Thanks for this my man I'm going to do it, I have about four rolls of color that been sitting around need to develop. Your images seem to have a bluish tint to it that may be because it expired I'm curious what a fresh color roll would look like.
just used fresh Kodacolor in my first bleach bypass, quite decent images, just a little yellowish on some spots, but temperature control is not my strong point.
Hey man, awesome video. I like your simple explanation. A very enjoyable video with captivating details on your process and results. Keep up the good work, Stud!
Dave this is incredible. My chemicals are old, but I will try this. Thank you. I want more of this kind of tip/tutorials from you. Respect. Ps. Is incredible how the yellow is still there.
@@theoldcameraguy Just found your channel. Very nice!!! I have a labbx and df96 kit I still need to dive into, but I thing the color and e6 version may follow. Keep up the good work. I like how you explain things, and your content!
Chris Storey Thanks! I’ve never developed E6, but I enjoy developing C-41 at home. I really like the fact that all C-41 stocks have the same developing time. Df96 Monobath is a very convenient BW option too.
Bleach bypass is also a fine way to get more speed out of C-41 black and white films like the discontinued Kodak stocks and Ilford XP-2 Super. As with your experience, you usually need to treat the film as if it's about a stop faster than box speed (not a bad problem to have, usually). BTW, it would be preferred to use a C-41 Final Rinse (supplied with the Cinestill liquid C-41 kit, but not with the powder version) rather than Photo-Flo -- it has some other ingredients that preserve the emulsion (or so I'm told by genuine experts).
@@theoldcameraguy Modern emulsions need no stabilizer. As Cinestill says, it's baked into the emulsion since the late '90s. They do last better with the fungicide and bacteria inhibitors that are in C-41 Final Rinse and aren't in Photo-Flo. Ight not make a difference in a reasonable storage conditions, but it might in heat or humidity.
Thanks for this. I was here mainly for a history lesson. I shoot digitally, and my favorite software - Nik - has a bleach bypass filter. I wanted to know where it came from and what its use history looked like. Your down-to-earth introduction is much appreciated.
Great job! Your images looked alot like mine before I color corrected them. I find that the color balance is heavily biased torwards blue, and you need to scan them very warm. Since my scanner did not scan them I had to use my digital camera and I shot it in raw so I could change the warmness after the scan. I was consistently about at 2500k, or very warm. I was going to include the scanning portion in more detail but I thought it was too boring for most veiwers lol.
Gavin Lyons Thanks - It was a fun process. Speaking of fun processes, I’ve got a shoutout for you in my next film soup video which is scheduled to go public on September 6th. (Saw you in Jamie Maldonado’s latest video too - very cool!)
this would be convenient with expired C41 found film, right? Because the dye couplers could be deteriorated and once you bleach, you destroy the whole image. But with this is safer to retain the image, and SOME of the colour, right?
@@theoldcameraguy many thanks. But what do you mean with old C-41 developer? Expired? I've been using a Tetenal C41 kit but soon would be expired and (they say) old, at more than 1 month since mixing the concentrates. Could I continue to use only the "exhausted" C-41 developer with Ilford fixer to do this bleach bypass with expired colour negatives?
Well, did some small trial with a 35mm Kodacolor strip, and it looks quite well: C41 developer for 4 minutes, rinse, Ilford Rapid Fixer for 6 minutes and final wash. A little yellowish but maybe I didn't control too much temperature in the developer.
Great image quality🙌
Thanks!
Thanks for this my man I'm going to do it, I have about four rolls of color that been sitting around need to develop. Your images seem to have a bluish tint to it that may be because it expired I'm curious what a fresh color roll would look like.
Yes - I’m looking forward to seeing your results with some fresher film.
just used fresh Kodacolor in my first bleach bypass, quite decent images, just a little yellowish on some spots, but temperature control is not my strong point.
@@carbo73 me neither my man. I did a video how to develop at room temp that you might benefit from.
Hey man, awesome video. I like your simple explanation. A very enjoyable video with captivating details on your process and results. Keep up the good work, Stud!
I agree 100%
Thanks man!
Love the grungy look, I always wondered how this is done. Thanks for sharing, I might have to try it!
Grungy - that is the perfect word for this! I’d definitely like to see what you get with this.
Dave this is incredible. My chemicals are old, but I will try this. Thank you. I want more of this kind of tip/tutorials from you. Respect. Ps. Is incredible how the yellow is still there.
Thanks Andy - it was a fun experiment. You should definitely try this out - Have fun with it!
I like this look!!!!!!!
Thanks - It was a fun experiment.
@@theoldcameraguy Just found your channel. Very nice!!! I have a labbx and df96 kit I still need to dive into, but I thing the color and e6 version may follow. Keep up the good work. I like how you explain things, and your content!
Chris Storey Thanks! I’ve never developed E6, but I enjoy developing C-41 at home. I really like the fact that all C-41 stocks have the same developing time. Df96 Monobath is a very convenient BW option too.
It’s a great old process we used to do occasionally and now Fuji XT4 has it built in as a film emulation.
Great idea for an emulation - very cool!
Bleach bypass is also a fine way to get more speed out of C-41 black and white films like the discontinued Kodak stocks and Ilford XP-2 Super. As with your experience, you usually need to treat the film as if it's about a stop faster than box speed (not a bad problem to have, usually). BTW, it would be preferred to use a C-41 Final Rinse (supplied with the Cinestill liquid C-41 kit, but not with the powder version) rather than Photo-Flo -- it has some other ingredients that preserve the emulsion (or so I'm told by genuine experts).
Yes, I’ve heard that the stabilizer is not as critical for newer emulsions, but a good idea for older stock.
@@theoldcameraguy Modern emulsions need no stabilizer. As Cinestill says, it's baked into the emulsion since the late '90s. They do last better with the fungicide and bacteria inhibitors that are in C-41 Final Rinse and aren't in Photo-Flo. Ight not make a difference in a reasonable storage conditions, but it might in heat or humidity.
Thanks for this. I was here mainly for a history lesson. I shoot digitally, and my favorite software - Nik - has a bleach bypass filter. I wanted to know where it came from and what its use history looked like. Your down-to-earth introduction is much appreciated.
Thanks for stopping by - I appreciate it.
Awesome shots man, I really dig the sprocket holes!!
Thanks man!
Great job! Your images looked alot like mine before I color corrected them. I find that the color balance is heavily biased torwards blue, and you need to scan them very warm. Since my scanner did not scan them I had to use my digital camera and I shot it in raw so I could change the warmness after the scan. I was consistently about at 2500k, or very warm. I was going to include the scanning portion in more detail but I thought it was too boring for most veiwers lol.
Thanks - I dig the color shift I got so I just rolled with it, haha
Always been interested in doing a bleach bypass. Reminds me of lomochrome metropolis. I’ll give it a go at some point!
TheLowPredator Yes, you can get a look very similar to Lomochrome Metropolis with a less expensive film stock. Have fun trying bleach bypass!
Awesome video dude. I have always wanted to know this!
1willcobb Thanks - Glad you got something out of this video!
Thanks for the tip!
Any idea if this also applies to e6 development?
Keep up the good work!
Thanks! I have never tried E6 - it would be a more expensive experiment haha
Nice one! Got to try this out
Gavin Lyons Thanks - It was a fun process. Speaking of fun processes, I’ve got a shoutout for you in my next film soup video which is scheduled to go public on September 6th. (Saw you in Jamie Maldonado’s latest video too - very cool!)
Very interesting always got me thinking 🤔
this would be convenient with expired C41 found film, right? Because the dye couplers could be deteriorated and once you bleach, you destroy the whole image. But with this is safer to retain the image, and SOME of the colour, right?
Yes, I used old film and an old C-41 developer - Good combo for this
@@theoldcameraguy many thanks. But what do you mean with old C-41 developer? Expired? I've been using a Tetenal C41 kit but soon would be expired and (they say) old, at more than 1 month since mixing the concentrates. Could I continue to use only the "exhausted" C-41 developer with Ilford fixer to do this bleach bypass with expired colour negatives?
@@carbo73 I use my C-41 kits over several months. After I run about 21-22 rolls through a kit, then I use it for either bleach bypass or film soup.
@@theoldcameraguy I will try that with my Tetenal kit, many thanks!
Well, did some small trial with a 35mm Kodacolor strip, and it looks quite well: C41 developer for 4 minutes, rinse, Ilford Rapid Fixer for 6 minutes and final wash. A little yellowish but maybe I didn't control too much temperature in the developer.
Interesting 🤔