Shop manual says torque/tighten the cap screws first. I found it easier to get the outside pin aligned with the holes (if you're moving the bars back and fighting against the cables that go through the retaining bars that are attached to the hardware plates that are in the slots in the top triple clamp). I got the outside pins to align with the rear holes in the triple clamp, and use them as a pivot to bring the inside dowels into alignment. Once I got it started (evidenced by the rear of the bar seating against the triple clamp with the front of the bar slightly elevated), I snugged down on the nuts first. Once the bar started to pull into place, I dropped the cap screws in their holes, and kept trying to start them into the hardware plate. Incrementally snugging down the nuts, then trying the cap screw, I eventually got everything aligned. The wires and cables kinda fight ya through the process. But, be aware of where they're seating, 'cause mine were held tight with plastic cable ties. Take your time, and make sure none of the wires or cables get pinched, especially by the bar and between then the fork cap bolts/adjusters. Once you get the bar snugged against the triple clamp (feel between the rear of where the bar touches the clamp and the front), then torque the cap screw first. Cap screw torque is 17 lb-ft. Nuts are 47 lb-ft. Took the bike for a spin, and now my seating position is much more comfortable. I'm 5'-10, btw. Gonna do a longer ride next weekend (6 hours{, and I know from my short ride (2 hours), the rear most mounting of the bars is more comfortable, with minimal changes to wind flow to my head with the screen in the lowest position.
@@rodneypennington1086 Post a reply how that feels. With them the farthest back, I still feel like too much weight is on my arms for a sport tourer...and that's even though I ride the canyon roads of the Rockies (riding more like a sport bike than a touring bike). But, crazy as it sounds to me, maybe farther forward is more comfortable? Seems opposite of what I think, but sometimes what I'm not thinking is actually better. I'm curious how the bike feels for you going the opposite direction...
@@johntomasik1555 Did 160k ride today and I liked it. Less weight on bum and spine and less wind on helmet. Slight encouragement to go faster than usual. I made a wind deflector which adds a couple of inches height so just a slight tuck keeps all the wind off. I'm going to make another about an inch higher - then it will be like a GoldWing, only sportier ride position. I designed the deflector to be a couple of inches wider than the screen to eliminate buffeting but enough to support shoulders and keep weight off the wrists. I also have palm rests on each bar because I'm old. 69.
I just did this. Here are my hints: 1) Don't remove the main nuts completely. Just loosen them enough to lift the bar and reposition the alignment pins. Then you don't have to worry about where the handlebars hang. It makes it much easier for one person. 2) You may have to lift the wires to gain enough clearance to move the bars. 3) Get one alignment pin in and use it as a swivel to get the other pin in. Thanks for the video!
I would add to that, the pins had rust on them so have some WD-40 on hand to spray them. You also need an extra deep 17mm socket because the main bolt projects out far.from the nut.
For my 2013, I had to remove the nuts and pull the hardware plate back. I'd bet it depends on how they secured the wire bundles. It looks more like a manual installation, so the repeatability varies. Some of the wire go under the front of the triple clamp, and on my bike, I pulled them over the clamp a bit to give more slack in the wire bundle. It's a touch and go kinda thing.
not complete bro. I love your video's and have helped me on my almost new 2013 FJR but you have to finish this one. I attempted to move the handlebars in a notch, and it is a two person job to move the duel bolt/pin to keep it in place and relocate the small alignment pins to make the change. Taking it apart is easy. Putting back together with a change in position...... not so much,. You kinda left that part out...
Can you tell from looking at the bars from above whether or not they are already at the setting closest to the rider. On my 2014 FJR 1300 Es there does not appear to be much, if any, slack in the cables to move the bars.
Any recommendation on torque wrench brand? I have Harbor freight (about $15.00) or Sears ($60) in my area. I know some Harbor Freight items can be junky, just don't know about their torque wrenches.
Jerry Scott HF, Sears, an autostore, Walmart - all have consume grade units for very reasonable prices and are good enough for normal home use. If you are going to be using it a daily basis or commercially you have to step up to Mac, SnapOn etc.
Great video as usual! Do you have any thoughts on using bar risers (Helibars, etc) and how to judge the best ergonomics for one self? Do I need just a 1" riser (low cost) or do I need to spend the big bucks 1" riser and 1.5" back (helibars)?! Thanks in advance for any insight.
yep..that is a bit obvious; here is a website that I came across for future reference: cycle-ergo.com Based on this tool's output, I know that just 1" increase in rise will not give me the lowerback comfort that I seek (less lean)...I am going to need a riser option that also provides some throw back. Thanks.
I really like your videos. Is the 2013 the same as the 2014/2015 other than the ES and the cruise control upper limits? Also, on the ride position, is it upright with the bars all the way back. I have a concours now and the bike is very top heavy and has a lean forward ride position even with risers...2" up 1.5" back this is not the best bike for long distance riding. thanks.
Nice video (and FJR). I'd say, however, that if you're thinking 48 ft/lbs is a lot of torque, I'd advise you to steer clear of anything like changing out the main pulley on an S2000...
Hey Brian great video I have risers on my 07 and I wanted to know if they're adjustable to move forward or backward I want to move mine backward can I do that with the risers on?
I want to change the the angle to a wider position(straighter flatter position away out from me) to make it feel wider can I just adjust to the next hole?
hi I just instaled helibars rizers on mine 2015 to move my handlebars back and now when i break my rear break dont disconnect complitly, I can hear it. i have no idea why i could be happening.i bleed out breaks but didnt do anything with breaks itself. btw You are the best in this what you do here. simple way to explain everything. keep doing it because you are great.
Hi, when you said the dealer do that for free ! and then I look at the date you did this video so now I now nothing is done for free anymore at the dealer. Here in Phoenix just to check hand at the service adviser we have to pay. But anyway thank you for a great video.
thanks for the video, exactly what I needed to know. Video tip: be aware of what is in your foreground; not only can it block the view, it will also throw off your focus. thanks, again.
You say there are three sets of holes but I can see four -- three close together and another set separated a little and more forward. Can you not use that forward set? I just finished doing this and to answer my own question there are three pairs of holes with a fourth hole on the inside only so you can't use it.
Question: Looking at just the right hand handlebar, when we take it off, we see two rows of 3 pins each, one row on the left and one row on the right. Can the handlebar now be fitted to the #1 hole on the left row (at the top), and the #3 hole on the right row(at the bottom). If so, the end of the handlebar would move about 1-11/2 inches back. I'm trying really hard to be very clear here. Thanks
I can’t help but wonder, if you’re able to actually twist those handlebars towards you, using the locating holes in a diagonal pattern instead of a straight pattern…
thanks for the video. your right, nothing in the manual and i was shopping around for risers. can't find any for 2015 so had resolved to deal with the reach. i'll give this a try soon!
Im getting ready to buy a 2015 or 2016 fjr and you said in another video that the seats suck. What are your recommendations on seats? Im 6' and 190 pounds if this matters. Thank you Chris
Shop manual says torque/tighten the cap screws first. I found it easier to get the outside pin aligned with the holes (if you're moving the bars back and fighting against the cables that go through the retaining bars that are attached to the hardware plates that are in the slots in the top triple clamp). I got the outside pins to align with the rear holes in the triple clamp, and use them as a pivot to bring the inside dowels into alignment. Once I got it started (evidenced by the rear of the bar seating against the triple clamp with the front of the bar slightly elevated), I snugged down on the nuts first. Once the bar started to pull into place, I dropped the cap screws in their holes, and kept trying to start them into the hardware plate. Incrementally snugging down the nuts, then trying the cap screw, I eventually got everything aligned. The wires and cables kinda fight ya through the process. But, be aware of where they're seating, 'cause mine were held tight with plastic cable ties. Take your time, and make sure none of the wires or cables get pinched, especially by the bar and between then the fork cap bolts/adjusters. Once you get the bar snugged against the triple clamp (feel between the rear of where the bar touches the clamp and the front), then torque the cap screw first. Cap screw torque is 17 lb-ft. Nuts are 47 lb-ft.
Took the bike for a spin, and now my seating position is much more comfortable. I'm 5'-10, btw. Gonna do a longer ride next weekend (6 hours{, and I know from my short ride (2 hours), the rear most mounting of the bars is more comfortable, with minimal changes to wind flow to my head with the screen in the lowest position.
Done mine, trying the furthest forward position first. 5' 10' too.
@@rodneypennington1086 Post a reply how that feels. With them the farthest back, I still feel like too much weight is on my arms for a sport tourer...and that's even though I ride the canyon roads of the Rockies (riding more like a sport bike than a touring bike). But, crazy as it sounds to me, maybe farther forward is more comfortable? Seems opposite of what I think, but sometimes what I'm not thinking is actually better. I'm curious how the bike feels for you going the opposite direction...
@@johntomasik1555 Did 160k ride today and I liked it. Less weight on bum and spine and less wind on helmet. Slight encouragement to go faster than usual. I made a wind deflector which adds a couple of inches height so just a slight tuck keeps all the wind off. I'm going to make another about an inch higher - then it will be like a GoldWing, only sportier ride position. I designed the deflector to be a couple of inches wider than the screen to eliminate buffeting but enough to support shoulders and keep weight off the wrists. I also have palm rests on each bar because I'm old. 69.
I just did this. Here are my hints: 1) Don't remove the main nuts completely. Just loosen them enough to lift the bar and reposition the alignment pins. Then you don't have to worry about where the handlebars hang. It makes it much easier for one person. 2) You may have to lift the wires to gain enough clearance to move the bars. 3) Get one alignment pin in and use it as a swivel to get the other pin in.
Thanks for the video!
I would add to that, the pins had rust on them so have some WD-40 on hand to spray them. You also need an extra deep 17mm socket because the main bolt projects out far.from the nut.
For my 2013, I had to remove the nuts and pull the hardware plate back. I'd bet it depends on how they secured the wire bundles. It looks more like a manual installation, so the repeatability varies. Some of the wire go under the front of the triple clamp, and on my bike, I pulled them over the clamp a bit to give more slack in the wire bundle. It's a touch and go kinda thing.
Nice video, thanks. Just one suggestion - cover your tank with a heavy towel in case you do drop something.
Better than a Chiltons Manual. Great video!
not complete bro. I love your video's and have helped me on my almost new 2013 FJR but you have to finish this one. I attempted to move the handlebars in a notch, and it is a two person job to move the duel bolt/pin to keep it in place and relocate the small alignment pins to make the change. Taking it apart is easy. Putting back together with a change in position...... not so much,. You kinda left that part out...
Complete bro. I work alone and moved them no problem. Mine have been in the back position since this vid.
Can you tell from looking at the bars from above whether or not they are already at the setting closest to the rider. On my 2014 FJR 1300 Es there does not appear to be much, if any, slack in the cables to move the bars.
Any recommendation on torque wrench brand? I have Harbor freight (about $15.00) or Sears ($60) in my area. I know some Harbor Freight items can be junky, just don't know about their torque wrenches.
Jerry Scott HF, Sears, an autostore, Walmart - all have consume grade units for very reasonable prices and are good enough for normal home use. If you are going to be using it a daily basis or commercially you have to step up to Mac, SnapOn etc.
Great video as usual! Do you have any thoughts on using bar risers (Helibars, etc) and how to judge the best ergonomics for one self? Do I need just a 1" riser (low cost) or do I need to spend the big bucks 1" riser and 1.5" back (helibars)?! Thanks in advance for any insight.
+Juan-Pablo Gallego It's all personal preference. You just have to judge it for yourself
yep..that is a bit obvious; here is a website that I came across for future reference: cycle-ergo.com Based on this tool's output, I know that just 1" increase in rise will not give me the lowerback comfort that I seek (less lean)...I am going to need a riser option that also provides some throw back. Thanks.
The bolt head is 2.5mm, not the bolt. Set pins??? No, their called dowels. And you should do the larger nut 1st, or have to do the smaller one twice.
Thank you ! Especially part two !
Just picked up a clean 2009 fjr1300a. Thanks for the video, plan to adjust both the seat and bars..
thanks for the effort and the sharing. thumbs up.
I really like your videos. Is the 2013 the same as the 2014/2015 other than the ES and the cruise control upper limits? Also, on the ride position, is it upright with the bars all the way back. I have a concours now and the bike is very top heavy and has a lean forward ride position even with risers...2" up 1.5" back this is not the best bike for long distance riding. thanks.
Nice video (and FJR). I'd say, however, that if you're thinking 48 ft/lbs is a lot of torque, I'd advise you to steer clear of anything like changing out the main pulley on an S2000...
Uh, relative to the part, not what I can muscle.
Always one idiot in the room!!
F J R awesome machines !!!maybe aliens have one too !!! maybe not 😂😂😂😂
Hey Brian great video I have risers on my 07 and I wanted to know if they're adjustable to move forward or backward I want to move mine backward can I do that with the risers on?
That completely depends on the risers. This video is only about the stock setup.
TwoWheelObsession I didn't know there is more than one handlebar Riser I have the one inch risers
Thanks Brian for your quick response.
I want to change the the angle to a wider position(straighter flatter position away out from me) to make it feel wider can I just adjust to the next hole?
hi I just instaled helibars rizers on mine 2015 to move my handlebars back and now when i break my rear break dont disconnect complitly, I can hear it. i have no idea why i could be happening.i bleed out breaks but didnt do anything with breaks itself.
btw You are the best in this what you do here. simple way to explain everything. keep doing it because you are great.
Hi, when you said the dealer do that for free ! and then I look at the date you did this video so now I now nothing is done for free anymore at the dealer. Here in Phoenix just to check hand at the service adviser we have to pay. But anyway thank you for a great video.
Bravo, well spoken, no stutter stammer....very coherent. What a pleasure to listen to. Loved the vid!
thanks for the video, exactly what I needed to know. Video tip: be aware of what is in your foreground; not only can it block the view, it will also throw off your focus. thanks, again.
You say there are three sets of holes but I can see four -- three close together and another set separated a little and more forward. Can you not use that forward set?
I just finished doing this and to answer my own question there are three pairs of holes with a fourth hole on the inside only so you can't use it.
I watching you from Roumania. Great job! 👍😉
Can you tell me what position the handlebars are in from the factory. Thank you.
center
Question: Looking at just the right hand handlebar, when we take it off, we see two rows of 3 pins each, one row on the left and one row on the right. Can the handlebar now be fitted to the #1 hole on the left row (at the top), and the #3 hole on the right row(at the bottom). If so, the end of the handlebar would move about 1-11/2 inches back.
I'm trying really hard to be very clear here.
Thanks
No
I can’t help but wonder, if you’re able to actually twist those handlebars towards you, using the locating holes in a diagonal pattern instead of a straight pattern…
no
Does the 5mm change make much of a difference?
Bryan, all your video's are extremely helpful. Thanks for doing this.
Thanks. Great camera work, and a thorough explanation to back it up.
Did I miss the main nut size in the video?
Thx bro.u do great job.
thanks for the video. your right, nothing in the manual and i was shopping around for risers. can't find any for 2015 so had resolved to deal with the reach. i'll give this a try soon!
Scotty Schumann Don't expect much and it's nothing like risers.
+Scotty Schumann I have the risers and they are great!
47!!!!??good
Earlier models like my 2003 have a completely different setup than that, so this video doesn't apply to early models.
Thanks for the update that Gen I was different. It is the same for Gen II though so 2006+
I have an '04, the winter bike, and a '15. It's interesting to see the improvements in the design over time.
is there any way for me to tell what my setting is without taking the handle bars off. mine is a 2009 factory setting.
Did you ever do the modification? I have a 2009 as well, and wondering what the factory setting was, middle?
No, I have not messed with it but I like to set it as close as possible.
Love your video's!
Im getting ready to buy a 2015 or 2016 fjr and you said in another video that the seats suck. What are your recommendations on seats? Im 6' and 190 pounds if this matters. Thank you Chris
LAAM or RDL are the two sure bets. Everything else is a compromise.
TwoWheelObsession CORBIN makes backrest for the FJR. Do any of your recommended providers make backrest for the FJR...
TIA
Who is the manufacturer of your TORQUEWRENCH? I am looking into a Metric set for my new FJR...TIA😎
I just bought a 2016 used with Corbin seats. Nice, but wow, are they heavy compared to the Sargent.
Thanks man for your videos, they put me iin confidence when I do stuff on my 2014.