The hum could also be a weak fluorescent tube not flashing through very well... also try the mounting screws on the ballast, sometimes a repositioning helps. Grandma had a pair, The dryer was of the convection type and also had a light.
Nothing beats old school! I’d perfer that over anything that’s out there today . Look at that washer get down to business. No HE machine with a wash plate even comes close to that wash action
Is there a specific motor swap that you might do here? I have one of these washers, waiting on it's companion before I plan out the restoration. The original motor is beyond rebuilding as that would have been my first choice.
Thankfully, you can still buy simple, top loading washers with tall agitators such as this. We have a 10 year old GE, and it’s still working like a champ. The new front loaders are junked up with all kinds of electronics which can fail, and often do. And they tend to promote mildew growth, get smelly inside and then transfer that smell to your laundry. Plus, they’re sloooooow - 90 minutes for a ‘Quick Wash’? LOL. The top loading GE can wash a load in less than 30 minutes. We’ll stick with the simple washers; with less to go wrong, it’s likely going to last longer.
Capacitors don't hum. That is the ballast for the fluorescent light. If the ballast is as old as the washer, it probably needs replaced. The new ballasts are generally electronic.
@@Warp2090 A loud ballast need replaced. This is from the 1950's, the ballast is shot - it probably is bulged and or leaking too. Just replace it and the bulb and it will be good for years .
@@groovy1937a ballast doesn’t have anything to leak 😂 it’s literally a transformer, there is nothing that can drip out, other than if the lacquer melts. -electrical engineer
@@jhsevs You can't be an electrical engineer - because they can leak, you have no clue as what you are talking about. You need to go back to school and get an actual Bachelor of Science degree in Electrical Engineering, not a trade school course in Electronics where by people call themselves an Electrical Engineer, lol. You obviously got your education from the back of a cereal box, LOL, ROFLMAO!
Dont forget how this thing spins i like how it spins and drains at the SAME TIME . Clothes are distributed evenly to get the max water out/cover the holes
How long is this spray rinse normally? I’m asking because someone in another comment here said that the valve was stuck open and therefore was running a lot longer than it should have. On my current washing machine, the spray rinse only runs for about 25 to 30 seconds.
I don't think the solenoid valve was stuck open. I think it was doing exactly what it was designed to do. It sprays water on the clothes while spinning to push out the detergent from the clothing while spinning so that when it stops and does the rinse fill it won't have excessive amounts of detergent in the rinse water cycle.
Even with that full load that Agitator managed to get that whole load turning. Try that same load in the current crop of wash plate machines and see your result.
Back in the 1950s people did physical WORK so their clothes well made and they were DIRTY and the machines sold back then had to beat the hell out of them to get them clean. The clothes we wear today wouldnt last 6 months if they were washed in this machine. As a mechanic I can say the newer high efficiency machines dont really wash clothes worth a damn.
This is about the same as my simple top loader which is less than 10 years old when set to "Normal - High Agitation", which is what I usually use. The other modes are pretty gentle. Agree about clothes though. I have cheap 10 year old shirts still going strong and some new ones fall apart in a year. I try and find quality clothes even for some extra cost.
@dangerwrap Most weren't. If they were, the ground was tied to the metal chassis. On small power tools, double insulation started in the 30's because a power saw caused a school explosion in Texas, but don't quote me on that.
We had a Bendix "Duomatic" in 1953 and it had a separate grounding wire that was attached to the copper cold water pipe and the cord was very thick rubber ( almost as thick as a garden hose ) and a huge molded on plug. Most appliances that were grounded at that time were done in that manner, 3 wire cords were rare.
That machine is beautiful.
Look how its scrubbing the clothes , love maytags older models
Old washing machines are better.
@TerryKashat yeah the older MAYTAGs real commercial
Great post .. Great rollover too.. Nothing like the old washing machines
You got that right. There ain't nothing like the old school washers and dryers.
I LOVE turquoise Maytags!
I used to love watching the washer go through its cycles when I was a child.
me too
The hum could also be a weak fluorescent tube not flashing through very well... also try the mounting screws on the ballast, sometimes a repositioning helps. Grandma had a pair, The dryer was of the convection type and also had a light.
Nothing beats old school! I’d perfer that over anything that’s out there today . Look at that washer get down to business. No HE machine with a wash plate even comes close to that wash action
Is there a specific motor swap that you might do here? I have one of these washers, waiting on it's companion before I plan out the restoration. The original motor is beyond rebuilding as that would have been my first choice.
Thankfully, you can still buy simple, top loading washers with tall agitators such as this. We have a 10 year old GE, and it’s still working like a champ. The new front loaders are junked up with all kinds of electronics which can fail, and often do. And they tend to promote mildew growth, get smelly inside and then transfer that smell to your laundry. Plus, they’re sloooooow - 90 minutes for a ‘Quick Wash’? LOL. The top loading GE can wash a load in less than 30 minutes. We’ll stick with the simple washers; with less to go wrong, it’s likely going to last longer.
In 1959 cars and houses were also painted this color.
Capacitors don't hum. That is the ballast for the fluorescent light. If the ballast is as old as the washer, it probably needs replaced. The new ballasts are generally electronic.
The ballast doesn't need to be replaced if its humming...
@@Warp2090 A loud ballast need replaced. This is from the 1950's, the ballast is shot - it probably is bulged and or leaking too. Just replace it and the bulb and it will be good for years .
@@groovy1937 what if the ballast is loud for like a minute than gets quiet? My 1960's kitchen light is like that
@@groovy1937a ballast doesn’t have anything to leak 😂 it’s literally a transformer, there is nothing that can drip out, other than if the lacquer melts. -electrical engineer
@@jhsevs You can't be an electrical engineer - because they can leak, you have no clue as what you are talking about. You need to go back to school and get an actual Bachelor of Science degree in Electrical Engineering, not a trade school course in Electronics where by people call themselves an Electrical Engineer, lol. You obviously got your education from the back of a cereal box, LOL, ROFLMAO!
Can you do a follow up video of the repairs being done?
Now that’s what I call a spray rinse!
The water valve is stuck open. If he doesn't shut off the water it will continue to run.
Dont forget how this thing spins i like how it spins and drains at the SAME TIME . Clothes are distributed evenly to get the max water out/cover the holes
How long is this spray rinse normally? I’m asking because someone in another comment here said that the valve was stuck open and therefore was running a lot longer than it should have. On my current washing machine, the spray rinse only runs for about 25 to 30 seconds.
I don't think the solenoid valve was stuck open. I think it was doing exactly what it was designed to do. It sprays water on the clothes while spinning to push out the detergent from the clothing while spinning so that when it stops and does the rinse fill it won't have excessive amounts of detergent in the rinse water cycle.
Did the earlier Maytags have a slower normal agitation?
Even with that full load that Agitator managed to get that whole load turning. Try that same load in the current crop of wash plate machines and see your result.
Nothing with a wash plate is no match with that machine. Personally I’d rather have that old Maytag over todays garbage 🗑️
I miss the spray rinse of the old washers
Back in the 1950s people did physical WORK so their clothes well made and they were DIRTY and the machines sold back then had to beat the hell out of them to get them clean. The clothes we wear today wouldnt last 6 months if they were washed in this machine. As a mechanic I can say the newer high efficiency machines dont really wash clothes worth a damn.
This is about the same as my simple top loader which is less than 10 years old when set to "Normal - High Agitation", which is what I usually use. The other modes are pretty gentle.
Agree about clothes though. I have cheap 10 year old shirts still going strong and some new ones fall apart in a year. I try and find quality clothes even for some extra cost.
I have a question, how does the appliances to be ground in 1950? Since the grounding is Mandatory in 70's.
@dangerwrap
Most weren't. If they were, the ground was tied to the metal chassis. On small power tools, double insulation started in the 30's because a power saw caused a school explosion in Texas, but don't quote me on that.
We had a Bendix "Duomatic" in 1953 and it had a separate grounding wire that was attached to the copper cold water pipe and the cord was very thick rubber ( almost as thick as a garden hose ) and a huge molded on plug. Most appliances that were grounded at that time were done in that manner, 3 wire cords were rare.
I'd rather watch this than see Ohio State lose to Michigan again.