Christmas morning 2019, been at my families for 2 hours. Sat down and watched a 10 minute video about radon and plumbing..I dont own a house, nor know how to plum... Merry Christmas
Lol happens a lot in new england my house as a kid no problems tested once a year neighbors had radon in basement's and another's had it in their well also
If the hot water heating system doesn't have an air vent in it, that's what happens. Seems strange they're bothered about radon - and have an opportunity to remove dissolved gasses and don''t use it !
This is the first time I ever heard and saw anything about the well water radon extraction device. Thanks George for such simple explanation of the residential well water distribution system in general and the radon extraction device in specific. I learned something new and useful today.
He's got a pretty good setup for removing radon and sediment. Its an outdated system though. These days you can get an whole house three stage filter system that removes radon, sediment, organic chemicals, etc.. and mounts right to the wall (filters are 20 x 4.5").
A proper solution would have been to increase flow INTO the radon remover instead of restricting flow afterward. That guy had so little volume left over coming out of that faucet it makes me sad.
looncraz - I don’t know man, 5gpm is a lot of water. I have a huge tub with a very large faucet to satisfy that tub with a flow of about 4gpm. When it’s flowing at its maximum of 4gpm it just gushes out, it seems to be a ton of water.
Paul M the problem is when 2 sinks and the washer are on or someone is in the shower the dishwasher is running and someone else flushes a toilet. The more gpms the better
I like having a well...very cheap to maintain overall. Spent 800 on new well pump and 200 on pressure tank couple times... Not bad for 20 years.. and maybe pumped septic 5 times about a $1000 total. So $2000 and around $600 for softner, and maybe $1000 in pellets. Compared with $60-$100 a momth water bill. Which is $720-$1200 per year times 20 is $14800-24000. Costs balance out at the end of it, I like having constant water available without concern of unexpected water bills.
There is benefits both ways. Your water bill is going to be fairly consistent every month unless you fill a pool or develop a leak you never notice. The surprise of a slightly larger water bill is nothing compared to the surprise of finding out you have a bad well and need to drill a new one. Not everyone has that $5,000 to $10,000 just sitting around. Or finding out your water is contaminated and need a UV filter or Radon diffuser. In the long a well is probably cheaper but it comes with a lot of large up front costs and any well problems are your problems. Being on city water you might pay more overall but it's the same consistent amount and if the water stops, you call the city to come out and fix it.
@@brandonfrancey5592 yep if the price is the same on one hand you just pay a bill and get a minimum standard of pressure, quality, and unlimited water on the other its a large upfront cost, repairs, replacements, area to house equipment, all which you are responsible to pay someone to fix/replace. SO if they come out to the same 20yr price I would say it would only be feasible in areas that have no city water option. But that's just my 2 cents.
i'm more concerned with well water having radon in it. i wouldn't trust a radon mitigation system as the last step between me and my family and potential health issues.
Prime example of why you pay your plumber allot of money. No regular guy can figure that 1 out even after being shown pictures and all. WOW that is a smart man
When we bought our place , we hired a home inspector to give us a detailed report on all the systems. The roof, electric, windows, insulation, drainage, framing-foundation. And well, plumbing. 250 $ and worth every penny..
I laughed out loud when the faucet spit at the user. I love these sink fixtures but something to think about when high end restaurants have this in the bathroom and you know you'll be expected at table, dry or not. :D
I'm confused why he didn't try to fix the amount of water entering the radon mitigation system. If there's a restriction on the flow, seems like you'd want to try to fix that first before reducing the outflow to the house.
just a question and I'm by no means a plumber, but wouldn't the radon mitigation systems pump shut off when the water is low? I thought I saw the float valves in the tank when he took the lid off. I know that would stop all water flow out, but allow the tank to catch up...
Correct me if I'm wrong because I don't know anything about plumbing but couldn't he have just put the radon system first in the chain. Like instead of having the water run through the filters as soon as it comes out of the ground, put the mitigation system first followed by whatever filters the homeowner wants.
a ball valve should never be used as a flow control device. It is meant to turn the water off or on. If a ball valve is used to restrict the water flow it will cause the seal to be eroded away by the high-velocity water flow.
All I have in my basement is a hot water heater because I get city water. I have no filter, no cleaner, no neutralizer, no stabilizer, no pump, no radon remover, no pressure adjustment and no Water softener. And I'm glad. With all those gadgets, i would be afraid something would always break.
Why not increase flow to the radon separator or restrict only at the washer instead of restricting the entire house? I would think it will lower the pressure in the shower in this case.
Nah that should be fine, if anything it would just require you to clean the radon tank out every once in a while. Shop vac would work perfectly for that.
What about having a larger reserve tank? 7 gallons? WTH is that. Triple that capacity and eliminate the extra ball valve. Plus the water that’s sitting in the tank has more time to off gas. Seems like common sense, but, common sense isn’t so common, or so I’ve been told.
I would have installed an electrically-controlled shut-off valve, instead of a flow restricter, at the feed line into the house and washing machine. That valve would shut on any occasion when the supply in the black radon-abatement tank goes too low. Further improvement might be afforded by a larger filter surface area on the supply side of said tank.
Tony Baggett - I don't see anything wrong with them if a homeowner does it, but I'd expect a pro to crimp it... Just my non pro opinion, but I really don't see those as a way to install _every_ connection unless you are a homeowner without the tools. Copper to pex I may be ok with them using one but I'd still want a solid soldered or crimped copper fitting from a pro installer.
volvo09 they are great for repairs or connecting non-similar material. Even adding the valve like he did is good. But when the installer of the system used that many, wow! For the cost of all those shark bites you could have bought a very nice crimping tool and enough fittings and crimp rings to plumb an entire house!
@@EagleKeeper86 actually front loading washing machines are better and more economical and they are the best ever and they will dry out if the door is left open,drying the rubber seal is even better
@@stephensnell1379 I’m not going to leave the door open because of an inferior design. The economical aspect you speak of is minimal at best with the newer HE top loading washers.
Richard solved the mystery--he's the Agatha Christie of plumbers. I'm glad his explanation to Kevin included the tidbit that the "faucet spitting" was radon-air! That wasn't good, and it's a safety issue for the homeowner to make sure it--the radon-air--get's properly exhausted above the house, and doesn't enter the living spaces (or basement).
radon can stick to cloths due to the fact its a radioactive byproduct of uranium degradation and as a result it can be absorbed through your skin if you wash cloths in contaminated water
There is a blower on the drum which blows it out to the rooftop. If the water level in the drum is too low, then the air will be blown into house plumbing system, which caused the bubbling.
Brown filter is where I will always start..radon in the water would put me off, i don't know enough about it to know if it's worth the risk & expense to live there..must really love the property.
So technically shouldn’t there be a third float switch to tell the output pump not to come on if there’s not enough water in the black tank till it reaches a certain level then it will fill that pressure tank. To me it seems like the output pump is calling for more water then is available in the black tank and can’t keep up with the demand of the incoming water so if there was a third float switch to control the output pump not to come on when there’s not enough water then it would fix the issue without restricting the flow on the output at all!
I thought the exact same thing. The only pro to the restrictor is a reliable steady flow of water. With a float switch you would be washing your hands and the water would just stop flowing.
Why didn't they just put the water softener before the pressure tank that way the water gets treated before going to the pressure tank thus it is easier for it to maintain 7GPM. Also they could get a bigger radon mitigation tank.
Don't you just love all of the freaking experts that thinks they know it all. Yes sarcasm. Come on people These guys are professionals so they must be doing something right
His house is run by BP. Yeah I've worked at that house as a water quality tech supervisor regional manager. They didn't show you the guard shack and 5 techs that it takes to run that water system. But it is a thing of beauty. ;)
Radon half-life is around four days. Wonder what his picocurie level was? Above the EPA action level, if I infer correctly from this. How about a hot shower in a cloud of radon hitting 24 picocuries every time!?
If its because the top loader takes more water than the system can provide in a short time, why not just switch to a front loader to reduce the water usage?
If it were me, i'd just add an extra tank after the radon air thingy. That acts as "surplus water" to supply to the pump, and allow for natural sediment settling (and gas removal). He's short 1-2 gallons/minute, so a 60 gallon tank would give him 30 minutes of continuous flow before the gargling occurs
I have a plumbing question - in my main floor bathroom, my shower turns really cold. The strange part is, when I divert the water to the tub filler it is scorching hot. When it is diverted to the shower head it goes Lukewarm/cold. I've taken off the spigot assembly and saw that there is an insert that allows you to adjust the temperature of the shower. The agonizing part is - it's already on the hottest setting! Along with that, the water used to be perfectly fine until recently. Any ideas?
Tankless water heater has a flow sensor going bad? Tub spout dumps more volume than the showerhead and will more easily trigger a failing flow sensor to tell a tankless water heater to come on
My sister's house had the same problem as you describe. She called a plumber and he replaced the mixing valve behind the shower knob or shower handle. My sister is overjoyed as she can enjoy HOT showers again. Prior to the fix, I stayed a few days and took showers in her bathroom. The water temp would fluctuate, hot then lukewarm, cold, then repeat. Ugh!
I was thinking the same thing. Not only is that almost a 100% ironclad guarantee of a flooded basement one day, but the amount of money spent on all those fittings probably rivals the elaborate filtration system. Whoa.
Looks to me like a bodge of a fix ! There were 2 float switches in the radon separator - I'd suggest one of these should have been connected to the next pump to ensure it didn't run when the water level was too low !
So he saying that the air is coming from the black tank that is separating the gases and water. And he said it’s because the black tank fill line can’t keep up with the water output? So what do those two float switches do doesn’t one control the output pump on and off if the incoming water gpm is lower shouldn’t the float say the output pump can’t come on till the water is high enough? It would seem that if the output pump was sucking air from the black tank bottom fitting then the pump would always loose prime! Right?
What keeps the water from being contaminated by something coming down through the radon mitigation vent? Also, is the air that is pumped into the tank filtered? That design just looks a little sketchy to me, but I have zero experience with anything like it...
Absolutely the most complex home water supply systems I've ever seen
I had one more complex
@@justayoutuber1906 I had one more complex than yours.
Christmas morning 2019, been at my families for 2 hours. Sat down and watched a 10 minute video about radon and plumbing..I dont own a house, nor know how to plum... Merry Christmas
Let me just grab this random radon mitigation system that I just have in my truck...
"When I run into this problem I just pull out my $3,000 tool that everybody has in their back pocket..."
Lol
You never know when you need a radon mitigation system.
onecomputerkid I like how nothing is dirty and everything looks freshly installed lol
onecomputerkid DVD’s-
NO WONDER THE PRICE ON THE HOUSE WAS SUCH A GREAT DEAL. GUYS GOT CHERNOBYL UNDER HIS BASEMENT !
Charles Velten gay
Lol happens a lot in new england my house as a kid no problems tested once a year neighbors had radon in basement's and another's had it in their well also
Common in the northeast. Anywhere that has granite bedrock..
Well radon is a big issue in the whole world. And especially if the house is placed over rockbed
@@tullgutten when my bed rocks i'm having fun
“Water is on”
“Water looks normal”
Me: the water is coming out white...
Microscopic bubbles usually caused by dissolved gasses like Co2 or by having a good water heater causing microscopic bubbles of steam.
@@SirFloofy001 and unfortunately Radon.
Thought it was just me... LOL
If the hot water heating system doesn't have an air vent in it, that's what happens. Seems strange they're bothered about radon - and have an opportunity to remove dissolved gasses and don''t use it !
Water saver faucets have built in aerator, thus water appears white
This is the first time I ever heard and saw anything about the well water radon extraction device. Thanks George for such simple explanation of the residential well water distribution system in general and the radon extraction device in specific. I learned something new and useful today.
Radon in the water. Everytime he drinks the tap its +3 Rads
Probably Fallout fan :)
@@rpriesol Exactly what a synth would say.
make sure he stocks up on radaway
Just go to diamond city pick up some radaway and all is good
He's got a pretty good setup for removing radon and sediment. Its an outdated system though. These days you can get an whole house three stage filter system that removes radon, sediment, organic chemicals, etc.. and mounts right to the wall (filters are 20 x 4.5").
Tests the water: “3.6 roentgen. Not bad, not great.”
That's what you get when you have well water that is dirty as hell!
*throws radon mitigation manual at customer*
“There - review it”
Thanks Rich, you are quite the problem solver. You've helped me a lot thru the years with your great videos. Thanks for sharing.
Wow I'll never complain about my hard water again!
hard water? Could be worse your water could have a cancer causing gas in it, or be flammable. Flint Creek we will remember you...…..
Richard's brilliance and expertise never ceases to amaze me
The first thing I'd do is get rid of that faucet.
I used to think they looked cool. After seeing the water shoot out instead of down, I'll never own one.
They look cool, but stuff can collect in the channel and they lack the pressure to blast toothpaste out of a toothbrush. Hard pass.
Justin can't have any toothpaste left on your toothbrush.
Lol... Problem solved...except for the radon gas in the house
These type of faucets are expensive
It looks like milk coming out of that faucet
pashastookie 😆 lol it’s air in the water , so many tiny bubbles, that it turns it whiteish color ....pretty funny tho
I stared at it for a bit till i remembered it had an aerator
Jeremy Beesley you believe what you want to, I still say it's milk.
gtasandman it doesn’t have an aerator. It is a waterfall style faucet.
Have you ever been to Long Beach ca? It looks like milk.. and that’s city water
A proper solution would have been to increase flow INTO the radon remover instead of restricting flow afterward.
That guy had so little volume left over coming out of that faucet it makes me sad.
looncraz would that require replacing the pump underground with a higher rated gpm?
looncraz - I don’t know man, 5gpm is a lot of water. I have a huge tub with a very large faucet to satisfy that tub with a flow of about 4gpm. When it’s flowing at its maximum of 4gpm it just gushes out, it seems to be a ton of water.
Those faucets aren’t supposed to have a ton of flow. It looked normal to me.
Most faucets are designed for 1-2 GPM Shower heads around 2 GPM. 5GPM is more then enough
Paul M the problem is when 2 sinks and the washer are on or someone is in the shower the dishwasher is running and someone else flushes a toilet. The more gpms the better
I like having a well...very cheap to maintain overall. Spent 800 on new well pump and 200 on pressure tank couple times... Not bad for 20 years.. and maybe pumped septic 5 times about a $1000 total. So $2000 and around $600 for softner, and maybe $1000 in pellets. Compared with $60-$100 a momth water bill. Which is $720-$1200 per year times 20 is $14800-24000.
Costs balance out at the end of it, I like having constant water available without concern of unexpected water bills.
There is benefits both ways. Your water bill is going to be fairly consistent every month unless you fill a pool or develop a leak you never notice. The surprise of a slightly larger water bill is nothing compared to the surprise of finding out you have a bad well and need to drill a new one. Not everyone has that $5,000 to $10,000 just sitting around. Or finding out your water is contaminated and need a UV filter or Radon diffuser. In the long a well is probably cheaper but it comes with a lot of large up front costs and any well problems are your problems. Being on city water you might pay more overall but it's the same consistent amount and if the water stops, you call the city to come out and fix it.
@@brandonfrancey5592 yep if the price is the same on one hand you just pay a bill and get a minimum standard of pressure, quality, and unlimited water on the other its a large upfront cost, repairs, replacements, area to house equipment, all which you are responsible to pay someone to fix/replace. SO if they come out to the same 20yr price I would say it would only be feasible in areas that have no city water option. But that's just my 2 cents.
I average 50 a month for municipal water, or 1200 dollars a year, two full bathrooms, no gardens.
@@pavelow235 wouldn't $50 per month be $600 not $1200 a year?
@@pavelow235 yeah my water bill averages $12 a month, ($144 year average) for one person, one full bath, and no other extra water usage like gardens.
Richard Trethewey is a genius! I wish I could hire him.
And the filter housing still had contaminates floating around (6:58) when he installed it with a new filter? Why?
Looks like a lot of stuff to go wrong.
Oh I'm sure he's putting a plumbers kid through Harvard.
DarkRaptor99
What's wrong with a plumber kid going to Harvard?
It was a joke about how much the guy probably charged to do the job. Nothing is wrong about a plumber or a carpenters kid going to Harvard.
@@johnperdue7541 he's probably pretarded due to the water.
@@DarkRaptor99 not with all thru sharkbite, that's home owner junk
what's with all the sharkbite? you're already using PEX. Just do the crimping or better yet let the PEX do the compression.
Its staged they wanna make it look as easy as possible they dont care about longevity..
why not move the sediment filtration downstream from the radon mitigation system
Who has an extra radon mitigation device?
A semi-scripted plumbing video
carmelo navarro
Dumbasses who have money and no common sense, believe in global warming, and that plastic won't leach into the drinking water........
TBH I'd prefer plastic to radon
Anyone who does not want too get cancer from.
@@kalijasin Meh, I smoke unfiltered Plow Boy hand rolled cigarettes. Bring in on, Radon! Show me what you got!
Very interesting. Seems like a lot could go wrong and bad planning for order of filtration devices. Cool Radon mitigation system, never seen one.
9:18 "....is actually radon..."
BINGO! good thing Richard fixed it!
6:57 FFS you changed the filter...at least clean out the housing before reassembling...floaties
Richard is a genius. Not sure how many people could have figured that out!
As a home buyer I am taking one look at that rats nest of a water system and saying “I’m out”
i'm more concerned with well water having radon in it. i wouldn't trust a radon mitigation system as the last step between me and my family and potential health issues.
I’m a plumber, stay away from wells $$$$$$$
You don't get a choice depending where you want to live
Its a manifold so he can turn off sections of his home similar to a breaker box
@@dodgeplow but you DO have a choice of where you live.
Prime example of why you pay your plumber allot of money. No regular guy can figure that 1 out even after being shown pictures and all. WOW that is a smart man
He crushed it with the liquid mask. Outstanding!
Richard is smart & genius
When we bought our place , we hired a home inspector to give us a detailed report on all the systems.
The roof, electric, windows, insulation, drainage, framing-foundation. And well, plumbing.
250 $ and worth every penny..
Ya gotta want to live in that neighborhood to buy a house with that much damn plumbing! GEESH!!!
I laughed out loud when the faucet spit at the user. I love these sink fixtures but something to think about when high end restaurants have this in the bathroom and you know you'll be expected at table, dry or not. :D
Such s small repair for a system so complex!
Great video!! Can you tell us to how take air out of water lines?
Richard what do you think about sharkbite fittings?
Both pressure accumulators are too small for a normal house. Crazy system installed like that.
Richard is awesome. I love this show.
i work in dialysis, we have a pretty cool water room for purifying tap water. I always enjoy seeing people's cool water setups
I'm confused why he didn't try to fix the amount of water entering the radon mitigation system. If there's a restriction on the flow, seems like you'd want to try to fix that first before reducing the outflow to the house.
Do you have to worry about radon with a concrete slab?
just a question and I'm by no means a plumber, but wouldn't the radon mitigation systems pump shut off when the water is low? I thought I saw the float valves in the tank when he took the lid off. I know that would stop all water flow out, but allow the tank to catch up...
Correct me if I'm wrong because I don't know anything about plumbing but couldn't he have just put the radon system first in the chain. Like instead of having the water run through the filters as soon as it comes out of the ground, put the mitigation system first followed by whatever filters the homeowner wants.
the RN-222 decay chain does start with U-238 but Alpha decays directly from Ra-226.....
0:16 lmao you got startled
a ball valve should never be used as a flow control device. It is meant to turn the water off or on. If a ball valve is used to restrict the water flow it will cause the seal to be eroded away by the high-velocity water flow.
Why not install a bigger reservoir or pressure tank to match the max outflow volume?
On a regular water system could no anti knocks at water lines ends have the same symptom?
I'm pretty sure I saw this on TV a few months ago. First time I've seen a clip on here that I saw on tv too lol.
knew about Radon, didnt know it was in water too...something else to buy
I think he should also replace those washers with high efficiency units.
You fool it's a washing machine and dryer
How did Annette restriction or changing the flow affect water pressure throughout the house?
All I have in my basement is a hot water heater because I get city water. I have no filter, no cleaner, no neutralizer, no stabilizer, no pump, no radon remover, no pressure adjustment and no Water softener. And I'm glad. With all those gadgets, i would be afraid something would always break.
would the Radon be harmful to wash cloths in ? could run the washer before the Radon Mitigation ?
Why not increase flow to the radon separator or restrict only at the washer instead of restricting the entire house? I would think it will lower the pressure in the shower in this case.
The Faucet simply doesn't respect you as the owner. You just have to show it who's boss to get it to respect you.
Love the videos. We learned in class, however, not to use a ball valve to meter the water supply. The proper valve would be a gate valve
No way would you ever use a gate valve to meter with. Maybe a globe valve.
Radon is in Granite counter tops but its look excellent. So I don’t give the radiation to much though
Why not install a bigger reservoir after the radon mitigation system?
Why not fix it right and move all the filtration after the radon mitigation.
Looked like sediment filteration, if enough I doubt would want that getting over into the Radon Mitigation reservoir ?
Nah that should be fine, if anything it would just require you to clean the radon tank out every once in a while. Shop vac would work perfectly for that.
Why not just put the radon mitigation unit in the well house?
That was literally a perfect description
I see that gate valve with packing nut upside down by the radon mitigation device. NO NO as sediment will build up in the valve!
You are so good to explain problems.👍
What about having a larger reserve tank? 7 gallons? WTH is that. Triple that capacity and eliminate the extra ball valve. Plus the water that’s sitting in the tank has more time to off gas. Seems like common sense, but, common sense isn’t so common, or so I’ve been told.
True.
Thats what i thought increase the reserve tank and the problem would be solved i mean what do you do when you take a shower
May be the issue would be the raidio active ionisation of the water supply that would be the issue, bot apparenttly its the pressure.
Great video guys!
Richard is very knowledgeable!
That's an easy to get to and service kind of system.
I would have installed an electrically-controlled shut-off valve, instead of a flow restricter, at the feed line into the house and washing machine. That valve would shut on any occasion when the supply in the black radon-abatement tank goes too low. Further improvement might be afforded by a larger filter surface area on the supply side of said tank.
That's one smart plumber
Holy Sharkbites Batman!
Trey Andrews I was thinking that to. Never seen so many in an install. Nothing wrong with it just bumps up the cost quite a bit.
Tony Baggett - I don't see anything wrong with them if a homeowner does it, but I'd expect a pro to crimp it... Just my non pro opinion, but I really don't see those as a way to install _every_ connection unless you are a homeowner without the tools. Copper to pex I may be ok with them using one but I'd still want a solid soldered or crimped copper fitting from a pro installer.
volvo09 they are great for repairs or connecting non-similar material. Even adding the valve like he did is good. But when the installer of the system used that many, wow! For the cost of all those shark bites you could have bought a very nice crimping tool and enough fittings and crimp rings to plumb an entire house!
Tony Baggett the guy that installed that was a fitting supplier
iTech - he certainly supplied the homeowner with some :)
Start with getting a frontloading washing machine.
Saves tons of water and electricity.
The only downsize is that you have to put that special cleaning tablet in every month to clean them.
A Stanton1966 yup, front loaders suck because they never really dry out. Get a top load HE
@@EagleKeeper86 actually front loading washing machines are better and more economical and they are the best ever and they will dry out if the door is left open,drying the rubber seal is even better
@@stephensnell1379 I’m not going to leave the door open because of an inferior design. The economical aspect you speak of is minimal at best with the newer HE top loading washers.
Richard solved the mystery--he's the Agatha Christie of plumbers. I'm glad his explanation to Kevin included the tidbit that the "faucet spitting" was radon-air! That wasn't good, and it's a safety issue for the homeowner to make sure it--the radon-air--get's properly exhausted above the house, and doesn't enter the living spaces (or basement).
Wouldnt it also be a good idea to tap the washer before the raydon can it doesnt matter if the washer water has raydon in it
radon can stick to cloths due to the fact its a radioactive byproduct of uranium degradation and as a result it can be absorbed through your skin if you wash cloths in contaminated water
Why not run a pre-radon filtered line to the washing machine?
I don't know for sure from the video, but I'd assume the washer vents air into the house and is not in an area sealed off from the rest of the house.
What happens to the radon that has been removed from the water?
There is a blower on the drum which blows it out to the rooftop. If the water level in the drum is too low, then the air will be blown into house plumbing system, which caused the bubbling.
Brown filter is where I will always start..radon in the water would put me off, i don't know enough about it to know if it's worth the risk & expense to live there..must really love the property.
why would a sediment filter be the last step instead of the first. The path flow of all the filters and treatments just seem really inefficient to me.
That water system is insane. This is why I made sure I had city water, lol.
So technically shouldn’t there be a third float switch to tell the output pump not to come on if there’s not enough water in the black tank till it reaches a certain level then it will fill that pressure tank. To me it seems like the output pump is calling for more water then is available in the black tank and can’t keep up with the demand of the incoming water so if there was a third float switch to control the output pump not to come on when there’s not enough water then it would fix the issue without restricting the flow on the output at all!
I thought the exact same thing. The only pro to the restrictor is a reliable steady flow of water. With a float switch you would be washing your hands and the water would just stop flowing.
Dude that’s a complex system!
This question is for me
Both pressure tanks should be 40/60 and inside should be 38 for a 2 story home?
I can't wait to see Kevin in Omaha, NE!
Ball valves should not be used for limiting flow. He should have used a gate valve or at the least a globe valve.
Gate valves are also very poor for throttling flow.
Why didn't they just put the water softener before the pressure tank that way the water gets treated before going to the pressure tank thus it is easier for it to maintain 7GPM. Also they could get a bigger radon mitigation tank.
Don't you just love all of the freaking experts that thinks they know it all. Yes sarcasm. Come on people These guys are professionals so they must be doing something right
People in the comments think they know what they are on about when in fact they know absolutely nothing compared to Richard in the video
That water system was crazy !!! My life is very simple.
dig a 25' cistern to hold the treated water.
That's what everyone used in Key West, FL before city water.
Blimey more pipes than a petroleum plant !
His house is run by BP. Yeah I've worked at that house as a water quality tech supervisor regional manager. They didn't show you the guard shack and 5 techs that it takes to run that water system. But it is a thing of beauty. ;)
Jeff Jones more pipes than an english newspaper station
Radon half-life is around four days. Wonder what his picocurie level was? Above the EPA action level, if I infer correctly from this. How about a hot shower in a cloud of radon hitting 24 picocuries every time!?
Thanks, Richard, for your best
If its because the top loader takes more water than the system can provide in a short time, why not just switch to a front loader to reduce the water usage?
If it were me, i'd just add an extra tank after the radon air thingy. That acts as "surplus water" to supply to the pump, and allow for natural sediment settling (and gas removal). He's short 1-2 gallons/minute, so a 60 gallon tank would give him 30 minutes of continuous flow before the gargling occurs
I have a plumbing question - in my main floor bathroom, my shower turns really cold. The strange part is, when I divert the water to the tub filler it is scorching hot. When it is diverted to the shower head it goes Lukewarm/cold. I've taken off the spigot assembly and saw that there is an insert that allows you to adjust the temperature of the shower. The agonizing part is - it's already on the hottest setting! Along with that, the water used to be perfectly fine until recently. Any ideas?
Tankless water heater has a flow sensor going bad? Tub spout dumps more volume than the showerhead and will more easily trigger a failing flow sensor to tell a tankless water heater to come on
My sister's house had the same problem as you describe. She called a plumber and he replaced the mixing valve behind the shower knob or shower handle. My sister is overjoyed as she can enjoy HOT showers again. Prior to the fix, I stayed a few days and took showers in her bathroom. The water temp would fluctuate, hot then lukewarm, cold, then repeat. Ugh!
Why does his water look so cloudy? Is that normal for well water?
I’ve never seen so many sharkbite quick connects in one house!
I was thinking the same thing. Not only is that almost a 100% ironclad guarantee of a flooded basement one day, but the amount of money spent on all those fittings probably rivals the elaborate filtration system. Whoa.
Looks to me like a bodge of a fix ! There were 2 float switches in the radon separator - I'd suggest one of these should have been connected to the next pump to ensure it didn't run when the water level was too low !
Would that mean the water pressure would shut off at times?
That was fascinating.
Lol, he shakes the bucket at 6:36 as if he were "shaking the dew off his lily" 😅
This comment deserves more likes
So he saying that the air is coming from the black tank that is separating the gases and water. And he said it’s because the black tank fill line can’t keep up with the water output? So what do those two float switches do doesn’t one control the output pump on and off if the incoming water gpm is lower shouldn’t the float say the output pump can’t come on till the water is high enough? It would seem that if the output pump was sucking air from the black tank bottom fitting then the pump would always loose prime! Right?
What keeps the water from being contaminated by something coming down through the radon mitigation vent? Also, is the air that is pumped into the tank filtered? That design just looks a little sketchy to me, but I have zero experience with anything like it...
athhud These are relevant concerns. A dead bird in the vent pipe... drip... drip... drip...