This was very educative. I didn't know it went so much for upkeep, granted it does but not that much, now I respect you guys more, keep it up and thank for sharing
Love your set up, I had a very similar set up only a right hand semi auto Lane #1 in Vermont, EM16 Morbark debarker, Mellotte turner ext. Sure miss thoughs days.. We has the hand crank rotory file that clamped on the blade. Keep up the good work!
Really enjoy watching you in every aspect of maintaining and running your saw mill. I worked at a high production hardwood mill for years in Vermont, running the edger and resaw along with filing and maintaining them every day and sometimes rotated around to trim saw and debarker when needed. The head Sawyers setup was exactly the same as yours except in opposite feed ,and minus the the horizontal edger saws as part of the setup. The whole mill equipment setup manufacturered by Lanetech in Barre VT. Never seen one of these types of edgers as part of head saw until i see your videos. Pretty sweet setup!... Have you ever experienced a malfunction in your switches on joysticks. Our sawyer did one day as a rock maple log was going thru that 4 ft radial blade shifting the log on the carriage resulting in the blade exploding a mere 20 feet behind me. Blade shrapnel flew everywhere. Pretty unnerving and scary!!! I still thank my lucky stars, and God that I nor the sawyer in the booth just a few feet away was not injured or worse that day. Love your videos man, and keep up the great work 👍
Yes I have those malfunctions! Sometimes it’s just a blown fuse or a bad switch, and I can handle that. So there are all kinds of dangerous shifts that can occur while I’m sawing! Splits will cause them, and unconventionally shaped logs will as well. This is who I like my logs trimmed up
@Helmsburgsawmill Yes, fuses can be an issue at times , but in this case it was a switch malfunction that caused the mishap that caused log shift during cutting. The debarker operator was in charge of and always making sure butt ends were trimmed if necessary and cleaned off with a chainsaw. Bad checking and splits were a big problem with White Ash, especially in the heat of summer. It was very dangerous as I once found out running re saw.
Can you explain more why one would want to file lead into the bits? I thought this was something to avoid but you seem to understand something I don’t. Just trying to learn more and more, thanks!
Yes! So most of the time I avoid lead. Only in rare circumstances will I put it into the teeth. And it’s not much. All of the teeth have to be evenly short, so circumstance would achieve this. The saw is always relying being pulled into the log. The lead will exaggerate that. Think of the lead as ores pulling through water
A few questions about safety. Are both top and bottom saws locked out? Same goes for carriage feedworks? I am assuming that you send out the saws to a filing shop to be hammered?
Good question. There’s a pretty strict policy about anyone going into the cab that isn’t me. Unless you’re invited, everyone knows to stay out. This is where all of the switches are to turn the saws and hydraulics on. And we send our saws to a shop to be hammered. But ya, if that saw gets turned on with me filing it, that’s bad news
Sweet. A lot of loggers emphasize quantity over quality and make lazy bucking decisions. I'm guilty of it on occasion. Never that bad. 😆 Awful pretty boards off that last log. Do ever say, screw the tie, and cut for grade? Great video.
I absolutely do!! This one’s worth breaking down. The Face board exedes the cross tie price. So if I have a nice log and I’m taking it down and there’s no knots, I might just go for a 3 1/2”x (where the knots stop in width)”. But I also have to assume those boards will be good on the other side, which can get tricky once you get close to the heart😬 because if I make the board and knots appear…. Well I can’t go backwards, and I lost the tie and have to make lower quality boards🤦♂️ but once I taste the timber I’m in, I know whether or not can do that! It’s actually a hard balance to find on a whim
Honestly I prefer filing to grinding the teeth. With the chrome plated you just have to grind them once. The chromes last longer than just the regular. I know the carbides last longer between sharpenings. But I feel I can personally get a saw tooth sharper with a file vs a grinder. And it takes me 1/4 of the time to use a file. And if you know how to use that file, I feel the sawyer can get a tooth sharp while taking less off with a file and can make them last longer that way.
Thank you Dave, I was wondering because I have some carbide teeth and they’re over 1/8 of inch wider than my chrome plated teeth. Certain people keep saying use carbide. With how much we saw, we can’t lose that 1/8th inch.
I remember watching my Dad and Papaw sharpening the saw and changing the teeth. I still have 3 saws and a few boxes of teeth and rings. Good video.
This was very educative. I didn't know it went so much for upkeep, granted it does but not that much, now I respect you guys more, keep it up and thank for sharing
Love your set up, I had a very similar set up only a right hand semi auto Lane #1 in Vermont, EM16 Morbark debarker, Mellotte turner ext. Sure miss thoughs days.. We has the hand crank rotory file that clamped on the blade. Keep up the good work!
Southern Indiana has some premium hardwood.
People literally have no idea! You see my most recent full video?
@@Helmsburgsawmill yes. Bingeing. You sell to the public?
We sure do! Sorry I didn’t see this till now
Appreciate the commentary of why/how you are sawing. Also how to you determine what logs to use for Ties vs grade lumber, is it on size or defects?
It is a combination of both! Right now with Red Oak. It’s better to determine while I’m sawing
Really enjoy watching you in every aspect of maintaining and running your saw mill.
I worked at a high production hardwood mill for years in Vermont, running the edger and resaw along with filing and maintaining them every day and sometimes rotated around to trim saw and debarker when needed.
The head Sawyers setup was exactly the same as yours except in opposite feed ,and minus the the horizontal edger saws as part of the setup. The whole mill equipment setup manufacturered by Lanetech in Barre VT.
Never seen one of these types of edgers as part of head saw until i see your videos. Pretty sweet setup!...
Have you ever experienced a malfunction in your switches on joysticks. Our sawyer did one day as a rock maple log was going thru that 4 ft radial blade shifting the log on the carriage resulting in the blade exploding a mere 20 feet behind me. Blade shrapnel flew everywhere. Pretty unnerving and scary!!!
I still thank my lucky stars, and God that I nor the sawyer in the booth just a few feet away was not injured or worse that day.
Love your videos man, and keep up the great work 👍
Yes I have those malfunctions! Sometimes it’s just a blown fuse or a bad switch, and I can handle that. So there are all kinds of dangerous shifts that can occur while I’m sawing! Splits will cause them, and unconventionally shaped logs will as well. This is who I like my logs trimmed up
@Helmsburgsawmill Yes, fuses can be an issue at times , but in this case it was a switch malfunction that caused the mishap that caused log shift during cutting.
The debarker operator was in charge of and always making sure butt ends were trimmed if necessary and cleaned off with a chainsaw.
Bad checking and splits were a big problem with White Ash, especially in the heat of summer. It was very dangerous as I once found out running re saw.
Can you explain more why one would want to file lead into the bits? I thought this was something to avoid but you seem to understand something I don’t. Just trying to learn more and more, thanks!
Yes! So most of the time I avoid lead. Only in rare circumstances will I put it into the teeth. And it’s not much. All of the teeth have to be evenly short, so circumstance would achieve this. The saw is always relying being pulled into the log. The lead will exaggerate that. Think of the lead as ores pulling through water
But don’t take this as I always cut with lead! Because a lot of people do and you’re correct 95% of the time. Lead isn’t conventional.
great content, have you thought of numbering your videos so those of who are new to the channel can keep track😊
A few questions about safety. Are both top and bottom saws locked out? Same goes for carriage feedworks? I am assuming that you send out the saws to a filing shop to be hammered?
Good question. There’s a pretty strict policy about anyone going into the cab that isn’t me. Unless you’re invited, everyone knows to stay out. This is where all of the switches are to turn the saws and hydraulics on. And we send our saws to a shop to be hammered. But ya, if that saw gets turned on with me filing it, that’s bad news
So what is each tie worth?
$40
Sweet. A lot of loggers emphasize quantity over quality and make lazy bucking decisions. I'm guilty of it on occasion. Never that bad. 😆
Awful pretty boards off that last log. Do ever say, screw the tie, and cut for grade?
Great video.
I absolutely do!! This one’s worth breaking down. The Face board exedes the cross tie price. So if I have a nice log and I’m taking it down and there’s no knots, I might just go for a 3 1/2”x (where the knots stop in width)”. But I also have to assume those boards will be good on the other side, which can get tricky once you get close to the heart😬 because if I make the board and knots appear…. Well I can’t go backwards, and I lost the tie and have to make lower quality boards🤦♂️ but once I taste the timber I’m in, I know whether or not can do that! It’s actually a hard balance to find on a whim
Last log had some fantastic boards come off. What are the clips in the end of the log made of?
Plastic. We use metal S Irons that we have to pull out
are the clips for identification or to prevent splits?@@Helmsburgsawmill
They’re to prevent spilts and checking. Believe it or not those little things work
When you are opening the face you always run the edger in the center. Is this just to make the slab easier to manage?
Yes! It goes through our grinder easier
Why not use carbide bits?
Did you have that thing unplugged when you were sharpening that blade mister ? 😂
Second person I have ever seen using a flat file sharpening a saw. Do you use a tool to put set on the teeth
I sure do! Grinders take too much off and don’t do as refined of a job. I can control exactly how I want that face with my file
Where you located bud? New England states?
South/Central Indiana!
@@HelmsburgsawmillHoosier!
Any reason for green ambient light?
What becomes with the slab wood and saw dust?
The edger strips get ground and sold and we have a big sawdust been and we sell that too. I’ll do a video on it here at some point
Forgot to ask; why don't you use carbide bits?
Honestly I prefer filing to grinding the teeth. With the chrome plated you just have to grind them once. The chromes last longer than just the regular. I know the carbides last longer between sharpenings. But I feel I can personally get a saw tooth sharper with a file vs a grinder. And it takes me 1/4 of the time to use a file. And if you know how to use that file, I feel the sawyer can get a tooth sharp while taking less off with a file and can make them last longer that way.
@@Helmsburgsawmill You should really try carbide teeth. We run 75 to 100 thousand feet between sharpening, saves so much time.
What are your saw kerfs with carbide?
I don't use carbide blades.....................2 expensive. The kerf on most band sawmills is just under 1/8".
I enjoy your videos.
Dave
Thank you Dave, I was wondering because I have some carbide teeth and they’re over 1/8 of inch wider than my chrome plated teeth. Certain people keep saying use carbide. With how much we saw, we can’t lose that 1/8th inch.
Do the cants go to resaw,
Yes they do! Not at our facility, but our buyers do, who our the one’s manufacturing the pallets
A 'singing' flat file. Just what the (saw) doctor ordered - NOT!