Looks great! I'm not going to pretend I'm some sort of master craftsman but two things I've noticed from my own projects 1. a silicone spatula does a great job at spreading glue, I find rubber gloves get pretty tacky with it 2. I'd watch the table top for splitting. The wood will expand and contract with temperature changes - screwing it down doesn't give it that room to move, but there are a lot of table top fasteners that could do the job. My go to is a z clip but if you search for table top fasteners I'm sure you'll find a ton.
Nice! I've been searching for a design that would look good in my dining room. I think this, after substituting the plywood top with glue up panels, would be great.
Love the table. You could save a lot of time using a well used dining table off of craigslist or fb as a donor for the legs. Wouldn't really save any money but wouldn't cost much either.
Great job! I love using the leaf blower to get the dust away and the occasional chicken walking buy. I was wondering how tough it was to set up/move. It sounded like the top was glued/screwed down and I saw the stretcher glued into the legs as well. I don't suppose it needs to move many times, though, so that helps.
Nice table mate. My only change would have been going with a nicer piece of plywood for the top. Probably a piece of A-Grade Oak to better match the grain of your hardwood.
Yea, That would have been better, but I built this before I discovered that I could buy better wood from a hard wood lumber store. So.. this cost alot more than it should have.
What a great video! and a great Table. What was the length of the legs for the table base? or what was the finished height of your legs? looking back anything you'd do differently? maybe make another looking back video?
Question: How do you compensate for humidity expansion of the leaves? I built a similar table a while back with a frame made of t-slot extrusions. I even did the leaves the same way, constrained between the armrests to form a nice flat table top. The one problem I've had with it is that the leaves expand about 1/2" along the length of the table during summer, jamming the leaves in place. So far the only way I've been able to solve it is by loosening the t-slotted frame to adjust the distance between the armrests. Great table and great build video! Enjoy your games!
I used red oak for aprons, hand rails and inner rails. 2x6 pine boards for the base, and plywood for game well bottom and table top. If you can buy the red oak at a hard wood lumber store, it will save you quite a bit of money.
@plumbob72 thanks! Did you use a frame for the well under the plywood? Or was the plywood and shape of the table enough to keep the middle from sagging?
I have been watching gaming table builds on youtube in preparation to make my own. This was the best. You combined practical carpentry and still had a good level of finish. I think the T track is a good solution to be able to add accessories. You mentioned on the video that that you wished for greater depth. What would you suggest for this? Thanks.
Nice job. You mentioned in the video that you wish you made the vault a little deeper. How deep did you go and if you could change it, what depth would you make the vault? I play a lot of Zombicide as well. Great game! Thanks.
Great job! I like your t track idea a lot. How has that held up? I'm making my own table out of pine soon and curious if Pine can take those forces well in a t track configuration
Well.. the accessories are pine, the track part is inset into oak. That being said.. I have never once thought that any part of it would break. I think pine will work for both components.
DCT Tee Bolt Set - 20 Pack 1-3/4in T Bolts for Woodworking, T Track Bolts Jig Bolts, 1/4in 20 Thread T Bolt I couldn't post the link, but if you type This into Amazon you will see them
@@plumbob72 that doesn’t seem quite right. Each armrest cant be only 1” wide…. A 40 inch well added to the width of two armrests should be 46”-47” wide, with same math for the long dimension
@@kevinsherrodd6107 yea, I wasn't thinking when I replied, im not at home to measure, but I think each arm rest was 3 inches wide. Total width 46. Width seems pretty good, maybe a tad too wide for some games, but I would probably keep it the same to accommodate my larger games. Thanks for the observation. 🙂
At the 2:26 mark you said..."No matter how hard I tried when lining them up and using clamps, there was still a slight gap. And so I'm filling the gap with wood glue." Would you like to know WHY there was a slight gap?!? It's because you never flattened the boards with a jointer! All you did was cut off the ends of the 2x6's thinking you were squaring up the boards. The boards couldn't possibly be square without that initial flat reference side that comes from jointing!! Overall not a bad little project! At least now you know moving forward what you need to flatten those boards for future projects.
The problem is you're comparing this channel to those huge UA-cam channels with an entire warehouse full of CnC machines, laser engravers and every possible tool you can imagine. Most people are lucky to have even a circular saw let alone a jointer, mitre saw, table saw, router, etc... He even mentions he had to borrow one of the tools used. The other guides might be more entertaining, but this guide is far more practical for the average person to follow.
I've watched a lot of videos about DIY gaming tables lately, this is the best one by a long shot. Great job, I am absolutely copying you now.
As some one who owns a wyrmwood gaming table and enjoys dabbling in woodworking myself, you did a fantastic job!
It truly looks great!
What a fantastic job. I think I will go with a similar trestle design for my own gaming / puzzle table version.
Yes. The tresstle design is so good because you can fit more people around the table. I have had 10 people around it.
yourr table is about the size i want, i hate my games not fitting. great job.
When I built it, I thought it might be too big, but it has turned out to be the perfect size.
would you mind doing a video like "1 year playing on my custom table" would be pretty interesting.@@plumbob72
Best DIY gaming table I've seen on UA-cam
Great project. Thank you.
looks great
Makes me want to make my own! A good first or second project for my new sawstop
Looks great! I'm not going to pretend I'm some sort of master craftsman but two things I've noticed from my own projects
1. a silicone spatula does a great job at spreading glue, I find rubber gloves get pretty tacky with it
2. I'd watch the table top for splitting. The wood will expand and contract with temperature changes - screwing it down doesn't give it that room to move, but there are a lot of table top fasteners that could do the job. My go to is a z clip but if you search for table top fasteners I'm sure you'll find a ton.
That's cool. I'm definitely learning a lot as I go.
Great video thank you
Cool table!
Nice! I've been searching for a design that would look good in my dining room. I think this, after substituting the plywood top with glue up panels, would be great.
Interestingly enough, I also ditched the plywood top and did an oak table top glue up. It looks much better.
Love the table. You could save a lot of time using a well used dining table off of craigslist or fb as a donor for the legs. Wouldn't really save any money but wouldn't cost much either.
That is a good idea.
I liked that chicken.
Great table!
Great job! I love using the leaf blower to get the dust away and the occasional chicken walking buy. I was wondering how tough it was to set up/move. It sounded like the top was glued/screwed down and I saw the stretcher glued into the legs as well. I don't suppose it needs to move many times, though, so that helps.
I put felt furniture pads under it and it slides easily.
cool table!!
Nice table mate. My only change would have been going with a nicer piece of plywood for the top. Probably a piece of A-Grade Oak to better match the grain of your hardwood.
Yea, That would have been better, but I built this before I discovered that I could buy better wood from a hard wood lumber store. So.. this cost alot more than it should have.
What a great video! and a great Table. What was the length of the legs for the table base? or what was the finished height of your legs? looking back anything you'd do differently? maybe make another looking back video?
Question: How do you compensate for humidity expansion of the leaves?
I built a similar table a while back with a frame made of t-slot extrusions. I even did the leaves the same way, constrained between the armrests to form a nice flat table top. The one problem I've had with it is that the leaves expand about 1/2" along the length of the table during summer, jamming the leaves in place. So far the only way I've been able to solve it is by loosening the t-slotted frame to adjust the distance between the armrests.
Great table and great build video! Enjoy your games!
Interestingly enough, I have not had any expansion or contraction problems with the wood.
I used plywood for my table top. It does not expand. Did you also use plywood?
@@plumbob72 I used plywood for the gaming surface, but hardwood cherry for the leaves. The cherry definitely expands more perpendicular to the grain.
This is an epic table! I'm looking to build one like this. Do you have plans you would be willing to share?
I did not have any plans. However I used this video when building the trestle table legs. ua-cam.com/video/Znay1xsPjWc/v-deo.html
great video! I'm going to use it as the template for my own! quick question, what kind of wood did you use? was it all pine?
I used red oak for aprons, hand rails and inner rails. 2x6 pine boards for the base, and plywood for game well bottom and table top. If you can buy the red oak at a hard wood lumber store, it will save you quite a bit of money.
@plumbob72 thanks! Did you use a frame for the well under the plywood? Or was the plywood and shape of the table enough to keep the middle from sagging?
@@Athair113 no frame needed. The plywood is 3/4 inch and very solid. Especially with the aprons and rails secured to it.
If during your build you have any other questions, here is my email address: plumbob72@gmail.com
@@plumbob72 wow! I appreciate it!
I have been watching gaming table builds on youtube in preparation to make my own. This was the best. You combined practical carpentry and still had a good level of finish. I think the T track is a good solution to be able to add accessories. You mentioned on the video that that you wished for greater depth. What would you suggest for this? Thanks.
It really needed to be 2 1/4 inches deep. This will accommodate most miniatures.
Looks fantastic. Do you happen to have drawings for your design available for purchase?
I did not have any plans drawn up. Sorry.
Do you have a material list? How many and what size 2x6 and 4x4 did you have to purchase?
Nice job. You mentioned in the video that you wish you made the vault a little deeper. How deep did you go and if you could change it, what depth would you make the vault? I play a lot of Zombicide as well. Great game! Thanks.
The well is 2 inches deep. I wished I went 2.5.
@@plumbob72 Good to know. Thanks
Great job! I like your t track idea a lot. How has that held up? I'm making my own table out of pine soon and curious if Pine can take those forces well in a t track configuration
Well.. the accessories are pine, the track part is inset into oak. That being said.. I have never once thought that any part of it would break. I think pine will work for both components.
I went ahead with pine on pine and it’s very sturdy! Thanks for the response!
A wood conditioner would have helped with the blotches
How deep is the well on your table? What size boards did you use to frame the top?
The gaming well is 2 inches deep. I wished I had gone 2.5 deep. The boards that form the armrest are 2 inches.
@@plumbob72 Wow thanks for the quick reply! I think I’m gonna try to make one similar to this!!
What is it that you are using to fix the accessories into the T slot?
DCT Tee Bolt Set - 20 Pack 1-3/4in T Bolts for Woodworking, T Track Bolts Jig Bolts, 1/4in 20 Thread T Bolt
I couldn't post the link, but if you type
This into Amazon you will see them
@@plumbob72 Sweet! How did you sink them into the accessories? Is there a drill bit for these?
@@gredge It's called a key hole router bit.
@@plumbob72 Thanks so much! But sorry I wasn't clear -- how do you get the bolts into the accessories themselves? They aren't screws right?
@gredge sorry, just saw this. They do have screw threads, I drilled a pilot hole and just screwed them in.
How long is the table and how long is the span between the trestles?
Total length is 7 ft.
51 inches is the span.
It is not considered safe to use a fence and a miter gauge at the same time.
Yea. I was just starting out at the time. I did not know very much about safety.
What are the dimensions? Thinking of doing something similar.
The dimension of the well are 40x80 inches. Total table dimensions are 42x82.
@@plumbob72 that doesn’t seem quite right. Each armrest cant be only 1” wide…. A 40 inch well added to the width of two armrests should be 46”-47” wide, with same math for the long dimension
@@kevinsherrodd6107 yea, I wasn't thinking when I replied, im not at home to measure, but I think each arm rest was 3 inches wide. Total width 46. Width seems pretty good, maybe a tad too wide for some games, but I would probably keep it the same to accommodate my larger games. Thanks for the observation. 🙂
At the 2:26 mark you said..."No matter how hard I tried when lining them up and using clamps, there was still a slight gap. And so I'm filling the gap with wood glue."
Would you like to know WHY there was a slight gap?!? It's because you never flattened the boards with a jointer! All you did was cut off the ends of the 2x6's thinking you were squaring up the boards. The boards couldn't possibly be square without that initial flat reference side that comes from jointing!!
Overall not a bad little project! At least now you know moving forward what you need to flatten those boards for future projects.
Great point although a jointer is usually outside of diy territory and filler is a passable albeit hacky solution I think.
The problem is you're comparing this channel to those huge UA-cam channels with an entire warehouse full of CnC machines, laser engravers and every possible tool you can imagine. Most people are lucky to have even a circular saw let alone a jointer, mitre saw, table saw, router, etc... He even mentions he had to borrow one of the tools used.
The other guides might be more entertaining, but this guide is far more practical for the average person to follow.