Thanks for the update. Waiting for mine to arrive... nice to get good info so as to avoid the beast being out of action for months due to lack of spares
I sheared off 3 of those diff screws already, all in the front diff. It seems to be the only weakness on mine. My wltoys 12428-B came with all metal gears stock, except spur. Great car! Nice vids!
@@TomleyRC Thanks for your information, And i have another question if you do not mind, can you tell me on what basis i select the appropriate transmitter, receiver & servo for the esc ?
and please i need to understand why i have to change the original receiver, transmitter and the servo if i just need to change the motor & esc ?? and sorry if I bothered you
The brushless ESC will not work with the original electronics, you need a separate receiver to plug it in to, and then you'll need a 3 wire steering servo as the original servo is 5 wire and won't fit a separate receiver.
Hello, quick question,i am also using a BL MOTOR 3650 4 poles 3900KV a 60A esc, and for the receiver a Flysky A3. I am using the original battery that came with this, but i had to change the controller.i Also bought a 2200 2 Cell lipo. i swapped now 3 controllers as i have a serious problem.Sometimes when i accelerate it does not stop.Just goes . Can you tell me what battery are you using and Controller please?
Hey man I know you are super busy with all the mad stuff you do but I have one of these and I'm trying to make it mentally fast, could you put a 5500+kv motor in? I'm currently on a 3500kv motor(waiting on my 4500kv motor to arrive) just want to see a speed test on it with high kv motor
I always say - anything on this car held together with that dreaded M2*8 screw needs to be changed, or have a spare ready - and anything linked to it!. Its a rubbish screw used all over that drive train, impossible to remove without breaking. Good luck
Love this car, it's perfect if I'm not feeling in a 'Bison' mood. haven't done any mods on mine apart from sorting out the wild amount of toe-out. Some great tips in here Tomley. Subscribed. 👍🏼 Oh, recommendations for a spare battery?
DeadlyDiddly Cheers Dude 👍🏻 Yeah it’s a pretty decent truck for the money! Even in stock form it’s good. I keep meaning to put some tie rods on to sort out the toe out....just so many other stuff on the go I haven’t got around to it yet. Thanks for the Sub mate...more to come from this 👍🏻
i think you should lock your rear diff. You`re not racing you`re just bashing, it will be more aggressive and more power to the rear end. this thing does have a slipper clutch right?
No slipper clutch on this one, locking the rear diff will make it harder to get the power down as it will just sit on it's back wheels all the time, it's bad enough as it is 😜👍
I have this transmitter laying around. Will this work if I get a new receiver that binds to the Flysky? Why is it that you need a new Tx and Rx when going brushless? FlySky FS-GT3B 2.4GHz 3-Channel Transmitter www.amazon.com/dp/B00FS2UAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2PJ8BbWYCY7WV
Loctite 603/609 green "retaining compound" "Application: Slip Fitted Parts " Its made for baring shafts to hold bearings in place it wont come un-done! Green Loctite will fix your metal diff gear.
Jon Collins Metal will last a lot longer. I keep the plastic spur so it goes first and protects the metal stuff. If you have all metal gears there is no real weak spot and it’s more expensive to replace the diffs than the spur 👍
I have the 12423 and after going to 2s lipo on the stock drive line it grenaded the rear diff. Replaced that then the next run the front diff grenaded so I ripped it the from drive shaft and pinion gear so its 2wd now.. and honestly it's more fun.. faster and does way cooler things on dirt
Of all the components that heavy nose-dive might have trashed, I´d never have guessed it´d be the motor... I´ve just come from my local RC shop - he has these very cars on display, marked up at 118 quid!
the truck isnt designed for taking jumps like that...due to the geometry and lack of a bumper. Plus a 3650 motor is on the over power side on 1/12 ....Lack of a sliper clutch dosnt help. There's only a 2845 3000 KV in my Fy03. it has plenty of power. It'll do back flip from a stand still ( on pavement) if I gun it on 3s. It'll pop wheelies on 2 s on grass. it's still fast on 2 or 3s. The Fy03 front cvd actuate in and out..to prevent bending and binding...The fy03 also has a sliper clutch...it slip a little so it wont strip on braking or hard torquing. I even mounted KT-12 wheels and tires...they're slight taller ..and 1 3/4 wide. The tires also acts like a cushion or shock absorber....( it helps) Even so,....I still wont launch it off a big ramp..it's just asking for trouble or parts to break. I like my fy03..it's still in one piece...drives great.. It's not desiign to do that,,...There;s lights on the roof rack...lmao People launching off of bmx or skatboard ramps are doing it on truggie or BUGGY PAN style designed...it's not as high...Plus the PAN SLAPPs the ground to absorb the impac ..preventing over bending of the A -arms...Plus a bumper will also help.....but it'll suck for CRAWLING. The wheels stick out further than the bumper. The 12428 or Fy03 can rock crawl and semi jumps,...short course type driving. The dogbone will bend or jam the cups into the diff....which will cuase those screw to come loose on hard landing or cart wheels ..it happens on my other 1/10 truggie R/C ( dogbone bending)... it is what it is....sometimes it'll simply just rips the dogbone from the cup... nothing breaks...you just pop it back in.... other times ..it'll shove it into the di'ff cups....i get some sort of binding noise from the diff.lol
Lmao....I know....There' s Big hill in a park where I live ( 40-50 feet high.) There;s a walkway 10 wide cuted into the side of it...around 15-20 high.. Theres a natural ramp going down hill to jump the walk way..... If I clear it...it's like a 25 feet drop...lmao. You have to stand on the bottom of the hill to watch it lunch... It killed a couple of my trucks....I had too...
No,,,the 12428 dosnt have a slipper clutch . It has a 550 motor. It has a bigger motor and faster out of the box... It's also HEAVIER....counter wiegth also added to help balance the truck.... The spyder/bevel gears are also plastic....That's why need to upgrade it if you want to install a brushless...becuase the bevel gear will strip... Not the teeth itself...but the slot the output CUP slides into. The Virhuck/Fy03....has a slippery clutch and all metal gears in the diff. It's easier to upgrade to brushless.....I can hear the slipper clutch clicking every so often...when I break or reverse....it 's enough to prevent/minimize spur gear stripping.,,It's one of maintenance you'll have to do,..inspect the slipper clutch NUT.. tighten it back up....
I don't know. Out of the box the whole drive-train wobbles. On 2S these CVDs bend like butter, already. On 3S one of mine broke. Seems to be this "pressed" powder metal? They should make them more expensive and beefier. Kinda frustrating to bend them back after almost every outing. Let's see what breaks next! For a child only running this on 2S this is the best car imo. But for a brushless system some parts need a revision. The quality of the budget 1/10th HSP cars is far better, drive-train - wise. But this "chewing gum" - plastic of Wltoys, Xinlehong and so on is almost a miracle. I showed the Wltoys to a neighbor, threw it in a very bad angle down on the concrete and he was sure something broke! Nothing broke, LOL.
They have improved these a bit now, however, this one has been running 2s Brushless with upgraded metal gears and stock CVDs with minimal issues. But for less than $100 they are pretty good out the box 👍
@@TomleyRC I have the latest version! Almost new, came some weeks ago. Maybe I was unlucky with that CVD. Time will tell. Yes, you can't really complain. This truck sells 55 Euros in Germany. Means if you live in Germany you have free shipping. That's crazy. I'd buy two at once to have one as a spare (live in Cyprus unfortunately, always horrendous shipping costs!)
@@TomleyRC On Ebay, several sellers. Most of them only ship within DE. Also the HSP drift car sells cheaper than e.g. from Banggood because of the lack of taxes and shipping cost. I don't know how this is even possible, especially in the case of the Wltoys since in retail it's cheaper seller-imported to EU than directly from Banggood. So these chinese sellers with EU stocks must get these cars from the factories for, let's estimate 15 Euros or so? LOL
El motor Brushless necesita cambiar todo por piezas de metal coronas cardan piñones diferencial de lo contrario al primer esfuerzo se romperan las piezas
Thanks for the update. Waiting for mine to arrive... nice to get good info so as to avoid the beast being out of action for months due to lack of spares
No worries dude
I sheared off 3 of those diff screws already, all in the front diff. It seems to be the only weakness on mine.
My wltoys 12428-B came with all metal gears stock, except spur. Great car! Nice vids!
Thanks dude... mine is one of the first ones. So had to upgrade to metal
how did you get out the broken off screw?
Oops broke it! Lol to much power for that lil guy! Great video brotha!
Cheers Dude....she'll be back soon. Hopefully ripping up the BMX track!
Where is the drive shaft from?
Hi thanks for this update .. and i have a question can you tell me what else i need to change if i buy this brushless motor with this esc ??
You'll need a Transmitter/Receiver & 3 wire servo.
@@TomleyRC Thanks for your information, And i have another question if you do not mind, can you tell me on what basis i select the appropriate transmitter, receiver & servo for the esc ?
and please i need to understand why i have to change the original receiver, transmitter and the servo if i just need to change the motor & esc ?? and sorry if I bothered you
The brushless ESC will not work with the original electronics, you need a separate receiver to plug it in to, and then you'll need a 3 wire steering servo as the original servo is 5 wire and won't fit a separate receiver.
Hello, quick question,i am also using a BL MOTOR 3650 4 poles 3900KV a 60A esc, and for the receiver a Flysky A3.
I am using the original battery that came with this, but i had to change the controller.i Also bought a 2200 2 Cell lipo.
i swapped now 3 controllers as i have a serious problem.Sometimes when i accelerate it does not stop.Just goes .
Can you tell me what battery are you using and Controller please?
I use a FlySky GT3C, not had a problem with it 👍
Glad you traced the problem. Could you post a link to the metal diff and gearbox parts that you used?
No problem dude, if you go to www.aliexpress.com and search Wltoys 12428 metal gears there are a few different sellers 👍
Thanks but from the posts on RC Groups all have too tight a mesh and all need machining to fit. Did yours work without mods?
Yes they are a bit tight, but I put plenty of grease on and ran it, it’s much smoother now. No mods at all. I think it may be a bit hit & miss 👍
Thanks
hey man was wondering how much run time you were getting?
About 10-12mins
I had this same issue. I ended up drilling all the way through and used larger screws and locking nuts. Never broke another since.
Good idea 🤘
That bent shaft will cause vibration for sure. Change it at some point I would.
Yeah, was probably that which caused the Diff issue.👍
Hey man I know you are super busy with all the mad stuff you do but I have one of these and I'm trying to make it mentally fast, could you put a 5500+kv motor in? I'm currently on a 3500kv motor(waiting on my 4500kv motor to arrive) just want to see a speed test on it with high kv motor
I always say - anything on this car held together with that dreaded M2*8 screw needs to be changed, or have a spare ready - and anything linked to it!. Its a rubbish screw used all over that drive train, impossible to remove without breaking. Good luck
Good video! The driveshaft on mine is loose and it slips. It only has torque on the front wheels
My rear one keeps coming undone and falling out....forever tightening the Grub screws!
Tomley RC Garage that happed to me until it fell out and I lost it. I bought a new one and it was loose and unfixable
I think I've worn the rear axle casing, so it moves about a bit and just ends up coming loose. Maybe I should get a new rear axle.
Nice video!! Where are you getting the spares/upgrades from? My lad has one and needs the rear centre drive shaft and new front diff casing. Tia.
naymo1 I get my spares from either Banggood or AliExpress, can take a few weeks to arrive though. 👍🏻
😲she exploded! Looks like you gave it a bit to much in the bashing department! Fix her up!
Just gotta wait for the diff to arrive and she's good to go....until next time 😂
Shen RC hello u sneaky snake 🐍
Skate park doing what it does best! :P
Love this car, it's perfect if I'm not feeling in a 'Bison' mood. haven't done any mods on mine apart from sorting out the wild amount of toe-out. Some great tips in here Tomley. Subscribed. 👍🏼
Oh, recommendations for a spare battery?
DeadlyDiddly Cheers Dude 👍🏻 Yeah it’s a pretty decent truck for the money! Even in stock form it’s good. I keep meaning to put some tie rods on to sort out the toe out....just so many other stuff on the go I haven’t got around to it yet. Thanks for the Sub mate...more to come from this 👍🏻
As for battery’s, I use these rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F232830382427
@@TomleyRC i
Waiting for the next video with the bigger wheels. :)
Hopefully not long before the parts arrive!
i think you should lock your rear diff. You`re not racing you`re just bashing, it will be more aggressive and more power to the rear end. this thing does have a slipper clutch right?
No slipper clutch on this one, locking the rear diff will make it harder to get the power down as it will just sit on it's back wheels all the time, it's bad enough as it is 😜👍
Hey bud, where did you buy the parts from? I need a Spur for my car. Thanks
Banggood usually dude.... www.banggood.com/WLtoys-12428-2_4G-112-4WD-Crawler-RC-Car-With-LED-Light-p-1046285.html?p=ZG011417754104201801
perfect, Thanks. Couldn't find a UK supplier unfortunately.
Yeah, not really anything about over here. Most of the stuff only take about 2 weeks to get here from Banggood
Even with stock electronics, i also got bent drive shaft.. I straightened them up but still comes bent after few runs.
Yes, they are pretty quick out the box!
Sir, is it possible to upgrade to brushless system even if i use the same stock radio controller and receiver? Please reply. Thank u
No, you will need a new controller and receiver 👍
Thanks a lot, sir!
I have this transmitter laying around. Will this work if I get a new receiver that binds to the Flysky? Why is it that you need a new Tx and Rx when going brushless?
FlySky FS-GT3B 2.4GHz 3-Channel Transmitter www.amazon.com/dp/B00FS2UAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2PJ8BbWYCY7WV
Does URS stall when the battery is on low?
Lipo cut off yes....but not before. Although when it was stock, it would often cut off and need to be turned on/off to get it working again.
Hi there, is wltoys 12428 better than a jjrc q46?
Genrally the JJRC's build quality is better. I'd probably go for the JJRC is I had a choice. (Looks real nice as well!)
@@TomleyRC thankssss
Ya must throw that off a ruff or something cause I couldn’t brake mine even when I tried
The videos on this channel will answer that :)
Give it time
Loctite 603/609 green "retaining compound" "Application: Slip Fitted Parts " Its made for baring shafts to hold bearings in place it wont come un-done! Green Loctite will fix your metal diff gear.
It sheared this time on the front, so not sure the loctite would have helped there....but I'll get some of the green stuff for future cheers dude 👍
This isnt your normal locktite , its like super glue for metal if you put it on a bolt the bolt head will twist off first on a grade 8 bolt.
So you put the loctite directly into the gear inside the diff?
Why not buy an aluminum gear?
I gave the reason in the Video 😉👍
Tomley RC Garage oops, must have missed that part.
Tomley RC Garage so the metal gear still grinds up? I figured it would last.
1:10 😜👍
Jon Collins Metal will last a lot longer. I keep the plastic spur so it goes first and protects the metal stuff. If you have all metal gears there is no real weak spot and it’s more expensive to replace the diffs than the spur 👍
I have the 12423 and after going to 2s lipo on the stock drive line it grenaded the rear diff. Replaced that then the next run the front diff grenaded so I ripped it the from drive shaft and pinion gear so its 2wd now.. and honestly it's more fun.. faster and does way cooler things on dirt
I've got a little idea with mine...which will see it RWD....I'll get the 4wd stuff done first! Stay tuned! 🤘
Of all the components that heavy nose-dive might have trashed, I´d never have guessed it´d be the motor...
I´ve just come from my local RC shop - he has these very cars on display, marked up at 118 quid!
Yeah, took a few hard landings as well so probably didn't help. 'Ripmax Across' in the UK...and expensive!
the truck isnt designed for taking jumps like that...due to the geometry and lack of a bumper.
Plus a 3650 motor is on the over power side on 1/12 ....Lack of a sliper clutch dosnt help.
There's only a 2845 3000 KV in my Fy03. it has plenty of power. It'll do back flip from a stand
still ( on pavement) if I gun it on 3s. It'll pop wheelies on 2 s on grass. it's still fast on 2 or 3s.
The Fy03 front cvd actuate in and out..to prevent bending and binding...The fy03 also
has a sliper clutch...it slip a little so it wont strip on braking or hard torquing.
I even mounted KT-12 wheels and tires...they're slight taller ..and 1 3/4 wide.
The tires also acts like a cushion or shock absorber....( it helps)
Even so,....I still wont launch it off a big ramp..it's just asking for trouble or parts to break.
I like my fy03..it's still in one piece...drives great..
It's not desiign to do that,,...There;s lights on the roof rack...lmao
People launching off of bmx or skatboard ramps are doing
it on truggie or BUGGY PAN style designed...it's not as high...Plus the PAN SLAPPs the
ground to absorb the impac ..preventing over bending of the A -arms...Plus a bumper
will also help.....but it'll suck for CRAWLING.
The wheels stick out further than the bumper.
The 12428 or Fy03 can rock crawl and semi jumps,...short course type driving.
The dogbone will bend or jam the cups into the diff....which will cuase those screw to come
loose on hard landing or cart wheels
..it happens on my other 1/10 truggie R/C ( dogbone bending)...
it is what it is....sometimes it'll simply just rips the dogbone from the cup...
nothing breaks...you just pop it back in....
other times ..it'll shove it into the di'ff cups....i get some sort of binding noise from the diff.lol
It's definitely not designed to do them jumps...but when you have an empty Skatepark in front of you, it's hard to walk away 😂
Lmao....I know....There' s Big hill in a park where I live ( 40-50 feet high.)
There;s a walkway 10 wide cuted into the side of it...around 15-20 high..
Theres a natural ramp going down hill to jump the walk way.....
If I clear it...it's like a 25 feet drop...lmao.
You have to stand on the bottom of the hill to watch it lunch...
It killed a couple of my trucks....I had too...
12428 doesn't have a slipper on the spur gear?
there is on Virhuck V01, but it's only 390 powered.
No,,,the 12428 dosnt have a slipper clutch . It has a 550 motor.
It has a bigger motor and faster out of the box...
It's also HEAVIER....counter wiegth also added to help balance
the truck....
The spyder/bevel gears are also plastic....That's why need to upgrade it
if you want to install a brushless...becuase the bevel gear will strip...
Not the teeth itself...but the slot the output CUP slides into.
The Virhuck/Fy03....has a slippery clutch and all metal gears in the diff.
It's easier to upgrade to brushless.....I can hear the slipper clutch clicking
every so often...when I break or reverse....it 's enough to prevent/minimize spur gear stripping.,,It's one of maintenance you'll have to do,..inspect the slipper clutch NUT..
tighten it back up....
I don't know. Out of the box the whole drive-train wobbles. On 2S these CVDs bend like butter, already. On 3S one of mine broke. Seems to be this "pressed" powder metal? They should make them more expensive and beefier. Kinda frustrating to bend them back after almost every outing. Let's see what breaks next! For a child only running this on 2S this is the best car imo. But for a brushless system some parts need a revision. The quality of the budget 1/10th HSP cars is far better, drive-train - wise. But this "chewing gum" - plastic of Wltoys, Xinlehong and so on is almost a miracle. I showed the Wltoys to a neighbor, threw it in a very bad angle down on the concrete and he was sure something broke! Nothing broke, LOL.
They have improved these a bit now, however, this one has been running 2s Brushless with upgraded metal gears and stock CVDs with minimal issues. But for less than $100 they are pretty good out the box 👍
@@TomleyRC I have the latest version! Almost new, came some weeks ago. Maybe I was unlucky with that CVD. Time will tell. Yes, you can't really complain. This truck sells 55 Euros in Germany. Means if you live in Germany you have free shipping. That's crazy. I'd buy two at once to have one as a spare (live in Cyprus unfortunately, always horrendous shipping costs!)
@@InTheSh8 55 Euro is a good deal! Shame about Cyprus shipping!
@@TomleyRC On Ebay, several sellers. Most of them only ship within DE. Also the HSP drift car sells cheaper than e.g. from Banggood because of the lack of taxes and shipping cost. I don't know how this is even possible, especially in the case of the Wltoys since in retail it's cheaper seller-imported to EU than directly from Banggood. So these chinese sellers with EU stocks must get these cars from the factories for, let's estimate 15 Euros or so? LOL
Andreas Nold I’d certainly like to know how much they pay for them...and where they get them 😎👍
El motor Brushless necesita cambiar todo por piezas de metal coronas cardan piñones diferencial de lo contrario al primer esfuerzo se romperan las piezas