Really good job on the installation. I'm wondering if something like Loctite Threadlocker should have been added to the threads first, given the vibration and movement of the unit.
installed today , i would add that make sure the rods are pointed in correct direction prior to installing, lower to passenger side top of propeller to drivers side becomes self evident when you mess this up like i did, also drivers side rod and bracket end did not sit parallel to axle bracket and when tightened down was distorting the poly bushing, still trying to determine why
im installing one on my 2014 GT. in your video the sway bar is behind the main bracket. mine is rubbing directly under the bracket with zero clearance. does fitment differ from gt500 to gt? im on stock sway bar. it looks like the GT500 had stock sway bar as well.
Bill this question is specifically for you. Would you go for watts or adjustable panhard bar if you were looking for the best performance? I'm a daily driver and sometimes I drag my gt with some friends for fun.
6 years later but what the heck... adj panhard is WAAY easier and cheaper to install (and adjust, especially if you get one that doesn't need removal of one end to do)... For what you're describing doing with the car, I don't think you'd even know the difference between the two in handling. Panhard really doesn't arc too far as it's pretty long, and if you have stiff suspension tit won't travel a whole lot either. The issue gets worse more towards the ends of travel (when the bar isn't parallel to the ground). Just my 2 c
Hey bill i have a 2013 Mustang 5.0 I have installed On my rear suspension varios parts and front as well. 1. RTR adjustable panhard bar 2. Whiteline panhard bar brace 3. SVE lowering springs 4. Steeda G-trac bar 5. Oem strut tower brace 6. Bmr rear lower control arms 7. Bmr relocation brackets 8. Bmr upper adjustable control arm and bmr chassis mount upgrade 9. Shelby rear shock tower brace 10. Swarr automotive rear support brace Is this a decent suspension setup in your opinion? Car feels very solid and planted Running 305 tires on the rear wheels Amr charcoal 20x10
I currently have the same finned gt500 diff cover as shown on this project car.. I’m looking at upgrading to the ford racing diff cover which is considerably a bit larger. Also gonna be very hard to squeeze a giant watts link in behind by the looks of it.. I’d go with the shelby unit, the blue matches the rest of my upgrades.
why does shelby wheel company say 2005-2014 might need a watts link to run their 19x11 wheel? just because the axle moves over a little on bumps? Note: 19 x 11 wheel designed for rear application and may requirer a Watts Link for 2005-2014 Mustang Note: Purchase of aftermarket lug nuts required. The stock lug nuts will not work.
lol i would love to know that for my 2013 Shelby i have seen some that go in front as well if you have this car you will understand that you do need something to help you hook up i did put 305 in the rear but not cutting the mustard
I have this Watts link and I question the design decision of putting the grease fitting where it is in the center pivot shown at 11:36. You CAN NOT grease the center pivot once it's mounted. The instructions tell you to grease again after a few hundred miles and then after every other oil change. There is no way to get a grease gun on the zerk fitting with the center pivot installed because the reinforcement bracket is in the way. You'd have to remove the center pivot to grease it. What a pain!
+MarcusK408 Can't you just take the two enlinks off rotate the center then grease it like they did? Sure its probably an extra ten minutes to have to remove and reinstall those but I don't think you have to remove the whole thing.
I found a way to grease the zerk fitting in the center pivot. I bought a grease coupler fitting and shaved down one side so it fits up into the center pivot to attach to the zerk fitting. Worked like a charm. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000G76OMA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
+Auto Young The Watts Link would be setup at your driving height which we did here. Since it moves with the rear it will still work at different heights, just not as well. We can put this car all the way down and it barely touches the exhaust.
I spoke with bmr before i ordered mine and was told it would move with the the air ride better than a panhard bar that moves your axle putting air ride on tonight watts link is on the way
Don't you think that if watts link was better and easier to adjust, NASCAR would be using it. they use a panhard bar. With panhard you can get the roll center lower- Mayer racing has a great video on the subject
If you decide to use the watts link, its "best" to have roll control center link directly bolted to the back of the third member. KISS and less moving parts with easier adjust ability I would stick with the panhard bar. I don't have a horse in the race just sharing what "I know". Enjoy the drive.
Incorrect on both assumptions. been driving A/C Cobra and GT 350 from about 1968. I use to think IRS was by "far" the only way to go. Had the Fays2 Watts link in my 1964 fairlane. Been there done that. Now the 60's classic's are pushing 6-700 hp the toe out on acceleration gets crazy scary with IRS unless your purpose engineered and built and light like F1. Refer to IRS vs live axle Willow Springs GT 350. yeah I know that it is not the whole story but its a start to begin asking questions. center steer (truck arm) with a panhard like NASCAR is by far the best bang for the buck if you want to stop fast and go fast. Again- I ain't sellin" anything.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #30 ДВА В ОДНОМ [Один человек]• Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nrXy15orKhY/mqdefault.jpg)
This is going to be a must and it's not priced as bad as I thought it might be.
Really good job on the installation. I'm wondering if something like Loctite Threadlocker should have been added to the threads first, given the vibration and movement of the unit.
+astrogen1960 Almost all of the nuts had nylon inserts so I don't think there will be an issues.
Thanks' Bill!
This is a great installation guide! Thanks guys!
Nice installation sure solved some ideas in my head
installed today , i would add that make sure the rods are pointed in correct direction prior to installing, lower to passenger side top of propeller to drivers side becomes self evident when you mess this up like i did, also drivers side rod and bracket end did not sit parallel to axle bracket and when tightened down was distorting the poly bushing, still trying to determine why
Excellent quality video and product,
Question Bill, Does BMR make a watts link kit for SN-95 stangs?
is this better than the other Watts link that replaces the dif. cover? this one seems easier but how does the performance change?
im installing one on my 2014 GT. in your video the sway bar is behind the main bracket. mine is rubbing directly under the bracket with zero clearance. does fitment differ from gt500 to gt? im on stock sway bar. it looks like the GT500 had stock sway bar as well.
Bill this question is specifically for you.
Would you go for watts or adjustable panhard bar if you were looking for the best performance?
I'm a daily driver and sometimes I drag my gt with some friends for fun.
6 years later but what the heck...
adj panhard is WAAY easier and cheaper to install (and adjust, especially if you get one that doesn't need removal of one end to do)... For what you're describing doing with the car, I don't think you'd even know the difference between the two in handling. Panhard really doesn't arc too far as it's pretty long, and if you have stiff suspension tit won't travel a whole lot either. The issue gets worse more towards the ends of travel (when the bar isn't parallel to the ground). Just my 2 c
Cool vídeos. If only you got rid of the crap metal track...
Hey bill i have a 2013 Mustang 5.0
I have installed On my rear suspension varios parts and front as well.
1. RTR adjustable panhard bar
2. Whiteline panhard bar brace
3. SVE lowering springs
4. Steeda G-trac bar
5. Oem strut tower brace
6. Bmr rear lower control arms
7. Bmr relocation brackets
8. Bmr upper adjustable control arm and bmr chassis mount upgrade
9. Shelby rear shock tower brace
10. Swarr automotive rear support brace
Is this a decent suspension setup in your opinion?
Car feels very solid and planted
Running 305 tires on the rear wheels
Amr charcoal 20x10
+61484 Yes it looks like a decent combination
+Bill Tumas thanks bill, I ordered me a shift knob and retainer boot
Rally 2 with black & dark blue its gonna look awsome
+Bill Tumas from cj site
Excellent video! Very informative.
Thank you!
omG solid axel on mustang from 2000's.
Does the link get in the way of the axle cover removal?
I have a question, how much clearance do you have from the rear cover? I have seen them hit the cover and damage them.
No issues at all, it it is still on the car.
I currently have the same finned gt500 diff cover as shown on this project car.. I’m looking at upgrading to the ford racing diff cover which is considerably a bit larger. Also gonna be very hard to squeeze a giant watts link in behind by the looks of it.. I’d go with the shelby unit, the blue matches the rest of my upgrades.
All good stuff till the bolts were torqued by the head. Generally always torque by the nut unless specified.
So when you set to 90* it doesn’t have to be at ride hight?
why does shelby wheel company say 2005-2014 might need a watts link to run their 19x11 wheel? just because the axle moves over a little on bumps? Note: 19 x 11 wheel designed for rear application and may requirer a Watts Link for 2005-2014 Mustang
Note: Purchase of aftermarket lug nuts required. The stock lug nuts will not work.
This vs. Whiteline?
How well would the car behave on rough PA roads compared to the traditional PHB/ Support brace?
i would love to get this but how much is all that and how can i get it for my 2013 shelby gt500?
lol i would love to know that for my 2013 Shelby i have seen some that go in front as well if you have this car you will understand that you do need something to help you hook up i did put 305 in the rear but not cutting the mustard
Will this be compatible with BMR Anti-roll bar kit?
Would these work with meaty slicks and still have clearance
I have this Watts link and I question the design decision of putting the grease fitting where it is in the center pivot shown at 11:36. You CAN NOT grease the center pivot once it's mounted. The instructions tell you to grease again after a few hundred miles and then after every other oil change. There is no way to get a grease gun on the zerk fitting with the center pivot installed because the reinforcement bracket is in the way. You'd have to remove the center pivot to grease it. What a pain!
+MarcusK408 Can't you just take the two enlinks off rotate the center then grease it like they did? Sure its probably an extra ten minutes to have to remove and reinstall those but I don't think you have to remove the whole thing.
I found a way to grease the zerk fitting in the center pivot. I bought a grease coupler fitting and shaved down one side so it fits up into the center pivot to attach to the zerk fitting. Worked like a charm. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000G76OMA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
How much difference did the watts link make in daily and spirited street driving?
seems overly complicated compared to the whiteline watts link.
Being that this car has air suspension what effect would that have on the Watts Link at different drive able height increments?
+Auto Young The Watts Link would be setup at your driving height which we did here. Since it moves with the rear it will still work at different heights, just not as well. We can put this car all the way down and it barely touches the exhaust.
I spoke with bmr before i ordered mine and was told it would move with the the air ride better than a panhard bar that moves your axle putting air ride on tonight watts link is on the way
Amazing
Does this replace the UCA?
looks like a decent product for a decent price. now if only my 93 rx7 suspension parts were of the same quality and price #domestic envy
Hey bill, can this watts link be used with the bmr lower control arms and relocation brackets?
+61484 - I have this Watts link. You can use it with any lower control arms. I also have the BMR relocation brackets.
MarcusK408 cool
How heavy is the kit
Don't you think that if watts link was better and easier to adjust,
NASCAR would be using it. they use a panhard bar. With panhard you can
get the roll center lower- Mayer racing has a great video on the
subject
Michael Hoffman it depends on what type of driving you are doing.
If you decide to use the watts link, its "best" to have roll control center link directly bolted to the back of the third member. KISS and less moving parts with easier adjust ability I would stick with the panhard bar. I don't have a horse in the race just sharing what "I know". Enjoy the drive.
Michael Hoffman I can tell you are not into road racing.
I've had this mod for 2 years now and it's about as close as the s197 will get to IRS.
Incorrect on both assumptions. been driving A/C Cobra and GT 350 from about 1968. I use to think IRS was by "far" the only way to go. Had the Fays2 Watts link in my 1964 fairlane. Been there done that. Now the 60's classic's are pushing 6-700 hp the toe out on acceleration gets crazy scary with IRS unless your purpose engineered and built and light like F1. Refer to IRS vs live axle Willow Springs GT 350. yeah I know that it is not the whole story but its a start to begin asking questions. center steer (truck arm) with a panhard like NASCAR is by far the best bang for the buck if you want to stop fast and go fast. Again- I ain't sellin" anything.
I come for the music! 🤭
great videos great channel , worse music and load.
music drives me nuts.
pesen ini diindonesia ada
Turn the fucking music off!
that looks trick