I'd just like to say this is a great guide to replace the head gasket on a corsa 1.0. I followed it very carefully and this saved my sons car from the scrap heap. Thanks very much I wouldn't of had a clue where to start without this guide. I've done loads of work on cars over the years but this was my first head gasket.
I would like to say thank you very much this is a great guide of what I have learned. It is a shame that I didn't do the research to find this last year as I had to go to the garage to get them to do the work. If my head gasket goes again, I will do this myself and won't go to him ever again as he will rip me off. He have put some shit used parts behind the timing chain which it looks shit and awful. I will get them off when my timing chain goes as it won't be worth it if i am doing it now and then later my timing chain goes so it better to do it once at a time to save me some money. Anyway, thanks very much for this awesome guide, you should rename it to "Corsa head gasket removal and replacement 2003 1.0 3 cylinder engine" to help other people to find out how they can replace their head gasket. I wouldn't of had a clue where to start without this guide. Cheers!
Hi Aubrey. I've damaged a cam before by trying to turn the crank bolt after inserting the cam lock tool. The cam will break where the tool inserts. A better method is to put a socket and long bar on the crank nut and spin the engine on the starter with the bar against the subframe. There's a few videos on you tube showing how to do this under 'Undo crank bolt'. Best wishes Stu
Hi, As soon as you release the sprocket the tensioner will spring out and you wont be able to get the chain back on. Alas I think you'll need to remove the front cover, take the tensioner off and then replace the cam. The cam can only go on one way so as long as you put the bar in to lock the camshafts then the new one will be timed ok. Dont remove the inlet cam though as the timing disk is a pig to set back up. Best of luck Stu
Hi, can you tell thicko here when you say left and right cam could you change that to rear and front cam. Which is front and which is rear please looking from the front of the car towards the rear
Hi Further to your email, you need to remove the crank bolt (1:51) and remove the hub that the crank pulley bolted to. You wont be able to remove the front cover with this in place
Hi video very helpful although looks a bit daunting for me (someone with very little knowledge of engines apart from very simplistic basics). I was replacing spark plugs and never thought to let the engine cool down completely and broke the top half of a spark plug off while trying to remove it. Now there is no 'bolt head' to catch with a socket and the rest of the spark plug is still threaded(very tightly) into the head. Would you recommend removing the head or would it cost much to have someone else do it just in case worst comes to worst and I break something else!
Hi, There is a way to extract a snapped plug without removing the head but its a specialist job for a garage as they need to completely remove any metal fragments from inside the cylinders after drilling the plug. Plan B is to remove the head and use a stud-extractor. I'd tow it to a garage and ask them to take a look, it might be easier to get out than you think. Best wishes Stu
Hey man thanks for the advice but i contacted a friend and told him the problem he said to try a t50 or t55 torque and ram it in there and then screw it out and it worked thank god! He said the little swarf that gets in would be blown out the exhaust. Thanks for the reply though!
Morning Dale. Well you've definately got oil and water mixing and the head gasket is the prime suspect. I dont think that the 1.2 is the same layout as the 1.0, I think only the 1.0 is the 3 cylinder format with the front gasket so you only have the head gasket to change. Did you have other symptoms such as over-heating and white steam from the exhaust ? Stu
Hi Tony. Pleasure to help. ua-cam.com/video/O_6SFBg7_dg/v-deo.html is a great method how to remove the crank bolt, just be careful of flying spanners. Stu
Hi, If I remember right I did have to pull the timing cover off, however it wasnt that difficult to remove. Have you removed the air conditioning bolts (x3 to make sure), the alternator bolts and the two larger bolts that are just to the left of the air conditioning compressor (1:51) ? Let me know how you're getting on - Stu
Hi there, I own a 2006 Vauxhall Corsa C with the 998cc engine fitted. It has done 92,000 and is still in daily use, however it had to have a new head gasket in may, the old one had blown across two cylinders. Since having a replacement gasket, it has still been losing water, not quite as fast as when the gasket blew and the oil isn't getting water in it. However, the engine runs lump and occasionally mis-fires as the engine gets warm, short journeys are fine as the engine doesn't get hot enough. I have been informed that the head has cracked......deep joy! I would like to have the head replaced, but does that mean I have to have another new head gasket fitted? Don't really want to have another one, but I would imagine I probably would as the gasket fits onto the head, and a new one will be slightly different to the old one? I want to keep my Corsa on the road, as it is in immaculate condition, the high mileage does not reflect on the condition of the car, although it is nine years old, it looks as if I have just driven it away from the factory! Hope you might be able to give me a little advice! :-) Kind Regards, Adam (and Victor the Vauxhall Corsa)
Vintageaudiofan1992 Hi there. Alas yes, you're going to need a new gasket. As soon as you tighten the head down it distorts the gasket so you can only fit them once. Can I also strongly recommend that you fit the newer multi-layer steel gasket as its far more resilient. Search on ebay for Corsa 1.0 MLS head gasket, there are a few listed on there. Best of luck. Stu
I want to ask is it possible to remove the exhaust camshaft and replace with a new one by simply undoing the sproket bolt and making sure the new cam is placed back in the same position as the old one? Do I need to worry about timing anything? As everything is working fine (just a snap at the end of the exhaust cam- rest of camshaft is fine). So I need to place new camshaft back in the same place.
Hi Stuart, I'm doing a 2002 1.0 corsa head gasket and am at the stage of 1min58secs on your video (which is great by the way) but although the timing cover is loose, it won't actually come off. All bolts are out, nothing attached, crank bolt etc is off. Feels like it's still attached at the sump (front) as it only moves 1mm there, but moves 5or10mm at the rear and top. Don't want to use too much force, but I've had 2 or 3 hours stuck at this point! Grateful for any advice!
Hiya. I've had the same issue before. Have you got the sump bolts off, I think there are 4 which actually go through the sump. Have you unbolted the alternator and air-con pump (If fitted) as these also hold the front plate on. There are also a couple of larger bolts that are just to the right of the crank pulley that I've seen people forget before too. Feel free to send me some pics of the front cover to stuartadair@live.co.uk if you're still struggling and I'll take a look.
stuartadair yes 4 sump bolts are out, alternator is off, air-con pump is off, large bolts are out, water pump is off, crank bolt i s out. Have sent pics to you. Feels like there's a dowel across one of the front sump bolt holes? stopping it moving outwards (and dowels on the upper face stops it moving up)?
Hi, thx for the great video, relly helped me a lot. But how did you put your belt on? It takes a lot of pressure to squeze the spring of the tensioner... any tips?
Hi. Yep, the belts are quite tight to get on. If I recall correctly I used a spanner on the tensioner nut and used it as a lever to compress the spring. Best of luck,. Stu
Hi, Yeah it worked, thx... So i was trying to start the car and it won't start :( When i turn the key starter is just spinning and it won't ignite, but sometimes i hear backfires on the inlet when i push throttle. I was trying to find a cause... i removed airfilter from the inlet and it feels moist, feels like coolant, it doesnt smell like petrol. So i sprayed with brakecleaner in the inlet and trying to start and again nothing just some backfires. Then i removed sparkplugs and the pistons look a little wet. I guess i did a bad job replacing a cylinder head gasket? What do you think?
Hi. Did you mark the crank (2:12) before taking the timing chain off ? Did you align the cams (2:06). When you put the chain back did you keep the right hand side of the chain tight when you refitted (2:18)? Can you also confirm that you never undid the timing cog on the left hand cam (1:57) ? If you've got all those things right then it might be worth you running a compression test to make sure you've got the gasket fitted correctly. If you want to spray something to give it a kick then get some Bradex Easystart which is like rocket fuel. If the pistons look wet it could be fuel which is good. Pull a plug out and check that its sparking when you crank the engine as you might have missed a connector off somewhere. Let me know what you find.
Hi. Well in fact i did replaced my timing chain and all the cogs cause they all wear out, so probably the time cog is not on the good position? Sparkplugs work fine and i do have fuel in my cylinders, i have noticed... i had a flash when i was testing sparkplugs a ball off fire allmost hit my face :) anyway the coolant level is still the same and there was no coolant in the cylinders... So hopefully its just wrong timing? The tension of the chain is good and i started from the rh side just like you mentioned. How can i adjust timing cog?
HI, yep, it's almost certain that you haven't got the timing cog set up right in that case. Its the left hand side cog, nearest to the bulkhead. You're going to need a timing tool to set the cog up correctly which are available on ebay or at your local motor factor.
Hey, I've got a COrsa C (Z12XE) 1.2 Engine. Can this video be used for that engine also or are there some differences I might encounter? Great video btw!
+Heldhighissi Hi. You can follow all the same steps on the Z12XE engine as the engines are almost the same. Thank you for your kind words and best of luck with the job.
+stuartadair ANother question, since I'm considering also renewing the valve stem seal - do u think i need an engine support or can i support the engine with a car jack ?
I have the b10xft im gonna change headgasket soon but cant find no torque sequence or torque settings for the head but it looks similar to this engine would you know anything about it
+lee beech Hi Ian, sounds like an air leak. From memory there's a small thin vacuum pipe at the back of the manifold, just check that's not been damaged.
Hey mate, really need your help. My corsa 1.0l 12v engine had the head gasket replaced. Put together and now the middle cylinder fails compression test (40psi). The engine misfires big time. I could see bit of oil or water in the cylinder when i took off the spark plug. could it be the valve? or the timing chain?
Oh!! That's not good. I'm assuming that you've tightened the head down correctly and that everything was clean before reassembly, ie there wasn't any old gasket left to stop the new gasket sealing? Worst case is a warped cylinder head which will need replacing / repairing. However, before you rush off and spend money I'd try taking the head back off, clean everything with a wire brush on a drill and put it back together with a head-gasket sealant such as Red Hermatite. It'll cost you £4 to try this and if it doesn't work then I'm afraid you'll need to replace the head gasket again (As it'll be covered in sealant) and get the head skimmed. Best wishes
Vishal Arvinda Ok dont panic. Firstly did you mark the crank with Tippex before you dismantled it ? If so, turn it back so the marks align. If not, there is a large blanking plug with an allan key socket on the front of the block, under the exhaust manifold at the bottom of No1 cylinder. Remove this and insert a 17mm bar into the hole and you will be able to feel the recess in the crank when its in the right position. Next get a 6mm bar and inset it in the slots on the cams as per timing 2:06. Your only real issue comes if you've removed the nut and timing disk from the inlet cam. If you have then take a look at this website as there are some good pics of the correct position. Dont forget to put the chain on from the crank, anti-clockwise around the exhaust cam, inlet cam and the back down. Keep the chain tight on the exhaust manifold side so that tensioner takes up the slack on the inlet side.
stuartadair Also, dont forget to turn the engine a couple of times by hand before you put it back together. Make sure the chain is running freely and that it doesnt lock up. Best of luck and let me know how you get on
Vishal Arvinda Now we're in a difficult place because there are lots of reasons that you wouldn't get a spark. I'm assuming you've put all the connectors back on? If you had moved the timing disk then it would still spark, just at the wrong time and would backfire so its not that. Did you put the ECU plug back in ? That might explain why there's no fuel and spark.
Vishal Arvinda Hi Vishal, I'm struggling without being able to get my hands on the car. Try this though....Go to your local garage or Halfords and get some Bradex. Give it a squirt down the air intake whilst a colleague tries to start the engine. If it still shows no sign of firing then its definitely an issue with the ignition system. The things I've seen before are the ECU plugs not in, ECU earth strap missed off, timing wheel on the inlet cam moved, wires off. Sorry I cant be of more help and please let me know how you get on.
Hi, Sorry for the delay but I've been away. No I never lubricated the head bolts or had the head skimmed. In 30 years of changing head gaskets I can honestly say I've never had a head skimmed and if its been over heated I would use a sealant such as Red Hermotite or similar.
KINGCALLO Hi, take a look from 25 seconds and you can see the detail of a couple of the manifold bolts. There are 6 that are quite easy to get to, but they don't pull fully out of the manifold. Don't forget to unbolt the pipe at 33 seconds which is on the rear right hand side of the manifold (Viewed from the front) and prevents it from being pulled backwards even when all 6 bolts are undone. If your manifold is bolted on but when you push it back the engine stalls then you might have a cracked manifold.
Stuart Adair Thanks, When I push back against the carb and look down behind the engine i can see the mani block coming away and the gasket, I'm not trying to take it apart my car was stalling, and I noticed this might be the problem it seems to be missing the bolts on the right side.
KINGCALLO Yes, the missing bolt will be the issue. Its dragging in air past the manifold. Bit strange as the bolts have retainers on them and are difficult to get out at the best of times.
+Andy Andy Hi Andy. You'll need 2 tools for that job. Firstly a torque wrench that has NM (Newton Metres) on the scale and an angular torque gauge. Both are available at Halfords. Set the torque wrench to 50NM and tighten the bolts until the torque wrench clicks to signify that the bolt is to a certain tightness. Then put the angular torque gauge between the socket and torque wrench and rotate the wrench by a further 60 degrees. Its all to do with the fact that the Corsa uses stretch bolts on the cylinder head. Best wishes Stu
+ptsoldier Hi. If I've got my engines correct I think the Z10XE is a twinport and the X10XE is single port. They both look the same and the head removal process is the same, however the heads are not interchangeable due to a difference wiring setup back into the car and inlet manifold fitting.
hi friend. may be you can help me. How to correctly position cam positioning plate? I see a marked arrow but I do not know what its correct position is. I have disarmed this part in my 3 cylinder engine and I have serious problems. I expect an answer. Thank you
Hi Jose, If you've moved the timing disk (Shown at 1:59) then you'll need a timing setting tool to get it back in exactly the right place. If you search ebay for "Corsa timing setting tool" then there are plenty listed. Make sure you get the metal semi-circle tool in the set. The cut-out in the tool fits the timing disk on the cam. Best wishes Stu
Ok couple of things to try. 1. Fill the reservoir with water and leave the cap off. Start the engine. If water gushes out under pressure then you've got water still getting into the pistons. 2. Take heater pipe off and fill system from there. This will remove any airlocks 3. If thats ok, fill with water, take top hose off with thermostat out and see if water gushes out under pressure. If not then water pump. Email me your email address so I can give a longer response - stuart_adair@sky.com
the haynes manual says you need to remove the sprockets and chain sliding rail? what a load of shit that manual is.... p.s you forgot to mention the head bolt slackening sequence.
Rory McJannett I remember when Haynes made proper manuals. They might be talking about the chain guide (2:18) whatever you do dont remove the left side sprocket (Nearest to bulkhead) as the ignition timing works from that and its a pain to get right again. Your right, I omitted to mention the tightening sequence for the head but its written on the headgasket packaging. Good luck.
stuartadair yeah they say youve to take sprockets off in order to remove cylinder head...sorry mate you did kind of mention the slackening sequence 2:28 lol. however haynes manual says to work from the outside to the inside.. I havent removed the sprocket yet. just the disc position came loose. btw i had the cams locked with the bar. but i aligned the disc position again and tightened it.... thanks for your help !! I have the timing tool kit btw. So when removing the head I can leave the ssprockets on yeah?
I'd just like to say this is a great guide to replace the head gasket on a corsa 1.0.
I followed it very carefully and this saved my sons car from the scrap heap.
Thanks very much I wouldn't of had a clue where to start without this guide.
I've done loads of work on cars over the years but this was my first head gasket.
lee beech Thank you so much for your comment. Its a pleasure to be of assistance.
I would like to say thank you very much this is a great guide of what I have learned. It is a shame that I didn't do the research to find this last year as I had to go to the garage to get them to do the work. If my head gasket goes again, I will do this myself and won't go to him ever again as he will rip me off. He have put some shit used parts behind the timing chain which it looks shit and awful. I will get them off when my timing chain goes as it won't be worth it if i am doing it now and then later my timing chain goes so it better to do it once at a time to save me some money. Anyway, thanks very much for this awesome guide, you should rename it to "Corsa head gasket removal and replacement 2003 1.0 3 cylinder engine" to help other people to find out how they can replace their head gasket. I wouldn't of had a clue where to start without this guide. Cheers!
Treaz
Hi Aubrey. I've damaged a cam before by trying to turn the crank bolt after inserting the cam lock tool. The cam will break where the tool inserts. A better method is to put a socket and long bar on the crank nut and spin the engine on the starter with the bar against the subframe. There's a few videos on you tube showing how to do this under 'Undo crank bolt'. Best wishes Stu
Thanks very much. You're a star.
This saved me a lot of trouble
Thank you very much for this excellent tutorial! I am very impressed.
Hi, As soon as you release the sprocket the tensioner will spring out and you wont be able to get the chain back on. Alas I think you'll need to remove the front cover, take the tensioner off and then replace the cam. The cam can only go on one way so as long as you put the bar in to lock the camshafts then the new one will be timed ok. Dont remove the inlet cam though as the timing disk is a pig to set back up. Best of luck Stu
Hi, can you tell thicko here when you say left and right cam could you change that to rear and front cam. Which is front and which is rear please looking from the front of the car towards the rear
Hi
Further to your email, you need to remove the crank bolt (1:51) and remove the hub that the crank pulley bolted to. You wont be able to remove the front cover with this in place
You are the first i heard who didnt skimmed the head and it work. Can you tell me how you clean head and cylinder block before assembly?
Cheers mate - top job that - well done A++
Happy to help ☺
Thank you, legend!
Thank you for your kind words :-)
very helpful video bro. good job
You're very welcome. Stu :-)
Try the thermostat first. The water not circulating explains why the head gasket went,
Hi video very helpful although looks a bit daunting for me (someone with very little knowledge of engines apart from very simplistic basics). I was replacing spark plugs and never thought to let the engine cool down completely and broke the top half of a spark plug off while trying to remove it. Now there is no 'bolt head' to catch with a socket and the rest of the spark plug is still threaded(very tightly) into the head. Would you recommend removing the head or would it cost much to have someone else do it just in case worst comes to worst and I break something else!
Hi, There is a way to extract a snapped plug without removing the head but its a specialist job for a garage as they need to completely remove any metal fragments from inside the cylinders after drilling the plug. Plan B is to remove the head and use a stud-extractor. I'd tow it to a garage and ask them to take a look, it might be easier to get out than you think. Best wishes Stu
Hey man thanks for the advice but i contacted a friend and told him the problem he said to try a t50 or t55 torque and ram it in there and then screw it out and it worked thank god! He said the little swarf that gets in would be blown out the exhaust. Thanks for the reply though!
I wanna do this too. Thanks for the vid
Pleasure. Have a go and enjoy yourself
Have you also remembered the sump bolts. If I remember right there are 4 that go through the front cover ?
Morning Dale. Well you've definately got oil and water mixing and the head gasket is the prime suspect. I dont think that the 1.2 is the same layout as the 1.0, I think only the 1.0 is the 3 cylinder format with the front gasket so you only have the head gasket to change. Did you have other symptoms such as over-heating and white steam from the exhaust ? Stu
Thank you so much!
Hi Stuart. Firstly great video and a massive help. Could I ask if there is an alternative to using an airgun to undo the crank bolt?
Hi Tony. Pleasure to help. ua-cam.com/video/O_6SFBg7_dg/v-deo.html is a great method how to remove the crank bolt, just be careful of flying spanners. Stu
yes can u lock the cams and use that to hold the crank so u can shoot the crankshaft pully bolt or will i break the chain
Hi,
If I remember right I did have to pull the timing cover off, however it wasnt that difficult to remove. Have you removed the air conditioning bolts (x3 to make sure), the alternator bolts and the two larger bolts that are just to the left of the air conditioning compressor (1:51) ?
Let me know how you're getting on - Stu
Hi there, I own a 2006 Vauxhall Corsa C with the 998cc engine fitted. It has done 92,000 and is still in daily use, however it had to have a new head gasket in may, the old one had blown across two cylinders. Since having a replacement gasket, it has still been losing water, not quite as fast as when the gasket blew and the oil isn't getting water in it. However, the engine runs lump and occasionally mis-fires as the engine gets warm, short journeys are fine as the engine doesn't get hot enough. I have been informed that the head has cracked......deep joy! I would like to have the head replaced, but does that mean I have to have another new head gasket fitted? Don't really want to have another one, but I would imagine I probably would as the gasket fits onto the head, and a new one will be slightly different to the old one? I want to keep my Corsa on the road, as it is in immaculate condition, the high mileage does not reflect on the condition of the car, although it is nine years old, it looks as if I have just driven it away from the factory! Hope you might be able to give me a little advice! :-) Kind Regards, Adam (and Victor the Vauxhall Corsa)
Vintageaudiofan1992 Hi there. Alas yes, you're going to need a new gasket. As soon as you tighten the head down it distorts the gasket so you can only fit them once. Can I also strongly recommend that you fit the newer multi-layer steel gasket as its far more resilient. Search on ebay for Corsa 1.0 MLS head gasket, there are a few listed on there. Best of luck. Stu
I want to ask is it possible to remove the exhaust camshaft and replace with a new one by simply undoing the sproket bolt and making sure the new cam is placed back in the same position as the old one? Do I need to worry about timing anything? As everything is working fine (just a snap at the end of the exhaust cam- rest of camshaft is fine). So I need to place new camshaft back in the same place.
Hi Stuart, I'm doing a 2002 1.0 corsa head gasket and am at the stage of 1min58secs on your video (which is great by the way) but although the timing cover is loose, it won't actually come off. All bolts are out, nothing attached, crank bolt etc is off. Feels like it's still attached at the sump (front) as it only moves 1mm there, but moves 5or10mm at the rear and top. Don't want to use too much force, but I've had 2 or 3 hours stuck at this point! Grateful for any advice!
Hiya. I've had the same issue before. Have you got the sump bolts off, I think there are 4 which actually go through the sump. Have you unbolted the alternator and air-con pump (If fitted) as these also hold the front plate on. There are also a couple of larger bolts that are just to the right of the crank pulley that I've seen people forget before too. Feel free to send me some pics of the front cover to stuartadair@live.co.uk if you're still struggling and I'll take a look.
stuartadair yes 4 sump bolts are out, alternator is off, air-con pump is off, large bolts are out, water pump is off, crank bolt i s out. Have sent pics to you. Feels like there's a dowel across one of the front sump bolt holes? stopping it moving outwards (and dowels on the upper face stops it moving up)?
SpufiMan1 ok thanks. Will take a look at the pics when I get home. From memory there are 2 dowels. One bottom right and another top left.
SpufiMan1 ok thanks. Will take a look at the pics when I get home. From memory there are 2 dowels. One bottom right and another top left.
Hi, thx for the great video, relly helped me a lot. But how did you put your belt on? It takes a lot of pressure to squeze the spring of the tensioner... any tips?
Hi. Yep, the belts are quite tight to get on. If I recall correctly I used a spanner on the tensioner nut and used it as a lever to compress the spring. Best of luck,. Stu
Hi, Yeah it worked, thx... So i was trying to start the car and it won't start :( When i turn the key starter is just spinning and it won't ignite, but sometimes i hear backfires on the inlet when i push throttle. I was trying to find a cause... i removed airfilter from the inlet and it feels moist, feels like coolant, it doesnt smell like petrol. So i sprayed with brakecleaner in the inlet and trying to start and again nothing just some backfires. Then i removed sparkplugs and the pistons look a little wet. I guess i did a bad job replacing a cylinder head gasket? What do you think?
Hi. Did you mark the crank (2:12) before taking the timing chain off ? Did you align the cams (2:06). When you put the chain back did you keep the right hand side of the chain tight when you refitted (2:18)? Can you also confirm that you never undid the timing cog on the left hand cam (1:57) ? If you've got all those things right then it might be worth you running a compression test to make sure you've got the gasket fitted correctly. If you want to spray something to give it a kick then get some Bradex Easystart which is like rocket fuel. If the pistons look wet it could be fuel which is good. Pull a plug out and check that its sparking when you crank the engine as you might have missed a connector off somewhere. Let me know what you find.
Hi. Well in fact i did replaced my timing chain and all the cogs cause they all wear out, so probably the time cog is not on the good position? Sparkplugs work fine and i do have fuel in my cylinders, i have noticed... i had a flash when i was testing sparkplugs a ball off fire allmost hit my face :) anyway the coolant level is still the same and there was no coolant in the cylinders... So hopefully its just wrong timing? The tension of the chain is good and i started from the rh side just like you mentioned. How can i adjust timing cog?
HI, yep, it's almost certain that you haven't got the timing cog set up right in that case. Its the left hand side cog, nearest to the bulkhead. You're going to need a timing tool to set the cog up correctly which are available on ebay or at your local motor factor.
Hey, I've got a COrsa C (Z12XE) 1.2 Engine. Can this video be used for that engine also or are there some differences I might encounter? Great video btw!
+Heldhighissi Hi. You can follow all the same steps on the Z12XE engine as the engines are almost the same. Thank you for your kind words and best of luck with the job.
+stuartadair ANother question, since I'm considering also renewing the valve stem seal - do u think i need an engine support or can i support the engine with a car jack ?
I have the b10xft im gonna change headgasket soon but cant find no torque sequence or torque settings for the head but it looks similar to this engine would you know anything about it
Hi. When you but the head gasket the torque settings will usually be on the packaging. I believe it's 25Nm + 60° +60° +60°. Stu
After replacing the head gasket as illustrated the car start fine but the revs are pulsating any idea what this could be please
+lee beech Hi Ian, sounds like an air leak. From memory there's a small thin vacuum pipe at the back of the manifold, just check that's not been damaged.
Hey mate, really need your help. My corsa 1.0l 12v engine had the head gasket replaced. Put together and now the middle cylinder fails compression test (40psi). The engine misfires big time. I could see bit of oil or water in the cylinder when i took off the spark plug. could it be the valve? or the timing chain?
Oh!! That's not good. I'm assuming that you've tightened the head down correctly and that everything was clean before reassembly, ie there wasn't any old gasket left to stop the new gasket sealing? Worst case is a warped cylinder head which will need replacing / repairing. However, before you rush off and spend money I'd try taking the head back off, clean everything with a wire brush on a drill and put it back together with a head-gasket sealant such as Red Hermatite. It'll cost you £4 to try this and if it doesn't work then I'm afraid you'll need to replace the head gasket again (As it'll be covered in sealant) and get the head skimmed. Best wishes
Vishal Arvinda Ok dont panic. Firstly did you mark the crank with Tippex before you dismantled it ? If so, turn it back so the marks align. If not, there is a large blanking plug with an allan key socket on the front of the block, under the exhaust manifold at the bottom of No1 cylinder. Remove this and insert a 17mm bar into the hole and you will be able to feel the recess in the crank when its in the right position. Next get a 6mm bar and inset it in the slots on the cams as per timing 2:06. Your only real issue comes if you've removed the nut and timing disk from the inlet cam. If you have then take a look at this website as there are some good pics of the correct position. Dont forget to put the chain on from the crank, anti-clockwise around the exhaust cam, inlet cam and the back down. Keep the chain tight on the exhaust manifold side so that tensioner takes up the slack on the inlet side.
stuartadair Also, dont forget to turn the engine a couple of times by hand before you put it back together. Make sure the chain is running freely and that it doesnt lock up.
Best of luck and let me know how you get on
Vishal Arvinda Now we're in a difficult place because there are lots of reasons that you wouldn't get a spark. I'm assuming you've put all the connectors back on? If you had moved the timing disk then it would still spark, just at the wrong time and would backfire so its not that. Did you put the ECU plug back in ? That might explain why there's no fuel and spark.
Vishal Arvinda Hi Vishal, I'm struggling without being able to get my hands on the car. Try this though....Go to your local garage or Halfords and get some Bradex. Give it a squirt down the air intake whilst a colleague tries to start the engine. If it still shows no sign of firing then its definitely an issue with the ignition system. The things I've seen before are the ECU plugs not in, ECU earth strap missed off, timing wheel on the inlet cam moved, wires off. Sorry I cant be of more help and please let me know how you get on.
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Please tell me, did you lubricate head bolts before instal and skimed head surface?
Hi, Sorry for the delay but I've been away. No I never lubricated the head bolts or had the head skimmed. In 30 years of changing head gaskets I can honestly say I've never had a head skimmed and if its been over heated I would use a sealant such as Red Hermotite or similar.
Question, Is the inlet manifold held on by bolts mine seems to rest against the block if i push it back the car will stall :s
KINGCALLO Hi, take a look from 25 seconds and you can see the detail of a couple of the manifold bolts. There are 6 that are quite easy to get to, but they don't pull fully out of the manifold. Don't forget to unbolt the pipe at 33 seconds which is on the rear right hand side of the manifold (Viewed from the front) and prevents it from being pulled backwards even when all 6 bolts are undone. If your manifold is bolted on but when you push it back the engine stalls then you might have a cracked manifold.
Stuart Adair Thanks, When I push back against the carb and look down behind the engine i can see the mani block coming away and the gasket, I'm not trying to take it apart my car was stalling, and I noticed this might be the problem it seems to be missing the bolts on the right side.
KINGCALLO Yes, the missing bolt will be the issue. Its dragging in air past the manifold. Bit strange as the bolts have retainers on them and are difficult to get out at the best of times.
Stuart Adair It's really odd!
hi can any one help to explain what that mean 50nm + 60degree when you want replace camshaft you need 50nm +60
+Andy Andy Hi Andy. You'll need 2 tools for that job. Firstly a torque wrench that has NM (Newton Metres) on the scale and an angular torque gauge. Both are available at Halfords. Set the torque wrench to 50NM and tighten the bolts until the torque wrench clicks to signify that the bolt is to a certain tightness. Then put the angular torque gauge between the socket and torque wrench and rotate the wrench by a further 60 degrees. Its all to do with the fact that the Corsa uses stretch bolts on the cylinder head. Best wishes Stu
this is a z10xe right? would it apply to a x10xe? Thanks
+ptsoldier Hi. If I've got my engines correct I think the Z10XE is a twinport and the X10XE is single port. They both look the same and the head removal process is the same, however the heads are not interchangeable due to a difference wiring setup back into the car and inlet manifold fitting.
hi friend. may be you can help me.
How to correctly position cam positioning plate? I see a marked arrow but I do not know what its correct position is. I have disarmed this part in my 3 cylinder engine and I have serious problems. I expect an answer. Thank you
Hi Jose, If you've moved the timing disk (Shown at 1:59) then you'll need a timing setting tool to get it back in exactly the right place. If you search ebay for "Corsa timing setting tool" then there are plenty listed. Make sure you get the metal semi-circle tool in the set. The cut-out in the tool fits the timing disk on the cam. Best wishes Stu
Ok couple of things to try.
1. Fill the reservoir with water and leave the cap off. Start the engine. If water gushes out under pressure then you've got water still getting into the pistons.
2. Take heater pipe off and fill system from there. This will remove any airlocks
3. If thats ok, fill with water, take top hose off with thermostat out and see if water gushes out under pressure. If not then water pump.
Email me your email address so I can give a longer response - stuart_adair@sky.com
Would this apply to a 2008 corsa 1.0 ? Same engine isn't it ?
Hi, Yes its the same engine. The 1.2 of the same age is also very similar in design.
the haynes manual says you need to remove the sprockets and chain sliding rail? what a load of shit that manual is.... p.s you forgot to mention the head bolt slackening sequence.
Rory McJannett I remember when Haynes made proper manuals. They might be talking about the chain guide (2:18) whatever you do dont remove the left side sprocket (Nearest to bulkhead) as the ignition timing works from that and its a pain to get right again. Your right, I omitted to mention the tightening sequence for the head but its written on the headgasket packaging. Good luck.
stuartadair yeah they say youve to take sprockets off in order to remove cylinder head...sorry mate you did kind of mention the slackening sequence 2:28 lol. however haynes manual says to work from the outside to the inside.. I havent removed the sprocket yet. just the disc position came loose. btw i had the cams locked with the bar. but i aligned the disc position again and tightened it.... thanks for your help !! I have the timing tool kit btw. So when removing the head I can leave the ssprockets on yeah?
If it helps, send me a picture of the front end to stuart_adair@sky.com and I'll see if I can spot any hidden bolts. Stu