How to replace a CV boot with the over-the-joint method
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- Опубліковано 7 січ 2016
- How to easily replace a CV boot without dismantling the joint, using a cone tool and an universal CV boot. All stages step by step.
This video does not constitute or replace a real specialized technical manual, and was only made for convenience and educational purposes. "TutoBuild Eng" makes no warranties of any kind and accepts no liability. "TutoBuild Eng" cannot be held responsible for any damage caused to devices or persons using information contained in this video. The use of the information contained in this video is at your own risk. - Авто та транспорт
Im a mechanic 25 years and ive never seen so much aggro doing a cv boot,ive used methods like this before and the cv boots are rubbish,itll be burst again in less than a year,just do the job correctly and use the proper boots,job done!!!
Haven’t seen this much “NOPE!” in any one UA-cam video in quite a while. Thank you.
If you take a bigger cone, then there’s no need to remove a wheel!
😂 😂 😂 😂 O
I haven't laughed so hard in years 😂😂😂
It’s funnier if you say it in a female robotic voice!
Lmao
😂
Take it steady on the guy he’s having a go with what tools he has and he did it job sorted so what’s wrong with that
pro tip! You can remove the clamps by turning the wheel so you can see the connection point for the clamps, then you can just pinch it with a tang :D
OMG!! I got aggravated just watching this. All that work. And “special” tool. Cut the old off. Pull the retainer clip take cv apart. Clean it up put new boot on put back together. Done! Bad simply bad idea!
not being a smart ass but sometimes you cannot get the cv joint off the axel. Ive had a lot of them lately and you can beat it till the cows come home and they will not come. I just replace the axel
I agree. This is the most retarded way of doing a cv boot. Absolute mongaloid way of going on.
Greg Cobert The joint itself pulls right apart. No need to beat anything.
Scotty would be so proud!
This looks handy, BUT only in case this is your only option. Personally, i will always prefer to remove the CV joint and replace the boot this way - it is cleaner and does no require all that lubrication. Plus, you can inspect the CV joint itself. Overall, it looks like you know what you are doing - using the torque wrench, using thread lock, etc. but that cone should be a plan B type of action. :)
Right my 56 year old finger just won’t work like that. Much easier to just separate it.
I don't like this procedure. Why not clean old grease on CV joint and put new again?
Back when I worked in a transmission shop we did 4 transmissions a day fwd mostly that's 8 times in and out with the boss yelling hurry hurrrrrryyyy all dam day at me lmao so whole transmission R.R about half hour In and out on a lift so huge difference in a lift and yes take the cv out to work on it twice as fast sometimes it's just faster to take them out my old boss would have beaten me for this kind of work
I know this is older, but I just found it. This is a really excellent video! Thank you!
Thanks;
Very good ,
Except you don't
have to remove the
brake caliper at all .
LOTS EASIER TO PULL THE AXLE, PULL THE JOINT OFF THE SPLINES, CLEAN AND INSPECT, PUT NEW BOOT ON SHAFT, REINSTALL JOINT, REINSTALL AXLE. THE WAY SHOWN GAURANTEES THERE WILL BE CONTAMINANTS INSIDE THE BOOT.
Thanks. It works. It's cheaper and takes less time and difficulties than replacing the whole driveaxle or taking off the joint. I wish the boot rubber could be strong and last long enough. Really helpful.
It takes 10 secs to knock the CV Joint off the Shaft to easily replace the Boot, no need for all this nonsense when you've gone so far as removed almost the whole thing anyway. Silly Video.
OMG, the hole in the cv boot at 7:34 :O
I don't think that was a hole I think it was just some grease, I hope so anyways.
You can pretty clearly see that the surface in the hole isn't moving, and is 99.999% likely to be the CV boot tool. As soon as he started stretching that thing I said "NOPE. NOT DOING THAT."
Holy crap. You can hear it tearing too. That is a hole, you can see it expanding a few seconds before he turns it around. On top of this I don't see them cleaning off some of the old grease. If there is any dirt or debris in the axle then you're gonna have to replace the axle in the near future. I personally can't recommend this method. It's a cutting-corners method. Sometimes its best to take the extra time and do things the right way.
Yup. Definite hole. You can see it actually come around from the left at 7:33. This guys a dumb ass. The boot was reversing it'self as he pushed it off. There was no need to insist that it go onto the axle inside out. If he'd have changed his gloves, wiped the oil off the boot, and applies slow and steady pressure, it would have come off on the axle already right side out.
its like prom night all over again
Dang glad I’m going with the easy split boot they make now days 👍
Not in the UK your not,they are illegal over here.☹️
split boots used here for yrs... they DO work but the reason for all the comments about failure result from contamination of the seams while people are putting it in place ..this leads to early failure as it lets go in the spot if the tiniest bit of oil or grease are present in the seam... trick for lasting results is to have the area Hospital clean and drape clean rags or use newspaper over and around Anything that could possiblly come into contact with the open seams that are already coated with thge glue and ready to be joined..The prep is the hardest part! the other factor for sucess is proper application of the glue and correctly seating the seam.. do trial runs without glue so u know how it goes together..once the glue is applied, ur gonna get One chance to press it together!...u cant pull it apart and try again...alot of factors make this tedious and nerve wracking to do but it Can work and hold up great.
People, people, the man is demonstrating how to use the cone tool. Here's a suggestion. Do reversal of boot once it's on the tool before putting it over the cv joint. Once expanded small end goes over the cv joint you install the retaining metal clamps or use big wire ties instead and trim as necessary.
Thanks for your sharing knowledge!
I like the way she says “drib shaft” and the straightforward removal of the first oetiker clamp...
On my car it was cheaper to just replace the whole axel than buy two replacement boots. But it is also easy to separate at the second joint and slide both boots on, assuming you can get the right parts.
Yeah I just did my axle instead of replacing the boot.. Inner boot = $26, Outer boot = $22. Whole Axle = $68.. Idk how long it has been running with the busted boot and being in rust belt, I did not feel like $48 fix (rebooting) was worth the $20 saving over just replacing the axle all together..
I've replaced the driver side axle 3 times and they all vibrate like the cv joints are bad. I replaced the oem part, not because it was bad or vibrating, but because I had the new part when the rest of the suspension was rebuilt. Now, I want to put the OEM unit back in with new grease and boots. At least it was not vibrating.
@@hemizon1I'm doing the same. Putting my original axle back with the new boot. These cheap Chinese made crap are crap.
thanks for the info...thanks for shared knowledge.... its a blessing... God bless
Nice video, always wondered how that 'cone' worked.....
😂 I was half expecting Homer Simpson to walk up shouting "CRUSTY WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU DOING TO MY CAR"??? Doh
that worked great
I’ve done these dozens of times using stretch boots, takes about 20 minutes. I use a towel to grip the boot and slide it up the cone. Some cars it’s easier to unclip the joint sometimes you can undo the bottom ball joint, spread the clip and slide the joint off still in the hub and slip the new boot in. There’s always a manufacturer method and then there’s the mechanics method which takes half the time. And a couple of times I did old cavaliers that I could just spread the clip and the shaft slipped back enough to get a boot in, took a few minutes. But not all cavaliers had that amount of slop. Some, like the volvos had the joint glued into the hub and good luck getting those out . Even used sticky boots with the glue seam. Done properly they last well enough. Just need to wrap everything in cling film to stop grease spoiling the glueing operation.
i disagree, there is the factory way and then there is the shady mechanic way. if the boot is torn water and dirt has gotten in. the grease is probably tan looking. the shaft should be pulled and cleaned/disassembled. There are no short cuts in automotive repair. the generic boots are thinner than OEM boots so they can stretch........so do it right the first time OR do it again/ CV joint failure later on.
lol... I don't think that CV boot is supposed to stretch that much! Note the HOLE at 7:36 !!! LOL!
Paul Gibbons that’s no hole
@@LuxxyHD Yes! at 7:32 you just see the top edge of the white label through the hole as it spins around. Looks like it got torn on edge of the control arm when he put his foot on the cone and pressed everything on the arm then kept forcing the boot
Just a few extra tips.
Hitting the ball joint side usually works. Never hit the ball joint stud without the nut at its end with light taps & only if you have to. Clamp type separators are better than "pickle" forks but can also cut the boot. Most can be pushed down with your thumbs. Clean axle splines w/a high rpm wire wheel & grease. It'll go back thru the hub easier.
This is painful to watch. Do you always do things so complicated?
Kenji Brian Kitagawa yes is good way to rip new boot cover!!
Easier just to replace the whole axle.
I'm not doing all that just change the c.v shaft. I changed my c.v shaft without jacking up my truck.
@@onewhoknowsrevenge6807 agreed. gotta take all that shit apart anyways.....
@@onewhoknowsrevenge6807 depends what kind of car is. You know some car will leak gear oil if you remove the driveshaft. And there are special boots for the insert over and cost 7$...wich you can use with a pneumatic tool wich cost 100$ (or this cone).
I didn't even know this was an option, great! And the cone is fearly cheap also (around 18€) i will try this!
If it ain't broke, this channel will "fix it" until it is.
Making really hard work of this
Omg....You deflower that cv boot.lol
This is a great and simple way to remove and replace a cv boot. Thanks for the video.
Not really, all he had to do was take 10 secs to knock off the CV joint, Boot slips on, done....
Well documented and very helpful. Thought of replacing entire drive shaft but only the boots are cracked. Where can we buy this tool? I didn't know it would stretch that much. Like delivering a baby.
Only flimsy universal boots will stretch this much. I got a normal boot and this tool and it didn't work.
It doesn't look like an easy job.
I couldn't get the steering rack out of the disc brake.
Steering joint.
Thank you SSOOOOOOOOO MUCH!
Great video. Thank you.
Ótimo serviço
Thank goodness there are easier methods
Nice video! Next time I'd put antisieze on the shaft and the threads to the nut shaft . Bravo
Great video! Nice steady camera and bright lighting. The voice-over is a nice touch and it sounds very professional-like. The use of the lubricant and brush in the pail is a neat and useful tip. Thank you!
Yeah but "drift shaft"? Ffs
can you reuse the 6 inner flange bolts, the ones that secure the cv axle to the differential, or they have to be changed every time? I have a cv axle to replace tomorrow.
Thanks for the video ❤
You made that look like hard work, I'd rather take the cv joint off the shaft because for me its the easier way.
Totally agree, knock off the cv joint and put on a proper boot, job done!
Excellent video
Great video, no waffle either, say only what's needed. Thank you. Maybe use cleaner on the axle shaft and head before start the job so all that road dirt build up doesn't go inside with the grease. Also since the axle flops around as still on the inner knuckle, and both sides need new boots, it's almost worth making a bracket to hold tight the axle while fitting the oily new boot.
I've just paid £90 to get my CV boot replaced for a MOT failure. Thought I'd been ripped off until I seen you do it. Now I'm happy I paid the £90. Sack that shit... lol
Fair price, you aint been ripped off.
Great video
This is awesome
Good video, but you forgot to torque the wheel bolts.
Watching this just aged me 10 years..
I had to stop watching it and went straight for the cmments....lol
Does it matter if the axle is for AWD if my Roque is front wheel drive?
I wish i could show this person the easiest way how to installed the cv boot on without that much mess..
well why dont you? its been 2 years, surely your pro by now? come on, the OP surely has read your post and is waiting very patiently for you to show the easiest way without that much mess
i use glue together types.so simple and quick and they last years
Reminds me when I got the wrong box of condoms
Yike
Bobby Urkevich yea like the medium sized that slip right off
Lmao!😂
Ask for rubber bands next time 🤔
very good!
Very good job
If the outer joint won't separate and the inner is in good condition it may in some circumstances be worthwhile using this method which also would negate having to disturb the transmission seal (if the car has one) however you should clean out the joint as much as possible before repacking and when lubing the cone use the CV grease not engine oil.
I do outer boots still on the car, I'm just careful to not pull the shaft while I tap off the joint, a mate or maul grips and cable ties usually work!
You can get split CV boots now which glue together, they make sense (although I wouldn't personally install one a non mechanic without specialist tools could use one which is cool) but this, as he's cracked the ball joints anyway I don't get why he wouldn't just pull the joint and clean the greese, inspect the snap ring and all that, this is madness in my eyes......
which one is responsible for oil leak, is it the outter or innner?
@@N.Looping Inner seal has gone if it leaks oil , check transmission oil .
Great 👍 I did it very easy thnx
One time my wife's car cb boot looked like that I packed it with grease wrapped it up with duck tape and it lasted for another 5yrs🤣
Is there any sound after modify????
@@harishchowdary20 no clicking after I put grease and sealed it with the duck tape
Ok, first of all, why are you using those gloves? Use disposable and change them once your hands get too greasy. Secondly, Dude, you struggled needlessly getting it off the cone if you have just let it reverse it'self as you pushed it off, it would have saved you a step.
I use kevlar gloves like that every day at work they are fine
This takes longer than doing it the right way.
very good
I like the idea but am a quick guy just get a complete cv axcle and install in seconds lol 😆 😉 😂 😜 good work pal will try it out
Since those boots are made of a thinner stretchier material. does that mean they won't last as long?
Having already removed the wheel, the brakes disc and pads, the steering joints etc it would be far easier to completely remove the shaft, as you have done most of the work. But If you wanted an easy method, a split boot is far easier and quicker as well as less damaging for the new boot.
Not a big fan of split boots but if I could find one for my vehicle I'd give it a try! Split Boot video - ua-cam.com/video/iLrGNU_t83Y/v-deo.html
@@eltonnoway5692
I've fitted three so far, and if you take your time you and keep your hands clean it's a quick and easy job, that will last as long as a conventional boot.
Ive put 2 split boots. both failed after 1 year. glue stick ok, the rubber is crap.
@@jennychiltoon7130
Then you are not doing it correctly, it needs to very very clean and grease free.
Also, sometimes the inner joint (often a tripode) can be removed more easily, especially if hub attachment a super-complicated 4x4 Locking Assembly or Fully Floating Axle etc.
It took 3 1/2 days to do, by then I had replaced a motor in two cars lol. man you made it look so hard.
Hahaha
super!
Why is he breathing so heavily?
NICE PRETTY SIMPLE
Great education video. But I would have just replaced the whole driveshaft with new boots already installed.
$20 verse $200 plus in most vehicle cases.
good job
Please, can worn-out or bad inner cv joint cause ABS light on? I asked because immediately I changed the cv axle joint, I began to hear like cracking nose. Please, what could be the problem?
Nice vid but I would just replace the axle less mess and you won’t have to worry about it for a long time..thanks for sharing!!
Basketball Ave CV boots cost about $15 as opposed to $200 for a whole axle , its your money though waste it how you want
Nice video but I did this today with no cone. I just flipped the boot inside out and stretched over joints by hand. This was on a 2004 Celica. Did the inner boots without having to disassemble the whole knuckles/spindles.
I get the concept of using a pull over boot like this but it can’t be good on the boot to stretch way beyond its intended size. And if it’s that flimsy it probably won’t last very long.
I’ve see split boots that if done right look like they would be a better replacement.
thought he was making a flesh light for a minute
😂😂🤣🤣🤣
I was laughing at the comments until I saw the positive comments. Then I laughed harder.
Well...That escalated quickly....
Lo hizo hasta llorar 😢
the last time I did this, it was one set screw to remove the CV form the shaft, and didn't have to stretch the boot.
If this is not done correctly can it cause a n unusual smell to come from the wheel area after short trips?
Well it worked....
Any split boot options that work?
i think he mix dust n grease for get the over performance..tq
7:33 This video should be renamed. Replace split CV boot with another split CV boot.
Lot of work
Yeah baby! I've been fighting this for over 2 weeks. I have a '93 GMC Jimmy. Yes. I said '93. I bought this heap, used. Now, how many people drive the same vehicle for over 24 years? I decided to replace the spark plugs. BUT I can't get to the plugs on the driver side unless I remove the tire AND the inner fender. Brilliant engineering! While doing this, I noticed one of my CV boots was split and leaking grease. I thought that it was the inner boot. But after removing the tire and ball joints, I noticed that it was the outer boot that was split. I intended to replace both boots. This requires pulling the axle. But it finally dawned on me to get the split boot that I just wrap around the axle, and seal it with adhesive (from Rock Auto). Our local Car Quest doesn't have the split boot. I was not aware of the installation cone. Thanks. The inner boot is OK. I installed all four boots after I bought the Jimmy. That was in 1997, 24 years ago.
I decided to replace the upper and lower ball joints while doing this. My rust-bucket isn't clean as the one in the video. With all the grease on the larger end of the boot, I found that it slips off before I can clamp it.
I noticed that the lug nuts weren't torqued to specs. I tighten the hub nut by putting my weight on a 3/4" drive ratchet.
Very informative video. THANKS
I would have never believed this if I had not seen it. Hard to believe that that small inner hole could be stretched that far... I have changed the outer boot many times when i could not get the shaft out, I released the inside clip on the outer c/v joint and pulled it...
Can anyone explain how this saves any work? Is it because if you pull the axle out of the transmission fluid will leak?
thanks a lot -splendy idea...
I used a plastic kids horn from dollar stop as a conne it worked perfect
HE CREAMED THE GREASE SEAL WITH THE NOSE OF THE AXLE INSTALLING IT BACK IN THE WHEEL HUB.
Where do you get these over the joint boots? I can not find them anywhere in the us.
Christine Hammack Ebay
What happened to just using a brass hammer to just knock off the joint end and then sliding on the boot, much easier to many of us?
What's a driftshaft
My God, a Butt Plug for cars!
😂
How to change axle boot
Clusterfuck springs to mind!
Using a cone: Lubricate external of new boot. Slide small end over the cone. Push down to turn new boot inside out. Push larger end of boot that is inside out over drive shaft. Stretch the smaller end over the wide area of the cone? Will it stretch that much without tearing? Pull the wide end of boot back over the shaft, turning it outside out. I have the Car Quest outer boot. The smaller diameter WILL NOT stretch that much. I have both the inner and outer boots, but Car Quest has the same part number for both. For my "93 Jimmy, it is 85 1103. But one boot is longer than the other.
Did I miss something? This is not my first rodeo. I replaced both inner and outer boots for both sides after I bought the Jimmy in 1997 . I removed both axles to replace the boots. It seems that it wasn't that hard 24 years ago.
One vid mentioned that when gaiter/boot NOT of the stretchy type, a regular item can still be manipulated over the cone with the aid of pre-heating.
Hell yeah “Drift” shaft thats what i wana hear !
I would believe this boot is cheap something like plastic with some rubber mixture and how long it will last since my honda real boot seems impossible to stretch that much