HVAC Pros Don't want you to See This! Pioneer Mini Split DIY INSTALL
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- Опубліковано 15 чер 2024
- How to Install a mini-split air-conditioning unit. Mini-splits are the easiest heat pump/air conditioner to install, and in most cases, they are the most efficient.
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A little trick I learned back in day working with rolled soft copper is to unroll about 6 inches, set coil flat on ground, gently step on unrolled portion and proceed to walk and unroll the entire coil. Just walk it out til it's straight. Old school plumbers taught me that one.
Not a massive time saver, but if you do lots of coiled copper, it can save time and not damage it.
As always you and your Wife always give us a great opportunity to know what you are doing at your farm I.e. house many thanks for sharing your experience and God blessed you all mate.
Our pleasure! God Bless you Joe.
Tony, that was the best explanation for a mini split, I have ever heard. I appreciate it. I was so close to putting a mini split in my new 12 x 24 shop, but ultimately chose a 14,000 btu inverter heat pump/A/C unit. Had I watched this beforehand, I would have went with the mini split, but my set up is working okay for now in this south Arkansas humidity and heat. Thanks again sir.
Marty, Brother, you need to keep your humidity in AR. It has been coming across the river and getting on my side. LOL! It is horrible here too.
Hahahaha!
Thank you again for sharing your experience to us all mate and as always God bless you all mate
My pleasure
And releasing refrigerant can also pose the danger of frost bite, so that's another good reason not to vent it. It's too bad they don't make these systems for multi room home use. My dad has one in his shop and it does well cooling it. Thanks for sharing Tony!! 👍👍
They do make them for multiple rooms. They have one outside condenser and multiple head units.
Great job!! Looks great !!
Thank you.
I've done 2 of these as an advanced DIY guy. An 18 and 24k. 2 years going strong on the 18k unit. Make sure you definitely make your own flares!
Thank you for the support. I put in a 24K 7/8 years ago by Pioneer. It is still going strong.
I has a mini split put in our upstairs master bedroom and absolutely love it.
We have one in our sunroom and one in our utility building. I first was exposed to these while deployed to Afghanistan and Iraq. They held up amazingly well.
Awesome video as always!
Thank you. The system is still running great.
Awesome stuff, as always, guys
Glad you enjoyed it!
First time watching one of your videos. Good insight, and several good tips! New sub.
Welcome aboard!
Great explanation I put my connections for my evaporator lines outside for the ease of install .Also for the ease of checking for leaks, and cleaning out of the drain line. line covers are important for the elements outside or inside.
That is why we did it the way we did. Easy to work on and keep clean.
Very good guide!
Thank you
Lol you need flaring tool , nitro to leak check, vacuum pump, and gages. Also freon depending on how long copper is......
Im looking at putting a mr. cool mini split in my cabin conversion. Really leaning towards them as they are made up the road from us in Hickory KY. They do use the precharged lineset with the quick connects that you showed. Most people seem to love them. However, i dont like the look of all the coiled up excess tubing. I may look into the pioneer brand like you installed. Shoot, i remember back when i did plumbing and piping systems, i can't tell you how many systems i put in when everything was silver soldered. Im not an hvac guy, but i do have a pump and gauges for doing my own auto ac. And i still have all my piping tools so i could do mine like you did and shorten the lineset if i went with a pioneer. Thanks for the heads up on the brand
We have been running Pioneers for about 8 years. Good unit
@TonysTractorAdventure thanks for the heads up. I'll look into them. Do you order those online or is there a local dealership? I ask as im only about 30 mins or so from your town.
Order from online
No smoke, upon crank up when doing an AC install, is a good start.
Something not blowing up is always a good sign. 😁
Pulling a vacuum to -30 doesn't mean it's properly evacuated all the moisture. Nitrogen pressure test at 350 psi is required for leak testing. A micron gauge as well as gauges of high quality are needed to do a proper job with out line set contamination.
Coming out of the left side (facing the rear of the indoor unit) would have been easier & left the connections accessible.
The pre-charge of refrigerant is normally for 15 feet of line set. Over that calls for additional refrigerant.
10/3 w/ground would not be required for this unit. 12/2 2-20A would probably be sufficient according to the MCA & maximum breaker size.
Thank you for your opinion. I followed the directions to the letter on the electrical and line install. It all works perfectly. As does the one I installed 8 years ago and everyone since.
Great video! Do these have an energy star rating? - I'm curious as to how much it would cost on average to run year round. I'm assuming this is a 220v system, I've seen they have smaller 110v systems for smaller rooms.
Yes they do. The average energy rating is listed on their website. Link in the video description.
Didn’t understand your statement about just hooking the lines up and not pulling a vacuum, that the unit would not work. My understanding is that these units are designed to work without doing the gauge/vacuum piece. That method of not having to do that is supposed to be their claim to fame for the DIYer. Please clarify…..enjoy the channel, TIA.
There are some units that have quick connects. There is already a vacuum pulled inside the lines. I am not a fan of those types, because they add complexity. I prefer the manual flare fitting .The units with manual flare fittings/ lines are exposed to open atmosphere. This is why they have to be vacuumed down after the lines are attached. Some people have just hooked them up without pulling the vacuum. That is a recipe for guaranteed failure. Again, only some brands have the Quick connect that are pre-vacuumed and I am not a fan of those. They have a higher rate of failure.
Thanks, I was looking at the Mr Cool brand.
@@TonysTractorAdventure those flare fittings should have torqued. the biggest problem is people over tighten the nuts and cut the flare.
I have never had a leak in 8 years.
Look DIY Installers
They Donot Use HVAC Tools
Gauges Or Vacuum And It
Will Work Perfect With Zero
Problems.
Amén.
I’m interested in installing one of these in our small one room cabin. The cabin originally had a woodburning stove and there’s a 6 inch hole through the logs. How could this hole be used to accommodate this type of unit? Thanks, Tim in Northern TN.
You could run the hose through the hole if the hole is in the right place. That would be a neat fix.
@@TonysTractorAdventure I’m just concerned about what to do with the extra space since the hole is much larger than the hole you cut.
@CliffsideStables I would foam it up and make some trim to look professional.
Can you shorten the lines? I am putting this into my concession trailer and I don't need 16 foot of lines.
You can shorten the lines, but if you shorten them to much you will have to have a HVAC guy remove some freon.
I’m having a 40’x60’ shop with 15’ walls. What size of system and how many wall units do you suggest?
Not enough information. How much insulation? What kind of doors do you have and are they insulated?. Do you have roof vents? Where are you located? What is your average yearly temperature during each season?
@@TonysTractorAdventure Located in northern Utah. The shop will be fully insulated and radiant floor heating.
The mini splits will be used mainly to cool in summer months and a temporary heat source in the winter if for some reason the radiant floor heat is not working. It will have a mezzanine area that will have tv and seating area. This is why I even started thinking about putting in a mini split, to keep it cool in the summer when the grandkids are watching movies.
I really wish i could have seen the part where you wired it into the panel
There are thousands of videos out there on AC disconnects. I do appreciate your feedback.
That's the easiest part of this whole process
I was told by a heating and air guy that you should not cut the lines down. For example, I think they come with like 25 feet of lines and he said I should just coil them up. Is this true? Is there a minimum length that is required?
The manual said, to cut it as needed.
The reason they recommend not cutting is the pre charge accounts for line line in kit. Have ultra short line would mean system is overcharged. Adding more line would make the system under charged. Thats little details they left out. Now depending on the charge fir line set.
So you didnt have to charge the unit? I thought the precharged lines were the quick connect diy units. If its not a DIY you need to charge with freon and vacuum the line?
So this comes charged with freon?
The charge is put in the condenser from the factory. There is enough freon in it to charge the entire unit, including the evaporator and the lines. You vacuum the lines and evaporator down to check for leaks, but just as important, your are removing other gases and moisture. When you open the two valves on the condenser, the freon rushes out into the entire vacuumed system.
@@TonysTractorAdventure ahh got it i had thought the units sold that instructed need a hvac contractor was for charging unit and doing the vacuum of line and the only diff of the DIY units was they came with precharged lines so all you did was connect lines, open, test for leaks and done. So if units come charged thats great as one of my issues with some are the linesets are only 16 feet. I would not need full charge for 25-30 ft run but enough for the 10-15 fr only.
Torque on the flare nuts is critical. Didn't see you using a torque wrench. 99% of mini split issues are due to flare leaks.
I have never had a problem.
I have a friend in the Atlanta Ga. area that does HVAVC. In the last two years he has fixed over 30 DYI installs; the problem with the installs is almost always the flare quick connect fittings, they are usually over-torqued - and eventually leak. For MrCool and most others you definitely **have** to use a torque wrench to ensure a leak-free lineset; neither he nor I can reliably make leak-free connections without a torque wrench (and we both have a lot of practice).
I repaired thousands of semi truck brake lines in the Army. Copper line. I guess I have the touch. None of my ac installations have failed.
You said you prefer this over quick connect for this reason but whats the reason? You say it adds another complexity yet the quick connect is similar the lines come pre charged, i had not seen pioneer lineset come precharged
I stand by my statement.
@@TonysTractorAdventure im asking so i know why, i am researching, i have 2 units that were precharged but the line sets connected just like the one you have. So im trying to understand what diff is.
I apologize, but I addressed the "why" in the video. Quick connects are the weakest link do to their extra complexity.
@@TonysTractorAdventure ok i went and researched as it seems you not understanding the question. You feel doing the flared connection and vacuum of lines is better, but that is where most diy folks will have issue trying to flare the line for connection and not have a leak, if have leak then they have to redo. The quick connect is done to prevent the leaks. So for diy if they dont want to buy the flare kit, vacuum kit then the quick connect works just fine. Appreciate the help, sorry if i didnt explain myself, these are very new to me and just trying to determine best route for my next 2 units. Video has some good tips and info.
So we are trying to decide on a mini split and have come up with some other points of view nobody seems to point out here or elsewhere. The company selling these things want to have a monopoly and they do that by having dealers that sign up for them and of course they can buy them at a reduced cost and make more money in addition to the installation charge.. what that ends up doing is that they say well we will only handle this one or two brands that we sell. The point is if you say have a Pioneer and you call out your local HVAC company they will say we don't service these and you will be sort of out of luck. Another thing to consider is that in 2025 there is a new mandated kind of air conditioning refrigerant and the units are different for that and maybe somebody would want to wait until then to get the upgraded units because that will be the new refrigerant and maybe it will be a better choice but they also say that the units would be higher in price since they are different and have to be more efficient thus a larger heat exchanger van units for the older refrigerant. I might if I was doing it have made a drip Loop in the tubing coming down from above so that you can have the water drip off and not congregate on the fittings and later having to find that you can't get them loose because they have corroded over time. If you're replacing an old unit you will be hit with a charge to remove it and as we all know if you were to take it out yourself then it would be jail time if they catch you. I hope this helps I am still learning and going through the Maze and Gauntlet of this technology.
I have never ran into a HVAC company that will not service equipment. That is how they make money. I think you are overthinking it. Install it and let it work. My sunroom unit has only been cleaned in 8 years. Works perfectly.
sll the good parts were edited, really little information in this video.
Thank you for your opinion.
There Is By Here A Lot
Of Videos Without Using
HVAC Tools Likes Gauges
And Vacuum And Works
Perfect For DIY Installers.
Amén.
You are right. I put my first mini split in 8 years ago and it still works.
@@TonysTractorAdventure Good My Friend Which Brand ???
Flaring your own lines is not as easy as it looks. Did you hear him say if it leaks you have to do it all over and over again. These are the pros that hope you will screw up so that you will have to call them. What a scam.
If you can't flare a line set and install a mini split you aren't too bright. Very easy
I passed by this video several times before I actually chose to watch it, because it is my experience that anything that starts with "...Don't want you to See This!" is meant for uneducated conspiracy nuts who think they know some secret that nobody else knows. Turned out to be a good video with an unfortunate click bait title.
You watched it. "Click Bait" success! If the video give exactly what the title says, is it click bait?
@@TonysTractorAdventure yes, when it targets stupid people like those that respond to "they don't want you to see this" The video had enough good value it did not need to target those people. I almost did not watch it because of this, how many did pass it by? Next will there be a "they don't want you to know the earth is flat" video?
@@TonysTractorAdventure Went back and looked, you have a whole lot of good videos that promise a lot of value. I subscribed.
😂😂
You did a poor job of justifying opposition to quick connects. I would imagine the primary reason "pros" like to do it the old way is because they have the tools to forego quick connects.
Thank you for your opinion. I like it the old way so I don't have a bunch of excess, and any extra step is just another opportunity for a leak. Like I said in the video.
I’m more concerned about electrical part, I have regular electrical outlet outside, can I use that as power source??
To meet code, you need an outside cutoff. This unit needs 30 amps. Smaller units need 20 amps.
You should install a surge protector also. The circuitry of these units is susceptible to power surges. It’s cheap insurance.