great for 8 years. They offer a good product for a good price.
In an open area they work fine but when rooms are closed like bedrooms and baths, not that good unless you have several.
They make different systems. You can get one condenser outside and multiple evaporator heads for the inside running off of one unit. It is still by far the most efficient setup.
I installed a Pioneer Mni 2K it lasted 18 months Pulled charge weighed, No leaks Compressor went bad, Installed 2 Mitsubishi Mini's still running 4 years later, Don't know whether I was just unlucky?
It sounds like you didn't follow the directions. It comes pre-loaded with refrigerant. There is really no reason to mess with the refrigerant.
Been running a Pioneer for at least 5 years now with no issues.
I’m interested in installing one of these in our small one room cabin. The cabin originally had a woodburning stove and there’s a 6 inch hole through the logs. How could this hole be used to accommodate this type of unit? Thanks, Tim in Northern TN.
You could run the hose through the hole if the hole is in the right place. That would be a neat fix.
@@TonysTractorAdventure I’m just concerned about what to do with the extra space since the hole is much larger than the hole you cut.
@CliffsideStables I would foam it up and make some trim to look professional.
@@CliffsideStables Plug the stove hole and drill a proper one for the minisplit. Any handyman can handle it.
Good video
Thanks
Can you shorten the lines? I am putting this into my concession trailer and I don't need 16 foot of lines.
You can shorten the lines, but if you shorten them to much you will have to have a HVAC guy remove some freon.
Had another AC guy tell me that mini splits can't control humidity. I wonder if that's because the system is undersized or is it not accumulating all the hot air from the ceiling peaks?
My unit drops a ton of water outside.
The AC guy who told you that is an idiot.
Very good guide!
Thank you
Vacuum on a closed return line? 😃
You are misunderstanding the procedure. Follow the directions and it works great.
It is vacuuming the line that goes through the evaporator.
Would a 1200 sqft home suffice with a 36000 BTU mini split?
There are a lot of variables but generally speaking, yes
What type of variables
@@P9rkour90 Drafts for one. Are your windows high quality? Doors properly installed with weather stripping to stop air leakage? Do you have insulation? etc. etc.
If you had multiple interior units but one unit isn't going to blow air through the entire house.
Use fans to transfer air.
So we are trying to decide on a mini split and have come up with some other points of view nobody seems to point out here or elsewhere. The company selling these things want to have a monopoly and they do that by having dealers that sign up for them and of course they can buy them at a reduced cost and make more money in addition to the installation charge.. what that ends up doing is that they say well we will only handle this one or two brands that we sell. The point is if you say have a Pioneer and you call out your local HVAC company they will say we don't service these and you will be sort of out of luck. Another thing to consider is that in 2025 there is a new mandated kind of air conditioning refrigerant and the units are different for that and maybe somebody would want to wait until then to get the upgraded units because that will be the new refrigerant and maybe it will be a better choice but they also say that the units would be higher in price since they are different and have to be more efficient thus a larger heat exchanger van units for the older refrigerant. I might if I was doing it have made a drip Loop in the tubing coming down from above so that you can have the water drip off and not congregate on the fittings and later having to find that you can't get them loose because they have corroded over time. If you're replacing an old unit you will be hit with a charge to remove it and as we all know if you were to take it out yourself then it would be jail time if they catch you. I hope this helps I am still learning and going through the Maze and Gauntlet of this technology.
I have never ran into a HVAC company that will not service equipment. That is how they make money. I think you are overthinking it. Install it and let it work. My sunroom unit has only been cleaned in 8 years. Works perfectly.
You said you prefer this over quick connect for this reason but whats the reason? You say it adds another complexity yet the quick connect is similar the lines come pre charged, i had not seen pioneer lineset come precharged
I stand by my statement.
@@TonysTractorAdventure im asking so i know why, i am researching, i have 2 units that were precharged but the line sets connected just like the one you have. So im trying to understand what diff is.
I apologize, but I addressed the "why" in the video. Quick connects are the weakest link do to their extra complexity.
@@TonysTractorAdventure ok i went and researched as it seems you not understanding the question. You feel doing the flared connection and vacuum of lines is better, but that is where most diy folks will have issue trying to flare the line for connection and not have a leak, if have leak then they have to redo. The quick connect is done to prevent the leaks. So for diy if they dont want to buy the flare kit, vacuum kit then the quick connect works just fine. Appreciate the help, sorry if i didnt explain myself, these are very new to me and just trying to determine best route for my next 2 units. Video has some good tips and info.
Not sure about complexity but the main drawback is that you have extra line that you have to coil up or do something with. It is ugly.
Freon disappeared years ago. The refrigerant is most likely R32, which does not have an atmospheric contamination warning.
You are right
These mini splits us R410a.
@@garyh4458 R-410A mini-splits require a deep vacuum draw. Airborne water is bad for the efficiency of the machine. Look at your install instructions.
vacuum -30lbs gauge does not equal 500 microns which is required to assure no moisture
So what everybody keeps telling me, but my units have been running perfectly for 8 years.
need explanation on vaccing that valve................?....................vac quick conn to?
Follow the directions the company offers.
I have duct work in my house and a traditional split system is way more efficient then something like this, mine is a 3ton and to cool a whole 1,300+ square foot house with wall mounts wouldn't make sense, and my system uses the reliable copeland scrolls with 10 year warranty on all parts, multizone mini split systems would only make sense for older houses that never had ducted split systems
Not even close to being as efficient as a mini split.
@@TonysTractorAdventure now it may not be as efficient is the SEER rating due to being a single phase, but 2 stage and variable speed split systems do exist. I find a central split system is better with humidity control and whole house cooling and heating without having ugly head units on walls.
How many BTUs ?
I think I put a link to all of the information in the description of the video. If memory serves this is a 3-ton unit.
The only DIY people that should try anything like this are people who can afford a professional to fix it if you make a mistake. Some people who CAN'T afford a mistake will have a monumental task fixing something like this. I have seen professionals have trouble every day with some point of installation. Every day these guys "hope" to have a good day but know they might be on a phone call fixing something that the factory JUST learned is a problem with the machine. Happens everyday with this technology. Be smart.
That is so sweet! I have installed many of these and not one has ever failed. My oldest is 8 years old. Believe in yourself, you can do it!
@@TonysTractorAdventure My comment was because I am a professional and bail poor people out all the time/ Don't understand the " That is so sweet" comment.
Need a micron gauge. Thats the only way you know. Pull to 500 microns
I followed the directions, and it works great.
I passed by this video several times before I actually chose to watch it, because it is my experience that anything that starts with "...Don't want you to See This!" is meant for uneducated conspiracy nuts who think they know some secret that nobody else knows. Turned out to be a good video with an unfortunate click bait title.
You watched it. "Click Bait" success! If the video give exactly what the title says, is it click bait?
@@TonysTractorAdventure yes, when it targets stupid people like those that respond to "they don't want you to see this" The video had enough good value it did not need to target those people. I almost did not watch it because of this, how many did pass it by? Next will there be a "they don't want you to know the earth is flat" video?
@@TonysTractorAdventure Went back and looked, you have a whole lot of good videos that promise a lot of value. I subscribed.
Not installing the outside condenser a few feet from the ground is the worst-case for future performance. Dirt is the number one enemy of any condenser.
My Pioneer Lasted 18 Months the compressor went, recovered Charge same as factory weight no burnt smell, Bought Mitsubishi Zero problems 3 years now Pioneer are Not good units at least from what I experienced!
I have installed many Pioneer units. I have not had one failure. My oldest is 8 years old. I would say you had a bad install.
Mine has been going 5 years. No issues.
i like drilling into the styrofoam durafoam pad .. smart touch.
That flare is not sufficient... You should have used the premade flares.
Refrigeration has been around for years. Using single flairs has worked for years. I have installed countless air conditioner systems without any issues.
Jeez... put the air handler as is up THEN put the long line on from OUTSIDE
Watch closer and you will understand.
HVAC pros laugh 🤣
🌹🌹🌹As long as you contact me, you can find the air conditioner you want. Chinese air conditioners are the best quality air conditioners in the world, affordable and selling well globally!
Thank you. I appreciate you.
sll the good parts were edited, really little information in this video.
Thank you for your opinion.
Perhaps you could make a better video with all the pertinent information included. Oh but you don't have any content on your channel I notice. Yet you complain? Amazing.
The guy mentioned pulling a vacuum down to -30psi. That is not correct, and not even possible. Atmospheric pressure is 14.7psi. 0 psi is a vacuum, but I guess on a psi gauge you could say -14.7psi is perfect vacuum. The units of the numbers below zero on a gauge set is inches of mercury. In a one inch diameter column (or straw), a perfect vacuum will suck mercury up to a level of 30". The in Hg "inches Mercury". Hg is the atomic symbol of mercury.
Everyone is completely impressed by your post. You get a cookie today. I bet if I made a video of you for a day, you would never make a mistake. Your eliteism is an irritation to the world.
@@TonysTractorAdventure You said something really stupid in the video. It is as stupid as if I made a video and said I was inflating my tractor tire to -70 inches of mercury. Too bad you are ignorant about normal HVAC terms when making a video about installing an HVAC system. Maybe you should stick to tractor videos if you can't handle a little feedback.
@@TonysTractorAdventure Nothing elite about my comment but your comment about -30 psi was just stupid. You obviously have no engineering background and definitely not a n HVAC background, which makes me question the entire legitimacy of your video and other youtube videos. Furthermore, you can't take feedback. Sad man.
Torque on the flare nuts is critical. Didn't see you using a torque wrench. 99% of mini split issues are due to flare leaks.
I have never had a problem.
I have a friend in the Atlanta Ga. area that does HVAVC. In the last two years he has fixed over 30 DYI installs; the problem with the installs is almost always the flare quick connect fittings, they are usually over-torqued - and eventually leak. For MrCool and most others you definitely **have** to use a torque wrench to ensure a leak-free lineset; neither he nor I can reliably make leak-free connections without a torque wrench (and we both have a lot of practice).
I repaired thousands of semi truck brake lines in the Army. Copper line. I guess I have the touch. None of my ac installations have failed.
Cheap components, pay for replacement parts. Good racket.
My first one is 8 years old. Never a single problem. It may be you or your installer.
There Is By Here A Lot
Of Videos Without Using
HVAC Tools Likes Gauges
And Vacuum And Works
Perfect For DIY Installers.
Amén.
You are right. I put my first mini split in 8 years ago and it still works.
@@TonysTractorAdventure Good My Friend Which Brand ???
I hate these damn “xyz doesn’t want you to see this”. Everyone knows it’s just click bait.
Just post a honest topic “Pioneer mini split DIY install”.
And a note about units that are not major supply house supported like Mitsubishi, Gree, Fujitsu,, is if you need a part like an inverter board it can and often is a nightmare to get.
I’ve seen so many mini split units junked after a few years because a power surge took out the inverter and they couldn’t get another one.
Thank you for clicking on my click bait. I got a comment too.👍
I have a 250 foot of that ronex.
You will have a serious voltage drop at that distance. It could damage your unit.
Make sure to use a much bigger gauge copper wire.
Those pads are terrible! I didn't even know they were still sold. They're junk. They're styrofoam with a thin veneer of cement. They don't weather well, and they regularly crack. A wall bracket for a mini split is superior.
Thank you for your opinion.
You did a poor job of justifying opposition to quick connects. I would imagine the primary reason "pros" like to do it the old way is because they have the tools to forego quick connects.
Thank you for your opinion. I like it the old way so I don't have a bunch of excess, and any extra step is just another opportunity for a leak. Like I said in the video.
😂😂
:)