From what I've seen, the slot in slotted inserts is for a special tool. In what I've seen so far the slotted end always goes on top. The tool is very handy if you're going to be using lots of them but if you're only putting in only a few, then nut and bolt is just fine of course.
We have a line of hex driven inserts which work much better in hardwood and dont require any glue and are driven in by allen key. Happy to send samples if you are interested. The slot-drive insert you are using is designed for soft-wood with the slot being using to drive in with a screwdriver ( or we have a special tool which makes it a lot easier.) Can be viewed on our website at www.rampa.com/ca.
i wish i had watched this BEFORE i tried installing a few. just the nut on the screw part made the job so much simpler. cant believe i missed something so obvious lol. thank you! it helped! edit: oh and those slots you thought were for a screwdriver, were for a specialty driver bit that sells as part of a kit with the brass threaded inserts. the bit rips the slot to shreds though in hardwood, too much torque is needed. the right side up & upside down thing though, is probably more like the over/under on the TP roll argument it probably doesnt really matter either way ;)
Hey man great video. Ever have problems with them coming out after pulling bolts back out? Ive been trying to use these to attach breadboard extensions. They have worked okay but I have had cases where the epoxy didn't hold and the bolts pulled the inserts out.
Sergey Romanov: if you have to dry fit something and remove the bolt afterwards, the heat expansion could cause the insert to twist inside the wood. the epoxy prevents that, allowing the bolt to be removed.
Ray the 5 th cut that's true, but for the application I used it, it need not ever be taken out. It was a dining table. The legs only need to be removed for moving.
Lots of keyboard warrior trolls on this comment thread. The bottom line is whether this method works for you or not. It threads in. It is epoxied and thus permanent, although epoxy isn’t necessary especially if you want to reuse them later, but if its for furniture then chances are it will be permanent. I️ have seen both ways, and it depends on the manufacturer of the fastener. Most are designed for the slot facing DOWN. I️ dont bother with the slotted kind, I️ prefer the hex headed one bc I️ control the torque when inserting it, especially if the wood is prone to splitting. The only criticism I️ have of this video is that it desperately needs basic editing, like cut out the whole 30 seconds of mixing epoxy and maybe have the kids turn the TV down, also make it end right and not just cut off. Overall, the video serves its purpose and I️ see no reason to trash it, but trolls will be trolls.
I was comparing this 6:26 video to the other guy's 1:23 video and I preferred the latter because it's more straightforward, undemanding or effortless while the former is making easy things very complicated. IOW, the 5:03 difference is really unnecessary for making a threaded insert video. Just my .02cents
The notches in the insert go up. They should be installed using a threaded insert installation tool. See part # 94110A120 @ McMaster.com to see an example.
I think the slot goes down and the slot acts like a cutter to cut the threads, so I've watch several of these videos and only saw yours and two others so far that did it the right way with the slot goes in first. Makes sense.
Ha ha! No - sensible DIY'ers are not like you .. they get the job done right with the correct tools ~ like the E-Z LOK driver bit. Check ua-cam.com/video/knlcEbupJLI/v-deo.html @25 secs and you'll see why the manufacturers have designed a slot into the threaded inserts, not only for fitting but also for removal if necessary.
David Terry there's a community of wood workers that aren't traditionally trained that use this platform to learn and get ideas. We're offering ways to learn from each other good or bad, but we learn through constructive criticism. You have provided nothing of use: so "go ahead" and piss off wanker!!!
@Aaron Neville nop, he's right: 1. it's not straight (go look for a jig or a drill press), 2. the nut has those channels for a specific key to use and not because it will shrink inside the wood (that's just wrong to think) so it's screwed with the wrong end. 3. epoxy? will it do any help at all since all it will be cleared when inserting?
You used threaded inserts intended for SOFT wood. You put them in BACKWARD. There is a SPECIAL BIT for driving these in that holds them securely and drives it in by the slots.
Really does not know what he is doing. First the make a tool to insert those, less tha 10.00 well worth it if you have a lot to . Slot to top No tool a bolt with double nuts will work. Cut head off and use drill press turning by hand
New drinking game...every time he says, "go ahead", take a shot. You'll be wasted by minute 1:30
From what I've seen, the slot in slotted inserts is for a special tool. In what I've seen so far the slotted end always goes on top. The tool is very handy if you're going to be using lots of them but if you're only putting in only a few, then nut and bolt is just fine of course.
We have a line of hex driven inserts which work much better in hardwood and dont require any glue and are driven in by allen key. Happy to send samples if you are interested. The slot-drive insert you are using is designed for soft-wood with the slot being using to drive in with a screwdriver ( or we have a special tool which makes it a lot easier.) Can be viewed on our website at www.rampa.com/ca.
Is there a minimum order?
@@lindrake8315100 pieces per product. Thanks.
i wish i had watched this BEFORE i tried installing a few. just the nut on the screw part made the job so much simpler. cant believe i missed something so obvious lol. thank you! it helped!
edit: oh and those slots you thought were for a screwdriver, were for a specialty driver bit that sells as part of a kit with the brass threaded inserts. the bit rips the slot to shreds though in hardwood, too much torque is needed. the right side up & upside down thing though, is probably more like the over/under on the TP roll argument it probably doesnt really matter either way ;)
What's on the television so loud?
Hey man great video. Ever have problems with them coming out after pulling bolts back out? Ive been trying to use these to attach breadboard extensions. They have worked okay but I have had cases where the epoxy didn't hold and the bolts pulled the inserts out.
Are there any that can just be hammered in?
Hi, what size insert nut are you using? & how thick is the wood?
You’re putting them in upside down, the slots are for the special tool
True, but the slots aren't needed with this technique, and the end result looks better this way.
What size are those?
I do not think epoxy is necessary.
Sergey Romanov: if you have to dry fit something and remove the bolt afterwards, the heat expansion could cause the insert to twist inside the wood. the epoxy prevents that, allowing the bolt to be removed.
Anyway it looks like all epoxy is pushed out by tightness.
What size are you using?
The issue I have with the epoxy & the slotted end down is that you will never get that out ever.
Ray the 5 th cut that's true, but for the application I used it, it need not ever be taken out. It was a dining table. The legs only need to be removed for moving.
What happens if you don’t use epoxy?
Thanks very helpfull
The proper way is with the slots facing up. Those slots are engaged by ears on a specialty tool that chucks up in your cordless drill. Slots face out.
Where did you get the inserts? Thanks
Andrew lowes or home depot or hardware store
looks like that 'slot' will give a bit of a curring action on the first two threads, also, not a bad thing...
Lots of keyboard warrior trolls on this comment thread. The bottom line is whether this method works for you or not. It threads in. It is epoxied and thus permanent, although epoxy isn’t necessary especially if you want to reuse them later, but if its for furniture then chances are it will be permanent. I️ have seen both ways, and it depends on the manufacturer of the fastener. Most are designed for the slot facing DOWN. I️ dont bother with the slotted kind, I️ prefer the hex headed one bc I️ control the torque when inserting it, especially if the wood is prone to splitting. The only criticism I️ have of this video is that it desperately needs basic editing, like cut out the whole 30 seconds of mixing epoxy and maybe have the kids turn the TV down, also make it end right and not just cut off. Overall, the video serves its purpose and I️ see no reason to trash it, but trolls will be trolls.
Most of the epoxy surely got pushed out of the hole though, so it isn't really epoxied in place all that much.
I was comparing this 6:26 video to the other guy's 1:23 video and I preferred the latter because it's more straightforward, undemanding or effortless while the former is making easy things very complicated. IOW, the 5:03 difference is really unnecessary for making a threaded insert video. Just my .02cents
why din't you set up before shooting? would make you video more efficient (reffering to epoxy mixing)
And turn down the noise in the background
Size of the hole in regard to the size of the insert?... Why people almost never think about mentioning that - oh so crutial - detail?
The notches in the insert go up. They should be installed using a threaded insert installation tool. See part # 94110A120 @ McMaster.com to see an example.
why wouldn't you use loctite , a lot cleaner and faster.
Really was no mess. Plus this is just what I had.
Use two nuts on the bolt
Would you get rid of this video from the pure youtube.com?
I think the slot goes down and the slot acts like a cutter to cut the threads, so I've watch several of these videos and only saw yours and two others so far that did it the right way with the slot goes in first. Makes sense.
what is epoxy?
Ha ha! No - sensible DIY'ers are not like you .. they get the job done right with the correct tools ~ like the E-Z LOK driver bit.
Check ua-cam.com/video/knlcEbupJLI/v-deo.html @25 secs and you'll see why the manufacturers have designed a slot into the threaded inserts, not only for fitting but also for removal if necessary.
Why don't you "go ahead" and not finish the bloody video
David Terry there's a community of wood workers that aren't traditionally trained that use this platform to learn and get ideas. We're offering ways to learn from each other good or bad, but we learn through constructive criticism. You have provided nothing of use: so "go ahead" and piss off wanker!!!
Your doing it all wrong
nice video thanks for explaining it however you couldve edited out the 150 seconds of you mixing epoxy off camera what a waste of my life
Spoiler Alert!
This video shows you how NOT to do it!
Tony, be careful in that glass house of yours...
@Aaron Neville nop, he's right: 1. it's not straight (go look for a jig or a drill press), 2. the nut has those channels for a specific key to use and not because it will shrink inside the wood (that's just wrong to think) so it's screwed with the wrong end. 3. epoxy? will it do any help at all since all it will be cleared when inserting?
You used threaded inserts intended for SOFT wood. You put them in BACKWARD. There is a SPECIAL BIT for driving these in that holds them securely and drives it in by the slots.
Really does not know what he is doing. First the make a tool to insert those, less tha 10.00 well worth it if you have a lot to . Slot to top No tool a bolt with double nuts will work. Cut head off and use drill press turning by hand