Thanks, not a particularly easy job. I'll look at your videos. I'm also doing a video on putting a new CV joint rubber boot on so be sure to check that one out when I release it :-)
Have you considered buying an impact wrench? I have a Milwaukee 1/2 high torque, it was expensive with batteries etc but it has paid for itself and made my life so much easier.
I have thought about one, but not sure about the torque of those battery ones. I'm on makita so will have a look if there is something comparable. Milwaukee are the best tool though :-)
My Milwaukeee has an unfastening force of 1946 nm, there hasn't been anything it failed on yet. Old age you see, I can't put as much force through a breaker bar or scaffold tube now. It lasts well with a 5ah battery.@@HatBoyHarvey
Great video, is it exactly the same price the other side and are the the same part both sides or different? I also read somewhere that one side was harder than the other and involved dropping the transfer box?
Sorry don't know about 4wheel drive versions, maybe because things can get a bit tight down in there. Drivers side is slightly harder to lower the subframe if you don't release the steering arm.
@@HatBoyHarvey Yep cheers.. I have a 2008 2.2d and its making 3 different noises from the front , not even constantly so I cant trace them ,, reckon it bushings for two and the undertray slapping against the underneath is the 3rd lol Cheers again for your time recording these videos
Hi harvey.. just got a skoda but when i turn the engine off and the keys out the milage and clock stays on on the diameter … is that normal or will it kill my battery ?? Its a 1.4 fabia tdi Any help much appreciated Cheers 😊
Mine goes out when the ignition is off and keys out, but I'm not sure if this is the norm on all models, if your battery is running down overnight then I would investigate further. There is a small amount of current draw on my display unit even when the lcd is off.
With the state of the car as it is with all that rust I would have ought all the parts and took the sub frame out , dismantled and refitted what you cam on the frame (weight permitting) and then jack up frame loose and fit rest. With the parts as rusty as they are you know they're gonna be a later problem. This way you can de-rust all of it and have a brand new front running gear. But I understand to show how individual parts are replaced for viewing you need to do it this way. The rear subframe assemblies are more straight forward but can be troublesome also.
Yes I agree with you, these seem to rust a bit more than other cars and I could have taken, as you say the complete subframe out and sort it, but not everyone could do that easily. I try to show work that can be done with relative basic tools and complexity to give confidence to ordinary guys just wanting to fix their car. I've completely renovated the underbody on this car now and welded the skills, but may take the rear subframe off next year to properly renovate that :-)
Hey Harvey,
I appreciate all these videos, you've saved me a lot of money on my old skoda fabia 1.4
Thanks, great to hear that, may your fabia continue a long life :-)
A very detailed video, well-done. I've also filmed some tips about an X-type CV joint, but you video is even more helpful! Thumb up!
Thanks, not a particularly easy job. I'll look at your videos. I'm also doing a video on putting a new CV joint rubber boot on so be sure to check that one out when I release it :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey Yes, sure!
Have you considered buying an impact wrench? I have a Milwaukee 1/2 high torque, it was expensive with batteries etc but it has paid for itself and made my life so much easier.
I have thought about one, but not sure about the torque of those battery ones. I'm on makita so will have a look if there is something comparable. Milwaukee are the best tool though :-)
My Milwaukeee has an unfastening force of 1946 nm, there hasn't been anything it failed on yet. Old age you see, I can't put as much force through a breaker bar or scaffold tube now. It lasts well with a 5ah battery.@@HatBoyHarvey
Thanks, I'll have a look
Bonjour 😊
Great video, is it exactly the same price the other side and are the the same part both sides or different? I also read somewhere that one side was harder than the other and involved dropping the transfer box?
*process
Sorry don't know about 4wheel drive versions, maybe because things can get a bit tight down in there. Drivers side is slightly harder to lower the subframe if you don't release the steering arm.
Excellent video , what was the symptoms that make you do this ?
Broken spring (if talking about the, Jag video)
@@HatBoyHarvey Yep cheers.. I have a 2008 2.2d and its making 3 different noises from the front , not even constantly so I cant trace them ,, reckon it bushings for two and the undertray slapping against the underneath is the 3rd lol
Cheers again for your time recording these videos
Hi harvey.. just got a skoda but when i turn the engine off and the keys out the milage and clock stays on on the diameter … is that normal or will it kill my battery ?? Its a 1.4 fabia tdi
Any help much appreciated
Cheers 😊
Mine goes out when the ignition is off and keys out, but I'm not sure if this is the norm on all models, if your battery is running down overnight then I would investigate further. There is a small amount of current draw on my display unit even when the lcd is off.
With the state of the car as it is with all that rust I would have ought all the parts and took the sub frame out , dismantled and refitted what you cam on the frame (weight permitting) and then jack up frame loose and fit rest. With the parts as rusty as they are you know they're gonna be a later problem. This way you can de-rust all of it and have a brand new front running gear. But I understand to show how individual parts are replaced for viewing you need to do it this way. The rear subframe assemblies are more straight forward but can be troublesome also.
Yes I agree with you, these seem to rust a bit more than other cars and I could have taken, as you say the complete subframe out and sort it, but not everyone could do that easily. I try to show work that can be done with relative basic tools and complexity to give confidence to ordinary guys just wanting to fix their car. I've completely renovated the underbody on this car now and welded the skills, but may take the rear subframe off next year to properly renovate that :-)