As someone who has been doing tons of cleaning of the caked on dirt with grease on my C10, I find that dry scraping it off first (with a screw driver) then brushing with either a power or hand steel brush works best. I bought mine with a transmission leak, power steering leak, water pump leak, and oil leaks so I have had an enormous amount of cleaning to do.
Compare prices at Rock Auto but include shipping to total. Moog uses a sintered metal bushing, most do. The trend from Europe is low friction high density nylon injected around the ball. Everything else is the same as some give you lifetime warranty. Print receipt, take photo of receipt with VIN, place in plastic page protecter and create a service manual. Especially for schematics of electrical circuits you add. Create a drawing for each Circuit and number the “Cell” last page, identify the connector by number, photo for G100 on page #?? Back of manual, include insert to component, connector, switch and fuse. If broke down somewhere, anyone can fix it with your book, CD or thumb drive. Adds value if you sell it someday of your kid and grandson or grand daughter inherits the vehicle. I use the same format as GM. But everyone used this format on paper service manuals. Even a separate one just for electrical. Just my thoughts. Ask Mr. Wizard, the car guy. ASE Master Tech since 1978.
I had to get 73-87 lower arms for my 70 C20 3/4 to 1/2 ton conversion because the 3/4 ton ball joints are larger and couldn't get them to press in so a shop torched my fresh paint so he could say he even tried heat but I could tell he just didn't have the right tool and didn't want to admit the misquote and the second shop charged me $250...what a nightmare.
Yeah there’s a lot of different sizes between the years. Found that out when bagging my buddies blue c10. All parts don’t interchange as easy as you’d think.
Lube, adaptors, bearing splitter & 20 ton press. Rubber bushings are more difficult and in service manual, to be installed with slight angle to add pressure to normal ride height. Don a lot of them over the decades and those with funny shapes are harder. Maybe that explains the one tool box full of pullers, pushers, adaptor and boxes of old bearing races, exhaust tubing chunks & pipe pieces. Then you still don’t have what you need! Dagnabbit!
I appreciate the fact you have made a video for control arm rebuild but why grind off rivets when you can air chisel them off, punch, then you are done. Also spending 4 whole minutes in the video wire brushing the rust and grease. Drop the time lapse speed and slow down and focus on the actual install of the bushing.
I agree Tommy, There is more than one way to skin a cat. These rivets are bigger on the frame & if manual trans crossmember, I think there are 12. Use the angle grinder and make an “X” in the head. Air hammers cost vary but they make noise and cut stuff like sheet metal, spot welds and knock the head of the rivet. Switch bits to a tapered punch and they are on the floor so my wife can sweep them up! Get busy dear and bring me a cold one while you are up... What, wait, it doesn’t work that way in your garage? ASE Master Tech since 78. Lol!!! You gotta have fun sometimes.
If you don’t want a tech to hammer on a screwdriver, then don’t tell him not to. If you don’t want open or repair a blower fan resistor, then don’t cast it with “Do not open or repair” because you know they are going to... ASE Master since 1978-Retired
As someone who has been doing tons of cleaning of the caked on dirt with grease on my C10, I find that dry scraping it off first (with a screw driver) then brushing with either a power or hand steel brush works best. I bought mine with a transmission leak, power steering leak, water pump leak, and oil leaks so I have had an enormous amount of cleaning to do.
awesome video
Thanks!
Great video. Thnk you.
Any time! Hope it helps
Great video I need to replace the ones on my 67c10 that I'm restoring on my UA-cam channel. Thanks for all the info
Compare prices at Rock Auto but include shipping to total. Moog uses a sintered metal bushing, most do. The trend from Europe is low friction high density nylon injected around the ball. Everything else is the same as some give you lifetime warranty. Print receipt, take photo of receipt with VIN, place in plastic page protecter and create a service manual. Especially for schematics of electrical circuits you add. Create a drawing for each Circuit and number the “Cell” last page, identify the connector by number, photo for G100 on page #?? Back of manual, include insert to component, connector, switch and fuse. If broke down somewhere, anyone can fix it with your book, CD or thumb drive. Adds value if you sell it someday of your kid and grandson or grand daughter inherits the vehicle. I use the same format as GM. But everyone used this format on paper service manuals. Even a separate one just for electrical. Just my thoughts. Ask Mr. Wizard, the car guy.
ASE Master Tech since 1978.
I had to get 73-87 lower arms for my 70 C20 3/4 to 1/2 ton conversion because the 3/4 ton ball joints are larger and couldn't get them to press in so a shop torched my fresh paint so he could say he even tried heat but I could tell he just didn't have the right tool and didn't want to admit the misquote and the second shop charged me $250...what a nightmare.
Yeah there’s a lot of different sizes between the years. Found that out when bagging my buddies blue c10. All parts don’t interchange as easy as you’d think.
Do you know where I can buy some brand new I’ve been to every auto parts store and no one has them
I ended up getting mine from Napa
Harbor freight must know you by name
What are the torque specs for the top ball joints?
what size socket did you use on the lower a arm ? thank you great video
Top 1-3/8” bottom 1-5/8”
What's the song that starts at 3:40?
LOWER control arm FOR 85 c10 WAS MORE DIFFICULT
Lube, adaptors, bearing splitter & 20 ton press. Rubber bushings are more difficult and in service manual, to be installed with slight angle to add pressure to normal ride height. Don a lot of them over the decades and those with funny shapes are harder. Maybe that explains the one tool box full of pullers, pushers, adaptor and boxes of old bearing races, exhaust tubing chunks & pipe pieces. Then you still don’t have what you need! Dagnabbit!
I appreciate the fact you have made a video for control arm rebuild but why grind off rivets when you can air chisel them off, punch, then you are done. Also spending 4 whole minutes in the video wire brushing the rust and grease. Drop the time lapse speed and slow down and focus on the actual install of the bushing.
I agree Tommy, There is more than one way to skin a cat. These rivets are bigger on the frame & if manual trans crossmember, I think there are 12. Use the angle grinder and make an “X” in the head. Air hammers cost vary but they make noise and cut stuff like sheet metal, spot welds and knock the head of the rivet. Switch bits to a tapered punch and they are on the floor so my wife can sweep them up! Get busy dear and bring me a cold one while you are up... What, wait, it doesn’t work that way in your garage? ASE Master Tech since 78. Lol!!! You gotta have fun sometimes.
Hammering a screwdriver. The horror.
Haha you know you’ve done it before. And I’d never use hood screwdrivers like that.
If you don’t want a tech to hammer on a screwdriver, then don’t tell him not to.
If you don’t want open or repair a blower fan resistor, then don’t cast it with “Do not open or repair” because you know they are going to...
ASE Master since 1978-Retired