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I rebuilt a 2006 BMW 525i with an N52 engine. In the rebuild, I replaced the engine head. The valve seals ARE notorious for burning oil. I belive the engine cover is the cause for premature valve seal failure. I also use Lucas Oil Stabilizer. It is great for keeping seals well, too. I love you guys! Your advice is 100% accurate. Thank you for everything. God Bless.
What oil consumption did you have before rebuilding the engine head? What else did you replace? I currently have also N52 with significant oil burning issue and I'm planning to rebuild the head with new head gasket and valve seals. For now I don't plan to do a ring job.
@@svetlinspirov5758 The previous owner was putting in one quart of oil per month (heavy driving). I replaced all the gaskets on the engine, the water pump & thermostat, coolant hoses, A/C hardware (all of it), full fuel system rebuild (new pump & filter, cleaned the injectors), Harmonic Balancer, Belt Tensioner, belt, rebuilt the alternator, power steering flush & reservoir replaement. I too left the rings and bearings alone. I replaced the Timing Chain & Cam Phasers (very important). The rebuilt Head also seals better than the original one. After about 200K miles, the valves do not seat as well. I replaced the coil packs and I use, "Pulstar" spark plugs. All the electrical connectors have been cleaned to include the engine compartment. All the plastics have been bathed in Armor All and I cleaned the Mass Airflow Sensor. I use a K&N air filter (stock fitting). That's just the engine. My compression tests all panned out just fine. The engine fired up perfect on the 1st try. I attest that to BMW's engineering.
I need help, I own an 06 525i, I have issues with it rn. Took me a year to pass the smog, but still small problems. Like driver door receiving no power. And the driver side receiving little cold air.
@@the_homie_me Yes, sir! OK, so here's what I did in your case for the Driver's side A/C vent. I took apart the entire dash board, the front & back seats & center console. You have to to get to the, "A/C evaporator core assembly." The airflow coming off of the evaporator core assembly is blocked. It takes the disassembly of the entire dash, etc. to be able to clean the airflow being blocked by debris. OR, try to use a small diameter vacuum hose through the hood cabin air intake to remove the big debris. With the Driver's door, try looking for a fuse. Otherwise, it's disassembly with a multi meter. Smog issues,... That's O2 sensors, MAF sensor, Fuel injector cleaning, spark plugs (I highly recommend PULSTAR, put Nuclear Weapon's triggers in you BMW), ignition coils and possibly new Catalytic Converters.
Hey, that’s an amazing video. Did you put in the addictive after you changed the oil and if it’s 4 litters that fits the car, adding another litter won’t be a problem?
gonna try this on my 2009 Camry (Aurion) ACV40R with the 2AZ-FE once I get back. Just ordered it online from the official Liqui Moly store in my country, hope it works. I swapped the previous Ravenol HDX 5W-30 with the FK 10W-40 to mitigate the oil burning issue.
@@waqashussain2310 Seems to have helped, I think the valve stem seals were not too bad on mine with only occasional smoke at start up, haven't noticed anything since.
@@WayToManyAssassins Agree, the way to check which it is, idle the engine (tick over in UK) for a few minutes, then hit the gas, blue smoke=valve stem seals, run engine at 3000 rpm constant for a minute or so, blue smoke=oil control rings.
I already had my oil change and it's already nearly 3K km mileage and already 2liter loss of the oil.just top up the oil few days back...can i just add the liqui molly oil saver in the existing engine oil or should i change a new oil before put the oil save?
do an oil change bro , use liqui moly engine cleaner then run it with motor oil saver i have the same car in the video , i also run ceratec it works great youll feel the difference with how it runs
I had my car, a bmw x3 2.0 2006 model with n46b20b petrol engine, on an engine test yesterday 30.11.2023 at a bmw dealer due to poor power, very high oil consumption 3 ltr on 1000 km and cheating. Here is the conclusion they reached: We have taken a compression test and compression is ok, equal on all cylinders. No excess pressure in the crankcase or serious leaks from the engine. There is an ignition fault in the fault memory. They also write the following: We have had problems with this engine before. It has been warm driven by the previous owner. We tried with engine flush and Valvolin oil without any improvement. The engine does not have the typical symptoms of worn valve seals such as blue smoke when starting a cold engine and when decelerating when downshifting. The engine smokes blue when accelerating after slow driving and idling. Therefore, I wonder if, even if the compression is ok, the oil rings could still be the culprit because they are worn and destroyed due to hot running of the engine
Hi Everyone, I have e39 m54 2.5l engine with manual trans, Its swallowing 1qt every 350miles, compression all six cylinders 190,s Car runs very strong goes uphill on 5th gear ones picks up speed, no smoke, no leaks changed crancase ventilation tube, where does oil goes? I can't tell, did anyone has this issue? THANKS.
My 2012 X1 e84 (manual) seems to be burning oil really quickly. It went from 90% on the dipstick to about 10% after 300 miles. But there are no obvious leaks. Any idea what could be happening?
@@gameova5962 Interesting, my car also has a lot of DPF related issues. Had to have it cleaned twice in the last year. I've had the EGR valve replaced but it hasn't seemed to have fixed it. Will check o2 sensor
@@iambenmitchell yeah, sounds like a sensor issue. Possibly dirty making the engine Regen the DPF. When they Regen, they spit oil into the DPF etc. I had a Corsa 1.3 with a DPF and my o2 sensor was faulty. The DPF would Regen every 10 mins burning oil like mad. Hope this helps your car.
@@gameova5962 I cleared all DTCs a few days ago and have just done a scan on my car now and I have these showing up: 480A: 480A particulate filter system 40D4: 40D4 exhaust gas recirculation control, position control Not sure why though, I have a New EGR valve so I don't get why it is having position control issues
⛐ Check out our Garage to see what tools we use and recommend:
www.amazon.com/shop/worldmechanics
⛐ Subscribe and hit the notification bell by the subscribe button for new videos: ua-cam.com/users/AutoRepairGuys
⛐ Our GoFundMe Page: gofund.me/6b64d3a8
Check it out and help us keep providing these free videos to you
I rebuilt a 2006 BMW 525i with an N52 engine. In the rebuild, I replaced the engine head. The valve seals ARE notorious for burning oil. I belive the engine cover is the cause for premature valve seal failure. I also use Lucas Oil Stabilizer. It is great for keeping seals well, too.
I love you guys! Your advice is 100% accurate. Thank you for everything. God Bless.
What oil consumption did you have before rebuilding the engine head? What else did you replace? I currently have also N52 with significant oil burning issue and I'm planning to rebuild the head with new head gasket and valve seals. For now I don't plan to do a ring job.
@@svetlinspirov5758 The previous owner was putting in one quart of oil per month (heavy driving). I replaced all the gaskets on the engine, the water pump & thermostat, coolant hoses, A/C hardware (all of it), full fuel system rebuild (new pump & filter, cleaned the injectors), Harmonic Balancer, Belt Tensioner, belt, rebuilt the alternator, power steering flush & reservoir replaement. I too left the rings and bearings alone. I replaced the Timing Chain & Cam Phasers (very important). The rebuilt Head also seals better than the original one. After about 200K miles, the valves do not seat as well. I replaced the coil packs and I use, "Pulstar" spark plugs. All the electrical connectors have been cleaned to include the engine compartment. All the plastics have been bathed in Armor All and I cleaned the Mass Airflow Sensor. I use a K&N air filter (stock fitting). That's just the engine. My compression tests all panned out just fine. The engine fired up perfect on the 1st try. I attest that to BMW's engineering.
I need help, I own an 06 525i, I have issues with it rn. Took me a year to pass the smog, but still small problems. Like driver door receiving no power. And the driver side receiving little cold air.
@@the_homie_me Yes, sir! OK, so here's what I did in your case for the Driver's side A/C vent. I took apart the entire dash board, the front & back seats & center console. You have to to get to the, "A/C evaporator core assembly." The airflow coming off of the evaporator core assembly is blocked. It takes the disassembly of the entire dash, etc. to be able to clean the airflow being blocked by debris. OR, try to use a small diameter vacuum hose through the hood cabin air intake to remove the big debris. With the Driver's door, try looking for a fuse. Otherwise, it's disassembly with a multi meter. Smog issues,... That's O2 sensors, MAF sensor, Fuel injector cleaning, spark plugs (I highly recommend PULSTAR, put Nuclear Weapon's triggers in you BMW), ignition coils and possibly new Catalytic Converters.
@@MasterX767 Thank you for your insights, I really appreciate how you are still helping people out here on the internet.
Hey, that’s an amazing video. Did you put in the addictive after you changed the oil and if it’s 4 litters that fits the car, adding another litter won’t be a problem?
How is the chain on this one ? Heard BMW fixed the stretched timing chain issue because of bad timing chains for N20/N26 in the 2015+ model year(s).
You guys are the best 👌🏻 your efforts are well appreciated and your methods are very understandable
gonna try this on my 2009 Camry (Aurion) ACV40R with the 2AZ-FE once I get back. Just ordered it online from the official Liqui Moly store in my country, hope it works. I swapped the previous Ravenol HDX 5W-30 with the FK 10W-40 to mitigate the oil burning issue.
I am about to try this on my '07 325i, this product seems to be the most recommended.
did to work ?
@@waqashussain2310 Seems to have helped, I think the valve stem seals were not too bad on mine with only occasional smoke at start up, haven't noticed anything since.
@onecookieboy the guide seals usually aren't as much of an issue on the 6 cylinders it's typically the oil control rings on the pistons
@@WayToManyAssassins Agree, the way to check which it is, idle the engine (tick over in UK) for a few minutes, then hit the gas, blue smoke=valve stem seals, run engine at 3000 rpm constant for a minute or so, blue smoke=oil control rings.
Hi there can it be used on automatic transmission engine
Can you use the oil saver for dual clutch transmission
No shit it’s literally for a motor
You can use at205
Is this product better than tribotex, friend? which do you recommend liquid moly or tribotex?
I already had my oil change and it's already nearly 3K km mileage and already 2liter loss of the oil.just top up the oil few days back...can i just add the liqui molly oil saver in the existing engine oil or should i change a new oil before put the oil save?
do an oil change bro , use liqui moly engine cleaner then run it with motor oil saver i have the same car in the video , i also run ceratec it works great youll feel the difference with how it runs
Hi can u give feedback, is it working?
@@mrubensv
What's your opinion on the liquid molly engine flush? My 330i has 235k miles 😁
Would not recommend
@@slipry_snake3424 this was a year ago I already did it 😂 cars still running strong.
@@Joeshomegaragegood shit
I got same problem with BMW 318i 2017🤯
I had my car, a bmw x3 2.0 2006 model with n46b20b petrol engine, on an engine test yesterday 30.11.2023 at a bmw dealer due to poor power, very high oil consumption 3 ltr on 1000 km and cheating. Here is the conclusion they reached: We have taken a compression test and compression is ok, equal on all cylinders. No excess pressure in the crankcase or serious leaks from the engine. There is an ignition fault in the fault memory.
They also write the following: We have had problems with this engine before. It has been warm driven by the previous owner. We tried with engine flush and Valvolin oil without any improvement.
The engine does not have the typical symptoms of worn valve seals such as blue smoke when starting a cold engine and when decelerating when downshifting. The engine smokes blue when accelerating after slow driving and idling. Therefore, I wonder if, even if the compression is ok, the oil rings could still be the culprit because they are worn and destroyed due to hot running of the engine
No, it's the valve seals. When you replace them they are rock hard and don't seal properly across the valve stem.
سيارات غاليه وتهريبات زيوت وردائه تصنيع شي غريب ومتعب
Hi Everyone, I have e39 m54 2.5l engine with manual trans, Its swallowing 1qt every 350miles, compression all six cylinders 190,s
Car runs very strong goes uphill on 5th gear ones picks up speed, no smoke, no leaks changed crancase ventilation tube, where does oil goes? I can't tell, did anyone has this issue? THANKS.
100 times guys I get sick of this
My 2012 X1 e84 (manual) seems to be burning oil really quickly. It went from 90% on the dipstick to about 10% after 300 miles. But there are no obvious leaks. Any idea what could be happening?
Might be DPF related if you have one. Could be clogged, or the o2 Sensor is faulty causing it to regen constantly
@@gameova5962 Interesting, my car also has a lot of DPF related issues. Had to have it cleaned twice in the last year. I've had the EGR valve replaced but it hasn't seemed to have fixed it. Will check o2 sensor
@@iambenmitchell yeah, sounds like a sensor issue. Possibly dirty making the engine Regen the DPF. When they Regen, they spit oil into the DPF etc.
I had a Corsa 1.3 with a DPF and my o2 sensor was faulty. The DPF would Regen every 10 mins burning oil like mad.
Hope this helps your car.
@@gameova5962 cheers! Will take a look at the sensor tomorrow :)
@@gameova5962 I cleared all DTCs a few days ago and have just done a scan on my car now and I have these showing up:
480A: 480A particulate filter system
40D4: 40D4 exhaust gas recirculation control, position control
Not sure why though, I have a New EGR valve so I don't get why it is having position control issues
It's crap nothing will work until you get it fixed it covertly until you fix it covertly
BMW doesn't recommend any oil additive because they can do ireparabile damages, why are you saying this works on BMW engines?
Shut upp