Great video, Lui. Keep them wheels Rollin'....Greetings from Thailand. I do mine looking at the color of the plugs. If too dark, I go 1/4th in, if too lean one fourth, out. And so on. Even having Color Tune, I prefer this way.
I'm sure your mention of listening for the sweet spot set a brigade of home mechanics on one ear for their insistence of having a marker to draw to rather than a honeyed sound sensed only by frequency and pitch. I'm certain the maker has some involved procedure that will satisfy some of them better, but often a near miss is a whole lot better than a bad guess. Thanks a bunch for the rundown with your method. The plugs should tell just how very close you've gotten with a few longer rides and a plug pull for inspection. Appreciate the video.
@@lui1760 You've helped me enough. Thanks. Yamaha specs for that bike is 2 turns out of the fuel/air screw, and with your indications, one of them is just 1/2 turn out and both carburetor have the same pilot jet and both are new. Go figure. I've ordered a new kit for the carburetors with all the jets.
The only way I can get my bike to start is to have the choke on the highest setting. How should I adjust the screw so that the bike can start with minimal choke?
immisterim hey! Thanks for watching. The best thing you can do is set your pilot screws. I started my 85 with full choke all the time. No worries there. It’s an older bike. Needs a bit help.
My 700 has a hanging idle. (Drops back down to idle very slow). I have new manifold boots and spraying carb cleaner around doesn’t seem to indicate an air leak that I can find. Could a lean setting on the pilot screws cause this?
I’d recommend a sync and adjust pilot mix screw. Since you replaced boots. Once that’s done, adjust the knob to 1-1.2k Rpms. It’s an older bike so you’ll probably have to adjust the knob couple times throughout your ride. Nothing to be worried about 😃
@@lui1760 when adjusting the mixture screws, I got the highest idle when I would turn the screw nearly all the way in. Does turning the screw in cause the mixture to be leaner or richer? Just so I can diagnose my issue
@@naturesrecorder9099 you want to get your idle as low as possible before it shuts down and turn it back out right before it starts getting high. That’s the sweet spot
@@naturesrecorder9099 Turning the screw in = leaner, turning it out = richer. You can turn it all the way in (do not force it in, apply normal finger pressure) and then two complete turns out.
leroy 7.79s Choke raises idle by default. Often times up to 3k. If it goes as high as 5k the idle might be set a bit too high to begin with as the extra fuel added by the choke gets some extra air so the RPMs go up higher. However, it is crucial for the person to understand: choke is NOT an on or off switch, you can go halfway or quarter. Start the engine with full choke and gently start taking it off. Wherever you get a 2k idle, leave it there for a minute or two.
I also have two questions.. but when I want to put it in 1st or 3rd gear, the engine dies and why does it only work in a spark plug with a good spark plug and good current?? Mulțumesc..
Might have to check your idle knob. Make sure it stays around 1,000-1,200 RPMs at all times. You may have to adjust all the time because it’s an older bike. Make sure to check air/fuel ratio as well by the carbs.
Love the vidios I have a varago 535 mint condition serviced new coils air filter plugs clend carbs all done grate starter but front solender is colder then the back one it's 95 with 16 thousand mls up on it no back firing can you help pls thanks Joe here
Very informative video! Is it better to have the spark plug out and still connected to the spark plug cap, rather then just removing the cap but keeping the plug in?
Hello Lui, after cleaning the carburettors like in your video, I started my XV70 but I have one problem, The rear cylinder only works if I rev up to around 1500-2000 rpm. as if he was not getting fuel at idle. The front cylinder is ok and can work alone at idle speed, what do you think it is a matter of synchornization or pilot mixture screws?
Haha that’s the same way I felt man.. I provided some videos on here that helped me. I got it all as a message and I turned it into a video for people like me. When I was stuck. Lol got a couple vids of the bike too!
That is very true. I apologize for having terrible angles. I will better that next time! You see the carbs? Right next to the bowl you'll see a little "pole" sticking out. Inside there theres a screw. Mine is a flat head. Could be Phillip's in SOME cases.. try adjusting that till you find the sweet spot. Sweet spot = right before you lose RPMs and gain RPMs. That's the sweet spot. You can barely tell on the video I think. If you hear closely, as I "close" it, it wants to shut off. When I "open" it, it gains RPMs. You dont want too much RPMs.
So what I did, I turned it down as low as it goes before it shuts off. After that, I "open" it until i hear it gains RPMs you'll hear a steady idle. You'll have to "open" slowly so you wont open too much. You can try it a couple times so you can hear it. **IF** you have aftermarket pipes, you may need a dynojet jet kit level 1.
Hello Lui. Can this be done on a virago 1100? I know there is a capped jet( air/ fuel mix?) on the top of the carbs just off the Diaphragm covers. Not too sure if this is adjustable though.....
@@lui1760 cool. i just found a few articles on Viragohelp.com that deals with exactly what my problem is; after market pipes and pilot circuit adjustment. Thanks for you help and i quite like you videos; helpful and funny too occasionally. Here are the links; www.viragohelp.com/virago-aftermarket-pipes/ www.viragohelp.com/virago-mikuni-carburetors/
Hello, I've just recently disassembled my carbs and had it running for a solid 10 minutes and then the next day I started it and it was only running off the rear cylinder, like I could grab the pipe in the front, any knowledge you could throw my way?
Hey! Have you updated some of the components? Coils, wires, plugs? Also the tci? These bikes are pretty old and they might start having some wear and tear. Sounds like a spark issue.
Long shot for a reply but I recently did a carb rebuild of my own and I also did the left pod delete from one of your videos. I put everything together and the bike idles really high. I tried using this video to adjust the carbs but moving the mixture screw doesn’t do anything. Any idea where to start?
Hey! You can start by checking out the idle ‘knob’ I believe it’s on the right side of the carbs. Literally looks like a little knob. You’ll be able to see the difference when you “open” or “close” it
Are you referring to the knob with the spring seen on your video? If so, this knob doesn’t do anything either. I backed out the knob to where it doesn’t make any contact with the bracket that pulls the throttle cable. I did see your other videos as well regarding the carb rebuild and you adjusted the floaters. I did not do this, would that maybe cause such a big idle?
@@AlbertoMartinez-wu4ly might have to sync carbs. Or you left one of the carb “nipples” open. Gotta cap them all. Here’s a group on Facebook that has very knowledgeable people. I’m also in that group if you’d like to post videos/pictures. facebook.com/groups/3345910372093433/?ref=share
This usually means air is getting into the cylinder via a hole between the carb and cylinder. Check those rubber boots for cracks, and make sure all the vacuum lines are correct and sealed.
Trent Murkins choke was actually off. And turn it on like normal. Warm up the bike first. Then do like the video. You might have to raise the idle knob so it stays on
Good question! I forgot to mention that on the video. I had to adjust the KNOB (right hand side) and put more RPMs. If that carb isn't getting enough flow, it's just how you get it to run solo.
lui ochoa so I turned my idle screw up and I still can’t get the bike to start on the 2nd cylinder. I turn the choke on and it starts for about 2 seconds then dies.
I’m going to try this out. But when my xv1000 is warming up on choke, it spews fuel out exhaust. Once warm and choke is off runs great. (Backfires getting bit more frequent tho) Any idea? Thanks for the straight forward video.
Yes! That’s how I like to keep my videos. Straight forward. And your floats may need adjustment. (Carbs) id fix that ASAP before the bike leaves you stranded. 😃 happened to me. Haha
@@Mumbles-iz7tl I know a guy that’s my carb guy. BUT his prices are up there. He bench syncs and all. You’ll just have to tune perfectly after install yourself. He refurbishes all. ...I do have videos on my channel too if you want to try yourself. Huge tip. Remember to take pictures and remember which parts come from each carb. They’re different sizes.
Anthony Giacchina to be honest, I’m not 100% sure. But if you like, you can try 1 1/2 turns out or 2 turns out. Keep checking your plugs every 100 miles and turn a 16th of a turn every time to get your plugs right.
I actually didnt worry about the color. Mine was a nice blue-ish color. Strong. What color is your spark? Just gotta find the sweet spot. Which is right before you gain RPMs.
Ahhh!! Yes!! Once you do this process, you run it for couple days. Check again and you're looking for a nice tan-ish color. If they're too black, you're rich. Too brown/dry it's lean. If they're black and wet, you got a carb issue.
@@Kartoon3thirteen I’m sure you have Facebook, join this group! Great people AND you can post videos/pictures facebook.com/groups/3345910372093433/?ref=sharefacebook.com/groups/3345910372093433/?ref=share&exp=9594
Great video, Lui. Keep them wheels Rollin'....Greetings from Thailand. I do mine looking at the color of the plugs. If too dark, I go 1/4th in, if too lean one fourth, out. And so on. Even having Color Tune, I prefer this way.
I'm sure your mention of listening for the sweet spot set a brigade of home mechanics on one ear for their insistence of having a marker to draw to rather than a honeyed sound sensed only by frequency and pitch. I'm certain the maker has some involved procedure that will satisfy some of them better, but often a near miss is a whole lot better than a bad guess. Thanks a bunch for the rundown with your method. The plugs should tell just how very close you've gotten with a few longer rides and a plug pull for inspection. Appreciate the video.
Dude knows his stuff helped me out with mine
I succeeded. Thank you. My Yamaha virago xv 1100 engine runs much better.
Good deal! 😎
Video of the reason for cutting off the electricity to the spark plug of a Yamaha Virago 535 motorcycle
Very good video Lui. I've done those steps in my XTZ 750 Super Tenere and found out that the carb less suspicious was the one with problems.
Manuel Bernardo thank you!! Yea, it’s usually like that. I hope I can help more !
@@lui1760 You've helped me enough. Thanks. Yamaha specs for that bike is 2 turns out of the fuel/air screw, and with your indications, one of them is just 1/2 turn out and both carburetor have the same pilot jet and both are new. Go figure. I've ordered a new kit for the carburetors with all the jets.
Manuel Bernardo gotta love it! 😂
@@lui1760 Indeed, no doubt.
Also trying to tune my xtz750 😂
You have a great camera
A very big help! Thank you buddy!!!
Here to help!
Great video
The only way I can get my bike to start is to have the choke on the highest setting. How should I adjust the screw so that the bike can start with minimal choke?
immisterim hey! Thanks for watching. The best thing you can do is set your pilot screws. I started my 85 with full choke all the time. No worries there. It’s an older bike. Needs a bit help.
My 700 has a hanging idle. (Drops back down to idle very slow). I have new manifold boots and spraying carb cleaner around doesn’t seem to indicate an air leak that I can find. Could a lean setting on the pilot screws cause this?
I’d recommend a sync and adjust pilot mix screw. Since you replaced boots. Once that’s done, adjust the knob to 1-1.2k Rpms. It’s an older bike so you’ll probably have to adjust the knob couple times throughout your ride. Nothing to be worried about 😃
@@lui1760 when adjusting the mixture screws, I got the highest idle when I would turn the screw nearly all the way in. Does turning the screw in cause the mixture to be leaner or richer? Just so I can diagnose my issue
@@naturesrecorder9099 that is correct!
@@naturesrecorder9099 you want to get your idle as low as possible before it shuts down and turn it back out right before it starts getting high. That’s the sweet spot
@@naturesrecorder9099 Turning the screw in = leaner, turning it out = richer. You can turn it all the way in (do not force it in, apply normal finger pressure) and then two complete turns out.
I have a 1995 virago 750 warming it up with choke on it randomly idles up to 5k and stays there but doesent when choke is off
leroy 7.79s Choke raises idle by default. Often times up to 3k.
If it goes as high as 5k the idle might be set a bit too high to begin with as the extra fuel added by the choke gets some extra air so the RPMs go up higher.
However, it is crucial for the person to understand: choke is NOT an on or off switch, you can go halfway or quarter. Start the engine with full choke and gently start taking it off. Wherever you get a 2k idle, leave it there for a minute or two.
Also, check your hoses. Coming in and out of carbs. They can be old and you can have a leak.
@@lui1760 thanks
I also have two questions..
but when I want to put it in 1st or 3rd gear, the engine dies and why does it only work in a spark plug with a good spark plug and good current?? Mulțumesc..
Might have to check your idle knob. Make sure it stays around 1,000-1,200 RPMs at all times. You may have to adjust all the time because it’s an older bike. Make sure to check air/fuel ratio as well by the carbs.
My plugs keep burning hot and black , cause back fire and fouling out, would thus cure it
Yes. If you continue to have issues, try to sync carbs too and do these steps again
Wait you unplug the spark plug on the same side as the screw you adjust?
Correct
@@lui1760 How does it run without spark?
It runs on the other cylinder. The carburetor on the "driver side" fuels the rear cylinder, the carb on the "passenger side" fuels the front cylinder.
Love the vidios I have a varago 535 mint condition serviced new coils air filter plugs clend carbs all done grate starter but front solender is colder then the back one it's 95 with 16 thousand mls up on it no back firing can you help pls thanks Joe here
Very informative video! Is it better to have the spark plug out and still connected to the spark plug cap, rather then just removing the cap but keeping the plug in?
You want the spark plug out and grounded to the engine with the plug wire connected to the spark plug so you don't fry your coil.
How did you not burn your hand? Mine is so hot I can't touch the cylinder vents.
Try doing it when the bike hasn’t been on in a while. That’s the best time
Wear gloves ! :)
Wheres the main jet adjustment screw ?
You can’t adjust the main jet, only the pilot jet.
Hello
Lui, after cleaning the carburettors like in your video, I started my XV70 but I have one problem, The rear cylinder only works if I rev up to around 1500-2000 rpm. as if he was not getting fuel at idle. The front cylinder is ok and can work alone at idle speed, what do you think it is a matter of synchornization or pilot mixture screws?
If you can, do both that way your bike is at 100% sync should take care of that problem.
My rear cylinder refuses to idle by itself.. what did you do when you cut your video?
Hey! Yea, I forgot to add that part. I ended up idling it higher with the knob.. that’s how it stayed idling
Thanks!! I'll do that!
wish we could be friends, lol have the same bike but no garage and no knowledge.
Haha that’s the same way I felt man.. I provided some videos on here that helped me. I got it all as a message and I turned it into a video for people like me. When I was stuck. Lol got a couple vids of the bike too!
I don’t understand what screw you are talking about... you point to it but your hand is in the way. And what sweet spot?
That is very true. I apologize for having terrible angles. I will better that next time!
You see the carbs? Right next to the bowl you'll see a little "pole" sticking out. Inside there theres a screw. Mine is a flat head. Could be Phillip's in SOME cases.. try adjusting that till you find the sweet spot. Sweet spot = right before you lose RPMs and gain RPMs. That's the sweet spot. You can barely tell on the video I think. If you hear closely, as I "close" it, it wants to shut off. When I "open" it, it gains RPMs. You dont want too much RPMs.
Alrighty I’ll try that out. So you want it to be the lowest before dropping rpms or highest without raising them?
So what I did, I turned it down as low as it goes before it shuts off. After that, I "open" it until i hear it gains RPMs you'll hear a steady idle. You'll have to "open" slowly so you wont open too much. You can try it a couple times so you can hear it.
**IF** you have aftermarket pipes, you may need a dynojet jet kit level 1.
Hello Lui. Can this be done on a virago 1100? I know there is a capped jet( air/ fuel mix?) on the top of the carbs just off the Diaphragm covers. Not too sure if this is adjustable though.....
patrick post by any chance, do you know if you have MUKINI or HITACHI carbs?
@@lui1760 , i believe they are Mukini.
patrick post if mukini, the pilot screw should be by the diaphragm heathers. This could be done regardless.
@@lui1760 cool. i just found a few articles on Viragohelp.com that deals with exactly what my problem is; after market pipes and pilot circuit adjustment. Thanks for you help and i quite like you videos; helpful and funny too occasionally. Here are the links; www.viragohelp.com/virago-aftermarket-pipes/
www.viragohelp.com/virago-mikuni-carburetors/
patrick post facebook.com/groups/ViragoNation/?ref=share. Here’s another good link!! If you like to join! (: thanks for that link
Hello, I've just recently disassembled my carbs and had it running for a solid 10 minutes and then the next day I started it and it was only running off the rear cylinder, like I could grab the pipe in the front, any knowledge you could throw my way?
Hey! Have you updated some of the components? Coils, wires, plugs? Also the tci? These bikes are pretty old and they might start having some wear and tear. Sounds like a spark issue.
Long shot for a reply but I recently did a carb rebuild of my own and I also did the left pod delete from one of your videos. I put everything together and the bike idles really high. I tried using this video to adjust the carbs but moving the mixture screw doesn’t do anything. Any idea where to start?
Hey! You can start by checking out the idle ‘knob’ I believe it’s on the right side of the carbs. Literally looks like a little knob. You’ll be able to see the difference when you “open” or “close” it
Are you referring to the knob with the spring seen on your video? If so, this knob doesn’t do anything either. I backed out the knob to where it doesn’t make any contact with the bracket that pulls the throttle cable. I did see your other videos as well regarding the carb rebuild and you adjusted the floaters. I did not do this, would that maybe cause such a big idle?
@@AlbertoMartinez-wu4ly might have to sync carbs. Or you left one of the carb “nipples” open. Gotta cap them all. Here’s a group on Facebook that has very knowledgeable people. I’m also in that group if you’d like to post videos/pictures.
facebook.com/groups/3345910372093433/?ref=share
This usually means air is getting into the cylinder via a hole between the carb and cylinder. Check those rubber boots for cracks, and make sure all the vacuum lines are correct and sealed.
How did you get it to run with one cylinder and how what was your choke at? I want to know so I don’t mess mine up
Trent Murkins choke was actually off. And turn it on like normal. Warm up the bike first. Then do like the video. You might have to raise the idle knob so it stays on
Thanks for posting. How did you keep it running on just the 2nd cylinder when it stalled at first? Was it just a bit flooded?
Good question! I forgot to mention that on the video. I had to adjust the KNOB (right hand side) and put more RPMs. If that carb isn't getting enough flow, it's just how you get it to run solo.
I will add to the video tonight. What I did.
lui ochoa so I turned my idle screw up and I still can’t get the bike to start on the 2nd cylinder. I turn the choke on and it starts for about 2 seconds then dies.
Using your tachometer reading while adjusting would of been more helpful than trying to just listen to the engines rpm.
The tachometer doesn’t show idle
I’m going to try this out. But when my xv1000 is warming up on choke, it spews fuel out exhaust. Once warm and choke is off runs great. (Backfires getting bit more frequent tho) Any idea? Thanks for the straight forward video.
Yes! That’s how I like to keep my videos. Straight forward. And your floats may need adjustment. (Carbs) id fix that ASAP before the bike leaves you stranded. 😃 happened to me. Haha
@@lui1760 I’ve had 2 different people work on my carbs. Guess if you want it done right....... I’ve always been nervous to work on the carbs.
@@Mumbles-iz7tl I know a guy that’s my carb guy. BUT his prices are up there. He bench syncs and all. You’ll just have to tune perfectly after install yourself. He refurbishes all. ...I do have videos on my channel too if you want to try yourself. Huge tip. Remember to take pictures and remember which parts come from each carb. They’re different sizes.
@@lui1760 Can you make a video on how to adjust floats? (: Would be awesome!
@@Captain-Flindt I wish! I should’ve thought of that. 😓 I had to sell my bike due to family emergency. Wife needs surgery.
Will the 1100 be the same
Yes!
What is your plug gap set at for your
Virago 700
Anthony Giacchina .28-.30
@@lui1760 do u know how many turn your pilot screws are set at roughly
Anthony Giacchina to be honest, I’m not 100% sure. But if you like, you can try 1 1/2 turns out or 2 turns out. Keep checking your plugs every 100 miles and turn a 16th of a turn every time to get your plugs right.
I see some sparks there man be careful
Hey Lui do you investigate status of the spark color and repeat the process until you get a good mixture ?
I actually didnt worry about the color. Mine was a nice blue-ish color. Strong. What color is your spark?
Just gotta find the sweet spot. Which is right before you gain RPMs.
@@lui1760 No no i meant the combustion residue on the spark not the arc colour. That helps to determine if you are on the rich or lean side
Ahhh!! Yes!! Once you do this process, you run it for couple days. Check again and you're looking for a nice tan-ish color. If they're too black, you're rich. Too brown/dry it's lean. If they're black and wet, you got a carb issue.
Mine were tan-ish. Right on the money
Either rich or lean, move pilot screw a 1/16 of a turn
My bike back firing
how did you get your motor to look so nice?
Art Craven garage kept all its life! Also engine degreaser from auto zone
So I have to start and run my bike with full choke, how would I adjust to that?
Have you tried adjusting your idle KNOB? Right side of carbs
You can raise it up if it doesnt stay on
Choke allows extra fuel to go through carbs. You need more fuel through you mixture screws
I can only see one Spark plug on my 83 750
Try following the coil wire. See if there’s no loose connection. Or a bad spark boot/wire. Maybe a bad coil too.
Well my carb doesn't look like this. I must have a different style or something. This is a good video though. I wish I could figure mine out
@@Kartoon3thirteen I’m sure you have Facebook, join this group! Great people AND you can post videos/pictures
facebook.com/groups/3345910372093433/?ref=sharefacebook.com/groups/3345910372093433/?ref=share&exp=9594